As a dedicated flambient shooter, I'm glad to learn HDR Editing from you. Normally everyone just outsources their edits and they no longer look real. These pics look great!
Finally got around to trying this today. Found much better results not using HDR, but by using a light ambient, and dark window exposure. Also a flash shot (or two blended into one file). Brush in the luminosity masked ambient shots over top of the flash shot, and it was perfect. It was a luxury condo that was all glass and metal windows so the darken mode window pull wouldn't work, Lumenzia SAVES me on this -- I've never known what to do in these situations other than selecting the windows manually. My Lumenzia panel only shows L, M, and D though, no numbers which is a bummer and I cant figure it out.
Hi mate. Glad you've found a technique that's working for you. Yeah many ways to get to a nice exposure blend result. I'm going to be covering more techniques on the channel as different folks have different workflows and software too. Cheers for watching and commenting!
Fair point Armin! I'm working on another image right now and doing a recording where I take a similar approach, but the luminosity corrections will be done completely in Lightroom.
I think I could manage that! Stay tuned and I'll see what I can put together. Anyone else wanting to pick up Lumenzia you can get it here: bit.ly/3dpGeub And if you're interested in exposure blending Greg Benz's comprehensive course (also found in the link) is second to none!
hi Anthony! very fine result! I only think that the work on the window is a little difficult or slow when I think at the window pull with the flash...when you think that could be irregular and difficult table, wall or something from the window to you, it couuld be difficult to do it!
Hi Anthony. Why lightroom HDR merge give same result 3 -5 - 7 or 9 bracket. I tried with 3 exposure +2 / -2 stop and also 9 exposure wit +/- 1 stop and boom exactly same result. Have ever tried it?
Sir i have one request been following your videos since 3 days , Many of us have just started photoshop , it would very kind of you to explain in details all the layers u make , and how they function its very confusing as whats going on with layers
I'll try. It's a tough audience on youtube because some folks are pros and get bored by the details (and therefore leave an otherwise informative video) and some folks are new and need everything covered in detail. It's a hard line to walk to keep everyone happy.
Great tutorial Anthony! I would be very much interested to see your Luminar AI preset in detail. Also, do you have any info on when we can expect the same preset functionality in Neo?
Hi. They're kinda different beasts really. Lightroom will smoosh the bracketed exposures into one big 32bit dng file, but it's up to you to get the best out of that file and bring back the exposure in certain parts appropriately. Aurora can spit out a lovely 16bit tiff file, perfect for working on, but the benefit is it's already done the hard work of bringing back the over/under exposed areas where needed.
The proof you sent to the client, which is the one you use to copy the settings to the merged HDR files, was a single exposure with basic settings, meaning "base" exposure (ambient) with the exposure indicator on "zero" ...? thanks! ;)
love the tutorial if i was on one to 2 images but usually hand over 30 images min for each property shoot 3 to 4 properties per day and hand over within 24 hours but shoot everyday 15 properties per week on a good week. Wish there was a quicker way . Problem i get is tonal problems around window seals. When just editing and merging in light room. Get the shadow black cast on white window frames.
I'm confused by your technique of manually brushing over areas in a new mask. Surely the heavy lifting should have been done within Lumenzia by choosing a better exposure blending mask in the 2st place
Hi Johnny. The point of the Lumenzia mask (bit.ly/3dpGeub) is to give us that ability to bring back the exterior exposure with control. Regardless of the Lumenzia mask setting there will inadvertently be some effect over sections of the interior. This usually results in a flattening of contrast in the interior sections of the photo, which isn't what we want. No matter how minimal. So, by using a very quick mask over the top of the heavy lifting by Lumenzia we get the best of both worlds, excellent contrast maintained in the interior, plus the reintroduction of the exterior. My recommendation would be to try the technique a few times without any double masking and you'll see what I mean.
First of all, thanks for the video and the amazing content in your channel. New subscriber here and also new in real estate photography. I'm a professional landscape photographer from Spain and really wanna get into this real estate photography too. Like it so much. Question, you mention on the video about some presets and templates you have for lightroom and also for Luminar. Do you have for sale? I can't find it on your website. Looking forward to hearing from you. Thanks a lot Jabi Sanz
Hi Jabi! Thanks for reaching out. The templates are kickstarters for lightroom and image finishers for Luminar. I've shown how to create a couple of them in other videos but currently don't have them for sale. I am considering putting some packs together though....
