You Mmmmm bmboshould get your hair and make it a good 😌😌 I can get a couple more things done ✔️ you have the best for the next two years you will have to get it done ✔️ I have the one one ☝🏻 the other day you do do that I I don’t don’t want it for for you you for the car 🚗 is a lot more expensive but it’s ok 👌🏻 Isuzu
Whenever I see one of these vids I feel so spoiled that none of the stuff I get to work on is in a dirt crawlspace or up in the attic. Almost all furnaces are in a fairly clean mechanical room and of the few that are in a crawlspace its always finished concrete. Takes a lot of motivation to work in dirt crawlspaces and attics every day, gotta respect that.
This got my attention since I have the same model! Had the same issue on my 3 year old unit this time last year. He smacked the motor with a rubber hammer and got it started. Had the inducer motor assembly replaced under my 10 year warranty. Thanks Ted!
You are a good man to go ahead and replace that motor while the warrantee is in force. Otherwise that one might just run long enough to get out of warranty and leave the customer with the bill. Good job!
Had a doozy of a no heat - removed the nest from the port but the spider was still alive! Moving in and out of port and gas turning on and off…. I had checked everything before pulling the hose yet again to be faced with the spider.
Hard to believe some dirt granules would stop that motor. Smart move going ahead and ordering a replacement. The drain for the furnace would drive me crazy. It’s not supported and it’s right in the way if you ever need to pull the blower. Tell them installers to tighten up!
I remember back in the 1990's, the company that I was working for had a number of Trane furnaces that we would have to go and go e the inducer a spin. After persuading it they would work all winter, go figure.
Good idea to go ahead and order the replacement part. I feel a call back coming. Those delicate little motors are super finicky about the slightest debris.
Couple things putting a tennis ball in the exhaust on install day until flue is ran will save a lot of grief and pitching the intake up or putting a gutter on intake will prevent that moisture from taking out the gas valve and that inducer
Like you observed, that motor got wet at some point, probably the condensate drain and/or lineset dripping on top of the heater itself. Eventually it will lock up again. I've seen it so many times. Me personally I would replace it like you said. Call backs suck. Love your content 👍
I actually just did a warranty replacement on an inducer for the same thing. Water condensed in the intake and dripped right into the inducer. Our techs have actually seen it on enough units that we are installing the great intake scoops that trane is more then happy to charge us for in order to correct their design flaw.
Crawlspace unit are always rusty and moldy. It's sitting on top of a puddle look at the beginning of the video. Burner compartment is open to the basement, 1 pipe. The rtu's are others that the inducers are normally all rusted. Oil the hell out of it and maybe it will make it until the warranty expires.
This past week was our first week of no heats and the one service tech ran into four of these we installed with seized inducers , after speaking to trane fsr found out the inducer drain line should go to middle port on condensate trape for better pitch , apparently it's not instructed in install manual
Just had my flu assist replaced today and asked the tech for the old one to inspect for why it failed being the furnace was only a 4 year old American Standard. Opened up the back housing and could hear a rubbing noise kept shaking it and finally a small spec of hard black plastic fell out about the size of a broken lead pencil. Almost charged me $450.00 for the unit when I asked should it not be under warranty being that it was only a 4 year old furnace. The tech said he would look into to it was not sure about American Standard but if it had been a trane it would have been warranty, needless to say a different tech came by today with the replacement no charge.
probably told them to have an electrician install a receptacle for it and left temporary extension cord and the homeowners never did, probably right on the bill of sale. many will do that as plumbers, basement water proofing and other installers (big orange and blue stores)
Could be the owner didn't want the "electrician" expense, hence the extension cord or...the installer kept the "electrician" funds and used what he had in the truck.
We stock one inducer and one board on the vans for these furnaces is becoming such a problem you cannot do top intake outside air either it Hass to be side intake or open air or you’ll destroy the burners.
I'd be embarrassed running that condensate drain like that. Every installer needs to run service to see what we all have to go through. Yes I am an installer and yes I do service so I approve this message
Ted, I thought sure as crap that when you turned the blower over in your hand a mouse, lizard or snake was going to fall into your hand. You scared me for nothing!
Wow, that flue is all kinds of wrong. You need to be at least 12” before you use a elbow. I hope you removed that outside elbow too. (It will frost up in really cold weather)
I have the exact dame furnace for about 6 months now. Temperatures have been pretty low last 2 months or so and never had this furnace go into stage 2 heating. Any idea why that would be? Stage 1 heating runs for 12 to 14 hours a day. I feel like thats too much.
