MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
25 years ago I renovated our 1920 gambrel roofed house. We live in snowy Pennsylvania. . I "accidentally" , by luck I suppose did something similar with 2" heavy industrial ceiling tiles 2'x 4' from an office warehouse that were being thrown away. They were NASTY huge fiberglass chards and we furred out the house and I filled all the 2' gaps with the ceiling tiles. And although there was thermal bridging at the furring it did essentially the same thing allowing some air movement from the bottom behind the siding. The rain screen (in your case black) I used was Tyvek. ...WOW has this accidental system held up well. My siding is meticulously attached flitch hemlock natural edged siding, full 1" (no taper) . I used only stainless screws, only under the lap, figuring if the boards ever warped or cupped I could face screw. ....25 years, no movement. All the trim boards/corner boards are massive 3" x 4" toe screwed from the edges (screws are hidden once siding is on). I was concerned about bugs getting behind the siding, but that has never occurred. The house was very carefully insulated and sealed with fiberglass Batts in the bays, and them vapor barriered with heavy mil plastic. It is super easy to heat in winter and very easy to keep comfortable in summer (most times window open at night). It's only 1200 Sq. Ft and heats with a first floor centrally located Vermont Castings stove, 1-2 cords annually. We do have high efficiency boiler and radiant floors and cast baseboard, but love wood heat. Perhaps my only mistake was consumer grade windows. We did a high end standing seam roof, which we LOVE. R
very interesting! Matt, you're probably the most referenced builder I've come across as several DIY Builders are mentioning your vids in their streams. Cheers!
Just by simply running the strapping, furring strips or in this case Advantech, diagonally, you still can hang vertical siding AND have strapping every 16"OC and hit the studs! Less labor and less materials too without the risk of standing water on horizontal furring strips!
I am building a similar facade suystem, just mine has a barrier applied over and only vertical battens, you can see on my videos the way you can secure the wool to the walls before the vertical batten.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package th-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
Small rock particles particularly silicates are incredibly carcinogenic when inhaled. Many of the small benchtop installers will die in their mid forties from cutting benchtops without pretection.
I saw one builder actually used spacers under the horizontal plywoid strips. They were pencil size with a hole in the middle for the screw to go through. The spacers were 3 inches long so the Rockwool doesnt get compressed. They are small amd you just stick them through the wool. Perfect spacing every time
In the commercial construction world we will often use "Z" furring to bridge the insulation from the back up wall to the external siding material . I would be concerned that my exterior siding is supported by the shear strength of screws that are cantilevered out thru 3 inches of insulation. Mr. Risinger, a fun / informative "shop" video would be a see this wall section mocked up without the insulation in the shop. I would like to see how adding weight to the siding side bends the screws, if they bend at all.
Im curious what the z furring install would look like. Is the flashing just run vertical along the sheathing, with insulation in between? I imagine this install is trying to reduce thermal bridging, but the concern about deflection makes sense.
FYI: Similar construction for my project, but 2" rigid foam instead of 3" Roxul, and no horizontal purlins. We used 5-5/8" GRK #12 structural screws to make sure no shear strength issues. Also used 5/4" deck boards since they are pressure treated. I am not sure if the advancetec flooring ripped into strips is going to last. I think time & moisture is going to lead to issues using the advancetec OSB flooring panels. My guess is that going with the 5/4" deck boards would have been cheaper, considering all the labor need to rip the advancetech into strips. I suppose with Matt's friend project going with an even heavier structural screw would be a safe bet (ie 5/16" or even 3/8") but that's gets expensive.FWIW: I opted for Rigid foam instead or roxul comfortbatt since roxul has a lower R-value per thinkness & it can require a extended delivery schedule since its not widely available everywhere. We did go with Thermastar Rigid panels since they do include an insectide to prevent ants and other bugs making tunnels in the foam. The pros for roxul exterior insulation is that its completely fireproof & isn't vulnerable to insect damage. Cons: more expensive & likely increased delivery times.
Rockwool is nowhere near as dirty as some make it out to be. They have been operating for decades in Europe and if there was any real issues they simply would been shut down a long time ago. I can't say for sure, but it would not be beyond some other companies making other types of insulation to be doing their best to make things difficult for Rockwool. The fact that wool made from stone doesn't burn is enough of a benefit with Rockwool to make most other types of insulation look really silly. I know what I will be using for insulation that is for sure.
Exterior insulation is called "continuous insulation" and has been around for decades. I recommend using Rockwool or Hemp-batting for interior walls, and for the exterior (continuous insulation) using rigid foam, as it is denser and more weather resistant. The best type of rigid foam for homes would be foil-lined XPS rigid foam. And yes, you want to create a small gap between your continuous insulation and the exterior siding... this is to PREVENT what they call thermal-bridging (meaning to transfer heat/cold from the exterior towards the interior).
Matt, you need to check out GreenGirt. Solves this whole assembly problem with a composite z-girt that has metal reinforcing. It would replace the mechanical fasteners for the rockwool and also replace the vertical sheathing strips and thin corex pieces. Pretty neat system. Can be installed horizontally or vertically.
It took me a few minutes to figure out we were looking at the outside of the wall. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how the framing of this house was working. I kept saying there is no vertical load capacity, I have to be missing something. Doh!
@@toddoliver3385 Ah, that makes sense in the context of the screws attaching the insulation having a full 3/4" grip. I thought at first they were talking about attaching 3/4" siding from the back (blind screwing) and having a full 3/4" of grip, that didn't make sense.
So if you mount a floor joist vertical . any critter will knaw thru your barrier. We get 120" rain here . 60 mph winds an high humidity. Moss grows on trees 1' thick. Not sure your wall system will keep rockwool dry. Had to re side our casino due to construction defect. Salt air will rust a ac unit in five years!
Palm beach county, when it built its courthouse, had to use man made mineral fiber, MMMF, instead of regular fiberglass insulation because of the higher fire rating required of a public bldg. There was a problem with the window system and it leaked in a storm and the insulation got wet. There are chemicals that help the material bind to itself like a glue would. Mold started growing on (ie eating) those chemicals. I did not watch all your post but I suspect your rockwool would have the same prob if it got wet. But the attachment skin might provide a good mold barrier if this occurred.