No worries dude. 👍 I learnt through years of trial and error and initially getting some very old books out of the library. After that I spent a lot of $$$ on online education and then got frustrated that I could teach the instructors a thing or two... Anyway, now I just want to help others and share what I know. 😀
Great video, new subscriber! I just purchased Lumenzia, but my panel doesn't have the "L2, L3, etc" options underneath the D, M, L ranges. Did you do something to make those visible? Thanks Anthony!
Hi mate, there are a couple of versions of view mode that you can change for the panel. Perhaps you have the "lite" view active? The help files are pretty extensive and should hold the key.
TBH with storage so cheap these days I'll usually save as a .psd (or .psb if it's over 2gb) and not flatten. It rarely (perhaps never) happens but if a client isn't happy with a shot I can go back in and have access to all of the data. Once everything is delivered I might still keep those layers and the file just incase!
Yeah, gotta love that shortcut eh. It's always seemed odd to me that such a useful feature of merging layers into one has such a convoluted hotkey combo!
Hello sir, thank you so much for this. I shoot RE and Architecture in LA and OC in California, I've shot everything from Celebrity homes to Mobile homes. I am busy, edit all of my own photos and completely independent. That being said I am always looking for time saving tips or ways to do my edits better in about the same amount of time as I am now. I have always wondered how people are able to grab certain frequencies of luminance without effecting unintended areas. I have almost completely given up on isolating luminance in LR. I have not tried the plugin yet but seeing how well that plugin grabbed the outdoor frequencies of luminance is really impressive. I clicked the link and plan on purchasing it, hopefully supporting you and your channel. I do have one question. Do all of those links support your channel? And if so would you mind sharing how you worked out all of those referrals links with a channel of your size? I say this as a smaller, but similarly sized channel. And as such, if there is an opportunity to collaborate for anything in field or even a remote editing session. If I can ever provide any value to you, I am certainly open to it. Thanks again for this great info.
Thanks Justin. yes I use affiliate links to help support the channel and time I spend on it. Mostly companies have reached out others I've researched if it's a product I love to use (like the luminosity panel). Thanks for the collab offer. Refreshing to have someone offering to add value rather than just asking for help which is the norm. Kudos man.
When I apply the luminosity mask as you do around 9:23, It adds it to the base layer and not the copy layer like yours? I this due to the newer version of Lumenzia. Can any one help?
It'll add the mask to the layer that you have selected. I may have had to cut the video so it may have missed that bit. But basically if you want to apply the mask to the highlights layer but use the base to create the mask, then select the highlight layer and set the opacity (temporarily) to zero. Then once the mask is generated and applied to that layer, then put the opacity back to 100. Hope that helps :)
Thanks for this, I was looking forward to it and it certainly doesn't disappoint. It's pixel peeping so not sure how important it is, but i found it interesting anyway. A 2018 TH-cam video by Scott Kelby finds you get better results by using Photoshop HDR merge as opposed to Lightroom (sharper). Tested again and it's still true.
Indeed, PS HDR PRO is definitely producing sharper results, however, I found some issues with colour rendering (dark orange/light brown window frame turned into ugly reddish colour) whilst LR merge was correct - at least on my test file. 5 bracketed shots with 1 stop difference.
How do you batch HDR in Lightroom or photoshop??? I have huge house 7 brackets and it's a pain just going 7 select at a time for each shot. Can I batch hdr
Hi Anthony, Is there any benefit of merging the bracketed shots into a HDR format in this way and making copies to edit for highlights and shadows vs just working on say 3 bracketed shots in PS and applying the masks to each shot? thanks
Hi. Not really. If you're going to work on the best exposures for each brightness (highlights, shadows, midtones etc.) you're better of using a different approach and just avoiding hdr. This video shows the approach I'd use for that: th-cam.com/video/RblEbqypl80/w-d-xo.html
great tutorial. however i think you took a wrong photo as a first example, because that exterior does not look too overbrighted and overall it is more natural rather than edited. i would apply this method to photos with smaller windows where the outside is blown too bright.
