The fan cant be in a living space your right but you are allowed to place it in attic space in garage where no living space is below, the red rings are fire rings and in Minnesota if you exit the pipe into the garage via the basement you much use a fire ring to prevent a garage fire for spreading into the house. They expand and seal the joint in case of garage fire, they are code in Minnesota
Thank you very much. I almost purchased a house in NJ with the radon pump and I thought it was a sealed sump pump to remove water. Your video was very informative.
Actually I called the State of Minnesota and our county inspector and there is no set code on the piping so what I used is fine and numerous installer use it as have seen several of these now installed, it doesnt have to be Schedule 40 at all, but hey Schedule 40 is very nice just pricer. Yes you can use a soft bend elbows to get better flow but currently our has our level at most of the year 0.1 and in rainy season about .6 so we have plenty of flow with this large and pretty quiet fan. The sump lid we used is black and I love being able to see in it and having it sealed just means less leaking and better suction but you dont have to get different cover if you want, but we did for this cover is very nice.
Hi I noticed you didn't use the screws to attach the dome riser to the floor, you use some kind of silicone/glue thing. What did you use and how reliable it is rather than using screws or drilling down to the floor?
Can you use this lid with any sump pit? Have a house with 3 sump pumps and pits... Plumber saying old pits need to be ripped out and replaced with special air tight pit that gives a lip for thr gasket to seal the lid.... For $5400 (2 of the 3 pumps have to be converted to submersible.) Wondering why i cant just put in some submersibles in my existing pits amd use this lid
Your right I sure it could free little ice on it, but if one monitors the indicator of air flow and watches the digital radon meter weekly I doubt that will be issue especially after this year=)
Visiting my Mother In Law now. Brought my Radon Monitor and shows over 33! She's 90 years old and has lived in the same house for over 32 years so She won't let me install a mitigation system since it never harmed her. Hopefully spending a week here doesn't kill me and my Wife.
It's obviously best to check all local codes and hire, if able, a licensed radon contractor to install these systems to prevent issues like radon leaking back into the home, flooding and/or other issues. But if done right it can be a DIY project with help via contractors. Take your time, get estimates, learn about the problem and make educated choices. Here are some links we found helpful: www.who.int/ionizing_radiation/env/radon/en/ www.epa.gov/radon/ www.health.ny.gov/environmental/radiological/radon/radon.htm
Thanks so much for fast reply brother. This is a huge help to my family and I. Buyting a house reading a 4.7. Is that a Fantech motor and if so what series?
Thank you for this video. I would like to install the same device on my sump pump. Q1> What is the adhesive you have used? Q2> How is the quality of the adhesive after two more years? Thank you
codyq0987 I used elastomer silicone by DAP, www.grainger.com/product/5UFP5?gclid=CJmB6MOGocUCFQuraQodv6EA1A&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAC-_-Adhesives,%20Sealants%20and%20Tape-_-Caulks-_-5UFP5&ef_id=U2vDygAABFE6DAJI:20150501171900:s
ReefDVMs Thank you for the update. Based on video @08:31, you said you are using PL 300 to seal the dome. I may misunderstood your points. Thank you again.
codyq0987 Sorry for the confusion I thought you were asking about the cover and window adhesive which is DAP. Your asking about the construction PL300 that we used to make the cover seal to the concrete and that is PL300 is also doing well, I have no issues with it
I have a couple questions, is the whole sump cover process only to make it so it's air tight? it seemed like that took the most time. and how did you pick that area to drill the hole in the cement? is that the only point where the suction for radon is being applied?
Yes the only point of suction is there where you hit the draintile, since we build the house we had idea where it was from the wall and took 6 inch drill bit and drilled for it, once you get through the floor you can move ground to feel for the draintile somewhat
Great vid! I have a pre exsist radon system. I am installing a sump a few ft from it. I don’t have any drain tile sys. How do I vent the lid? Do I T into the radon pipe just a few ft away? I have water in the pit - we have flooding in area now - and I can hear the radon gurgling into my partially dug pit.
This may be a dumb question, but how did you connect the PVC pipe to the sump pump before fastening down the cover? It seems like the only way to do that is to take the pump out of the water, connect it, and then lower it down into the water while it's attached to the cover. Or is there some type of connector that I don't know about?
+transistor311 we actually installed the pump and we have disconnect splice about 12 inches above the cover in the pvc, so you unbolt the covers top, undue the splice in the pvc and then lift the cover off the pcv and you have access to the pump and about 3 feet of pvc going into it. When installing the pump you attach the pvc and set the pump in the basket then slide the cover top over the pvc and bolt down and reconnect the splice in the pvc. The splice is a rubber coupler with two stainless steel clamps that screw down to tighten it
+ReefDVMs Ok, that makes sense. I thought that the hole in the cover was likely caulked around the PVC to make it more airtight, but if you can just lift the cover off the PVC, that would make things a lot easier. Thanks for your reply.
