It is such a public service when climbers as good as you post videos of problems like this, which we're all able to try. Seeing you twist your way through these boulders, climbing very well and efficiently in a style that actually transfers off the board, is so much more valuable than seeing someone huck their way through. Thanks, Tom!
Haha I feel like such a weak kitten when I try and emulate the heave ho pulling I see some people do. Got to employ all the tricks I can. Appreciate the kind words 🙏
This is that good good moonboard content we've always been waiting for! Great video man and great to see someone as strong as you on the board we all know and love! (Fellow moonboard cultist here :p)
Can we take a second to appreciate how glued to the kickboard your feet are!? Not one slip off those start feet... you've definitely got something going on in your feet!
Love the organic-ness of your videos and this one doesn’t disappoint. Absolutely been loving your spray wall and moonboard sessions! Absolute treat!! Keep up the good work Tom!
Your on a roll with these video ideas. this video is super relatable i've always noticed how the easiest v8 benchmarks feel easier than the hardest 4's (at least on the 2016 a b and old school set)
Super late comment but I really appreciate this type of content as well! It is sometimes hard to find examples of this level of quality climbing on the lower benchmarks, I love comparing my own attempts to yours!
This video has really got me psyched for a board session! Something I figured out wayyy too late is that the lower grades e.g V4, V5 and V8 are composed of two whole Font grades. It explained why the jump from V8-V9 always felt so massive 🙈. The brits consider both 7B and 7B+ to fall under V8.
Moonboard and the Kilter board draw frequent comparisons - for obvious reasons - but for me it comes down to the moonboard always being a finger + power workout whereas the kilter holds seem to suit being able to isolate strength and power from being so finger intensive Love the video!
Great video! It's so hard to get across how difficult Moonboard can be. Glad you feel the same. I look at the problems and go: ok, straight forward enough, then pull on and get shut down.. Glad I finally did my first V6 on it now, need to get better at those high feet though, I'm 1.88m and sometimes there's a lot of me for those small boxes.....
Hell yea 2019 board is siiick. Its also wild seeing pros climb stuff that I've done or given attempts at and showing just how good it can look when climbed really well
FYI - KoalaClimbing is a dude from South Korea (if i am not mistaking a gym owner aswell) He sometimes climbs together with HoseokLee - a (famous) Korea boulderer who got to double digit V grade super fast and trained mostly on the moonboard
@@TomOHalloranAus any tips for elbow tendinitis recovery besides just resting? Also you’re going to blow up soon just keep up the consistency and top tier videos!! 😁
Arm aid!! It made a major difference to mine. However there’s a ton of reasons it can kick off, so this may only fix what I had. Find a good Physio, they will be your best bet for a proper diagnosis and rehab
Awesome session man! I have a moonboard in the backyard since all these lockdowns and I've never had a finger injury on it. Though I am projecting the V5 benchmarks so maybe that's why :) I also think that there is a bit of negative talk about the moonboard being super jumpy but you used so much tension and really only jumped once I think. Kris Hampton should have a watch of this video!
You may be one of the ones clever enough to listen to your body (fingers) and not mince down on a weird stacked 2.5 finger crimp. Keep up the good work haha
Damn the body tention you showed is inspiring! I feel like I have to cut feet all the time (which I'm terrible at) but it seems you can get super far with weighting your feet properly and using your core. I just need to it to be world class level XD
Enjoyed the format of the video! Swapping between talking after the climbing to a cut away of you talking seemed good; Watching someone talk seems to be better than a voice over, by a lot. The fact that this cut away was outside meant it was was pleasant to look at, which probably helped too. My take away is try to avoid voiceovers because they feel disconnected. Don't be afraid to film with other people in the video, having the comradery in videos has definitely helped other climbing channels. I liked the idea of the video a bunch, as you're strong enough and experienced enough to climb almost all of the grades quickly & give a decent opinion on the grades. Unsurprising results, but that doesn't dampen the video in anyway. Look forward to more content, perhaps some videos of you and friends demolishing climbs at the local gym or crag? idk. GL!
