Thanks for sharing, we played the dont two days in a row and got stuck around 125-150 up and then it starts to go back down. Hard to get past that mark. But its so odd, when we were playing numbers and the pass , 300-400 bucks would lose like in 30 mins because ppl would crap out. Its like the tables knows lol. Its def a grind to play the dont. The come out is the worst part like you said lol
When I play the don't pass line I have the dealer place $1 on ' ANY SEVEN" and I put $5 on the Don't Pass line. This way I don't get killed when a shooter rolls lots of seven's on the come-out roll . I only place odds on a 5 or 9 and no odds on a 4 or 10.
Wouldn't it be the better bet if you put full odds when the point becomes 4 or 10 because there's only 3 ways to make a 4 or 10 and 6 ways to make a 7.
I do the same thing when it comes to the 'don't pass line' and the 'any seven'. In many cases this bet combined turns out to be a push, but rather this than losing. ;)
Only $25 tables here in Detroit as well the F up part. However the good part it don't really matter what the table min is $5 or $10 or $50. When playing with strategies & different systems it's all the same. Only thing different is the betting amount size higher or lower.
Is there a mathematical advantage to a $100 Don't Pass bet and a $200 Lay bet on the 4, for the come out roll only. (As soon as a point is established, you turn the Lay bet off.)
You can't turn a lay bet off, only take it down (the casino should return your $5 commission when you come down). As far as a mathematical advantage, no. You have a 6 ways for that lay to win $95 (you paid the $5 vig), and 3 ways to lose your $200, so you are a 2-1 favorite. Over time, mathematically, that means you will average out to winning $190 (95 twice) for every one time you lose $200. That doesn't mean it isn't a viable strategy, at times. All things in dice are streaky in the short term, it's only over time that the math smooths out. I've seen people play that and do well, but 19 our of 20 players get too greedy and keep playing it when they should have walked away a decent winner, until they lose everything.
Modified negative progressions need a full or half parlay after each first win. If you get stuck in alternating wins & losses, lead with a higher bet, then regress. Just stop betting if on a loss jag, stay on one side like the man says.
Depends on the number. 4 and 10 pay half, 5 and 9 pay 2 for every 3, 6 and 8 pay 5 for every 6. While some people don't like being paid less than they bet, it's true odds with no house edge, so it's no different than betting odds.
It just makes more sense to play the 4 or 10 or both from the buying or Lightside end of the table. Due to the 2X or double payout. Vs the 1/2 payout on the Lay bet or Darkside. Basically the same exact thing just going in two drastically different directions. One hit from a buy bet on 4 or 10. Is literally equivalent to two won lay bets on the same numbers. I just personally prefer the 1 hit with less $$ at risk.
Thanks for sharing, we played the dont two days in a row and got stuck around 125-150 up and then it starts to go back down. Hard to get past that mark. But its so odd, when we were playing numbers and the pass , 300-400 bucks would lose like in 30 mins because ppl would crap out. Its like the tables knows lol. Its def a grind to play the dont. The come out is the worst part like you said lol
The stern strategy, that is the name of your strategy.
When I play the don't pass line I have the dealer place $1 on ' ANY SEVEN" and I put $5 on the Don't Pass line. This way I don't get killed when a shooter rolls lots of seven's on the come-out roll
. I only place odds on a 5 or 9 and no odds on a 4 or 10.
Wouldn't it be the better bet if you put full odds when the point becomes 4 or 10 because there's only 3 ways to make a 4 or 10 and 6 ways to make a 7.
You can do some basic math to show you actually lose more by placing that $1 bet on come out rolls than you are protecting from the the 7.
I do the same thing when it comes to the 'don't pass line' and the 'any seven'. In many cases this bet combined turns out to be a push, but rather this than losing. ;)
I enjoy this camera angle thank you
In Philadelphia there are no $10 tables 15 and 25
Only $25 tables here in Detroit as well the F up part. However the good part it don't really matter what the table min is $5 or $10 or $50. When playing with strategies & different systems it's all the same. Only thing different is the betting amount size higher or lower.
Do u lay more money behind the don’t bet after a number comes out?
Is there a mathematical advantage to a $100 Don't Pass bet and a $200 Lay bet on the 4, for the come out roll only. (As soon as a point is established, you turn the Lay bet off.)
You can't turn a lay bet off, only take it down (the casino should return your $5 commission when you come down). As far as a mathematical advantage, no. You have a 6 ways for that lay to win $95 (you paid the $5 vig), and 3 ways to lose your $200, so you are a 2-1 favorite. Over time, mathematically, that means you will average out to winning $190 (95 twice) for every one time you lose $200.
That doesn't mean it isn't a viable strategy, at times. All things in dice are streaky in the short term, it's only over time that the math smooths out. I've seen people play that and do well, but 19 our of 20 players get too greedy and keep playing it when they should have walked away a decent winner, until they lose everything.
@@sincityliving1260 Have you made any videos showing this concept of combining a Don't Pass bet with a Lay bet on the come out roll?
less talky more rolly
They don't roll at all, actually. Not what they're about.
Modified negative progressions need a full or half parlay after each first win. If you get stuck in alternating wins & losses, lead with a higher bet, then regress. Just stop betting if on a loss jag, stay on one side like the man says.
where do you guys work
It’s not good to lay right u don’t get what u lay
You get 1/2 what you lay
Depends on the number. 4 and 10 pay half, 5 and 9 pay 2 for every 3, 6 and 8 pay 5 for every 6. While some people don't like being paid less than they bet, it's true odds with no house edge, so it's no different than betting odds.
It just makes more sense to play the 4 or 10 or both from the buying or Lightside end of the table. Due to the 2X or double payout. Vs the 1/2 payout on the Lay bet or Darkside. Basically the same exact thing just going in two drastically different directions. One hit from a buy bet on 4 or 10. Is literally equivalent to two won lay bets on the same numbers. I just personally prefer the 1 hit with less $$ at risk.
20 on pass and 10 on don't. Then odds on don't once point is set
Does this work for you? Profitable??