I really appreciate these short videos. I'm retired now, but started wood working and contracting in the early seventies. We did not have the internet then so it was necessary to discover these tips myself. Sure wish access to all this information had been so easily available then. I even had a machinist make me a number of interchangeable bits and drills for my electric drill to save time. I was not bright enough to get a patent on the idea, just had it made for my own use. Makes me wonder how many thousands of hours Ron's ideas have saved us all.
I woke up this morning preparing to cut 1/2” drawer dividers for a bathroom vanity project and so was thrilled to see the tutorial on templates. The quick and dirty on the chop saw is brilliant! Big fan for last 5 years of everything Paulk Smart! Thank you!
Brilliant video Ron....I've spent hours drilling, sawing and sanding to make cut out templates...I can't believe that it never occurred to me to use my mitre saw to make a simple template to produce the precise one. This is the point where I slap myself on the head and say "doh." This is why your channel is so good..you learn something new every time that subscription bell goes 'ping'.
I have a permanent knot on my head from slapping myself. My channel is really about telling you what I have learned from decades of mistakes in hopes the Smart Woodshop family can skip wasting time and material. Plus impress their clients especially if the client is your wife.😎🤙
Hi Ron. Mark from South Africa. I bought your original plan many years back. The workbench formed the foundation of my workshop. I spent hundreds of wonderful hours building stuff on it. I came back and viewed your new material, tips, and of course your Smart solutions. I bought everything. Been going through your work methodology. Makes so much sense. I'm going to use your plans to totally redo my 3 car garage workshop at home. I will share my experience with you. Btw. You've done an extraordinary job of sharing your information and time learned skills. I appreciate your work. Thank You.
Hey Ron! I know this video is about 2 years old but it is still my “go to” for a refresher on how to use a router with template bushings. Something about the way you explain the bit offset and how it affects the size of the template to get the correct final size resonates! Had to help a buddy route out an opening for his Jessum lift today…grabbed the bushing and the bit, set up the correct size on my adjustable template and routed the rabbet…perfect fit! Thx and U da Man!
Short videos like this that help the novice to amateur woodworker develop more skills in making jigs are very useful. As much detail and close ups that you can pack in with those type of people looking on is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to delve into a skill that many gloss over Mr. Paulk! I especially appreciate how you show the difference in results between the two bit sizes from the same template. Keep up the great work and innovation! Cheers from KY!
Thanks for taking the time to slow down and provide a detailed explanation of template creation. For those that do this regularly it is simple, but newbies need a bit more direction to absorb the concept. Well Done Ron
I decided to skip the miter saw pre-pattern step and wing it. After hours of making awful, irregular cuts with a jigsaw, drill press, and 4" circular, I went back and made a perfect pre-pattern stencil on my miter saw in about 2 minutes and then cut a perfect stencil pattern with it. Next time I will trust the expert.
Great video, no waffling; just straight to the tutorial and explained simply in great detail so we can understand it. So many Utubers spend half their time waffling instead of getting on with the task in hand. This is one of the best presented tutorials I have seen focusing on the job in hand and getting on with it. Congratulations, an excellent job. This is the way to present a tutorial video.
I like your double template method. I tend to use my tablesaw and rip the width of the opening out of the middle of the plywood. This leaves me with 3 pieces. I then cut the middle one in half. Then I glue it all back together with the two pieces from the middle spread apart by the desired length of the cut-out. Always gives me accurate templates. Nice video.
New to bushings, etc and couldn't really get the point of it until I saw this and another video on the notion of offset and a 'circular fence'. Good job!
Great tips as always.....I have really made a difference in my business using your methods....im in the process of building your benches and cradles/carts.....plans are very easy to read and follow
This was really good, after watching it twice I made my own template for 4" x 1.5" openings using the mitre saw technique. It was much easier, faster and better than the usual drill / jigsaw / file / sand technique. I don't actually need any 4" by 1.5" openings, but when I do it will be ready.