Since you are pretty strong and not having any problems with V3 problems on the Moonboard you might not know, but Maple is the least repeated simply because it is a new V3 benchmark! So not sure if you can compare this with the most repeated. And the benchmarks for me are super different in terms of difficulty. Actually the "Warm-Up Problem", the most repeated V3 is not doable for me (move to the right, black hold) while some of the least repeated routes were doable for me. Nice video!
@@TomOHalloranAus if you ever find yourself out in Vegas check out The Pad Henderson. So much great climbing outside but the gym is a lot of fun in betweens sessions or uf it gets too hot outside.
Great video. But it has to be said that the benchmark problems, as ranked by number of repeats, also reflect the time as a benchmark. The ones with the most repeats have been around since 2019, and the more recent ones only have a few repeats because they reached like 50-100 repeats and then were deemed benchmarks via algorithm or consensus. So it is some type criteria to say best/worst or hardest/softest as determined by repeat count, but more likely it’s just reflection of how long it’s been an established problem. Thank you for the hard work and commentary.
Yeah totally not a perfect system for the exact reason you mentioned. I wonder if there’s a better way to find out. Maybe we can get in contact with Mr Moon haha
Great video, thanks! Quick q; do you have any tips or thoughts on how to improve core tension? I thought that really stood out in how you moved on the board
Only at the first part of the video, so I don't know if pu're actually going to talk about it, but one thing I would like to mention is, how new the problems are. Maple got benchmarked not too long ago, which is why it doesn't have many repeats. It's not super easy, but I would argue that there are a couple ones which are a lot harder ;) (Ben Moon's custard Speedtalk for example). Same for the V4s (try t-rex which ist probably harder than some of the V6s depending on how glassy the black piches are). Oh, and Koala climbing is I think Korean and the name comes from his(?) climbing gym.
Yep the repeats is not the most scientific way of approaching it, but we had to start somewhere. It will always be hard to work out what is actually ‘the hardest’ one. I’ll for sure check out some of the ones you mentioned though!
It seems like finger strength training is done purely with static loading - often shock static loading - mimicking the use-case for fingers in climbing. And perhaps this is the best way to train the forearm muscles, but I'm not sure it's the best way to train the finger tendons and ligaments. I've often thought that dynamic loading through a range of movement would do a better - and safer - job of training the tendons and ligaments of the fingers: less static shock loading, and the movement would keep the structures involved better lubricated and oxygenated. What do you think?
To be honest, I have no idea. Getting into the weeds of the science is not my cup of tea. As much as I find it fascinating to read and disgust, it’s all a bit too theoretical. I like a dose of fingerboarding and board climbing to keep my fingers progressing and have never felt like I’m missing out
From my understanding heavy slow isometric (static) loads like hangboarding tend to promote a more compliant tendon/pulley system which could be considered healthier, but less effective at producing force rapidly or what some people know of as contact strength. Plyometric type workouts like campusing or moonboarding tend to create a stiffer tendon/pully that allows faster force production (contact strength) but also increases the likelihood of tears. Depending on your level of climbing and other factors like how injury prone are you, a mix of the two would generally be pretty good to balance out having decent contact strength vs not getting injured. That's my understanding anyway, feel free to correct me.
@@matthewking4883 Back when I was training, I used to try and figure out an effective way for me to do something like "finger tip curls" so that I was strength training across the full range of motion of the fingers. (something better than guitar grip trainers). I speculated that this range of motion exercise would reduce repetitive loads on just one part of the ligament/tendon system, and keep the system better lubricated/oxygenated. What do you think?
I'm sure it would have a bit of an effect but I wouldn't make it a large part of my training due to the lack of specificity to climbing. Seeing as slow isometric can already promote tendon health I think training a few different grip types would be a good way to not 'over' load one position.
Would love for you to compare moonboard climbing to outdoor in terms of the physical limits and not technical. I know v10 and 11 outdoor climbers who max out at v8 on the moon who send double digits outside. I find this really interesting. You also have pro climbers who probably go through the same thing. The board is thought to be this awesome power and strength training tool for outdoor climbing. But many argue, in my circle at least, it's just too jumpy (i.e. 2017 board for example), and the tension board is much better for outdoor endeavors.
