How to create a ROPE BRAKE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- awesomeforsale...
Visit my shop at This hitch is similar to one used in rock climbing. It’s a good one to know if you’re ever moving furniture or you need to lower a heavy item down from a window or elevated height.
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I've never seen a Super Munter Hitch tied using this technique, but it's perfect for a closed anchor system and definitely worth keeping in the technique toolbox.
One word of caution, it abraids rope quickly so if using to handle delicate or important loads, switch the rope out after a few uses to avoid a failure.
Mrs. First Class Amateur: "Quit playing around and get the decorations out of the attic!"
AWESOME! Now I want to see how to raise boxes into an attic.
This same hitch will work because it's just a Munter hitch with an extra wrap. As you pull with the other end, the hitch flips around and you can go the other direction. The version in the video however will feel like it's flipping twice because of the 2 wraps it has. For lighter boxes, the standard Munter hitch will be good enough.
For mechanical advantage, a quick way is to use two ratchet straps in parallel. Ratchet one up until the spool is full; then the second one ratchets up, then unspool the first, rinse and repeat, etc.
Versatackle knot!
Super munter is used like the regular munter hitch to belay your partner in case you've lost your grigri. It provides more friction and will not twist your rope like the regular one...instead of learning how to tie the two orientation you can give slack and pull on the loaded size, it will "reverse" itself into place like the munter hitch, just with an extra movement
Another option is to just use a Munter Hitch. It does not have as much stopping braking power but I imagine it is sufficient for lowering boxes.
And the munter is reverable, so you can just switch loadbearing ends when lowering several items.
I am loving the button hook at the end.
0:24 You made the "American Death Triangle"
And with such a short rope is even more painful to see it
2:06 The angle of the triangle is more than 90°. Each anchor point is supporting much more weight than if you had only used one anchor point.
I’m glad someone else spotted this. I don’t know how much weight he’ll be lowering at once. Also putting a noggin between the parts of the roof timbers would help reduce any risk that they pull together or twist.
Cool, after seeing this button hook connector thing I found a very cool knot. I call it "The security button hook". It forms a friction hitch around the cord that goes to the stopper. Maybe use a bit bigger loop for this and after laying something in the button hook, close it as usual but this time just wrap the stopper knot a few times around the cord it went by as it went through the loop (the loops cord). Wrap it around 2 - 3 times in one direction and then pull the stopper knot to straighten the cord that goes to the stopper knot. Then you can slide the cords that go around the cord that goes to the stopper knot, away from the stopper knot and it will stay there if you start to load this "connection"
It's called a munter hitch. It’s reversible as well so it's just as effective for hoisting as it is for belay
Thanks again for another great tutorial. Love your channel. 👍🏻
this knot is called a "super munter". sometimes climbers use it if they drop their belay device
They call this the super munter for any intermediate knotters or climbers. Awesome application!!
The hitch at the end is very similar to a Munter hitch; used often by solo climbers to rappel.
You should timestamp for accuracy if you are going to mention climbing.
@jakemccoy it's the only knot at the end of the video he mentioned used for climbing. It can't be confused
@@Firefoxtony Not a difficult request, but you don't care about my point apparently. So, I believe people should ignore your post.
@jakemccoy no I don't care about your point you're right, because it's irrelevant as its clearly stated and a self righteous comment under the false pretext of care.
@@Firefoxtony Still no timestamp, yet you have ample time to comment. That proves what kind of guy you are.
Looks like a Munter hitch I've used in the past. Used with a radium release hitch while lowering a load.
This looks like a Munter hitch with an extra wrap, going the other way, around the standing end. Everything flips over just like the Munter hitch does when you pull it the other way.
It's the Super Munter Hitch.
Nice but I'd love to release the payload from above without having to climb down the ladder for each christmas decoration... whatcha got? :)
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Once I dropped dropped my gri gri about 80 off a ledge and tried to rap down on a munter. One hell of a twisted rope after that.
This is sooo epic! Thank you for explaining this one.
You're very welcome!
V. elegant, but you could accomplish the same thing with 2 round turns on the bar/shackle.
I like this for light loads, but it looks like the friction passing through the loop could cut through the line with more weight or letting it go too fast.
I would only use it as you did and even then make sure nothing can hit a person or cause damage.
If you have a bar rigged, you could probably just wrap it around that multiple times.
A super munter is considered safe enough for climbing. The regular munter would likely be better for the rope, but it twists the rope something fierce
These are great. The last one reminds me of a soft shackle. Good knots to know.
This hitch is going to be most helpful for many things I do!
You are magical! I always learn something new. I want to be like you when I grow up. 😀
I always wish I would have a rope in my hands bc you are great at showing things so I can understand. Bare essentials is another guys videos that I like!
Dang. I’d need to practice this.
I've heard this called the "super munter hitch". Unlike a regular munter, it doesn't twist the rope as you lower.
