Shared in the community! Thanks for sharing your expertise in fixing cars. This is very useful to all who wants to learn practical applications about fixing cars.
@VicMprado all related parts have their dedicated symptoms to justify replacement. Provide as much info as you can to help me deduce what you could be having
@@partsshooter I ended up changing temperature sensor and flush coolant from the radiator “engine” and that was the end of the problem Steel working great
Testing is relatively the same for any system. Powers.... grounds.... signal... Thing is how signal operate is the funky part. Because things maybe ground side or high side switched on /off. Or maybe even a PWM pulse width modulated or CAN control area network. That's why obtaining theory in operation is imperative vehicle to vehicle
@@partsshooter awesome thank you, ill try the cheapest route. I'm going to try replacing that whole module that's only $46 at O'Reilly's and also the relay and see if that fixes it. this is been going on for a while. The fans never kick on with high speeds in 2010 sienna, AC only gets cold when we start driving down the highway. at idle, it warms up. only stays minimally cool. figured it's a fan issue. i seem to remember that sometimes the fan motors have to kick on really fast and sound loud when in park, and they don't anymore.
@danhouston2715 The relay isn't bad if the fans operate. The relay only supplies 12v to the fans. There is no need to replace that. Try this... disconnect the "coolant temperature sensor" for the engine, and the fans should operate max speed. If they are the speed of what you normally see, then check for obstruction in the front of the condenser. Make sure you have good air flow. Make sure the fins aren't closed off. Check your freon level. the low side should be around 40-45 psi activated. If too low, add a couple of Oz of freon. What can happen if the pressure becomes low then the high side maybe low and fan speed may not call for high speed
can't believe I just saw this. I really appreciate this. i still haven't gotten around to it but going to do everything you just recommended first before buying the control module computer.
@@partsshooter in your recommendations you talked about adding a little bit of coolant if shows that it's low because that could be causing the fans not to kick on at higher speeds. what's your opinion w just getting the little diy recharge kits and adding some? only because on certain channels they say that's not a good idea and that will cause more problems down the road. but that the only correct way to do it is to completely empty the whole system with a vacuum then add some fresh freon in to avoid causing more damage. what's your opinion about that?are diy kits just a temporary fix that can cause more damage? should I drain the whole system and vacuum it, then fill it up correctly where no moisture or anything gets in If it's low?
You don't know how much I appreciate your video! I can't thank you enough for putting this up.
Thanks!
@danhouston2715 no thank you! Hope the info help resolve your problem!
Shared in the community! Thanks for sharing your expertise in fixing cars. This is very useful to all who wants to learn practical applications about fixing cars.
Bro your so skilled. Keep it going.
I was told that one of the fans is supposed stayed running all the time??
Isbthatvttue
That's not correct. If they're stuck on, there's an issue
@@partsshooter thanks!!
My car keeps overheating I replaced thermostat and still the same
Water pump maybe?
@VicMprado all related parts have their dedicated symptoms to justify replacement.
Provide as much info as you can to help me deduce what you could be having
Could you share link for this fan control module or seller information?already got one from ebay ,problem still persists
@@partsshooter I ended up changing temperature sensor and flush coolant from the radiator “engine” and that was the end of the problem Steel working great
you a bad mother tutor brethren.. much appreciated. Will this work for a 2010?
Testing is relatively the same for any system. Powers.... grounds.... signal...
Thing is how signal operate is the funky part. Because things maybe ground side or high side switched on /off. Or maybe even a PWM pulse width modulated or CAN control area network.
That's why obtaining theory in operation is imperative vehicle to vehicle
@@partsshooter awesome thank you, ill try the cheapest route. I'm going to try replacing that whole module that's only $46 at O'Reilly's and also the relay and see if that fixes it. this is been going on for a while. The fans never kick on with high speeds in 2010 sienna, AC only gets cold when we start driving down the highway. at idle, it warms up. only stays minimally cool. figured it's a fan issue. i seem to remember that sometimes the fan motors have to kick on really fast and sound loud when in park, and they don't anymore.
@danhouston2715 The relay isn't bad if the fans operate. The relay only supplies 12v to the fans. There is no need to replace that.
Try this... disconnect the "coolant temperature sensor" for the engine, and the fans should operate max speed.
If they are the speed of what you normally see, then check for obstruction in the front of the condenser. Make sure you have good air flow. Make sure the fins aren't closed off.
Check your freon level. the low side should be around 40-45 psi activated. If too low, add a couple of Oz of freon. What can happen if the pressure becomes low then the high side maybe low and fan speed may not call for high speed
can't believe I just saw this. I really appreciate this. i still haven't gotten around to it but going to do everything you just recommended first before buying the control module computer.
@@partsshooter in your recommendations you talked about adding a little bit of coolant if shows that it's low because that could be causing the fans not to kick on at higher speeds. what's your opinion w just getting the little diy recharge kits and adding some? only because on certain channels they say that's not a good idea and that will cause more problems down the road. but that the only correct way to do it is to completely empty the whole system with a vacuum then add some fresh freon in to avoid causing more damage. what's your opinion about that?are diy kits just a temporary fix that can cause more damage? should I drain the whole system and vacuum it, then fill it up correctly where no moisture or anything gets in If it's low?