EXTREMELY valuable video! Thank you, Robert! I have 6 synths with 240x64 EL backlit LCDs to change and for which I've been anxiously deciding upon new EL panels vs. new LED LCDs. After seeing this, I don't have vises, oscilloscopes, special multimeters, patience to identify additional parts, wait for them, deal with flying sparks, shards of metal, Dremel, Makuta drills, adapters, thermal lances, whatever. (I had heard about cutting standoff posts in K2000R in order to allow for thicker LED LCDs, but this was worse than I imagined.) if this edited video is an hour, it must have taken 3-4 hours of actual work. Plus time waiting for parts to be shipped to you. Plus uncertainty of exactly which generic LCD you're getting and which resistors, etc you need. And wondering whether it really will last. In the end, I'm getting replacement EL panels for under $4 each, and I'll deal with 3000-hour halflives. Until someone creates LED-based EL-panel replacements.
Hello Jeffrey! Replacing LCD with new thicker model - this is a lot of work, not very elegant in terms of keeping the original condition of the instrument. But this LED LCD is so much better!!!! At the beginning I did replaced EL foil with new one, of course - but display was still horrible dark and most of all: contrast was so poor - which for me is very important, because I play music on stage from time to time, and there - with random and unstable lightning, you need something really bright, maximum readable and contrasted as much as possible. EL foil was very beautiful, turquoise firefly like magic light and I love it - but not on stage :) By the way - could you please name your 6 synths?? :) And regarding to my video - it is a little overwhelmed with details and this oscilloscope was really not unnecessary - but I'm perfectionist, what can I say - I like to know and I like to check if I can :) But in general as I said - whole procedure might be much simpler, when done second and more times - nonetheless - it is good that my video shows how complex and demanding this replacement is, for sure you need some tools and knowledge - it is not just swapping, especially with 110V EL foil inverter!!!! So I'm very glad, that you could see it and not started whole thing to get stuck somewhere in the middle, maybe even damaging your instrument! Thanks for your feedback! Take care :)
@@robertgogol289 Hi Robert! Thanks for your reply and understanding. EVERY little electronics project I've done lately seems like a new adventure, very slow and frustrating, although most work out in the end. I think I have too many synth projects simultaneously now, making me anxious and paralyzed a bit! The 6 synths that I will renew backlights on are: A working K2000R, a broken and completely in pieces K2000R (capacitors look perfect, boots to all pixels active display which fades, all red lights flash, disk drive light stays on, issue definitely in Audio/Power board), Yamaha TG77, Kawai K5000S, E-mu E-Synth Keyboard, Korg 01/W-FD. By the way, I actually laughed out loud at a few of the Polish expressions you said (or at least the auto subtitles translation)! I forget what they were, should've written them down ...
@@ShallRemainUnknown Yes, learning electronics is extremely frustrating - when I started I had something like 1 success for 100 failures - now after many years it is like a 1 success for 10 failures, which makes me very happy :) Your Kurzweil - interesting damage! Check this channel - it is excellent about servicing Kurz: th-cam.com/video/rFT80Mq5Sgo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=bradthx Your synths - creme de la creme of 80/90's - a collection that reveals excellent taste :) I didn't know Emu Esynth - looks very promising: "At the heart of E-Synth is E-mu's Digital Modular Synthesis (DMS) technology, which provides you with 64-voice polyphony (expandable to 128 voices), 64 digital 6 pole filters, 32-voice layering, 128-voice velocity switching, and easy-to-use patch-cord architexture. " I'll have a look at its reference manual - maybe another synth to buy?
I receive it and just plug it, without make attention about the inverters… it’s work but I prefer to get out inverters … the 100 ohm is the mass black cable, right ?
