ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2025
- Purchase your Super Splitter Here: amzn.to/2CNLCUL (This is a similar model to the one shown in the video. I couldn't find the model I bought)
My Landscaping Website: www.landdesigns...
My Chainsaw and Wood Splitting website: sawsandsplitter...
In this video I compare my trusty 12 pound splitting maul to a new 4 pound ames true temper super splitter maul to determine if weight makes a difference when splitting firewood.
Words that may help you find this video:
Ames Super Splitter
Splitting Maul
Splitting Axe
Fiskars Splitting Axe
How to Split wood
Firewood
This RazorBack s the closest I could come to the Super Splitter amzn.to/2P4WWnj though a lot of people say nice things about the Fiskars X27 Splitting Maul amzn.to/31v24np
Nice video. Decent swinging technique, much better than most. Good job keeping the tool in the plane of your body. You'll get tired with a heavier tool a lot less if you hold it with your dominant hand (you're left-handed I see?) as close to the head as possible (reduces torque) and do a little jump-squat with your legs to get the tool moving vertically. Also, never let the head of the tool go behind your head.
The mass of the tool should correspond roughly proportionally to the mass of the rounds you're splitting. On that note, the second round, the unseasoned one, wasn't a truly fair comparison, because you reduced the mass of the round considerably (and greatly reduced the cross sectional crack area required to split it) before switching to the lighter tool. That 12 pound Sotz clone is my favorite splitting tool. If I were splitting this, I'd halve those rounds with the Sotz clone and then do the rest with the Fiskars X27 (or in your case the Super Splitter). Oak actually really likes splitting radially-- it's ultimately a lot easier and faster to invest the up-front effort using a heavy maul to break oak rounds in half than it is to slab off the sides, especially if it's nice clear (no knots, straight grain) rounds like those.
The Sotz clone is great for forcing through knotty rounds or breaking apart large rounds. If the round is clear the Fiskars X27 is the best tool ever. It's virtually identical in splitting performance to the tool you're demonstrating (light weight with a concave wedge cross-section) but it has an indestructible handle with a lifetime guarantee. The molded plastic handle of the tool you're using is its weak point. It will eventually break. If it was the Fiskars, it wouldn't ever break, but if it did, they'd send you a new one for free.
Hey, I also have the 12 lb splitting maul like you do and while I don't have to split much wood, I would never even think of buying a 4lb splitter like that. But after watching your demonstration, I'm definitely going to have to get one. Thanks for the vid!
Great idea using the tire to hold the stack together. Wish I thought of that as a kid spending hours splitting and standing the pieces back up.
Tire idea is pure genus! that definitely cuts down on time!
I use the smaller maul. Bought it from lowes for like 40 bucks 3 years ago. It works great and makes this chore go much faster.
Thank you! Been swinging an 8lb maul for many years now. Just purchased this one - and the Fiskars Axe - winter is coming and a Pickeroon on the way too. Red Oak taken down last year and splitting season is here - and winter will be eventually be too here in the Northeast! Will report back after getting them.
I love my Fiskers X27 axe and my hookaroon.
Excellent - worth every cent. A back saver and safety too. Learn how to roll 18+ rounds and use the axe - or 26 ton YardMax!
Great to the point video. Before I bought the Ames TT I had mauls from 6 to 19 pounds. I've splitting my own firewood since 1976 and the Ames TT is the best maul I have. It won't split everything, but it won't wear you out like the heavier mauls do. It's well worth the money. I think I paid $33 at Lowe's.
I used a splitting axe like that when I went to the outer banks in October a couple years ago. I was splitting on sand (pretty much the only option besides concrete) and I really appreciated the precision of the lighter axe on such an unstable surface. I was pleasantly surprised by how well it did.
Been using the Fiskars X27 for the last three years now. Great maul. Light, fast yet incredibly tough.
I have this maul and like it lot. Powerful and a lighter so a some speed on the downward! The flange head is effective. Yet, keep the 8lb maul close too. Key is swinging a 8lb maul for a bit does tire you out - and the chance of tiring and a bad swing can be dangerous. Great vid!
I actually just bought one of those yesterday and split a little cart full of oak before the rain started. It was a fun axe to use. I'm looking forward to dry weather again so I can split some more.
I have the same splitter axe. Great value. Using it to break up my 22" rounds which I then put on my electric 6 ton electric splitter. I have a tendency to tilt it sideways when I strike. But that's me. Thanks for the review.
