Excellent tutorial Josh. Fusion 360 is a really powerful program, and I'm only just scratching the surface. Also, glad to see you wasting precious time on video production.
ThatsMyRc Fusion 360 is very powerful. It has a pretty steep learning curve, but there are tons of tutorials online including here on TH-cam. Fusion 360 was free for hobbyists. I believe that's still the case.
Thank you, this is excellent! I was wondering if you can do a tutorial on trimming and sanding the edges too (without damaging the printed and stamped shape)?
Very cool! I build full size race chassis, mostly NHRA stuff n use bead rollers, slip rollers, n most everything in between on n almost daily basis. This gets my wheels turning about using this on 1:1 scale. At least for smaller panels. As for my rc addiction, there's almost limitless possibilities. Another great tutorial. Thanks Josh.
I did the same thing for my kids bikes. but I cut open pop cans and use the aluminum from them super thin works really well next time I will glue maybe 2 pieces together.
I as well like and enjoy the look and design of stamping. Thanks, I've been thinking about this process for years, just haven't applied it yet. I considered building a miniature panel press like that of a large car body press. Much to consider in the die and jig design.
I’d like to see if it’s possible to make embossed letters in thicker steel with this technique. I’m building a Willy’s Jeep but I will be changing the stamped “WILLYS” logos to whatever I name it afterwards. Hit me up if you want to give it a try!
As a retired Ironworker this looks like Tin Smiths work. In the 1950's 5 and 10 cent stores where full of Tin Plate Toys from Japan. Then plastic happened. 20 gauge or less steel is easily formed but it is just as easily damaged unfortunately. This may or may not be a good thing I suppose. The forms can be made from hard wood or steel but do wear with continued use. Tool and Die Making is VERY highly skilled work and time consuming. It looks like the 3d printing might be VERY useful for SOMEthings particularly one off parts.
I am looking at a simple (2in x 8 in) death date plate to screw onto a cast VA monument marker. I am looking at using 20 gauge dead soft copper. This process looks promising if I can figure out how to do the letters and numbers.
Definitely an option. I have been beadblasting the aluminum afterwards however and it gives me a nice even finish. So I skip the added time on the printing. A much more dialed print would definitely benefit people though, ironing is such a cool option that’s been implemented. Have to love this side of the hobby!
Hey Josh, have you ever tried using a Throatless Shear? It offers a much more precise cut, does not distort the edge of the metal the way that hand shears do, especially in aluminium, n is capable of very fine detail work. Takes up a little space on the bench but is invaluable for installing aluminum interiors, as well as RC parts n pieces.
I used to have one in the shop but when I lived from Missouri to California it didn’t make the trip. I’d love to pick up another one. They do cut so much better!
yes. Firewall moldings would be nice to add under the hood of for example the rc4wd bazer. You could do a video on that and show the results, maybe provide the file. Thanks for making RC more interesting.
i have seen someone using a 1/2 thick piece of rubber on one side instead of a 2 part mold. The rubber was backed with steel and the whole thing put in a press. It produce very clean, even flat panels in one shot. Might be worth trying.
@@HarleyDesignsInc the one i was thinking of was using a 3d printed mold. But they were thick, with a honeycomb fill pattern. Then the person filled them with epoxy to create a solid mold.
Excellent tutorial! I’m a solidworks user at work but have fusion 360 at home for my 3D printed designs. I just need to get off my arse and get my printer up and going. Thank you for the motivation.
impressive. love to see how it works with a vice or press. hitting it with a hammer a thousand times sounds like work! how deep can you go with the emboss?
I would have just made the bottom part, made a solid block on top, lower it until they intersect and used "Combine bodies > Cut" to cut the exact shape of the bottom on the top block, then used Push-Pull on the new top surfaces to add the 1mm of clearance. Would reduce the work by 50%.
It needs to be offset outwards from the shapes. A push/pull cut wouldn’t do that if I recall. I use Solidworks personally but used the free program for easier demonstration. The method of CAD really isn’t the important part either, just the things that are looked for in the design.
@@HarleyDesignsInc I do that all the time, i make a screw then combine>cut to get the threads in the hole and push-pull the inner threads for clearance. Works fine. But yeah nice tutorial nonetheless !
