Pole that light clamps to should have the mounting bracket at 90 degrees to the panel for more support. This also avoids the necessity and added step of a 2x4 cross block and avoids the inherant weakness of all the weight being supported by the two screws holding the 2x4 block. Also, at the base, a metal strap surrounding the post should be secured to the ground screw bracket and the 4x4 post; this provides strength in both axis.
The reason the 2x4 was added is because the mounting bracket is wider than the 4x4 post. As for the base, I see your point although the manufacturer's instructions is to just secure the 5 screws into the post.
@@btshomedition I don't think I'm making myself clear. If you mount the mounting pole bracket vertically instead of hrizontally, it looks like the predrilled holes in the bracket would fall on the 4x4, eliminating the necessity of the 2x4 block and would have a four bolt connection to the 4x4 instead of relying on two screws. Granted that the holes might be close enough to the edge to require predrilling to avoid splitout. The longer legs of the bracket, if positioned vertically, will support more load when the ice and snow pile up and hang on the light.
Pretty cool stuff man. Its me, because im an Ironworker, I would pay attention to those screw-in bases man that is a serious stress point where your post attached. Watch for rust ,sinkage or leaning. If you see any rust it will be worse below. An idea for a nice cover for the base is rough cut looking edger block maybe 3-5 high in a tight circle w/ a little mortar or adhesive to prevent movement. I would LOVE those with a strobe setting!!!😆
@@btshomedition I had the night to think about this. Something did not sound right with Ralph's comment. Okay, first of all, I suggest you contact the company and ask this question then post back to us. Is the metal used for the drill, screws and braces is Galvanized? Ralph is an Ironworker, so he is exposed to corrosion issues. Iron content in metals is a primary reason for corrosion. Galvanized metal, a commonly treated metal for corrosion resistance is galvanized steel, which is essentially steel coated with a layer of zinc to prevent rusting; this process is called galvanization and is highly effective against corrosion in various environments.
@@btshomedition Also, on the wood. As long as you use treated wood, you should be fine for many years. If you use untreated wood, the wood will fail on you very quickly. This is how wood fences are built. Also, people with wood fences, will use concrete in the ground for support of the weight and will not allow the dirt to contact the wood which will accelerate the deterioration of the wood. This is using "a type of metal" (need verification if it is Galvanized), so you will have some anti-corrosion protection and it looks very strong thick metal.
Nice and bright. Thanks for the video that shows it from a distance...Extremely helpful...If you tore it down and showed relevant specs for geeks....I'd subscribe.
Would be cool if it had motion detection. Then could be programmed for say 3 hours starting at dusk then go into motion detection to finish out the charge. Solar charging could recharge for the next cycle. For winter with the sun limited and lower in the sky, just program for motion detection. I've done this with repurposed wallpack commercial led lighting, dc boost converters, cordless lithium batteries and pir motion detection sensors. Works great for perimeter security.
It does all of that most of these have multiple modes you have manual where you can just turn on and off and send it for brightness you want and then you usually have dual motion mode you can have off and then it turns on when it detects motion or you can have on dim and then wanted to text motion it gets brighter usually most of these have all of those modes and you can also set it to turn off after a certain number of hours
You're going to want to put a third screw in that 2x4 otherwise it'll eventually wiggle itself as the wind blows it back and forth you need three points to create stability
That 2x4x6 that you put on the 4x4 post was not needed. You just weaken the attachment to the post by doing that. All you had to do was turn that 20” mounting arm/base that goes into the light to where it would have lined up vertically on the 4x4 post.
@ Ask yourself this… would it be stronger connected directly to the 4x4 post or connected to that 2x4x6 which is then connected to the 4x4 post? Keep in mind that the length you cut for that 2x4 was 6” in length so out of those 6 inches, only 3.5” are in contact with the 4x4 post; leaving 2.5” of that 2x4 attached to absolutely nothing. Not to mention that you only put in 2 screws to hold the 2x4x6 to the 4x4 post. Think of end range motion. You built it outwards from the main structure when you added that 2x4x6 so the further you build out the weaker it would be. If you added another 2x4x6 on top of the 2x4x6 and then added another 2x4x6 on top (three 2x4x6 stacked on top of each other) and then put the light post attached to the 2x4x6 would it be as strong as if it were connected directly to the post?
Any light source would attract bugs but I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary. These aren't the only lights on the property so my situation might be different if this was the only one. So maybe the bugs are just spread out. Lol
That’s a great idea! Nice install and video!
Thanks!
Pole that light clamps to should have the mounting bracket at 90 degrees to the panel for more support.
This also avoids the necessity and added step of a 2x4 cross block and avoids the inherant weakness of all the weight being supported by the two screws holding the 2x4 block.
Also, at the base, a metal strap surrounding the post should be secured to the ground screw bracket and the 4x4 post; this provides strength in both axis.
The reason the 2x4 was added is because the mounting bracket is wider than the 4x4 post. As for the base, I see your point although the manufacturer's instructions is to just secure the 5 screws into the post.
