Awesome job. I've bred fish before and always had to do water changes manually. I couldn't expand anymore due to the amount of labor in changing water and the crazy time consumption. This was 15 years ago or so ago. This makes me think of going back into the hobby and also a second source of income. This is a great setup.
Wow. What a,world of information. My head is still spinnin' haha. Will be watching several more times to fully digest. Thanks for the detailed run down
So funny Steve. I was in the process of doing this exact type system before I moved. I had the shower valve install and used it for individual tank changes. I just had a baby and needed to spend less time in the fish room. So I planned on an automatic change system to spend more time with the family. I was gonna use a sprinkler also. Super nice to do changes and fish room maintenance without even being in there. Good job.
My friend hopefully you don't live in a freezing temperatures place, am a plumber and I recommend always use CPVC inside the home it can hold up to 300 psi I believe and even more in cold water. Nice Job by the way ,very nice layout
Hi Steve that big aquarium is looking good. When I used a chlorine filter for the first time I thought the fish were behaving less nervous and they were growing and breeding much better...
Excellent work on this project. Word to wise...make sure to buy extra solenoid valve assemblies as in a couple of years the manufacturer changes the specs and you will have to cut out the bad bad valve as opposed to just replacing the gasket/seal/valve.
Steve if the fish business ever gets slow you can come help me plumb! haha nice work man. The shower valve as a substitute for a mixing valve is clever as well, a cheaper and just as effective route.
Fantastic job! Have you considered using longer fresh water supply lines to bring the end of the tubing toward the bottom of the tank, under the water? That might further minimize the amount of new water being removed.
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Know that another fishkeeper will be using ideas from this video when I design my fishroom auto-water change solution.
Thanks Steve. I have been watching all of your videos for years. Just one question, how do you initiate the drainage process? Sure it seems pretty straight forward, the water drains via gravity , but how to get that started seems to be missing somewhere? As far as RaiBird systems are concerned I don’t see how they would “initiate s siphon” they are used only for the filling of the tanks and filtering out the impurities in the water as the tanks are filling up. So, is your system a semi-auth fill . I want to try and get this going but I’m stuck on now the actual drainage of the tanks works. Thanks and keep up the great videos, I am looking forward to seeing more. MrOz!
Thanks for watching all this time! The new water just displaced the old water via the overflow in each tank. So there isn’t really anything to initiate on that side. It’s not a 100% efficient water change but the automation makes it worth it.
Great video! I'm planning out a water change delivery system now and wondering how water tight those plastic flow control valves drilled into the pvc are? (Think they're from Jemhco) Do they ever leak at all?
Awesome Steve! I don't have a basement to setup in, but I do have a crawl space. So I wonder if I could modify this to run from my water source in the garage, under the house, to my fish room? Thank you for sharing! This is very reactive and inspiring!
+Stevo Hoppa thank you sir. For the record, if your wife asks, I said no. But the beauty of this is that you could run it anywhere. If you go through the crawl space you may want to insulate the pvc depending on how cold it gets in there.
Great setup and video!..Nicely done! Too bad this those solenoid valves won’t work for saltwater ..perhaps o could design a similar system using motorized gate or ball valves. I’m thinking something like this: I drill and install a drain valve in my sump’s return chamber (with motorized ball valve controlled by my Apex controller)..then once return pump is switched off, the top level of water from display tank that fills up that chamber (until siphon break) can be drained out with the motorized drain valve. New saltwater is then filled using a timer and the motorized valve would close after timer stops the new water input..to ensure exact same water level is achieved before the main return pump switches back on. I’d think this would be fairly simple and failsafe right? In the event the motorized ball vale fails I’d make sure the amount of changed water would cause a flood. Thanks for video and the inspiration! Cheers
The description on the filter says it works when at 0.5 gallons per minute. How do you keep below that mark? If using more flow, wouldn't you need more filters in parallel? Perhaps there is a larger version that handles more flow.
Steve. Finally figured out that my leaks are coming from the threaded pvc connectors between each filter. They seat all the way to the filter housing and thus don’t ever really get tightened. I’ve looked at your video but don’t see what you used to connect the 3.