3D printer - check, Fusion 360 - check. Now if I can just transfer my Solidworks skills and mad design ideas to this my kid and I will have some awesome looking Wraiths. :D
Josh I love the video! such a great concept. You have given me a good ideal for car project that I am working on, 1967 Austin Healey Sprite. I am putting switch on the dash, head light, fog lights ect... But I want to label the switch. I am thinking tying your concept and make some switch plate I am hoping the letter will show up on the stamp. what do you think?
18 gauge is pretty thick, I’d have major concerns depending on how much depth or definition was desired. Beefing up the 3D print would be my first step, heavy perimeters and a high infill.
@@HarleyDesignsInc Thanks so much. It's a shallow stamp, but needed a little heft to the structure. I may build up my forms using found materials rather than doing the 3-d printing. I really appreciate your channel.
This is dope. I've been trying to think up a way to press body panels for a MAZ truck i want to build. How weldable is that sheet aluminum for joining panels (probably in some other videos but I just found this)?
Thank you for this great video! I have a couple of questions. How deep can you make this kind of stamping? I suppose, it works good for a "box shaped" car (no offense), but will it be possible to do something like a fender for a model A Ford? Or do you think that it will require to make it in several attempts with annealing in the process?
I think you’ll be able to pull off some pretty decent shapes like that but you need to really watch the shrink points so that the metal doesn’t need to bunch up.
I’m only printing with 15% infill and I haven’t seen the mold fail after a few uses. But I have never thought about using it for a “production” type run of parts. It would be an interesting experiment.
THIS IS AWESOME! LOVE THIS VIDEO! THANK YOU! Now I really need to get a 3D printer! Are you still using the same printer? Any more you come up with please pass it along!
This process looks to have the potential to make an aluminum scale body the pieces together much like a abs plastic body... Would be cool to see something like that created.
Instead of re-sketching on top you could subtract the original from a solid block with the same outer dimensions. That way you are 100% positive that it’s a negative.
I don't have a 3D Printer... EVERYONE knows my story by now. 😖 I do wonder, by the time I can afford one, will they be extremely user friendly, or so difficult that I'll have to take a course just to turn it on?? 😳 This was extremely useful Josh! Really, thank you! Carmine ✈🚂🚙
it would be easier to make the second half if you just created a block and used the first half to subtract the shape from it using the combine tool. (making sure keep tools is checked) then you can select the faces of the top half and right click "press pull" it in a negative direction for the thickness of your steel sheet so your not forcing it into a zero tolerance form. that would save you like 10+ minutes. i been using CAD software for 10 years (you probably dont care) and find a lot of time saving tricks.
Hey, might be a bit late to the party, but do you think it's possible to use this method to create the outer shell of a computer mouse? (say 45mm between the highest and lowest point of the stamped part, and failty organic shapes) I've been thinking about designing my own mouse and have been looking into different ways of forming metals as it would be a interessting material to use :) Also great video! really straight forward and not a lot of fuss :)
a lot of steps seems unnecessary you can make everything from one sketch and just offset faces to get space for the metal. and this way changes have less chance to break everything. and you don't need to have the top as far as it's you can make each of them as component and fusion will make one transparent when you work on the other.
What gauge aluminum do you use for these panels I'm working on a project and I'd like something that is pliable enough to dent as it's used. Can't seem to find anything that's not a 300 foot roll. Thanks in advance, Me
You know what´s cool ? Same method can be used to wood (thin sheets of veneer layered and glued in between) and "vulkanfiber" (which looks like lether). If someone has tried that out please let me know.
Wow! My hero for doing this tutorial. You took a lot of the "scariness" out of doing 3D printed molds.
Excellent tutorial Josh. Fusion 360 is a really powerful program, and I'm only just scratching the surface. Also, glad to see you wasting precious time on video production.
Hahahaha BURN!!!!
A serious comment? No way. Why would you not waste our time?
@@xxxxxx-rm2pn Tiny trucks are nothing to joke about.
I was looking into that Fusion program so its a great program? Not free yet its a free trial?
