Hi, I only just discovered your channel. The alternator on my '91 Alpina B10 3.5 needs replacement/refurbishment and therefore I had to remove it. The lower bolt was a nightmare to remove in my case, no room to work whatsoever since I have a couple of additional hoses that run across the alternator but after a good thirty minutes it surrendered. Did lose a couple of nuts in the engine bay though but they'll come out. Anyway, thanks for the informative videos you have put online. Looking forward to see your E32 return to its original glory!
Great project and especially for cars being used in winter. The lights fading on tickover is a give away its not as efficient as it could be so its a good idea to change this. Interesting to see the debris inside- you could add a purpose made gauze to prevent debris in future as another measure and add it to the plastic ducting. It wont stop dust ingress but it will catch bugs. You could change the coolant cap as well as preventative as thats the only thing regulating pressure in the system. The neoprene bonnet pads are brilliant. Ive lost mine like most cars and you cant find them so that is indeed a good idea. They obviously detached after a few years on most cars. So look forward to that. Good luck on the front suspension. Lee
Thanks Lee for your comment. I had the same idea about filtering the larger particles and bugs. I have some leftover grille mesh from a patio door, I'll try to cut a section and sandwich it between the two ducts. The foam pads on the hood insulation are what keep the bad air from the engine bay out of the fresh air intake for the HVAC. Without the pads the fresh air entering the cowling area gets contaminated with heat, oil smell or even smoke if a car is particularly neglected. I had an oily smell on the inside when the blend door would provide fresh air. The foam pads should fix that. I couldn't try them because the driving season is over but it should work, according to posts on forums.
Im just looking at whether Bosch UK could supply the unit. Its only on their US site. Im hoping the 735 and 730 versions will be identical as they are all 12v. They are NLA from BMW. Re hunting idle have you seen BimmerZeit and his green 735 e32. He also has done some clips on the e28 and the things hes looked at to solve its hunting and over revving idle. Its obviously earlier tech but alot of the components will be similar. Best wishes L
I'm in the middle of the same job today with my 89 535i. After a couple of hours finally got all the bolts out but it got too dark before I could get the alternator loose. Came inside and found your video, perfect for me! The engine bay is quite similar. My alternator seems to be fit pretty tight into that holding bracket. Did you have that happen to you? In the morning I will try to pry it loose. And them put my remanufactured Bosch unit in! Thanks for taking the time to do this video, it's appreciated. - Robert
Glad you found the video useful Robert. Yes my alternator was very tight into the bracket, especially the first time I took it out when I changed the voltage regulator. I had to get creative and use a large pry bar to get it unseated from the bracket. I'm talking about the lower bracket, not the adjuster (which was pretty easy). When reinstalling it I also had trouble aligning the bolt in both holes. There's no room and visibility isn't great. My back was hurting from leaning over for so long. :) I hope the job will go well for you!
@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec Okay, that helps. I want to be sure that when I start "prying" on engine components I am doing it for the right reasons! Thanks again!
Chez qui avez-vous acheté votre alternateur ? Lorsque j'achète aux USA ( RockAuto,Pelican,etc...) les frais de livraison sont fréquemment trop élevés pour justifier le renvoi et obtenir un remboursement du ''Core ''
Je l'ai acheté de Rockauto. Je n'ai pas encore retourné l'alternateur original, j'ai six mois pour le faire. Le core est de 90$. Il se pourrait bien que le transport soit trop dispendieux pour le retourner, l'item étant vraiment lourd. Si c'est le cas je le garderai comme pièce de "spare". Malheureusement c'est le prix à payer pour commander des pièces au Québec. Je ne sais pas pourquoi nous n'avons pas un fournisseur de pièces à l'échelle du Canada avec des prix des transport raisonnables... C'est dommage.
Hi; can you help me with my problem? There's a possibility that the cabin of my 1987 e32 735i smells like bad air, like carbon monoxide. It may be exhaust gas, after a while while using it, it seems like my nose and throat are starting to burn. I doubt that somehow the exhaust gas could get into the cabin. I guess the trunk valves may have rotted and broken, maybe it is pulling the exhaust gas from there to the cabin. can i get your opinion on this? Thank you
Hi Jim, that sounds like a concerning issue. If your exhaust manifold is leaking exhaust gases inside the engine bay, it is possible for this exhaust gas to enter the interior of the car through the blower motor. The air that enters the interior is pulled from outside via the fresh air grille on the cowling (near the wipers). But it can also pull air from the engine bay if the two large pads on the hood insulation are missing. Most cars are missing these pads, they are in the upper left and right corners directly under the hood. The pads seal the engine bay from the fresh air intake. It is best to determine first if you have an exhaust leak. A good shop can check for you. You can also look around the exhaust manifold, remove the air filter box and look around the two manifolds to see if you smell fumes.
Hello how are you? I recently had my alternator repaired, but I recently discovered that when the car is regulating, it does not charge, but instead needs to reach 2000 rpm once to start charging, does your alternator charge with the car regulating? or does it need at least once to reach 2000rpm
Hi, when I check with a multimeter before changing my alternator, the alternator was charging when the car was at idle (750 RPM). I believe by design it should charge even when idle. Has the voltage regulator been replaced?