HELL OF A JOB MAN! this video could have been 1hr long and i would have watched.. Only question is Have is how did you automate water being removed from the tanks? Not sure if you said that or not in the vid...
+CJ'S AQUARIUMS thanks CJ. The tanks all have overflows that lead to a drain so the old water just flows out as the new water flows in. Really dig what you've been up to lately btw.
hello steve loving your video on your water change system i no it's along time ago but i'm attempting to do the same type of system could you please send me a list of supplies used especially the shower valve i'd really appreciate it thank's
Question, why did you not put one pressure reducing valve on your incoming supply to the water change system which then alleviates the need for 3 extra units and using one on each circut?
I keep looking at that White lipped Cichlid... Man they're beautiful. This is a beautiful system. Thanks for the video. I forgot to ask.... How did you support the 220 UPSTAIRS? Do you have supports from the basement?
So do you have to remineralize the water? Or do the carbon filters not affect that? Looking to use a system like this but don't know if the filters would strip my nice hard water of all its trace elements. Would rather not have to dose buffers etc.
Can you do a video showing how your auto water changer runs on your 300 gallon tank? Like how do you automatically start the draining of your tank to do the change?
You know you're a complete blockhead when you come away from a video as thoroughly informative as this one, only to have learned how to properly apply the infamous teflon tape to the threaded piece of pipe. Oh, how I've been doing it all wrong, Thank You, Steve.
So how much/long do you have timer set for for changes? 10% a day? Or just for time periods? And how has it changed your siphoning schedule for each tank? Great work Steve, certainly one of the more thorough and informative youtubers out there!
Steve. I’ve had my similar system running for about 2 months now. I run about 40 to 50 gallons a day through the filters...how often should they be changed?
Steve. I’m building this system for discus tanks. What fittings did you use to connect the filters together? Trying to see but looks like a fitting that’s threaded on both ends. I want to keep the space between them to a minimum
I am in the process of redesign. Here is my question: If I run 3/4" for my main line from the irrigation value to the rack, then install the small plastic valves... how many of those valves can I use on 1 run before the output at one end of the run is less than the beginning of the run. Basically - what is the capacity?
A check valve generally does not relief pressure. If there is little flow, a check valve is not tight enough to have any impact on pressure. (no matter how clogged a pressurized system is, the pressure is the same). If there is significantly fast flow, the pressure drop (due to friction) is experienced in the other direction-- the other end of the check valve. What reduces pressure is a pressure regulator. Lower pressure is safer for a fish room for less chance of leak or rupture, but feed into an RO unit (if present) has to be high to get the rated GPD per the membrane.
Not to be a party pooper but I would use clear pvc primer as well. It makes a difference especially if that preventing your basement from flooding. It really does add holding power.
Great step by step process Steve. Is there any math behind your timed fills? Such as, how much water feeds through a certain diameter per minute? Or did you run tests on each size tank? Thanks
+AJK Aquaria thanks Adam. The valves are rated at 10gph due to the diameter I believe. I'm actually still working out the exact timing and plan to do tests to make sure I'm getting the amount that's expected.
Thanks man. It's a great project and something that saves so much time. I'm going to see if I can get this posted on the cichlid-forum home page. They cycle news and videos there every few days.
Steve, I’m trying to build an auto water changing system like you have built, but I have a question regarding the drain system part of it. Would I be able to have 2 bulkheads drilled in each tank, one for a standpipe overflow and another about halfway down the glass with a rainbird solenoid behind it to open up the drain for the water change. This way I could run the rainbird for a minute or two to drain the water and then have the rainbird system fill the water to avoid having to mix the old water with the new. Would a solenoid on the drain work and would I need to also add a check valve for that portion? Thanks
+kurtr12 that's actually a really cool idea. I think that having the two separate overflows is key though. Because if the drain solenoid failed then you would have a backup overflow. Definitely do not do a check valve on the drain side though. I made that mistake once. With a check valve you need enough pressure to keep it open and and a drain will not do that. Seriously great idea!
The solenoid valves on the drains did not end up working. The solenoids require a certain amount of water pressure in order to be opened. The water pressure of the draining aquarium water was not enough to open it. So I just did the exact same build you did, but I now have 2 overflows on each aquarium. No big deal. Always good to have a backup.