I think the moonboard, in terms of style, is not super comparable to outdoors. The energy systems sure, but the climbing style is so different. I haven’t struck many boulders/routes which climb like a moonboard problem. It is very fun though and that’s worth something. There are certainly some hard ones for the grade too. I’d say in average it must be out by a grade? Though I heard Ben moon talk about the grading once and said it’s just moonboard grades. There’s no correlation to outdoor grades
You should do a flexibility video, your footwork looks so fluid and mobile. I’d be keen on hearing your thoughts on the subject. good stuff, I’m a big fan keep it up 🙃
Do you prefer the moon board over a spray wall? I heard Adam Ondra say he prefers a spray wall because it still allows you to use and learn how to use bigger footholds. I think he said he doesn’t hang board or moonboard often compared to just the spray wall.
I’m totally the same as Adam in that regard. Love the versatility of the spray wall. Also I haven’t fingerboarded in ages and my fingers are as strong as ever. Moonboard is fun though
@@TomOHalloranAus interesting you haven't fingerboarded in a long time. Do you feel there is a place for it in training. What portion of your training is on the spray wall? Do you have a video talking about what different training days are like for you?
@@Maniac45864 There is 100% a place for it in training. I've had a big stints of fingerboarding in the past. However board climbing with direction can do fairly good job of making your fingers strong too. It's defeinitly something I want to talk about in a video :)
i notice u full crimp alot, or just wrap your thumbs around the hold when climbing these problems. do you have particular weaknesses with open hand or is this just preference?
Since they release new problems over time, there's a chance that less climbed problems aren't necessarily harder, but just new. Still, even the "sort by easy" function is flawed since it relies on people changing the grade when they log it, and some may not. So, it's tricky. Nice content though 🙂
I personally find the 'cutlooseornot' to be hardest 6a+ benchmark, because of one far move losing my feet. I flashed almost all of the rest of 6a+ benchmarks. But I can't finish this one, and it's really annoying, since its only a matter of my height...
I find the holds on the moon board pretty aggressive much prefer the kilter board in that respect but the vicious crimpy style of the MB is certainly a lot more applicable to uk bouldering . how do you compare the two for climbing in AUS?
Kilterboard is probably closer to Aust bouldering I think. Though I haven’t got a ton of experience of bouldering in Aust. Moonboard is certainly a particular style
This Nick Wedge guy seems to be setting a lot of the lowest-repeat climbs haha. Also wonder if there's a recency element to it though - more recently set problems will naturally have fewer repeats
Some nice stout ones in there for sure. Yep, recency to being benchmarked will play a roll in repeats for sure. Not the most scientific approach, but a place to start. Suggestions welcome 😀
@@TomOHalloranAus a cool approach would be to mathematically model average number of repeats as a function of time since set, and then find the problems that deviate most drastically from the expected number of repeats based on their age. There are other factors too though, I think it's definitely fair to say that some problems are more "fun" than others, and so even with all other variables fixed, a more "fun" problem will have more repeats.
Hey Tom, how much did you end up putting into the 2016 set timewise? I saw you way back in a moonpig tournament with the gwood crew boys from Adelaide, but never saw your name on much else from the 2016 set!
Very very little. I’d guess less than 5 total. I’ve really not spent much time moonboarding at all! That moonpig session was awesome. Perhaps need to make it happen again!
Your approach to determining the easiest to hardest benchmark per grade is fairly close to being accurate. Benchmarks are added over time, so Maple for example is a new addition to the board and will naturally have less sends. You’re going to want to look at when the climb is set compared to sends. Past is the hardest 6A+ benchmark if you use this approach. Yes. I’m a Moonboard nerd. Sigh.
How do you feel about full crimping while training? It seems like you full crimp a lot more than other pros. I find that I can pull a lot harder while full crimping, but try to avoid because it is uncomfortable.
Crimping is definitely my strongest grip. Though I’ll actually try to avoid it as much as possible when ‘training’ to try and bring up my open/chisel grip. But when it comes to ‘performing,’ the shackles are off and anything goes.
Haha because if my feet come off, so do it. I do like keeping tension on moves. I'd be keen to make a video on how to keep tension at some point soon. New home woody should be built soon so I can make that happen :)
Haha isn't that most of the moonboard grading though? Yes that one seemed to have the biggest reputation for things not going well across several fronts.
