The other big change was reprogramming the controller which has made a massive difference to the way power is applied, making the bike much nicer to ride and easier to control. If anyone wants more details, drop me a line.
Two months no chain broken...replaced cassette, rotor w/pinion gear, clutch replaced and it destroyed the inside gears, replaced reduction gear with cover... kit cost $1.3k usd 52v 17.5ah battery,bbshd 100w 48v on a 29er mountain bike. Plussss...$300 in 2 months in damages...🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐
@@marcostirado5537 I've been running this with a Rohloff 500/14 for nearly a year now with no problems whatsoever. I do however try to use it realistically, i.e. I don't hit full throttle in the hardest gear from a slow speed, or try to climb steep hills on throttle in a high gear. I use my legs as a guide to how I use the power and the gearing. It's an ebike, not an electric motorbike.
Did you ever have any luck with the 2 chainrings? I've wondered why nobody has tried this, if nothing else to have a better chain line and larger ring for the faster gears while commuting and smaller ring for the slower gears for trail riding. I do both on my bike. I did my bbshd conversion this past November.
Hello Tim. I ran it for a while with both chainrings, changing manually (which was a bit of a pain). Last summer I decided to take the plunge and bought a Rohloff 14 speed internal gear which I matched with a BBSHD spider from Lunacycles and a Blackspire Cyclocross 44T crankplate to give me the perfect chainline. The Rohloff gives me the equivalent of several gears above what I previously had so I normally start in fourth gear and a couple of gears below, so I can go faster too. I must say I'm really happy with this setup, I think it's the perfect match for the BBSHD and a real pleasure to ride. There's a small adjustment to make compared to useing a derailleur, as with the Rohloff, you can't change gear under pressure, you have to ease off. You can however change up or down any number of gears, in an instant, even if you're not moving. This ability to suddenly change up or down five or more gears, gives you a lot of flexibilty. It also handles the torque from the BBSHD without any problems. Of course there's also no irritating derailleur noise or slippage! The only issue really is the price!
Should have purchased the Lekkie spacer, makes it very easy to fit I have the Lekkie 42 and 52 Chain rings with one spacer in-between working with a XShifter gear change on My BBSHD motor
@@Boxbeat666 The BBSHD has much beefier electronics than the BBS02. I've been running it on a 52V battery (42V to 58.8V) since May 2017 with no problems whatsoever.
Hello. The kit I bought (Bafang BBSHD) was advertised as "1000W". The wattage depends on the voltage and the Amps you can/are putting through the system, Volts x Amps = Watts. This is a 48V kit, but I'm running it with a 52V battery (14S9P - that's fouteen batteries connected to produce 52 V times 9, so 126 18650 cells altogether) When the battery is fully charged it's around 58.7V. It puts out (according to the Cycle Analyst) 32Amps, so 58.7 Volts x 32 Amps = 1878 Watts. The " speed" will depend on your gearing (the bigger your front crank and the smaller your smallest rear cog, plus the faster your pedal cadence) the faster you'll go. On the flat, this kit will easily power you along at 50+kph.
@@murselincelik8411 I think you'll find that the 750W Bafang mid-drive is the BBS02, not the BBSHD. The BBS02 was my first kit, with a 48V battery (13S5P) which is now on my brother-in-law's bike. Again, it wasn't really "750W" it was sold as a 500W kit, but under the motor it was stamped as "48V 20 Amps". The voltage range was 46.8V to 54.6V (fully charged), which equates to a wattage range of 936W to 1092W (at 20 Amps), so not 750W. Some people "overvolt" the BBS02 to 52V as well, obviously giving more power - 1008W to 1176W (at 20 Amps). I ran the BBS02 for three years and my brother-in law has been using it for the last three, so six years altogether and still going strong (with no repairs). I've been using the BBSHD for the last three years (again no faults so far). Comparing the two, the electronics on the BBSHD are engineered for a lot more power and it doesn't get as hot (even on the 52V battery). Sometimes the BBS02 would overheat and need to cool down if you ran it at full power for a long time in the summer or also on long climbs. This has never happened with the BBSHD even though I'm putting an extra 10 Amps through it. The BBSHD clearly has a lot more power and a lot more torque. With the gearing I have, it will climb almost vertical slopes! On a few occasions, the slope was so steep, I had to lean forward over the handlebars, to stop the bike going over backwards, and went up just on throttle, as I couldn't pedal in that position. The BBS02 couldn't do that They are both great kits though and both pretty fast with the right gearing.