Imagine how much you would have to charge a client to do this when the vast majority of people can barely tell the difference between a photo taken on a phone camera with HDR and a professional camera with hours of editing. It requires amazing skills. But, nope, it's way too much work. Clients in my area would never pay me for this type of effort.
The one bit of advice I learnt after years of projecting my beliefs about what a client would or wouldn't spend was to not assume the budget of my client. This applied to weddings when initially I charged just under $1000 because I thought that was all I would pay so therefore it was all my clients would pay. I was so wrong. With every price jump I fearfully made, turned out I got better clients who were willing to pay that price. I finished in 2018 averaging $8k (nzd) per shoot. My first architecture shoot, $50 (yup, seriously). More recent ones 2-5k per job. Perhaps some people can't tell the difference between an iPhone hdr and a high-end retouch. But perhaps, they shouldn't be your client. I found when I put the quality finish into my work it organically attracted better clients who were willing to pay for better work.
I think its funny how you start off great with the tutorial, but then you introduce a tool (that cost money btw) to adjust the layer and ignore the fact that most of us dont have that tool. So now how do I get that exact selection that the tool made and not you?
Respectfully, if you're doing architectural or even real estate photography professionally but you're not willing to drop $40 on a tool that will speed up your workflow, save you time and improve your final result you're doing something wrong. If you compare an investment in your professional hard gear such as cameras, lenses, lights etc. going into the thousands, relative to that, $40 on software for the backend isn't much at all. But, you can always borrow and manipulate an alpha channel to work with luminosity that way, or use the apply image command outputting to a mask. More cumbersome , more time consuming and less control. That's why I shared the best method rather than the PS alone approach.
@@archiphotoI didnt say anything about not wanting to pay for a tool. I was a little disappointed that your title didnt mention anything about the tool you used. You could have said "How to edit your photos using this tool", but you didnt, and I watched your video up until that point and was just a little upset. Im subscribed to you and will keep watching your videos, but I'm tired of people in comments boasting videos for things when the title is misleading. Was it a good and informational video? Of course. Was it misleading? Yeah it was.
@@AnthonyTurnham it seems more saturated than the inside... If you add a tungsten or ambient yellow filter to the outside, would there be less of a color change from inside to outside? Are the home's windows tinted with a UV filter?
Thanks for your comment. Nothing to be upfront about as the panel I show isn't for my "enrichment". It's to help make your photos better. There's been no endorsement or payment to mention the Greg Benz luminosity panel. It's shown because it's what I use and thought this free video I put together might help people.
As a dedicated flambient shooter, I'm glad to learn HDR Editing from you. Normally everyone just outsources their edits and they no longer look real. These pics look great!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! Just what i needed for the color cast + so much more! Great stuff, keep it coming!
Anthony, just to say, I always learn so much from videos.
Your videos are great! Thanks.
You are the BEST!!! This is extremely helpful and well done, and your voice is easy to listen to which is huge.
Finally got around to trying this today. Found much better results not using HDR, but by using a light ambient, and dark window exposure. Also a flash shot (or two blended into one file). Brush in the luminosity masked ambient shots over top of the flash shot, and it was perfect. It was a luxury condo that was all glass and metal windows so the darken mode window pull wouldn't work, Lumenzia SAVES me on this -- I've never known what to do in these situations other than selecting the windows manually. My Lumenzia panel only shows L, M, and D though, no numbers which is a bummer and I cant figure it out.
Hi mate. Glad you've found a technique that's working for you. Yeah many ways to get to a nice exposure blend result. I'm going to be covering more techniques on the channel as different folks have different workflows and software too. Cheers for watching and commenting!
Hi Anthony Great course thanks. I will be happy to watch create preset in luminar.
Awesome video Anthony.
Great tip on the color range mask as well!
Thanks Eric 🙏
This is a really great tutorial!! 👍👍
Excellent job and thank you for showing us your methods 🙏
No worries. Thanks for the comment!
Anthony such a great channel. Love your editing techniques. I have to agree, Lumenzia is a must !
Thanks Julian! 😊
Just got the Luminar license through your link. Looking forward to playing around with it!