Anyone else got a sniffly finger at the moment?
yes :(
More than a sniffly unfortunately :( but hopeful rehab will keep improving it~
Both ring fingers can be a bit sniffly if I drag too much. Luckily I like getting the pinky involved as much as possible so it’s not too often.
Yep... Both middle fingers. I'm not allowed on the Moonboard right now :(
both ring fingers :/
It is such a public service when climbers as good as you post videos of problems like this, which we're all able to try. Seeing you twist your way through these boulders, climbing very well and efficiently in a style that actually transfers off the board, is so much more valuable than seeing someone huck their way through. Thanks, Tom!
Haha I feel like such a weak kitten when I try and emulate the heave ho pulling I see some people do. Got to employ all the tricks I can. Appreciate the kind words 🙏
oooo please do this for the moonboard 2016 set. id be super interested : )
Sounds good to me!
That would be a rad video!
This is that good good moonboard content we've always been waiting for! Great video man and great to see someone as strong as you on the board we all know and love! (Fellow moonboard cultist here :p)
Haha thanks. Im keen for some more time in the moonboard. I may be the cults newest recruit 😛
Can we take a second to appreciate how glued to the kickboard your feet are!? Not one slip off those start feet... you've definitely got something going on in your feet!
It’s all in the shoes 😉…and extreme concentration
Up an coming mainstream climbing channel. Keep it up, its awesome!
Thank you. Keen to keep it going and having fun
Love the organic-ness of your videos and this one doesn’t disappoint. Absolutely been loving your spray wall and moonboard sessions! Absolute treat!! Keep up the good work Tom!
Thank you, I'm psyched you like them :)
Your on a roll with these video ideas. this video is super relatable i've always noticed how the easiest v8 benchmarks feel easier than the hardest 4's (at least on the 2016 a b and old school set)
Yeah I find there can be such a big difference across them. Kind of funny when they are called ‘benchmark’
This is such a great video idea! Great info here as someone getting more stuck into moon boarding
Glad you liked it. Enjoy the dive into the moonboard world. its a deep one haha
Super late comment but I really appreciate this type of content as well! It is sometimes hard to find examples of this level of quality climbing on the lower benchmarks, I love comparing my own attempts to yours!
Ahh awesome, glad you enjoyed it. Better late than never. I'm keen to make more when I can :)
This video has really got me psyched for a board session! Something I figured out wayyy too late is that the lower grades e.g V4, V5 and V8 are composed of two whole Font grades. It explained why the jump from V8-V9 always felt so massive 🙈. The brits consider both 7B and 7B+ to fall under V8.
I think there's a lovely sprinkling of sandbagging in there too, plus the system has just become it's own beast entirely.
Moonboard and the Kilter board draw frequent comparisons - for obvious reasons - but for me it comes down to the moonboard always being a finger + power workout whereas the kilter holds seem to suit being able to isolate strength and power from being so finger intensive
Love the video!
Yep I’d say moonboard is a most bigger tax on fingers and kilter is the whole body power/strength.
Great video! It's so hard to get across how difficult Moonboard can be. Glad you feel the same. I look at the problems and go: ok, straight forward enough, then pull on and get shut down.. Glad I finally did my first V6 on it now, need to get better at those high feet though, I'm 1.88m and sometimes there's a lot of me for those small boxes.....
Haha yeah there’s a few small boxes to moosh into. Nice one getting the V6 done! They are not easy!!
Hell yea 2019 board is siiick. Its also wild seeing pros climb stuff that I've done or given attempts at and showing just how good it can look when climbed really well
Haha wouldn’t consider myself a pro, but thank you 😀🙏
would love to see this done on the 2016 set
It’ll happen for sure!
