Can not believe so many people are so mean to a person simply wants to share knowledge and paid such an effort to make a video. It is always easy typing some negative words than actually doing something meaningful.
Very good video but where did the load neutral appear from? He just pulls it through from the rear of the box with no explanation of where that came from. Can anyone advise?
*Question:* As Australian and New Zealand electrical regulations are basically the same, however, I understand with MCB's there different ratings (domestic), 10A Lights, 20 Power (gpo), 32 range (stove), 16 Hot Water. The RCD's are rated at 63A with 32mA trip (safety). Here in NZ, the 32A (stove) doesn't go via a RCD even the stove us half the current! In Australia (new homes/for sale and rental) does the stove (32A) go via a RCD? Is that the Australian regulation? Or is this optional?
In QLD more or less everything must now be protected by an RCD, lights, general power, stove, air con, HWS etc. Only existing equipment may not be protected. Additions / alterations / new build / even sale of the house must have RCDs fitted. Buy a new stove for an old house and it must have an RCD on the circuit.
@@retrozmachine1189 100% agree, currently I live in a state house, before that _rental 2015_ no RCD's at all this place everything but the HW and range has RCD's. This here in New Zealand - way behind Australia! I thought that very old houses, before 1978 were exempt to have RCD's? There are houses that the wiring is that old, it still uses rubber insulation! Of course it sold, the wiring has to be upgraded to Au/NZ standards!
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 Old installations aren't exempt but if nothing is done to them, no electrical work, no hardwired appliances changed out etc there is not currently a requirement to fit RCDs to private houses in QLD. Rentals must have RCDs fitted no matter what. The old rubber, as in VIR? That'd be a scary thing indeed or is it the still end of life and liable to crack off TRS?
@@retrozmachine1189 Yes VIR. Here in NZ either its the same regulations and NZ don't enforce the regulations, a building inspector said to me, it depends where you are in Australian and NZ, depends what is enforced, I said to him BS here a Question, on the power pole the top wires are 11,000V, while the lower ones (3 phase) between any 2 is about 400V, but between any one via load - house - is about 240V, how! It for those Americans that don't understand how we do things
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 It's not illegal to have old wiring in a private house in QLD but you are leaving yourself open to fires and if your installation proves unsafe should you get a sparky in to do some work they will have to make it safe, even if that means cutting circuits or the whole place off. I keep saying in QLD because the ANZ standard is the basis of the rules but each state has it's own electrical regulations and those regulations trump the standard. Regarding the 3 phase + N, the N is the key. Phase to phase is about 400V (used to be 415/240V here until we moved to nominal 230V) but phase to neutral is 230V. You multiply or divide by the sqr root of 3.
Long wait for an answer, eh? Whilst the RCD will still trip on a fault you may find that the test circuit, often just a resistor, will burn out if you hold the button down and the device is being supplied from the wrong side.
The RCBOs (as they are called in the UK) have a captive neutral wire so that isn't required. Another difference is that the line voltage will be delivered to the RCBOs (or any other devices) with a solid copper bus bar, not a via a lot lot of links which is also connected to the main switch (which will be double, not single pole). However, that tiny box with two circuits is surely not for a whole property. We do have small units in the UK too designed for outhouses, garages and so on, but they are still bigger than that, typically with 5 DIN widths, and have connection terminal bars for earth and neutral. Having the neutrals and earth terminal strips outside the unit looks odd from a UK perspective. Is that normal in Australia? Also, they now have to be made of non-flammable materials, which basically means metal (that wasn't the case a few years ago). In a perfect world, now that RCBOs are so common, both neutral and line ought to be delivered by bus bars (indeed, even earth too) and then the whole lot can be tidied up.
Apart from the electric hotwater system, does the range/stove need to be connected to a RCD, as in the past wih a pot on the stove, I felt some current travelling in tom my hand and using my multimeter and yes there was 240V going the pot via earth. Is this legal? I am NOT lienced sparky, but I know something about RCD's & electrical wiring. My GPO's and lighting are connected via RCD's and the TPS is 2core with earth (modern wiring)!
@@JohnZoetebier I understand about garages etc, they have their own sub panels, I would run a 60 Amp cable from a RCD from the main consumer unit (case of fault between house and garage), as most homes are single phase and the range has an optional link for single phase instead of two phase wiring. I would believe a domestic RCD couldn't carry the current required for a range?
@@dashaB-sl4pu I am i australia and we still use red black green although i find a lot of appliances and extension leads use brown blue green and some green has a yellow strip through it i think on housing installations
An RCBO and an RCD are different things. An RCD will not provide overload protection by tripping once a certain current is reached, an RCBO should. A RCD only protects against residual current and earth leaks. An rcbo is used in this demonstration...
