Absolutely brilliant. Just fixed my 15 year old Miele that wasn’t draining. All the black pump full of gunk. How to remove the front and side panel was invaluable. Many thanks, Sir.
You saved my day with this video. It turned out there was a lot of dirt in the chamber right before the outer drain. I cleaned it and now it works like a charm. And my wife is very impressed with me - what a bonus.
Thanks so much for this informative video. After experiencing a constant anti flood error on my Miele W3902 (even after tilting forward as many advise), it would not go away making the machine unusable. After following your instructions for opening i discovered the fault. Within the anti flood float device (it just turns out and clips pop it open) there is a small micro switch (from cherry) that had completely rusted out the contacts and jammed the switch itself. Replacing then device solved the problem. Wife is quite proud of me now 😂
I'm glad that the video helped and pleased that you fixed your fault. Hopefully others with the same problem will be helped by your advice on the switch.😊
Many thanks for your well explained repair. I had the same issue. The pump was turning and measuring the contacts on the pump with the lead removed showed 140 Ohms, so all good with the motor! The problem thankfully solved by removing all the hoses, flushing them with a hose pipe and nozzle and reassembly. Just one thing to add is...remember to put the orange emergency door opener back into the opening on the main panel before refitting ! Thanks again, G.
Thanks for this video. My laundry came out of my washing machine way to wet, while the centrifuge worked perfectly. I took all apart and finally the backflow protection was filled with something that looked like mud. I got it all out and now it works perfectly. Thanks to you. :D
Good video, so thank you for taking the time to pull this together. A good tip on all washing machines is carry out a service wash at 90C. I have always used half a bag of soda crystals dissolved in hot/near boiling water and add to the draw unit. This helps to de-gunk the drum and pipework etc. In terms of frequency I do this once every 2-3 months. This also stops the machine from developing smells.
Great tip! We have started doing the 90 degree wash after a previous comment on this video. When we replaced the outlet pump I was surprised how little gunk there was in all the pipework that time. I presume this was because we were doing the hot washes
Our issue came back 3 weeks later, I still suspect that it's a gunged up pressure chamber (shown at the end of my video), my wife put some washing machine cleaner through the machine and it seems to be working OK since. Perhaps that was all it needed - however, may be a cheap and easy way for others to try fixing their machines first. It may save cleaning all the pipes manually like I did??? Edit: 3 months later - it's still fine. Credit to the wife! A cleaner agent was all it needed.
Good work - we have a WDA101 too and use a cleaner regularly... it's also important to do a weekly hot wash at 60 and use the 90 programme from time to time. Have you had to change other parts yet like the shocks or brushes? We've not but this video will really help when the time comes!
The issue came back again a year later. I stripped the machine again and all was still very clean. I watched the failure when it happened and could feel the drain motor running by touching the filter flap at the front. But no water was draining even into a bucket. I replaced the motor with a compatible for £29 on eBay. SWMBO very happy again now. I am a hero again. Possibly the motor was struggling at the start of this journey and cleaning everything gave it enough of a chance to get the water out????
@@CorradoTDI I'm fairly sure that Miele have only used induction motors for their main motor for some years now, so no brushes of course. The earlier DC motors Miele used were very well engineered and the brushes lasted virtually the life of the machine in my experience.
@@Martindyna Not on this machine though - last of the old style chassis and uses a brushed motor. I actually picked up an entire motor brand new with brush module as it's common for the brushes to jam and wear the commutator.
We had a crack (and therefore a leak) in the chamber that connects to the outlet hose (I think it cracked when I set the machine down not-so-gently when moving it years ago -- it has leaked slightly ever since). This video helped us remove the chamber to find the crack. Now we'll be able to seal it. Thanks!
That's precisely why washing machines require re-blocking during transportation. However, I'm surprised this happened to a Miele washer, especially considering that they're high-end (whatever the hell that means these days).
If you mean reinstalling the transit bolts, I did reinsert those before transporting, but I think the breakage happened before I was able to do so, while I was manoeuvring the machine out of the tight spot that it was installed in. @@zlatanzakic
@@michaelmcgreevy4033 Yes, that's precisely what I meant, and since I planned my next (new) washer be Miele (the cheapest one, of course - I don't have money for more expensive ones in Serbia), I was afraid that even Miele began to cut corners regarding build quality these days.
Thank you. I just took my 17-year-old Miele machine apart last weekend and cleaned the pipes. I used a cake roller to push out all the gunk. Amazingly the machine works perfectly now.
Thank you very much for your instructive and really helpful film! I have cleared the long thin hose from the pump and upwards. That hose doesn't have a high pressure, as far as I understand, and therefore it easily clogs.
i've been having problems with my 17year old w504 draining very similar layout, panel work certainly the same. had a blockage on the narrow pipe to the pump massive build up of pet hair 🤢 gave everything else a clean as you descibed as i was there and seems to work a treat now. many thanks
Very helpful video- thanks. The w 1913 model is the same but a slightly different front removal. No kick panel , rather rests on two supports and lifts off. Warning tip: be sure to thread the orange door release overide through the the slot before putting everything back together otherwise you will get practice doing it all twice 🙄
Superb video - thanks so much! Had the F11 code appear occasionally over the last few weeks, then every time the machine was attempted to be used. A quick check showed that the drain pump seemed to be working fine, and would pump out a torrent of water. So, after watching your video, I disconnected the pressure switch pipe, and connected it to a foot pump, so that I could blow air back though it. Reconnected, and the machine ran fine the next try. I've ordered up a syringe, so that I can back flus it with water rather than take it all apart - hopefully that will last a while!
The white plastic peg holding the pressure sensor chamber in place ( towards the end of this U tube ) has a serated relief or contour and so it's just a question of applying grips and pulling it out - it does not have a screw thread. Contrary to this * very helpful U tubers advise the hose to the drum from the small plastic pressure chamber is easily replaced or pushed back onto its original location on the drum if removed for inspection .
Thank You very much, for this extremely informative video! It just saved my day! - And my wallet! The machine is a W5873 Edition 111. That has served us well for ten Years. And worked it's a** off, since new!