More power, in those occasions when you need it. Better cooling when using the extra power, the BBSHD has better cooling fins. Also, more peace of mind when it comes to the controller (unless you have the uprated BBS02 one) as the BBSHD is overbuilt in the electronics department with more and better mosfets or at least that's what I've read. To be honest, I was very happy with the BBS02. It ran perfectly for the three years I used it and it's still running perfectly for my brother-in-law who's used it for the last year. When I gave the BBS02 to him, this was a good excuse for me to "upgrade"! 8) The main upgrade really though was the battery, more than the motor. Most of the time I only use low levels of power, except when climbing really steep trails. This is when you do notice a difference as the BBSHD is pulling 32Amps at full throttle. The real upgrade though was switching from a 13S5P battery to a 14S9P one. This meant going from 48V nominal to 52V and from 65 cells to 126. I can really thrash my battery now if I want/need to. It also gives me well over 150km (I've never done more than 110km on the dirt trails I ride). Also most of the time I'm in the voltage sweet spot and rarely go below 50V. My old battery is good for about 90km and the last part only gives weak assitance as the voltage swing takes it down to the cut off if you push it. You're okay as long as you don't have a hill at the end! A few weeks ago we did another stage of a canal near where we live. I cycled into town (about 15km) and my brother-in-law drove down with his bike trailer to pick me up. We then went to the next part of the canal and did about 70 kms. He drove me back to town and then I cycled home (15km). After the 85km I'd already done, I just wanted to get home as I was knackered, so I wacked it up to level nine assist (about 1000W) and cycled home at about 40-45Km/h. I couldn't have done this with the old battery.
My latest upgrade (I've done another video) which I'm really happy with is the Rohloff internal gear hub. Amazing piece of German quality engineering and perfect for these drives. It's quite a big investment, but is supposed to be good for over 100,000km, so should outlast me!
@@mick2d2 I get 60km distance with 30kmph. My 48v is 13ah. My new battery will be 52v 16ah. I was reading up on the 52v range. Its better and not so much a power problem. My bbs02 is made in july 2018. We have all flat terrain in Holland so hitting that 45kmph is no problem. Its the powerband that i do not like at the moment. I will read the usb programming instructions and see what can be done. When on 1-5 assist in assist 2 the 40-45kmph is there already. I want it more smooth.
@@mick2d2 That rohloff internal gear shifting is very cool. I do need to say i have a giant talon with a very good shifter and back derailleur. Never had 1 mishap or chain problem. But i will look in to this for the future. I have seen electronic shifter to. Battery life 3 months. Pretty cool stuff :-)
@@rtoebak76 I've got through two Shimano Saint derailleurs in the las four years and broken the sacrificial piece where the derailleur is screwed to the frame twice. Virtually all my riding is off road and my bike gets knocked about quite a bit. I really like the perfect chain line of the Rohloff and also the amazing gear ratios. I've done about 1500km on it so far.
Brian Bassett Yes, I've done a few more updates since this video. I'm using a 42T Blingring and my latest change is a Rohloff speed hub which is amazing. I'll post a video soon.
I started with a Speed-hub, got rid of the brake shut-offs the 1st day. Then installed "The Green Button". The Rohloff and the BaFang are like they were made for each other.
Brian Bassett What do you mean by "the green button"? I'm really loving the Rohloff. I was finding the ten speed derailleurs to be a bit of a pain. If they get knocked about a bit, it then becomes nigh on impossible to adjust all the gears correctly. With the speed hub, there's no chain slap, it's like always being in the perfect gear. It's not quite perfectly lined up with the bling ring and it would be nice if I could get rid of the chain tensioner. Other than that, I'm very happy with it.
mick2d2 - Do a search for "The Giant Green Button", it is a button to mount on the bars that hooks up to the brake cut-off. You can push and hold the button and the motor won't come one as you pedal. You will find yourself using it more and more and that saves power. I know what you mean with the Rohloff. Once you stop having to pedal to shift it makes things so much more simple. I was hoping not to have the tensioner too, it's so clean looking without one but after almost 8000 miles I have had no problems with any of it. My chain alignment is almost perfect. Have a great day.
