Seeing your longer TV videos on saturday keeps me going through the week! I work on medical equipment where I have to do more paperwork and documentation than actual repair. Today in the biomedical industry people seem to only replace boards which sickens me. I will continue to intercept their dead boards enroute to the trash and work on a component level. This has allowed me to save customers hundreds of thousands of dollars toward repair costs over the last decade. Thank you for this component level safe space.
I wish someone would start a cottage industry doing what you do, especially for biomedical equipment termed "obsolete." I think it's much more difficult to work on modern multi-layer circuit boards with tiny SMC and proliferation of ICs, with schematics being more or less proprietary in many cases.
@@pghcoyote This is exactly what I do for a living. In most cases instead of repairing the customers board we do an exchange, this saves the customer more down time than what's absolutely necessary. Defective boards get fixed and go back into inventory. We keep 30+ year old equipment running for places that can't afford to replace it simply because the manufacturer says its obsolete.
i have to say, your videos have done so much for me by giving me tips on how to diagnose, how to solder properly, and making me get back into repairing electronics just a few days ago my av receiver decided to turn off and not start up again, and i wanted to try and diagnose it myself, and because of your help, i was able to diagnose a cold solder point on a transistor and get it back to perfectly working order! thank you!
Back in 1974, I was working in a TV shop repairing color sets. There was one set that I could not get working no matter how long I worked on it. It still bothers me to this day. It had a dead horizontal oscillator.
I've had a few over 40 yrs that drove me nuts, it came down to economics, and the dollar won ....the TV lost....that's how the repair business became defunct unfortunately. 70 inch TV is now 300 dollars...!!
Hugely entertaining as always, and two repairs for the prices of one! Watching this epic was the perfect way to start the weekend. If I was stranded alone on an uninhabited island and could only watch one TH-cam channel, this would be it. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to making this such a compelling channel.
What can I say...excellent, as always...Thank you for dedicating so much time to the videos and giving us a free class every week. One, if not the only one, of the most entertaining channels on TH-cam. Greetings from Argentina
Another hugely enjoyable video, where not only are you learning, you take us on that journey and we learn with you. Please continue with these. And above all, thank you. I look forward to your next one.
Only watched 18 minutes so far. But I wonder if it could be a misbehaving tube? I forgot if you checked and swapped them all in part 1. I will continue to watch. Very intriguing. Edit: I was wrong again. I admire your tenacity to solve a riddle! Two thumbs up!
Nice job, every time there is something to learn. Perhabs when these resistors degrade, they also change their non-linear properties and kick down the oscillator.
(@1:32:32) Just to the right of the capacitor that was getting shorted, there’s a smaller capacitor that looks like the lead broke off right at the body of the capacitor; you can even see the little hole in the end where the lead went, but the lead looks like it bent away at about a 30 degree angle and is covered with fuzz-crust.
This brings back my electrical engineering class on lc oscillators. Mathematically you need an instability, usually caused by the on switch, to trigger the oscillating state. Without this the thing will just be stable and do nothing. I had this class 39 years ago. Also an rlc circuit will be damped and not oscillate if C=4L/R^2.
What about the oscillator screen grid decoupling? Those pentode Colpitts oscillators need the screen grid to be at a ground AC potential for the oscillator to work (is part of the AC feedback path). I don't have the whole schematic here, but it looks like the AC decoupling is done solely by the 135V B+ electrolytic. If the ESR of the electrolytic increases (e.g. because of aging) then the oscillator will not start reliably anymore. That also explains why when the set is used for a while the oscillator has no problem starting (the capacitor is reformed), but after 2..3 days the problem appears again (ESR increased again). I'd just add a .01 or .1 capacitor from screen to ground across the tube socket just to be sure.
@ Mr Shango: Your problem might return because the actual fault is pretty certainly to be the osc. tube 6LX8. The grid is on pin 2, and the screen grid with 130-plus volts is next to it on pin 3. Also the triode section anode with voltage on it is adjacent on pin 1. Tungsten boiloff from the filament onto the glass tube base will create a slightly conductive path of voltage bleedoff from those neighboring pins to the grid, biasing it too high positively and thus preventing oscillation kickoff. I have had a few similar cases over thr years. My 2 cents from Germany.. Excellent and methodical diagnosis, great to watch 👍
I agree with what you alluded to, these types of intermittant problems are the worst because you have to wait days to check to see if you fixed it or not! It could stretch out for months!