Hey Steve, Great videos and a great setup. I have a problem and maybe you can help. All of a sudden my well water has high nitrates and therefore my tanks have high nitrates. Any idea what I should do? RO/DI then add buffers? Seachem denitrate? Biopelllet reactor? Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you.
+JW Collect is it something you can fix at the source? RO filtration works but produces a lot of waste water. Denitrate isn't going to remove enough. There are reactors but that's a pretty extreme solution
The only way to fix the well water is to put it through a rodi unit then I have to add buffers, etc which I would rather not do. Funny thing is I've had Comps, Julie's and cyprochromis spawn. Have you ever used a bio pellet reactor or a fluidized bed? Thanks
Steve Poland Cichlids Thank you for not only the great video but I love the extra work you put into making the kit list. I feel it is do handy and unique it really sets you apart.
Great Video! Apologies for chiming in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you heard about - Proutklarton Protecting Aqua Plan (should be on google have a look)? It is a smashing one off guide for getting prepared for a mega drought minus the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my cousin after many years got astronomical success with it.
Chloramine is very difficult to pre-filter with anything at any significant volume. Look into using a dosing pump to treat source water for Chloramine water supplies, with a conditioner like Prime.
Hey Steve. I put in the same system but am having a problem with leaking from a couple of the canisters where they screw together. I’ve used Vaseline but don’t want to crank them too tight. Do I need to purge more air out? I’m getting frustrated
Steve Poland Aquatics Thanks I have the wrench so I’ll crank them even tighter then. I have similar type filters but triple the size on my bait tanks for my fishing business but have never had them leak. The bottom screws into top slightly different and seems much more efficient. Always something to keep us on our toes!!
+inventoryking no it's all scheduled through the rainbird timer. The old water is overflowing the whole time (unless I've taken some out doing routine maintenance).
I was trying to figure out how this system performed everything for a water change, then I realized not everyone runs saltwater tanks... Very jealous of this system.
Steve, this was an AWESOME video. Probably one of the best you have made. Really instructional and I enjoyed it a ton. In the future I am planning to do one of these systems and I will be sure to look back at this video. A couple of questions: 1. How long did this take you and 2. If you don't mind, can you give a ball park of price?
Hey Steve. By chance do you have a diagram or schematic outlining this system? I am building a breeding room and this would be a lifesaver for time management. Plus, I am not a young fella any more and hauling buckets isn't my idea of a fun day with fish. Written plans are easier for me to follow when specing out parts lists. Lol. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer.
Nice setup ! I'm currently building a system like this for my fishroom . But I had an issue , my PH is too high for the fish i keep . Did a cartridge exist or something else could resolve this? PH out of the automatic system is 7,6 , want it around 6,8 . Thanks!
Great video! I have one question though: as far as I know, running warm water through the sediment/carbon filter may change the filter filtration properties. Have you noticed any differences in your water quality?
Steve, I am building my system based pretty much on Yours...one question- do You still have to use aby water conditioner after automatic water change? I mean when the water passes through Carbon filter from tap...
I dont think that you gonna answer me Steve but ima try ! I want to instal a filter to remove my chloramine like you but i want to know if you have to add mineral to your water ?!
Those filters sound like they remove hardness... wouldn't that mean that the hardness fluctuates whenever new water flows in until the sand or whatever hardens it up again?
They don't soften the water. Not unless you use an RO filter as well, which strips everything. It's a standard HMA filter which will remove dirt, chlorine and metal contaminants. It will also remove chloramine and the ammonia bound to it. You can also use the filtered water for drinking :)
There will still be metals, sediment and other small pollutants, you can't avoid it. They will be adding something to stop bacteria growing in the pipes, probably chloramine. They just may not do it all the time.
Every time I think you run a out of space in that tiny little basement of yours, you find more room for more equipment. What an awesome project Steve, great job. I'm sure you are checking and double checking for leaks. How are you connecting the brass and pvc together? Also, how do your tanks drain automatically before filled, did I miss that? Or are you just relying on the overflow drains from your auto water drip system? If so, aren't you dumping some mixed new water with the old?
