Hey Nick. I’d add a couple items to your list. Engine: some of these 6.2’s have some clatter noise to them. That’s not normal, it’s early onset rod knock. Some people will say it’s lifter knock. It isn’t that either. It’s the bottom end falling apart. There’s a lot of hype around extended life filters and oil. They’re a lie. Trust me. Engine blocks aren’t cheap. I’d be looking at oil change history and if it includes a lot of extended life products pencil in a new block. Rear window: the defrost is notoriously unreliable and the exploding pane is a real problem in colder climates. I wouldn’t fuss over the bad ground defrost issue (you can cure it with electrical contact cleaner) but ensuring the rear actuator works helps prevent future frustration when it doesn’t work or gives you some negotiating power. It’s an easy fix you can do yourself. Shocks and springs. The exchange programs solve that issue pretty conveniently. You just return your cores to the TSW or Forged Off-road after you change them. Cameras: they show up as a software issue but it’s just a bad backup camera. Need a new camera and blue oval (usually in the tailgate). Easy Saturday fix. Running boards: again a cold climate problem. They peel. In Ontario they peel fast but anywhere there’s sand in use I’d take a look under the running boards. The undercoat is thin and once it starts peeling the top coat isn’t far behind. I used chemicals and mechanical methods to remove the spray (it was awful and tedious) and then Linex or Rhino will respray them for you. AC seats: they get dirty. Need to be vacuumed out. Just a couple things I’ve had go wrong with mine that prospective buyers might not notice doing a walk around or short test drive. Other than some self-inflicted wounds (like the extended oil gimmick) and the normal failures of having all those bells and whistles of cameras and comfort features these trucks are awesome. Joys to drive and still pretty fantastic to look at.
Greg thanks for the tremendous amount of info you included to add! I pinned your comment on this video so that people will see it first and hopefully gather some info from it. Appreciate the feedback and help!
you can rebuild the shocks as many times as needed, trust me i work as an aircraft mechanic and the struts on aircraft are usually just rebuilt. if done right and the outer body etc are in good shape just keep rebuilding. but to make things even easier buy the next set new and keep your old ones to rebuild. then you have a rotating set. Thats what I do. I have a 2010 6.2 with over 160k miles
Love my 2011, 3 years on and strong. Dealership replaced my shocks before purchase. Just little maintenance issues, around 75k-80k miles, the radiator hoses started leaking, and the radiator cracked on the top, I just replaced the cooling system and upgraded my breaks to ventilated rotors.. Limp mode came up in the second year of purchase, and Ford reprogrammed the transmission. No issues after that.. I use the sunroof all the time without issues, so enjoy your sunroof bro!! Best truck ever!!
My 2014 has 185,000 mi and change i do good maintenance i have had zero issues with the tranny and engine. I have rebuilt my front end and replaced 1 cv joint. Only issues are wear items. The truck has been awesome
For future knowledge, they only had sunroof problems with 2010-2012 models. They changed the entire sunroof in the 2013-2014’s and had no issues with the new sunroofs.
I guess it depends on your individual truck and where your truck resides. I also have a 2013 with a super cab with 162,000 miles in Phoenix and my sunroof works perfectly and always has.
Yeah just bought a 19 and the 3 break light was leaking easy fix luckily it rained day after I bought the truck got a velociraptor btw black on black no decals number 197
TSW shock rebuilds are only $700. Another$700 core charge for your old ones. Then you can get into upgrade add ons for additional fees but that $1800 must have included a core charge. The life of the shocks is rated at 50k under normal use.
When the previous owner did the rebuild through them, he opted in for additional upgrades for the rebuild. I want to say it was things as better seals, and some other options that kind of raised the price a bit but made it so that they would last longer. Thanks for checking it out !
Good video but some misinformation around the Texas Shock Works shock exchange program. They send you rebuilt shocks then you return your old shocks after you install the shocks they send you. I know this because I did the program. FYI - Shocks are holding up fine but it took much longer to receive my shocks compared to the initial estimate.