Hi, I only just discovered your channel. The alternator on my '91 Alpina B10 3.5 needs replacement/refurbishment and therefore I had to remove it. The lower bolt was a nightmare to remove in my case, no room to work whatsoever since I have a couple of additional hoses that run across the alternator but after a good thirty minutes it surrendered. Did lose a couple of nuts in the engine bay though but they'll come out. Anyway, thanks for the informative videos you have put online. Looking forward to see your E32 return to its original glory!
really enjoyed this video, very helpful and great illustration of parts to be tackled, cheers
Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching :)
Great project and especially for cars being used in winter. The lights fading on tickover is a give away its not as efficient as it could be so its a good idea to change this. Interesting to see the debris inside- you could add a purpose made gauze to prevent debris in future as another measure and add it to the plastic ducting. It wont stop dust ingress but it will catch bugs. You could change the coolant cap as well as preventative as thats the only thing regulating pressure in the system.
The neoprene bonnet pads are brilliant. Ive lost mine like most cars and you cant find them so that is indeed a good idea. They obviously detached after a few years on most cars. So look forward to that.
Good luck on the front suspension.
Lee
Thanks Lee for your comment. I had the same idea about filtering the larger particles and bugs. I have some leftover grille mesh from a patio door, I'll try to cut a section and sandwich it between the two ducts.
The foam pads on the hood insulation are what keep the bad air from the engine bay out of the fresh air intake for the HVAC. Without the pads the fresh air entering the cowling area gets contaminated with heat, oil smell or even smoke if a car is particularly neglected. I had an oily smell on the inside when the blend door would provide fresh air. The foam pads should fix that. I couldn't try them because the driving season is over but it should work, according to posts on forums.
Im just looking at whether Bosch UK could supply the unit. Its only on their US site. Im hoping the 735 and 730 versions will be identical as they are all 12v. They are NLA from BMW.
Re hunting idle have you seen BimmerZeit and his green 735 e32. He also has done some clips on the e28 and the things hes looked at to solve its hunting and over revving idle. Its obviously earlier tech but alot of the components will be similar. Best wishes L
Thank you so much for sharing
I'm in the middle of the same job today with my 89 535i. After a couple of hours finally got all the bolts out but it got too dark before I could get the alternator loose. Came inside and found your video, perfect for me! The engine bay is quite similar. My alternator seems to be fit pretty tight into that holding bracket. Did you have that happen to you? In the morning I will try to pry it loose. And them put my remanufactured Bosch unit in! Thanks for taking the time to do this video, it's appreciated. - Robert
Glad you found the video useful Robert. Yes my alternator was very tight into the bracket, especially the first time I took it out when I changed the voltage regulator. I had to get creative and use a large pry bar to get it unseated from the bracket. I'm talking about the lower bracket, not the adjuster (which was pretty easy). When reinstalling it I also had trouble aligning the bolt in both holes. There's no room and visibility isn't great. My back was hurting from leaning over for so long. :)
I hope the job will go well for you!
@@ClassicBMWFanInQuebec Okay, that helps. I want to be sure that when I start "prying" on engine components I am doing it for the right reasons! Thanks again!
How do you adjust the belt?
Chez qui avez-vous acheté votre alternateur ? Lorsque j'achète aux USA ( RockAuto,Pelican,etc...) les frais de livraison sont fréquemment trop élevés pour justifier le renvoi et obtenir un remboursement du ''Core ''
Je l'ai acheté de Rockauto. Je n'ai pas encore retourné l'alternateur original, j'ai six mois pour le faire. Le core est de 90$. Il se pourrait bien que le transport soit trop dispendieux pour le retourner, l'item étant vraiment lourd. Si c'est le cas je le garderai comme pièce de "spare". Malheureusement c'est le prix à payer pour commander des pièces au Québec. Je ne sais pas pourquoi nous n'avons pas un fournisseur de pièces à l'échelle du Canada avec des prix des transport raisonnables... C'est dommage.
Hi; can you help me with my problem? There's a possibility that the cabin of my 1987 e32 735i smells like bad air, like carbon monoxide. It may be exhaust gas, after a while while using it, it seems like my nose and throat are starting to burn. I doubt that somehow the exhaust gas could get into the cabin. I guess the trunk valves may have rotted and broken, maybe it is pulling the exhaust gas from there to the cabin. can i get your opinion on this? Thank you
Hi Jim, that sounds like a concerning issue. If your exhaust manifold is leaking exhaust gases inside the engine bay, it is possible for this exhaust gas to enter the interior of the car through the blower motor. The air that enters the interior is pulled from outside via the fresh air grille on the cowling (near the wipers). But it can also pull air from the engine bay if the two large pads on the hood insulation are missing. Most cars are missing these pads, they are in the upper left and right corners directly under the hood. The pads seal the engine bay from the fresh air intake.
It is best to determine first if you have an exhaust leak. A good shop can check for you. You can also look around the exhaust manifold, remove the air filter box and look around the two manifolds to see if you smell fumes.
It isn't carbon monoxide, it is odorless.
Hello how are you? I recently had my alternator repaired, but I recently discovered that when the car is regulating, it does not charge, but instead needs to reach 2000 rpm once to start charging, does your alternator charge with the car regulating? or does it need at least once to reach 2000rpm
Hi, when I check with a multimeter before changing my alternator, the alternator was charging when the car was at idle (750 RPM). I believe by design it should charge even when idle. Has the voltage regulator been replaced?