Hi Ted! I always enjoy watching your videos and it's given me the confidence to tackle some of my own issues. However, I need some advice if you care to give it please. My (propane) furnace is 16 years old. Late last year, I noticed it wasn't always starting on the first try. I figured it was a dirty flame sensor so this weekend, I pulled it out and cleaned it. When I watched it try to start, I noticed the first burner, next to the hot surface ignitor, was lighting but the flames weren't propagating down the horizontal row of burners (there are six). Upon closer inspection, the burners are rusted at the business end and the gas wasn't coming out of the side holes to allow the flame to travel across and light all of them. I pulled them out and cleaned the rust out of the holes and now it works like it should but I'm guessing now that the rust has started they should be replaced. Now that I've seen the rust on the burners, I'm wondering if there is rust in the plenum and would taking the money for new burners and applying that to a new furnace be more prudent? Any advice anyone cares to offer would be great. Thanks for the vids!
I love mine. Very efficient. Combined with an Aprilaire Steam humidifier, I’m comfortable all winter long with a lower thermostat setting and humidity at 40-45%…best thing I ever did to my home. This 30 year old home was never comfortable in cold weather previously…
That heater has shit for slope on the pvc exhaust. I bet that thing would be really burning incorrect if you did a combustion test. Incorrect install and design causes more issues than you'd think. Bet that flue is the cause for all that water backing up.
Yes those induced draft motors are notorious to lock up over a humid summer. I normally use a little spray penetrating oil on the bearings and give the customer the option to replace it ( because obviously there would be no warranty on my service call unless they did ). I wasn't so much concerned about the electrical extension cord but did you see that crappy gas line installation ? (2 lbs system plus crappy installation, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night doing work like that.🤮). Ted, when people do work like that in your community, you should have enough work for three lifetimes.
Why would you force a 2 stage furnace to only run on stage 2? Even if you don't want to run a 2 stage wire for a new thermostat, atleast use the built in delay feature to run stage 1 & 2 via timer. I'm proud to be called a "hack" installer if this is what a "pro" does.
After watching more of the video, I bet forcing it to 2 stage heat all the time, without delay, has probably led to this early failure. More stress on startup.
Should defiantly take the time to pull a stat wire with enough conductors and/or install the correct thermostat. It's a shame to have that nice of a system and be wired to run no different than a much cheaper model.
I don’t know what it is about American standard high-efficiency furnace inducers, they always seem to get some type of epoxy or something down in there that seizes the motor. I have walked up to so many of those things that were not working, pulled the inducer off and then started spinning the wheel and chunks of a white/off-white epoxy fell out and then everything worked good.
Love that walk-in crawlspace. Wish they were all like that.
You Mmmmm bmboshould get your hair and make it a good 😌😌 I can get a couple more things done ✔️ you have the best for the next two years you will have to get it done ✔️ I have the one one ☝🏻 the other day you do do that I I don’t don’t want it for for you you for the car 🚗 is a lot more expensive but it’s ok 👌🏻 Isuzu
Whenever I see one of these vids I feel so spoiled that none of the stuff I get to work on is in a dirt crawlspace or up in the attic. Almost all furnaces are in a fairly clean mechanical room and of the few that are in a crawlspace its always finished concrete. Takes a lot of motivation to work in dirt crawlspaces and attics every day, gotta respect that.
Sometimes it gets pretty rough!
Watched this video, and learned how to fix my furnace. Thanks! Saved me a ton of money
This got my attention since I have the same model! Had the same issue on my 3 year old unit this time last year. He smacked the motor with a rubber hammer and got it started. Had the inducer motor assembly replaced under my 10 year warranty. Thanks Ted!
That small vacuum tube that you were adjusting right before ignition should be trimmed to the correct size to reduce water build up in it
You are a good man to go ahead and replace that motor while the warrantee is in force. Otherwise that one might just run long enough to get out of warranty and leave the customer with the bill. Good job!
We’re required by our code to have a screen on the supply and exhaust air for these units to prevent bugs and such from entering these pipes
Had a doozy of a no heat - removed the nest from the port but the spider was still alive! Moving in and out of port and gas turning on and off…. I had checked everything before pulling the hose yet again to be faced with the spider.
Where do they do that
A screen in front of the exhaust won’t last a year. You gotta replace those yearly.
The cause is you need a trap kit on your intake water comes in from there you can see the rust development on the end of the draft motor.
Hard to believe some dirt granules would stop that motor. Smart move going ahead and ordering a replacement. The drain for the furnace would drive me crazy. It’s not supported and it’s right in the way if you ever need to pull the blower. Tell them installers to tighten up!
It’s rusty bearings, not dirt
The tankless wiring is only temporary unless it works!