As a second year apprentice sparky, who regularly searches on TH-cam for videos like this, I'd like to let you know why your video isn't, for me, one of those rare how-to-sparky videos that you'd recommend to a class mate. Firstly, this is a rcbo- which is not the quite the same as a rcd. Rcbo is a both a breaker and a rcd. While a rcd is just that. Was hoping you would demonstrate what you need to know about adding a rcd to existing circuits, or how to link one or multiple breakers with one or multiple existing/new rcd. You spent almost 2 minutes explaining how a breaker Clips to a din rail and how to pull it out and what the mechanism does. If someone doesn't know what that is they probably shouldn't be rewiring any circuits. It's not what the student is here to see. And neither is showing fast forwarded scenes of someone preparing cables to terrible music. You gotta cut that. Your videos should around 7 minutes which they could easily be but you need to be far more succinct in your delivery. Write down exactly what you're gonna say and then read it out in a series of steps. Maybe you'd consider making a video considering the first point I made. You might was well call it "the seven steps of wiring/rewiring a rcd" Top marks for effort, but video needs to reduced to 7 minutes and needs more examples.
lets asume you've done good job//joke// - but in real life it will be NOT - this is just school level and realy low level lets asume --- if you do - to show this DO IT PROPERLY LIKE SHOLD BE
I understand this is “schooling”. And you have spent the money to produce a video and willing to stand in front of a camera... Why do we not school properly. What country is this for? This is a very very average example of a board and a change over to an RCD.... When I school, I to try set standards, like mounting things level for starters. As one would know, apprentices are lazy. If I presented a board wired remotely similar to this to my tradesman back in the day, I would have been shown the door. My point in, training videos - FOR electricity, take the time, cut the video as required to use the resources and time to do it right, and neat. This isn’t hair dressing, the consequences of some hobo installing his own RCD and inserting the cable BEHIND the screw even though he tightened it fully - subsequently burning down his house due to a hot joint Is high.
Can not believe so many people are so mean to a person simply wants to share knowledge and paid such an effort to make a video. It is always easy typing some negative words than actually doing something meaningful.
When Bon Jovi is not making music, he does electrical workshops 😊
Very good video but where did the load neutral appear from? He just pulls it through from the rear of the box with no explanation of where that came from. Can anyone advise?
RIP headphone users
*Question:* As Australian and New Zealand electrical regulations are basically the same, however, I understand with MCB's there different ratings (domestic), 10A Lights, 20 Power (gpo), 32 range (stove), 16 Hot Water. The RCD's are rated at 63A with 32mA trip (safety). Here in NZ, the 32A (stove) doesn't go via a RCD even the stove us half the current!
In Australia (new homes/for sale and rental) does the stove (32A) go via a RCD?
Is that the Australian regulation? Or is this optional?
In QLD more or less everything must now be protected by an RCD, lights, general power, stove, air con, HWS etc. Only existing equipment may not be protected. Additions / alterations / new build / even sale of the house must have RCDs fitted. Buy a new stove for an old house and it must have an RCD on the circuit.
@@retrozmachine1189 100% agree, currently I live in a state house, before that _rental 2015_ no RCD's at all this place everything but the HW and range has RCD's. This here in New Zealand - way behind Australia! I thought that very old houses, before 1978 were exempt to have RCD's? There are houses that the wiring is that old, it still uses rubber insulation! Of course it sold, the wiring has to be upgraded to Au/NZ standards!
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 Old installations aren't exempt but if nothing is done to them, no electrical work, no hardwired appliances changed out etc there is not currently a requirement to fit RCDs to private houses in QLD. Rentals must have RCDs fitted no matter what.
The old rubber, as in VIR? That'd be a scary thing indeed or is it the still end of life and liable to crack off TRS?
@@retrozmachine1189 Yes VIR.
Here in NZ either its the same regulations and NZ don't enforce the regulations, a building inspector said to me, it depends where you are in Australian and NZ, depends what is enforced, I said to him BS
here a Question, on the power pole the top wires are 11,000V, while the lower ones (3 phase) between any 2 is about 400V, but between any one via load - house - is about 240V, how! It for those Americans that don't understand how we do things
@@jonathonshanecrawford1840 It's not illegal to have old wiring in a private house in QLD but you are leaving yourself open to fires and if your installation proves unsafe should you get a sparky in to do some work they will have to make it safe, even if that means cutting circuits or the whole place off. I keep saying in QLD because the ANZ standard is the basis of the rules but each state has it's own electrical regulations and those regulations trump the standard.
Regarding the 3 phase + N, the N is the key. Phase to phase is about 400V (used to be 415/240V here until we moved to nominal 230V) but phase to neutral is 230V. You multiply or divide by the sqr root of 3.
Why wouldn’t the neutral from the neutral bar and the active from the top go into the bottom terminals, it would work the same won’t it ..!
Long wait for an answer, eh? Whilst the RCD will still trip on a fault you may find that the test circuit, often just a resistor, will burn out if you hold the button down and the device is being supplied from the wrong side.
What rcd stand for?