6:30 Eagles song: She married a well healed older man, but the love and passion just isn't there. He knows... She knows... As a kid I understood it. Every refuge has it's price.
Shango Nice great coffee morning enjoyment lots of great learning tips on OSC not starting and how to know what to look for not always easy to find and all the great effort to see you go thru it in such details. Sure made my day. Thanks a Billion.
I want to thank you for a video you did a long time ago on a Matsushita color set where you had to replace a phase diode or something like that. I have that same chassis but from a Penncrest TV and it will help me when I get around to restoring it.
Sometimes you approach it like Sherlock Holmes. Sometimes you approach it like Larry Holmes. Either way, you get the job done. Keep it up. I look forward to the next one. Thanks.
WATCH OUT !!!!!!!! Before you pull the tube socket, change R59 5.6 meg resistor. I have found in my passed 65 years in electronics is that when a resistor is going from 135 volts (high voltage) step down to a much lower voltage, beware !!!!!
Oh hello friend shango good night old war friend! oh shango today I saw you fixing the Packard Bell TV, I saw it was a lot of work, but you fixed it in the end, my friend shango, I love your videos
It looks to me like the feedback circuit to make it an oscillator is the cathode resistor R60 coupled though C66/67 to the grid. But in order for that to work, the tube has to be biased correctly somewhere into it's conductive region. We see that when the plate voltage drops and then it starts. The tube's normal noise gets the party started. But any impulse into the circuit (like turning the set off), will also start it. I'm surprised it turned out to be the 5% resistors on the left, but they didn't spec 5% because they liked the color bands. They had to pay extra for those.
18:00 in…if replacing the phase caps in that oscillator won’t get it going, I’m betting the board is conductive around that socket. Might have to start flying circuit off the board!
I'm pretty sure carbon composition resistors that are that old always have something to do with this intermittant problem. The spec on many here are 5% here. Otherwise they are 20%. The problem is it could have been anything else Dan tried to fix first. Love the process he demonstrated to get to that point. Too funny with A.I. "Molly". LOL Important find at the end with the other set. Great vid Shango!
I threw into garbage one Philips TV (with ICs) because it was behaving the same way after only 5 years. It finally refused to start even with "cranking" (turnin it on-off-on). Never got it right. Chinese Quadro worked for over 20 years when it started to display the same problem. It works fine over the summer, though. I still have that TV and it is interesting that the same symptom appeared on even older TV sets-and equally hard to catch and repair (I know that IC sets have the fail-safe to prevent "unstarts", but I dare to call it the same issue).
Good diagnose video. Loved the detective work insulating the problem area to get to the source of the problem. Logical thinking can sometimes achieve as much as measuring and testing. I love this kind of video, good job !
Something I have seen a few times is a peculiar fault with resistors is that they can measure fine but under load they lose internal connection aka go open. Horrible to diagnose unless you go measure voltage drop over the resistors. Took me some time to find that fault in a linear turntable that a professional repair guy at a shop couldn't fix so it went on the doesn't work for cheep pile.
I agree with you 100 percent about your comment on `climate` video timestamp 50:10 Low energy lighting etc It seems to me like it is all about getting you used to the idea of accepting less light in you home and making it very difficult for you to find affordable effective lighting. There are other issues being pushed as we all know, but the one thing they have in common is "Save the environment and let your quality of life take a dive!"
Low power lights still create the same lumens. There is no one stopping you from putting in 1000 lights. Just buy an electric heater if you need some nostalgia.
@@coryb333 A typical small workshop will need 10000 lumens or more. This is where the problem is, led lighting is fine for lower lumen outputs but does not scale well when you need high light outputs. Yes, you can get high output light units but they run the leds steaming hot and they just don`t last. I now light my workshop with metal halide lamps. They last 30 thousand hours and give 200 lumens per watt. Can led beat that?
Our square block shop is all led lights, way better than the old halide lights they replaced. A 12 pack of recessed led lights is $75. You can't tell me that all that waste heat is efficient. Again no one is stopping you from powering up 1000 halide lights. It just seems like a waste of energy.
@@coryb333 200 lumens per watt from halide lamps. Please compare that to the best lumens per watt led lighting. And,, please try not to be so condescending, this is a discussion, there is no need to display that attitude.