Hello Robert, I had no problems with the USB. I bought this cable: lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-parts/bbshd-parts/bafang-bbs02-and-bbshd-programming-cable/ But I've also seen it here: fasterbikes.eu/en/matching-wires/198-bafang-bbs-programming-cable-usbmatching-wires.html YOU REALLY DO NEED TO READ UP ON THE SOFTWARE BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES: electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/ IF YOU DON'T DO THIS PROPERLY YOU CAN FRY THE CONTROLLER. Saying that, on the hacking guide it gives very clear instructions with several examples of how you can improve response. I use a slightly tweaked version of Kepler's (the pink one in the hacking guide). The tweaks I've done make the power delivery smoother and the power cut in and cut off quicker. I rode my BBS02 for nearly three years before changing this. I just wish I had done it before! When I started going out on my BBSHD with my brother-in-law on his BBS02, it was a real pain trying to match our speed, either I was surging ahead or he was! With this way of programming the controller it's easy. Power delivery is smooth and constant, none of that irritating surging that I had before. I have a pretty constant level of power delivery on each of the nine levels. (It's not 100% constant, because obviously the battery level changes as it moves from totally charged to discharged). What I have is (approximately with little variation) Level 1 gives 50W of assist (just about enough on the flat to compensate for the extra weight) Level 2 gives 100W Level 3 gives 150W I mostly use levels 2 & 3 for relaxed cycling on the flat on trails at about 20kph Level 4 gives 200W Level 5 gives 250W These two if I want to go faster, around 25-30 kph Level 6 gives 350W Level 7 gives 500W These will get you up most hills at a reasonable rate. Level 8 gives 750W Level 9 gives 1000W These will get you up virtually any dirt slope as long as you can keep the front wheel on the ground. Throttle I can use in any level from 0 to 9 and gives about 1600W This will get you up extreme dirt slopes when you have to lean your body forward over the cross bar to stop the bike from flipping over! This type of programming gives constant assist, with no surging. It makes the ebike feel like a normal bike, especially in the lower levels of assist. It also seems to give me better and much more predictable battery performance. Hope this helps!
That ring u had fitted over the bling ring im thinking of doing it and grinding it out to use as a bash guard. Are the standard screws long enough for both wheels ? Thanks (i do some hard riding i rocks take my teeth out )
Hello, I don't think they were because of the spacers I used. I glued together several washers for this, four I think. I've since changed the Bling ring for a different plate.
intra morph Good question! I was playing around with different combinations and cadences, to see what suited me best. I've since changed things around a bit. I now have a Rohloff 14 speed hub on the back and a modified spider with a 42T crank plate on the front. Modified because the Blingring didn't give a good chain line with the Rohloff.