Yeah I thought that was a really stupid analogy Fat cells/a.k.a. fat is what is stuck between your ribs organs and body between your skin and muscles and the outside elements. And being that I’m a fat cuddly puffball, I can totally confirm I get cold messages below 50 without a coat and unfortunately full of fat beside my body
If I can save up enough money I hope to redo my roof in metal, extend the overhangs, and add external insulation to the walls. . unfortunately I'll probably have to get new siding after that, but if I can save up even more money I might go with metal siding as well.
The bigger-than-fist-sized holes we had in all kinds of construction here in OKC in 2010 in ALL types of construction make me wonder "what's the absolutely best solution?" Some holes in foam commercial stucco type construction were bigger than softball.
When I was building we put 1" XPS Dow foam board on top of the house wrap, then just nailed siding right onto that. Added R 5 to already highly insulated exterior walls. Super warm houses (in a colder climate). Anyway I like this idea.
I'd change the exterior wrap (UV protected) for a radiant barrier. Then you'd see "shiny" between the gaps in the rain screen, not that it matters, but a radiant barrier is missing from the wall assembly. R 4/inch I believe is that compressed rock wool insulation and would be my first choice because polyiso (R 6.6/inch) off gasses eventually. Bad for the planet, but what planet? Should we even worry about that anymore? I built a house this way using CMU's (blocks) structurally in 2002. I have another on the drawing board now. I'm putting a 1" layer of insulation over the Concrete structure, glued and screwed. A #8 deck screw follows a 1/8th inch masonry bit into concrete perfectly, self tapping and secure, once. Use a washer to hold the panels securely against the flat concrete surface. Then, a 2x4 steel stud frame, balloon framed with blocking every 4' horizontally and the cavities carefully insulated. This part I haven't done. I need a way to use those decks screws, longer this time, to attach the steel frame to the concrete wall, through the 1" uninterrupted layer of insulation. Not many. The steel studs and 3 1/2" insulation have to fit tightly together, the 2' centers may be lost, but I think they'll work out almost perfectly. Start in the middle and work towards both sides. Diagonal bracing might be "let-in" steel braces (flush with stud nailing surface) or sheathing, then the radiant barrier, and a "hat channel" horizontally every 2' bottom to top. Hang either metal siding or treated wood siding, something light weight and weatherproof. Corners can be pre-broken metal or something sturdy enough to add strength. Rough Openings are 1/4" all around, bigger than any finish frame, door or window. Doors and windows are 'suspended' in place (perfectly plumb and level and parallel to the inside finish surface, then held in place with low expansion foam, which continues (maintains the integrity) of the insulation/air/vapor barrier layer "to the glass" of the inside of windows or doors. It's inexpensive enough compared to anything I've researched and should be fairly easy to install, especially on smaller buildings. Here in the desert, it separates the conditioned space from the outside world which is heated by radiant heat. All the stucco houses don't deal with radiant heat, they actually capture heat and re-radiate it into the conditioned space long after the sun is down.
I am buying a 40 year old house built with CMU. I am planning to add exterior insulation and then horizontal drop siding. There is not much information out there about this. Is it possible to speak with you about this?
Hey Matt it is almost mandatory here in Ontario to do it maybe a costly but it works out cheaper in the end and to be honest most of our jobs we being doing it
I think a part 2 on that video should be done because I'm like with a lot of people was I looking in the interior of the house or the exterior of the house? Also I'd like to see how that was done to be honest with you so if you could do like a test thing that would be awesome.
I am a diy guy and looking to build most of my house by myself and learning all I can before I build. Looking for all videos on rockwool and how to frame the walls or attach exterior insulation.
At 2:32 there's a mention of backing out caps / screws and just holding the mineral wool in place with the battens. I'd like saving those expensive screws, but don't they leave hundreds of small holes in the air control layer when they are backed out?
Love mineral wool. I just wish it was cheaper and more rigid. I want to add it to the outside of my OSB before I put on the Tyvek and siding but not sure how to do it. I'm getting flack from my architect. I've used it before in my music recording room and wow I liked the effect.
Finally a detail that keeps bulk water off the battens. Spiders love the open siding detail so hopefully the toxic bug spray won’t melt the housewrap. 😂
it should be noted that the screws attaching the furring would not reach the studs regardless of where they were placed. a 6" screw is just long enough to allow the tip of the screw to reach the interior edge of the sheathing. thus, you get no thermal bridging into the wall cavity via the screws. that probably explains why the builder used ripped 1.125" Advantech sheathing for furring instead of using conventional 1x furring strips.
Would a vertical Cor-A-Vent or Keen fur strip and then horizontal furring strips achieve the same results? I'm wondering if the Cor-A-Vent or Keen may be more cost effective?
Just moved to fire country here in CA (traded earthquake for fire). I'm thinking that rockwool stuff might make good mulch up here... conventional forms of mulch are discouraged here, 'cause they catch on fire... esp. in the first 5' from the building...
Very interesting idea! We need all the fireproofing materials and techniques we can get! Traditional mulch is just more fuel. Perhaps rockwool could be used with a gravel cover.
Kind of like a strawbale wrap-but less effective. Those are upwards of R-45. You want to 'control moisture in that space'? use an earth plaster. It works to automatically regulate humidity.
I live in northern Minnesota and looking to insulate overly well. Last year we hit -52 degrees, yes, -52, therefore looking to keep as much heat in as possible, and not to have to redo in at least 20-30 years. Interested in your thoughts and a possible video in the future. Thanks for the information.
New construction or retrofit? Big difference. Regardless, check out Joe Lstiburek’s “Beyond Passive” talk for some extreme cold climate lessons. As my own two cents I would just add that those new to “high performance” tend to jump right into thinking about R-values because it’s got a number on it when really airtightness and keeping the innermost airtight layer at or close enough to interior design temperature and avoiding accumulating and trapping moisture inside the wall and roof systems is the bigger challenge. Anyone can spec R-80 walls as an exercise in spending money, less people can get such walls to stay bone dry and never develop moisture related issues.