Brilliant guide We have a w3204 (10 yr old) which is identical inside to the one shown we had check drain and inlet flashing lights Removed the front kick panel then using a torch could see water sitting in the bottom trough After following this guide to remove front side and top panels i found the water inlet was dripping Seal not doing its job Removed the inlet and smeared some tigerseal inside the rubber seal and on the pipe it slides on to when you check genuine spare parts tigerseal is the way to go💯 BIG thanks for posting
At the end you mentioned grease to use for pushing back the water level sensing part. It is critical to avoid using grease (or any oil based substances) with rubber seal or part. If you must use dedicated sewer pipe lubricant or just plain old soap or dish soap. Why you ask? oil based substance like grease might case degradation of the rubber and thus a leak due to loosing a proper seal after some time. Cheers!
Thanks for the video. If I may add no1 clean filter. No2 clean the outlet chamber that is just under the lid with the ball in it. Be careful there is a washer that can fall out of the upper bit that can fall into the machine as you lift the cap. The ball floats up and seals the hole in the washer when the machine is draining. If this area is a little muddy (sticky)and a bit of grass or a tiny stick or a grain of sand stick in the mud the ball may not seal on the hole and the water will circulate instead of draining. I think cleaning these two items will get most machines going again and you only need to take off the lid.( 2 screws) and unclip the chamber.
I would also advise against using dish washer tablets as a means to clean a washing machine. I found hardened calcified remains of one or two of these in the large black rubber chamber immediately connected to the drum and part of the waste water cycle.
I am having trouble with my pw 6080 vario, it is giving a drain fault error. My problem is that my machine has an emergency drain that is engaged by pushing the drive wheel lever, i had to order a new lever but I am unsure as to how to reattach it and the cords that seem to be attached to it.
I'm really sorry, I'm not a washing machine technician, I just shared how I worked out how to fix my problem on my machine. I don't know your machine but wish you the best of luck with it
Thank you for the useful guidelines. What happened in my case was that the thread which held the chamber (7:41) onto the frame broke off, and off with it came a piece of the chamber. This ended up making a hole on the chamber. I suppose this must have happened during transportation (as I bought it second hand).
We've had ongoing drain faults with our Miele which looks like the same model - now at the stage where it won't spin - thinks about it and then clicks off, either counting down to zero time or showing the drain fault bar. I've already cleaned out the vent pipes which were grunged up and also the drain pipes. It has been flooding but not now as I took the front off again today and it's dry. I can see there are some pipes I could also have a go at but what baffles me is that it washes and rinses fine and so is draining after rinsing, but then fails at the end of the cycle when it's supposed to drain/spin so am a bit stumped.
If it won't drain then it won't spin. If it does drain at the end but won't spin then it sounds like some sort of balance issue to me - most washing machines will know when their load is out of balance and try and tumble the load for a minute or so before trying to spin again. If the clothes are still sodden from an incompete drain then balance achievement will be less efficient - diid you trydoing an empty wash? You can see if you don't get a full drain and also test teh balance theory.
@@westfielder01 Thanks for the idea but I don't think it's anything to do with the balance (I fitted new dampers recently). It's currently going through a full cycle on a first express wash but the drain pump keeps running at the end. Then a second wash it fails to drain properly and won't spin and I can't work out why. It must be something fairly simple if the machine is basically sound. As it stands at least it works for one cycle if left for a day or two and we have a garden to drip dry too. Otherwise it's new machine time.
@@dalstonjazz Sounds like it could be the pressure chamber or pressure switch - clean the first, if that doesn't work, replace the second.Not too expensive. Unless the machine is ancient I would persevere. They're supposed to be a good brand, I bought ours because it's not rivetted together and is repairable and Miele keep parts available. Good Luck
Nothing, if you mean just under the ball, it's just the pipe to your drain. If it's the big grey bit in the back of the machine it's empty. Just has air in it when machine not running.
I enjoyed this. I had a similar Miele machine that was dreadful. But I never had a problem with it draining 😂 gone to Bosch now seems better than the Miele and does move at all
This was a great video. We got the same machine and I've followed the steps to clean the pipes. Person we got it from did say it needs either fixing or parting out as it has some errors and some functions are not working. But, we could run quite a few cycles without issue, door just would never open. While opening machine, I found the NTC's cables were disconnected this whole time... Got a new one, hooked it up and now all of a sudden I get a water inlet error. Machine doesn't run at all now. Any idea what it could be? I'd be happy to get a replacement water inlet and solenoid (think that was an issue in any event), but, really don't want to keep tinkering with the machine only to find more and more issues. Fact the machine is not running atm is a point of hot discussion in the house since we've laundry to do and my MIL is arriving this week for a visit too. Any thoughts would be great!
There is an electrical lead inside the Miele that is relayed to a sensor on the cold water inlet. This lead which may now be hanging around loose somewhere must be reconnected for the circuitry to allow the inlet to operate . The loose lead - one of many from the rhs multi circuitry will have a white or clear mini plastic oblong connector at its end . You have to replace or relocate this mini connector block ( attached to the sensor lead ) back into where you removed it from earlier. This will be a small electrical junction block on a metal mounting a few inches away and in from the cold water feed . The cold water feed is obvious and could well be on the left and close to the waste water outlet- therefore on the opposite side, looking down, from all the electric wiring which is mainly bundled on the right.
Hi Marine , It's unlikely to be something wrong with the cold water feed pipe . Have you checked that the isolator valve lever is in the right [ vertical position ] allowing a mains water flow into your blue cold water feed pipe ...
I do feel sorry for you but also consider that your problem might well be easily resolvable an an electrical fault....that is simply a mini block or connector was removed from its original location during your recent DIY. This could also be likely as this particular lead crosses right over from right to left.
Hi Marine , If you stop this lovely U tube at around 3mins 40 seconds after the top has been removed and the Westfielder01 U tuber has started to look at the waste outlet...you will see just to the right where the inlet pipe meets the body of the Miele. Just inside the machines casing is a small plastic unit - this must be the inlet valve for the cold water feed . Very visibly should be- as in the video clip - an electrical lead...that plugs into a mini socket housed only ( 4,1/2 ?). inches away . This therefore is the electrical lead from the rest of the machine to the cold water valve and sensor. If not connected or in working order the Miele won't or can't allow the cold water valve to open and let water in for the wash cycle.