Thank you for going over your pattern making guidelines. A pattern to make a pattern to make the cut. :) I was thinking on making a simple 90 degree pattern than can be used to make one corner of the pattern piece, rotate and make another, and so on.
I’m a newbie and you just solved a hard problem for me in much better way. I was literally trying to cut exactly the same sized rectangles in pairs through 3/4” birch plywood. I tried everything from plunging in with a jigsaw using a template to drilling 1.5” holes and connecting them with a jigsaw. This looks way more accurate and repeatable. Thank you!
Hey Ron, You sure got me on the pattern program a while ago. One tip I can pass on to others about patterns, use Masonite. Then I took my guide bushing and cut down the height. Why? Because plunge routers don't have infinite depth (z-travel). So using Masonite and a cut down bushing allows you to have greater travel without overextending the tool. Not to mention, the Masonite templates are nice and thin and flat and store rather nicely. I use white charcoal pencil for marking them up.
Ron… I’ve been using my routers to do cut like this for a couple of years but always struggled with control and felt very unsure of what I was doing. I just watched this video more closely and picked up what I was doing wrong. THANK YOU so much for sharing freely.
After reading your comment, I would guess you were routing to the wrong direction? If I have not used a router in a while, I always have to stop and think for a second which way to go. Outside pattern to the right, inside to the left. I use to struggle in the beginning even with that because your perspective also plays a roll 😂. Anyway, Ron is great for sharing his knowledge
Love the video and I have done a lot of pattern routing but I am always looking to do things better. I thought the "rough" template made on the miter saw is an A+ where it will work. what i will mention, like with CNC, if you are doing a large opening say 5" diameter (or about 125mm for you Ron) don't cut all the way through. Leave a little material so the central portion doesn't get loose and get tossed by the router. A second or two with a jig saw to free it and then use the router to finish.
Excellent video, we thank you very much for taking the time to teach us such important things as these. We appreciate your effort and dedication. I have subscribed to your channel...
Just bought a Makita 16mm guide bush so I can have a go at trying for the first times on a second hand 1/4 router. Together with your video I can now work things out. Very helpful but time will tell. It is not as easy as you make it out though but thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to slow down and provide a detailed explanation of template creation. Ron, why 2 patterns, why not just cut out the template needed on the miter saw and skip the second one?
I have been coveting your benches for years. Just getting my woodshop back FINALLY... I am ready to play! You made my day with this. EXACTLY what I need.... NOW... I have a question I cannot find anywhere.... my item(s) have a slight curve that I want a similar hole. How do I work on it with the curve already done? Thanks for being AMAZING!
I am starting the smart bench as soon as I feel like I have collected enough knowledge about using your patterns. you recommend using spiral up cut bits which leave a bit of tear out on the top of the cut. In your opinion would a down cut bit be better? or do you cut from the bottom of the plywood to leave the finish side clean? Great videos and plans. I'm stoked to start the build and use the bench. Thanks a bunch.
Hey Ron - thanks this is what I've been looking for. I have a router, but not plunge router. And I have tabletop router table. How would I attached the template to my work for cutting hole on the table router? Thanks again for the great video.
Why not just use a pattern made on the miter saw? On my project I will need 15 patterns, all different sizes. I plan to just make the quickie patterns (EXCELLENT TIP!).
Thank you for the detailed video. I have torn up a few guides not leaving enough gap. I should have had more common sense. In regards to your new mobile work bench, have you tied storing it vertically?
Any suggestions or tips on centering the router sub base that holds the bushing? I have tried using the plastic cone that came with my dw618 but it is very finicky. Thank you for all you do.
Dutchman router kits come with a straight, non-cutting bit that has the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing collar. This allows for concentric alignment (required for creating a tight Dutchman). After you’ve installed the aligned bushing collar, install the cutting router bit. Maybe something similar exists for your bushing set? But, you can’t underestimate the play you get from not using plunge routers.