nice how's the rohloff working out for you... my setup is 42T bling ring up front and i chose to go with sram ex1 ex-horizon 8 speed which is their e-bike special derailluer+cassette... it has a huge 11-48T range in the back and it's pretty expensive but i'm guessing the rohloff is even more expensive solution. Would love to see your new setup and how it runs. :)
I'll post a video with my "final" setup. I don't think I'll be making any more changes for a while, as the Rohloff upgrade was a bit pricey. I suppose everything is relative to the use you make of things. I use my bike every week and the Rohloff is supposed to last for at least 100,000KMs! The final tweak was adding a LunaCycle 130BCD spider and Blackspire Cyclocross 130/44T crank plate as the chainline with the Bling ring was a bit crooked. With this setup it's perfect. I'm really happy with the Rohloff, it's like always being in the right gear, no derailleur noise or grinding, no chain slipping or popping, just puts the power down. With the battery fully charged (58.8V) it can handle level 9 of the Pedalec in the highest gear from stationary (I'm 100KG). Obviously I don't normally do this, as it's causes unnecessary strain on the components. As far as the gears go, the combination of the Rohloff 16T and the 44T, gives me more gear range than I previously had. I normally start in 4th or 5th gear and I also have a couple of faster gears than with the 11T cog. It takes a little bit of adjustment to the gear change, as you can't change gear under tension, so you have to ease up slightly in order to make the change. In practice, I don't find this to be a problem as the BBSHD has loads of torque, so it's easy to compensate for this. The great thing is, you can change through lots of gears at one go and you don't need to think about changing gear when you stop, or making quick adjustments at a road junction. The best thing is, it's just so smooth when compared to a derailluer, and pretty much bullet proof. In the last five years, I've knackered two Shimano Saint derailleurs, one got badly bent out of shape when the derailleur hanger broke and the other hitting a tree stump. In first gear, you can climb literally any slope. You can also adjust this further by changing the cog on the Rohloff. I think you can fit anywhere between a 13T-21T cog. You can see all the possible combinations using Sheldon Brown's calculator: www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html I think it's the perfect combination for the BBSHD.
The other big change was reprogramming the controller which has made a massive difference to the way power is applied, making the bike much nicer to ride and easier to control. If anyone wants more details, drop me a line.
mick2d2 after 3 hub motors im starting to build a Midmotor conversation. I misshifted once and the chain was in pieces.
My BBSHD puts out about 1600W of power. Sometimes the chain will slip, but I haven't broken any chains yet.
Two months no chain broken...replaced cassette, rotor w/pinion gear, clutch replaced and it destroyed the inside gears, replaced reduction gear with cover... kit cost $1.3k usd 52v 17.5ah battery,bbshd 100w 48v on a 29er mountain bike. Plussss...$300 in 2 months in damages...🧐🧐🧐🧐🧐
@@marcostirado5537 I've been running this with a Rohloff 500/14 for nearly a year now with no problems whatsoever.
I do however try to use it realistically, i.e. I don't hit full throttle in the hardest gear from a slow speed, or try to climb steep hills on throttle in a high gear.
I use my legs as a guide to how I use the power and the gearing. It's an ebike, not an electric motorbike.
Did you ever have any luck with the 2 chainrings? I've wondered why nobody has tried this, if nothing else to have a better chain line and larger ring for the faster gears while commuting and smaller ring for the slower gears for trail riding. I do both on my bike. I did my bbshd conversion this past November.
Hello Tim. I ran it for a while with both chainrings, changing manually (which was a bit of a pain).
Last summer I decided to take the plunge and bought a Rohloff 14 speed internal gear which I matched with a BBSHD spider from Lunacycles and a Blackspire Cyclocross 44T crankplate to give me the perfect chainline.
The Rohloff gives me the equivalent of several gears above what I previously had so I normally start in fourth gear and a couple of gears below, so I can go faster too.
I must say I'm really happy with this setup, I think it's the perfect match for the BBSHD and a real pleasure to ride. There's a small adjustment to make compared to useing a derailleur, as with the Rohloff, you can't change gear under pressure, you have to ease off. You can however change up or down any number of gears, in an instant, even if you're not moving. This ability to suddenly change up or down five or more gears, gives you a lot of flexibilty. It also handles the torque from the BBSHD without any problems.
Of course there's also no irritating derailleur noise or slippage!
The only issue really is the price!
Should have purchased the Lekkie spacer, makes it very easy to fit I have the Lekkie 42 and 52 Chain rings with one spacer in-between working with a XShifter gear change on My BBSHD motor
Thanks for the input!
I switched to a Rohloff internal hub, which has more than enough gear range for one crank.
When you went to 52v from 48v did u have to reprogramme the low voltage cut off . I saw a vid where they said to do so . Thanks
dj james arundel Yes I did, because the cut off for a 48V battery is 3 x 13= 39V, whereas for a 52V battery it’s 14 x 3 = 42V.
@@mick2d2 u think a 48v would run ok on 52v settings and be safe .. I'd like to go 52v and still put the 48v on as a back up or for long days out.
@@Boxbeat666 The BBSHD has much beefier electronics than the BBS02.