Finally and perhaps most relevant here is some advice that I would give about hygiene and drainage problems. Apart from replacing the waste water pump motor ( £30 currently- 2024 - Abay for example) check your outlets . In my case the waste water from the washer fed into the plastic bends directly under my kitchen sink. If there is a toxic build up of gunk in these plastic kitchen sink components then the it may well effect the hygiene levels in the washer. In the case of a Miele this is somehow monitored and eventually the washer will refuse to proceed with a cycle. Look out for constant warning lights against the hygiene indicator at the end of the cycle . [ no need to scratch ones head now that I have offered this possible explanation!]
Having trouble getting the drain screw out, when we try to unscrew it the turn screw unscrews and separates from the plug. Tried to get molegrips on the plug but not alot to clip to.. any ideas?
@@michaelsims9120 Hi Michael, sorry for delay - just got back from work. All I can think that you could do is take the front off as per my video, detatch the pump from the 'spout/screw housing' from the inside then try and get at the 'screw' from the pump side. If not, replace the screw and housing. I'm sure others on here may have a suggestion. If you work out a solution, please post for others who might have the same issue. Good luck
@@westfielder01 Thanks for your reply. After alot of rocking backwards and forwards with mole grips it freeded off. Once it was out, the hole was completely filled up with 20 Years of chalk, managed to chisel it out. All back together, 5 washing loads down and no issues. Thanks
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and takingthetrouble. Was super helpful and we are back up and running. People like you make the www a great place. 👏👍🏻😁
Really happy to have found this video for my W5470. Very similar but a little older. It was smelling and not rinsing well. Fault was found in the blocked small pipes feeding the soap dispenser etc. Nasty brown soft gunge. I wonder if this is caused by detergent or softener, assuming the main wash liquid goes out through the bottom end, and what the solution is. Powder, liquid tablet or what:)? Thank you for posting this up.
Hi, glad you're sorted. We have found that a max hot wash (empty drum if necessary) or a washing machine cleaner helps. I guess the brown stuff is just congealed old soap. 🙂
The small very last chamber or component with the small floating plastic ball can be removed with this model ( of Miele ) by a simple quarter turn anti clockwise ...and in order to complete this turn first remove the small diameter rubber hose entering horizontal at the top .
That is the very last internal part of the waste water circuit before the external hose that is connected at the back of the machine. The waste water hose and outlet is easily identifiable as is the larger diameter flexihose as cf the thinner tougher inlet [ fresh tap water pipe ].
Great video. And I followed it to the letter. So how heartbroken was I to see that despite finding some items in the system, that it didn’t resolve the issue. F138 still comes up and water is filling the bottom tray. Looks like I’m going to have to run the machine without the casing to see where the issue is. 😢
Thanks. Yup, sounds like you have a leak. An old mechanic trick was to blow chalk dust over all the surfaces then look for water trails. Might help if you can't find the leak. Don't forget that water and electricity don't make good friends. The case is earned to protect you. Inside parts may not be earthed.
@@westfielder01thank you for the chalk tips. Yeah I will have to be careful but I don’t see how it’s possible to diagnose the issue without seeing where the leak is coming from.
Thank you for the invaluable video. Hopefully it will sort my F11 error. only slight problem is I’ve lost the little yellow ball from the top back box bit. Is this essential? I am struggling to find a replacement part and it seems a shame to have to replace my washer because of 10 pence plastic ball :-(
I think you'd need to take the front off. But I suppose you could use a coat hanger and bend it into a hook shape and poke uit up where the yellow pull tab starts (see video) - please let us all know if you succeed! 🙂
Hello, I have the Miele TwinDos W1 and it does not recognize the detergent. If I do a wash with TwinDos, the detergent from containers 1 and 2 runs out in one wash. When I go to do a TwinDos cleaning, it shows a message that the container is empty. I cleaned all the detergent tubes. I checked the platinum sensor with an ohmmeter and saw that the resistance changes when there is flow. So, I assume it is okay. I changed the EZL166 control board, but the problem remains... If anyone has any other ideas on what to check, thank you very much!
Hi I did all the cleaning, everything is fine its still telling me check the Drainage and intent. And the word F and 135 is coming up ... any idea how I can fix that? thx.
Really sorry, I don't, I tried searching and found F135 is not used. F35 is a door interlock that could mean that the drum isn't emptying fully. But if your door is opening Ok. Then really not sure, maybe someone else on here may know.
Thank you for replying; there was water inside the machine on the bottom. I took it out and worked. I don’t know how the water leaked to there. But your video was very usual. Thank you.
I believe it's there to stop back flow of water into the machine via the drain pipe. So if, for instance, your drain pipe was shared with another device and it got blocked further away than the two devices' outputs then without the ball the output from the other device could come back into your washing machine via the drain hose. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I found it! It had rolled a loong way! Also I managed to fix the draining issue, some of the tubes were really clogged. Thanks again for the great video!
What's the purpose of the hose at 3:40. The water outlet at 4:02 at the back of my machine broke off. I want to lead the pipe at 6:38 straight out of the machine without the chamber at 6:42
Hi M, Firstly - I'm not a washing machine engineer so hopefully one might reply to you. I just wanted to show how to take the machine apart and how I resolved faults. I suspect that the chamber is like a u-bend and stops potential bad smells coming back into the machine. I think the ball stops water coming back in (if you had another device emptying into the same drain outlet). I would think that you would need to make sure that what ever you do you will need a pipe from the one at 6:38 to go to the top of the back of the machine to ensure that you have gravity on your side to make sure the water does actually drain into the outlet. Sorry I can't be of more help.