Same
@@TomOHalloranAus I’d also love this for the 2017 set
@@TomOHalloranAus I also vote for this to be done on the 2016 set, the OG set 😃
FYI - KoalaClimbing is a dude from South Korea (if i am not mistaking a gym owner aswell)
He sometimes climbs together with HoseokLee - a (famous) Korea boulderer who got to double digit V grade super fast and trained mostly on the moonboard
Ahhh cool thanks. They moon board strong in Korea. I wonder what the koala connection is then?
he owns a gym called koala, hoseok is a friend of ours yeah. It is called that bc we always told chaeyeon (@koalaclimbing) that he looked like a koala
Such an awesome vid if you’re doing the 2016 moonboard may as well do the 2017 as well would be keen to see both
I’ll make it happen 👍
love this video format! if you are still wondering who KoalaClimbing is, he is the owner of a climbing gym here in Korea called Koala Climbing
Haha yeah, the Korean Climbing Koala! Who's a moonboard weapon as well
ronan come back to korea brother
Very cool video! Atm Im just getting into moonboarding so this was very interessting. Would be cool to see the differences between the sets.
Awesome. The moonboard journey is a good one! Very keen to make more vids with the other sets when I get the chance
You’re videos are so underrated
Haha thanks. Having fun making them!
@@TomOHalloranAus any tips for elbow tendinitis recovery besides just resting? Also you’re going to blow up soon just keep up the consistency and top tier videos!! 😁
Arm aid!! It made a major difference to mine. However there’s a ton of reasons it can kick off, so this may only fix what I had. Find a good Physio, they will be your best bet for a proper diagnosis and rehab
Awesome video Tom, wish there was a moonboard closer to me
They are pretty fun!
Awesome session man!
I have a moonboard in the backyard since all these lockdowns and I've never had a finger injury on it. Though I am projecting the V5 benchmarks so maybe that's why :)
I also think that there is a bit of negative talk about the moonboard being super jumpy but you used so much tension and really only jumped once I think. Kris Hampton should have a watch of this video!
You may be one of the ones clever enough to listen to your body (fingers) and not mince down on a weird stacked 2.5 finger crimp. Keep up the good work haha
Shed board gym? Sign me up!!
Haha totally!! How sick would that be!!
Damn the body tention you showed is inspiring! I feel like I have to cut feet all the time (which I'm terrible at) but it seems you can get super far with weighting your feet properly and using your core. I just need to it to be world class level XD
Yep, body tension is super useful, especially when your fingers are as weak as mine. I’m relatively weak on the fingerboard
@@TomOHalloranAus I hope to be as weak as you one of these day :D
Enjoyed the format of the video! Swapping between talking after the climbing to a cut away of you talking seemed good; Watching someone talk seems to be better than a voice over, by a lot. The fact that this cut away was outside meant it was was pleasant to look at, which probably helped too. My take away is try to avoid voiceovers because they feel disconnected. Don't be afraid to film with other people in the video, having the comradery in videos has definitely helped other climbing channels. I liked the idea of the video a bunch, as you're strong enough and experienced enough to climb almost all of the grades quickly & give a decent opinion on the grades. Unsurprising results, but that doesn't dampen the video in anyway. Look forward to more content, perhaps some videos of you and friends demolishing climbs at the local gym or crag? idk. GL!
Thanks for the idess
Since you are pretty strong and not having any problems with V3 problems on the Moonboard you might not know, but Maple is the least repeated simply because it is a new V3 benchmark! So not sure if you can compare this with the most repeated. And the benchmarks for me are super different in terms of difficulty. Actually the "Warm-Up Problem", the most repeated V3 is not doable for me (move to the right, black hold) while some of the least repeated routes were doable for me. Nice video!
Hey, yeah I figured I'd be running into the new ones through that method, rather than the hardest. Good luck getting Warm up done!
Great vid!
Cheers. Psyched you liked it :)
Yes, Shed full of boards and the millions of [insert monetary denomination] that it would take to purchase :D
Doesn’t Cujes live nearby? 😉😂
He lives a 2 minute walk away. It’s a dreamy set up 😍
Also Im looking forward to the second episode :D
It will happen 😀
I can’t even do a climb on the moonboard yet and here I am watching Tom like 🌚 🌝
Haha I can’t do 93% of the stuff I watch on TH-cam
The Woods board is insane. It is definitely the next level of board training.
I can't wait to see one! You have?
@@TomOHalloranAus ya, the prototype is at my home gym in Las Vegas. It's going to be good at so many things. So much thought put into every hold.