Matt good morning can you do something on remodel for bathroom installations for the showers and all of that what type of insulation behind the shower walls if any
Roxul is a good choice in my opinion. Considering:1. its hydrophobic (does not absorb water) but is moisture permeable. If I recall correctly mold cannot grow on Roxul2. Easy to install (DIY) & easy to remove if you need to do any future repairs (unlike spray foam, or cellious). 3. Fire proof & sound absorption.4. You can buy it at your local Lowes (usually)
Super Nice! -- QUESTION -- To my mind, Rockwool, which I love, is more like a wool sweater on a cold day - it only works if you have a windproof gortex type jacket on top of it. Regardless of the stated R value of a "sweater" the wind blows through it easily, unless you have a windbreaker on it. So why does the cold air not flow right through Rockwool?
We spent a year building ultra straight walls, marble, gold, then it burned to the ground. Should have installed sprinklers and trimmed the brush back 100 feet.
Thanks, is something that could go over a older masonry home? Just watching the video seems like a logical fix for old block homes in Arizona with no insulation in the walls. Everybody's been trying to do the spray foam injections in the wall cavities but not for nothing you're only injecting three and a half inch cavity not the whole wall. Your thoughts?
It does not absorb water. It is in fact the opposite of hydrophobic. Rockwool insulation does not wick water, which means that any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be absorbed into the body of the insulation. @@SteelBuckeye
No joke ^. I live in NJ and have a place in Austin. They are streaming in from California and the Northeast. When I moved to Austin 5 years ago my Uhaul truck was $2700 from NJ>TX when we had to come back a year later that same truck was $700 from TX to NJ (I probably could have gotten it for free haha) . There's all sorts of construction going on in Austin from cranes downtown to 8000 sq foot customs in the burbs to massive subdivisions. Lots of $$$ pouring in and unfavorable politics too if you ask the old timers.....
Be careful. That smells of jealousy. I applaud the guy for living his American dream and attaining his/her life goals. I wish I could get a sneak peak at that siding. Is it similar to the wood on the house that you toured that Steve Basic was the architect on (obviously vertical though)?
Run 'em out! ;) "Vote democrat & expect your new house to burn, baby burn!" I imagine that's what he was expecting so decided to use rockwool, now if he's still got asphalt shingles... ;)
Rain screens (cladding) are a great idea but they have an unexpected danger - fire. If made of flammable materials, especially when vented at top and bottom, they form an excellent chimney for flames to quickly rise. That contributed to the horrid apartment fires in London in the last few years. Same problem as the old balloon framing technique that we’ve abandoned. The rockwool is fine but the rest is fuel. Definitely a ‘killer assembly’, unfortunately.
Rockwool is very fire resistant if the entire house was wrapped in it the attic would have at least two layers as well and the roof would be covered in it too. You could mitigate the flammablity of the bracing by using certain types pressure treated lumber (more expensive, and need compatible fasteners) and it would become fire proof. The London fire the rain screen was made of extremely flammable non-approved foam bonded to flammble metal siding that melted off. The building was also >15 stories vs a typical house that is just 2 stories and the top does not terminate into the air like the apartment building did but terminates under the soffet so the chimmney effect would be minimal. In commercial rain screen assemblies they use steel and rockwool these are completely immune to fire and are a very safe and killer efficient assembly. The london rain screen was not approved for the apartments even before the ban.
@Matt - thanks for the video. What kind of moisture/vapour barrier is between the rockwool and the 3/4 sheathing? Are they using Delta Vent SA or something else?
Many innovative construction techniques are out there. How advanced & how innovative is just a matter of $$$. The stone wool costs significantly more than most people can afford. Sad, but true.
Excellent. Very interest. The horizontal nailers should add huge strength. I agree with the idea of exterior insulation and have used it. My concern is the longevity of mineral wool. I love the fire resistance and R value and sound peoofing. The fibers are brittle, abrasive and very irritating. Brittle means that over time they can breakdown. Can you 0lesde address that?
personally I like the outside of a house to be thick wood or stone or bricks, just for the idea of being a house and not a lot of artificial stuff of wool and carboard i don't no how stitched to a house somewhere below. Would you buy a house you can't see the actual wall of?
How does the inner part of the siding dry since it’s put on the black UV screen? Is there any gap between the siding and the UV screen? If so, how is it realized? Otherwise this part will accumulate humidity over time.
Hundreds of 6" metal fastening screws will provide a thermal path directly through all that insulation, and give a cold surface for vapor to condense. Any solutions to this?
rockwool is made with slag, which is a waste product already it's production is not damaging no more than any other production process; the manufacturer tries to get away with what they can. like all heavy producers, they make a mess, but there is nothing inherently toxic about it.
@@josephmiller9141 It ends up having actually nothing to do with Rockwool production. It's simply a small group in a small rural aggro town shouting, not in my back yard. Meanwhile, they aren't even considering that this plant would help fight climate change. Which will have a far more damaging effect on their town.
@Phil Perri oh horseshit. Firstly...they are a EUR 2.2 billion company and only do 20% of their business in the states. And when you're a billion dollar company you get sued for anything by asshats looking for a quick payday. Secondly, I highly doubt the environmental standards in the US are higher than in the EU. I've specced and used rockwool for almost a decade and never had issues or complaints. So I doubt a 110 year d company is gonna slit it's own throat by over polluting.
How thick would an R 38 wall need to be? And would A product like spray in bed truck liner be helpful. Or fiberglass sheeting that is "Bondoed" in place. All electric and water be commercial grade.
If horizontal strapping has already been done (by mistake) Does it need to be removed so the air flow channel is on the rockwool side? In other words changing the layers we see so that the vertical strapping is on the outside and the horizontal is against the rockwool. The cladding is barnwood mounted vertically.
@@pro272727 Thx Is that enough? Or does that add to the insulation in the "ribs" I am thinking you'll need 3 times that or 9" to get in the 30's for someone building in the north.
@@JohnSmith-se8pf I live in Ohio and 12 is what is in most walls that I have seen, unless the wall is built with 2x6. Now your attic space you want more, because heat rises, R36 or higher. Watch "Building Science Insights -- To Vent or Not to Vent", it's a great video on insulating and venting.
Probably peel and stick. Or possibly a drain wrap with a low permeability. You'd want that to protect the sheathing for a really long time. My guess is the inside isn't foam.
