Thanks for such a thorough video! It had been quite a while since I’d done anything like this, and my previous experience was on the front brakes. Only. With the iPad out in the garage, and my 63 year-old wife as my assistant, we succeeded in getting the job done! It was so helpful you included the sizes of the tools needed. We saved $240.00. I truly appreciate you! Thanks again! - Al, age 73
Great job! I love how you showed an often missed step of cleaning the shipping oil off you new rotors, made have to file or sand the centre where the rotor sits. The caliber bolts cleaned and lubed was spot on. Then you exceeded my expectations with all the foot pound torque settings. Very well done guys. A friendly mention, your audio was a little low. However, this is the best version of how to on your tube.
So on these calipers the piston must be spun with a wrench to retract in? You can’t simply just wedge a pry bar in between pad/rotor and physical push the piston in via prying?
Your (very helpful) parts list includes "Motorcraft BRR145 Rear Disc Brake Rotor" -- which does not have Torx holes, but the new rotor that Foster installed does have Torx holes. Did you actually install the BRRF-29 rotor? Is there any difference between the two rotors (aside from the higher price and no Torx holes on the BRR145)?
Never seen a vehicle that needed a "wind back tool". I have always used a c- clamp. Also, I always bleed out the calipers before pressing the Pistons back to avoid pumping the burnt and deteriorated brake fluid out of the calipers and into the brake lines.
SORRY BUT COULDN'T MAKE OUT WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT THE DIFFERANT PIN. DOES THE ONE WITH THE RUBBER BUSHING GO ON THE TOP OR THE BOTTOM WHEN INSTALLED ON THE CAR
It’s been a while since I’ve done all of those. If I remember right the rubber band goes on the bottom. You could take the bolts out of the opposite side and double check.
yusuihang You can’t replace the boots most likable come in a caliper rebuild kit. It’s not too hard just time consuming. Sometimes the calipers are really cheap on some vehicles.
Do you really think that the torque value is 66 ft/lbs on a 13mm bolt? The front has a 15mm bolt and the value is 66, but I think the rear is incorrect.
But you has to open de brake liquid bottle on the hood to releasing the air and when you pressed the pump down the liquid lines will keeping without pressure and don't break it"
Same thing I said... i have a 2012 ford fusion. And i litterally had to hammer off the Motorcraft factory rotor since it was rusted on.. alo my piston on the caliper had rust on it too.. had to brush it down with a witr brush
The calipers are a pain in the ass in the rear. Why can't ford make a caliper where all you need is a c-clamp. To me it doesn't make sense. What ever happened to a caliper where you, never had a clamp with all that hardware. FORD made it so much harder. On my cars in the 80's all you needed to do was to take the 2 bolts off the caliper, use a c clamp to get it back in, then take the rotor off the hub. They never had a clamp back then. Then you put the rotor back on , then you dealt with the caliper. On one brake pad you put on a clamp on the back of it, put that pad snug in the caliper,, placed the other pad on the caliper and then put the caliper back on, bolt it up, and the job was done. It's pathetic that you need a seperate tool to put the cylinder back to the right position, and then fool around with a clamp that you never needed for the rotors. In my opinion the new way sucks! Does only FORD have this or all cars now as far as the brakes????? My 1979 transam was so much easier in changing my brakes.
Thanks for such a thorough video! It had been quite a while since I’d done anything like this, and my previous experience was on the front brakes. Only. With the iPad out in the garage, and my 63 year-old wife as my assistant, we succeeded in getting the job done! It was so helpful you included the sizes of the tools needed. We saved $240.00. I truly appreciate you! Thanks again! - Al, age 73
Alexander Washick Al glad The video helped you out. It’s awesome that you saved some serious money there. Thank you so much for watching!
Great job! I love how you showed an often missed step of cleaning the shipping oil off you new rotors, made have to file or sand the centre where the rotor sits. The caliber bolts cleaned and lubed was spot on. Then you exceeded my expectations with all the foot pound torque settings. Very well done guys. A friendly mention, your audio was a little low. However, this is the best version of how to on your tube.
Good Guy thank you! Glad you like the video. For my new videos I’ve added a external microphone. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for making this video! Helped me out significantly when I replaced my brakes
Incredibly descriptive by far the best of all the videos I had to watch. I wish I would have found yours first.
Why did you push on the piston in 2 different ways?
great and all but what size sockets and torque tip for rotors?
Great job Foster! Way to start them out Brian 🛠😉
Darwin W I think he’s a natural!
The best mechanics have both a strong desire for this type of work & a good mechanic to learn from.
I just used this step by step and I only have one problem. Why do you make it look so easy? Great tutorial! I'm just a terrible car worker on guy.
WOWW details are fully said, Great job guys!
Extremely well done - great detail and easy to follow - thanks!
sheila sabella thank you for watching!