ThatsMyRc Fusion 360 is very powerful. It has a pretty steep learning curve, but there are tons of tutorials online including here on TH-cam. Fusion 360 was free for hobbyists. I believe that's still the case.
Thank you, this is excellent! I was wondering if you can do a tutorial on trimming and sanding the edges too (without damaging the printed and stamped shape)?
TH-cam really needs a super like button.
Very cool! I build full size race chassis, mostly NHRA stuff n use bead rollers, slip rollers, n most everything in between on n almost daily basis. This gets my wheels turning about using this on 1:1 scale. At least for smaller panels. As for my rc addiction, there's almost limitless possibilities.
Another great tutorial.
Thanks Josh.
Love seeing this type of content in your videos Josh. Keep up the great work.
This is pretty cool. Would be epic to do a whole metal body stamp it out like they did in the old days lol
I was thinking that too.
I did the same thing for my kids bikes. but I cut open pop cans and use the aluminum from them super thin works really well next time I will glue maybe 2 pieces together.
I wonder if you use cut bricks instead of plastic u can get it even deeper and thicker. crazy idea.
I as well like and enjoy the look and design of stamping. Thanks, I've been thinking about this process for years, just haven't applied it yet. I considered building a miniature panel press like that of a large car body press. Much to consider in the die and jig design.
Wow! You just blew my mind! Thanks for the video! Awesome! I’m so inspired now…
I’d like to see if it’s possible to make embossed letters in thicker steel with this technique. I’m building a Willy’s Jeep but I will be changing the stamped “WILLYS” logos to whatever I name it afterwards. Hit me up if you want to give it a try!
As a retired Ironworker this looks like Tin Smiths work. In the 1950's 5 and 10 cent stores where full of
Tin Plate Toys from Japan. Then plastic happened. 20 gauge or less steel is easily formed but it is just as easily damaged unfortunately. This may or may not be a good thing I suppose. The forms can be made from hard wood or steel but do wear with continued use. Tool and Die Making is VERY highly skilled work and time consuming.
It looks like the 3d printing might be VERY useful for SOMEthings particularly one off parts.
Totally cool idea. Now, if only I had a 3D printer.
Well I need a 3D printer now this opens up so many ideas for the scale world. Thank you for sharing.
I am looking at a simple (2in x 8 in) death date plate to screw onto a cast VA monument marker. I am looking at using 20 gauge dead soft copper. This process looks promising if I can figure out how to do the letters and numbers.
You could also turn on ironing witch smooths the surfaces of your print to get rid of the lines in the print.
Definitely an option. I have been beadblasting the aluminum afterwards however and it gives me a nice even finish. So I skip the added time on the printing. A much more dialed print would definitely benefit people though, ironing is such a cool option that’s been implemented. Have to love this side of the hobby!
This is something I've been thinking of I'm glad you're doing video on it 👍🏼
So this means Vanquish will be making metal body trucks soon, right?
Love your channel bro
What a cool process.
Great video, I'm going to try this method with copper
Great bid, would like to see how u go about measuring and designing those for a particular body n chassis
Great stuff bro. Commenting so the algorithm likes you also
so you can make license plates :)
Wow Josh, this is really cool. The work is worth it,
Hey Josh, have you ever tried using a Throatless Shear? It offers a much more precise cut, does not distort the edge of the metal the way that hand shears do, especially in aluminium, n is capable of very fine detail work. Takes up a little space on the bench but is invaluable for installing aluminum interiors, as well as RC parts n pieces.
I used to have one in the shop but when I lived from Missouri to California it didn’t make the trip. I’d love to pick up another one. They do cut so much better!
Josh, can you put a link to the metal you're using? McMaster has about 20,000 options to choose from. Thanks!
I’ll be sitting by the mailbox waiting for my 3D printed molds to arrive so I can get started. 😁
yes. Firewall moldings would be nice to add under the hood of for example the rc4wd bazer. You could do a video on that and show the results, maybe provide the file. Thanks for making RC more interesting.
Such a cool idea applied to scale. Great job.
i have seen someone using a 1/2 thick piece of rubber on one side instead of a 2 part mold. The rubber was backed with steel and the whole thing put in a press. It produce very clean, even flat panels in one shot. Might be worth trying.