Thank you for addressing color cast.
would be nice to see the preset. Thanks for a good tutorial
nice video, I just expected the edit to happen in light room only, as the title is saying :)
Fair point Armin! I'm working on another image right now and doing a recording where I take a similar approach, but the luminosity corrections will be done completely in Lightroom.
you are a godsend
Thanks 😃
Great examples Anthony. Any chance of you demonstrating an edit on how to use Lumenzia? Please?
I think I could manage that! Stay tuned and I'll see what I can put together. Anyone else wanting to pick up Lumenzia you can get it here: bit.ly/3dpGeub And if you're interested in exposure blending Greg Benz's comprehensive course (also found in the link) is second to none!
Amazing video!
Naw, thanks Justine 😊
hi Anthony! very fine result! I only think that the work on the window is a little difficult or slow when I think at the window pull with the flash...when you think that could be irregular and difficult table, wall or something from the window to you, it couuld be difficult to do it!
Hi Anthony. Why lightroom HDR merge give same result 3 -5 - 7 or 9 bracket. I tried with 3 exposure +2 / -2 stop and also 9 exposure wit +/- 1 stop and boom exactly same result. Have ever tried it?
Sir i have one request been following your videos since 3 days , Many of us have just started photoshop , it would very kind of you to explain in details all the layers u make , and how they function its very confusing as whats going on with layers
I'll try. It's a tough audience on youtube because some folks are pros and get bored by the details (and therefore leave an otherwise informative video) and some folks are new and need everything covered in detail. It's a hard line to walk to keep everyone happy.
Great tutorial Anthony! I would be very much interested to see your Luminar AI preset in detail. Also, do you have any info on when we can expect the same preset functionality in Neo?
How would you compare Aurora's HDR vs Luminar HDR now? which one is better? (I am interested to see your Luminar Ai Preset as well)
Hi. They're kinda different beasts really. Lightroom will smoosh the bracketed exposures into one big 32bit dng file, but it's up to you to get the best out of that file and bring back the exposure in certain parts appropriately. Aurora can spit out a lovely 16bit tiff file, perfect for working on, but the benefit is it's already done the hard work of bringing back the over/under exposed areas where needed.
Thanks man!! Lots of great info here. So do you pretty much avoid using flash if you can?
The proof you sent to the client, which is the one you use to copy the settings to the merged HDR files, was a single exposure with basic settings, meaning "base" exposure (ambient) with the exposure indicator on "zero" ...? thanks! ;)
Correct.
love the tutorial if i was on one to 2 images but usually hand over 30 images min for each property shoot 3 to 4 properties per day and hand over within 24 hours but shoot everyday 15 properties per week on a good week. Wish there was a quicker way . Problem i get is tonal problems around window seals. When just editing and merging in light room. Get the shadow black cast on white window frames.
i can do the edits for you if you need
Would like to see the Luminar preset please.
Hi Anthony, ove your work & videos. Would love to see how you created the preset. thanks con
I'm confused by your technique of manually brushing over areas in a new mask. Surely the heavy lifting should have been done within Lumenzia by choosing a better exposure blending mask in the 2st place
Hi Johnny. The point of the Lumenzia mask (bit.ly/3dpGeub) is to give us that ability to bring back the exterior exposure with control. Regardless of the Lumenzia mask setting there will inadvertently be some effect over sections of the interior. This usually results in a flattening of contrast in the interior sections of the photo, which isn't what we want. No matter how minimal. So, by using a very quick mask over the top of the heavy lifting by Lumenzia we get the best of both worlds, excellent contrast maintained in the interior, plus the reintroduction of the exterior. My recommendation would be to try the technique a few times without any double masking and you'll see what I mean.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
First of all, thanks for the video and the amazing content in your channel. New subscriber here and also new in real estate photography. I'm a professional landscape photographer from Spain and really wanna get into this real estate photography too. Like it so much.
Question, you mention on the video about some presets and templates you have for lightroom and also for Luminar. Do you have for sale? I can't find it on your website.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Thanks a lot
Jabi Sanz
Hi Jabi! Thanks for reaching out. The templates are kickstarters for lightroom and image finishers for Luminar. I've shown how to create a couple of them in other videos but currently don't have them for sale. I am considering putting some packs together though....
