NOTE: REGA oil cans come in several styles, round pot, oval pot and tapered cone click type. The designs appear to be close copies of Braimes from the UK. I did actually write to Braimes and ask if REGA had an agreement to copy Braimes, but received no reply. Similar situations occurred with HERCUS and Southbend lathes, and Waldown and Dumore tool post grinders. Cheers Rob
Well Rob I was led to these oil cans by your original video which resolved a long standing problem I had. Finding an oil gun or can that would function correctly when oiling the detent ball oil points on my lathe cross slide, saddle and compound slide. These Rega cans absolutely nail this task. Unfortunately I now am up to 11 brass hardware cans of various sizes. The cans that are in original good condition I have left, the rougher ones I have restored. So really Rob my compulsive acquisition of these is all your fault. But what a good habit to have as these are brilliant oilers. I wasn’t aware of the non-return valve in the base of the spout. Great video thanks 😁
Hi Tracey. I get blamed for lots of things ;) Yes, they are a great oil can for machinists. Nothing much else comes close. I have a couple that could do with a bit of TLC, but all work. Cheap buys for the money. Cheers Rob
Very useful information Rob. Fortunately "Bruce The Non-negotiator Negotiator" Rega is working perfectly 👍😂 However, should it ever need any maintenance, I know where to come. Cheers, Alan.
Hi Wayne. There's at least one in the USA (Oklahoma) I sent over way back. Never sold them there or anywhere else much except Oz, Kiwi-land and parts of the South Pacific. Definitely a good design. Cheers Rob
Difficult to find a decent oil can now days. The last two I bought leak more oil than goes through the spout. Good old ones seem to go for a lot of money. Cheers Nobby
Interesting topic Rob. I'd like to know how they made, rolled and formed the spouts into shape. I used to go past the Braimes factory in Leeds every week many years ago. It has just recently been flattened for redevelopment.
Hi Mick. Unfortunately the spout covers it and has to be de-soldered/removed (easy). The valve assembly sits below it and is soldered onto the can hole. It has to be removed to give it the once over (easy), however the poppet valve may loosen up with a bit of pressure and a clean with a small wire brush. It has a small tensional coil spring which pulls the poppet valve into the seat. Re-soldering the spout is the tricky bit. The factory probably held everything in position with a jig, but I just put the spout in balance and ran small diameter core solder around the join using my tiny HHO gas torch flame. If you had someone to held hold the spout in position it would be much easier. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob ! I too are adicted to old oil cans but I have a problem making a new spout (often brouken or bend). Mine is a danish design with a ball in the TIP and in the main pump. I don't think there is a ball in BOTH the tip AND at the button of the spout at yours - right ? Do you have any good methods to make a complete new spout ? Cheers ! Keld from Denmark
Hi Keld ! Good to hear from you. I trust all is well. There's no ball at the spout tip on REGA, only in the pump base. I have never tried to make a spout. A couple of mine are bent and even straightening them is almost impossible as the sides crush in. It may be possible to turn up a long taper as a central former but I've never tried it. Cheers Rob
I've got an old rega I've tried to fix it several times but no luck. it works but takes 10-15 pushes to get it to prime which is just to frustrating to put up with everytime I need to use it so I'm using the terrible cheapo leaky Chinese ones instead.ive tried cleaning checked the plunger mech it has spring plastic piece then ball bearing.any ideas, I'd really love to get it working properly.thanks for the vid mate
Hi Peter. The valve at the base of the spout is the anti return/leak back valve. If that isn't sealing properly then the oil will take a long time to reach the tip outlet (as you describe). I expect the poppet valve I showed needs attention. Sounds like it's stuck half open with crud. This requires disassembly and re-soldering. Tricky doing a neat job of the spout re-solder. I'd first try blowing compressed air back down the spout from the tip to try and force the valve to seat better (just use some plastic tube with an air gun). That may be all it needs. Cheers Rob
Remove the pump piston, spring, ball bearing, oil cap and oil before using air pressure, as it will blow back on those components and make a mess or damage them if left in situ. Only use low air pressure (eg. 10 - 15 psi) as it's only soldered together. Good luck. Cheers Rob
Hello Peter, I became aware of this when refurbishing my oilcan back in early March this year. The foot valve under my removeable spout was stuck shut allowing no oil through the assembly. The folowing may work as long as there's no sign of internal corrosion. After removing the nylon plunger assembly, fill the base of the unit with a mixture of kerosene and diesel, 50/50 should do it. Cap the plunger tube and outlet with your finger after replacing the main filler cap. Agitate the living daylights out of the unit for 30 seconds or so and and drain, see if there's any debris washed out. Repeat a few times perhaps. I am not certain as to whether the nylon plunger would be affected by the Kero/Diesel mixture. Then after inserting the ball check valve into the main pump tube, refill the container with a fresh batch of diesel/kero, and get a drill bit, I found that 12.25mm was the correct size, and slide the shank into the pump tube. You'll want to cover the delivery outlet tube with some layers of rag now as the next step will be messy otherwise... Using the drill bit as a piston slowly push and pull that into and out of the pump tube, this may force fluid both ways through that foot valve, hopefully getting it to re-seat. If there's any sign of internal rust in the oilcan, there's a chance that you'll have to fully disassemble the spout to rehabilitate that foot valve. But if it's just gummed up, the wash should do the trick.