I've been running it on a 52V battery (42V to 58.8V) since May 2017 with no problems whatsoever.
@@Boxbeat666 I do all day runs of up to 115km without any problems.
@@mick2d2 How many amp hours for the battery?
750w ile 1000w arasında hız farkı varmı ?
Is there a speed difference between 750w and 1000w?
Hello. The kit I bought (Bafang BBSHD) was advertised as "1000W".
The wattage depends on the voltage and the Amps you can/are putting through the system, Volts x Amps = Watts.
This is a 48V kit, but I'm running it with a 52V battery (14S9P - that's fouteen batteries connected to produce 52 V times 9, so 126 18650 cells altogether)
When the battery is fully charged it's around 58.7V.
It puts out (according to the Cycle Analyst) 32Amps, so 58.7 Volts x 32 Amps = 1878 Watts.
The " speed" will depend on your gearing (the bigger your front crank and the smaller your smallest rear cog, plus the faster your pedal cadence) the faster you'll go.
On the flat, this kit will easily power you along at 50+kph.
mick2d2 750w ?
@@murselincelik8411 I think you'll find that the 750W Bafang mid-drive is the BBS02, not the BBSHD.
The BBS02 was my first kit, with a 48V battery (13S5P) which is now on my brother-in-law's bike.
Again, it wasn't really "750W" it was sold as a 500W kit, but under the motor it was stamped as "48V 20 Amps".
The voltage range was 46.8V to 54.6V (fully charged), which equates to a wattage range of 936W to 1092W (at 20 Amps), so not 750W.
Some people "overvolt" the BBS02 to 52V as well, obviously giving more power - 1008W to 1176W (at 20 Amps).
I ran the BBS02 for three years and my brother-in law has been using it for the last three, so six years altogether and still going strong (with no repairs).
I've been using the BBSHD for the last three years (again no faults so far).
Comparing the two, the electronics on the BBSHD are engineered for a lot more power and it doesn't get as hot (even on the 52V battery).
Sometimes the BBS02 would overheat and need to cool down if you ran it at full power for a long time in the summer or also on long climbs. This has never happened with the BBSHD even though I'm putting an extra 10 Amps through it.
The BBSHD clearly has a lot more power and a lot more torque.
With the gearing I have, it will climb almost vertical slopes!
On a few occasions, the slope was so steep, I had to lean forward over the handlebars, to stop the bike going over backwards, and went up just on throttle, as I couldn't pedal in that position.
The BBS02 couldn't do that
They are both great kits though and both pretty fast with the right gearing.
thank you very much Greetings from turkey
@@murselincelik8411 You're welcome! Greetings to you from Spain.
I have bought a 52v for my 750w bbs02. My 48v drops fast i think. I will use that as reserve. What was the biggest difference going to the hd?
More power, in those occasions when you need it. Better cooling when using the extra power, the BBSHD has better cooling fins. Also, more peace of mind when it comes to the controller (unless you have the uprated BBS02 one) as the BBSHD is overbuilt in the electronics department with more and better mosfets or at least that's what I've read.
To be honest, I was very happy with the BBS02. It ran perfectly for the three years I used it and it's still running perfectly for my brother-in-law who's used it for the last year. When I gave the BBS02 to him, this was a good excuse for me to "upgrade"! 8)
The main upgrade really though was the battery, more than the motor.
Most of the time I only use low levels of power, except when climbing really steep trails. This is when you do notice a difference as the BBSHD is pulling 32Amps at full throttle.
The real upgrade though was switching from a 13S5P battery to a 14S9P one. This meant going from 48V nominal to 52V and from 65 cells to 126. I can really thrash my battery now if I want/need to. It also gives me well over 150km (I've never done more than 110km on the dirt trails I ride). Also most of the time I'm in the voltage sweet spot and rarely go below 50V. My old battery is good for about 90km and the last part only gives weak assitance as the voltage swing takes it down to the cut off if you push it. You're okay as long as you don't have a hill at the end!