@@AnthonyTurnham what are that others videos. I will have a look. Found very interesting your channel and work
Off the top of my head I can't recall which videos I demonstrate those steps in, sorry.
How do you get them to proof and choose their photos?
thank you
You're welcome 😊
thanks man, how did you learn all this?
No worries dude. 👍 I learnt through years of trial and error and initially getting some very old books out of the library. After that I spent a lot of $$$ on online education and then got frustrated that I could teach the instructors a thing or two...
Anyway, now I just want to help others and share what I know. 😀
Great video, new subscriber! I just purchased Lumenzia, but my panel doesn't have the "L2, L3, etc" options underneath the D, M, L ranges. Did you do something to make those visible? Thanks Anthony!
Hi mate, there are a couple of versions of view mode that you can change for the panel. Perhaps you have the "lite" view active? The help files are pretty extensive and should hold the key.
This may be a stupid question, but what do you do with all the layers when you are done? Do you flatten and save as?
TBH with storage so cheap these days I'll usually save as a .psd (or .psb if it's over 2gb) and not flatten. It rarely (perhaps never) happens but if a client isn't happy with a shot I can go back in and have access to all of the data. Once everything is delivered I might still keep those layers and the file just incase!
creating a stamp visible copy on Mac: Command + Shift + Option + E
Yeah, gotta love that shortcut eh. It's always seemed odd to me that such a useful feature of merging layers into one has such a convoluted hotkey combo!
@0:03 Can I click my shuttle once to capture that picture?
Hello sir, thank you so much for this. I shoot RE and Architecture in LA and OC in California, I've shot everything from Celebrity homes to Mobile homes. I am busy, edit all of my own photos and completely independent. That being said I am always looking for time saving tips or ways to do my edits better in about the same amount of time as I am now. I have always wondered how people are able to grab certain frequencies of luminance without effecting unintended areas. I have almost completely given up on isolating luminance in LR. I have not tried the plugin yet but seeing how well that plugin grabbed the outdoor frequencies of luminance is really impressive. I clicked the link and plan on purchasing it, hopefully supporting you and your channel.
I do have one question. Do all of those links support your channel? And if so would you mind sharing how you worked out all of those referrals links with a channel of your size? I say this as a smaller, but similarly sized channel. And as such, if there is an opportunity to collaborate for anything in field or even a remote editing session. If I can ever provide any value to you, I am certainly open to it. Thanks again for this great info.
Thanks Justin. yes I use affiliate links to help support the channel and time I spend on it. Mostly companies have reached out others I've researched if it's a product I love to use (like the luminosity panel). Thanks for the collab offer. Refreshing to have someone offering to add value rather than just asking for help which is the norm. Kudos man.
When I apply the luminosity mask as you do around 9:23, It adds it to the base layer and not the copy layer like yours? I this due to the newer version of Lumenzia. Can any one help?
It'll add the mask to the layer that you have selected. I may have had to cut the video so it may have missed that bit. But basically if you want to apply the mask to the highlights layer but use the base to create the mask, then select the highlight layer and set the opacity (temporarily) to zero. Then once the mask is generated and applied to that layer, then put the opacity back to 100. Hope that helps :)
Experimenting with Luminar HDR VS Lightroom. Still on the Fence. Which is your fav? or maybe it's determined by the photo ( scene ) which to use?
Thanks for this, I was looking forward to it and it certainly doesn't disappoint. It's pixel peeping so not sure how important it is, but i found it interesting anyway. A 2018 TH-cam video by Scott Kelby finds you get better results by using Photoshop HDR merge as opposed to Lightroom (sharper). Tested again and it's still true.
Hi Alan. Thank you! I might do a comparison on that! Interesting.
Indeed, PS HDR PRO is definitely producing sharper results, however, I found some issues with colour rendering (dark orange/light brown window frame turned into ugly reddish colour) whilst LR merge was correct - at least on my test file. 5 bracketed shots with 1 stop difference.
How do you batch HDR in Lightroom or photoshop??? I have huge house 7 brackets and it's a pain just going 7 select at a time for each shot. Can I batch hdr
At 8:55 I don't quite understand how he selected the bottom layer used the plug in now his mask is on the top layer. Tried it a bunch of times.