@@btshomedition I don't think I'm making myself clear. If you mount the mounting pole bracket vertically instead of hrizontally, it looks like the predrilled holes in the bracket would fall on the 4x4, eliminating the necessity of the 2x4 block and would have a four bolt connection to the 4x4 instead of relying on two screws. Granted that the holes might be close enough to the edge to require predrilling to avoid splitout. The longer legs of the bracket, if positioned vertically, will support more load when the ice and snow pile up and hang on the light.
Pretty cool stuff man.
Its me, because im an Ironworker, I would pay attention to those screw-in bases man that is a serious stress point where your post attached. Watch for rust ,sinkage or leaning.
If you see any rust it will be worse below. An idea for a nice cover for the base is rough cut looking edger block maybe 3-5 high in a tight circle w/ a little mortar or adhesive to prevent movement. I would LOVE those with a strobe setting!!!😆
Thanks. I will be taking it down to swap out the wood and beef up the screws but good callout!
@btshomedition Right on bud,they look really cool make sure to update bud,have a good night.🙂✌️
Will do!
@@btshomedition I had the night to think about this. Something did not sound right with Ralph's comment. Okay, first of all, I suggest you contact the company and ask this question then post back to us. Is the metal used for the drill, screws and braces is Galvanized? Ralph is an Ironworker, so he is exposed to corrosion issues. Iron content in metals is a primary reason for corrosion. Galvanized metal, a commonly treated metal for corrosion resistance is galvanized steel, which is essentially steel coated with a layer of zinc to prevent rusting; this process is called galvanization and is highly effective against corrosion in various environments.
@@btshomedition Also, on the wood. As long as you use treated wood, you should be fine for many years. If you use untreated wood, the wood will fail on you very quickly. This is how wood fences are built. Also, people with wood fences, will use concrete in the ground for support of the weight and will not allow the dirt to contact the wood which will accelerate the deterioration of the wood. This is using "a type of metal" (need verification if it is Galvanized), so you will have some anti-corrosion protection and it looks very strong thick metal.
Nice and bright. Thanks for the video that shows it from a distance...Extremely helpful...If you tore it down and showed relevant specs for geeks....I'd subscribe.
You're welcome. I'll consider a teardown in the future. Lol
Nice, personally I would add a wood preservive as an added benefit to add years to your pole.
That's a great idea!
Would be cool if it had motion detection. Then could be programmed for say 3 hours starting at dusk then go into motion detection to finish out the charge. Solar charging could recharge for the next cycle. For winter with the sun limited and lower in the sky, just program for motion detection. I've done this with repurposed wallpack commercial led lighting, dc boost converters, cordless lithium batteries and pir motion detection sensors. Works great for perimeter security.
It does all of that most of these have multiple modes you have manual where you can just turn on and off and send it for brightness you want and then you usually have dual motion mode you can have off and then it turns on when it detects motion or you can have on dim and then wanted to text motion it gets brighter usually most of these have all of those modes and you can also set it to turn off after a certain number of hours
So it does have motion detection. The light is dimmer with no motion but once motion is detected, it brightens to what ever setting was programmed.
You're going to want to put a third screw in that 2x4 otherwise it'll eventually wiggle itself as the wind blows it back and forth you need three points to create stability
Will do! Thanks for the tip.
That 2x4x6 that you put on the 4x4 post was not needed. You just weaken the attachment to the post by doing that. All you had to do was turn that 20” mounting arm/base that goes into the light to where it would have lined up vertically on the 4x4 post.
If the arm was turned, it would affect the angle of the pole. If the 2x4 is attached to the 4x4 how does it weaken the attachment?
@ Ask yourself this… would it be stronger connected directly to the 4x4 post or connected to that 2x4x6 which is then connected to the 4x4 post? Keep in mind that the length you cut for that 2x4 was 6” in length so out of those 6 inches, only 3.5” are in contact with the 4x4 post; leaving 2.5” of that 2x4 attached to absolutely nothing. Not to mention that you only put in 2 screws to hold the 2x4x6 to the 4x4 post. Think of end range motion. You built it outwards from the main structure when you added that 2x4x6 so the further you build out the weaker it would be. If you added another 2x4x6 on top of the 2x4x6 and then added another 2x4x6 on top (three 2x4x6 stacked on top of each other) and then put the light post attached to the 2x4x6 would it be as strong as if it were connected directly to the post?
Ok I see your point. Makes sense. I'll take it down to see if I can make some adjustments and get rid on the 2x4.
Cool
Thanks!
a strong gust of wind??
No issues with wind and the post so far. Everything is very sturdy.
Does it attract a lot of bugs?
Any light source would attract bugs but I have not noticed anything out of the ordinary. These aren't the only lights on the property so my situation might be different if this was the only one. So maybe the bugs are just spread out. Lol
Solar LED Street Lights.....ugh. Yard Lights
Dual purpose. 😄