I sent my shocks to tsw, terrible decision, they didnt last 3k miles before they started riding like shit again, ended up buyn new ones on rockauto, rides like new
I have a 2012 Raptor currently got 178k miles on it. Only had it for a year so far(bought it a 151k miles, haven’t had any issues with the sunroof but the rear defrost button doesn’t work for me. Never heard of the rear window shatter
My rear window exploded 😂 I had the rear defrost on. I got the rear glass replaced with an upgraded resistor to keep the heat in check. My 2014 6 2 has 185,227 I just replaced the front end ball joints and tie rods cv joint pretty normal stuff. My tranny and engine are still strong
Yup my rear windshield exploded on a flat highway when i put the rear defroster on. I thought somehow shot at my rear window. Was clueless of this issue. Also the rear window can seize from opening and will stay open. Had to replace the top center window controls (easy fix). Bought my 2014 brand new and has 85k miles on it. Those are the only 2 issues ive had. Driven cross country from FL to CA 3 times and in Hawaii for 7 years. Love it.
Thank you for this brother. I just closed on a tan 2013 Roush Raptor with 16k miles. I bought it from a dealer online. Thank you for this check list! This will be my first Raptor
And that exactly how a gen 3 sounded when he blew by my gen 1! I was laughing and said that’s sounds like a 80s V6 Camaro. You might get better mpg and have less than 20 more HP! But you still sound like a parakeet flying by!!! Definitely don’t sound like a RAPTOR! And you have mass engine issues. I’ll take my 13mpg any day of the parakeet.
I've got a 14 Roush special edition just like yours. Bought it 3 years ago with 19k on the clock. I looked into that truck so much and never did see anyone having issues with the sunroof or rear defrost. I use the sunroof all the time. And I've actually got a bypass on my cameras that I can use them anytime. Double tap rear defrost to turn on the rear cam. So can't pull that fuse😅. Nice walk through though. Love the truck!
Thank you brother! Enjoy it and yeah just be careful with the sunroof! They seem to be hit or miss but definitely a good amount of people/trucks that ran into issues
Fuse 27 relocate is a must have. I didn't know this until my fuel pump stopped working, but later found out it's actually a fire hazard. Really simple fix and will save you frustration and potential fire hazard. Lately, I have had AC issues but this is pretty simple to diagnose and thinking about putting in the Potentiometer hack in the glove box to get some cooler air. I had shocks rebuilt at 80k which was WAAAAY too long but the rebuilt have some squeaking which kind of sucks. 2 of the cores could not be purchased since they were so worn out and destroyed, I would recommend every 50k and that is what I plan on in the future. Transmission needs to be flushed and it's a PITA to do DIY so dealership typically needs to do it. Headers need to be replaced since I have an exhaust leak, but that's pretty common with Ford trucks. Other than that... the truck is a freaking BEAST! I bought my 2014 CE in 2019 and put 60k on it. MANY trips towing my off grid trailer and many road trips with a lot of off-roading. Minimal issues and nothing major that I wouldn't expect really. Just an amazing truck and I plan on keeping mine to 300k. It can easily make it with proper maintenance.
I had a 2010. Got it home, wouldn't crank. After many days and a few thousand bucks later, it was the lead frame sensor. Ford ended up fixing it, but I had to get the dealer to cover it. I had bought it used from a non-Ford dealer. Ultimately, they covered it, but after a few other issues, I got rid of the truck for a Toyota Tacoma (which I have never had a single issue with).
Been thinking about looking at Raptors because my Ram is a huge POS. Glad i watched this to know what to look for. Whats insurance look like for these?
I drive a D3 Audi A8 and when he said the suspension was $1400 I teared up a little. Cause $1400 is what a single strut costs me without labor. And to get to my fuse box means taking apart my entire dash. I love my car, but I hate it at the same time.
I just found one 2013 with 122k miles for $17.5k. 7 owners had a previos accident nothing crazy air bags didn’t deployed. But still not sure if buy it because 7 owners is kinda scary 😬
The only reason I want an older Raptor is because I completely dislike the look of the new F150's, too boxy and too different looking. They dont look like Fords any more. I rememeber the first time I saw a newer model F150 I didn't even know it was an F150.
Complete Lies. Just say you don’t like the new look. Unless you’re an idiot it literally looks the same just different grille and a few different aerodynamics on the body lmfaoooo
I have 6.2 2014 ford raptor i used it for more than 7 years and it works perfect but the fuel pump have a lot of issues about the electricity it have the fuse also have the module the module issue was like a puzzle for me!