It's good that you found this. Overuse injuries are not fun
Let's come back and revisit this in another 15 years to see if the Ames held up. My $10 says perhaps the maul head will, but you will have undoubtedly gone through a few or several handles though. Anyhow, great video. Thanks for posting.
Thanks for the information. I've been using a wooden handled block splitter/maul since 1980 and while it does a good job at 63 years of age I'm "past it"; it's just too tiring. I like the idea of the much lighter true temper axe splitter.
I literally bought that bigger maul from tractor supply years ago and immediately took it back. The “sports car” is definitely the way to go!
Just picked up a Husky 8lb splitting maul at home depot for $30. I like that it has a rounded sledge on the back for driving wedges so I get 2 tools in one. Fiberglass handle, strike guard and lifetime replacement was good too. Looked into this one as well but reviews were mixed with new owner breakage.
I own the true temper maul and absolutely love it! I have split going on about 10 ricks with it and up to 36" diameter rounds of red oak. The bevel on it is perfect and it is light enough to be super accurate... That alone makes a huge difference. I'm going to buy another as a spare. Really can't say enough about the product especially at it's price. Buy one, you won't regret it!
Similar to the choice I had between the X27 and the Iso Core 8 pound maul. I will eventually have both because they are completely different tools with their own applications. I learned that the first time I used the Fiskars maul. I had some rounds that needed to be split but I didn't want to not have enough power so I opted for the beast that is the Iso Core. This was my first time splitting wood but the Iso Core didn't know that. It blew through the rounds and the maul just laughed and rolled its eyes as I put it away after what it thought was its warm-up drill.
I use the LUMP like your old one myself, as well as a standard splitting maul. I am interested in the design of the new one, and might try that as my alternate. I split a LOT of locust, which often has a complicated grain. Sometimes you need to use overwhelming force to get through where a standard maul sticks a lot. I wonder how cold it was that day in this video... even my oak rarely just pops apart like that. That would be heaven.
Glad to see another 'tire' guy out there.
While watching this video I noticed something that I had never seen used before. Stacking two old tires together and putting the wood inside to split. What a great idea! All these years of trying to hold up the wood and split before falling over. WOW
This is a greart idea Clyde. Call me, I want to catch up. On my cell! Important
There must be some kind of ratio between weight, and velocity while keeping shape constant ( angle to blade). For example what is the sweet ratio, for most woods?
12lbs X Velocity vs 4lbs X Velocity vs the maximum number of swings an operator can physically make in a minute. A measure of total work done🤔🤔🧐 I am beginning to believe that a few manufacturers have decided that a 4lb maul is optimal for 90+% of all types of wood to be split while considering all other variables.
Great video.
lizardfirefighter110 I bought one based on this video. The speed of the head and its design make it work so well. I used to use an 18 pound Monster Maul. This does anything it could do with a lot less effort. I’m 6’ and 300 lbs and began having trouble lifting 18 pounds after age 70. With this axe I can work a lot longer and get more done. I’ve burned wood for 30 years and use oak, hickory, pecan, and whatever someone says I can have. I don’t do sweet gum or soft woods as a rule.
I have hand split wood for twenty years and used all shapes and sizes of mauls and axes. The 3 1/2# axe is good for straight grain wood like ash and oak but does not have enough mass for twisted grain woods like beech or yellow birch. If you are splitting a load of mixed wood that has straight grained and twisted grain wood I go for a 6# maul. Twisted grain wood a 8# maul. I'm not saying that is what to use but that is what is I like to use, my personal favorite is the 8# maul not too heavy but heavy enough. Also a maul splits wood better a little dull this make it easier to retrieve on a failed split, where a razor sharp maul will stick.
I have one like your Ames, only mine is a husky I picked up at home depo. life time warranty. works great! I also got the axe and it needs re ground. the edge on it it way to blunt and bounces.. almost lost a finger on labor day.. peace!
Nice video. We seem to have reached the same conclusion at the same time: It makes sense to have two mauls, a light, easy-to-swing one and a heavy one to take over when the light one is having trouble. I gave a second try to Fiskars and am presently using it as my first line. The faces are very smooth and are initially covered with something like Teflon, both of which make it easy for the blade to slide in pretty well. One minor complaint with the weight-saving design is that the narrow "ears" act as a pivot point when they get below the top of the round. With the traditional width at full flare, moving the handle up and down can "walk" the blade out. With the pivot point, the head just rotates when the handle is moved up and down.
