I order all kinds of electronic components. I am still fairly new to electronics. It first started for me when I went to the local makerspace two years ago. Julian you are one of many people that inspire me.
For the curious, Julian soldering to an SSOP-16: board th-cam.com/video/WpG_OKs09Yc/w-d-xo.html Edit-and this one: th-cam.com/video/SklBE_ZesqY/w-d-xo.html And another: th-cam.com/video/wbP4GClIHkc/w-d-xo.html
I have some ltc3105 chips that I plan to mount to the same boards. My plan is to first glue the chip in place and then use conductive glue to connect it.
Maybe you're looking at speeing up the isolators the wrong way - how about conditioning the signal after them? Use a Schmitt buffer or comparator afterwards.
I recently hand soldered some chips that completely covered the pads on the adapters and it wasn't any problem. You just need to use flux instead of relying on the stuff that's already in the core of your solder. Any bridges are easy to just wipe away with the iron or touch it with solder wick.
You can get fast switching optocouplers for logic signal isolation. I've not tested any yet, but I'm currently looking at the 6n137 for isolating UART signals. It's capable of 10 Mbaud data rate (which is at least 10mhz) so it should be more than fast enough for PWM.
Take a look at ADuM1201 digital isolators for isolating UART signals. They're slightly more complicated than optoisolators in that they require a VCC/GND connection and a decoupling cap on each side of the isolation barrier, but otherwise they're much simpler to use. They're designed specifically for digital logic signals, are fast, have stronger isolation barriers, and clean edges. The ADuM1201 has one channel in each direction (ideal for RX and TX lines), while the ADuM1200 has two channels in the same direction. They also have other models of similar chips that do I2C, USB, etc. isolation. Very handy.
himselfe You bet. I was running into issues that made optos a bit impractical (high speed serial with a high impedance output that would have needed an external buffer chip on each side of the barrier to provide the necessary current for the two optos) and the digital isolator fit the bill exactly. Made life a lot easier.
In the MIDI world people are always looking for fast optocouplers. I used a PC900V in my 5pin DIN MIDI to 0.1inch header box to connect old MIDI devices to an Adruino's TX/RX pins. Other ones to look for would be the 6N137, 6N138 and supposedly the PC900V is the same as the H11L1 I think these are all 6 pin optos but other than that I'm not sure how exactly they're different than the basic ones you've already used. All I know is that when I did some experiments with the PC900V I got much faster rise times. You can salvage them from old toy keyboards that have 5pin MIDI ports.
Julian, I haven't watched this video yet, but when I saw the title snapshot, I thought you may be doing a test on how well the so-called anti-static containers prevent static buildup....How about an experiment using an ultra-high input impedance op-amp or a JFET in a circuit to measure charge on static-sensitive devices that are so-called protected in their containers? Such as charge transfer (uC's) on/off surfaces of sensitive IC's just dumped out (well, SLID out) of one of those long plastic "IC tubes", perhaps into "half of a Lyden jar"? ...now on to the video... --dalE
SOP-16 vs SSOP-16: SOP-16 has the gull-wings with a length of 1.4mm overall with a .8mm foot. SSOP-16 has the gull-wings with a length of 1mm overall with a .5mm foot. The boards you ordered are SSOP-16's, whereas the IC's are SOP-16. So the IC's have a larger foot. www.lapis-semi.com/en/package/sizesop.html I came across this issue when designing my own PCB's for my project. As I'm a newb to PCB design, I overlooked those tiny measurements when building mine. Fortunately I didn't order them before having them checked over first 😜 I'm having to design a PCB (using EasyEDA: Project files: goo.gl/tVdTr4) for a TI chip for a custom BMS because there are no SSOP-30 adapter boards like the ones you bought on eBay. It's strange that they don't exist. Since I'm building the SSOP-30's, I decided to build the SSOP-20's as well and put the proper labeling on them.
Are you referring to Julian being the black hole? Had I not asked for advice from EasyEDA forum, I would of made a very similar mistake. I've never dealt with such small pieces before. I didn't realize the TI IC's I bought were smaller than a finger nail. But, that was my fault for not looking at the dimensions and assuming they were as big as they looked in the photo. Also, you don't really realize how .3mm can make a difference on chips and pads till you lay them down.
the 74HC153A can be used with a 74AC74 as a Johnson Counter to build a Tayloe down converter mixer useful with a DSP chip and DAC to recover the audio from radio waves.
You can, but the ham radio community got distracted with Tayloe converters, when they are actually just synchronous active mixers and there are better ways of doing it. You are essentially using the output stage of a digital IC as an analogue component, which inherently has limitations and quite a lot of noise.
I wouldn't disagree. I was just explaining that active mixers were around a long time before Tayloe got in there, and there are better ways of doing it than using digital chips to do an analogue chip's (or 4 transistor's) job.