For 30k-40k you could get yourself a nice one! I’ve seen people in raptor groups post these trucks with 300,000+ miles! For the most part they’re rock solid engines
Not at all. At least for us here in the Midwest, surface rust is very common on the majority of our vehicles. As long as it’s just cosmetic surface rust, it’s no big deal
@@ralpc57 As long as it’s in pretty good condition I think that’s a fair price. The blue book value also matches up pretty well. Check for all the things I mentioned in this video, as well as rust
Looking at a 2011 Raptor with 77k. Dealer is asking 33 for it. It’s had two owners, but the second put 90% of the miles on it and from my understanding it was nearly all highway. Thoughts? What do y’all think my OTD price counter should be?
It’s hard to say without actually seeing the truck in person. But high 20’s to low 30’s seems like a good range for one that has that low of miles IF it’s a crew cab with the 4 full size doors. If it only has the two full size doors, it effects the value of these trucks quite a bit
If you plan on off-roading it somewhat aggressively, I would get a 2012 or newer. As the late 2011 and early 2012 builds have the reinforcement done on the rear frame. Which helps with and frame warp that he refers to in the beginning of this video.
Same ol story with Ford. Every time I see a Ford I think I'd like to buy I find this out about it, shocking! It's amazing what Ford lovers are willing to tolerate. I've owned a supercharged Toyota Tundra for 16 years and never had an issue. Just buy Toyota!
Ive owned 2. - the IWE system is sh*t. You WILL have IWE grinding issues if you go into 4x4 and work the truck hard. They are absolute garbage, even the new ones - the power steering system is prone to issues. The high pressure hose had a pin hole in it on both of my trucks, same place. - the torsen front diff is actually sh*t. They are okay on dirt but are absolutely useless in snow banks. In deep snow, they perform worse than an open diff and no im not meming
Hey Nick. I’d add a couple items to your list.
Engine: some of these 6.2’s have some clatter noise to them. That’s not normal, it’s early onset rod knock. Some people will say it’s lifter knock. It isn’t that either. It’s the bottom end falling apart. There’s a lot of hype around extended life filters and oil. They’re a lie. Trust me. Engine blocks aren’t cheap. I’d be looking at oil change history and if it includes a lot of extended life products pencil in a new block.
Rear window: the defrost is notoriously unreliable and the exploding pane is a real problem in colder climates. I wouldn’t fuss over the bad ground defrost issue (you can cure it with electrical contact cleaner) but ensuring the rear actuator works helps prevent future frustration when it doesn’t work or gives you some negotiating power. It’s an easy fix you can do yourself.
Shocks and springs. The exchange programs solve that issue pretty conveniently. You just return your cores to the TSW or Forged Off-road after you change them.
Cameras: they show up as a software issue but it’s just a bad backup camera. Need a new camera and blue oval (usually in the tailgate). Easy Saturday fix.
Running boards: again a cold climate problem. They peel. In Ontario they peel fast but anywhere there’s sand in use I’d take a look under the running boards. The undercoat is thin and once it starts peeling the top coat isn’t far behind. I used chemicals and mechanical methods to remove the spray (it was awful and tedious) and then Linex or Rhino will respray them for you.
AC seats: they get dirty. Need to be vacuumed out.
Just a couple things I’ve had go wrong with mine that prospective buyers might not notice doing a walk around or short test drive. Other than some self-inflicted wounds (like the extended oil gimmick) and the normal failures of having all those bells and whistles of cameras and comfort features these trucks are awesome. Joys to drive and still pretty fantastic to look at.
Greg thanks for the tremendous amount of info you included to add! I pinned your comment on this video so that people will see it first and hopefully gather some info from it. Appreciate the feedback and help!
@@GetThisNickreal men of genius here doing great collaboration 💪💪
And not the typical simple emoji reply!
you can rebuild the shocks as many times as needed, trust me i work as an aircraft mechanic and the struts on aircraft are usually just rebuilt. if done right and the outer body etc are in good shape just keep rebuilding. but to make things even easier buy the next set new and keep your old ones to rebuild. then you have a rotating set. Thats what I do. I have a 2010 6.2 with over 160k miles
Love my 2011, 3 years on and strong.
Dealership replaced my shocks before purchase.
Just little maintenance issues, around 75k-80k miles, the radiator hoses started leaking, and the radiator cracked on the top, I just replaced the cooling system and upgraded my breaks to ventilated rotors..