Festool makes an excellent centering mandrel. And if you have the OF1400 and if you're having a problem getting it centered I have a video showing how I fixed the engineering defect for that router.
Great video. New to using a router. I need to plunge into wood and route a rectangle box approximately 1.5 in deep. Would this approach work for something that deep?
I'm sure you figured this out a month ago, but the key is to use a thin pattern guide. I used a 1/4" piece of plexiglass and it worked well for cutting a side handle into a cutting board. I couldn't cut very deep with my bits and 3/4" plywood as the guide.
Just ran into a hitch! On my cordless, with the 1/4” bit, I noticed something was off. After close inspection I noticed that the bit had cut through the guide bushing! The result was a fair amount of damage to a couple of the holes on my pattern. I think I can patch up my pattern, however, are there any tips to avoid this problem in the future? Maybe I’m using too much pressure? Maybe I’m taking too big of a pass? I usually try to take 18 mm in 3 passes. Should make it 4 passes instead? In the future I’m definitely going to use my bigger router with the 1/2” bit everywhere I can and only use the smaller one when I must. Please tell me I’m not the only person to ever burn through a guide bushing!!
I had similar problem when I first started out with guide bushing. 3/8” OD with 1/4” spiral upcut and I never centered the router plate. The guide bushing fit tight in the router plate but the bit was catching the edge of brass bushing. Instead of loosening the router plate screws and centering the bushing/plate with the bit, I just turned on my router and plunged down slowly, cutting about a 16th of the brass away. So now the bit wasnt centered in the bushing and my patterns were all off slightly depending on which way I held the router in reference to the edge of what I was cutting. Lol Live and learn!!
Thank you for making this video and I am working on building my own Smart Big Bench. I'm curious about the inner diameter of the 5/8" guide bushings you use. All of the 5/8" bushings I can find seem to have a 17/31" inner diameter. I tried this with my DEWALT 618 router and it chewed up the bushing and chipped the bit. Are you using bushings with a larger inner diameter? I am new to woodworking so it is possible I am doing something wrong.
Yes and no. I have covered this topic a few times over the years. Using a pattern bit will work, but it can damage the template if extreme care isn't taken. It is best to use a bushing and an up-cut spiral bit. This approach is easier, provides a better finish, and eliminates the chance of damaging the template.
Thanks voor the video. One question: why aren’t you using router bits with ball bearings on the top? Then you don’t need a bushing anymore. It’s more accurate because you don’t have to account for the difference between the bushing and the router bit. Also, there’s less play with a ball bearing bit. I’ve used bushings, but since I’ve started to use ball bearing bits, I don’t look back anymore. And you only need e few ball bearing bits of different sizes.
Agree, unless there is a special case, this is the best method. I use a ball race router bit to make my MFT 20mm holes; this is extremely accurate (~.05mm on diameter). I do not believe a bushing could be located on a router that accurately. It also means you can change bit size to improve how tight the corners go. No setup issues. Plus, you can use an existing hole to copy to another place.
Without changing the bit what pattern bit can make a shallow mortise 1/8" deep and another that is 1" deep using the same 1/2" thick pattern? With a guide bushing, you can use a bit that has a long cutter length to make both shallow and deep cuts.
Hi Marc, I have answered this question so many times. There are at least 12 reasons that I choose bushing over a bearing. I do have many bearing pattern bits and in a few use cases I use them, but 90% bushing is superior. Search the channel for pattern routing and you will find at least a dozen videos.😎🤙
I probably use pattern bits with bearings more so than guide bushings, but I've also wrecked plenty of boards when a guide bushing would have prevented any damage.
Why didn't you make your permanent pattern using the same miter saw technique? I know it's ugly, but seems like making two patterns is unnecessary. Or am I missing something?
It appears that the temporary pattern wouldn't hold up to day to day use, but is fine for a few uses. I wouldn't have thought to use a miter saw to create a limited lifespan pattern and it is much faster than drilling the corners and using a jig saw to cut the sides.