I agree with Terry. I have four mauls. Depending on what I am splitting I always take at least two. If I was splitting red oak. I would take my granfors bruks and my 5 lb maul. My 8 lb would be overkill. Each wood species seems to have a maul that works best with it. There isn't one magic bullet.
I had that same axe... the fiberglass handle broke off inside the head. I drilled out the apoxy and the remaining fiberglass and put a good wood handle on it. Id have it any day over a Fiskars or most any other axe I've tried. Good video except when you were using the Ames the wood was already started.. i mean it was split once. Its ussually easier to split after the first piece is off the wood. Would have been nice to see the Ames start the split, but I think the point was well made. You'll last a lot longer using that Ames than that maul even though they both split well. Good job!
I know it has been 6 years but if you have the time , could you share you views. Is fiberglass more prone to splitting than wood, are you happier with the wood handle? I am almost set on fiberglass mainly because I dont want moisture or the dry air to loosen the head , however, if I pick up a fiskars type replacing the handle is a no go.
@@mihailmihaylov4974 Hi. I prefer wood honestly but it has nothing to do with whether one breaks easier. I would think probably fiberglass would be better for not breaking, and as you mentioned it would not shrink from the head etc... Fiberglass weathers better but let me assure you if your fiberglass handle starts to fray you will hate the incredibly tiny, sharp splinters you get from that. I just prefer the feel of wood. I'm a wood worker so wood in my hands just feels better. The head on this axe is great though. Good luck, hopefully I answered your question.
@@natthebeeguy2501 Thank you so much for your input. I completely agree about the feel of wood. I am fed up with overwhelming amount of plastic in my life. I will think about. The good thing is I can replace the handle once it breaks, just boiling it in water , unlike Fiskars which will be an expensive wedge.
my dad has had the same heavy splitter for 30 years. i bought the true temper splitter last about 3. head come off. nice while it lasted.
Nice idea! Splitting inside of a tire to hold it mostly together and prevent fliers
what is the brand of the thick axe that appears from minute 0:06 and where can you buy it? thanks friend
Try a Fiskar's splitting axe and you'll be adding to this video for sure!
Nah....just paying for the name
@@gamerfan81 They are literally $25 at Walmart right now. I just got one the maul was I think $2 more. All that stuff is on clearance every fall. I buy spark plugs and chains for my saws too every year if they have any. I bought a couple cases of pre mixed gas there too for I think $3 a can. I mix my own gas but it was cheap enough at that to buy and it has stabilizer in it think its supposed to stay good for a couple years. I use a log splitter anyway have 2 of them but figured I would try the splitting axe for $25.
@@JesseLJohnson your point?
@@gamerfan81 You crying about PaYiNg FoR A nAmE is my point. Its cheaper then this splitting axe dude has in the video.
@@JesseLJohnson no im not...i have both the axe and maul
thanks for the response i can wait because that's a lot of money to shell out on a splitting maul. can't wait to see the video
my grandpa who is 78 has the same style axe as the fiskars and all the "revolutionary" axes of those styles and he got that axe when he got his first house works the same or better and it is made well and has held up just fine he still uses it
I didn't know about the smaller maul, but I knew that the heavier one does the job, but do work you to death. I would go for the smaller one as long as it works fine and you won't be as tired either. With both of them I would recommend that those who don't know much about them or an axe, don't use an electric grinder to sharpen the blades since the heat makes the metal brittle and cut down on the life of the unit. Use a heavy file to sharpen those tools as well as lawn mower blades. The tools will last longer that way.
Sidney Mathious you can use a grinder you just need to have someone with a spray bottle to keep the steel cool...i sharpen chisels razor sharp with out losing the temper by dripping water and quenching as soon as the dripped water starts to steam
That is correct.