I am going open washing/drying model of it. Might be bit different. I hope i can fix the leakage which happens after wash program is finished. I don't know exactly there the problem lies. Anyway, very helpful video for dismantling and checking all tubes. Thank you
If it starts filling without being switched on its the inlet pump. If it fills too full or keeps filling then I would look at the pressure switch - see from 10:25 in the video. Water needs to go up the pipe to create air pressur above it to push on the diaphragm in the swich. If when clean it still does it you can try gently blowing up the pipe and if that stops the fill then you know it's a blockage in the pipes shown in the video from 10:25. If blowing doesn't stop the fill then check the connections on the switch or more likely you will need to replace the switch. Hope that helps - it would be what I tested first - good luck. Remember - I'm not a washing machine technician, just someone who has managed to fix a few machines in the past.
Szia! Most találtam a videódra. Tudnál tanácsot adni, most vennék egy Miele mosógépet használtan, úgy tudom a vas csillagú tartósabb ezek közül melyeket tudnád ajánlani? Üdvözlet Budapestről.
Szia, sajnálom, de nem tudok segíteni. Azért vettem egy Miele-t, mert elektronikai mérnök voltam, és szeretek javítani, és a Miele hosszú évekig megőrzi az alkatrészeket. Azt is mondják, hogy minden állandó szegecsek nélkül összecsavarodik, és a gépek jól meg vannak építve. Azt javaslom, hogy keressen egy olyan modellt, amely megfelel az Ön mosási igényeinek. Üdvözlet Angliából 😁
Hi, I'm hoping that you can help please! I have an identical machine (about 16 years old). I had the usual two red fault lights, and have tried all sorts, and in the end have tripped down and cleaned (as in your video) I also tried pressing and holding buttons, and I have somehow managed to get the start light fast flashing, and now all lights and displays light in a sequence loop continuously! Do you know how to reset the machine? What ever I try, I cant seem to get it back to normal! I have searched extensively on line, but there doesn't seem to be any info about resetting these older models.
Sorry, not a clue - as I said, I'm not a washing machine engineer.The only thing I found in the manual was "To switch off the fault indicator: Switch the washing machine off with the button and turn the programme selector to Finish." But I'm sure you have tried that. It sound like you have entered some kind of engineers diagnostic to test all the lights. I failed to find a service manual. I think Miele call them Technical Guides. Do let us know if you find out how to get around this. Sorry I can't help further
Excellent video 👏👏👏 I have F138 code so will be attempting parts of this, hopefully shouldn’t have to go the full way! Update: looks like my leak was coming from the Sump Hose. Once this is removed it can be filled with water and mine was dripping from one of the creases.
The tab you broke off, you don't need to drill that out, you can use a wide, flat blade screwdriver and very gently lever behind it. It will just pull out.
Thanks for the clarification, it will help others. So how does the machine know when it's finished emptying? Or for that fact when/how it knows it's got an emptying problem?
What works best is running Cottons 95 with a dishwasher tab or killrock discaler monthly, and keep on top of hot washes like towels make sure they are on long washes, I’ve never had gunge build up, also powder is better for the machine like Ariel powder as it’s biological, non bio is bad for your machine, gel is also bad for the machine and doing quick washes is a big no no same as washing lower than 40 as it causes trouble like this
Absolutely brilliant. Just fixed my 15 year old Miele that wasn’t draining. All the black pump full of gunk. How to remove the front and side panel was invaluable. Many thanks, Sir.
Love it - thanks. More landfill saved... for a bit.
You saved my day with this video. It turned out there was a lot of dirt in the chamber right before the outer drain. I cleaned it and now it works like a charm. And my wife is very impressed with me - what a bonus.
Brilliant, well done - gotta keep the wife happy. Did you manage it yesterday - on Valentine's day - double points if so 🙂
Great video. Very detailled instruction. I managed to fix my old Miele machine and saved a couple of hundred Euros.
Great news. Well done and thank you for the post 😊
Thanks so much for this informative video. After experiencing a constant anti flood error on my Miele W3902 (even after tilting forward as many advise), it would not go away making the machine unusable. After following your instructions for opening i discovered the fault. Within the anti flood float device (it just turns out and clips pop it open) there is a small micro switch (from cherry) that had completely rusted out the contacts and jammed the switch itself. Replacing then device solved the problem. Wife is quite proud of me now 😂
I'm glad that the video helped and pleased that you fixed your fault. Hopefully others with the same problem will be helped by your advice on the switch.😊
Many thanks for your well explained repair. I had the same issue. The pump was turning and measuring the contacts on the pump with the lead removed showed 140 Ohms, so all good with the motor! The problem thankfully solved by removing all the hoses, flushing them with a hose pipe and nozzle and reassembly. Just one thing to add is...remember to put the orange emergency door opener back into the opening on the main panel before refitting ! Thanks again, G.
Many thanks - Glad it helped. I agree, yes, it's a pain when you put the front back on and forget to slot the yellow handle into the filter door.
Thanks for this video. My laundry came out of my washing machine way to wet, while the centrifuge worked perfectly.
I took all apart and finally the backflow protection was filled with something that looked like mud. I got it all out and now it works perfectly. Thanks to you. :D
Thanks for the vote of thanks Ron. Glad you / your wardrobe is sorted :-)
Good video, so thank you for taking the time to pull this together. A good tip on all washing machines is carry out a service wash at 90C. I have always used half a bag of soda crystals dissolved in hot/near boiling water and add to the draw unit. This helps to de-gunk the drum and pipework etc. In terms of frequency I do this once every 2-3 months. This also stops the machine from developing smells.
Great tip! We have started doing the 90 degree wash after a previous comment on this video. When we replaced the outlet pump I was surprised how little gunk there was in all the pipework that time. I presume this was because we were doing the hot washes
Our issue came back 3 weeks later, I still suspect that it's a gunged up pressure chamber (shown at the end of my video), my wife put some washing machine cleaner through the machine and it seems to be working OK since. Perhaps that was all it needed - however, may be a cheap and easy way for others to try fixing their machines first. It may save cleaning all the pipes manually like I did???
Edit: 3 months later - it's still fine. Credit to the wife! A cleaner agent was all it needed.