Hi Ron If the difference (gap) between your router bit and your bushing is 1/8”, then wouldn’t that mean that your template needs to 1/4” wider and taller, not 1/8”?My logic being that 1/8” all around equals 1/4”
No, that 1/8" difference between the router bit and bushing amounts to 1/16" offset from each edge, so 1/8" total offset. Using your logic, it's not 1/8" all around, just 1/8" bigger than the bit diameter.
No, but once I didn't have the threaded lock ring tight enough. It came off while routing and it got chewed up. It still works but now when I thread it on it's like sand paper. D'oh!
I had this happen when I neglected to use the "wave washer" to secure the lock ring to the bushing. The lock ring vibrated loose and the bushing engaged the spinning bit. Not a fun experience. Luckily, I was able to grind the chewed up end of the bushing shorter until what remained was undamaged yet long enough to work. I was glad that I always rout with a finger above the "off" switch.
1. Why not use the miter saw to make the final guide? Just doesn’t look as clean? 2. Why it use a bushing and a router bit of the same size? (Nvm was thinking of a pattern bit, your following video why not to get a CNC has a great explanation)
I really appreciate these short videos. I'm retired now, but started wood working and contracting in the early seventies. We did not have the internet then so it was necessary to discover these tips myself. Sure wish access to all this information had been so easily available then. I even had a machinist make me a number of interchangeable bits and drills for my electric drill to save time. I was not bright enough to get a patent on the idea, just had it made for my own use. Makes me wonder how many thousands of hours Ron's ideas have saved us all.
I woke up this morning preparing to cut 1/2” drawer dividers for a bathroom vanity project and so was thrilled to see the tutorial on templates. The quick and dirty on the chop saw is brilliant! Big fan for last 5 years of everything Paulk Smart! Thank you!
Great to hear😎🤙
Brilliant video Ron....I've spent hours drilling, sawing and sanding to make cut out templates...I can't believe that it never occurred to me to use my mitre saw to make a simple template to produce the precise one. This is the point where I slap myself on the head and say "doh." This is why your channel is so good..you learn something new every time that subscription bell goes 'ping'.
I have a permanent knot on my head from slapping myself. My channel is really about telling you what I have learned from decades of mistakes in hopes the Smart Woodshop family can skip wasting time and material. Plus impress their clients especially if the client is your wife.😎🤙
The use of your miter saw to make the temp pattern is a terrific tip, thank you.
Only works with a sliding miter saw though, right?
Template inception
Hi Ron.
Mark from South Africa.
I bought your original plan many years back. The workbench formed the foundation of my workshop. I spent hundreds of wonderful hours building stuff on it.
I came back and viewed your new material, tips, and of course your Smart solutions.
I bought everything. Been going through your work methodology. Makes so much sense.
I'm going to use your plans to totally redo my 3 car garage workshop at home.
I will share my experience with you.
Btw. You've done an extraordinary job of sharing your information and time learned skills. I appreciate your work.
Thank You.
Thank You, Ron😎🤙
Here is a tip, I found that left overs of laminated flooring make great material for templates. And the price is right.
and repurposing is always good. Reduce, Reuse, Recycle in that order. Good for your pocket book and the planet.😎🤙
Hey Ron! I know this video is about 2 years old but it is still my “go to” for a refresher on how to use a router with template bushings. Something about the way you explain the bit offset and how it affects the size of the template to get the correct final size resonates! Had to help a buddy route out an opening for his Jessum lift today…grabbed the bushing and the bit, set up the correct size on my adjustable template and routed the rabbet…perfect fit! Thx and U da Man!
Short videos like this that help the novice to amateur woodworker develop more skills in making jigs are very useful. As much detail and close ups that you can pack in with those type of people looking on is appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to delve into a skill that many gloss over Mr. Paulk! I especially appreciate how you show the difference in results between the two bit sizes from the same template. Keep up the great work and innovation! Cheers from KY!