I got edumacated today. Here are some words I need to learn: Sivo-Brougham-Elixr (regular phone talk) Climate (In reverence to a job title. Climate diodes are catalytic converters) ESG (What climate diode are needed for) ERC (Employee Retention tax Credit) And we must stay home!!!!!!!
Hey Dan, I have a rough guess. What if the schematic is right. Maybe the change of the resistor from 330 to 220 was made in a later revision to get it out of the critical point, when the resistors value variation would keep the oscillator from kicking in. Cool case investigation! 👍
I don't understand how it is misdiagnosed. The oscillator wasn't running with old resistors even when the chassis was out and not having a short, right?
A lot of the pinball machines I work on use 6502 and 6800 CPU’s that need a reset line when they first boot. It’s held low for a split second and then goes high.
LoL watching this video was like watching a murder mystery, WHO done it? what part or parts are doing it?... I want to see the outtakes on this video and catch all of the real time swearing that must of gone on along the way to getting it sorted out. This is one of those jobs that only experience by coming across this problem and fixing it can lead to a next time on another unit, lead to a speedy repair..... ( it's not the destination it's the journey ) watched till the end.
Stayed up all night to find out,seemed to be like the idea behind drill battery chargers They will not output voltage to charge the battery if the battery is already too low in voltage to get the IC to turn on the power,but then flash the red indicator that it's shot
This Colpitts oscillator is the “Pits”. Try putting an inductor (filter) coil on the B+ ..looks like loading, or interference from elsewhere in the chassis …
That ground strap in the admiral was a factory flaw in the design of the set. I have seen that issue decades ago a few times in the repair shop. The 16 inch sets were more prone than the 19-in sets same chassis in both sets the 16-inch version and the 19 inch version
Before I go any further (8:46) for my own record. I have been generating very clean Sine Waves for audio work and have been using something called a ' Bulb Stabilized Wien Bridge Oscillator' although this uses an opamp all the magic happens if a 12v incandescent light bulb and its of course thermionics in control again (if you something done right) Dr Hewlett and Dr Packard (HP) made there first product with this tech and I noticed that to get these too oscillate every thing has to be just so and definitely fussy resistively, so I'm betting high resistance in some thing dumb like the socket or that coil is right out of whack. Any how now I'm gonna watch it and make an arse out of myself....cheers.
I saw 2 of those clear mica caps in the Admiral. Others I remember going were Sharp color hybrids, Panny tube color & B&W, Sylvania SS B&W. Admiral tube & SS B&W. Sets came in every apx 3 mo. with dead H Out tube. The big panny tubes would actually melt. & try a tube swap from the good set ! LFOD !
Hello shango, I was wondering if you would sell the giger-counter to me, I would fix it, and get many hours of use out of it. Reply if you read this, thank you.
These TVs need a little bit more cybobromulixyr. Nevertheless, the plastic chassis on that last one amused me. I didn't think that any manufacturer could get that cheap.
BEST DAMN MOVIE OF THE WEEK WAS YOUR REPAIR VIDEO OF TWO OLD TURD BEATER TV’S! THAT TV WITH THE CIGARETTE BURNS SHOULD HAVE GONE TO THERAPY AS BEING THE BURNT AND ABUSED CHILD. ONE SUGGESTION WOULD BE TO HAVE A POOL PARTY WHERE WHILE THE TV IS TURNED ON AND PLAYING, DROP IT INTO A KIDDY POOL (no kiddies of course) AND WATCH TO SPARKS FLY!
Try dragging an exact old knife blade down each one of the pins on the tube and lightly removed the crud. Put a little bit of oil on your fingers and Rubin on the tension. Then go from there
Seeing your longer TV videos on saturday keeps me going through the week! I work on medical equipment where I have to do more paperwork and documentation than actual repair. Today in the biomedical industry people seem to only replace boards which sickens me. I will continue to intercept their dead boards enroute to the trash and work on a component level. This has allowed me to save customers hundreds of thousands of dollars toward repair costs over the last decade. Thank you for this component level safe space.
I wish someone would start a cottage industry doing what you do, especially for biomedical equipment termed "obsolete." I think it's much more difficult to work on modern multi-layer circuit boards with tiny SMC and proliferation of ICs, with schematics being more or less proprietary in many cases.