The brass goes to pex and then the pex goes over to the water change system. The tanks don't drain automatically, they just overflow. It does dump some new mixed with old but it's very low maintenance compared to trying to drain water first.
Isn't that just a mixing valve? In my area the cold water tap temperature can be decently lower in the winter... Which in turn would mean the mixed temp would be lower. The valves I have put in during remodeling always had a limit control for the hot side which limits the amount of water that can come from the hot water line. But it doesn't adjust based on the temperature flowing through it like a thermostatic valve would do.
Your system being in the basement and near the hot water tank you probably don't have an issue with the time lapsed between the start of water and the time it takes for the hot water to actually reach the system. But if the system was used say on the main floor and on a series of 10 or 20 gallon tanks where the water changes were faster would there be an issue?
This video is still so helpful. I've watched it so many times setting up my fishroom. Wish there was some new videos 😂. Thank you
Same here!
This is the best, most well-explained video of this water change system that I've seen! Thank you!
Hi. At time stamp 9:10, what is that clear plastic strip called and/or where did you get it? Love the detailed video.
Awesome job. I've bred fish before and always had to do water changes manually. I couldn't expand anymore due to the amount of labor in changing water and the crazy time consumption. This was 15 years ago or so ago. This makes me think of going back into the hobby and also a second source of income. This is a great setup.
This all definitely makes your water changes so much easier ... you've done a great job Steve and you explained it all so well 🤗🤗
+PsychedelicBabe thanks PB!
This is one of the best video walk-tho on a water change system
Wow. What a,world of information. My head is still spinnin' haha. Will be watching several more times to fully digest. Thanks for the detailed run down
+Cichlid Soldier no problem, glad you liked it Frankie
Wow man!
Awesome video again!
I wish I had a big fish room!
Your tanks are looking so nice!
*_Keep up the good work and thumbs up!_*
+Danny's Aquariums thanks Danny
+Steve Poland Cichlids your welcome!
So funny Steve. I was in the process of doing this exact type system before I moved. I had the shower valve install and used it for individual tank changes. I just had a baby and needed to spend less time in the fish room. So I planned on an automatic change system to spend more time with the family. I was gonna use a sprinkler also. Super nice to do changes and fish room maintenance without even being in there. Good job.
+LVcichlids thanks! The point of this was really to spend more time with the family and not have to downsize. It was just getting to be too much.
Steve Poland Cichlids I completely agree. That was my exact purpose as well.
My friend hopefully you don't live in a freezing temperatures place, am a plumber and I recommend always use CPVC inside the home it can hold up to 300 psi I believe and even more in cold water. Nice Job by the way ,very nice layout
I am so glad I found this, as I am currently working on building a fish room!
+Mile Hi Freshwater cool, let me know if you have questions
You made this really ready to understand man I appreciate it alot. Keep up the great work bro
Hi Steve that big aquarium is looking good. When I used a chlorine filter for the first time I thought the fish were behaving less nervous and they were growing and breeding much better...
Excellent work on this project. Word to wise...make sure to buy extra solenoid valve assemblies as in a couple of years the manufacturer changes the specs and you will have to cut out the bad bad valve as opposed to just replacing the gasket/seal/valve.
Love your videos, instructional, clear and rigth down to the point! Thanks
Very well done Steve
I really need something like that too...Thanks
+chuck thanks Chuck
Awesome system, the one I'm working on used to be very similar and ran into similar issues you discussed at the end. Awesome videos too, great detail
very cool and convenient system thanx for sharing Steve!!
+Jacob Chrem thanks Jacob
Great breakdown and well-produced video. Thanks for sharing.
+PseudoAccurate thanks!
Very well explained, feels easy to redo your project. Now I just wish I could hide the pipes in the living room haha.
This video helped a lot! Thanks so much for this, we are building or store's fish room right now and using this method!
well done Steve! great job explaining your project definitely one for the books
+Floyd Conrad thanks Floyd, glad you enjoyed it
I gotta say that's impressive! I have 7 tanks currently and am planning out a similar system but on a smaller scale. This is super super helpful! :)
+Bear Necessities awesome! It really works on any number of tanks which was part of the appeal for me
Nice video Im a big fan, all your videos are always well thought out...and your tanks and fish stocks are always amazing. Nice job Steve..