A few weeks ago we did another stage of a canal near where we live. I cycled into town (about 15km) and my brother-in-law drove down with his bike trailer to pick me up. We then went to the next part of the canal and did about 70 kms. He drove me back to town and then I cycled home (15km). After the 85km I'd already done, I just wanted to get home as I was knackered, so I wacked it up to level nine assist (about 1000W) and cycled home at about 40-45Km/h. I couldn't have done this with the old battery.
My latest upgrade (I've done another video) which I'm really happy with is the Rohloff internal gear hub. Amazing piece of German quality engineering and perfect for these drives. It's quite a big investment, but is supposed to be good for over 100,000km, so should outlast me!
@@mick2d2 I get 60km distance with 30kmph. My 48v is 13ah. My new battery will be 52v 16ah. I was reading up on the 52v range. Its better and not so much a power problem. My bbs02 is made in july 2018. We have all flat terrain in Holland so hitting that 45kmph is no problem. Its the powerband that i do not like at the moment. I will read the usb programming instructions and see what can be done. When on 1-5 assist in assist 2 the 40-45kmph is there already. I want it more smooth.
@@mick2d2 That rohloff internal gear shifting is very cool. I do need to say i have a giant talon with a very good shifter and back derailleur. Never had 1 mishap or chain problem. But i will look in to this for the future. I have seen electronic shifter to. Battery life 3 months. Pretty cool stuff :-)
@@rtoebak76 I've got through two Shimano Saint derailleurs in the las four years and broken the sacrificial piece where the derailleur is screwed to the frame twice. Virtually all my riding is off road and my bike gets knocked about quite a bit. I really like the perfect chain line of the Rohloff and also the amazing gear ratios. I've done about 1500km on it so far.
Have yu seen the BlingRing?
Brian Bassett Yes, I've done a few more updates since this video. I'm using a 42T Blingring and my latest change is a Rohloff speed hub which is amazing. I'll post a video soon.
I started with a Speed-hub, got rid of the brake shut-offs the 1st day. Then installed "The Green Button". The Rohloff and the BaFang are like they were made for each other.
Brian Bassett What do you mean by "the green button"?
I'm really loving the Rohloff. I was finding the ten speed derailleurs to be a bit of a pain. If they get knocked about a bit, it then becomes nigh on impossible to adjust all the gears correctly. With the speed hub, there's no chain slap, it's like always being in the perfect gear. It's not quite perfectly lined up with the bling ring and it would be nice if I could get rid of the chain tensioner. Other than that, I'm very happy with it.
mick2d2 - Do a search for "The Giant Green Button", it is a button to mount on the bars that hooks up to the brake cut-off. You can push and hold the button and the motor won't come one as you pedal. You will find yourself using it more and more and that saves power. I know what you mean with the Rohloff. Once you stop having to pedal to shift it makes things so much more simple. I was hoping not to have the tensioner too, it's so clean looking without one but after almost 8000 miles I have had no problems with any of it. My chain alignment is almost perfect. Have a great day.
Cheers! You too.
Did you find any problems when using the usb. I feel like my mode 1-5 the mode 2 gives to much of a boost. Is that possible to change?
Hello Robert, I had no problems with the USB. I bought this cable:
lunacycle.com/parts/bafang-parts/bbshd-parts/bafang-bbs02-and-bbshd-programming-cable/
But I've also seen it here:
fasterbikes.eu/en/matching-wires/198-bafang-bbs-programming-cable-usbmatching-wires.html
YOU REALLY DO NEED TO READ UP ON THE SOFTWARE BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES:
electricbike-blog.com/2015/06/26/a-hackers-guide-to-programming-the-bbs02/
IF YOU DON'T DO THIS PROPERLY YOU CAN FRY THE CONTROLLER.
Saying that, on the hacking guide it gives very clear instructions with several examples of how you can improve response.
I use a slightly tweaked version of Kepler's (the pink one in the hacking guide).
The tweaks I've done make the power delivery smoother and the power cut in and cut off quicker.
I rode my BBS02 for nearly three years before changing this. I just wish I had done it before!
When I started going out on my BBSHD with my brother-in-law on his BBS02, it was a real pain trying to match our speed, either I was surging ahead or he was!
With this way of programming the controller it's easy.
Power delivery is smooth and constant, none of that irritating surging that I had before.