If i may intercede just a little bit here. As a tool and diemaker for almost 40 years, i did quite a bit of "self heat treating" on my job. Whether it is a wedge OR a maul OR axe tip, the same applies to all. While the NON-working end of the tool is pretty darn soft ( annealed that way for a purpose ) so that if someone hits it back there etc with a hammer. it won't chip off. It's much different with the front ( working edge ) of these types of tools. The working edge is usually heat-treated to around 1600-1800 degrees, then quenched in oil. After it has cooled, it is cleaned off and once again heated, more slowly though, to a temp of around 800 degrees. This "tempers the steel" and although it is still pretty hard, the brittleness has been removed. Hint..........If you're using an electric grinder, it's ok, but try NOT the let the steel turn a "BLUE color" as that can possibly have some minor changes on the hardness. Using water as a coolant is ok sinc the temp. of the steel now is not in danger of cracking when quenched, due to the LOW temperature effect while grinding etc
Thanks for the review. I've used an 8lb maul, sometimes a 6 for many years. Time to give one of these designs a try
Interesting to see you use a car tyre around it, great idea never thought to do that. Great vid, cheers
Wow, cool! I am at Homedepot looking at one now lol Isn't life cool when new things are revealed. Makes me happy. Thanks for the share.
If you're new to splitting you're going to love it. Once you get more comfortable with a maul you're going to want to upgrade to a Wetterlings or Husqvarna hand forged maul. The handle is plastic and if you ding it it will come loose. With some patience you can replace it with a wooden one...as I have.
Crappie fishing Texas
Nicely made video. I like how both provide the same outcome but as you say the lighter axe is easier and less labour required. In New Zealand we burn a lot of Macrocarpa, it's a native and is a knotty beast so the lighter is going to provide more staying power. Cheers and all the best.
I have a Fiskars as well, best splitter I have ever owned. As far as knots in wood, cut through them with the chain saw. Will make splitting much easier, although you can't cut through all of them.
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC ... Sorry.... I need to explain in more detail. While you are cutting your logs into lengths. Cutting through the knots will make it easier to split the logs. Just make sure you split on the side of the log with out half the knot.
+garrimic3 ... I wouldn't split logs with a chainsaw. If it ever got that difficult I would borrow or rent a log splitter.
keep the wedge of the maul smooth clean and add squirt of WD40 it will amaze you how much of the energy is managed or wasted on a part of the tool no one gives a thought to! I will put a near polish on mine with a 400 paper. My brother and I were standing watching his son split some wood with a 8lb maul with a big maple round on gravel as a base, we were both amazed at how much of a mechanical wave rolled out and under our feet in the clay ground, It was a huge amount of energy! So I put a 6ft deep 18 inch sonotube 1500LB of concrete in the ground sitting 6 inches proud I then epoxy 1.5 inches of plywood on top. This was the single most impressive improvement to the effectiveness of maul splitting I have found.
Love the tire trick for keeping wood from flying and speeding work. Awesome.
Once I tried it I was hooked.
@@CTSCAPER Genius! It seems so much safer. I nearly cut my finger off as a kid trying to balance and cut at the same time. It might be worth noting to put some holes on the bottom of the tire, or cover it so it doesn't fill with water and spawn mosquitoes in warmer weather.
Isn't it a load of fun when, using a heavy maul, the round turns out knottier than you expected and the maul bounces back at you instead of making a split?! I suspect that the lighter one you demonstrated wouldn't do this. We split a lot of hard as hobs blue gum which can be rather gnarly. I sort of envy your nice straight grained oak, almost too good to burn!
The smaller one probably strikes the wood a faster velocity than the heavier one because you can lift it higher and accelerate it more readily than the heavier one. Looking at the physics of that: the Kinetic Energy is equal to 1/2 * mass * velocity squared. Ek = 1/2(m)(v^2). The kinetic energy increases exponentially with the velocity of the maul vrs only linearly with increasing mass. Very likely the shape of the head makes a difference as well.
I split a lot of wood almost on a daily basis and use a heavy maul but I do a round-house swing so it is moving quite quickly by the time it is over my head and meets the wood that much faster. Keeping a sharp edge on the maul helps to to keep that velocity up as it meets and sinks into the wood. The extra mass does help "grunt" thru the knots and screwy grain. Thanks for posting.
I love cutting wood, it's so much fun really.
Amen
Relieves a lot of stress!
Force equals mass times acceleration. The Fiskars X27 is an awesome beast. I have an older version of the 28" Fiskars splitting axe and I love it.
Great video but where do all you guys find these perfect straight grain logs for splitting:)
His axe literally falling through that wood 🤣
You literally have to live in the right place 🤣
I learned a long time ago that for the vast majority of splitting I strongly prefer a splitting axe to a splitting maul. You just don't need all that weight most of the time! (The Tru Temper in this video is technically a splitting axe, not a maul. There is a difference!)