Mam taki sam wyświetlacz tosziby, nie rozumiem dlaczego nie mogę jedynie przepiąć żółtych kabelków zasilania oświetlenia ze starego wyświetlacza do nowego - oczywiście używając przedłużenia bo nowy wyświetlacz ma zasilanie po prawej stronie. Mówisz, że należy usunąć przetwornice , dlaczego? I gdzie finalnie wpiąłeś na płycie te kabelki od zasilania? Czy w to miejsce , w które była wpięta przetwornica gdzieś na płycie?
Z oryginalnej przetwornicy wychodzi 100V dla folii elektroluminescencyjnej - to spali diody led. Tu podłączam się do miejsca na płycie głównej - tam gdzie była podłaczona pretwornica th-cam.com/video/qRRZFffa6_o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ngWG25XYuuS8hkd4&t=1709 potem do tego gniazda podłączam diody z opornikiem 100ohm zalutowanym na kablu, przy zachowaniu polaryzacji th-cam.com/video/qRRZFffa6_o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4Kq4G7Cw3W0E6d3G&t=1985
@@robertgogol289 ja mam wersje z klawiatura, cxy to mozliwe, ze nie ma takiej przetwornicy? Nigdzie jej nie widze a maiłem oryginalny wyświetlacz, może to jest w takiej wersji inaczej zrobione? To jest Janis.
While the topic itself is relevant (I have two Kurzweils), that kind of a nasty Slavic approach is seriously irritating. The author is unable to concentrate himself on the topic and talks about everything else in the world. Seen this disability too much in my life and always in relation to Slavic tribes. It's a cultural problem.
Depreciating Slavs... this is one nasty tribal attitude I find seriously irritating. It's a political problem. Are you a Nazi? PS Love your Avatar, so indicative or exemplary of such attitude.
Nice work. Looks awesome.
EXTREMELY valuable video! Thank you, Robert! I have 6 synths with 240x64 EL backlit LCDs to change and for which I've been anxiously deciding upon new EL panels vs. new LED LCDs.
After seeing this, I don't have vises, oscilloscopes, special multimeters, patience to identify additional parts, wait for them, deal with flying sparks, shards of metal, Dremel, Makuta drills, adapters, thermal lances, whatever. (I had heard about cutting standoff posts in K2000R in order to allow for thicker LED LCDs, but this was worse than I imagined.)
if this edited video is an hour, it must have taken 3-4 hours of actual work. Plus time waiting for parts to be shipped to you. Plus uncertainty of exactly which generic LCD you're getting and which resistors, etc you need. And wondering whether it really will last.
In the end, I'm getting replacement EL panels for under $4 each, and I'll deal with 3000-hour halflives. Until someone creates LED-based EL-panel replacements.
Hello Jeffrey! Replacing LCD with new thicker model - this is a lot of work, not very elegant in terms of keeping the original condition of the instrument. But this LED LCD is so much better!!!! At the beginning I did replaced EL foil with new one, of course - but display was still horrible dark and most of all: contrast was so poor - which for me is very important, because I play music on stage from time to time, and there - with random and unstable lightning, you need something really bright, maximum readable and contrasted as much as possible. EL foil was very beautiful, turquoise firefly like magic light and I love it - but not on stage :)
By the way - could you please name your 6 synths?? :)
And regarding to my video - it is a little overwhelmed with details and this oscilloscope was really not unnecessary - but I'm perfectionist, what can I say - I like to know and I like to check if I can :) But in general as I said - whole procedure might be much simpler, when done second and more times - nonetheless - it is good that my video shows how complex and demanding this replacement is, for sure you need some tools and knowledge - it is not just swapping, especially with 110V EL foil inverter!!!! So I'm very glad, that you could see it and not started whole thing to get stuck somewhere in the middle, maybe even damaging your instrument!
Thanks for your feedback! Take care :)
@@robertgogol289 Hi Robert! Thanks for your reply and understanding.
EVERY little electronics project I've done lately seems like a new adventure, very slow and frustrating, although most work out in the end. I think I have too many synth projects simultaneously now, making me anxious and paralyzed a bit!