I’ve seen that for forming over a metal or much harder buck. With 3D printing and lower infill percentages, I don’t think the buck would survive.
@@HarleyDesignsInc the one i was thinking of was using a 3d printed mold. But they were thick, with a honeycomb fill pattern. Then the person filled them with epoxy to create a solid mold.
Excellent tutorial! I’m a solidworks user at work but have fusion 360 at home for my 3D printed designs. I just need to get off my arse and get my printer up and going. Thank you for the motivation.
I like what you did here! You integrated Fusion into another skill set. Its not quite STL Sunday but color me satisfied none the less. 🤙🏼
Great video thank you for sharing !
Oh bugger. I like this. That means a redesign on the last bit of the project I’m just finishing. Text. I hope it works.
This is awesome, gained one more subscriber!
impressive. love to see how it works with a vice or press. hitting it with a hammer a thousand times sounds like work! how deep can you go with the emboss?
Really cool way to make great detail parts for your rig.
Great video Josh!
Excellent idea, but will it work for 24 or 26 gauge copper.
I’ve never worked with copper like that. I’d like to try that myself. Maybe heating it and getting it softened up would help.
I would have just made the bottom part, made a solid block on top, lower it until they intersect and used "Combine bodies > Cut" to cut the exact shape of the bottom on the top block, then used Push-Pull on the new top surfaces to add the 1mm of clearance. Would reduce the work by 50%.
It needs to be offset outwards from the shapes. A push/pull cut wouldn’t do that if I recall. I use Solidworks personally but used the free program for easier demonstration. The method of CAD really isn’t the important part either, just the things that are looked for in the design.
@@HarleyDesignsInc I do that all the time, i make a screw then combine>cut to get the threads in the hole and push-pull the inner threads for clearance. Works fine. But yeah nice tutorial nonetheless !
3D printer - check, Fusion 360 - check. Now if I can just transfer my Solidworks skills and mad design ideas to this my kid and I will have some awesome looking Wraiths. :D
Arrrgh! Just when I think I've come up with a new idea! 🤣🤣 Awesome channel BTW (I've just come across it, well, last week i believe)
Super interesting. I am definitely going to learn about fusion 360 and have wanted to purchase a 3d printer for a few months. Thanks for the demo.
SUUUUPER Interesting! Got the gears turning upstairs!(They are a bit squeaky to be honest...🤣🤣🤣🤷🏻♂️)!
Josh I love the video! such a great concept. You have given me a good ideal for car project that I am working on, 1967 Austin Healey Sprite. I am putting switch on the dash, head light, fog lights ect... But I want to label the switch. I am thinking tying your concept and make some switch plate I am hoping the letter will show up on the stamp. what do you think?
Can you use the hammering on 18 ga steel or will I need to use a press? Thanks for the great video.
18 gauge is pretty thick, I’d have major concerns depending on how much depth or definition was desired. Beefing up the 3D print would be my first step, heavy perimeters and a high infill.
@@HarleyDesignsInc Thanks so much. It's a shallow stamp, but needed a little heft to the structure. I may build up my forms using found materials rather than doing the 3-d printing. I really appreciate your channel.
This is dope. I've been trying to think up a way to press body panels for a MAZ truck i want to build. How weldable is that sheet aluminum for joining panels (probably in some other videos but I just found this)?
Thank you for this great video! I have a couple of questions. How deep can you make this kind of stamping? I suppose, it works good for a "box shaped" car (no offense), but will it be possible to do something like a fender for a model A Ford? Or do you think that it will require to make it in several attempts with annealing in the process?
I think you’ll be able to pull off some pretty decent shapes like that but you need to really watch the shrink points so that the metal doesn’t need to bunch up.
Very nice! How many parts could you make with one mold? I would imagine you would lose some definition in subsequent stampings?
I’m only printing with 15% infill and I haven’t seen the mold fail after a few uses. But I have never thought about using it for a “production” type run of parts. It would be an interesting experiment.
Harley Designs do you apply a heat treat to the part after fitting to gain some toughness?
THIS IS AWESOME! LOVE THIS VIDEO! THANK YOU! Now I really need to get a 3D printer!