Ahhhh wowsers. That’s rad!! Very jealous haha
@@TomOHalloranAus if you ever find yourself out in Vegas check out The Pad Henderson. So much great climbing outside but the gym is a lot of fun in betweens sessions or uf it gets too hot outside.
a vegas trip is high on the list. I'll be sure to check it out if/when i get there! cheers
Excellent video
Thank you 🙏
This made me want to moonboard in tomorrows session
Haha awesome. I’m psyched to hear that 😀
Strong dude!!
Thanks 🙏
Great video.
But it has to be said that the benchmark problems, as ranked by number of repeats, also reflect the time as a benchmark. The ones with the most repeats have been around since 2019, and the more recent ones only have a few repeats because they reached like 50-100 repeats and then were deemed benchmarks via algorithm or consensus. So it is some type criteria to say best/worst or hardest/softest as determined by repeat count, but more likely it’s just reflection of how long it’s been an established problem.
Thank you for the hard work and commentary.
Yeah totally not a perfect system for the exact reason you mentioned. I wonder if there’s a better way to find out. Maybe we can get in contact with Mr Moon haha
more moonboard, please :)
For sure
Maple was the first problem I did. Felt hard
nice one to open the account with
"so I decided to just give it a bit of a rest"... *moves onto v12*
haha I'm not sure I can stand by my own logic here
Great video, thanks! Quick q; do you have any tips or thoughts on how to improve core tension? I thought that really stood out in how you moved on the board
TRX stuff is great, where you are holding the load/tension between upper limb and lower limb. It’s also as simple as consciously practicing it
Hi Tom, very informative video and useful beta as well! Curious, do you by chance know what your ape index is?
I think I’m around +10cm
Nice video :)
The Moonboard is also good for training the resistence, 20/25 moves is ok imho.
Yep for sure. I was doing a lot of endurance work on it prior to the Olympics.
top vid tom!
Thanks 🙏
Awesome video! Great so see some perspective given on the grading! Out of interest, had you done some of these before the video in your own training ?
Hadn’t done any of these before, all totally new. I’ve done very little on the Moonboard actually. Keen for more
Only at the first part of the video, so I don't know if pu're actually going to talk about it, but one thing I would like to mention is, how new the problems are. Maple got benchmarked not too long ago, which is why it doesn't have many repeats. It's not super easy, but I would argue that there are a couple ones which are a lot harder ;) (Ben Moon's custard Speedtalk for example). Same for the V4s (try t-rex which ist probably harder than some of the V6s depending on how glassy the black piches are). Oh, and Koala climbing is I think Korean and the name comes from his(?) climbing gym.
Yep the repeats is not the most scientific way of approaching it, but we had to start somewhere. It will always be hard to work out what is actually ‘the hardest’ one. I’ll for sure check out some of the ones you mentioned though!
@@TomOHalloranAus no worries! Really liked the video (and all of your content actually). But damn you’re strong!!
It seems like finger strength training is done purely with static loading - often shock static loading - mimicking the use-case for fingers in climbing.
And perhaps this is the best way to train the forearm muscles, but I'm not sure it's the best way to train the finger tendons and ligaments.
I've often thought that dynamic loading through a range of movement would do a better - and safer - job of training the tendons and ligaments of the fingers:
less static shock loading, and the movement would keep the structures involved better lubricated and oxygenated.
What do you think?
To be honest, I have no idea. Getting into the weeds of the science is not my cup of tea. As much as I find it fascinating to read and disgust, it’s all a bit too theoretical. I like a dose of fingerboarding and board climbing to keep my fingers progressing and have never felt like I’m missing out
@@TomOHalloranAus Hard to argue with the results you're getting ;)
From my understanding heavy slow isometric (static) loads like hangboarding tend to promote a more compliant tendon/pulley system which could be considered healthier, but less effective at producing force rapidly or what some people know of as contact strength. Plyometric type workouts like campusing or moonboarding tend to create a stiffer tendon/pully that allows faster force production (contact strength) but also increases the likelihood of tears. Depending on your level of climbing and other factors like how injury prone are you, a mix of the two would generally be pretty good to balance out having decent contact strength vs not getting injured.