+Chris Smith / Siklid guy thanks, much appreciated!
Great video with well organised content! Great work mate! 👍🏻
+Viknesvaran thanks!
Great Set-up Steve. You are giving me some great ideas for when i move into my new house.
+Alen B great, glad you got something out of it
You have a great Instructional Video voice!
+Christian Postier thanks!
Steve if the fish business ever gets slow you can come help me plumb! haha nice work man. The shower valve as a substitute for a mixing valve is clever as well, a cheaper and just as effective route.
+Mbuna Territory thanks Harry! I'm just figuring out all of this plumbing as I go. Glad to hear I didn't screw anything up.
Nice. Thanks for posting this. I will be trying something like this in the near future.
Fantastic job! Have you considered using longer fresh water supply lines to bring the end of the tubing toward the bottom of the tank, under the water? That might further minimize the amount of new water being removed.
Excellent video! Thanks for being so concise too. Super clean work
Nice work and thanks for sharing. Know that another fishkeeper will be using ideas from this video when I design my fishroom auto-water change solution.
+MR Oz great, that’s what I did. Let me know if you have questions
Thanks Steve. I have been watching all of your videos for years. Just one question, how do you initiate the drainage process? Sure it seems pretty straight forward, the water drains via gravity , but how to get that started seems to be missing somewhere? As far as RaiBird systems are concerned I don’t see how they would “initiate s siphon” they are used only for the filling of the tanks and filtering out the impurities in the water as the tanks are filling up. So, is your system a semi-auth fill . I want to try and get this going but I’m stuck on now the actual drainage of the tanks works. Thanks and keep up the great videos, I am looking forward to seeing more. MrOz!
Thanks for watching all this time! The new water just displaced the old water via the overflow in each tank. So there isn’t really anything to initiate on that side. It’s not a 100% efficient water change but the automation makes it worth it.
Thank you so much for answering so swiftly, looking forward to more of your videos, they're truly a pleasure to watch. Cheers!
nice one! great job capturing all the steps, easy to follow
+Greg Jones thanks!
Great video! I'm planning out a water change delivery system now and wondering how water tight those plastic flow control valves drilled into the pvc are? (Think they're from Jemhco) Do they ever leak at all?
Thanks so much this video is so informative can't tell how much,nicely presented ,in your debt😥😥😷😷THANKS!!
+jemetta cooper awesome, glad you found it helpful
That is a great idea to use a sprinkling system!
+Richard Stock I can't claim it as my original idea but I'm trying to bring it to the masses
Great vid! Please keep em coming!
+Anxious Aquatics thanks, I will try!
Awesome Steve! I don't have a basement to setup in, but I do have a crawl space. So I wonder if I could modify this to run from my water source in the garage, under the house, to my fish room?
Thank you for sharing! This is very reactive and inspiring!
+Stevo Hoppa thank you sir. For the record, if your wife asks, I said no. But the beauty of this is that you could run it anywhere. If you go through the crawl space you may want to insulate the pvc depending on how cold it gets in there.
Great setup and video!..Nicely done!
Too bad this those solenoid valves won’t work for saltwater ..perhaps o could design a similar system using motorized gate or ball valves.
I’m thinking something like this:
I drill and install a drain valve in my sump’s return chamber (with motorized ball valve controlled by my Apex controller)..then once return pump is switched off, the top level of water from display tank that fills up that chamber (until siphon break) can be drained out with the motorized drain valve. New saltwater is then filled using a timer and the motorized valve would close after timer stops the new water input..to ensure exact same water level is achieved before the main return pump switches back on. I’d think this would be fairly simple and failsafe right? In the event the motorized ball vale fails I’d make sure the amount of changed water would cause a flood.
Thanks for video and the inspiration!
Cheers
Very detailed video. Thanks for sharing.
+Ruy Vilela thanks!
The description on the filter says it works when at 0.5 gallons per minute. How do you keep below that mark? If using more flow, wouldn't you need more filters in parallel? Perhaps there is a larger version that handles more flow.
Steve, can you show how you plumbed this system to/from your 220? Excellent video, as usual...keep up the good work!
+Lucas Fletcher I just have a length of irrigation tubing going up through the wall to that tank.
