It takes a few minutes longer, but I like to chill the bearings in a freezer and heat the hub with a heat gun. Sometimes doing this will allow the bearings to fall into place with almost no driving required. A little heat also makes pulling the bearings a fair bit easier.
LOL! Link to bearing remover kit is $560. Of course that's cause it has a suzuki name on it. You can get them for under $100 or just bang them out if you know what you're doing. I have a pit posse one that I got for around $40. I have the motion pro driver kit and another one I got off ebay for different sizes that looks like the one in the video. They work great. Good vid though. I like partzilla for parts
great video, when I put my bike this afternoon from the standard, I heara kliking, at home i notished a litle rocking at my fronwheel, so I have to replace thebearings, my bike has run 186000KM so I think that is not bad
Mr. Talley would it be a good idea to heat up the hub and or put the bearings in the freezer before pushing in the bearings? Obviously not necessary but most bearing change jobs seem to do this under the belief that the hub inner surface is less damaged when driving in the new bearings.
Rajkiran Natarajan This can help, mainly on larger bearings. I just replaced the pivot bearings on the FD of my BMW paralever and the heating of housing and freezing of bearing didn’t help much. I’ve had other bearings where the bearing would simply drop in place with heating and cooling. So, I think the answer is: it depends. Most service manuals suggest pressing or driving in bearings just as John shows here. The only caveat with driving bearings is to be sure to drive on the outer race so that the pounding force is not being transmitted through the rolling elements of the bearing. Follow that rule, and you can pound on bearings all day.
While the inner spacer is out, you should cut a small notch, say maybe 1/8 inch at (12 and 6) on one end. That way a normal priced bearing remover can be used or a regular punch instead of having to spend a ridiculous amount of bank for one tool. Shame on Honda for this needless oversight.
I noticed that you didn't use new caliper bolts. (the 4 with nylock threads) Honda say replace these caliper bolts each time and not reuse. Would you not at least use some blue loc-tite on these?
Glad I seen your video I have a 2003 Honda Goldwing 93000 MI I hear a slight humming coming from the front and when I go to a turn it goes away when I straighten back up it starts humming again so I'm sure it's the wheel bearing
Removal of the left front caliper pads is a good idea but removal of the left front caliper is totally unnecessary. Remove the right front caliper and the wheel will roll out just fine without the need to remove either the left front caliper or the pads.
You are right. Pretty good shortcut. Also, by not removing the left caliper, you don't disturb the actuating rod for the anti dive valve. I usually just put some masking tape on both sides of the wheel so I don't scratch the wheel with a caliper as I roll it out.
Hi mr.John I was hoping you had a video of installing an engine on a quad.... it would help me out if I saw a professional doing it any help would be greatly appreciated
It takes a few minutes longer, but I like to chill the bearings in a freezer and heat the hub with a heat gun. Sometimes doing this will allow the bearings to fall into place with almost no driving required. A little heat also makes pulling the bearings a fair bit easier.
Very good (great) instruction video. Thanks!
LOL! Link to bearing remover kit is $560. Of course that's cause it has a suzuki name on it. You can get them for under $100 or just bang them out if you know what you're doing. I have a pit posse one that I got for around $40. I have the motion pro driver kit and another one I got off ebay for different sizes that looks like the one in the video. They work great. Good vid though. I like partzilla for parts
great video, when I put my bike this afternoon from the standard, I heara kliking, at home i notished a litle rocking at my fronwheel, so I have to replace thebearings, my bike has run 186000KM so I think that is not bad
Mr. Talley would it be a good idea to heat up the hub and or put the bearings in the freezer before pushing in the bearings? Obviously not necessary but most bearing change jobs seem to do this under the belief that the hub inner surface is less damaged when driving in the new bearings.
Rajkiran Natarajan This can help, mainly on larger bearings. I just replaced the pivot bearings on the FD of my BMW paralever and the heating of housing and freezing of bearing didn’t help much. I’ve had other bearings where the bearing would simply drop in place with heating and cooling. So, I think the answer is: it depends. Most service manuals suggest pressing or driving in bearings just as John shows here. The only caveat with driving bearings is to be sure to drive on the outer race so that the pounding force is not being transmitted through the rolling elements of the bearing. Follow that rule, and you can pound on bearings all day.
While the inner spacer is out, you should cut a small notch, say maybe 1/8 inch at (12 and 6) on one end. That way a normal priced bearing remover can be used or a regular punch instead of having to spend a ridiculous amount of bank for one tool. Shame on Honda for this needless oversight.
I noticed that you didn't use new caliper bolts. (the 4 with nylock threads) Honda say replace these caliper bolts each time and not reuse. Would you not at least use some blue loc-tite on these?
Glad I seen your video I have a 2003 Honda Goldwing 93000 MI I hear a slight humming coming from the front and when I go to a turn it goes away when I straighten back up it starts humming again so I'm sure it's the wheel bearing
You are great
Wonder if we could put the bearings in the freezer before driving them in?
Great Video , the way you explain and show the work is awesome!! very helpful and allows me to perform my own work and save a few dollars. Thanks
Removal of the left front caliper pads is a good idea but removal of the left front caliper is totally unnecessary. Remove the right front caliper and the wheel will roll out just fine without the need to remove either the left front caliper or the pads.
You are right. Pretty good shortcut. Also, by not removing the left caliper, you don't disturb the actuating rod for the anti dive valve. I usually just put some masking tape on both sides of the wheel so I don't scratch the wheel with a caliper as I roll it out.
Thankyou Sir, you make some good tutorials
Great videos!! I want your torque wrench. What brand is it?
SnapOn!
Bearing + hammer is probably a bad idea
pisiont groszy Not if you know what you are doing.
Hi Mr. John, question, my GL1800 2007, it has abs flashing issue. Sometimes it doesnt but mostly abs light is blinking. How can I solve this? Thanks
Hi mr.John I was hoping you had a video of installing an engine on a quad.... it would help me out if I saw a professional doing it any help would be greatly appreciated
Perfeito