😎🤙
Thanks for taking the time to slow down and provide a detailed explanation of template creation. For those that do this regularly it is simple, but newbies need a bit more direction to absorb the concept. Well Done Ron
Thank You
I decided to skip the miter saw pre-pattern step and wing it. After hours of making awful, irregular cuts with a jigsaw, drill press, and 4" circular, I went back and made a perfect pre-pattern stencil on my miter saw in about 2 minutes and then cut a perfect stencil pattern with it.
Next time I will trust the expert.
I know! I have made all of the mistakes myself. 😎🤙
Great video, no waffling; just straight to the tutorial and explained simply in great detail so we can understand it. So many Utubers spend half their time waffling instead of getting on with the task in hand. This is one of the best presented tutorials I have seen focusing on the job in hand and getting on with it. Congratulations, an excellent job. This is the way to present a tutorial video.
No waffling yes but 20 seconds into the video and he’s trying to sell you plans and workbenches lol
Cheers, the pattern to make the pattern has taught me more efficiency! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
I like your double template method. I tend to use my tablesaw and rip the width of the opening out of the middle of the plywood. This leaves me with 3 pieces. I then cut the middle one in half. Then I glue it all back together with the two pieces from the middle spread apart by the desired length of the cut-out. Always gives me accurate templates. Nice video.
New to bushings, etc and couldn't really get the point of it until I saw this and another video on the notion of offset and a 'circular fence'. Good job!
Great tips as always.....I have really made a difference in my business using your methods....im in the process of building your benches and cradles/carts.....plans are very easy to read and follow
This was really good, after watching it twice I made my own template for 4" x 1.5" openings using the mitre saw technique. It was much easier, faster and better than the usual drill / jigsaw / file / sand technique. I don't actually need any 4" by 1.5" openings, but when I do it will be ready.
Thank you for going over your pattern making guidelines.
A pattern to make a pattern to make the cut. :)
I was thinking on making a simple 90 degree pattern than can be used to make one corner of the pattern piece, rotate and make another, and so on.
I really like the way he explains everything so clearly.
Hi I work with Metric but your methodology is the key . thanks man really awesome
I'm a first time router owner, and I was wondering what the template thingy was for. Now I know! Thank you.
Thanks so much Ron! Your designs, along with the companion videos are so helpful. Please tell Chris thank you, as well! - BB
Hi Brent, nice talking with you today 😎🤙
Very concise and easy to grasp tutorial on pattern routing! Thanks!
Thanks sir for the video now I understand how guide bushings work.
I’m a newbie and you just solved a hard problem for me in much better way. I was literally trying to cut exactly the same sized rectangles in pairs through 3/4” birch plywood. I tried everything from plunging in with a jigsaw using a template to drilling 1.5” holes and connecting them with a jigsaw. This looks way more accurate and repeatable. Thank you!
Hey Ron, You sure got me on the pattern program a while ago. One tip I can pass on to others about patterns, use Masonite. Then I took my guide bushing and cut down the height. Why? Because plunge routers don't have infinite depth (z-travel). So using Masonite and a cut down bushing allows you to have greater travel without overextending the tool. Not to mention, the Masonite templates are nice and thin and flat and store rather nicely. I use white charcoal pencil for marking them up.
Good advise
Thank you for clarifying routers and templates.
You explain things very well, Ron. Thanks for making these and please continue!
Ditto to Trak Atak. Your teaching method is most excellent. Thanks a Heap!
Glad to hear that!
Awesome video!! Super helpful. Getting ready to build out my trailer with your plans....🤞
Ron… I’ve been using my routers to do cut like this for a couple of years but always struggled with control and felt very unsure of what I was doing. I just watched this video more closely and picked up what I was doing wrong.
THANK YOU so much for sharing freely.
After reading your comment, I would guess you were routing to the wrong direction? If I have not used a router in a while, I always have to stop and think for a second which way to go. Outside pattern to the right, inside to the left. I use to struggle in the beginning even with that because your perspective also plays a roll 😂.