AWESOME VIDEO! This is sooooo helpful for setting up my own system!
Congrats on 100k
Steve. Finally figured out that my leaks are coming from the threaded pvc connectors between each filter. They seat all the way to the filter housing and thus don’t ever really get tightened. I’ve looked at your video but don’t see what you used to connect the 3.
great info Steve. u have give me some things to consider
+Cameraz Eye hit me up if you have questions
Awesome. Thank you so much.
HELL OF A JOB MAN! this video could have been 1hr long and i would have watched.. Only question is Have is how did you automate water being removed from the tanks? Not sure if you said that or not in the vid...
+CJ'S AQUARIUMS thanks CJ. The tanks all have overflows that lead to a drain so the old water just flows out as the new water flows in. Really dig what you've been up to lately btw.
Great video and system. Good job Steve!
+Reggie's H&P Cichlids thanks Reggie
really nice build
+Reid Smith thanks!
hello steve loving your video on your water change system i no it's along time ago but i'm attempting to do the same type of system could you please send me a list of supplies used especially the shower valve i'd really appreciate it thank's
kit.com/stevepoland/fishroom-auto-water-change-system
great vid would love to try rhis system in the future with my tank
Question, why did you not put one pressure reducing valve on your incoming supply to the water change system which then alleviates the need for 3 extra units and using one on each circut?
I keep looking at that White lipped Cichlid... Man they're beautiful.
This is a beautiful system. Thanks for the video.
I forgot to ask.... How did you support the 220 UPSTAIRS? Do you have supports from the basement?
So do you have to remineralize the water? Or do the carbon filters not affect that? Looking to use a system like this but don't know if the filters would strip my nice hard water of all its trace elements. Would rather not have to dose buffers etc.
Can you do a video showing how your auto water changer runs on your 300 gallon tank? Like how do you automatically start the draining of your tank to do the change?
Thx for a look behind..very nice explained. .thanks that for
You know you're a complete blockhead when you come away from a video as thoroughly informative as this one, only to have learned how to properly apply the infamous teflon tape to the threaded piece of pipe. Oh, how I've been doing it all wrong, Thank You, Steve.
+wyzemann hey we're all always learning new things
It's been awhile, curious how the filters hold up with warm water running through them as opposed to the cold incoming city feed.
can you do a video of it in action changing the water? like draining and then filling automatically? great quality videos
+Lee Wheeler thanks. I will show these in action more in future videos
Nice setup !! how do you drain your tanks automaticly ? !
He answered that question during the first minute of the video
So how much/long do you have timer set for for changes? 10% a day? Or just for time periods? And how has it changed your siphoning schedule for each tank? Great work Steve, certainly one of the more thorough and informative youtubers out there!
Thanks, it is helpful. But, I didn't get it how the old water will move out of tank.
Steve. I’ve had my similar system running for about 2 months now. I run about 40 to 50 gallons a day through the filters...how often should they be changed?
Steve. I’m building this system for discus tanks. What fittings did you use to connect the filters together? Trying to see but looks like a fitting that’s threaded on both ends. I want to keep the space between them to a minimum
I am in the process of redesign. Here is my question: If I run 3/4" for my main line from the irrigation value to the rack, then install the small plastic valves... how many of those valves can I use on 1 run before the output at one end of the run is less than the beginning of the run. Basically - what is the capacity?
A check valve generally does not relief pressure. If there is little flow, a check valve is not tight enough to have any impact on pressure. (no matter how clogged a pressurized system is, the pressure is the same). If there is significantly fast flow, the pressure drop (due to friction) is experienced in the other direction-- the other end of the check valve.
What reduces pressure is a pressure regulator.
Lower pressure is safer for a fish room for less chance of leak or rupture, but feed into an RO unit (if present) has to be high to get the rated GPD per the membrane.
This system has both check valves and pressure regulators. The check valves aren’t intended to affect forward pressure.
Not to be a party pooper but I would use clear pvc primer as well. It makes a difference especially if that preventing your basement from flooding. It really does add holding power.
Great step by step process Steve.
Is there any math behind your timed fills? Such as, how much water feeds through a certain diameter per minute? Or did you run tests on each size tank?