NOTE: REGA oil cans come in several styles, round pot, oval pot and tapered cone click type. The designs appear to be close copies of Braimes from the UK. I did actually write to Braimes and ask if REGA had an agreement to copy Braimes, but received no reply. Similar situations occurred with HERCUS and Southbend lathes, and Waldown and Dumore tool post grinders. Cheers Rob
Thank you, now I can fix my oil cans.
Glad to help
Well Rob I was led to these oil cans by your original video which resolved a long standing problem I had.
Finding an oil gun or can that would function correctly when oiling the detent ball oil points on my lathe cross slide, saddle and compound slide.
These Rega cans absolutely nail this task. Unfortunately I now am up to 11 brass hardware cans of various sizes. The cans that are in original good condition I have left, the rougher ones I have restored.
So really Rob my compulsive acquisition of these is all your fault. But what a good habit to have as these are brilliant oilers. I wasn’t aware of the non-return valve in the base of the spout. Great video thanks 😁
Hi Tracey. I get blamed for lots of things ;) Yes, they are a great oil can for machinists. Nothing much else comes close. I have a couple that could do with a bit of TLC, but all work. Cheap buys for the money. Cheers Rob
Very handy to know Rob, thanks
Yes, those cans were a bit of a mystery as to what was going on inside.
Got a couple, smaller and bigger. Had them donkeys years. Gave no thought to them till we see you using them. Now have to look after them better.😊
Best oil can ever made for ball oilers.
I have a few of the nice English braimes that these are a copy of. A few in the shed and one to nice to use. Lovely video
Great oil can.
Very useful information Rob. Fortunately "Bruce The Non-negotiator Negotiator" Rega is working perfectly 👍😂 However, should it ever need any maintenance, I know where to come. Cheers, Alan.
The is only one "Bruce " oil can ;)
Excellent thanks Rob!!!! - Cheers Jim
Thanks. We are always learning. Makes life interesting. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu Fixed mine!
Great 👍
Good stuff most good workshops have one or two .. very under Australian not to !!!
Right on Mark :)
Hi Rob . Some Nice Oil Cans There. I Don't Have Any as Of Right Now . But They Seem Well Made . Thanks for Another Interesting Video.
Hi Wayne. There's at least one in the USA (Oklahoma) I sent over way back. Never sold them there or anywhere else much except Oz, Kiwi-land and parts of the South Pacific. Definitely a good design. Cheers Rob
Nice one Rob. I have one that won't pump and haven't been able to fix it. I'll get onto it tomorrow and take a look at the other valve.
Not much else to go wrong with these. Cheers Rob
Nice tip Rob. i have, what I think is a chinese copy, that needs a refresh.
Interesting Derek. I haven't seen any copies, but the Chinese sure copy plenty of good designs. Cheers Rob
Difficult to find a decent oil can now days. The last two I bought leak more oil than goes through the spout. Good old ones seem to go for a lot of money. Cheers Nobby
Hi Nobby. I totally agree. I also like that these cans don't fall over easily. Cheers Rob
Interesting topic Rob. I'd like to know how they made, rolled and formed the spouts into shape. I used to go past the Braimes factory in Leeds every week many years ago. It has just recently been flattened for redevelopment.