Good work - we have a WDA101 too and use a cleaner regularly... it's also important to do a weekly hot wash at 60 and use the 90 programme from time to time. Have you had to change other parts yet like the shocks or brushes? We've not but this video will really help when the time comes!
@@CorradoTDI thanks. No, no other parts yet. Will take your advice on the hot wash regularly 😄 👍
The issue came back again a year later. I stripped the machine again and all was still very clean. I watched the failure when it happened and could feel the drain motor running by touching the filter flap at the front. But no water was draining even into a bucket. I replaced the motor with a compatible for £29 on eBay. SWMBO very happy again now. I am a hero again.
Possibly the motor was struggling at the start of this journey and cleaning everything gave it enough of a chance to get the water out????
@@CorradoTDI I'm fairly sure that Miele have only used induction motors for their main motor for some years now, so no brushes of course.
The earlier DC motors Miele used were very well engineered and the brushes lasted virtually the life of the machine in my experience.
@@Martindyna Not on this machine though - last of the old style chassis and uses a brushed motor. I actually picked up an entire motor brand new with brush module as it's common for the brushes to jam and wear the commutator.
We had a crack (and therefore a leak) in the chamber that connects to the outlet hose (I think it cracked when I set the machine down not-so-gently when moving it years ago -- it has leaked slightly ever since). This video helped us remove the chamber to find the crack. Now we'll be able to seal it. Thanks!
That's precisely why washing machines require re-blocking during transportation. However, I'm surprised this happened to a Miele washer, especially considering that they're high-end (whatever the hell that means these days).
If you mean reinstalling the transit bolts, I did reinsert those before transporting, but I think the breakage happened before I was able to do so, while I was manoeuvring the machine out of the tight spot that it was installed in. @@zlatanzakic
@@michaelmcgreevy4033 Yes, that's precisely what I meant, and since I planned my next (new) washer be Miele (the cheapest one, of course - I don't have money for more expensive ones in Serbia), I was afraid that even Miele began to cut corners regarding build quality these days.
Cannot you identify and simply replace this one small plastic part - Miele spares /espares/ aspares ...
Thank you. I just took my 17-year-old Miele machine apart last weekend and cleaned the pipes. I used a cake roller to push out all the gunk. Amazingly the machine works perfectly now.
Congrats and well done :-)
Excellent video, it saved my day! Als pipes and connections were clean and dry but it turned out that the source of the leak was in the door membrane.
Thanks for your comments, glad you got sorted. 😊
Thank you very much for your instructive and really helpful film! I have cleared the long thin hose from the pump and upwards. That hose doesn't have a high pressure, as far as I understand, and therefore it easily clogs.
Thanks - I think you are right, glad it helped
😊
i've been having problems with my 17year old w504 draining very similar layout, panel work certainly the same. had a blockage on the narrow pipe to the pump massive build up of pet hair 🤢 gave everything else a clean as you descibed as i was there and seems to work a treat now. many thanks
So glad it helped. As I say, I'm not an expert, just sharing what I found out. Thanks for your comment 😊
Very helpful video- thanks. The w 1913 model is the same but a slightly different front removal. No kick panel , rather rests on two supports and lifts off. Warning tip: be sure to thread the orange door release overide through the the slot before putting everything back together otherwise you will get practice doing it all twice 🙄
Good tips - I have done that more than once!
Many thanks! After getting the drain fault message we've followed your video and cleaned the gunk out of the smaller pipes and reservoir, all sorted!
Fab, It's nice to hear when I have helped - have a nice day :-). Please subscribe - I need a fedw more to monetize!
How has it held up do you still have it
Still going strong!
Superb video - thanks so much! Had the F11 code appear occasionally over the last few weeks, then every time the machine was attempted to be used. A quick check showed that the drain pump seemed to be working fine, and would pump out a torrent of water. So, after watching your video, I disconnected the pressure switch pipe, and connected it to a foot pump, so that I could blow air back though it. Reconnected, and the machine ran fine the next try. I've ordered up a syringe, so that I can back flus it with water rather than take it all apart - hopefully that will last a while!
Excellent, you may find cleaner or hot wash may help as described below.
The white plastic peg holding the pressure sensor chamber in place ( towards the end of this U tube ) has a serated relief or contour and so it's just a question of applying grips and pulling it out - it does not have a screw thread.
Contrary to this * very helpful U tubers advise the hose to the drum from the small plastic pressure chamber is easily replaced or pushed back onto its original location on the drum if removed for inspection .
Thank You very much, for this extremely informative video! It just saved my day! - And my wallet!
The machine is a W5873 Edition 111. That has served us well for ten Years. And worked it's a** off, since new!
Brilliant guide We have a w3204 (10 yr old) which is identical inside to the one shown
we had check drain and inlet flashing lights
Removed the front kick panel then using a torch could see water sitting in the bottom trough
After following this guide to remove front side and top panels i found the water inlet was dripping
Seal not doing its job Removed the inlet and smeared some tigerseal inside the rubber seal and on the pipe it slides on to
when you check genuine spare parts tigerseal is the way to go💯
BIG thanks for posting
Thanks so much for your positive/kind comments. Great advice on Tigerseal. I'm sure it will help others.
At the end you mentioned grease to use for pushing back the water level sensing part.
It is critical to avoid using grease (or any oil based substances) with rubber seal or part. If you must use dedicated sewer pipe lubricant or just plain old soap or dish soap.
Why you ask? oil based substance like grease might case degradation of the rubber and thus a leak due to loosing a proper seal after some time.
Cheers!
Excellent input,thanks Robert. I was going on what I had seen in another video. Your input will help others😀👍👍
Thanks for the video. If I may add no1 clean filter. No2 clean the outlet chamber that is just under the lid with the ball in it. Be careful there is a washer that can fall out of the upper bit that can fall into the machine as you lift the cap. The ball floats up and seals the hole in the washer when the machine is draining. If this area is a little muddy (sticky)and a bit of grass or a tiny stick or a grain of sand stick in the mud the ball may not seal on the hole and the water will circulate instead of draining. I think cleaning these two items will get most machines going again and you only need to take off the lid.( 2 screws) and unclip the chamber.