We call that temporary permanent😀
I remember back in the 1990's, the company that I was working for had a number of Trane furnaces that we would have to go and go e the inducer a spin. After persuading it they would work all winter, go figure.
Good idea to go ahead and order the replacement part. I feel a call back coming. Those delicate little motors are super finicky about the slightest debris.
probably got water into the motor bearing/s and seized it, capacitor on it may be weak and low torque also.
Sometimes those induced draft motors just need a little massaging 😉
I just love that furnace on bricks
Couple things putting a tennis ball in the exhaust on install day until flue is ran will save a lot of grief and pitching the intake up or putting a gutter on intake will prevent that moisture from taking out the gas valve and that inducer
Had stink bugs stop one recently.
F'en stink bugs get everywhere
Like you observed, that motor got wet at some point, probably the condensate drain and/or lineset dripping on top of the heater itself. Eventually it will lock up again. I've seen it so many times. Me personally I would replace it like you said. Call backs suck. Love your content 👍
I actually just did a warranty replacement on an inducer for the same thing. Water condensed in the intake and dripped right into the inducer. Our techs have actually seen it on enough units that we are installing the great intake scoops that trane is more then happy to charge us for in order to correct their design flaw.
Crawlspace unit are always rusty and moldy. It's sitting on top of a puddle look at the beginning of the video. Burner compartment is open to the basement, 1 pipe. The rtu's are others that the inducers are normally all rusted. Oil the hell out of it and maybe it will make it until the warranty expires.
This past week was our first week of no heats and the one service tech ran into four of these we installed with seized inducers , after speaking to trane fsr found out the inducer drain line should go to middle port on condensate trape for better pitch , apparently it's not instructed in install manual
And run 3” always on these things, you actually taught me that tedd
Being a PSC motor it will probably be fine but excellent idea to have one in stock if it should give trouble when the cold nights hit soon:)
That's a horror scene in that crawl space. Still better than some ove been to with spiders everywhere.
Good video. I noticed the main board in this Trane is an Emerson.... Same company that makes the Sensei Wi-Fi thermostat.
I noticed that’s the same board in the Goodman variable speed furnaces
Just had my flu assist replaced today and asked the tech for the old one to inspect for why it failed being the furnace was only a 4 year old American Standard. Opened up the back housing and could hear a rubbing noise kept shaking it and finally a small spec of hard black plastic fell out about the size of a broken lead pencil. Almost charged me $450.00 for the unit when I asked should it not be under warranty being that it was only a 4 year old furnace. The tech said he would look into to it was not sure about American Standard but if it had been a trane it would have been warranty, needless to say a different tech came by today with the replacement no charge.
1st. back to watch your video soon - busy at work atm.
I was expecting a toy Godzilla jammed inside that blower.
Why would the exhaust endcap not have a screen in it? I have never seen one without the screen. Even for direct vent water heaters.
Mine doesn’t. Was thinking if I should add one.
That water heater got the old bandit install
or handy man install lol
probably told them to have an electrician install a receptacle for it and left temporary extension cord and the homeowners never did, probably right on the bill of sale.
many will do that as plumbers, basement water proofing and other installers (big orange and blue stores)
Could be the owner didn't want the "electrician" expense, hence the extension cord or...the installer kept the "electrician" funds and used what he had in the truck.
1/2” gas line for a tankless is a No No
Looks to me like someones gone to Wallymart!
Looked like a loose bolt on the bottom of the unit. Right under the board. Maybe it fell out when Ted was removing the inducer motor.
Would an inexpensive bore scope help you? You could at least see past that outside elbow.
We stock one inducer and one board on the vans for these furnaces is becoming such a problem you cannot do top intake outside air either it Hass to be side intake or open air or you’ll destroy the burners.
I have this same furnace for 5 years now and it is top intake. The installers seemed competent.
I'd be embarrassed running that condensate drain like that. Every installer needs to run service to see what we all have to go through. Yes I am an installer and yes I do service so I approve this message
Ted, I thought sure as crap that when you turned the blower over in your hand a mouse, lizard or snake was going to fall into your hand. You scared me for nothing!
I was anticipating the same thing, it would have been fun to see how far he jumped. Love the content on this channel.
Jimmy!
Love your vids.
Crawlspaces hide a number of sins, apparently
Wow, that flue is all kinds of wrong. You need to be at least 12” before you use a elbow. I hope you removed that outside elbow too. (It will frost up in really cold weather)
Hi sir, my furnace is the same as this one. LED is black, although power is OK. Should I replace the control panel firstly?