Won't this act similar a concrete wall? Soaking up day time sun and releasing it into the house at night? Or is there an air gap between the cladding and the rockwool?
I'm getting ready to build a home and someone please answer me... What is the difference between this and what used to be called asbestos? Aren't they both mineral wools?
Is there any reason not to use a rainscreen exterior in the rainforests of Oregon? I don't see it in use and it seems like a no-brainer unless the high humidity would prevent drying out.
Uh.... that's what's going on in *this* video. The WRB would almost certainly be applied to the sheeting which is *under* the rockwell. And, just to be clear, we are looking at the outside of the wall in this video.
Stephen Speicher actually it’s not. There’s a wrap product on that piece of the structure and that’s all he’s allowed to show. The wrap isn’t the issue; some fluid-applied barriers don’t like to be in contact with other certain products. But I did get my answer from Prosoco though.
Marcus Fant The black wrap is an aesthetic detail not for wrb. The cladding will have gaps and they wanted to show black between the cladding and not the furring and rockwool.
FWIW: My guess is that the home will have interior insulation. The 3" roxul is only about R-12. FWIW: I believe the costs for roxul is about 2 to 4 times more expensive than rigid foam for exterior insulation.
I did rockwool in my walls and ceiling. Stuff is the worst to deal with. It makes for a miserable day as little bits fall all over you. It is much harder to deal with than standard fiberglass, especially overhead. The stuff gets in your eyes, down your back, on your arms, in your ears. They should really package with some vapor barrier wrapper just for handling.
I have used rockwool a couple of times and that was not my experience. While it can still make you itch it is nothing compared to fiberglass. It is also sooo much easier to work with.
Not my experience. Way better than Fiberglass batts, and you could have used a hooded Tyvex suit & safety glass or full face shield during the install.
I used sound and safe in a remodel ceiling I kinda liked doing it.( I assume it is the same basic thing just in fluffy sheets) Little dirty but way better than fiberglass.
what's with the osb furring strips though? it's not a good idea to use those in areas that can get wet right? you said there will be small cracks where a few drops of water may get through. with normal wood as long as it can breathe its ok. but with osb that stuff will denigrate back there and noone will know until the vertical siding starts to fall off. probably could have used pieces of the vertical siding as furring strips to attach to maybe.
the furring strips will be behind the polyolefin UV stable sheet; with the PO seams likely managed behind the siding panels. I have hard time imagining a scenario where the OSB will actually get wet, provided that they don't experience massive flooding.
@@Lilmiket1000 No problem. Also, I think you're right on the money W/R/T "AdvanTech Decking" being a type of OSB, I think Nick is just eating marketing material with his Wheaties.
Also remember there is drying capacity in that wall with the battens and bug screen. And Advantec holds something like a 200 day no-sand guarantee when it is subfloor (ie puddled water). So it shouldn't be an issue in that wall assembly.
Why would you install exterior siding that has gaps that are large enough for the SUN to shine through? Isn't the point to stop water? And if the sun can get through the gaps in your protection, so can water.
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MUY buena calidad, el texto imagenes. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO Un manuel muy completo y trabajado. Resulta muy práctico. Para principiantes y profesionales. Lo recomiendo
25 years ago I renovated our 1920 gambrel roofed house. We live in snowy Pennsylvania. . I "accidentally" , by luck I suppose did something similar with 2" heavy industrial ceiling tiles 2'x 4' from an office warehouse that were being thrown away. They were NASTY huge fiberglass chards and we furred out the house and I filled all the 2' gaps with the ceiling tiles. And although there was thermal bridging at the furring it did essentially the same thing allowing some air movement from the bottom behind the siding. The rain screen (in your case black) I used was Tyvek. ...WOW has this accidental system held up well. My siding is meticulously attached flitch hemlock natural edged siding, full 1" (no taper) . I used only stainless screws, only under the lap, figuring if the boards ever warped or cupped I could face screw. ....25 years, no movement. All the trim boards/corner boards are massive 3" x 4" toe screwed from the edges (screws are hidden once siding is on). I was concerned about bugs getting behind the siding, but that has never occurred. The house was very carefully insulated and sealed with fiberglass Batts in the bays, and them vapor barriered with heavy mil plastic. It is super easy to heat in winter and very easy to keep comfortable in summer (most times window open at night). It's only 1200 Sq. Ft and heats with a first floor centrally located Vermont Castings stove, 1-2 cords annually. We do have high efficiency boiler and radiant floors and cast baseboard, but love wood heat. Perhaps my only mistake was consumer grade windows. We did a high end standing seam roof, which we LOVE. R
sounds good
very interesting! Matt, you're probably the most referenced builder I've come across as several DIY Builders are mentioning your vids in their streams. Cheers!
Just by simply running the strapping, furring strips or in this case Advantech, diagonally, you still can hang vertical siding AND have strapping every 16"OC and hit the studs! Less labor and less materials too without the risk of standing water on horizontal furring strips!
Is it possible to do a video on how you tie in rockwool on the walls and roof, how they come together, and soffet framing?
I am building a similar facade suystem, just mine has a barrier applied over and only vertical battens, you can see on my videos the way you can secure the wool to the walls before the vertical batten.
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package th-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
We use those 3-inch Roxul products for sound absorption panels, bass traps, etc. It has outstanding acoustic performance.
I have used Rockwool on many studio projects. Very economical solution if applied correctly.
It’s does last I knew they were using slag waste
Phil Perri - what type of toxic waste? Could you elaborate?
Small rock particles particularly silicates are incredibly carcinogenic when inhaled. Many of the small benchtop installers will die in their mid forties from cutting benchtops without pretection.
@@aidansharples7751 and cement mizing too?
I saw one builder actually used spacers under the horizontal plywoid strips. They were pencil size with a hole in the middle for the screw to go through. The spacers were 3 inches long so the Rockwool doesnt get compressed. They are small amd you just stick them through the wool. Perfect spacing every time
We figured this out installing gutters 150 years ago
In the commercial construction world we will often use "Z" furring to bridge the insulation from the back up wall to the external siding material . I would be concerned that my exterior siding is supported by the shear strength of screws that are cantilevered out thru 3 inches of insulation. Mr. Risinger, a fun / informative "shop" video would be a see this wall section mocked up without the insulation in the shop. I would like to see how adding weight to the siding side bends the screws, if they bend at all.
