Differences Between New & Red River Gorge Climbing

Hello everyone and welcome back to court climbs! A lot of people ask me which climbing area is better, the New River Gorge or the Red River Gorge? The answer isn't so clear cut, as both have their pros and cons. In this video I'll be going over some of the basic differences between climbing at the New River Gorge and Red River Gorge, based on my experiences climbing at both over the course of the past couple years!
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[@stevelineberry]

There been some good conversations on Power Company Climbing discussing some of these differences. I agree with what you said but I would reduce it down to the NRG requires more commitment. Where that is committing the mental aspects of the bolting, committing to more bouldery sequences and committing to the longer hikes needed to get to some of the best climbing.

[@courtclimbs]

I can see your thought process here for sure, that’s a good way of looking at it!

[@stevelineberry]

@@courtclimbs Check out one of the latest Power Company Climbing podcasts where they interview Kerry Scott (who just sent Mango Tango). It was interesting to hear her perspective on the NRG.

[@troygregory286]

I started outdoor climbing in the RRG. Now I’m happy to call the NRG ‘home’ for at least part of the year. I think you’ve done a nice job here with both. When I’m telling people about the two, here’s how I say it: Getting to the crag in the Red is harder on your car and easier on your legs than the New. Climbing-wise, almost every bolted route in the NRG has a crux. As you go up in grade the difficulty becomes more similar, but beginning climbers will feel like there are no feet in the New given the abundance in the Red. Good stuff!

[@courtclimbs]

Thanks for your comment and for watching! 💛🤘

[@josephgreen5503]

As a new climber from KY I grew up hiking the RRG but have never climbed there. I’m really excited to try it out this year. NRG is beautiful and I’ve stumbled upon some walls during some hikes. Would love to try there as well!

[@AlexTighe]

We visited the NRG a few years back and were blown away with the bolt spacing. And the fact that a stick clip is almost 100% necessary even on easier routes...some of the first bolts are wayyyy too high off the deck!!

[@courtclimbs]

Yeah there’s a definite need for a stick clip haha!

[@isaiahhaynie1510]

That is usually to keep people from decking going to the second bolt!

[@AlexTighe]

@@isaiahhaynie1510 Fair enough! I didn't sport climb before leaving to Europe. Here the first two bolts are often very close together to avoid decking. Definite shock to see the American style to bolt higher off the ground!

[@SendStory]

I have yet to climb at either, but this will be helpful when I hopefully get out to both. Thanks for putting this together. It would be cool to see comparisons between other areas as well.

[@courtclimbs]

Glad you found it helpful! I would love to make more comparison videos once I’ve been in other areas enough to feel like I have a decent feel for them! :)

[@Kyle_climbing]

This was fun to watch. I think the comparison between grades at the red and new are difficult to pinpoint and vary from spot to spot. I feel like the routes around bruise brothers and the gun wall (adjacent to the colosseum at summersville) have different styles, but the difficultly feels similar. I feel like a lot of the 5.10s I’ve tried at Drive By feel quite hard for the grade. I agree about the rain and the new. I would contribute that there are great bouldering spots to hit at the new that stay dry, like Junkyard Cave. That area should be good for most that day project in the v5 range.

[@courtclimbs]

Thanks for the input here! I think now that I’ve climbed at the New a bit more, I definitely see the variance in grading like you’re talking about.

[@CourtneyWarren]

great breakdown on these areas!

[@courtclimbs]

🤘💛🤘💛🤘💛

[@LouDude502]

Nicely done. Approach beta seems to be changing in NRG. The NRG IS cool, but the RRG is my home and favorite.

[@vrmartin202]

So nicely done! I can hear someone piping up the exceptions. Sure: for every generalization there are exceptions. Like I said elsewhere: I tend to love the one I’m at. But: I don’t really have to choose. From NE Ohio both areas are quite accessible. Love them both and love this video. Thanks for making it!

[@courtclimbs]

Thanks Vern! You’re exactly right, these are generalizations, and obviously based on my experience, which I’m sure is biased in one way or another no matter how objective I tried to be. Hope you are having fun climbing!

[@demoniccat1005]

I’m an nrg climber, and coming from the gym I feel like certain climbs are similar grades to gyms, and some 11s were 12s if you weren’t 6 feet tall

[@johnnguyen-]

NRG is total choss, def go to the Red ;)

[@courtclimbs]

👌👌👌👌 😂

[@PunkPino]

Yes, everyone go to the red, the new is crap

[@objectivethinker3225]

@@PunkPino
Yessssss. Please don't come to the New. It's so terrible. I won't be there again next weekend.