The 6 synths that I will renew backlights on are: A working K2000R, a broken and completely in pieces K2000R (capacitors look perfect, boots to all pixels active display which fades, all red lights flash, disk drive light stays on, issue definitely in Audio/Power board), Yamaha TG77, Kawai K5000S, E-mu E-Synth Keyboard, Korg 01/W-FD.
By the way, I actually laughed out loud at a few of the Polish expressions you said (or at least the auto subtitles translation)! I forget what they were, should've written them down ...
@@ShallRemainUnknown Yes, learning electronics is extremely frustrating - when I started I had something like 1 success for 100 failures - now after many years it is like a 1 success for 10 failures, which makes me very happy :)
Your Kurzweil - interesting damage! Check this channel - it is excellent about servicing Kurz:
th-cam.com/video/rFT80Mq5Sgo/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=bradthx
Your synths - creme de la creme of 80/90's - a collection that reveals excellent taste :)
I didn't know Emu Esynth - looks very promising: "At the heart of E-Synth is E-mu's Digital Modular Synthesis (DMS) technology, which provides you with 64-voice polyphony (expandable to 128 voices), 64 digital 6 pole filters, 32-voice layering, 128-voice velocity switching, and easy-to-use patch-cord architexture. " I'll have a look at its reference manual - maybe another synth to buy?
1 success for 10 failures ???? Change activity, you re not made for this ... I have one failure for 30 success and I only start 4 Years ago
LCD AG 240064A BIX E6 driver Toshiba T6963C is the display to purchase ?
display model: LCD-AG-240064A
with driver: TOSHIBA T6963C
Thanks I order one
I receive it and just plug it, without make attention about the inverters… it’s work but I prefer to get out inverters … the 100 ohm is the mass black cable, right ?
Mam taki sam wyświetlacz tosziby, nie rozumiem dlaczego nie mogę jedynie przepiąć żółtych kabelków zasilania oświetlenia ze starego wyświetlacza do nowego - oczywiście używając przedłużenia bo nowy wyświetlacz ma zasilanie po prawej stronie. Mówisz, że należy usunąć przetwornice , dlaczego? I gdzie finalnie wpiąłeś na płycie te kabelki od zasilania? Czy w to miejsce , w które była wpięta przetwornica gdzieś na płycie?
Z oryginalnej przetwornicy wychodzi 100V dla folii elektroluminescencyjnej - to spali diody led.
Tu podłączam się do miejsca na płycie głównej - tam gdzie była podłaczona pretwornica th-cam.com/video/qRRZFffa6_o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ngWG25XYuuS8hkd4&t=1709
potem do tego gniazda podłączam diody z opornikiem 100ohm zalutowanym na kablu, przy zachowaniu polaryzacji
th-cam.com/video/qRRZFffa6_o/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4Kq4G7Cw3W0E6d3G&t=1985
@@robertgogol289 ja mam wersje z klawiatura, cxy to mozliwe, ze nie ma takiej przetwornicy? Nigdzie jej nie widze a maiłem oryginalny wyświetlacz, może to jest w takiej wersji inaczej zrobione? To jest Janis.
a co ze stają dyskietek? dyskietki Masz?
Tak! Mam i namiętnie używam - ograniczenie pojemności do 1,44MB doskonale czyści głowę :)
0:04:37 rulez
HEHE :D
- zaraz reszte spisu tresci zrobie - bedzie wiecej kwiatkow :P
While the topic itself is relevant (I have two Kurzweils), that kind of a nasty Slavic approach is seriously irritating. The author is unable to concentrate himself on the topic and talks about everything else in the world. Seen this disability too much in my life and always in relation to Slavic tribes. It's a cultural problem.
Depreciating Slavs... this is one nasty tribal attitude I find seriously irritating. It's a political problem. Are you a Nazi? PS Love your Avatar, so indicative or exemplary of such attitude.