I really like this idea, particularly when compared to the z-channel support.
Im curious what the z furring install would look like.
Is the flashing just run vertical along the sheathing, with insulation in between?
I imagine this install is trying to reduce thermal bridging, but the concern about deflection makes sense.
This thread on GBA has a lot of good info on this subject: www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/question/stability-of-wall-when-using-exterior-insulation.
@@pnwbuilder ty
FYI: Similar construction for my project, but 2" rigid foam instead of 3" Roxul, and no horizontal purlins. We used 5-5/8" GRK #12 structural screws to make sure no shear strength issues. Also used 5/4" deck boards since they are pressure treated. I am not sure if the advancetec flooring ripped into strips is going to last. I think time & moisture is going to lead to issues using the advancetec OSB flooring panels. My guess is that going with the 5/4" deck boards would have been cheaper, considering all the labor need to rip the advancetech into strips. I suppose with Matt's friend project going with an even heavier structural screw would be a safe bet (ie 5/16" or even 3/8") but that's gets expensive.FWIW: I opted for Rigid foam instead or roxul comfortbatt since roxul has a lower R-value per thinkness & it can require a extended delivery schedule since its not widely available everywhere. We did go with Thermastar Rigid panels since they do include an insectide to prevent ants and other bugs making tunnels in the foam. The pros for roxul exterior insulation is that its completely fireproof & isn't vulnerable to insect damage. Cons: more expensive & likely increased delivery times.
Rockwool just started building a plant in my neck of the woods, and man are people up in arms about it
Rockwool is nowhere near as dirty as some make it out to be. They have been operating for decades in Europe and if there was any real issues they simply would been shut down a long time ago.
I can't say for sure, but it would not be beyond some other companies making other types of insulation to be doing their best to make things difficult for Rockwool. The fact that wool made from stone doesn't burn is enough of a benefit with Rockwool to make most other types of insulation look really silly. I know what I will be using for insulation that is for sure.
I saw a ton of signs about it when I was last near Harpers Ferry.
Matt seems to focus on custom homes for the rich and famous. Who's a good TH-camr with construction ideas for us common folk?
everyone follows the money
Sounds pretty neat. Wish you could show more detail on the science behind their process.
Amazing! I'm building my house all myself and this would work perfectly!
Landon if your a millionaire
Always positive and upbeat!
I love these videos. 100% for Rockwool and made in Canada.
I would like to see another video on installing this. Very interested.
Exterior insulation is called "continuous insulation" and has been around for decades. I recommend using Rockwool or Hemp-batting for interior walls, and for the exterior (continuous insulation) using rigid foam, as it is denser and more weather resistant. The best type of rigid foam for homes would be foil-lined XPS rigid foam. And yes, you want to create a small gap between your continuous insulation and the exterior siding... this is to PREVENT what they call thermal-bridging (meaning to transfer heat/cold from the exterior towards the interior).
I love these videos, and then sad because I know the house I live in is probably inferior to any things built today. Then I move on with my life
I would love to see the detail around windows and doors insulating this way
Yes, the details of how to frame in door and windows it was is the most tricky here
@@ctgottapee maybe 2x8's....run the cost up too.
Matt, you need to check out GreenGirt. Solves this whole assembly problem with a composite z-girt that has metal reinforcing. It would replace the mechanical fasteners for the rockwool and also replace the vertical sheathing strips and thin corex pieces. Pretty neat system. Can be installed horizontally or vertically.
Awesome. Thank you.
It took me a few minutes to figure out we were looking at the outside of the wall. I was scratching my head trying to figure out how the framing of this house was working. I kept saying there is no vertical load capacity, I have to be missing something. Doh!
I'm with you.......wasn't able to follow visually.....Didn't know what I was looking.
Me too, I'm still not clear where the studs are, if any.
@@garywheeler7039 behind the 3" of insulation is 3/4" plywood, the studs are behind that plywood.
thought the same thing.
@@toddoliver3385 Ah, that makes sense in the context of the screws attaching the insulation having a full 3/4" grip. I thought at first they were talking about attaching 3/4" siding from the back (blind screwing) and having a full 3/4" of grip, that didn't make sense.
So if you mount a floor joist vertical . any critter will knaw thru your barrier. We get 120" rain here . 60 mph winds an high humidity. Moss grows on trees 1' thick. Not sure your wall system will keep rockwool dry. Had to re side our casino due to construction defect. Salt air will rust a ac unit in five years!
Palm beach county, when it built its courthouse, had to use man made mineral fiber, MMMF, instead of regular fiberglass insulation because of the higher fire rating required of a public bldg. There was a problem with the window system and it leaked in a storm and the insulation got wet. There are chemicals that help the material bind to itself like a glue would. Mold started growing on (ie eating) those chemicals. I did not watch all your post but I suspect your rockwool would have the same prob if it got wet. But the attachment skin might provide a good mold barrier if this occurred.
+ large roof overhangs
Hmm, just tried stuffing insulation between my ribs. Definitely does not work as well as a coat. Also, I'm dead.
Did you vote Democrat?
Hey. it's called "getting fat"
At least when you died, the itching stopped!
Yeah I thought that was a really stupid analogy
Fat cells/a.k.a. fat is what is stuck between your ribs organs and body between your skin and muscles and the outside elements.
And being that I’m a fat cuddly puffball, I can totally confirm I get cold messages below 50 without a coat and unfortunately full of fat beside my body
Pleb, u have to use a small drill bit and spray foam. 😂
love your tubes dude! lots of info and insights and current trends! i learn a lot watching! thanks
If I can save up enough money I hope to redo my roof in metal, extend the overhangs, and add external insulation to the walls. . unfortunately I'll probably have to get new siding after that, but if I can save up even more money I might go with metal siding as well.
The bigger-than-fist-sized holes we had in all kinds of construction here in OKC in 2010 in ALL types of construction make me wonder "what's the absolutely best solution?" Some holes in foam commercial stucco type construction were bigger than softball.
Awesome video .. thanks for sharing the details Matt. My new house will be completed this month.
Nice ! Thanks for sharing Matt !
Learning so much...