Limp mode came up in the second year of purchase, and Ford reprogrammed the transmission. No issues after that..
I use the sunroof all the time without issues, so enjoy your sunroof bro!!
Best truck ever!!
My 2014 has 185,000 mi and change i do good maintenance i have had zero issues with the tranny and engine. I have rebuilt my front end and replaced 1 cv joint. Only issues are wear items. The truck has been awesome
The 6.2 lasts a LONG time. They're great engines.
For future knowledge, they only had sunroof problems with 2010-2012 models. They changed the entire sunroof in the 2013-2014’s and had no issues with the new sunroofs.
Ive got a 2013 and my sunroof dont work, the plastic tracks have deteriorated
I guess it depends on your individual truck and where your truck resides. I also have a 2013 with a super cab with 162,000 miles in Phoenix and my sunroof works perfectly and always has.
@@BryanYellott look up the sunroof dr or sunroof guys. It’s one of them is right. You can buy a rebuild kit and fix that.
Thanks! Didn’t know that.
Yeah just bought a 19 and the 3 break light was leaking easy fix luckily it rained day after I bought the truck got a velociraptor btw black on black no decals number 197
TSW shock rebuilds are only $700. Another$700 core charge for your old ones. Then you can get into upgrade add ons for additional fees but that $1800 must have included a core charge. The life of the shocks is rated at 50k under normal use.
When the previous owner did the rebuild through them, he opted in for additional upgrades for the rebuild. I want to say it was things as better seals, and some other options that kind of raised the price a bit but made it so that they would last longer. Thanks for checking it out !
Tip about fuse 27 under the hood. My manual revealed a spare 20 Amp fuse on the inside box IN SLOT 27
Absolutely amazing advice 👏! I will take notes and think about all of this before I buy a Gen 1 raptor ..
thanks nick it was a great video and will be very helpful when buying my first truck
Good video but some misinformation around the Texas Shock Works shock exchange program. They send you rebuilt shocks then you return your old shocks after you install the shocks they send you. I know this because I did the program. FYI - Shocks are holding up fine but it took much longer to receive my shocks compared to the initial estimate.
I sent my shocks to tsw, terrible decision, they didnt last 3k miles before they started riding like shit again, ended up buyn new ones on rockauto, rides like new
I am looking into a 2013 raptor so this video is very informative
Great trucks brother good luck with your search
@@GetThisNick I found one with 82k miles they want 32k for it is it worth it what do you think?
My 2011 just rolled 228k miles, pulls like a freight train still.
Same dude 247,000 on my 2011 total beast!!
Miy 2012 has 184k miles and it starts and drives like a new truck.
Thank you really good info
No problem!
I have a 2012 Raptor currently got 178k miles on it. Only had it for a year so far(bought it a 151k miles, haven’t had any issues with the sunroof but the rear defrost button doesn’t work for me. Never heard of the rear window shatter
My rear window exploded 😂 I had the rear defrost on. I got the rear glass replaced with an upgraded resistor to keep the heat in check. My 2014 6 2 has 185,227 I just replaced the front end ball joints and tie rods cv joint pretty normal stuff. My tranny and engine are still strong
Yup my rear windshield exploded on a flat highway when i put the rear defroster on. I thought somehow shot at my rear window. Was clueless of this issue.
Also the rear window can seize from opening and will stay open. Had to replace the top center window controls (easy fix).
Bought my 2014 brand new and has 85k miles on it. Those are the only 2 issues ive had. Driven cross country from FL to CA 3 times and in Hawaii for 7 years. Love it.
Nephew nick beating up the streets in that raptor 😂
You already know 😂
Crazy price I got mine rebuilt at dvc shock services in San Dimas California for $120 each
Great video noticed one of these issues, sun roof inoperable, makes more sense what the guy was saying now.
Thank you for this brother. I just closed on a tan 2013 Roush Raptor with 16k miles. I bought it from a dealer online. Thank you for this check list! This will be my first Raptor
You’re welcome brother. Check the comments on this video for even more tips!
I’m in the market for one how much did you end up paying for your Roush Raptor 13k miles?
Thanks for the advice and the info I’m looking for a gen 1 let’s go bears!
This one is currently for sale if you’re interested! And yes bear down 🐻⬇️!
@@GetThisNickthe only raptor is the 6.2 liter 16 spark plug bad ass BOSS 6.2 litre!