Hi Tony. Yes, I wondered about that. I have several that are bent or dented. Legendary oil cans for machinists. Will outlast me. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob, what's the fix for the flapper valve, the one you showed seems to be seized up.
Hi Mick. Unfortunately the spout covers it and has to be de-soldered/removed (easy). The valve assembly sits below it and is soldered onto the can hole. It has to be removed to give it the once over (easy), however the poppet valve may loosen up with a bit of pressure and a clean with a small wire brush. It has a small tensional coil spring which pulls the poppet valve into the seat. Re-soldering the spout is the tricky bit. The factory probably held everything in position with a jig, but I just put the spout in balance and ran small diameter core solder around the join using my tiny HHO gas torch flame. If you had someone to held hold the spout in position it would be much easier. Cheers Rob
Hi Rob , every now and again a design just works out right . Nice to be able to rescue and repair . How many have you now?
Ha Ha, too many Colum. Must be a good dozen. I don't find them, they find me ;) Cheers Rob
Hi Rob !
I too are adicted to old oil cans but I have a problem making a new spout (often brouken or bend).
Mine is a danish design with a ball in the TIP and in the main pump.
I don't think there is a ball in BOTH the tip AND at the button of the spout at yours - right ?
Do you have any good methods to make a complete new spout ?
Cheers !
Keld from Denmark
Hi Keld !
Good to hear from you. I trust all is well. There's no ball at the spout tip on REGA, only in the pump base. I have never tried to make a spout. A couple of mine are bent and even straightening them is almost impossible as the sides crush in. It may be possible to turn up a long taper as a central former but I've never tried it. Cheers Rob
I've got an old rega I've tried to fix it several times but no luck. it works but takes 10-15 pushes to get it to prime which is just to frustrating to put up with everytime I need to use it so I'm using the terrible cheapo leaky Chinese ones instead.ive tried cleaning checked the plunger mech it has spring plastic piece then ball bearing.any ideas, I'd really love to get it working properly.thanks for the vid mate
Hi Peter. The valve at the base of the spout is the anti return/leak back valve. If that isn't sealing properly then the oil will take a long time to reach the tip outlet (as you describe). I expect the poppet valve I showed needs attention. Sounds like it's stuck half open with crud. This requires disassembly and re-soldering. Tricky doing a neat job of the spout re-solder. I'd first try blowing compressed air back down the spout from the tip to try and force the valve to seat better (just use some plastic tube with an air gun). That may be all it needs. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu thanks mate I'll give that a go
Remove the pump piston, spring, ball bearing, oil cap and oil before using air pressure, as it will blow back on those components and make a mess or damage them if left in situ. Only use low air pressure (eg. 10 - 15 psi) as it's only soldered together. Good luck. Cheers Rob
Hello Peter,
I became aware of this when refurbishing my oilcan back in early March this year. The foot valve under my removeable spout was stuck shut allowing no oil through the assembly.
The folowing may work as long as there's no sign of internal corrosion. After removing the nylon plunger assembly, fill the base of the unit with a mixture of kerosene and diesel, 50/50 should do it. Cap the plunger tube and outlet with your finger after replacing the main filler cap. Agitate the living daylights out of the unit for 30 seconds or so and and drain, see if there's any debris washed out. Repeat a few times perhaps. I am not certain as to whether the nylon plunger would be affected by the Kero/Diesel mixture.
Then after inserting the ball check valve into the main pump tube, refill the container with a fresh batch of diesel/kero, and get a drill bit, I found that 12.25mm was the correct size, and slide the shank into the pump tube. You'll want to cover the delivery outlet tube with some layers of rag now as the next step will be messy otherwise...
Using the drill bit as a piston slowly push and pull that into and out of the pump tube, this may force fluid both ways through that foot valve, hopefully getting it to re-seat.
If there's any sign of internal rust in the oilcan, there's a chance that you'll have to fully disassemble the spout to rehabilitate that foot valve. But if it's just gummed up, the wash should do the trick.
Thanks for the input Michael. Good procedure to try. Disassembly is a last resort. Cheers Rob