When I was building we put 1" XPS Dow foam board on top of the house wrap, then just nailed siding right onto that. Added R 5 to already highly insulated exterior walls. Super warm houses (in a colder climate). Anyway I like this idea.
I'd change the exterior wrap (UV protected) for a radiant barrier. Then you'd see "shiny" between the gaps in the rain screen, not that it matters, but a radiant barrier is missing from the wall assembly. R 4/inch I believe is that compressed rock wool insulation and would be my first choice because polyiso (R 6.6/inch) off gasses eventually. Bad for the planet, but what planet? Should we even worry about that anymore? I built a house this way using CMU's (blocks) structurally in 2002. I have another on the drawing board now.
I'm putting a 1" layer of insulation over the Concrete structure, glued and screwed. A #8 deck screw follows a 1/8th inch masonry bit into concrete perfectly, self tapping and secure, once. Use a washer to hold the panels securely against the flat concrete surface. Then, a 2x4 steel stud frame, balloon framed with blocking every 4' horizontally and the cavities carefully insulated. This part I haven't done. I need a way to use those decks screws, longer this time, to attach the steel frame to the concrete wall, through the 1" uninterrupted layer of insulation. Not many.
The steel studs and 3 1/2" insulation have to fit tightly together, the 2' centers may be lost, but I think they'll work out almost perfectly. Start in the middle and work towards both sides. Diagonal bracing might be "let-in" steel braces (flush with stud nailing surface) or sheathing, then the radiant barrier, and a "hat channel" horizontally every 2' bottom to top. Hang either metal siding or treated wood siding, something light weight and weatherproof. Corners can be pre-broken metal or something sturdy enough to add strength. Rough Openings are 1/4" all around, bigger than any finish frame, door or window. Doors and windows are 'suspended' in place (perfectly plumb and level and parallel to the inside finish surface, then held in place with low expansion foam, which continues (maintains the integrity) of the insulation/air/vapor barrier layer "to the glass" of the inside of windows or doors. It's inexpensive enough compared to anything I've researched and should be fairly easy to install, especially on smaller buildings. Here in the desert, it separates the conditioned space from the outside world which is heated by radiant heat. All the stucco houses don't deal with radiant heat, they actually capture heat and re-radiate it into the conditioned space long after the sun is down.
I am buying a 40 year old house built with CMU. I am planning to add exterior insulation and then horizontal drop siding. There is not much information out there about this. Is it possible to speak with you about this?
Hey Matt it is almost mandatory here in Ontario to do it maybe a costly but it works out cheaper in the end and to be honest most of our jobs we being doing it
Matt, you should check out the construction best practices in Toronto, continuous exterior insulation is now required there by code.
I think a part 2 on that video should be done because I'm like with a lot of people was I looking in the interior of the house or the exterior of the house? Also I'd like to see how that was done to be honest with you so if you could do like a test thing that would be awesome.
I am a diy guy and looking to build most of my house by myself and learning all I can before I build. Looking for all videos on rockwool and how to frame the walls or attach exterior insulation.
At 2:32 there's a mention of backing out caps / screws and just holding the mineral wool in place with the battens. I'd like saving those expensive screws, but don't they leave hundreds of small holes in the air control layer when they are backed out?
Love this video.
Love mineral wool. I just wish it was cheaper and more rigid. I want to add it to the outside of my OSB before I put on the Tyvek and siding but not sure how to do it. I'm getting flack from my architect.
I've used it before in my music recording room and wow I liked the effect.
Finally a detail that keeps bulk water off the battens. Spiders love the open siding detail so hopefully the toxic bug spray won’t melt the housewrap. 😂
You need to come to southern Indiana & see my home I'm building . It's a timber frame with sips . I've done everything but concrete & hvac
Ok, what is for dinner!....lol...
Thank you so much for your help
it should be noted that the screws attaching the furring would not reach the studs regardless of where they were placed. a 6" screw is just long enough to allow the tip of the screw to reach the interior edge of the sheathing. thus, you get no thermal bridging into the wall cavity via the screws. that probably explains why the builder used ripped 1.125" Advantech sheathing for furring instead of using conventional 1x furring strips.
please u need to teach us how to build a wall like that...start to finish...specially for those who are diy dare devils...
DIY Dare Devil: I'm so gonna run with that!
check other risinger videos. he has done exterior insulation videos.
Awesome tips Matt
Would a vertical Cor-A-Vent or Keen fur strip and then horizontal furring strips achieve the same results? I'm wondering if the Cor-A-Vent or Keen may be more cost effective?
I LOVE ROCKWOOL
This is very useful detail.
Just moved to fire country here in CA (traded earthquake for fire). I'm thinking that rockwool stuff
might make good mulch up here... conventional forms of mulch are discouraged here, 'cause they catch on fire... esp. in the first 5' from the building...
Very interesting idea! We need all the fireproofing materials and techniques we can get! Traditional mulch is just more fuel. Perhaps rockwool could be used with a gravel cover.
Kind of like a strawbale wrap-but less effective.
Those are upwards of R-45.
You want to 'control moisture in that space'? use an earth plaster. It works to automatically regulate humidity.
Very interesting complex build methods for the top 10%.
But it’s very simple....
And affordable....
And saves cost on energy bills....
I live in northern Minnesota and looking to insulate overly well. Last year we hit -52 degrees, yes, -52, therefore looking to keep as much heat in as possible, and not to have to redo in at least 20-30 years. Interested in your thoughts and a possible video in the future. Thanks for the information.
New construction or retrofit? Big difference. Regardless, check out Joe Lstiburek’s “Beyond Passive” talk for some extreme cold climate lessons. As my own two cents I would just add that those new to “high performance” tend to jump right into thinking about R-values because it’s got a number on it when really airtightness and keeping the innermost airtight layer at or close enough to interior design temperature and avoiding accumulating and trapping moisture inside the wall and roof systems is the bigger challenge. Anyone can spec R-80 walls as an exercise in spending money, less people can get such walls to stay bone dry and never develop moisture related issues.