Residual Current Device
The RCBOs (as they are called in the UK) have a captive neutral wire so that isn't required. Another difference is that the line voltage will be delivered to the RCBOs (or any other devices) with a solid copper bus bar, not a via a lot lot of links which is also connected to the main switch (which will be double, not single pole).
However, that tiny box with two circuits is surely not for a whole property. We do have small units in the UK too designed for outhouses, garages and so on, but they are still bigger than that, typically with 5 DIN widths, and have connection terminal bars for earth and neutral. Having the neutrals and earth terminal strips outside the unit looks odd from a UK perspective. Is that normal in Australia? Also, they now have to be made of non-flammable materials, which basically means metal (that wasn't the case a few years ago).
In a perfect world, now that RCBOs are so common, both neutral and line ought to be delivered by bus bars (indeed, even earth too) and then the whole lot can be tidied up.
😅
Apart from the electric hotwater system, does the range/stove need to be connected to a RCD, as in the past wih a pot on the stove, I felt some current travelling in tom my hand and using my multimeter and yes there was 240V going the pot via earth. Is this legal?
I am NOT lienced sparky, but I know something about RCD's & electrical wiring. My GPO's and lighting are connected via RCD's and the TPS is 2core with earth (modern wiring)!
@@JohnZoetebier Maybe in Australia and New Zealand the range/cooker doesn't have to have a RCD for its outlets? Even a sub panel install by the range?
@@JohnZoetebier I understand about garages etc, they have their own sub panels, I would run a 60 Amp cable from a RCD from the main consumer unit (case of fault between house and garage), as most homes are single phase and the range has an optional link for single phase instead of two phase wiring.
I would believe a domestic RCD couldn't carry the current required for a range?
thank you for your had work it's really help me.
What country is this? We haven't used black for neutral for years now
Australia
@@dashaB-sl4pu I am i australia and we still use red black green although i find a lot of appliances and extension leads use brown blue green and some green has a yellow strip through it i think on housing installations
Why are the wire colors not correct? :P
Mcb does overload current and short circuit current not just overload
Wow, Bon Jovi, amazing.
Well understand thanks
Suggest you need a No2 Pozi drive screw driver not a Philips. using Philips will wear the driver and the screw head.
Bla bla bla
great tuition
We call them RCBO's...........
Here in Australia they are known as RCOB’s and combos
An RCBO and an RCD are different things. An RCD will not provide overload protection by tripping once a certain current is reached, an RCBO should. A RCD only protects against residual current and earth leaks. An rcbo is used in this demonstration...
@@callumgigliotti5391 you think that I don't actually know that?
Watch the video he's fitting an RCBO not an RCD hence my comment
wtf man, almost blew out my ears with such loud music,WARNING DO NOT USE HEADPHONES!!!
As a second year apprentice sparky, who regularly searches on TH-cam for videos like this, I'd like to let you know why your video isn't, for me, one of those rare how-to-sparky videos that you'd recommend to a class mate.
Firstly, this is a rcbo- which is not the quite the same as a rcd. Rcbo is a both a breaker and a rcd. While a rcd is just that.
Was hoping you would demonstrate what you need to know about adding a rcd to existing circuits, or how to link one or multiple breakers with one or multiple existing/new rcd.
You spent almost 2 minutes explaining how a breaker Clips to a din rail and how to pull it out and what the mechanism does. If someone doesn't know what that is they probably shouldn't be rewiring any circuits.
It's not what the student is here to see. And neither is showing fast forwarded scenes of someone preparing cables to terrible music. You gotta cut that. Your videos should around 7 minutes which they could easily be but you need to be far more succinct in your delivery. Write down exactly what you're gonna say and then read it out in a series of steps.
Maybe you'd consider making a video considering the first point I made. You might was well call it "the seven steps of wiring/rewiring a rcd"
Top marks for effort, but video needs to reduced to 7 minutes and needs more examples.
Zambia
You give Electrical work a bad name. stick to singing JBJ
lets asume you've done good job//joke// - but in real life it will be NOT - this is just school level and realy low level lets asume --- if you do - to show this DO IT PROPERLY LIKE SHOLD BE
Amazing video mate
This is just bloddy dangerous no matter what the country is👎👎👎
This video fully complies with the AS NZS 3000
I understand this is “schooling”. And you have spent the money to produce a video and willing to stand in front of a camera... Why do we not school properly. What country is this for? This is a very very average example of a board and a change over to an RCD....
When I school, I to try set standards, like mounting things level for starters. As one would know, apprentices are lazy.
If I presented a board wired remotely similar to this to my tradesman back in the day, I would have been shown the door. My point in, training videos - FOR electricity, take the time, cut the video as required to use the resources and time to do it right, and neat.
This isn’t hair dressing, the consequences of some hobo installing his own RCD and inserting the cable BEHIND the screw even though he tightened it fully - subsequently burning down his house due to a hot joint Is high.
This is in Australia and fully complies with the AS/NZ 3000 standard.