I enjoy your videos, and some very interesting content thanks. However, at 2:01 the anchor rigging is wrong and could be dangerous if using it with heavy loads. Forming a Triangle puts enormous tension on the horizontal line which can cause your metal anchor eyes to pull the screws out. A much better practice is to tie off each end to one metal eye, thereby forming a "V" shape omitting the horizontal line. This method prevents any pulley action which stresses the metal eyes. The "V" shape rigging 'should' be less than 90-degrees.
Reference: Rigger's Handbook
Ok. But how to do the d-ring portion into the rafters and rope knot configuration?
I had the same question and got the answer. It’s a water knot (an over hand knot then re-trace itself)
Noticed that your explanation on the position of the stopper knot relative to bowline loop falls short of the loop in this explanation. In one of your other videos the stopper is longer than the bowline loop. Curious about the difference.
Super Munter Hitch and stopper knot is Ashley Knot.😃
super munter and bowline soft shackle. i love!
Cool. Can I use it to rappel my self down the hatch.
So you're using a Super Munter Hitch... Very cool!
I think you are one of a few people in the world that knows all the knots and understands each one how to use it... just amazing 👏
I'm wondering if I could use a version of this to lower our kayaks from their garage ceiling mount (which we discussed before). I'd need a reverse mechanism too though to put them back up.
both the munter hitch or this one the super munter flips over when you reverse directions so it can go either way, up or down , very useful hitch. the super munter just adds more friction to the load to control it easier. having pulleys to help with the weight to lift it up would help if the kayaks are heavy. this hitch will not give you a mechanical advantage to lift though, it is just a friction hitch to contol decent or stop the rope easier when going up or down. dan
Crazy! Things get lighter for me every year!
Sometimes I don't know my own strength.
Aren’t you not supposed to set up the hanger/pulley anchor part in a triangle like that? I’m not an expert but rock climbers call that an American death triangle because it magnifies the load on the anchor
Watching national lampoon's christmas vacation and realizing: can you show us how to use cord to tie up a christmas tree!? nice and tight!!?? 😮
Love an extra munter. I'm going to use this for sure
I'm a little worried about this one. This is a climbing knot, as everybody else is pointing out, and paracord isn't safe for climbing. Not because paracord isn't strong enough, you could make a cord thick enough and it still wouldn't be safe, because paracord melts from friction in knots like this if there's enough load. It helps that you have it tied on a smooth steel shackle, I think you'd start to see the cord deteriorating at much lower loads if it was tied on a loop or a branch. You're not climbing, but dropping stuff can be dangerous too.
But anyone using any knot information for climbing should follow the #1 rule not to assume the information applies to climbing unless it was explicitly outlined as such and comes from a qualified source. This is not a climbing channel.
@@bloodgain If you're doing the same work, lifting and lowering heavy objects, the same hazards apply.
@@Ziraya0 Fair point. This is clearly meant for relatively light loads, and no one should ever be standing below an object being lowered. But I do agree that friction failure is one of the major downsides to paracord. What would you suggest? Braided nylon (e.g. dock rope), maybe? Climbing-rated rope is far too expensive. Most people won't have it around, and I doubt climbers will use their good rope to get down the Xmas decorations.
@@bloodgainI would suggest caution and awareness. Monitor the rope's condition, and stay cognizant of each load's weight; the line of safety is somewhere between 50lbs and 1 typical human. Keep speeds low so that stops are always gentle and heat is generated slowly. Maybe set up another climbing knot like a prussik or a klemheist, anchored to the attic, so by default there is tension available to lock this hitch. Still a knot to be careful with, but the biggest enemy here is speed and making sure the whole situation defaults to locked will help prevent speed.
My biggest worry is that the video doesn't bring up this context, and I for sure almost always take what I learn here and figure out how to apply it to my bespoke situation. I don't expect people to know the breadth of minutia that parasitizes my brain, it's not even reasonable to expect people to understand what rope load ratings in lbs actually mean (and why therefore climbing ropes aren't rated in weights)
Ah. The traditional Christmas Yule Dumbell.
What knot you use on the 3-point section up top?
Munter hitch! I rappel with it regularly.
Munter hitch?
Or an Italian Hitch.
Problem is, by the time I put this knot together correctly, I could have already finished the tasks multiple times over.
A monster munter.
I’d like to see someone do that with a ratchet strap.
This is awesome.... as usual. Can you make a cat or dog harness?
It's like watching math.
Super munter hitch greater friction and does not twist the rope than the classic one.
AWESOME! 👍🙏
Lower it down is a tautology. You can't lower it up. Lower is sufficient.
In knot tying, redundancy is a safety precaution.
😳👍
🎅🏼🙏
HMS
Munter
Sooo. Theoretically a 100 pound, 70 year old woman could easily lift a, oh let's say 190 pound 72 year old man's body into the attic? Asking for a friend ...
🇵🇬🇵🇬,,,