Anyway, Ron is great for sharing his knowledge
Loved this thanks . I saw many before this one helped I look forward to learning more from your channel Paul. 🙏😁
Thank you very much ,very informative video.
You look like Robert Redford😂
For sure 😊
Great video just what i was looking for the template idea will save so much time!
I'd like to see a lot more of these videos.
Thanks for the video. I must be dense in the head, watching your other videos I did not understand. This video cleared that up, saving it for future.
Thank you for sharing! Excellent demo and clear explanation! The mitre saw is definitely the easiest method to make the initial template!👍🏻
Love the video and I have done a lot of pattern routing but I am always looking to do things better. I thought the "rough" template made on the miter saw is an A+ where it will work. what i will mention, like with CNC, if you are doing a large opening say 5" diameter (or about 125mm for you Ron) don't cut all the way through. Leave a little material so the central portion doesn't get loose and get tossed by the router. A second or two with a jig saw to free it and then use the router to finish.
Thanks!
Excellent video, we thank you very much for taking the time to teach us such important things as these. We appreciate your effort and dedication. I have subscribed to your channel...
Very clear explanation and some good tips. Thanks Ron!
Just bought a Makita 16mm guide bush so I can have a go at trying for the first times on a second hand 1/4 router. Together with your video I can now work things out. Very helpful but time will tell. It is not as easy as you make it out though but thanks.
Very well done. I sure do appreciate your ideas and your way of explaining the process. Thank you
I was trying to figure out what you meant by using a miter saw.
Then you made my head explode!
Excellent content here! I subscribed. I also plan to build your latest Paulk Smart Bench and Total Station. Keep em coming. Very impressive.
Thanks! I learned something new today. BTW Owen Wilson call, he says he wants his swagger back. 😁
Thanks for taking the time to slow down and provide a detailed explanation of template creation.
Ron, why 2 patterns, why not just cut out the template needed on the miter saw and skip the second one?
When I need a one time pattern, that is exactly what I do. When I make a pattern to keep around, I prefer to make them clean with no over cuts.
Great tip/technique! Thanks Ron!
I have been coveting your benches for years. Just getting my woodshop back FINALLY... I am ready to play! You made my day with this. EXACTLY what I need....
NOW... I have a question I cannot find anywhere.... my item(s) have a slight curve that I want a similar hole. How do I work on it with the curve already done?
Thanks for being AMAZING!
The perfect video for what I was looking to learn. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This is exactly the info I needed! Thank you!
Learning Took Place Today.
Appreciated
Very well done, informative video, Thanks for posting!
Excellent video - very inspiring!
You are an excellent teacher !!
Great video Ron, finally someone that explains it well. Is there anyway I can see a close up of router bits?
A template to make the template - this is the step I was missing! Fantastic!
Enjoy your videos. But this one with imperial measurement references drove me insane. Would love a re dubbed version using millimeters
Great explanation Thank you
Excellent clear instruction
Well explained. Also, that sacrifice board below on your table, you can make a Star Wars city out of that. :)
I am starting the smart bench as soon as I feel like I have collected enough knowledge about using your patterns. you recommend using spiral up cut bits which leave a bit of tear out on the top of the cut. In your opinion would a down cut bit be better? or do you cut from the bottom of the plywood to leave the finish side clean? Great videos and plans. I'm stoked to start the build and use the bench. Thanks a bunch.
I use upcut and occasion up/down. Any fuzz is gone when I run the chamfer bit. A quality ½" spiral upcut should be good enough.
Now I understand little "bit" more.
That was a terrific Tip.
😎🤙
Thank you for the video!!! I'm looking to do the same thing.
I needed this video last week 😭
Excellent video
Great vídeo and tips!!
Great tip! Thanks Ron!
Excellent video thank you sir
Hey Ron - thanks this is what I've been looking for. I have a router, but not plunge router. And I have tabletop router table. How would I attached the template to my work for cutting hole on the table router? Thanks again for the great video.