Why would they only one pipe in a crawlspace with a dirt floor? And why Face that exhaust down?
How hard is it to pull the blower out of these new S9 Furnaces considering they are behind that panel now?
I have the exact dame furnace for about 6 months now. Temperatures have been pretty low last 2 months or so and never had this furnace go into stage 2 heating. Any idea why that would be? Stage 1 heating runs for 12 to 14 hours a day. I feel like thats too much.
Good catch!
Hi Ted! I always enjoy watching your videos and it's given me the confidence to tackle some of my own issues. However, I need some advice if you care to give it please. My (propane) furnace is 16 years old. Late last year, I noticed it wasn't always starting on the first try. I figured it was a dirty flame sensor so this weekend, I pulled it out and cleaned it. When I watched it try to start, I noticed the first burner, next to the hot surface ignitor, was lighting but the flames weren't propagating down the horizontal row of burners (there are six). Upon closer inspection, the burners are rusted at the business end and the gas wasn't coming out of the side holes to allow the flame to travel across and light all of them. I pulled them out and cleaned the rust out of the holes and now it works like it should but I'm guessing now that the rust has started they should be replaced. Now that I've seen the rust on the burners, I'm wondering if there is rust in the plenum and would taking the money for new burners and applying that to a new furnace be more prudent? Any advice anyone cares to offer would be great. Thanks for the vids!
Not going to lie, when a DIY’er asks a question on a channel called Anti DIY HVAC I get a good chuckle 🤣
Do you ever do combustion test on them?
i would have bet it was the rubber stopper for the coil.
Would you recommend this unit? We are about to swap oil for gas and we looked at this unit
Yes it is a great furnace !!
I love mine. Very efficient. Combined with an Aprilaire Steam humidifier, I’m comfortable all winter long with a lower thermostat setting and humidity at 40-45%…best thing I ever did to my home. This 30 year old home was never comfortable in cold weather previously…
That furnace is missing the water hat around the control board.
Hmm, no screen on the outside exhaust??
Absolutely not !!!
I thought they made a rodent screen for the exhaust.
What the heck? This is like the second furnace I've seen where the fan is like blocked off behind all the electronics. Is this a new trend?
That heater has shit for slope on the pvc exhaust. I bet that thing would be really burning incorrect if you did a combustion test. Incorrect install and design causes more issues than you'd think. Bet that flue is the cause for all that water backing up.
Yes those induced draft motors are notorious to lock up over a humid summer. I normally use a little spray penetrating oil on the bearings and give the customer the option to replace it ( because obviously there would be no warranty on my service call unless they did ). I wasn't so much concerned about the electrical extension cord but did you see that crappy gas line installation ? (2 lbs system plus crappy installation, I wouldn't be able to sleep at night doing work like that.🤮). Ted, when people do work like that in your community, you should have enough work for three lifetimes.
Why would you force a 2 stage furnace to only run on stage 2? Even if you don't want to run a 2 stage wire for a new thermostat, atleast use the built in delay feature to run stage 1 & 2 via timer. I'm proud to be called a "hack" installer if this is what a "pro" does.
After watching more of the video, I bet forcing it to 2 stage heat all the time, without delay, has probably led to this early failure. More stress on startup.
@@shawnd567 I cannot agree with you because I don't know the sequence of operation of this particular furnace but it was made to run on 2 stages.
Should defiantly take the time to pull a stat wire with enough conductors and/or install the correct thermostat. It's a shame to have that nice of a system and be wired to run no different than a much cheaper model.
Test for voltage
You need to oil the blower motor
that is a sealed bearing what you are saying is a temporary fix.water is the problem there
most don't have oil ports
I guess it wasn’t too hard to stop that Trane!
Whoever installed that must not know you don’t trap condensate on positive pressure. Not the worst I’ve seen. Wouldn’t pass in ohio though
Bluon, I heard about it…and can’t afford it.
hmmm , look at the condensate buried in the dirt
In Canada that person would loose their license for that install. I'm ready to puke
Could Have Put a Basement In There...
dont b lookin 4 trobel cowboy teddddy
I don’t know what it is about American standard high-efficiency furnace inducers, they always seem to get some type of epoxy or something down in there that seizes the motor. I have walked up to so many of those things that were not working, pulled the inducer off and then started spinning the wheel and chunks of a white/off-white epoxy fell out and then everything worked good.
👍👍👍🎸🎸🎸...
The way your guys ran that drain Realllly bugs me.
👍
Thank God I thumbed up or you might have been stuck on 666 likes.
😎👍😎👍😎👍😎👍😎👍
Much too complicated for heating. Simplicity.
LoL
👍