Question: Why didn't you take the easier (and maybe more effective) route and just install the radon mitigation system into the existing sump pump well instead of drilling another hole in the cement floor? This is the way my system was installed by a local company specializing in radon systems. Brought my pCi/L from 5.5 to 1.0
yes you can vent out you sump basket but in our case the sump basket was below the kitchen and kids bedrooms which didnt allow easy roof access in our area so we found the drain tile line in the laundry room and that gave easy access to the garage roof to install for better cosmetics
I'm confused. If a sump pump pumps water out, then a vent is needed to let air in to prevent a vacuum. If the radon mitigation sucks air up and out, how can it let air in to prevent the vacuum on the sump?
4.5 and 5.4 is hardly cause for a negative pressure system. Caulking and sealing cracks plus the new sump pit lid would have resulted in a lowered or even total elimination of any “harmful” radon byproduct levels.
Hi I am planning on putting in a radon mitigation system and wanted to ask a question. I have a 1750 sq ft basement divided into two rooms. It has a aircon and heating system but is rarely used. If I out in a system how many vent pipe do I need to come up from under the slab?
Piping should be schedule 40, not thin drain pipe and with regular sweeps on fittings to improve air flow, not short 90's. The sump cover is solid black, not able to see in it to know whats going on. Clamps on basement wall not sturdy enough. Fan used is a high energy use fan and quite loud. Kozy Kollar looks good though. Also, what the customer had for a sump lid was fine, easier to get off than unbolting lid in an emergency.
Sch 40 pipe is not necessary. It has no effect on the radon levels. I get that it's stronger, but definitely not necessary. Kozy Kollars have leaked for us in the past when installed correctly. They are overpriced and hold no guarantee.
Because of your video, I also purchased a Jackel sump pump cover. Very well built and does a great job of keeping noises, smells, and of course, radon down. th-cam.com/video/zK5y7tdjCXQ/w-d-xo.html
Radon is radiation. Homeowners may install radon mitigation themselves. For your safety and the safety of others, please refer to EPA radon mitigation system installation guidelines if you are doing the work yourself. Sealing slabs and caulking cracks is not considered a successful stand-alone mitigation strategy by the EPA. If you are hiring someone to install a radon mitigation system in your home, please know that many states require radon mitigators to be trained and licensed by the state's Department of Health. Contact your state's Dept of Health for more information.
I just feel like the only radon you are going to suck out is that 4" diameter circle you drilled. Its not going to magically suck radon gas from under & theew the concrete... you would need several under concrete tunnels that expose the dirt to suck radon gas from. This radon is a racket. A governor made economy booster to create jobs for people.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
I assume that we need to place the intake as near the center of the basement? Or not required?
The fan cant be in a living space your right but you are allowed to place it in attic space in garage where no living space is below, the red rings are fire rings and in Minnesota if you exit the pipe into the garage via the basement you much use a fire ring to prevent a garage fire for spreading into the house. They expand and seal the joint in case of garage fire, they are code in Minnesota
Thank you very much. I almost purchased a house in NJ with the radon pump and I thought it was a sealed sump pump to remove water. Your video was very informative.
Actually I called the State of Minnesota and our county inspector and there is no set code on the piping so what I used is fine and numerous installer use it as have seen several of these now installed, it doesnt have to be Schedule 40 at all, but hey Schedule 40 is very nice just pricer. Yes you can use a soft bend elbows to get better flow but currently our has our level at most of the year 0.1 and in rainy season about .6 so we have plenty of flow with this large and pretty quiet fan. The sump lid we used is black and I love being able to see in it and having it sealed just means less leaking and better suction but you dont have to get different cover if you want, but we did for this cover is very nice.
Chris our current Radon level is 0.2, it has gone on the meter as high as 0.5 after a large rain this summer and normally is about 0.2
I know this is old but do you know what the levels were before installing the system?
thank you for the video. My question is: I have two sump pump, can I connect both sump pump to one radon fan?
Hi I noticed you didn't use the screws to attach the dome riser to the floor, you use some kind of silicone/glue thing. What did you use and how reliable it is rather than using screws or drilling down to the floor?
+TheLeaderGuy We used industrial grade pl400 to attach to concrete been solid ever since
Can you use this lid with any sump pit? Have a house with 3 sump pumps and pits... Plumber saying old pits need to be ripped out and replaced with special air tight pit that gives a lip for thr gasket to seal the lid.... For $5400 (2 of the 3 pumps have to be converted to submersible.) Wondering why i cant just put in some submersibles in my existing pits amd use this lid
Your right I sure it could free little ice on it, but if one monitors the indicator of air flow and watches the digital radon meter weekly I doubt that will be issue especially after this year=)
What radon fan did you use?