That's my understanding anyway, feel free to correct me.
@@matthewking4883 Back when I was training, I used to try and figure out an effective way for me to do something like "finger tip curls" so that I was strength training across the full range of motion of the fingers. (something better than guitar grip trainers).
I speculated that this range of motion exercise would reduce repetitive loads on just one part of the ligament/tendon system, and keep the system better lubricated/oxygenated.
What do you think?
I'm sure it would have a bit of an effect but I wouldn't make it a large part of my training due to the lack of specificity to climbing. Seeing as slow isometric can already promote tendon health I think training a few different grip types would be a good way to not 'over' load one position.
Flo Wientjes sets at my local Gym. Hes so strong. If i remember correctly he set the only V13 Benchmark
Rad! I’ve looked at the 13 but not tried it yet. Looks good!
Would love for you to compare moonboard climbing to outdoor in terms of the physical limits and not technical. I know v10 and 11 outdoor climbers who max out at v8 on the moon who send double digits outside. I find this really interesting. You also have pro climbers who probably go through the same thing. The board is thought to be this awesome power and strength training tool for outdoor climbing. But many argue, in my circle at least, it's just too jumpy (i.e. 2017 board for example), and the tension board is much better for outdoor endeavors.
I think the moonboard, in terms of style, is not super comparable to outdoors. The energy systems sure, but the climbing style is so different. I haven’t struck many boulders/routes which climb like a moonboard problem. It is very fun though and that’s worth something. There are certainly some hard ones for the grade too. I’d say in average it must be out by a grade? Though I heard Ben moon talk about the grading once and said it’s just moonboard grades. There’s no correlation to outdoor grades
Great content. Tyty
Thank you!
koalaclimbing is korean i believe, he's friends with hoseok (unless im mistaken)
Ahhh cool. Thanks
Koala Climbing is the gym Hoseok climbs at
@@Carlosallouchimontero yup and its also the mb username of his friend
You should do a flexibility video, your footwork looks so fluid and mobile. I’d be keen on hearing your thoughts on the subject. good stuff, I’m a big fan keep it up 🙃
Definitely on the 'videos to make' list. psyched you're enjoying the video :)
Do you prefer the moon board over a spray wall? I heard Adam Ondra say he prefers a spray wall because it still allows you to use and learn how to use bigger footholds. I think he said he doesn’t hang board or moonboard often compared to just the spray wall.
I’m totally the same as Adam in that regard. Love the versatility of the spray wall. Also I haven’t fingerboarded in ages and my fingers are as strong as ever. Moonboard is fun though
@@TomOHalloranAus interesting you haven't fingerboarded in a long time. Do you feel there is a place for it in training. What portion of your training is on the spray wall? Do you have a video talking about what different training days are like for you?
@@Maniac45864 There is 100% a place for it in training. I've had a big stints of fingerboarding in the past. However board climbing with direction can do fairly good job of making your fingers strong too. It's defeinitly something I want to talk about in a video :)
koala climbing is a gym in south korea. Its called that because we always told the owner @koalachaeyeon that he looked like a koala xD
Haha great little insight. Cheers.
I think 9x 17y is placed at the wrong angle
at 8:42
I’ll do some checking. Cheers for the heads up
Another great Video. Safe some good video ideas for when you have 100 000 subscribes!
Haha thanks. There’s a back catalogue of ideas simmering away for me. Though just in case I run out, make sure you spread the word about the channel 😛
i notice u full crimp alot, or just wrap your thumbs around the hold when climbing these problems. do you have particular weaknesses with open hand or is this just preference?
Full crimp is definitely stronger than open for me, but open is not terrible. I’ll generally opt of full crimp whenever it counts
Since they release new problems over time, there's a chance that less climbed problems aren't necessarily harder, but just new. Still, even the "sort by easy" function is flawed since it relies on people changing the grade when they log it, and some may not. So, it's tricky. Nice content though 🙂
Yep, it’s an imperfect system. Glad you liked it though 😀
you earned my sub :)
Haha thanks 😀
I personally find the 'cutlooseornot' to be hardest 6a+ benchmark, because of one far move losing my feet. I flashed almost all of the rest of 6a+ benchmarks. But I can't finish this one, and it's really annoying, since its only a matter of my height...