The difference between an axe & a maul comes down to both the design and the weight. A splitting axe is an axe with a head that's been designed to more effectively split wood, much like the one in this video. A splitting maul, on the other hand, is typically much heavier, has a sharpened edge on one end and a sledge hammer on the other end. Unlike a splitting axe, the maul is designed to both split wood and pound on steel splitting wedges. You should NEVER use an axe of any kind to pound on metal, splitting wedges or otherwise. You can use your axe to pound on wooden & plastic felling wedges, tent stakes and similar non-metal items, but don't ever use an axe to pound on a steel splitting wedge!!
***** :-)
Same here. I used a heavy maul for years. My wife got me a fiskars splitting axe for Christmas........ and %90 of the time I use the fiskars.
That super splitter is very similar in size and design to the Cyclone splitter I have ( only difference being a hardwood handle and silver paint in the head.
Like you I find it much less tiring to use than my block splitter 8lb.
Great video. That is technically an axe with a wedge made into it. Prandi makes one and I would buy that one since it has a hickory handle. It's roughly 80 bucks so can't go wrong with Italian made.
Growing up cutting firewood, we never had a maul or wedge. My Dad had a double bit axe. One side was dull and one was sharp. The dull side he used to split with. If you used the sharp side it seized up and got caught. He weighed about 140 lbs. at 5ft 7in. When the axe would hit the piece of wood he was splitting he twisted his wrists sharply. Most of the time the wood exploded apart. I could never do it as he did. We never had a chain saw, only a crosscut, bow saw, and axe. We cut wood to heat with as well as cook with.
I ditched my maul when I found the fiskars splitting axe. I love it.
The wood that I split in Texas was as hard as iron. Only a heavy sledge and a metal wedge would work. I wish I had the luxury of using a wood maul on softer wood like all these youtube videos show.
+texasboy2005 yeah man, U can use anything on straight grain. Try twisted, stringy, knotty woods - wedge & sledge all the way.
+texasboy2005 Hi from Connecticut. Maybe you got your hands on some "ironwood" which isn't very common but is pretty tough to split by hand Elm is another tough one to split, because it usually has twisted grain from one end to the other. Years ago i got some free elm, about 14" diameter. It was green, about 18" long I had 3 splitting wedges buried in that thing. Finally finished but it was too much work. Another little hint. When splitting a piece, either by hand or by machine, always start the split from the "opposite end" if there's a knot. Works much better.
+PianoMan Smith Hi PianoMan! Thanks for the reply. I believe the wood I was trying to split was Bodark. It has a bright yellow color when freshly cut. You definitely sound like you've suffered like me on some of the tougher woods. One of my larger pieces also took three wedges to split.
+texasboy2005 Up here, I wait for the winter to freeze those nasty logs. When its near -40, its time to play outside with the maul.
+texasboy2005 Up here, I wait for the winter to freeze those nasty logs. When its near -40, its time to play outside with the maul.
I have one of these i purchased in Finland for 20 euros, its great, the edge needed a little profiling, but it works well
You are the a real Roger Federer of wood spitting! You have such a sublime swings..
Just enough to do the job.
I Still find myself using a power splitter...especially on low grade knotty pieces...straight grain logs should probably be sold to mill if off of private land or commercial permit. Some will not take dead standing though...hate to see quality logs used for firewood. I split with pulaski and double bit axe for years...first busting into halves with wedge and sledgehammer. osage orange is almost exclusively wedge and hammer...where I live now lodgepole and fir is like 3lb single bit felling axe would be plenty of oomff in this easy easy hero wood
I seen that at Lowe's but didn't pick it up. But after your review i think it will. Thank you for the review.
I'd like to see that on some knotty red or black spruce before sealing the deal.
JB, I save the knotty ones for the splitter or noodling with the chainsaw.
@@CTSCAPER Ok thanks for replying!