Good team work... he's a natural!
Thomas EXOVCDS Thomas I think he is. He knows how to work his hands.
So on these calipers the piston must be spun with a wrench to retract in? You can’t simply just wedge a pry bar in between pad/rotor and physical push the piston in via prying?
What brake caliper wind back tool would you recommend so I could change em at home?
Thanks, great detail, needed the info on the different pins and you provided it!
J Giff glad the video was helpful. Thank you for watching!
Did I do something wrong if I smell burnt metal after I put the new pads and rotors on and go for a drive?
For a short while that’s normal but if it persists, I will double check your work possible a twisted brake hoses
Your (very helpful) parts list includes "Motorcraft BRR145 Rear Disc Brake Rotor" -- which does not have Torx holes, but the new rotor that Foster installed does have Torx holes. Did you actually install the BRRF-29 rotor? Is there any difference between the two rotors (aside from the higher price and no Torx holes on the BRR145)?
Fantastic video!
Never seen a vehicle that needed a "wind back tool". I have always used a c- clamp. Also, I always bleed out the calipers before pressing the Pistons back to avoid pumping the burnt and deteriorated brake fluid out of the calipers and into the brake lines.
Pos fords use them
@@ericl3272 Yes. Never ran into them on the several POS chevys I had.
@@raycalandra1887 Nissans and some Mopar, Mazda, Mercury have them on the rear only
SORRY BUT COULDN'T MAKE OUT WHAT YOU SAID ABOUT THE DIFFERANT PIN. DOES THE ONE WITH THE RUBBER BUSHING GO ON THE TOP OR THE BOTTOM WHEN INSTALLED ON THE CAR
It’s been a while since I’ve done all of those. If I remember right the rubber band goes on the bottom. You could take the bolts out of the opposite side and double check.
Great job great teacher great video.
Sloan Pilgrim thank you!
Excellent video! Thanks!
If piston boot is torn, is it tricky to just remove and install replacement boot? Or is new caliper required?
yusuihang You can’t replace the boots most likable come in a caliper rebuild kit. It’s not too hard just time consuming. Sometimes the calipers are really cheap on some vehicles.
great video thanks
Thank you for watching!
Any advice on changing the caliper itself?
livingfilmmaker.... Yes, take it off and reinstall the new one bleed the brakes.
It's called look at it, figure it out and do it.
@@goodboyringo9716 Not everyone is a pro. Don't be a dick
I liked the video though. Very informative.
Do you need the brake caliber wind back tool? i've seen a few people do brakes and they never used this
Racing&Beats yes on this model you do need the tool.
@@HowtoAutomotive thanks for the quick reply, i'm gonna rent one from auto zone appreciate it!
Racing&Beats Glad to help. Thank you for watching!
Why used 2 different methods to compress the piston
I had heard that a drive battery charger was on the rear brakes, where was that?
Not sure what you mean by drive battery charger. Nothing like that on this model
How to Automotive I think he may be referring to the regenerative braking system found on hybrids
Do you really think that the torque value is 66 ft/lbs on a 13mm bolt? The front has a 15mm bolt and the value is 66, but I think the rear is incorrect.
But you has to open de brake liquid bottle on the hood to releasing the air and when you pressed the pump down the liquid lines will keeping without pressure and don't break it"
you definitely don't live in the rust belt.... lucky :P
nick elias I am lucky to live in San Diego. Not a fan of rust repairs.
I'm in upstate NY not far from Eric from SMA... rust capital lmao
nick elias beautiful up there. Got to visit that area about 10 years ago would love to go back.
nick elias but not to work🤓
Same thing I said... i have a 2012 ford fusion. And i litterally had to hammer off the Motorcraft factory rotor since it was rusted on.. alo my piston on the caliper had rust on it too.. had to brush it down with a witr brush
Brakes. The one job that really has to be done right. Unless you have a death wish.
The calipers are a pain in the ass in the rear. Why can't ford make a caliper where all you need is a c-clamp. To me it doesn't make sense. What ever happened to a caliper where you, never had a clamp with all that hardware. FORD made it so much harder.
On my cars in the 80's all you needed to do was to take the 2 bolts off the caliper, use a c clamp to get it back in, then take the rotor off the hub. They never had a clamp back then. Then you put the rotor back on , then you dealt with the caliper.
On one brake pad you put on a clamp on the back of it, put that pad snug in the caliper,, placed the other pad on the caliper and then put the caliper back on, bolt it up, and the job was done.
It's pathetic that you need a seperate tool to put the cylinder back to the right position, and then fool around with a clamp that you never needed for the rotors. In my opinion the new way sucks! Does only FORD have this or all cars now as far as the brakes????? My 1979 transam was so much easier in changing my brakes.
That's brake tool sucks. I was using flat sheet of metal with rubber backing and a c clamp
So you didn't need the special tool?