I'll have to check it out. The dreaded cutloose is a killer. Good luck knocking it off.
nice! btw your i17 hold is off - it should be rotated like 30° clockwise
there's a couple holds on that board that aren't right. need to be tweaked. good eye
I find the holds on the moon board pretty aggressive much prefer the kilter board in that respect but the vicious crimpy style of the MB is certainly a lot more applicable to uk bouldering . how do you compare the two for climbing in AUS?
Kilterboard is probably closer to Aust bouldering I think. Though I haven’t got a ton of experience of bouldering in Aust. Moonboard is certainly a particular style
Unless I'm mistaken, I think koala climbing is a gym in Korea with a couple avid moon boarders
Koala board crew!
This Nick Wedge guy seems to be setting a lot of the lowest-repeat climbs haha. Also wonder if there's a recency element to it though - more recently set problems will naturally have fewer repeats
Some nice stout ones in there for sure. Yep, recency to being benchmarked will play a roll in repeats for sure. Not the most scientific approach, but a place to start. Suggestions welcome 😀
@@TomOHalloranAus a cool approach would be to mathematically model average number of repeats as a function of time since set, and then find the problems that deviate most drastically from the expected number of repeats based on their age.
There are other factors too though, I think it's definitely fair to say that some problems are more "fun" than others, and so even with all other variables fixed, a more "fun" problem will have more repeats.
@@codyheiner3636 absolutely
could the number of repeats be influenced by how recently a problem was added as a benchmark?
Yep, that’s 100% likely
Hey Tom, how much did you end up putting into the 2016 set timewise? I saw you way back in a moonpig tournament with the gwood crew boys from Adelaide, but never saw your name on much else from the 2016 set!
Very very little. I’d guess less than 5 total. I’ve really not spent much time moonboarding at all! That moonpig session was awesome. Perhaps need to make it happen again!
What is that chilly music playing here?
Below Horizon - Luwakas
Out of State - Dylan Sitts
Sidney - Luwakas
@@TomOHalloranAus thank you!!
Sadly this is not on the 2016 Set:(
Thankfully that will happen :)
Cool vid. How about someone chooses different climbs and you have to guess which has more repeats
Haha that’d be fun!
Gebrochener Knieboogie is german and translates to - the broken knee boogie
Haha classic name!
how tall are you?
181cm
Nice vid and strong.
Just FYI "Gebrochener Knieboogie" is German and it means broken knee boogie. 😉
Haha rad name! I like the boulder even more now
@@TomOHalloranAus I can imagine. Some boulder or routes are much better, when the name is funny or weird.
Totally!
Your approach to determining the easiest to hardest benchmark per grade is fairly close to being accurate. Benchmarks are added over time, so Maple for example is a new addition to the board and will naturally have less sends.
You’re going to want to look at when the climb is set compared to sends. Past is the hardest 6A+ benchmark if you use this approach.
Yes. I’m a Moonboard nerd. Sigh.
Sweet. I’ll have to check that one out. Would you say this would be a more reliable approach on the 2016 set?
@@TomOHalloranAus for sure! 2016 is close to peak benchmark saturation.
gg
How do you feel about full crimping while training? It seems like you full crimp a lot more than other pros. I find that I can pull a lot harder while full crimping, but try to avoid because it is uncomfortable.
Crimping is definitely my strongest grip. Though I’ll actually try to avoid it as much as possible when ‘training’ to try and bring up my open/chisel grip. But when it comes to ‘performing,’ the shackles are off and anything goes.
how the fuck do you keep your feet on for everything. Crazy body tension
Haha because if my feet come off, so do it. I do like keeping tension on moves. I'd be keen to make a video on how to keep tension at some point soon. New home woody should be built soon so I can make that happen :)
2017 is the worst grading consistency. Some hard 7c's among the 7a+
Haha isn't that most of the moonboard grading though? Yes that one seemed to have the biggest reputation for things not going well across several fronts.
Koala is Korean
Thanks. Korean Koalas!!
moonboard is pretty soft tbh
I’ve heard that a lot.