80s Camaros suck!!
No V 6 wannabe
And that exactly how a gen 3 sounded when he blew by my gen 1! I was laughing and said that’s sounds like a 80s V6 Camaro. You might get better mpg and have less than 20 more HP! But you still sound like a parakeet flying by!!! Definitely don’t sound like a RAPTOR! And you have mass engine issues.
I’ll take my 13mpg any day of the parakeet.
Thank you for sharing this 🔥👍🏽
I've got a 14 Roush special edition just like yours. Bought it 3 years ago with 19k on the clock. I looked into that truck so much and never did see anyone having issues with the sunroof or rear defrost. I use the sunroof all the time. And I've actually got a bypass on my cameras that I can use them anytime. Double tap rear defrost to turn on the rear cam. So can't pull that fuse😅. Nice walk through though. Love the truck!
Thank you brother! Enjoy it and yeah just be careful with the sunroof! They seem to be hit or miss but definitely a good amount of people/trucks that ran into issues
Can you explain the camera bypass to use them anytime? Is it for front and rear cameras?
A real raptor!
Boss 6.2 is the only way to go!
Would like to know more about the bypass on the rear camera also. You have details or a link?
Greet vid, never heard of the sunroof or rear defrost
Definitely two big things to keep an eye on! Thanks for checking it out
Fuse 27 relocate is a must have. I didn't know this until my fuel pump stopped working, but later found out it's actually a fire hazard. Really simple fix and will save you frustration and potential fire hazard.
Lately, I have had AC issues but this is pretty simple to diagnose and thinking about putting in the Potentiometer hack in the glove box to get some cooler air.
I had shocks rebuilt at 80k which was WAAAAY too long but the rebuilt have some squeaking which kind of sucks. 2 of the cores could not be purchased since they were so worn out and destroyed, I would recommend every 50k and that is what I plan on in the future.
Transmission needs to be flushed and it's a PITA to do DIY so dealership typically needs to do it.
Headers need to be replaced since I have an exhaust leak, but that's pretty common with Ford trucks.
Other than that... the truck is a freaking BEAST! I bought my 2014 CE in 2019 and put 60k on it. MANY trips towing my off grid trailer and many road trips with a lot of off-roading. Minimal issues and nothing major that I wouldn't expect really. Just an amazing truck and I plan on keeping mine to 300k. It can easily make it with proper maintenance.
Hey guy, I took my Gen 1, had shocks rebuilt in 3hrs cost me $1000, had to drive 2hrs to get to shop, will try to find a closer shop next
I removed the fuse for my moon roof so it can’t be opened and they are also known to leak.
Great vid, thanks
I had a 2010. Got it home, wouldn't crank. After many days and a few thousand bucks later, it was the lead frame sensor. Ford ended up fixing it, but I had to get the dealer to cover it. I had bought it used from a non-Ford dealer. Ultimately, they covered it, but after a few other issues, I got rid of the truck for a Toyota Tacoma (which I have never had a single issue with).
You video is very knowledgeable thank you
No problem!
Been thinking about looking at Raptors because my Ram is a huge POS. Glad i watched this to know what to look for. Whats insurance look like for these?
I drive a D3 Audi A8 and when he said the suspension was $1400 I teared up a little. Cause $1400 is what a single strut costs me without labor. And to get to my fuse box means taking apart my entire dash. I love my car, but I hate it at the same time.
I just found one 2013 with 122k miles for $17.5k. 7 owners had a previos accident nothing crazy air bags didn’t deployed. But still not sure if buy it because 7 owners is kinda scary 😬
That price is tempting but I’d shop around a little more or maybe come up with a little bit more cash to try to find a cleaner one!
Found one for 32k with 112k miles on it. I’m thinking that’s a good. Price for a 2013
Just replaced the original battery in my 2012 F150 SVT with 27k miles!
The only reason I want an older Raptor is because I completely dislike the look of the new F150's, too boxy and too different looking. They dont look like Fords any more. I rememeber the first time I saw a newer model F150 I didn't even know it was an F150.
Complete Lies. Just say you don’t like the new look. Unless you’re an idiot it literally looks the same just different grille and a few different aerodynamics on the body lmfaoooo
I have 6.2 2014 ford raptor i used it for more than 7 years and it works perfect but the fuel pump have a lot of issues about the electricity it have the fuse also have the module the module issue was like a puzzle for me!