Doesn't the sump.pump well needs a vent ?
Where can I get my paws on one of those cool covers? They are slick as hell!
menards carries them I think still
Visiting my Mother In Law now. Brought my Radon Monitor and shows over 33! She's 90 years old and has lived in the same house for over 32 years so She won't let me install a mitigation system since it never harmed her. Hopefully spending a week here doesn't kill me and my Wife.
It's obviously best to check all local codes and hire, if able, a licensed radon contractor to install these systems to prevent issues like radon leaking back into the home, flooding and/or other issues. But if done right it can be a DIY project with help via contractors. Take your time, get estimates, learn about the problem and make educated choices.
Here are some links we found helpful:
www.who.int/ionizing_radiation/env/radon/en/
www.epa.gov/radon/
www.health.ny.gov/environmental/radiological/radon/radon.htm
Can you share: cost for the radon test. Did you use a DIY kit or a company that comes in and takes the readings? Thanks in Advance
Deb Belcore So radon test kit is 10$ each and fine to use, most commercial companys use similar...the electrical sensor ones are about 100$
ReefDVMs The electronic sensor ones are over $250 on ebay and amazon.
Thanks so much for fast reply brother. This is a huge help to my family and I. Buyting a house reading a 4.7. Is that a Fantech motor and if so what series?
kozy kollar for roofs, if you search them they are for sale even online I think. They are used on commercial building a lot
Thank you for this video. I would like to install the same device on my sump pump. Q1> What is the adhesive you have used? Q2> How is the quality of the adhesive after two more years? Thank you
codyq0987 I used elastomer silicone by DAP,
www.grainger.com/product/5UFP5?gclid=CJmB6MOGocUCFQuraQodv6EA1A&cm_mmc=PPC:GOOGLEPLAC-_-Adhesives,%20Sealants%20and%20Tape-_-Caulks-_-5UFP5&ef_id=U2vDygAABFE6DAJI:20150501171900:s
ReefDVMs been no issues, no leaks and i test the area bi year for radon still
ReefDVMs Thank you for the update. Based on video @08:31, you said you are using PL 300 to seal the dome. I may misunderstood your points. Thank you again.
codyq0987 Sorry for the confusion I thought you were asking about the cover and window adhesive which is DAP. Your asking about the construction PL300 that we used to make the cover seal to the concrete and that is PL300 is also doing well, I have no issues with it
I have a couple questions, is the whole sump cover process only to make it so it's air tight? it seemed like that took the most time. and how did you pick that area to drill the hole in the cement? is that the only point where the suction for radon is being applied?
what size drill bit did you use also?
Yes the only point of suction is there where you hit the draintile, since we build the house we had idea where it was from the wall and took 6 inch drill bit and drilled for it, once you get through the floor you can move ground to feel for the draintile somewhat
Great vid! I have a pre exsist radon system. I am installing a sump a few ft from it. I don’t have any drain tile sys. How do I vent the lid? Do I T into the radon pipe just a few ft away? I have water in the pit - we have flooding in area now - and I can hear the radon gurgling into my partially dug pit.
Just watched your video. Great job. My question is, what did you use to seal the pipe in the basement to the concrete floor?
I used pl400 and left it 1/4 low and then filled above that with elaster silcon grey
This may be a dumb question, but how did you connect the PVC pipe to the sump pump before fastening down the cover? It seems like the only way to do that is to take the pump out of the water, connect it, and then lower it down into the water while it's attached to the cover. Or is there some type of connector that I don't know about?
+transistor311 we actually installed the pump and we have disconnect splice about 12 inches above the cover in the pvc, so you unbolt the covers top, undue the splice in the pvc and then lift the cover off the pcv and you have access to the pump and about 3 feet of pvc going into it. When installing the pump you attach the pvc and set the pump in the basket then slide the cover top over the pvc and bolt down and reconnect the splice in the pvc. The splice is a rubber coupler with two stainless steel clamps that screw down to tighten it
+ReefDVMs Ok, that makes sense. I thought that the hole in the cover was likely caulked around the PVC to make it more airtight, but if you can just lift the cover off the PVC, that would make things a lot easier. Thanks for your reply.
Great video. If you do another video, please show how loud the fan unit is and update us on the new radon levels. Thanks!
What size ran did you use?I guess you go by CFM rating?thanks
What was your before radon readings? What did you use for a meter/device to check the before/after radon levels?
How far does the pipe that goes thru the roof have to extend into the air above the roof?
mine sticks out roof about 24"
Ok
Thanks for your response!
with the sump sealed for the radon, does it cause any problem when the water is pumped out. do you need a vent? ya know water out needs air in
I have not need vent
what information can you gibe me about the boot you used such as manufacture
how much would a project like this one for example cost?