How do you get the Boards, before they end in the Trash? :)
@@pghcoyote This is exactly what I do for a living. In most cases instead of repairing the customers board we do an exchange, this saves the customer more down time than what's absolutely necessary. Defective boards get fixed and go back into inventory. We keep 30+ year old equipment running for places that can't afford to replace it simply because the manufacturer says its obsolete.
@@rustygoldrepairs6555 that's one of the things we do as well.
That is what I do. I also make a hobby out of squeezing service manuals (they don't want to share) out of Fluke.@@pghcoyote
i have to say, your videos have done so much for me by giving me tips on how to diagnose, how to solder properly, and making me get back into repairing electronics
just a few days ago my av receiver decided to turn off and not start up again, and i wanted to try and diagnose it myself, and because of your help, i was able to diagnose a cold solder point on a transistor and get it back to perfectly working order! thank you!
Back in 1974, I was working in a TV shop repairing color sets. There was one set that I could not get working no matter how long I worked on it. It still bothers me to this day. It had a dead horizontal oscillator.
I've had a few over 40 yrs that drove me nuts, it came down to economics, and the dollar won ....the TV lost....that's how the repair business became defunct unfortunately.
70 inch TV is now 300 dollars...!!
@@frankpitochelli6786how about a Motorola color set that did that?
The perfect blend of 70's soft rock, cigarette burns, electronics repair, politics and telemarketer trolling. A.I. be damned!
Hugely entertaining as always, and two repairs for the prices of one! Watching this epic was the perfect way to start the weekend. If I was stranded alone on an uninhabited island and could only watch one TH-cam channel, this would be it. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to making this such a compelling channel.
What can I say...excellent, as always...Thank you for dedicating so much time to the videos and giving us a free class every week. One, if not the only one, of the most entertaining channels on TH-cam. Greetings from Argentina
Another hugely enjoyable video, where not only are you learning, you take us on that journey and we learn with you. Please continue with these. And above all, thank you. I look forward to your next one.
Only watched 18 minutes so far. But I wonder if it could be a misbehaving tube? I forgot if you checked and swapped them all in part 1. I will continue to watch. Very intriguing.
Edit: I was wrong again. I admire your tenacity to solve a riddle! Two thumbs up!
Nice job, every time there is something to learn. Perhabs when these resistors degrade, they also change their non-linear properties and kick down the oscillator.
(@1:32:32) Just to the right of the capacitor that was getting shorted, there’s a smaller capacitor that looks like the lead broke off right at the body of the capacitor; you can even see the little hole in the end where the lead went, but the lead looks like it bent away at about a 30 degree angle and is covered with fuzz-crust.
Yeah I see it too
This brings back my electrical engineering class on lc oscillators. Mathematically you need an instability, usually caused by the on switch, to trigger the oscillating state. Without this the thing will just be stable and do nothing. I had this class 39 years ago. Also an rlc circuit will be damped and not oscillate if C=4L/R^2.
What about the oscillator screen grid decoupling? Those pentode Colpitts oscillators need the screen grid to be at a ground AC potential for the oscillator to work (is part of the AC feedback path). I don't have the whole schematic here, but it looks like the AC decoupling is done solely by the 135V B+ electrolytic. If the ESR of the electrolytic increases (e.g. because of aging) then the oscillator will not start reliably anymore. That also explains why when the set is used for a while the oscillator has no problem starting (the capacitor is reformed), but after 2..3 days the problem appears again (ESR increased again). I'd just add a .01 or .1 capacitor from screen to ground across the tube socket just to be sure.
I do not know... But it sounds great! 10. Plus minutes in...
That makes sense.
I love the way that you diverge from the work at hand, into a totally different topic. My mind works the same way...Shango!
45:00 in…my theory of conductive board around that socket still not disproven.
@ Mr Shango: Your problem might return because the actual fault is pretty certainly to be the osc. tube 6LX8. The grid is on pin 2, and the screen grid with 130-plus volts is next to it on pin 3. Also the triode section anode with voltage on it is adjacent on pin 1. Tungsten boiloff from the filament onto the glass tube base will create a slightly conductive path of voltage bleedoff from those neighboring pins to the grid, biasing it too high positively and thus preventing oscillation kickoff. I have had a few similar cases over thr years. My 2 cents from Germany..
Excellent and methodical diagnosis, great to watch
👍
I agree with what you alluded to, these types of intermittant problems are the worst because you have to wait days to check to see if you fixed it or not! It could stretch out for months!