Thanks
+AJK Aquaria thanks Adam. The valves are rated at 10gph due to the diameter I believe. I'm actually still working out the exact timing and plan to do tests to make sure I'm getting the amount that's expected.
Thanks man.
It's a great project and something that saves so much time. I'm going to see if I can get this posted on the cichlid-forum home page. They cycle news and videos there every few days.
AJK Aquaria wow, thanks. That would be awesome.
Steve,
I’m trying to build an auto water changing system like you have built, but I have a question regarding the drain system part of it. Would I be able to have 2 bulkheads drilled in each tank, one for a standpipe overflow and another about halfway down the glass with a rainbird solenoid behind it to open up the drain for the water change. This way I could run the rainbird for a minute or two to drain the water and then have the rainbird system fill the water to avoid having to mix the old water with the new. Would a solenoid on the drain work and would I need to also add a check valve for that portion?
Thanks
+kurtr12 that's actually a really cool idea. I think that having the two separate overflows is key though. Because if the drain solenoid failed then you would have a backup overflow. Definitely do not do a check valve on the drain side though. I made that mistake once. With a check valve you need enough pressure to keep it open and and a drain will not do that. Seriously great idea!
Steve Poland Cichlids I'm building the setup I described. I'll let you know how it goes once I'm finished and I'll post a video of it in operation.
The solenoid valves on the drains did not end up working. The solenoids require a certain amount of water pressure in order to be opened. The water pressure of the draining aquarium water was not enough to open it. So I just did the exact same build you did, but I now have 2 overflows on each aquarium. No big deal. Always good to have a backup.
Hey Steve, Great videos and a great setup. I have a problem and maybe you can help. All of a sudden my well water has high nitrates and therefore my tanks have high nitrates. Any idea what I should do? RO/DI then add buffers? Seachem denitrate? Biopelllet reactor? Any recommendations would be appreciated. Thank you.
+JW Collect is it something you can fix at the source? RO filtration works but produces a lot of waste water. Denitrate isn't going to remove enough. There are reactors but that's a pretty extreme solution
The only way to fix the well water is to put it through a rodi unit then I have to add buffers, etc which I would rather not do. Funny thing is I've had Comps, Julie's and cyprochromis spawn. Have you ever used a bio pellet reactor or a fluidized bed? Thanks
Links to the supplies needed for this project:
kit.co/stevepoland/fishroom-auto-water-change-system
Steve Poland Cichlids Thank you for not only the great video but I love the extra work you put into making the kit list. I feel it is do handy and unique it really sets you apart.
Great Video! Apologies for chiming in, I would love your initial thoughts. Have you heard about - Proutklarton Protecting Aqua Plan (should be on google have a look)? It is a smashing one off guide for getting prepared for a mega drought minus the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my cousin after many years got astronomical success with it.
Chloramine is very difficult to pre-filter with anything at any significant volume. Look into using a dosing pump to treat source water for Chloramine water supplies, with a conditioner like Prime.
Hey Steve. I put in the same system but am having a problem with leaking from a couple of the canisters where they screw together. I’ve used Vaseline but don’t want to crank them too tight. Do I need to purge more air out? I’m getting frustrated
I crank mine super tight. They even came with a tool to use to tighten. Never had them leak.
Steve Poland Aquatics Thanks I have the wrench so I’ll crank them even tighter then. I have similar type filters but triple the size on my bait tanks for my fishing business but have never had them leak. The bottom screws into top slightly different and seems much more efficient. Always something to keep us on our toes!!
Genius, your videos are excellent
+Greg Saveall thanks Greg!
Sweet video Steve. Do you have float switches in the tanks allowing the water to stop flowing in during the water change?
+inventoryking no it's all scheduled through the rainbird timer. The old water is overflowing the whole time (unless I've taken some out doing routine maintenance).
Really nice setup.
not sure what it is but something is telling me this guy really likes fish
+pinguiin guilty
I was trying to figure out how this system performed everything for a water change, then I realized not everyone runs saltwater tanks... Very jealous of this system.
Steve, this was an AWESOME video. Probably one of the best you have made. Really instructional and I enjoyed it a ton. In the future I am planning to do one of these systems and I will be sure to look back at this video. A couple of questions: 1. How long did this take you and 2. If you don't mind, can you give a ball park of price?