I have a pretty constant level of power delivery on each of the nine levels. (It's not 100% constant, because obviously the battery level changes as it moves from totally charged to discharged).
What I have is (approximately with little variation)
Level 1 gives 50W of assist (just about enough on the flat to compensate for the extra weight)
Level 2 gives 100W
Level 3 gives 150W
I mostly use levels 2 & 3 for relaxed cycling on the flat on trails at about 20kph
Level 4 gives 200W
Level 5 gives 250W
These two if I want to go faster, around 25-30 kph
Level 6 gives 350W
Level 7 gives 500W
These will get you up most hills at a reasonable rate.
Level 8 gives 750W
Level 9 gives 1000W
These will get you up virtually any dirt slope as long as you can keep the front wheel on the ground.
Throttle I can use in any level from 0 to 9 and gives about 1600W
This will get you up extreme dirt slopes when you have to lean your body forward over the cross bar to stop the bike from flipping over!
This type of programming gives constant assist, with no surging. It makes the ebike feel like a normal bike, especially in the lower levels of assist.
It also seems to give me better and much more predictable battery performance.
Hope this helps!
@@mick2d2 Sorry bout that. This slipt my inbox. I will read up.
That ring u had fitted over the bling ring im thinking of doing it and grinding it out to use as a bash guard. Are the standard screws long enough for both wheels ? Thanks (i do some hard riding i rocks take my teeth out )
Hello, I don't think they were because of the spacers I used. I glued together several washers for this, four I think. I've since changed the Bling ring for a different plate.
why do you have a bling ring and a bafang sunflower ring on top of that lmao...
intra morph Good question! I was playing around with different combinations and cadences, to see what suited me best. I've since changed things around a bit.
I now have a Rohloff 14 speed hub on the back and a modified spider with a 42T crank plate on the front. Modified because the Blingring didn't give a good chain line with the Rohloff.
nice how's the rohloff working out for you... my setup is 42T bling ring up front and i chose to go with sram ex1 ex-horizon 8 speed which is their e-bike special derailluer+cassette... it has a huge 11-48T range in the back and it's pretty expensive but i'm guessing the rohloff is even more expensive solution. Would love to see your new setup and how it runs. :)
I'll post a video with my "final" setup. I don't think I'll be making any more changes for a while, as the Rohloff upgrade was a bit pricey. I suppose everything is relative to the use you make of things. I use my bike every week and the Rohloff is supposed to last for at least 100,000KMs!
The final tweak was adding a LunaCycle 130BCD spider and Blackspire Cyclocross 130/44T crank plate as the chainline with the Bling ring was a bit crooked. With this setup it's perfect.
I'm really happy with the Rohloff, it's like always being in the right gear, no derailleur noise or grinding, no chain slipping or popping, just puts the power down.
With the battery fully charged (58.8V) it can handle level 9 of the Pedalec in the highest gear from stationary (I'm 100KG). Obviously I don't normally do this, as it's causes unnecessary strain on the components.
As far as the gears go, the combination of the Rohloff 16T and the 44T, gives me more gear range than I previously had. I normally start in 4th or 5th gear and I also have a couple of faster gears than with the 11T cog.
It takes a little bit of adjustment to the gear change, as you can't change gear under tension, so you have to ease up slightly in order to make the change. In practice, I don't find this to be a problem as the BBSHD has loads of torque, so it's easy to compensate for this.
The great thing is, you can change through lots of gears at one go and you don't need to think about changing gear when you stop, or making quick adjustments at a road junction. The best thing is, it's just so smooth when compared to a derailluer, and pretty much bullet proof.
In the last five years, I've knackered two Shimano Saint derailleurs, one got badly bent out of shape when the derailleur hanger broke and the other hitting a tree stump.
In first gear, you can climb literally any slope. You can also adjust this further by changing the cog on the Rohloff. I think you can fit anywhere between a 13T-21T cog.
You can see all the possible combinations using Sheldon Brown's calculator:
www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
I think it's the perfect combination for the BBSHD.
I've posted a video here:
th-cam.com/video/sWdZUZvqL_I/w-d-xo.html