Hi Ronnie. It's broke! I agree that stuff like this intermittant behaviour can really drive you nuts.
6:30 Eagles song: She married a well healed older man, but the love and passion just isn't there. He knows... She knows... As a kid I understood it. Every refuge has it's price.
Never saw that second one coming, grounding out the cap lead when the chassis is pushed in causing the same symptom. Wild!
I really admire your perseverance! The longer the video the happier I get.
Morning coffee and a long detailed repair video is the perfect Saturday morning
Excellent thought process with troubleshooting. I used to repair those type of sets back in the 70s. Thank You
Way to keeping on plugging away. I would have given up long long ago. You inspire me.
Don’t play The Eagles dude! They’ll claim this video fast. You’ll end up having to dispute their claims.
Thought you were quoteing The Big Lebowski for a sec😁
Thank you again. I saw a GE All transistor radio today at Goodwill and I thought about you.
And you didn't have a massive compulsion to buy it and bring it home and open it up?.... Damn, I envy you!😂
Man is this is a thick watch .. thicc! I'm just over an hour in and the tinkering to diagnose is blowin my mind.
Shango Nice great coffee morning enjoyment lots of great learning tips on OSC not starting and how to know what to look for not always easy to find and all the great effort to see you go thru it in such details. Sure made my day. Thanks a Billion.
I watch…I learn. I may never run into this exact problem, but the steps of troubleshooting are what will make the difference. Thanks Shango!
How many times has a misdiagnosed issue happened on my bench? More times than I can count. Thanks for the persistence Shango.
"F' the WEF !"
I want to thank you for a video you did a long time ago on a Matsushita color set where you had to replace a phase diode or something like that. I have that same chassis but from a Penncrest TV and it will help me when I get around to restoring it.
Sometimes you approach it like Sherlock Holmes. Sometimes you approach it like Larry Holmes. Either way, you get the job done. Keep it up. I look forward to the next one. Thanks.
Sometimes he's Johnny Holmes.... 😂
Yeah, that’s what I would call a “tough dog” problem.
What I recall of my time in the Charles E Stone shop, the ZENITH televisions literally never had these nagging and persistent mystery issues.
On the other hand, RCA and GE helped many TV repairmen send their kids to the best colleges. Admirals were generally good sets until the went foreign.
WATCH OUT !!!!!!!! Before you pull the tube socket, change R59 5.6 meg resistor. I have found in my passed 65 years in electronics is that when a resistor is going from 135 volts (high voltage) step down to a much lower voltage, beware !!!!!
With that set up and running, I'll bet it would work quite nicely with a vintage Pong video game!
Pure beauty. Always look forward to your posts.
Oh hello friend shango good night old war friend! oh shango today I saw you fixing the Packard Bell TV, I saw it was a lot of work, but you fixed it in the end, my friend shango, I love your videos
"I'm going to get to the bottom of this" What I like about shango is he gets pissed when it aint easy.
It looks to me like the feedback circuit to make it an oscillator is the cathode resistor R60 coupled though C66/67 to the grid. But in order for that to work, the tube has to be biased correctly somewhere into it's conductive region. We see that when the plate voltage drops and then it starts. The tube's normal noise gets the party started. But any impulse into the circuit (like turning the set off), will also start it.
I'm surprised it turned out to be the 5% resistors on the left, but they didn't spec 5% because they liked the color bands. They had to pay extra for those.
Yeah, those five percenters were a clue.
I remember those tv u have to wait a hour for it to worm up and slap the side
18:00 in…if replacing the phase caps in that oscillator won’t get it going, I’m betting the board is conductive around that socket. Might have to start flying circuit off the board!
I'm pretty sure carbon composition resistors that are that old always have something to do with this intermittant problem.
The spec on many here are 5% here. Otherwise they are 20%. The problem is it could have been anything else Dan tried
to fix first. Love the process he demonstrated to get to that point. Too funny with A.I. "Molly". LOL Important find at the
end with the other set. Great vid Shango!
@7:46 - Ahhhh, Black Magic Woman. That is one of my all time favorite Fleetwood Mac tunes.
Troubleshooting is all a matter of trying one thing, and if you don't find it..
you go back, Jack, and Do It Again..