Matt good morning can you do something on remodel for bathroom installations for the showers and all of that what type of insulation behind the shower walls if any
Roxul is a good choice in my opinion. Considering:1. its hydrophobic (does not absorb water) but is moisture permeable. If I recall correctly mold cannot grow on Roxul2. Easy to install (DIY) & easy to remove if you need to do any future repairs (unlike spray foam, or cellious). 3. Fire proof & sound absorption.4. You can buy it at your local Lowes (usually)
Super Nice! -- QUESTION -- To my mind, Rockwool, which I love, is more like a wool sweater on a cold day - it only works if you have a windproof gortex type jacket on top of it. Regardless of the stated R value of a "sweater" the wind blows through it easily, unless you have a windbreaker on it. So why does the cold air not flow right through Rockwool?
We spent a year building ultra straight walls, marble, gold, then it burned to the ground. Should have installed sprinklers and trimmed the brush back 100 feet.
Some people have "social" priorities.
Is the siding a matter of National Security?
homeowner prerogative
That’s what I was thinking
Mmmmmm, perogies......yum!
Probably don’t want ppl recognizing their house based off of the siding.
Thanks, is something that could go over a older masonry home? Just watching the video seems like a logical fix for old block homes in Arizona with no insulation in the walls. Everybody's been trying to do the spray foam injections in the wall cavities but not for nothing you're only injecting three and a half inch cavity not the whole wall. Your thoughts?
Yes. It is the product of choice in Europe to outsulate solid masonry buildings.
Fascinating.
Rockwool absorbs water. It is used in hydroponic farms.
Not Roxul. You can submerge it, but it does not hold water. Its very hydrophobic.
Guy Tech Oh I see. Different.
It does not absorb water. It is in fact the opposite of hydrophobic. Rockwool insulation does not wick water, which means that any bulk water that contacts the outer surface will drain and not be absorbed into the body of the insulation. @@SteelBuckeye
8,000 SQ/Ft new construction in TX? smells of California.
No joke ^. I live in NJ and have a place in Austin. They are streaming in from California and the Northeast. When I moved to Austin 5 years ago my Uhaul truck was $2700 from NJ>TX when we had to come back a year later that same truck was $700 from TX to NJ (I probably could have gotten it for free haha) . There's all sorts of construction going on in Austin from cranes downtown to 8000 sq foot customs in the burbs to massive subdivisions. Lots of $$$ pouring in and unfavorable politics too if you ask the old timers.....
NJ's politics are no different then CA's 😂😂😂
See how it was raining and not on fire, that's how you know it's not California.
Be careful. That smells of jealousy. I applaud the guy for living his American dream and attaining his/her life goals.
I wish I could get a sneak peak at that siding. Is it similar to the wood on the house that you toured that Steve Basic was the architect on (obviously vertical though)?
Run 'em out! ;)
"Vote democrat & expect your new house to burn, baby burn!"
I imagine that's what he was expecting so decided to use rockwool, now if he's still got asphalt shingles... ;)
Rain screens (cladding) are a great idea but they have an unexpected danger - fire. If made of flammable materials, especially when vented at top and bottom, they form an excellent chimney for flames to quickly rise. That contributed to the horrid apartment fires in London in the last few years. Same problem as the old balloon framing technique that we’ve abandoned. The rockwool is fine but the rest is fuel. Definitely a ‘killer assembly’, unfortunately.
Rockwool is very fire resistant if the entire house was wrapped in it the attic would have at least two layers as well and the roof would be covered in it too. You could mitigate the flammablity of the bracing by using certain types pressure treated lumber (more expensive, and need compatible fasteners) and it would become fire proof. The London fire the rain screen was made of extremely flammable non-approved foam bonded to flammble metal siding that melted off. The building was also >15 stories vs a typical house that is just 2 stories and the top does not terminate into the air like the apartment building did but terminates under the soffet so the chimmney effect would be minimal.
In commercial rain screen assemblies they use steel and rockwool these are completely immune to fire and are a very safe and killer efficient assembly. The london rain screen was not approved for the apartments even before the ban.
rockwool is gr8
@Matt - thanks for the video. What kind of moisture/vapour barrier is between the rockwool and the 3/4 sheathing? Are they using Delta Vent SA or something else?
I never noticed they used Cut pieces of Advantech Sheathing as the Furring Strips :)
Many innovative construction techniques are out there.
How advanced & how innovative is just a matter of $$$.
The stone wool costs significantly more than most people can afford.
Sad, but true.
Where are you sourcing those cap screws? Are they those 6" screws you used in that other video about stucco you put up a while ago? Thanks...
Excellent. Very interest. The horizontal nailers should add huge strength. I agree with the idea of exterior insulation and have used it. My concern is the longevity of mineral wool. I love the fire resistance and R value and sound peoofing. The fibers are brittle, abrasive and very irritating. Brittle means that over time they can breakdown. Can you 0lesde address that?
What is the pint of the bug screens top & bottom if there are gaps between the sidings? wouldn't spiders and waps go back there?
personally I like the outside of a house to be thick wood or stone or bricks, just for the idea of being a house and not a lot of artificial stuff of wool and carboard i don't no how stitched to a house somewhere below. Would you buy a house you can't see the actual wall of?
Put metal Z bar in exterior to dont loose time with the alignement
How does the inner part of the siding dry since it’s put on the black UV screen? Is there any gap between the siding and the UV screen? If so, how is it realized? Otherwise this part will accumulate humidity over time.
We do this in Portland in light commercial.
Hundreds of 6" metal fastening screws will provide a thermal path directly through all that insulation, and give a cold surface for vapor to condense. Any solutions to this?
I wonder what the bill was for all that Rockwool? How long will it take to make that up on energy savings? I love it, but dang.
Phil Perri proof? You just make a statement and nothing to back it?
Wow, I will look into it. I wonder if Matt knows anything about it. I’m sure he doesn’t read all these posts anyway.
rockwool is made with slag, which is a waste product already
it's production is not damaging no more than any other production process; the manufacturer tries to get away with what they can. like all heavy producers, they make a mess, but there is nothing inherently toxic about it.
@@josephmiller9141 It ends up having actually nothing to do with Rockwool production. It's simply a small group in a small rural aggro town shouting, not in my back yard. Meanwhile, they aren't even considering that this plant would help fight climate change. Which will have a far more damaging effect on their town.