+binklez90 I did this slowly over a few months. If I added everything together it was probably a few hundred dollars.
Hey Steve. By chance do you have a diagram or schematic outlining this system? I am building a breeding room and this would be a lifesaver for time management. Plus, I am not a young fella any more and hauling buckets isn't my idea of a fun day with fish. Written plans are easier for me to follow when specing out parts lists. Lol. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to offer.
Great video and an awesome project.
+Ivan Kolić thanks!
wow this impressive system and i hope to be able to do the same with my tank.
Nice setup ! I'm currently building a system like this for my fishroom . But I had an issue , my PH is too high for the fish i keep . Did a cartridge exist or something else could resolve this? PH out of the automatic system is 7,6 , want it around 6,8 . Thanks!
For the 25 PSI regulator did you need to get a FHT adapter?
Awesome project ! Great info and plumbing knowledge ! Is that what you do for your day job?
+Evan Dick thanks! No, I have a desk job. I've just been learning the plumbing as I go and trying to share so that others can do the same.
I'm interested in knowing how do you control how much water leave and enters each tank?
Looking good Steve!
Great video! I have one question though: as far as I know, running warm water through the sediment/carbon filter may change the filter filtration properties. Have you noticed any differences in your water quality?
+sethallah haven't noticed any issues
I have a suggestion I use pvc in a lot of projects and make sure to also use pvc primer as well as pvc cement
I used to use it too. Give this a read:
www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html
Brilliant Steve!
I noticed that you refer to the 3rd cartridge as a 5 micron CTO Plus Carbon. The cartridge in your demo was listed as 0.6 microns. Which is correct?
Steve, I am building my system based pretty much on Yours...one question- do You still have to use aby water conditioner after automatic water change? I mean when the water passes through Carbon filter from tap...
No
Steve Poland Cichlids thanks alot!
I dont think that you gonna answer me Steve but ima try ! I want to instal a filter to remove my chloramine like you but i want to know if you have to add mineral to your water ?!
I’ve never had chloramines, just chlorine, but no I don’t have to add minerals to the water
That's going to help a lot Great video
+Chad Hardesty great to hear, thanks Chad
Those filters sound like they remove hardness... wouldn't that mean that the hardness fluctuates whenever new water flows in until the sand or whatever hardens it up again?
They don't soften the water. Not unless you use an RO filter as well, which strips everything. It's a standard HMA filter which will remove dirt, chlorine and metal contaminants. It will also remove chloramine and the ammonia bound to it.
You can also use the filtered water for drinking :)
@@BlatentlyFakeName good thing I live in a country where it is illegal to have any of that in the tap water hehe
There will still be metals, sediment and other small pollutants, you can't avoid it.
They will be adding something to stop bacteria growing in the pipes, probably chloramine. They just may not do it all the time.
Every time I think you run a out of space in that tiny little basement of yours, you find more room for more equipment. What an awesome project Steve, great job. I'm sure you are checking and double checking for leaks. How are you connecting the brass and pvc together? Also, how do your tanks drain automatically before filled, did I miss that? Or are you just relying on the overflow drains from your auto water drip system? If so, aren't you dumping some mixed new water with the old?
The brass goes to pex and then the pex goes over to the water change system. The tanks don't drain automatically, they just overflow. It does dump some new mixed with old but it's very low maintenance compared to trying to drain water first.
Wow Steve, very informative video, Good job!!!
P.S. Do you happen to have a parts breakdown lists?
Isn't that just a mixing valve? In my area the cold water tap temperature can be decently lower in the winter... Which in turn would mean the mixed temp would be lower. The valves I have put in during remodeling always had a limit control for the hot side which limits the amount of water that can come from the hot water line. But it doesn't adjust based on the temperature flowing through it like a thermostatic valve would do.
Awesome job and great project
Your system being in the basement and near the hot water tank you probably don't have an issue with the time lapsed between the start of water and the time it takes for the hot water to actually reach the system.
But if the system was used say on the main floor and on a series of 10 or 20 gallon tanks where the water changes were faster would there be an issue?