I threw into garbage one Philips TV (with ICs) because it was behaving the same way after only 5 years. It finally refused to start even with "cranking" (turnin it on-off-on). Never got it right. Chinese Quadro worked for over 20 years when it started to display the same problem. It works fine over the summer, though. I still have that TV and it is interesting that the same symptom appeared on even older TV sets-and equally hard to catch and repair (I know that IC sets have the fail-safe to prevent "unstarts", but I dare to call it the same issue).
Good diagnose video. Loved the detective work insulating the problem area to get to the source of the problem. Logical thinking can sometimes achieve as much as measuring and testing. I love this kind of video, good job !
Ok kids,todays secret word is "radioactive tickler"...say it in front of mommy and daddy when company is over and watch the neat reaction youll get!
A truly masterful troubleshooter!
Sometimes they can test your patience, but vintage electronics are still fun.
This video was so educational. Showing how to do an experiment.
ICE - Hey, a fentanyl zombie!!! Biden - Ah, let him cross the border.
Something I have seen a few times is a peculiar fault with resistors is that they can measure fine but under load they lose internal connection aka go open. Horrible to diagnose unless you go measure voltage drop over the resistors. Took me some time to find that fault in a linear turntable that a professional repair guy at a shop couldn't fix so it went on the doesn't work for cheep pile.
I agree with you 100 percent about your comment on `climate` video timestamp 50:10 Low energy lighting etc It seems to me like it is all about getting you used to the idea of accepting less light in you home and making it very difficult for you to find affordable effective lighting. There are other issues being pushed as we all know, but the one thing they have in common is "Save the environment and let your quality of life take a dive!"
Low power lights still create the same lumens. There is no one stopping you from putting in 1000 lights. Just buy an electric heater if you need some nostalgia.
@@coryb333 A typical small workshop will need 10000 lumens or more. This is where the problem is, led lighting is fine for lower lumen outputs but does not scale well when you need high light outputs. Yes, you can get high output light units but they run the leds steaming hot and they just don`t last. I now light my workshop with metal halide lamps. They last 30 thousand hours and give 200 lumens per watt. Can led beat that?
Our square block shop is all led lights, way better than the old halide lights they replaced. A 12 pack of recessed led lights is $75. You can't tell me that all that waste heat is efficient. Again no one is stopping you from powering up 1000 halide lights. It just seems like a waste of energy.
@@coryb333 200 lumens per watt from halide lamps. Please compare that to the best lumens per watt led lighting. And,, please try not to be so condescending, this is a discussion, there is no need to display that attitude.
I got edumacated today. Here are some words I need to learn:
Sivo-Brougham-Elixr (regular phone talk)
Climate (In reverence to a job title. Climate diodes are catalytic converters)
ESG (What climate diode are needed for)
ERC (Employee Retention tax Credit)
And we must stay home!!!!!!!
How can you get by with that music playing in the background without copyright problems?
This comment is engagement that is non-critical, carbon-neutral, and approved by the Chief Climate Officer.
Great Video ! I guess those old carbon resistors are getting old and useless. Maybe we can get them a job in government ?
It was fascinating to watch your thought process. Great video!
Cut everybody's consumption except their own. Welcome to serfdom.
@1:04:20 Noticed you keep calling R 56 330 k. It's 220k, right?
1:24:47 just as you look back up at the TV, is something arcing in the back-left corner of the cabinet?
Hey Dan, I have a rough guess. What if the schematic is right. Maybe the change of the resistor from 330 to 220 was made in a later revision to get it out of the critical point, when the resistors value variation would keep the oscillator from kicking in.
Cool case investigation! 👍
They should bring these back as smart tvs would love the retro tvs today
Shango time.... 😊 I wondered how long Shango would let this mystery go unsolved. Wow.... that circuit was designed close to the ragged edge.....
I don't understand how it is misdiagnosed. The oscillator wasn't running with old resistors even when the chassis was out and not having a short, right?
A lot of the pinball machines I work on use 6502 and 6800 CPU’s that need a reset line when they first boot. It’s held low for a split second and then goes high.
LoL watching this video was like watching a murder mystery, WHO done it? what part or parts are doing it?... I want to see the outtakes on this video and catch all of the real time swearing that must of gone on along the way to getting it sorted out. This is one of those jobs that only experience by coming across this problem and fixing it can lead to a next time on another unit, lead to a speedy repair..... ( it's not the destination it's the journey ) watched till the end.