Are you still using the same printer?
Any more you come up with please pass it along!
This process looks to have the potential to make an aluminum scale body the pieces together much like a abs plastic body... Would be cool to see something like that created.
Instead of re-sketching on top you could subtract the original from a solid block with the same outer dimensions. That way you are 100% positive that it’s a negative.
You need at least 1mm of offset to compensate for the material thickness
That was very cool and interesting. Thanks a lot for sharing!
I think metal body panels for the wraith 1.9 would be sorta easy this way. Especially a metal hood
Love the video man. But maybe lower the green saturation in post.
I don't have a 3D Printer... EVERYONE knows my story by now. 😖 I do wonder, by the time I can afford one, will they be extremely user friendly, or so difficult that I'll have to take a course just to turn it on?? 😳
This was extremely useful Josh! Really, thank you!
Carmine ✈🚂🚙
Very rewarding!
Now for the full body stamp
Pretty cool! Great job!
Excellent video! Very informative and inspiring. Thank you!
Tinkercad works pretty well for simple parts.
also complex parts if you know how to use it well
@@one10RC Yeah I think it takes more time than in other programs.
McMaster Carr.
Excellent!
See you there:)
So good! Well done tutorial Josh. Added it to my list of things to try.
It looks good, we are also a strong manufacturer of sheet metal fabrication in China, with high quality and competitive price.
pretty freeking cool 👍🏼
it would be easier to make the second half if you just created a block and used the first half to subtract the shape from it using the combine tool. (making sure keep tools is checked)
then you can select the faces of the top half and right click "press pull" it in a negative direction for the thickness of your steel sheet so your not forcing it into a zero tolerance form.
that would save you like 10+ minutes.
i been using CAD software for 10 years (you probably dont care) and find a lot of time saving tricks.
Hey, might be a bit late to the party, but do you think it's possible to use this method to create the outer shell of a computer mouse? (say 45mm between the highest and lowest point of the stamped part, and failty organic shapes) I've been thinking about designing my own mouse and have been looking into different ways of forming metals as it would be a interessting material to use :)
Also great video! really straight forward and not a lot of fuss :)
I'm even later, but here's a video by Stuff Made Here that goes into more depth (pun intended).
th-cam.com/video/8cNeAOpR-Ws/w-d-xo.html
super video, buddy, definitely like 👍 👍 👍
that is AWESOME
Using the "project" function is your friend.
Enginerd level 10
Can u make me that lambo shell 30 inches wide.. The front hood and bumper only not whole body
Once you said inner fender it all made sense, thanks for the great idea!!! Edit: Metal body!!!
I said out loud, " OH I SEE IT NOW!" haha
How about using it to stamp out a metal grill?
Where can I get 3d printed logo stamps from? Help me out guys
a lot of steps seems unnecessary you can make everything from one sketch and just offset faces to get space for the metal.
and this way changes have less chance to break everything.
and you don't need to have the top as far as it's you can make each of them as component and fusion will make one transparent when you work on the other.
What gauge aluminum do you use for these panels I'm working on a project and I'd like something that is pliable enough to dent as it's used. Can't seem to find anything that's not a 300 foot roll. Thanks in advance, Me
I use 0.025" for all my panels and it works great.
Thank you sir I spent 3 hours trying to research this stuff. I almost bought disposable aluminum cookie sheets 😆
Awesome 👍🏻
You know what´s cool ? Same method can be used to wood (thin sheets of veneer layered and glued in between) and "vulkanfiber" (which looks like lether).
If someone has tried that out please let me know.
Looks like 3 people who didn't like this, need to go get themselves a 3D Printer. ;)
why not use a rubber mallet?
'offset entity' is your friend
My Fusion skills are weak, in Solidworks I definitely know my commands much better.
@@HarleyDesignsInc why don't you use solidworks?
Very nice. I wish I could swing a hammer as fast as you though.....
👍👍😎👍👍
Can you make a microphone?
@16:40
nice video but your intro is way too loud!
👍🏽🐒🇺🇸
Ok bro first few minutes is you saying the same thing 4 times.
damn; I'm disappointed; much of this content was about a guy's face ...with a beard?