Thanks big all suggestions welcome. Your experience may save others time 😊
I would also advise against using dish washer tablets as a means to clean a washing machine. I found hardened calcified remains of one or two of these in the large black rubber chamber immediately connected to the drum and part of the waste water cycle.
You got some serious ambition… id have replaced the entire unit after checking the drain plug
🤣
I am having trouble with my pw 6080 vario, it is giving a drain fault error. My problem is that my machine has an emergency drain that is engaged by pushing the drive wheel lever, i had to order a new lever but I am unsure as to how to reattach it and the cords that seem to be attached to it.
I'm really sorry, I'm not a washing machine technician, I just shared how I worked out how to fix my problem on my machine. I don't know your machine but wish you the best of luck with it
Thank you for the useful guidelines.
What happened in my case was that the thread which held the chamber (7:41) onto the frame broke off, and off with it came a piece of the chamber. This ended up making a hole on the chamber.
I suppose this must have happened during transportation (as I bought it second hand).
We've had ongoing drain faults with our Miele which looks like the same model - now at the stage where it won't spin - thinks about it and then clicks off, either counting down to zero time or showing the drain fault bar. I've already cleaned out the vent pipes which were grunged up and also the drain pipes. It has been flooding but not now as I took the front off again today and it's dry. I can see there are some pipes I could also have a go at but what baffles me is that it washes and rinses fine and so is draining after rinsing, but then fails at the end of the cycle when it's supposed to drain/spin so am a bit stumped.
If it won't drain then it won't spin. If it does drain at the end but won't spin then it sounds like some sort of balance issue to me - most washing machines will know when their load is out of balance and try and tumble the load for a minute or so before trying to spin again. If the clothes are still sodden from an incompete drain then balance achievement will be less efficient - diid you trydoing an empty wash? You can see if you don't get a full drain and also test teh balance theory.
@@westfielder01 Thanks for the idea but I don't think it's anything to do with the balance (I fitted new dampers recently). It's currently going through a full cycle on a first express wash but the drain pump keeps running at the end. Then a second wash it fails to drain properly and won't spin and I can't work out why. It must be something fairly simple if the machine is basically sound. As it stands at least it works for one cycle if left for a day or two and we have a garden to drip dry too. Otherwise it's new machine time.
@@dalstonjazz Sounds like it could be the pressure chamber or pressure switch - clean the first, if that doesn't work, replace the second.Not too expensive. Unless the machine is ancient I would persevere. They're supposed to be a good brand, I bought ours because it's not rivetted together and is repairable and Miele keep parts available. Good Luck
That could be an issue with the balancing system
@@dalstonjazz Did you manage to sort it?
What an informative video, thank you very much.
Thank you, your video helped a lot :) I have a „Viva Star W 400“, which looks pretty much the same. Cheers from Hannover, Germany
Great job, thanks for taking the efforts to share and educate others .
Thanks Leopold - glad it helped :-)
Hi can you tell me in more detail about the grey coloured camber underneath the "little ball". what inside it ??
Nothing, if you mean just under the ball, it's just the pipe to your drain. If it's the big grey bit in the back of the machine it's empty. Just has air in it when machine not running.
that model was first released in 2016.
Pomocny filmik i to bardzo, dziękuje jeszcze raz co prawda mam inny model ale dobrać do środka tak samo
Dziękuję za miły komentarz
I enjoyed this. I had a similar Miele machine that was dreadful. But I never had a problem with it draining 😂 gone to Bosch now seems better than the Miele and does move at all
I meant to say doesn’t move. The Miele used to vibrate occasionally and literally slide across the floor. It sounded like a machine gun 😂
This was a great video. We got the same machine and I've followed the steps to clean the pipes. Person we got it from did say it needs either fixing or parting out as it has some errors and some functions are not working. But, we could run quite a few cycles without issue, door just would never open. While opening machine, I found the NTC's cables were disconnected this whole time... Got a new one, hooked it up and now all of a sudden I get a water inlet error. Machine doesn't run at all now. Any idea what it could be? I'd be happy to get a replacement water inlet and solenoid (think that was an issue in any event), but, really don't want to keep tinkering with the machine only to find more and more issues. Fact the machine is not running atm is a point of hot discussion in the house since we've laundry to do and my MIL is arriving this week for a visit too. Any thoughts would be great!
Or do i replace the water inlet and call it a day after that if the machine doesnt work still. Im leaning towards giving this a last go.
There is an electrical lead inside the Miele that is relayed to a sensor on the cold water inlet.
This lead which may now be hanging around loose somewhere must be reconnected for the circuitry to allow the inlet to operate . The loose lead - one of many from the rhs multi circuitry will have a white or clear mini plastic oblong connector at its end .
You have to replace or relocate this mini connector block ( attached to the sensor lead ) back into where you removed it from earlier.
This will be a small electrical junction block on a metal mounting a few inches away and in from the cold water feed .
The cold water feed is obvious and could well be on the left and close to the waste water outlet- therefore on the opposite side, looking down, from all the electric wiring which is mainly bundled on the right.
Hi Marine ,
It's unlikely to be something wrong with the cold water feed pipe . Have you checked that the isolator valve lever is in the right [ vertical position ] allowing a mains water flow into your blue cold water feed pipe ...
I do feel sorry for you but also consider that your problem might well be easily resolvable an an electrical fault....that is simply a mini block or connector was removed from its original location during your recent DIY.
This could also be likely as this particular lead crosses right over from right to left.
Hi Marine ,
If you stop this lovely U tube at around 3mins 40 seconds after the top has been removed and the Westfielder01 U tuber has started to look at the waste outlet...you will see just to the right where the inlet pipe meets the body of the Miele. Just inside the machines casing is a small plastic unit - this must be the inlet valve for the cold water feed . Very visibly should be- as in the video clip - an electrical lead...that plugs into a mini socket housed only ( 4,1/2 ?). inches away . This therefore is the electrical lead from the rest of the machine to the cold water valve and sensor. If not connected or in working order the Miele won't or can't allow the cold water valve to open and let water in for the wash cycle.
