18th Kieth.......yeah 😆 working lates. I can understand the rust coming through from the back on the door bit on the bonnet is strange. As for paint match, could you not take part of the skin in to somewhere like Jawel paints for them to match up. Don't know if there is one by you. Maybe do it by post. Check the website out. Boot boards look nice, they finish the boot off.
Sorry to hear about the rust, it certainly wouldn't have happened if those seams had been sealed properly and thinned waxoil applied after first heating the panels. My car, a much older one, that's often used in the rain lives in a relatively damp garage, it gets condensation puddles on the floor and after 13 years there's no sign whatsoever of any rust bubbles. I did strip all of the paint back to bare metal though. If you wanted absolute perfection then you should have reskined that door and not tried a short cut. However the car looks fantastic and is a credit to you.
great looking bootkit, and I will be ordering for my car once it's painted. one small thing I may ask for/surgest is that the double handle is changed to a single horizontal one. I think it would be a much neater solution. Great vid Keith!
Oh man I’m gutted for you, I remember watching the videos of you putting so much work into it. On the bright side those boot inserts really finish it off nicely.
Hi Kieth I’m liking the boot lid covers I’ll contact Pete and see if he’ll do me a set. I’m still trying to resolve my gear box issue, but it’s looking more like I need to pull the engine back out and have the gearbox refurbished. Just need to find someone up here prepared to do it for me. Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
If there’s a little rust on sprout there’s no hope for any of us ! On paper your Cooper sport is the best but there’s something about sprout I prefer 👍
That is a real pity about the blisters on the drivers door. Shame it was not the passengers door that was affected, as I have a OEM door in my garage. It was removed from a brand new car many many years ago because it had a bumper creese in the door skin. It still had the factory wax applied to the outside until last year. There can not be many of them still kicking around now !.
It’s a shame about the rust! I have found using any of the milky type rust converter it is rusting trough primer but under the primer where it isn’t applied it is perfect and I’ve done everything right. I use phosphoric acid and I have left it bare for a year on rusted and non rusted metal and no rust at all. From my tests it even rusted though paint and speed up the process that after being blasted too!!!
Such a shame about the door and bonnet. Bring it down here when I'm spraying the S and i'll spray them. By heating your garage and then letting it get cold overnight will cause moisture/condensation to form on the panels. It's one thing insulating the space but you need to keep it above a certain temp to stop condensation forming. Dehumidifiers help with moisture, but not condensation where warm and cold air meet. My anal ness with rust is the fact that there are so many panel joins on minis and it's likely that rust has already formed between these joins. An example of this is as you showed on the door. Probably a similar scenario where the internal frame/supports of the bonnet, although not welded they do have contact with the bonnet and so will bleed onto the rear of the bonnet. Bonnet has to go in my opinion. 😕
18th Kieth.......yeah 😆 working lates. I can understand the rust coming through from the back on the door bit on the bonnet is strange. As for paint match, could you not take part of the skin in to somewhere like Jawel paints for them to match up. Don't know if there is one by you. Maybe do it by post. Check the website out. Boot boards look nice, they finish the boot off.
Looks amazing! Great job!
Hiya Keith-after exploring the options available I have come to the same conclusion as you. Full new shell and respray! Keep well mate! L.O.L
LOL :) Cheers Dave
Gutted for you. Still I know what I'll be watching come the winter. 😉👍
You would have thought lots of Waxoyl in the bottom of the door would have prevented that. What a bummer!
18th Kieth.......yeah 😆 working lates. I can understand the rust coming through from the back on the door bit on the bonnet is strange. As for paint match, could you not take part of the skin in to somewhere like Jawel paints for them to match up. Don't know if there is one by you. Maybe do it by post. Check the website out. Boot boards look nice, they finish the boot off.
Sorry to hear about the rust, it certainly wouldn't have happened if those seams had been sealed properly and thinned waxoil applied after first heating the panels. My car, a much older one, that's often used in the rain lives in a relatively damp garage, it gets condensation puddles on the floor and after 13 years there's no sign whatsoever of any rust bubbles. I did strip all of the paint back to bare metal though. If you wanted absolute perfection then you should have reskined that door and not tried a short cut.
However the car looks fantastic and is a credit to you.
great looking bootkit, and I will be ordering for my car once it's painted. one small thing I may ask for/surgest is that the double handle is changed to a single horizontal one. I think it would be a much neater solution. Great vid Keith!
I will do the horizontal handles as an option. Thanks for the suggestion. Pete... Stitched Up Interiors.
@@peteparker3420 That's great to hear Pete!
Could always buy a bonnet and paint that and see what its like. You should be OK as long as you use the same paint supplier and code.
ordered 👍
Have you tried ACF50 in the door? its very thin and should go anywhere water can.
Thanks. It's too late for that now, but I have used ACF50 before and it's very good
Oh man I’m gutted for you, I remember watching the videos of you putting so much work into it.
On the bright side those boot inserts really finish it off nicely.
Hi Kieth I’m liking the boot lid covers I’ll contact Pete and see if he’ll do me a set. I’m still trying to resolve my gear box issue, but it’s looking more like I need to pull the engine back out and have the gearbox refurbished.
Just need to find someone up here prepared to do it for me.
Take Care Stay Safe Everyone Regards Dave 👍😎🏴
Nice on Keith!
If there’s a little rust on sprout there’s no hope for any of us ! On paper your Cooper sport is the best but there’s something about sprout I prefer 👍
such a shame because I watch the effort you put into Sprout and you did not cut corners st save money good luck on the updates later in the year
That is a real pity about the blisters on the drivers door.
Shame it was not the passengers door that was affected, as I have a OEM door in my garage.
It was removed from a brand new car many many years ago because it had a bumper creese in the door skin.
It still had the factory wax applied to the outside until last year.
There can not be many of them still kicking around now !.
Shame about the rust 😪😪. I have a question about your compressor, what ltr take is it? Thanks 😊
Its 50 liter, and is a bit small to be honest. I could do with a larger one
You've done a lot with it. I was looking at 50ltr, might get the 100 ltr now. Thanks for the heads up 👍🏻
I worry about this all the time while I am doing my bare metal shell restoration. As you say it is all part of owning a mini unfortunately!
It’s a shame about the rust! I have found using any of the milky type rust converter it is rusting trough primer but under the primer where it isn’t applied it is perfect and I’ve done everything right. I use phosphoric acid and I have left it bare for a year on rusted and non rusted metal and no rust at all. From my tests it even rusted though paint and speed up the process that after being blasted too!!!
👍
Such a shame about the door and bonnet. Bring it down here when I'm spraying the S and i'll spray them. By heating your garage and then letting it get cold overnight will cause moisture/condensation to form on the panels. It's one thing insulating the space but you need to keep it above a certain temp to stop condensation forming. Dehumidifiers help with moisture, but not condensation where warm and cold air meet.
My anal ness with rust is the fact that there are so many panel joins on minis and it's likely that rust has already formed between these joins. An example of this is as you showed on the door. Probably a similar scenario where the internal frame/supports of the bonnet, although not welded they do have contact with the bonnet and so will bleed onto the rear of the bonnet. Bonnet has to go in my opinion. 😕
It's a bit of a lesson learnt for me mate. I didn't really think about it rusting from the inside out. Gives me something to do over winter :)
18th Kieth.......yeah 😆 working lates. I can understand the rust coming through from the back on the door bit on the bonnet is strange. As for paint match, could you not take part of the skin in to somewhere like Jawel paints for them to match up. Don't know if there is one by you. Maybe do it by post. Check the website out. Boot boards look nice, they finish the boot off.