BRO if Robert Redford and Owen Wilson were mashed together...it would be you!
Why not just use a pattern made on the miter saw? On my project I will need 15 patterns, all different sizes. I plan to just make the quickie patterns (EXCELLENT TIP!).
Ron,
What’s the best way to mortise out a deadbolt strike plate after the door is installed?
Do you always use a bush if you were using a Jig to say router door for hinge
Thank you for the detailed video. I have torn up a few guides not leaving enough gap. I should have had more common sense. In regards to your new mobile work bench, have you tied storing it vertically?
👍
Good morning!
Thanks for this Ron!!!!
Any suggestions or tips on centering the router sub base that holds the bushing? I have tried using the plastic cone that came with my dw618 but it is very finicky.
Thank you for all you do.
Dutchman router kits come with a straight, non-cutting bit that has the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing collar. This allows for concentric alignment (required for creating a tight Dutchman). After you’ve installed the aligned bushing collar, install the cutting router bit. Maybe something similar exists for your bushing set? But, you can’t underestimate the play you get from not using plunge routers.
@@patrickniedermeyer2112 That makes perfect sense to me but for some reason I can not find a kit with what you speak of.
Festool makes an excellent centering mandrel. And if you have the OF1400 and if you're having a problem getting it centered I have a video showing how I fixed the engineering defect for that router.
Great video. New to using a router. I need to plunge into wood and route a rectangle box approximately 1.5 in deep. Would this approach work for something that deep?
I'm sure you figured this out a month ago, but the key is to use a thin pattern guide. I used a 1/4" piece of plexiglass and it worked well for cutting a side handle into a cutting board. I couldn't cut very deep with my bits and 3/4" plywood as the guide.
Have you used anything like the Festool MFS or similar adjustable template jigs? I wish the MFS was still available in the US
Just ran into a hitch! On my cordless, with the 1/4” bit, I noticed something was off. After close inspection I noticed that the bit had cut through the guide bushing! The result was a fair amount of damage to a couple of the holes on my pattern. I think I can patch up my pattern, however, are there any tips to avoid this problem in the future? Maybe I’m using too much pressure? Maybe I’m taking too big of a pass? I usually try to take 18 mm in 3 passes. Should make it 4 passes instead? In the future I’m definitely going to use my bigger router with the 1/2” bit everywhere I can and only use the smaller one when I must. Please tell me I’m not the only person to ever burn through a guide bushing!!
I had similar problem when I first started out with guide bushing. 3/8” OD with 1/4” spiral upcut and I never centered the router plate. The guide bushing fit tight in the router plate but the bit was catching the edge of brass bushing. Instead of loosening the router plate screws and centering the bushing/plate with the bit, I just turned on my router and plunged down slowly, cutting about a 16th of the brass away. So now the bit wasnt centered in the bushing and my patterns were all off slightly depending on which way I held the router in reference to the edge of what I was cutting. Lol
Live and learn!!
Where is that dust mask located in your store?
What is the preferred thickness of material you like to use when making templates?
12mm😎🤙
So, if you are using a pattern to cut around instead of a hole, would you make the pattern 1/8” smaller all the way around to account for the bushing?
I reckon so.
there are patterns you wont be capable of doing with only one template. But for rectangles , squares and circles yes
Thank you for making this video and I am working on building my own Smart Big Bench. I'm curious about the inner diameter of the 5/8" guide bushings you use. All of the 5/8" bushings I can find seem to have a 17/31" inner diameter. I tried this with my DEWALT 618 router and it chewed up the bushing and chipped the bit. Are you using bushings with a larger inner diameter? I am new to woodworking so it is possible I am doing something wrong.
As long as the bit and bushings are matched they will not touch. I have never had a bit come in contact with a bushing.
One reason it could be hitting the bushing is because you did not center the bushing with a centering cone on the router.
