I agree but I'll be using SIP's on the walls and roof over the top of the post frame structure. I'll also be using ICF for the foundation and my roof framing will look more like a timber frame with vaulted ceilings and large beam work. I should post a TH-cam video of it.
Very informative, nice job Paul et al as always...glad you all are feeling better. Been watching you since beginning, before you were famous. 😉 We are starting our post-frame build in the late spring on our 81 acre ranch in SW Colorado. I know you don't know us, but y'all have been a huge inspiration & motivating factor. BTW we just joined your "Master Builder" Patreon...looking forward to learning more. Thx
Ok I do have a question I've been wondering about in regards to sheathing & CC spray foam & roofs. Prefaced with I'm a novice at best...I have watched many Mike-Spray Jones & spoken to him on occasion. I was thinking, that he recommends absolutely only tinning the roof & applying 3-4" of CCSF directly to it with no sheathing, no? Thx in advance!
Does the foam board along exterior wall protect slab from heaving? Keeping the warmth from the building underneath the slab to keep from freezing below the slab? Would it be like a frost protected shallow foundation for the slab? I am thinking of building a single story structure like the Remington but using the pier footings. Thank you!
It's not required since the metal gives shear strength. However, if you don't add osb I recommend either closed cell spray foam or drip stop added to metal in then blown-in insulation.
I would upgrade roof usb to 5/8 for the 2' span just because I am a heavier guy and I like stability when on a roof. 1/2 inch is perfectly fine for most.
After you put the grade board around the base, how do you prevent water from seeping underneath and getting to the post bracket. It just looks like the board is sitting on the concrete pier and I would think that water would penetrate under the grade board and end up under the bracket potentially causing froze heave? Thanks
So is the foam board on the edge against the grade board and the foam sheeting for radiant heat flooring? Is this a step needed for non radiant flooring? I’m in NE ok. Thanks
Not necessarily just for radiant heat. You’re in the same climate building zone as us. I recommend vapor barrier and insulation below the slab, especially if it’s a residence.
No experience at all here but just a question about when you were roofing. Why not start flush with the bottom of the roof with that thinner wood (OSB?)
we don't use fall protection either when applying...sheeting, underlayment and our roof sheets. But I've always wondered how we'd deal with an OSHA inspector. I've seen youtube video's with workers wearing full harnesses with there lanyards that are so long that they'd hit the ground anyway!
All of those staples! In their install instructions they say "VB Synthetics Underlayment must be attached to the roof deck using plastic or steel cap fasteners having a Minimum 1" diameter cap(Plastic or Tin). Roofing nails and pneumatic nail guns may be used for same day installations for all slopes. We do not recommend using staples as a method for application of VB Synthetics materials. Fasteners should be properly driven into the surface of the roofing underlayment so that cap have a positive pressure against the underlayment material.
Some of the big companies set up full building planking at the eaves and guard rails along the gable fascia. A good safety program but adds a lot of labor erecting and dismantling. This isn't really Dann Morris commenting. it's somebody else who's stealing his access.
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Paul, this is a great series! You and Kyle (RR Buildings) are my two favorite channels. Keep up the great work!
Thank you! Appreciate it
I agree but I'll be using SIP's on the walls and roof over the top of the post frame structure. I'll also be using ICF for the foundation and my roof framing will look more like a timber frame with vaulted ceilings and large beam work. I should post a TH-cam video of it.
@@robertlaird6746 Yes, you should
Looking really nice guys! See you this spring!
Thank you!
Very informative, nice job Paul et al as always...glad you all are feeling better. Been watching you since beginning, before you were famous. 😉
We are starting our post-frame build in the late spring on our 81 acre ranch in SW Colorado. I know you don't know us, but y'all have been a huge inspiration & motivating factor.
BTW we just joined your "Master Builder" Patreon...looking forward to learning more. Thx
Wow thanks for sharing. Appreciate the support and look forward to helping you guys along the way
Good work as always
Thank you!
Ok I do have a question I've been wondering about in regards to sheathing & CC spray foam & roofs. Prefaced with I'm a novice at best...I have watched many Mike-Spray Jones & spoken to him on occasion. I was thinking, that he recommends absolutely only tinning the roof & applying 3-4" of CCSF directly to it with no sheathing, no? Thx in advance!
This particular build will be getting blown-in insulation in the attic. The walls will receive 3" of CCSF, but the ceiling / roof will not.
@@MrPostFrame gotcha... that makes more sense. Thx for the clarifications.
How does the pink foam below grade for draft prevention hold up against bugs, moisture, or deterioration?
Does the foam board along exterior wall protect slab from heaving? Keeping the warmth from the building underneath the slab to keep from freezing below the slab? Would it be like a frost protected shallow foundation for the slab? I am thinking of building a single story structure like the Remington but using the pier footings. Thank you!
Great video thank you
Question do you have to put osb sheathing down? Why would you vs. Why not?
It's not required since the metal gives shear strength. However, if you don't add osb I recommend either closed cell spray foam or drip stop added to metal in then blown-in insulation.
I would upgrade roof usb to 5/8 for the 2' span just because I am a heavier guy and I like stability when on a roof. 1/2 inch is perfectly fine for most.
Wondering what the total saving is from your total to having it built for you. Great videos. Thanks for sharing.
After you put the grade board around the base, how do you prevent water from seeping underneath and getting to the post bracket. It just looks like the board is sitting on the concrete pier and I would think that water would penetrate under the grade board and end up under the bracket potentially causing froze heave? Thanks
As long as you bring in your rock fill and properly grade there will not be any water near the brackets.
So is the foam board on the edge against the grade board and the foam sheeting for radiant heat flooring? Is this a step needed for non radiant flooring? I’m in NE ok. Thanks
Not necessarily just for radiant heat. You’re in the same climate building zone as us. I recommend vapor barrier and insulation below the slab, especially if it’s a residence.
@@MrPostFrame thank you for the information!
No experience at all here but just a question about when you were roofing. Why not start flush with the bottom of the roof with that thinner wood (OSB?)
For attachment of trims…the top edge of the OSB needs to be flush with the fascia board, not the bottom.
we don't use fall protection either when applying...sheeting, underlayment and our roof sheets. But I've always wondered how we'd deal with an OSHA inspector. I've seen youtube video's with workers wearing full harnesses with there lanyards that are so long that they'd hit the ground anyway!
If they are wearing the proper system, there is an automatic arrest built-in.
All of those staples! In their install instructions they say "VB Synthetics Underlayment must be attached to the roof deck using plastic or steel cap fasteners having a Minimum 1" diameter cap(Plastic or Tin). Roofing nails and pneumatic nail guns may be used for same day installations for all slopes. We do not recommend using staples as a method for application of VB Synthetics materials. Fasteners should
be properly driven into the surface of the roofing underlayment so that cap have a positive pressure against the underlayment material.
If you use cap fasteners you'll see everyone of them since it's going to be a metal roof
What state was this home built in
Iowa
Some of the big companies set up full building planking at the eaves and guard rails along the gable fascia. A good safety program but adds a lot of labor erecting and dismantling. This isn't really Dann Morris commenting. it's somebody else who's stealing his access.
:) definitely a lot of extra work and money
No concerns with termites tunneling through the foam board?
In Iowa???
💖💖💖👌💪💪💪
Thanks
1st
Thanks for watching!
Did you guys know only black fathers can do standing tucks and coed stunt with their daughters!? Who knew….
What good is that insulation if it doesn't go below the frost line
So you are doing a major problem that's not how anyone wants their home I have a better solution
Thanks
Yet you don't post your "solution" or even really define what the problem is. You're just a troll.