At the risk of stating the obvious, surely using the tri-state outputs would allow you to stack the outputs as well? Also if you don't use tri-state then how are you going to bus the outputs anyway, or isn't this part of the plan?
+T Komoski The vocoder keeps stalling because I can't decide on a suitable layout and construction technique. Now thinking about lots of 170 tiepoint breadboard on decking timber :)
I hate getting electronics wrapped in bubble wrap. Especially if they only come in ziplock bags, rather than proper ESD protective packaging. I got som 74HC181 4 bit ALUs in the mail the other day from Ali Express that were wrapped in bubble wrap and despite it being a very humid day, I could hear and feel the static as I unwrapped them. I haven't used any yet to test for damage, but I intend to scold the seller.
Haha, I too have made vertical tower of integrated circuits. I enjoy freeform soldering, and have made some stacks of shift registers, If you search Dead Bug Prototyping and Freeform Electronics, you should find my instructable that includes my vertical shift stacks
I order all kinds of electronic components. I am still fairly new to electronics. It first started for me when I went to the local makerspace two years ago. Julian you are one of many people that inspire me.
Pringles already did stackable chips xD
Those SOP boards work fine, they look like they don't have much space for solder, but you can hand solder them easily
Gently warm the PCB to remove that sticker easily, in the same way as you used to remove labels from cassette tapes! Thanks Julian.
For the curious, Julian soldering to an SSOP-16: board
th-cam.com/video/WpG_OKs09Yc/w-d-xo.html
Edit-and this one:
th-cam.com/video/SklBE_ZesqY/w-d-xo.html
And another:
th-cam.com/video/wbP4GClIHkc/w-d-xo.html
i love your postbags!
Julian- What are those cool little white clips that you use to hook 2 wires together? And where can I get some?
I have some ltc3105 chips that I plan to mount to the same boards. My plan is to first glue the chip in place and then use conductive glue to connect it.
Maybe you're looking at speeing up the isolators the wrong way - how about conditioning the signal after them? Use a Schmitt buffer or comparator afterwards.
SPEEING XD
Indeed; the higher speed conventional optoisolators have a Schmitt Tigger output. You could add one to the 817 if you like.
There are two speeds, that of the edge coming out and that of the time to get through (more like a rate than a speed), which limits the frequency.
Fold the pins underneath?
+flagpoleeip SOJ style
I recently hand soldered some chips that completely covered the pads on the adapters and it wasn't any problem. You just need to use flux instead of relying on the stuff that's already in the core of your solder. Any bridges are easy to just wipe away with the iron or touch it with solder wick.
You can get fast switching optocouplers for logic signal isolation. I've not tested any yet, but I'm currently looking at the 6n137 for isolating UART signals. It's capable of 10 Mbaud data rate (which is at least 10mhz) so it should be more than fast enough for PWM.
Take a look at ADuM1201 digital isolators for isolating UART signals. They're slightly more complicated than optoisolators in that they require a VCC/GND connection and a decoupling cap on each side of the isolation barrier, but otherwise they're much simpler to use. They're designed specifically for digital logic signals, are fast, have stronger isolation barriers, and clean edges. The ADuM1201 has one channel in each direction (ideal for RX and TX lines), while the ADuM1200 has two channels in the same direction. They also have other models of similar chips that do I2C, USB, etc. isolation. Very handy.
Thank you for the tip Pete, will definitely check those out!
himselfe You bet. I was running into issues that made optos a bit impractical (high speed serial with a high impedance output that would have needed an external buffer chip on each side of the barrier to provide the necessary current for the two optos) and the digital isolator fit the bill exactly. Made life a lot easier.
In the MIDI world people are always looking for fast optocouplers.
I used a PC900V in my 5pin DIN MIDI to 0.1inch header box to connect old MIDI devices to an Adruino's TX/RX pins.
Other ones to look for would be the 6N137, 6N138 and supposedly the PC900V is the same as the H11L1
I think these are all 6 pin optos but other than that I'm not sure how exactly they're different than the basic ones you've already used. All I know is that when I did some experiments with the PC900V I got much faster rise times.
You can salvage them from old toy keyboards that have 5pin MIDI ports.
looks like your wide chips would fit on the 1.27mm side of the 20 pin adapter boards, you'd just have 4 unused pins on each.
Can I ask, why is this video Postbag 112, but there are only 64 in the Postbag Playlist?
Julian, I do (as an other commenter in this thread) recommend you to look at the 10 MHz opto coupler, 6N137.
Julian, I haven't watched this video yet, but when I saw the title snapshot, I thought you may be doing a test on how well the so-called anti-static containers prevent static buildup....How about an experiment using an ultra-high input impedance op-amp or a JFET in a circuit to measure charge on static-sensitive devices that are so-called protected in their containers? Such as charge transfer (uC's) on/off surfaces of sensitive IC's just dumped out (well, SLID out) of one of those long plastic "IC tubes", perhaps into "half of a Lyden jar"? ...now on to the video...