Esse machado não se encontra no BRASIL ...PRA COMPRAR ....onde comprar
it' s all about energy. and how this energy is put down to the wood kinetic energy beeing mv²/2 so the bigger mass the more energy, the faster you swing, the more energy squarred. so speed has a bigger impact than mass. and you notice that with a lighter splitter you swing a bit faster so it kinda compensates for the lighter mass. the benefit i find with a lighter splitter like the fiskars is that lifting it up (storing potential energy in it) it takes less effort to keep lifting it up during longer periods of time
that is with two splitter with the same angle at their tip. i think the most important is that you choose a splitter the fits your build. if you easily can swing a 12 pound maul all day long, than go ahead!!! if you are build a bit smaller, than choose your splitter a bit smaller and only use a heavy maul for the few really needed times or use a splitting wedge
That first giant thing you shown, with welded handle... yeah... keep it... I used regular axe with welded handle once, ONCE!
Any thoughts on which is better for big split resistant rounds? I’m thinking like knotty spruce or fir.
can u hit the light one with a sledge if it doesnt go through knotted wood in one swing?
How come your wood splits so easy and mine takes a million swings to get it to split?
I think just like any tool the big maul has its place. I have one but prefer my 8 lb old school maul. Been looking at the Fiskars but dont like the feel of the handles.
how does these fiber handles keep up in time? do they break when you hit the handle now and then?
I have one of those triangle jobs like you have and it sucks. It twists too easily and the handle is too short which I think is shorter than yours. If the handle were longer it would be a decent maul.
I've used several other wood splitting methods, mauls, wedges, cone shaped splitting wedges and the like. I got one of those True Temper ones last year and that thing is the best wood busting tool I've ever used by far! I'm busting white and red oak and shagbark hickory and it's actually fun, this maul makes it so much easier.
If you have a lot of wood to split (I only burn hard wood like white/red oak and hickory) that big ol' wedge on a stick will wear you out quick because of its weight.
So is it a hybrid axe for chopping and splitting
I know splitting the big ones right down the middle isn't the way to do it , but its so satisfying when you wail on a big 3 ft wide piece of oak and pop It open. In California we got madrone. Not too crazy but it's got that shitty twisted grain from top to bottom.
I saw this axe at the store yesterday and it looks good but the only thing that concerned me is that the head is held to the handle with epoxy. I have a hard time trusting that if I'm swinging it into wood all day. I decided to get an 8 lb maul instead that has a wedge style handle.
Does the lighter maul work as good on a knotty price of wood
I split a lot of firewood with an old no name 8 pound maul and it can get tiring
idk why i like your channel sm
I wonder. How do you charp them?
have you tried a chopper one axe. Just found out about them and they look cool.
The first maul I got was the ames true temper, and when I got the mean looking heavy maul later, I got back to the ames true temper as fast as I could.
Question? are you using a tire to put the chunks of wood in to keep it in place. If so what is underneath it so it doesnt fall through?
I can answer for him, as I have done it. It is a tire, yes, and more than likely he just has it on a larger round of wood. My pet peeve is that if you are splitting smaller rounds the wood still falls over. I have also heard that there is a metal ring inside the tire that you want to cut out so you don't damage your blade if you hit it. I have personally abandoned the tire trick and just reset my pieces of wood. Others quite enjoy the tires, some use a bungie cord. I snapped mine in 5 minutes. Hopefully that was helpful.
Tks for demo with the maul great tips staysafe ok from Toronto 🍁🇨🇦
That Ames is really nice. there is a very old tool called a powder wedge, lots of videos on youtube., see powder wedge. I can split a 2 foot diameter log 15 foot long lengthwise with 1 match. It is a wedge,with a black powder muzzleloader built in it,no projectile at all.Noisy, but works good.They used them before hydraulics, wood splitters and chainsaws.
Yep. I am in the process of dealing with a huge sycamore and I need easy. Fun is good too.And noise is fine. So I couldnt find 1 of these anywhere to buy but I
found a detailed drawing . I am having a few made up. These are very simple and basic ..............
sorry my friend i am froom greece what type woods are they?
I love my fiskars,but yours looks like it works really well.
I think the lighter but faster maul has similar kinetic energy as the velocity component is squared ie double the speed = 4 x the energy, everything else being equal ie KE = mass x Velocity^2
Have the Fiskers 8 pound maul. I don’t even need to swing it . Just lift and let it drop. It’s amazing . Wouldn’t go lighter honestly .
Hey how do you sharpen your smaller maul
I only weigh 145 lbs but can split most woods with the true temper maul including black locust.
Which brand is the 4.5lbs maul and where can I buy?
what are the wings on the side for?