@Phil Perri oh horseshit. Firstly...they are a EUR 2.2 billion company and only do 20% of their business in the states. And when you're a billion dollar company you get sued for anything by asshats looking for a quick payday. Secondly, I highly doubt the environmental standards in the US are higher than in the EU.
I've specced and used rockwool for almost a decade and never had issues or complaints. So I doubt a 110 year d company is gonna slit it's own throat by over polluting.
Will any insulation be placed between studs?
Or will the house only be insulated with 3-inch Rockwool?
How thick would an R 38 wall need to be? And would
A product like spray in bed truck liner be helpful. Or fiberglass sheeting that is "Bondoed" in place. All electric and water be commercial grade.
So what’s the difference in using rock-wool 3in and 3 1/2? Don’t both do the same thing?
If horizontal strapping has already been done (by mistake) Does it need to be removed so the air flow channel is on the rockwool side? In other words changing the layers we see so that the vertical strapping is on the outside and the horizontal is against the rockwool. The cladding is barnwood mounted vertically.
What is the R value of the 3" Rockwool?
R12
@@pro272727 Thx
Is that enough? Or does that add to the insulation in the "ribs" I am thinking you'll need 3 times that or 9" to get in the 30's for someone building in the north.
@@JohnSmith-se8pf I live in Ohio and 12 is what is in most walls that I have seen, unless the wall is built with 2x6. Now your attic space you want more, because heat rises, R36 or higher. Watch "Building Science Insights -- To Vent or Not to Vent", it's a great video on insulating and venting.
Where is that link to the perfect wall article by Joe?
@MattRisinger , What was the air barrier in this example? Peel & Stick between Rockwool and sheathing, or closed cell behind sheathing?
Probably peel and stick. Or possibly a drain wrap with a low permeability. You'd want that to protect the sheathing for a really long time. My guess is the inside isn't foam.
Won't this act similar a concrete wall? Soaking up day time sun and releasing it into the house at night? Or is there an air gap between the cladding and the rockwool?
100 deg crazy! Boilin hot! How do you survive?
Hkk Hgffh Fahrenheit not Celsius
Can you compare this system to hempcrete please? Cost and durability.
Can you do a clip on Windows with siding on top of this rock wool
Is it possible to do mgo board then rockwool and then hardyboard
What keeps the bugs out at the bottom and top of the system? Hoping for a video on the prep work for the entire wall.
Bug screen likely stapled at the bottom
I'm getting ready to build a home and someone please answer me... What is the difference between this and what used to be called asbestos? Aren't they both mineral wools?
Can cork be used as exterior insulation and how does it compare to rockwool?
Is there any reason not to use a rainscreen exterior in the rainforests of Oregon? I don't see it in use and it seems like a no-brainer unless the high humidity would prevent drying out.
need to see whole gamut...
What would have to change in order to have that thick of insulation and Hardie Board?
I am happy that americans start to care about house insulation. The goal is a house which does not require any heating at all.
We worry about AC in much of the. country. Insulation never going to get rid of the need for AC.
348 does bug screen encapsulate roxul?
Do you still put more insulation on the inside?
Hey Matt, Is it possible to “outsulate” with such a product and use a fluid-applied weather barrier?
Uh.... that's what's going on in *this* video. The WRB would almost certainly be applied to the sheeting which is *under* the rockwell. And, just to be clear, we are looking at the outside of the wall in this video.
Stephen Speicher actually it’s not. There’s a wrap product on that piece of the structure and that’s all he’s allowed to show. The wrap isn’t the issue; some fluid-applied barriers don’t like to be in contact with other certain products. But I did get my answer from Prosoco though.
Marcus Fant
The black wrap is an aesthetic detail not for wrb. The cladding will have gaps and they wanted to show black between the cladding and not the furring and rockwool.
I don't know if I buy the below 80 on a 100 degree day with the AC unit outside on a trailer.
Matt, what are the costs of this kind of install vs a typical installation of spray foam?
FWIW: My guess is that the home will have interior insulation. The 3" roxul is only about R-12. FWIW: I believe the costs for roxul is about 2 to 4 times more expensive than rigid foam for exterior insulation.
not clear to me, am i looking at an out side wall? where is the framing or is this post&beam, i just don't know !
I did rockwool in my walls and ceiling. Stuff is the worst to deal with. It makes for a miserable day as little bits fall all over you. It is much harder to deal with than standard fiberglass, especially overhead. The stuff gets in your eyes, down your back, on your arms, in your ears. They should really package with some vapor barrier wrapper just for handling.
Good to know. I will try to remember to be prepared for that if I ever use it.
I have used rockwool a couple of times and that was not my experience. While it can still make you itch it is nothing compared to fiberglass. It is also sooo much easier to work with.
Not my experience. Way better than Fiberglass batts, and you could have used a hooded Tyvex suit & safety glass or full face shield during the install.
I used sound and safe in a remodel ceiling I kinda liked doing it.( I assume it is the same basic thing just in fluffy sheets) Little dirty but way better than fiberglass.
Interesting. That’s not been my experience
what's with the osb furring strips though? it's not a good idea to use those in areas that can get wet right? you said there will be small cracks where a few drops of water may get through. with normal wood as long as it can breathe its ok. but with osb that stuff will denigrate back there and noone will know until the vertical siding starts to fall off. probably could have used pieces of the vertical siding as furring strips to attach to maybe.
the furring strips will be behind the polyolefin UV stable sheet; with the PO seams likely managed behind the siding panels. I have hard time imagining a scenario where the OSB will actually get wet, provided that they don't experience massive flooding.
Matt mentioned in the video that it's not just OSB, it's ripped down AdvanTech decking. Should have better moisture resistance.
@@asday85 ohhhh ok thanks
@@Lilmiket1000 No problem. Also, I think you're right on the money W/R/T "AdvanTech Decking" being a type of OSB, I think Nick is just eating marketing material with his Wheaties.
Also remember there is drying capacity in that wall with the battens and bug screen. And Advantec holds something like a 200 day no-sand guarantee when it is subfloor (ie puddled water). So it shouldn't be an issue in that wall assembly.
Why would you install exterior siding that has gaps that are large enough for the SUN to shine through? Isn't the point to stop water? And if the sun can get through the gaps in your protection, so can water.