--dalE
Both optos state their rise and fall times are around 5 microseconds so they should switch faster than 15 khz. More like 100 khz.
SOP-16 vs SSOP-16: SOP-16 has the gull-wings with a length of 1.4mm overall with a .8mm foot. SSOP-16 has the gull-wings with a length of 1mm overall with a .5mm foot.
The boards you ordered are SSOP-16's, whereas the IC's are SOP-16. So the IC's have a larger foot.
www.lapis-semi.com/en/package/sizesop.html
I came across this issue when designing my own PCB's for my project. As I'm a newb to PCB design, I overlooked those tiny measurements when building mine. Fortunately I didn't order them before having them checked over first 😜
I'm having to design a PCB (using EasyEDA: Project files: goo.gl/tVdTr4) for a TI chip for a custom BMS because there are no SSOP-30 adapter boards like the ones you bought on eBay. It's strange that they don't exist. Since I'm building the SSOP-30's, I decided to build the SSOP-20's as well and put the proper labeling on them.
Are you referring to Julian being the black hole? Had I not asked for advice from EasyEDA forum, I would of made a very similar mistake. I've never dealt with such small pieces before. I didn't realize the TI IC's I bought were smaller than a finger nail. But, that was my fault for not looking at the dimensions and assuming they were as big as they looked in the photo.
Also, you don't really realize how .3mm can make a difference on chips and pads till you lay them down.
That last package should have had a phallic shaped vegetable in it to really make the rest of the world puzzled at the Cyril & Esther reference.
"Sossidges..." *woof*
the 74HC153A can be used with a 74AC74 as a Johnson Counter to build a Tayloe down converter mixer useful with a DSP chip and DAC to recover the audio from radio waves.
You can, but the ham radio community got distracted with Tayloe converters, when they are actually just synchronous active mixers and there are better ways of doing it. You are essentially using the output stage of a digital IC as an analogue component, which inherently has limitations and quite a lot of noise.
Zadster I have a PANASONIC FM /DAB radio that uses a Dan Tayloe mixer chip and sounds better than any normal radio
I wouldn't disagree. I was just explaining that active mixers were around a long time before Tayloe got in there, and there are better ways of doing it than using digital chips to do an analogue chip's (or 4 transistor's) job.
Soldered joint, is a 'concave fillet' :-}>
Now the Vocoder is near test, will you revisit this one please?
Yes, I'm planning a 'hello world' video for the 8-bit computer (before it can compute).
@@JulianIlett Marvelous!
Would DIPs be suitable?
soooo...whats the difference between a photocoupler and an optoisolator
At the risk of stating the obvious, surely using the tri-state outputs would allow you to stack the outputs as well? Also if you don't use tri-state then how are you going to bus the outputs anyway, or isn't this part of the plan?
Is any of that for the (/ˈvoʊkoʊdər/, a portmanteau of voice encoder) ?
+T Komoski The vocoder keeps stalling because I can't decide on a suitable layout and construction technique. Now thinking about lots of 170 tiepoint breadboard on decking timber :)
Sorry to bother just wondering.
+T Komoski No bother, I really want to finish it too :)
Why don't you look into the data sheets of the opto-couplers before buying them?
Heat the PCB/Sticker with a hair dryer and the label should peel away quite easily.
May be this comment goes too late: I use this fast optocoupler: HCPL 0601-500E. There are various models...
Not cheap but very, very fast.....
The use of the word 'queer ' was awesome
Those chips are SOIC, not SOP. They make adapters with wider pads that will do both.
+Robert Gibbons yeah, the V2 board, but no-one has it :(
Yeah, just one seller from Poland and he is trying to pay off their national debt selling them!
Another great postbag video :)
Julian, could you do more soldering kits?
You need some Yugi LED's!
Why didn't you use shorter headers? This thing will look like a skyscraper! :-D
Change the recording software or mode to show the dropboxes
Isn't mil the same as thou?
+Mihai Vasiliu I believe it is :)
Thou art right.
Warm those stickers with a hair dryer, they will peal wight off
Chips don't fit? Well, That's Life.
He he :)
I hate getting electronics wrapped in bubble wrap. Especially if they only come in ziplock bags, rather than proper ESD protective packaging. I got som 74HC181 4 bit ALUs in the mail the other day from Ali Express that were wrapped in bubble wrap and despite it being a very humid day, I could hear and feel the static as I unwrapped them. I haven't used any yet to test for damage, but I intend to scold the seller.
Half a grand a month, to buy random crap from Ebay and open it on air? Christ, I'm in the wrong business.
Haha, I too have made vertical tower of integrated circuits. I enjoy freeform soldering, and have made some stacks of shift registers, If you search Dead Bug Prototyping and Freeform Electronics, you should find my instructable that includes my vertical shift stacks