Finally and perhaps most relevant here is some advice that I would give about hygiene and drainage problems.
Apart from replacing the waste water pump motor ( £30 currently- 2024 - Abay for example) check your outlets . In my case the waste water from the washer fed into the plastic bends directly under my kitchen sink. If there is a toxic build up of gunk in these plastic kitchen sink components then the it may well effect the hygiene levels in the washer. In the case of a Miele this is somehow monitored and eventually the washer will refuse to proceed with a cycle. Look out for constant warning lights against the hygiene indicator at the end of the cycle .
[ no need to scratch ones head now that I have offered this possible explanation!]
Thank you for this video. I have another Problem with my Miele W 5873. The motor drain is run permanently. Do you what can it be?
Having trouble getting the drain screw out, when we try to unscrew it the turn screw unscrews and separates from the plug. Tried to get molegrips on the plug but not alot to clip to.. any ideas?
Not sure what you mean by drain screw? Could you elaborate? 🤔 😃
@@westfielder01 Thanks for replying, i mean the front left filter screw once you have put the flap down. Thanks?
@@michaelsims9120 Hi Michael, sorry for delay - just got back from work. All I can think that you could do is take the front off as per my video, detatch the pump from the 'spout/screw housing' from the inside then try and get at the 'screw' from the pump side. If not, replace the screw and housing. I'm sure others on here may have a suggestion. If you work out a solution, please post for others who might have the same issue. Good luck
@@westfielder01 Thanks for your reply. After alot of rocking backwards and forwards with mole grips it freeded off. Once it was out, the hole was completely filled up with 20 Years of chalk, managed to chisel it out. All back together, 5 washing loads down and no issues. Thanks
Hooray, well done @@michaelsims9120so glad you got it sorted 😃
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and takingthetrouble. Was super helpful and we are back up and running. People like you make the www a great place. 👏👍🏻😁
So pleased it helped. Many thanks for your kind comments 😁
Can you please me what the grey coloured camber function is. ?
To be honest - I don't know! Perhaps someone else on here may know?? - Sorry
Really happy to have found this video for my W5470. Very similar but a little older. It was smelling and not rinsing well. Fault was found in the blocked small pipes feeding the soap dispenser etc. Nasty brown soft gunge. I wonder if this is caused by detergent or softener, assuming the main wash liquid goes out through the bottom end, and what the solution is. Powder, liquid tablet or what:)? Thank you for posting this up.
Hi, glad you're sorted. We have found that a max hot wash (empty drum if necessary) or a washing machine cleaner helps. I guess the brown stuff is just congealed old soap. 🙂
Superb little video , thank you
Thank you too
The small very last chamber or component with the small floating plastic ball can be removed with this model ( of Miele ) by a simple quarter turn anti clockwise ...and in order to complete this turn first remove the small diameter rubber hose entering horizontal at the top .
That is the very last internal part of the waste water circuit before the external hose that is connected at the back of the machine. The waste water hose and outlet is easily identifiable as is the larger diameter flexihose as cf the thinner tougher inlet [ fresh tap water pipe ].
Great video. And I followed it to the letter. So how heartbroken was I to see that despite finding some items in the system, that it didn’t resolve the issue. F138 still comes up and water is filling the bottom tray. Looks like I’m going to have to run the machine without the casing to see where the issue is. 😢
Thanks. Yup, sounds like you have a leak. An old mechanic trick was to blow chalk dust over all the surfaces then look for water trails. Might help if you can't find the leak. Don't forget that water and electricity don't make good friends. The case is earned to protect you. Inside parts may not be earthed.
@@westfielder01thank you for the chalk tips. Yeah I will have to be careful but I don’t see how it’s possible to diagnose the issue without seeing where the leak is coming from.
Brilliant video - very clear and reassuring to the first time dismantler.
Glad it was helpful! 😁
Brilliant throughout you explain so clearly video so sharp and clear thanks keep safe
Thank you for your kind comments 😊
Thank you for the invaluable video. Hopefully it will sort my F11 error. only slight problem is I’ve lost the little yellow ball from the top back box bit. Is this essential? I am struggling to find a replacement part and it seems a shame to have to replace my washer because of 10 pence plastic ball :-(
It stops back flow if the exit pipe gets full. Will work without. You could probably buy one online somewhere. Glad your machine is fixed😊
@@westfielder01 part number 5140870 entitled "ball" ordered from Miele website 👍
@@westfielder01 part number 5140870, entitled "Ball"
Great job! I fix my machine because of you 🙏🙏🙏
Good to know it's helping, thank you
The yellow pull tab was broken is there a way to open the door?
I think you'd need to take the front off. But I suppose you could use a coat hanger and bend it into a hook shape and poke uit up where the yellow pull tab starts (see video) - please let us all know if you succeed! 🙂
Many thanks for the video, made my repair with my W5000 so much easier!!!
Hello,
I have the Miele TwinDos W1 and it does not recognize the detergent. If I do a wash with TwinDos, the detergent from containers 1 and 2 runs out in one wash. When I go to do a TwinDos cleaning, it shows a message that the container is empty.
I cleaned all the detergent tubes.
I checked the platinum sensor with an ohmmeter and saw that the resistance changes when there is flow. So, I assume it is okay.
I changed the EZL166 control board, but the problem remains...
If anyone has any other ideas on what to check, thank you very much!
Pięknie dziękuję za pokazanie jak zdjąć przód !!!
Nie ma za co
Hi I did all the cleaning, everything is fine its still telling me check the Drainage and intent. And the word F and 135 is coming up ... any idea how I can fix that? thx.
Really sorry, I don't, I tried searching and found F135 is not used. F35 is a door interlock that could mean that the drum isn't emptying fully. But if your door is opening Ok. Then really not sure, maybe someone else on here may know.
Thank you for replying; there was water inside the machine on the bottom. I took it out and worked. I don’t know how the water leaked to there. But your video was very usual. Thank you.
@@alijameel5130 Excellent - well Done. Your reply will probably help others too 🙂
Thanks so much for this! I lost that little ball (not sure how or where). Is it very important? If so how can I find a new one?
