When the SD1 came out the jacking points were at the front and rear bumper mounting points. There were no longer studs under the sills. As the Triumph 2500/Stag and Rover SD had very similar construction I would use the bumper mounts.
I never lift it by the body, unless I have to work on the bits where I usually lift it. The body lifting points I only ever use if I am caught out on the road and have to use the scissor jack. But that's just day to day running, but when I did long trips (Perth to Melbourne return every Xmas for 7 years in the 90's, 3500 kms one way) I used to carry my small trolley jack in the boot, and a half axle under the boot. Helped when I had a wheel bearing fail 1,000 kms from Perth. 20 minutes to change the half shaft. Only ever use the scissor jack if you HAVE to, ie stuck out somewhere, never ever when doing garage work. The body points have a groove for a slot in the scissor jack, and a pin locator, which is ok for the "designed for it" jack, but terrible for a trolley jack. I use the front fore and aft bearers under the body near where the front suspension fore and aft radius arm mount to body is. That is huge, solid, and is designed to carry a lot of load. At the rear I pick mine up on the cross members that form the "vee" with the diff in the centre, just inside the outer mounts. Again, strong box sections that are designed to take the weight of the car, very strong. If I have to remove any part of that rear suspension section/diff/parts of the "vee", then I have slotted blocks that I can put on the body lifting points and put a trolley jack on that. I have done that for the 30 years I have had my car.
Yep good question, to. Replace wheels I always place jack under the outrigger quick look underneath at front , rear bit more tricky but I place wooden block and jack up on the trailarm. Near the shock or sprinng as that's where the weight of the car is , be interesting of the other methods , thanks for sharing,
If the 4 jacking lugs are missing I’d be concerned about missing C brackets inside the sills. The lugs screw into the supporting C brackets which are strengthening items. Mine are all still there. Are the threaded holes obvious under your sills?
When changing a tyre....best to use a 1.5 ton trolley jack .. there are compact trollies around small and slimline enough to go in the boot and continually carry it around with you .....front wheels..1...old block of wood..softer the better...approx 1/2 inch thick x 3inch wide x 3 to 4 inches long... 2....put the jack under the car under the thick reinforced longnitudinal ...running from front to back of the car ....it is easily seen ....double thickness of metal....not the outrigger that comes out towards the sill... too weak and too thin ... 3....put the block of wood between jack “disc” and longitudinal... 4 .... raise jack so Wood is “trapped “ between jack and car.. 5... loosen wheel nuts.. 6 ...raise car ..7.. remove , replace wheel.. 8 .... lower car and torque up the wheel nuts ... As for rear wheels use the same procedure but best use the heavy and thick aluminium trailing arm... don’t use the manuals jacking points “they ain’t “ strong enough... hope this helps.. most of all be safe and TAKE YOUR TIME
When the SD1 came out the jacking points were at the front and rear bumper mounting points. There were no longer studs under the sills. As the Triumph 2500/Stag and Rover SD had very similar construction I would use the bumper mounts.
I always use the cross member to jack and support at the and different at the back .
In the workshop I invested in a floor level cheapish 4 arm lift .
I never lift it by the body, unless I have to work on the bits where I usually lift it.
The body lifting points I only ever use if I am caught out on the road and have to use the scissor jack. But that's just day to day running, but when I did long trips (Perth to Melbourne return every Xmas for 7 years in the 90's, 3500 kms one way) I used to carry my small trolley jack in the boot, and a half axle under the boot. Helped when I had a wheel bearing fail 1,000 kms from Perth. 20 minutes to change the half shaft. Only ever use the scissor jack if you HAVE to, ie stuck out somewhere, never ever when doing garage work.
The body points have a groove for a slot in the scissor jack, and a pin locator, which is ok for the "designed for it" jack, but terrible for a trolley jack.
I use the front fore and aft bearers under the body near where the front suspension fore and aft radius arm mount to body is. That is huge, solid, and is designed to carry a lot of load.
At the rear I pick mine up on the cross members that form the "vee" with the diff in the centre, just inside the outer mounts. Again, strong box sections that are designed to take the weight of the car, very strong.
If I have to remove any part of that rear suspension section/diff/parts of the "vee", then I have slotted blocks that I can put on the body lifting points and put a trolley jack on that.
I have done that for the 30 years I have had my car.
Yep good question, to. Replace wheels I always place jack under the outrigger quick look underneath at front , rear bit more tricky but I place wooden block and jack up on the trailarm. Near the shock or sprinng as that's where the weight of the car is , be interesting of the other methods , thanks for sharing,
Thanks Steve - much appreciated! All the best TR T
If the 4 jacking lugs are missing I’d be concerned about missing C brackets inside the sills. The lugs screw into the supporting C brackets which are strengthening items. Mine are all still there. Are the threaded holes obvious under your sills?
When changing a tyre....best to use a 1.5 ton trolley jack .. there are compact trollies around small and slimline enough to go in the boot and continually carry it around with you .....front wheels..1...old block of wood..softer the better...approx 1/2 inch thick x 3inch wide x 3 to 4 inches long... 2....put the jack under the car under the thick reinforced longnitudinal ...running from front to back of the car ....it is easily seen ....double thickness of metal....not the outrigger that comes out towards the sill... too weak and too thin ... 3....put the block of wood between jack “disc” and longitudinal... 4 .... raise jack so Wood is “trapped “ between jack and car.. 5... loosen wheel nuts.. 6 ...raise car ..7.. remove , replace wheel.. 8 .... lower car and torque up the wheel nuts ... As for rear wheels use the same procedure but best use the heavy and thick aluminium trailing arm... don’t use the manuals jacking points “they ain’t “ strong enough... hope this helps.. most of all be safe and TAKE YOUR TIME