Your switch or power disconnect needs to be within arm's reach, or more than 6 feet from the fan
Question: Why didn't you take the easier (and maybe more effective) route and just install the radon mitigation system into the existing sump pump well instead of drilling another hole in the cement floor? This is the way my system was installed by a local company specializing in radon systems. Brought my pCi/L from 5.5 to 1.0
yes you can vent out you sump basket but in our case the sump basket was below the kitchen and kids bedrooms which didnt allow easy roof access in our area so we found the drain tile line in the laundry room and that gave easy access to the garage roof to install for better cosmetics
can you recoment a fan ???
I will need to put 2 suction points i dont know what fan I can used
I'm confused. If a sump pump pumps water out, then a vent is needed to let air in to prevent a vacuum. If the radon mitigation sucks air up and out, how can it let air in to prevent the vacuum on the sump?
+Bryan Jones Air is still pulled via the drain tile going into the basket
Quite right, I see how it works!
Thanks for sharing! Could you tell me where to buy a sump cover like this? And what series number, also the cost?
Lu L jackel radon sump pump lid. They sell them at Home Depot. Or on amazon. They even have one that have a see thru window
HP190 fantech 115volts 60watts 2.01psi pull, this is larger fan for a two story house like mine with 2000sqft basement sump to pull out of
This one can cost between $1000-$2000 professional install or as done here about $500-$700
Good job. How long it takes to drill through the concrete floor?
Thanks.
Great video and nice work
Can you provide me with the sump cover brand and model, I need to do the same setup, but plumbing supply needs data to order
www.amazon.com/Original-Radon-Sump-Dome-Model/dp/B073V3RV5X/ref=asc_df_B073V3RV5X/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548266073&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=18343771693126765831&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=aud-801657747996:pla-359234518959&psc=1
You can get them at Menards I can send you link if you email a messgae otherwise the link is in the info on the video page
That was an excellent video, many thanks!
4.5 and 5.4 is hardly cause for a negative pressure system.
Caulking and sealing cracks plus the new sump pit lid would have resulted in a lowered or even total elimination of any “harmful” radon byproduct levels.
Great video, thank you for sharing. Where did you find your 4 1/2" drill bit to drill thru your concrete?
solarguyable online at www.cessco.us/core_bits
Remember to continuously monitor radon levels to make sure mitigation system works properly! Digital radon detectors are the best way to do it
Hi I am planning on putting in a radon mitigation system and wanted to ask a question.
I have a 1750 sq ft basement divided into two rooms. It has a aircon and heating system but is rarely used. If I out in a system how many vent pipe do I need to come up from under the slab?
Interesting. So installing a sump pump to get rid of a water issue opens one up to a radon risk???
Be aware that even with that pitch in attic, if you are in a cold climate that pipe could easily become blocked with ice...fyi
Piping should be schedule 40, not thin drain pipe and with regular sweeps on fittings to improve air flow, not short 90's. The sump cover is solid black, not able to see in it to know whats going on. Clamps on basement wall not sturdy enough. Fan used is a high energy use fan and quite loud. Kozy Kollar looks good though. Also, what the customer had for a sump lid was fine, easier to get off than unbolting lid in an emergency.
Sch 40 pipe is not necessary. It has no effect on the radon levels. I get that it's stronger, but definitely not necessary. Kozy Kollars have leaked for us in the past when installed correctly. They are overpriced and hold no guarantee.
@@keithrogers2295 Yep, PVC Sewer pipe works just fine.
great viedo
You do know that the PVC will melt long be for a fire ring will do any thing.
Because of your video, I also purchased a Jackel sump pump cover. Very well built and does a great job of keeping noises, smells, and of course, radon down. th-cam.com/video/zK5y7tdjCXQ/w-d-xo.html
You could have put the radon mitigation over the sump pump
Radon is radiation. Homeowners may install radon mitigation themselves. For your safety and the safety of others, please refer to EPA radon mitigation system installation guidelines if you are doing the work yourself. Sealing slabs and caulking cracks is not considered a successful stand-alone mitigation strategy by the EPA. If you are hiring someone to install a radon mitigation system in your home, please know that many states require radon mitigators to be trained and licensed by the state's Department of Health. Contact your state's Dept of Health for more information.
I just feel like the only radon you are going to suck out is that 4" diameter circle you drilled. Its not going to magically suck radon gas from under & theew the concrete... you would need several under concrete tunnels that expose the dirt to suck radon gas from. This radon is a racket. A governor made economy booster to create jobs for people.
laughing my ass off!!!! A fire gasket LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hear yeah as far as code. that drywall has paper on it right????? Hmmmmmm