-How much oil, if any, drained out when you opened the stator cover?- Never mind, have to drain the oil! Now that you've replaced the stator, what voltage is it putting out at the battery? -Do you have any problems with the stator wires burning/melting through the plastic connector at the R/R?- Ok never mind, answered that too, but I don't agree with the oil making its way up the wire because its not the stem of a plant, and I don't see how it would siphon the oil. What happens on mine is the wire just gets really, really hot. And its not just a 675 problem. It has happened with many different bikes. A heavier wire gauge should reduce the resistance in the wire therefore lowering the temperature. You can tie a small wire to the connector, feed the wire through, then pull the stator wires through. It is really tight. Thanks for the video.
If you check the route of the cable on 2:17 and the one on 4:23 you will see that you passed it through the wrong "channel". Just replaced mine today and had really big trouble finding the correct one. After 40 mins+ I figured out the correct way. If only I had watched your video earlier it would have saved me a lot of time and cursing. Anyways.... Cheers mate!
I'm not sure the appearance of the copper wires really gives much of an indication of the condition of the stator. Depending on the location of each coil around the crank, the different coils are probably heated to different temperatures over the lift time of the part which _may_ cause a variety of discoloration. The real questions are: *why did you replace the stator? Was it producing any voltage before replacement? If so, what was the voltage of each of the three stator wires before the R/R? What voltage was being produced at the battery?* I'm about to replace mine b/c it appears to be dead, producing only 2V on each of the three wires. The manual specifies no less than 10V. It was producing basically 0V at the battery which caused the bike to die while going down the road.
I replaced the stator because when I bought the bike the battery was swollen, the reg/rec was putting out AC to the battery. When I tested everything I wasn't getting the right voltage out of the stator so I just replaced all 3 components.
@@donovan6759 I almost replaced the stator until I realized I did the test wrong. Once I realized it was correct I tested the R/R and found out it was actually the faulty part. Goes to show why its important to test all components! And to do it correctly! Glad you got it fixed. I've realized now that on my Daytona, R/Rs are a consumable component, that is until I invest in a more robust R/R. Until then it will just keep burning through them.
@@GamesRorsome part of it. I upgraded the stator and rectifier as well. Went with an RMStator and a Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA Rectifier Kit. Worked great. I had TH-cam help me out with the install lol
don’t know if you’re still active, just got a 675 as my first bike and i love it. wondering if you could contact me and help me out? can’t figure out where to get my parts from. literally have no one in my life that knows anything about bikes so i could the help!
Danzig mother, love that song , good vídeo , i have to replace mine and im thinking in following your video cause my mechanic is such an asshole and asks to much money just for replacement. Thks
-How much oil, if any, drained out when you opened the stator cover?- Never mind, have to drain the oil! Now that you've replaced the stator, what voltage is it putting out at the battery? -Do you have any problems with the stator wires burning/melting through the plastic connector at the R/R?- Ok never mind, answered that too, but I don't agree with the oil making its way up the wire because its not the stem of a plant, and I don't see how it would siphon the oil. What happens on mine is the wire just gets really, really hot. And its not just a 675 problem. It has happened with many different bikes. A heavier wire gauge should reduce the resistance in the wire therefore lowering the temperature.
You can tie a small wire to the connector, feed the wire through, then pull the stator wires through. It is really tight.
Thanks for the video.
lol this is a famous problem. How often did you replace it?
If you check the route of the cable on 2:17 and the one on 4:23 you will see that you passed it through the wrong "channel". Just replaced mine today and had really big trouble finding the correct one. After 40 mins+ I figured out the correct way. If only I had watched your video earlier it would have saved me a lot of time and cursing. Anyways.... Cheers mate!
I'm not sure the appearance of the copper wires really gives much of an indication of the condition of the stator. Depending on the location of each coil around the crank, the different coils are probably heated to different temperatures over the lift time of the part which _may_ cause a variety of discoloration. The real questions are: *why did you replace the stator? Was it producing any voltage before replacement? If so, what was the voltage of each of the three stator wires before the R/R? What voltage was being produced at the battery?* I'm about to replace mine b/c it appears to be dead, producing only 2V on each of the three wires. The manual specifies no less than 10V. It was producing basically 0V at the battery which caused the bike to die while going down the road.
I replaced the stator because when I bought the bike the battery was swollen, the reg/rec was putting out AC to the battery. When I tested everything I wasn't getting the right voltage out of the stator so I just replaced all 3 components.
@@donovan6759 I almost replaced the stator until I realized I did the test wrong. Once I realized it was correct I tested the R/R and found out it was actually the faulty part. Goes to show why its important to test all components! And to do it correctly! Glad you got it fixed. I've realized now that on my Daytona, R/Rs are a consumable component, that is until I invest in a more robust R/R. Until then it will just keep burning through them.
I just bought the exact same stator. Installing this weekend but not draining oil.
I have this bike and it has a cam chain rattle on cold startup. Did you ever have that issue?
Did you use some sort of gasket sealant, or was that just plain oil you put on the new gasket. Thanks in advance.
just oil
What brand of stator did you put back in it?
Do I need to drain the oil/coolant before removing the crankcase?
Hey man, is the stator still running great? Looking to order one for my 07 daytona. International shipping so i'm a little nervous about quality.
I would recommend using loctite on the stator bolts to prevent them from loosening
My stator bolts came loose! Hell of a knock, cheap fix though. Dealer wanted 3,500 for a total motor tear down.
Ty so much i will change it Soon helps much !! ❤️
Great video, I had to hard wire my rectifier and stator.
was this because the plug kept burning out? I’m having this issue rn
@@GamesRorsome part of it. I upgraded the stator and rectifier as well. Went with an RMStator and a Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA Rectifier Kit. Worked great. I had TH-cam help me out with the install lol
@@MrEvoXI alright, thanks
Where did you order the new stator and did it come with the gasket?
RMSTATOR.COM gasket sold separately parts from them come with a 1 yr warranty
@@donovan6759 Thanks for the recommendation.
don’t know if you’re still active, just got a 675 as my first bike and i love it. wondering if you could contact me and help me out? can’t figure out where to get my parts from. literally have no one in my life that knows anything about bikes so i could the help!
2008 daytona 675i tombo relay??
Danzig mother, love that song , good vídeo , i have to replace mine and im thinking in following your video cause my mechanic is such an asshole and asks to much money just for replacement. Thks
How did you access the wiring input locations under the throttle bodies
They are under the gas tank not the TBs
TY
I’m working on mine rn