Stayed up all night to find out,seemed to be like the idea behind drill battery chargers
They will not output voltage to charge the battery if the battery is already too low in voltage to get the IC to turn on the power,but then flash the red indicator that it's shot
indeed buddy indeed@@dddevildogg
This Colpitts oscillator is the “Pits”.
Try putting an inductor (filter) coil on the B+ ..looks like loading, or interference from elsewhere in the chassis …
Very interesting failure and diagnosis. Some types of oscillators can have trouble starting if everything is not perfect.
That ground strap in the admiral was a factory flaw in the design of the set. I have seen that issue decades ago a few times in the repair shop. The 16 inch sets were more prone than the 19-in sets same chassis in both sets the 16-inch version and the 19 inch version
Before I go any further (8:46) for my own record. I have been generating very clean Sine Waves for audio work and have been using something called a ' Bulb Stabilized Wien Bridge Oscillator' although this uses an opamp all the magic happens if a 12v incandescent light bulb and its of course thermionics in control again (if you something done right) Dr Hewlett and Dr Packard (HP) made there first product with this tech and I noticed that to get these too oscillate every thing has to be just so and definitely fussy resistively, so I'm betting high resistance in some thing dumb like the socket or that coil is right out of whack. Any how now I'm gonna watch it and make an arse out of myself....cheers.
The climate czar doesn't give up his Escalade, he makes YOU give up yours.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
Steely Dan - Do It Again. Great tune 😄 Gives me black magic woman, santana vibes
ok glued to this.........truck repair can wait lol.....
Until it can't and then we'll have to get back to the other things we like.
as i watch more of this IM like wow not simple by far
The ones that just hum along without listening vs the ones that know what the message really is........
Hmm, sounds familiar for some reason..........
Hums because it doesn't know the words. Or needs a new filter capacitor.
I appreciate the effort but what’s the point of repairing some of these old TVs?
Fun.
what an adventure this week
Steely Dan joke was very nice 😄
55:53 Yelling at the monitor because you have the meter on AC volts.... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH....
If you look at time stamp 1:15:24 there is a bad solder joint on the Admiral
Bottom center
@2:23 - I have built 3 of those kits. Not only are they fun to solder, but you can fight to upgrade the firmware for fun and they work fine.
That is a very difficult problem.
Dual climate diode minimizing it's footprint while the valves maximize there's. Lol now that's funny, love the video
I saw 2 of those clear mica caps in the Admiral. Others I remember going were Sharp color hybrids,
Panny tube color & B&W, Sylvania SS B&W. Admiral tube & SS B&W. Sets came in every apx 3 mo. with
dead H Out tube. The big panny tubes would actually melt. & try a tube swap from the good set !
LFOD !
Your right about the music in the stores
Shango Sherlock Holmes
Hello shango, I was wondering if you would sell the giger-counter to me, I would fix it, and get many hours of use out of it. Reply if you read this, thank you.
I just came here to watch tubes get hot. 🙂
Often the simplest of circuits throw up the most challenging faults. It's always the same... different.
It's not the TV it's the journey to fix it. I larn't a thing or two. Thanks.
These TVs need a little bit more cybobromulixyr. Nevertheless, the plastic chassis on that last one amused me. I didn't think that any manufacturer could get that cheap.
very interesting trip !! Thanx a lot !
What an interesting video. One of your best I think.
Hey good afternoon, Shango66 are you sure it's not the Tube itself? Crack in the board also? Best of luck. If I know you, you will find the problem.
Great video Shango, thanks!
BEST DAMN MOVIE OF THE WEEK WAS YOUR REPAIR VIDEO OF TWO OLD TURD BEATER TV’S! THAT TV WITH THE CIGARETTE BURNS SHOULD HAVE GONE TO THERAPY AS BEING THE BURNT AND ABUSED CHILD. ONE SUGGESTION WOULD BE TO HAVE A POOL PARTY WHERE WHILE THE TV IS TURNED ON AND PLAYING, DROP IT INTO A KIDDY POOL (no kiddies of course) AND WATCH TO SPARKS FLY!
No! They are beautiful and must be preserved! And they now work well!
Play food scrub relaxer, diver million years old purple pressure cooker
Great repair, all done for the love of the game. Imagine trying to charge for that repair. start with 40 man hours…..
Try dragging an exact old knife blade down each one of the pins on the tube and lightly removed the crud. Put a little bit of oil on your fingers and Rubin on the tension. Then go from there