Neat trick with the tyre!
You'll never go back once you try it.
I bought the same maul at Lowes and while splitting in cold weather the head cracked & busted. it was cast iron or cast steel not forged steel. the lifetime warranty on that maul is only good as long as that paper lable on the handle is there once your hands wear that lable off you are on your own.
Great tip! I have the exact 12 pound maul for 25 year,too damned heavy now!
I welded a longer handle and plate on the back to make it 17 lbs call it thor's hammer it's a beast
Muito boa essas ferramentas mas onde moro no Brasil nunca vai chegar
The real question is which one handles knotty wood the best?
I envy you North Americans and Europeans your "soft" woods. Most of my stuff, I have a 10lb maul (splitter) and it bounces off. I am a big guy and can swing it hard or soft, no matter what technique it just bounces right off. It takes about 10 big heavy swings to just start to split, then another 6 or so for the first split , that's a 12" diameter piece of wood. Split once.. by the time I have done a few barrows of wood I am exhausted. Good exercise though :)
I watch vids like these and... sigh out loud and wish :)
Trevor, I also envy the eastern part and mid west of North America for there videos.
If you come to California, ... bring that 10# maul.. and a couple of wedges and a sledge hammer..
I am very luck to have a true 10# maul, the only markings on it is.. Japan .. 10.
And to answer Land Designs, my tree have limbs, which equals knots.
Live oak, Black oak, White oak and the worst .. Almond, which is the toughest , but the best burning wood that I can get.
Trevor,
I just brought home a pecan that's about 18" of trunk and the base about 24" I have a monster maul (16#) and it bounces. I have a True Temper like the one shown and it sticks in the wood. So far, wedges are the only thing that do it and on some pieces (this is all green) even they won't do and that includes an Estwing E5, which works better than the standard wedge. Similarly, I have a green maple tree that just came home and wedges work but the maul and splitting axe don't.
Just use tnt
I saw this guide and if u tilt it at the least minute whilst swinging down not at an angle it splits anything
How about the Gransford or the German made Ilsis Oxhead both about $150.00 - I have the Fiskars X27 it is awesome but I'm looking for an 8lb maul - so far for the price I may try the Council -
Get this. I bought the Council 8lb splitting maul from Bailey's online. I kid you not 4 swings at a nice piece of red oak and my handle split in 2 right where it meets the maul head. Got a full refund from Bailey's Online - got to keep the "maul head" that is now my new Monster Wedge. I'm done with Wood handles for Axes - Waiting on that Fiskars X57 6lbs Axehead - if they ever come out with it
I'm using the Council 8lbs maul head as a wedge now - don't want anything to do with wood handles after using the Fiskars x27 it is 100 years ahead of it's time. Not sure if they are coming out with an X57 I did contact fiskars but have not heard anything back. I wish they would come out with a 6lbs axe with the exact same design.
My old man had one of those heavy duty mauls.
We called it the go-devil, you swing it and it goes like the devil.
Gransfors Bruks makes the best splitting mall I've ever used.
Have you considered grinding material off the bigger maul to get it down to 7 pounds?
Seems reasonable.
when are you going to post a video of the wetterlings i would really like to see a video of it because i would like to buy one
In danish the "Maul" is known in forestry as a "Forest-Hammer" if you translate it as it used more as a hammer than an axe example for using wedges on tree felling. :) personally I use a finish style cleaver for cleaving my firewood :) its alot like the one you have, but you should definitely check up the design :)
Hultafors makes realy good axes aswell.
Hmm maybe because i am Finn, but never seen anything similar to that heavier one, but Fiskars etc. are quite common.
Thank you for the video. I split a lot of wood and i have the big maul my self yet I keep breaking the smaller ones. I may have to give Fiskar a chance.
***** I have that red splitting maul just like yours. I missed chunk once and it bent pretty bad! I am not sure what will happen when I miss 10 times. Yours appears to be straight
use that new chain method to. with the chain links and bungee cord.
+ron bergeron Oh snap I just saw the tire, NOOICE!
using a maul of that size for 15 years then suddenly switching to something lighter would probably make the smaller one feel like a sports car. Its like taking the city bus everywhere as a kid then suddenly becoming an adult and getting a car. I would also like to add that if wood has a finite threshold then it would make sense that many tools with different properties could do the same job. Some could do it easier, others faster.