Newbie here. As long as you're using a template on top, wouldn't a simple flush trim bit do the job?
Yes and no. I have covered this topic a few times over the years. Using a pattern bit will work, but it can damage the template if extreme care isn't taken. It is best to use a bushing and an up-cut spiral bit. This approach is easier, provides a better finish, and eliminates the chance of damaging the template.
@@TheSmartWoodshop Many thanks for the nuance...
Thanks voor the video. One question: why aren’t you using router bits with ball bearings on the top? Then you don’t need a bushing anymore. It’s more accurate because you don’t have to account for the difference between the bushing and the router bit. Also, there’s less play with a ball bearing bit.
I’ve used bushings, but since I’ve started to use ball bearing bits, I don’t look back anymore. And you only need e few ball bearing bits of different sizes.
Agree, unless there is a special case, this is the best method. I use a ball race router bit to make my MFT 20mm holes; this is extremely accurate (~.05mm on diameter). I do not believe a bushing could be located on a router that accurately.
It also means you can change bit size to improve how tight the corners go. No setup issues.
Plus, you can use an existing hole to copy to another place.
Without changing the bit what pattern bit can make a shallow mortise 1/8" deep and another that is 1" deep using the same 1/2" thick pattern? With a guide bushing, you can use a bit that has a long cutter length to make both shallow and deep cuts.
Hi Marc, I have answered this question so many times. There are at least 12 reasons that I choose bushing over a bearing. I do have many bearing pattern bits and in a few use cases I use them, but 90% bushing is superior. Search the channel for pattern routing and you will find at least a dozen videos.😎🤙
I probably use pattern bits with bearings more so than guide bushings, but I've also wrecked plenty of boards when a guide bushing would have prevented any damage.
@@ThekiBoran Right! Interesting! Thanks for answering.
Brilliant, thank you!
Why didn't you make your permanent pattern using the same miter saw technique? I know it's ugly, but seems like making two patterns is unnecessary. Or am I missing something?
It appears that the temporary pattern wouldn't hold up to day to day use, but is fine for a few uses. I wouldn't have thought to use a miter saw to create a limited lifespan pattern and it is much faster than drilling the corners and using a jig saw to cut the sides.
@@jamies8973 I need 15+ one time patterns, so will just make them on the miter saw.
Great stuff!
excellent, thanks....
Have you ever tried routing out for a Bestgle flush hardware ?
Hey robert redford no more films?.
Hi Ron
If the difference (gap) between your router bit and your bushing is 1/8”, then wouldn’t that mean that your template needs to 1/4” wider and taller, not 1/8”?My logic being that 1/8” all around equals 1/4”
No, that 1/8" difference between the router bit and bushing amounts to 1/16" offset from each edge, so 1/8" total offset. Using your logic, it's not 1/8" all around, just 1/8" bigger than the bit diameter.
Each edge is 1/2 the diameter difference. 5/8 - 1/2" = 1/8" /2= 1/16"
I had exactly the same thought, glad i scrolled down to read the response.
Nice video! Going to subscribe!
where can i find bushing for Milwaukee m18?
Have you ever chewed up a bushing with your bit after you have been using it for several cut outs?
No, but once I didn't have the threaded lock ring tight enough. It came off while routing and it got chewed up. It still works but now when I thread it on it's like sand paper. D'oh!
I had this happen when I neglected to use the "wave washer" to secure the lock ring to the bushing. The lock ring vibrated loose and the bushing engaged the spinning bit. Not a fun experience. Luckily, I was able to grind the chewed up end of the bushing shorter until what remained was undamaged yet long enough to work. I was glad that I always rout with a finger above the "off" switch.
1. Why not use the miter saw to make the final guide? Just doesn’t look as clean?
2. Why it use a bushing and a router bit of the same size? (Nvm was thinking of a pattern bit, your following video why not to get a CNC has a great explanation)
I wondered the same as your q1. The mitre saw approach is awesome, I think I’d be happy with that as my template
Brilliant !!!