I believe it's there to stop back flow of water into the machine via the drain pipe. So if, for instance, your drain pipe was shared with another device and it got blocked further away than the two devices' outputs then without the ball the output from the other device could come back into your washing machine via the drain hose. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.
No idea where to get another one - I guess if you spoke nicely to Miele they might stick one in the post - can't cost them much 🙂
I found it! It had rolled a loong way! Also I managed to fix the draining issue, some of the tubes were really clogged. Thanks again for the great video!
RESULT! Well done :-)@@markussnellman3984
What's the purpose of the hose at 3:40. The water outlet at 4:02 at the back of my machine broke off. I want to lead the pipe at 6:38 straight out of the machine without the chamber at 6:42
Hi M, Firstly - I'm not a washing machine engineer so hopefully one might reply to you. I just wanted to show how to take the machine apart and how I resolved faults. I suspect that the chamber is like a u-bend and stops potential bad smells coming back into the machine. I think the ball stops water coming back in (if you had another device emptying into the same drain outlet). I would think that you would need to make sure that what ever you do you will need a pipe from the one at 6:38 to go to the top of the back of the machine to ensure that you have gravity on your side to make sure the water does actually drain into the outlet. Sorry I can't be of more help.
@@bigv1682 Obviously I would lead the pipe to the same outlet height, so the water can't run out.
I am going open washing/drying model of it. Might be bit different. I hope i can fix the leakage which happens after wash program is finished. I don't know exactly there the problem lies. Anyway, very helpful video for dismantling and checking all tubes. Thank you
Glad it helped
Any idea whats wrong with WDA101; 40°C programs work fine, 60°C programs overfills water and floods😮
That's an odd one. Time for forum searching and posting. Sorry I can't be more help. Can't think of anything that would cause that.
Our Miele drum keeps filling with water any idea why mate?
If it starts filling without being switched on its the inlet pump. If it fills too full or keeps filling then I would look at the pressure switch - see from 10:25 in the video. Water needs to go up the pipe to create air pressur above it to push on the diaphragm in the swich. If when clean it still does it you can try gently blowing up the pipe and if that stops the fill then you know it's a blockage in the pipes shown in the video from 10:25. If blowing doesn't stop the fill then check the connections on the switch or more likely you will need to replace the switch. Hope that helps - it would be what I tested first - good luck. Remember - I'm not a washing machine technician, just someone who has managed to fix a few machines in the past.
Szia! Most találtam a videódra. Tudnál tanácsot adni, most vennék egy Miele mosógépet használtan, úgy tudom a vas csillagú tartósabb ezek közül melyeket tudnád ajánlani?
Üdvözlet Budapestről.
Szia, sajnálom, de nem tudok segíteni. Azért vettem egy Miele-t, mert elektronikai mérnök voltam, és szeretek javítani, és a Miele hosszú évekig megőrzi az alkatrészeket. Azt is mondják, hogy minden állandó szegecsek nélkül összecsavarodik, és a gépek jól meg vannak építve. Azt javaslom, hogy keressen egy olyan modellt, amely megfelel az Ön mosási igényeinek. Üdvözlet Angliából 😁
Very helpful! Thank you!
Hi, I'm hoping that you can help please! I have an identical machine (about 16 years old). I had the usual two red fault lights, and have tried all sorts, and in the end have tripped down and cleaned (as in your video) I also tried pressing and holding buttons, and I have somehow managed to get the start light fast flashing, and now all lights and displays light in a sequence loop continuously! Do you know how to reset the machine? What ever I try, I cant seem to get it back to normal! I have searched extensively on line, but there doesn't seem to be any info about resetting these older models.
Sorry, not a clue - as I said, I'm not a washing machine engineer.The only thing I found in the manual was "To switch off the fault indicator: Switch the washing machine off with the button and turn the programme selector to Finish." But I'm sure you have tried that. It sound like you have entered some kind of engineers diagnostic to test all the lights. I failed to find a service manual. I think Miele call them Technical Guides. Do let us know if you find out how to get around this. Sorry I can't help further
@@westfielder01 Thanks for the reply, I'll try to fine a tame Miele engineer!
Thank you so much!
Really helpful video thank you
Excellent video 👏👏👏
I have F138 code so will be attempting parts of this, hopefully shouldn’t have to go the full way!
Update: looks like my leak was coming from the Sump Hose. Once this is removed it can be filled with water and mine was dripping from one of the creases.
Great Help! Thanks a lot!
Happy it helped 🙂
The tab you broke off, you don't need to drill that out, you can use a wide, flat blade screwdriver and very gently lever behind it. It will just pull out.
ahh fantastic, thanks for that. Will it go back in too? Or get a new bit?
As long as you don't break it anymore then it should just push back in.
@@westfielder01
It doesn't detect a vacuum, it detects pressure. So if you have a fill problem, this being blocked may be the cause.
Thanks for the clarification, it will help others. So how does the machine know when it's finished emptying? Or for that fact when/how it knows it's got an emptying problem?
Many thanks, helped me a lot
Glad to hear that!
1:50 Being able to turn the impeller manually does not mean it's not a faulty part.
I had the filter removed and the door open and running the swinging program I saw the impeller was actually turning (fast).
My problem was fixed by cleaning the outlet at 4:00, was lucky not to have to open the machine more. Thanks for the video!
You're right, in the end it was our pump. The impeller turning does not tell you a lot unless it's stiff, Wobbly or just turns freely.
Thank you for your answer.
Nice video. It's Meela not Meeley btw 😁😁
What works best is running Cottons 95 with a dishwasher tab or killrock discaler monthly, and keep on top of hot washes like towels make sure they are on long washes, I’ve never had gunge build up, also powder is better for the machine like Ariel powder as it’s biological, non bio is bad for your machine, gel is also bad for the machine and doing quick washes is a big no no same as washing lower than 40 as it causes trouble like this
In my case, it was the opposite. Since i used calgon tab for maschine each time i wash, after a while it started leaking.
Thank you.
You're welcome 🙂
GRACIAS, 👍!
Super!
Thank you! Cheers!
Thank you so much!