I want to buy one. Now I currently own 2 f150 2013s. I love that it has a v8 6.2.
For 30k-40k you could get yourself a nice one! I’ve seen people in raptor groups post these trucks with 300,000+ miles! For the most part they’re rock solid engines
@@GetThisNick I'm currently looking for one. It needs to be a 2014 .Thanks
This one in the video is for sale! If it’s something you’re interested in. You could email me at getthisnick@gmail.com
@@GetThisNick man interesting. I'll hire you up
I'll hit you up tomorrow bro. I'm about to go work. I'll email you tomorrow for sure. Take care bro
Thank you!
You’re welcome !
Also sync 2 screen will go out eventually
Rust is an issue on all f150s with this general body style
Rear defrost is too powerful and the temp difference with glass shatters the glass.
I never had issues with the sunroof, or rear defrost Lord’s Will!
Keep an eye out!
Do you think rust on the rear diff and leaf springs is a big deal or concerning?
Not at all. At least for us here in the Midwest, surface rust is very common on the majority of our vehicles. As long as it’s just cosmetic surface rust, it’s no big deal
@@GetThisNickgood way to determine just surface rust?
How much did u pay for it
Sounds like all those people out there raptor through hell and then complained yeah this happened
bad ass truck !
Yo Nick what wheel set up?
What you think about a 2010 for 17995 140 thousand miles ?
What trim level? What engine?
6.2 super cab gen 1
@@ralpc57 As long as it’s in pretty good condition I think that’s a fair price. The blue book value also matches up pretty well. Check for all the things I mentioned in this video, as well as rust
@@GetThisNick love bra I appreciate that .. what forums are you in
I think I saw that same to door model in Chicago. It’s sold.
Is this truck in Louisvill ky now?
Shocks are so cheap on the SVT I was relieved when I saw the price - Depressed Mercedes Benz Driver
Beautiful truck, still for sale?
I have the supercharged 5.4l from Hennessy so idc what ppl say about the 5.4 lol
Do you wish you had a newer one or a 6.2 over the 5.4?
@@garethwalker847 I like the 5.4 cause it’s supercharged. Now I’m sure if it weren’t I’d want the 6.2.
04-06 were the problem years for the 5.4 07 up are reliable
Wheel and tire set up?
Looking at a 2011 Raptor with 77k. Dealer is asking 33 for it. It’s had two owners, but the second put 90% of the miles on it and from my understanding it was nearly all highway. Thoughts? What do y’all think my OTD price counter should be?
It’s hard to say without actually seeing the truck in person. But high 20’s to low 30’s seems like a good range for one that has that low of miles IF it’s a crew cab with the 4 full size doors. If it only has the two full size doors, it effects the value of these trucks quite a bit
If you plan on off-roading it somewhat aggressively, I would get a 2012 or newer. As the late 2011 and early 2012 builds have the reinforcement done on the rear frame. Which helps with and frame warp that he refers to in the beginning of this video.
I'm looking at a gen 1 as well. Low 30s is what I'm running into for a 14 with that kind of mileage. Plus what the gentleman above said.
@@Jsebas289 This one is currently listed at 36
@@GetThisNickI paid 40K for mine in 2022
All I see the whole video was your face I was trying to see the truck you were reviewing
Hold up I thought you were Pat McAfee 😅
Nick I’m curious 🧐 if you are auto mechanic or not ? Lol
No I am not I just did a lot of research on these trucks before I purchased lol 😂
PP inspection
Same ol story with Ford. Every time I see a Ford I think I'd like to buy I find this out about it, shocking! It's amazing what Ford lovers are willing to tolerate. I've owned a supercharged Toyota Tundra for 16 years and never had an issue. Just buy Toyota!
bro said dont buy a raptor
2020 Ram 1500 limited, gtfo.
Your an id out
Ive owned 2.
- the IWE system is sh*t. You WILL have IWE grinding issues if you go into 4x4 and work the truck hard. They are absolute garbage, even the new ones
- the power steering system is prone to issues. The high pressure hose had a pin hole in it on both of my trucks, same place.
- the torsen front diff is actually sh*t. They are okay on dirt but are absolutely useless in snow banks. In deep snow, they perform worse than an open diff and no im not meming