Hi Jiffer. If you watch the latest video I go over it again. It may make more sense.
th-cam.com/video/_BrFUT9t7oA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Anthony, Is there any benefit of merging the bracketed shots into a HDR format in this way and making copies to edit for highlights and shadows vs just working on say 3 bracketed shots in PS and applying the masks to each shot? thanks
Hi. Not really. If you're going to work on the best exposures for each brightness (highlights, shadows, midtones etc.) you're better of using a different approach and just avoiding hdr. This video shows the approach I'd use for that: th-cam.com/video/RblEbqypl80/w-d-xo.html
great tutorial. however i think you took a wrong photo as a first example, because that exterior does not look too overbrighted and overall it is more natural rather than edited. i would apply this method to photos with smaller windows where the outside is blown too bright.
Yeah, fair point. It was more about just sharing the technique but a window shot may have been better. I've done other videos with other examples.
Imagine how much you would have to charge a client to do this when the vast majority of people can barely tell the difference between a photo taken on a phone camera with HDR and a professional camera with hours of editing. It requires amazing skills. But, nope, it's way too much work. Clients in my area would never pay me for this type of effort.
The one bit of advice I learnt after years of projecting my beliefs about what a client would or wouldn't spend was to not assume the budget of my client. This applied to weddings when initially I charged just under $1000 because I thought that was all I would pay so therefore it was all my clients would pay. I was so wrong. With every price jump I fearfully made, turned out I got better clients who were willing to pay that price. I finished in 2018 averaging $8k (nzd) per shoot. My first architecture shoot, $50 (yup, seriously). More recent ones 2-5k per job.
Perhaps some people can't tell the difference between an iPhone hdr and a high-end retouch. But perhaps, they shouldn't be your client. I found when I put the quality finish into my work it organically attracted better clients who were willing to pay for better work.
Have you ever tried a workflow involving saving your photos to an iPad and using Lightroom mobile or Aurora to blend photos on the go?
I think its funny how you start off great with the tutorial, but then you introduce a tool (that cost money btw) to adjust the layer and ignore the fact that most of us dont have that tool. So now how do I get that exact selection that the tool made and not you?
Respectfully, if you're doing architectural or even real estate photography professionally but you're not willing to drop $40 on a tool that will speed up your workflow, save you time and improve your final result you're doing something wrong. If you compare an investment in your professional hard gear such as cameras, lenses, lights etc. going into the thousands, relative to that, $40 on software for the backend isn't much at all.
But, you can always borrow and manipulate an alpha channel to work with luminosity that way, or use the apply image command outputting to a mask. More cumbersome , more time consuming and less control. That's why I shared the best method rather than the PS alone approach.
@@archiphotoI didnt say anything about not wanting to pay for a tool. I was a little disappointed that your title didnt mention anything about the tool you used. You could have said "How to edit your photos using this tool", but you didnt, and I watched your video up until that point and was just a little upset.
Im subscribed to you and will keep watching your videos, but I'm tired of people in comments boasting videos for things when the title is misleading. Was it a good and informational video? Of course. Was it misleading? Yeah it was.
aswell. anwNice tutorialle, here, you have to color kick in track, color the kick in setuper, and color the kick in soft. Thats so ti consuming.
Kick in track? What do you mean? Cheers.
Hmmm. Not sure what you mean here Noah.
the outside - through the window looks fake/AI/painted/oversaturated...
I appreciate your opinion, but I don't feel that it does.
@@AnthonyTurnham it seems more saturated than the inside... If you add a tungsten or ambient yellow filter to the outside, would there be less of a color change from inside to outside? Are the home's windows tinted with a UV filter?
The sliders to the outside are open, tbh there wasn't much colour on the inside of the house. A very neutral palette.
You should be upfront about hawking another product for your enrichment. I might have watched this anyway but now you get a thumbs down.
Thanks for your comment. Nothing to be upfront about as the panel I show isn't for my "enrichment". It's to help make your photos better. There's been no endorsement or payment to mention the Greg Benz luminosity panel. It's shown because it's what I use and thought this free video I put together might help people.
This is a really great tutorial!! 👍👍
Excellent job and thank you for showing us your methods 🙏
My pleasure! Thanks for leaving a comment!