metering diaphragm side of carb "referencing to that oval grommet that fits into air filter originally" is vented to atmosphere, try venting it to boost side of turbo so it can even out pressure inside of carb. meaning if there was 2 pounds of boost inside of carb venturi it will not allow proper fuel metering unless the same pressure is on top of that diaphragm pushing down compensating the differences. thats why stihl vents in to inside of air filter, as filter gets plugged it creates same atmospheric pressure on both sides of metering diaphragm so it maintains the same air fuel mixture, they call it a compensator.
@Sawmods yes I have seen this project before you have to go backwards to go forwards with the higher pressure the turbo is putting into the system I also think going to methenol would be better too with a turbo saw
You have to remember that you’re not going to be able to give it more boost than the seals can handle. You’re going to need to come up with an air filter mount setup if you can get the gremlins under control.
Yes, for sure on the crank seals. Not worried about the flywheel side so much as that seal is very small, but on the PTO side for sure gonna keep an eye on that.
One of the other things you’re fighting is case volume. And the factory carbs are too small. Check out Rocky Mountain chainsaws turbo saw. We learned a 880 or 3120 might work better
It would be interesting to know if you need more fuel pressure. Isn’t part of the problem with reeds that it’ll hold you back from 10,000 plus rpm’s? Or are you not worried about reed flutter? Anyways great progress! Keep going you’ll get er.
K so one thing i may have missed in the last few videos and this is all hypothetical never trying to turbona chain saw and have been informed not to bother but im glad someone else is trying, do you see your waste gate moving at all? Tried zooming into the wastegate and can't see it move. Some issues you MIGHT be experincing if the waste gate isnt functioning properly all exhaust gases are constantly spinning the turbo also by product of small displacement motor could be seeing a miniscle amount of positve charge over and above normal air pressure and exhaust pressure vs input charge could be fighting one another without having a functional waste gate coming to idle im surprised it doesn't nrun worst without being able to bleed the intake pressure off when off the throttle. Try but i wouldn't go hotter plug been alot of years since I messed force induction though maybe im the village idiot but i recall you want a colder plug for boosted applicatios, but you may find some positive movement by changing plug gap common in the auto world. Other issue way i understood is with a single slammer vs a double or triple cylinder is your fighting a 2 way problem with pushing and pulling of the exhaust gases and i wonder if that is part of the reason why a double and triple work with a turbo. Something to consider in the old school auto workd is boosted carb vehicles use a blow through design carb rather then a traditional. So mant factors my head is just spinning 😂 other thing to understand is also the ar ratios between compressor and turbine sides. Could be not enougg on exhaust side and too much on the compressor side. Also need to retard timing but issue is with these is you have to set and leave . Again this is going to be a wild ride
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Keep the comments coming guys I appreciate it. Again this is all new territory so I am open to any suggestions.
Fantastic work props for your experiment
Baby steps. Progress is progress. You don’t know until you try.
Amen to that brother!
metering diaphragm side of carb "referencing to that oval grommet that fits into air filter originally" is vented to atmosphere, try venting it to boost side of turbo so it can even out pressure inside of carb. meaning if there was 2 pounds of boost inside of carb venturi it will not allow proper fuel metering unless the same pressure is on top of that diaphragm pushing down compensating the differences. thats why stihl vents in to inside of air filter, as filter gets plugged it creates same atmospheric pressure on both sides of metering diaphragm so it maintains the same air fuel mixture, they call it a compensator.
That definitely makes sense. I like that idea and will give that a try.
Bigger carb 090 or 070 and timming - 5 degrees
Lowering the timing helped.
@Sawmods yes I have seen this project before you have to go backwards to go forwards with the higher pressure the turbo is putting into the system I also think going to methenol would be better too with a turbo saw
Side gap your spark plug too
You have to remember that you’re not going to be able to give it more boost than the seals can handle.
You’re going to need to come up with an air filter mount setup if you can get the gremlins under control.
Yes, for sure on the crank seals. Not worried about the flywheel side so much as that seal is very small, but on the PTO side for sure gonna keep an eye on that.
@@Sawmods But have you got any plans for the air filter once you get the other issues handled?
@@ToddAdams1234 yes I was going to use the two bolt flange at the turbo inlet and make a simple adapter for a uni foam filter.
@@Sawmods Good man. 🫡
One of the other things you’re fighting is case volume. And the factory carbs are too small. Check out Rocky Mountain chainsaws turbo saw. We learned a 880 or 3120 might work better
It would be interesting to know if you need more fuel pressure. Isn’t part of the problem with reeds that it’ll hold you back from 10,000 plus rpm’s? Or are you not worried about reed flutter? Anyways great progress! Keep going you’ll get er.
I have ran a couple Reed saws that spin pretty high RPM. I think it’s the vintage reed saws that don’t turn very high.
Ok don't know if this has been covered but why not put the carb on turbo inlet side and make it a suck thru vers a blow thru?
It's running out of fuel sounds like. Did you bend the metering lever so it let's more fuel in?
It may need an efi like the ms 500i
I was thinking the exact same thing. I’m gonna keep my eye out for a blown up one.
I’m thinking the same thing and maybe a bigger turbo.
K so one thing i may have missed in the last few videos and this is all hypothetical never trying to turbona chain saw and have been informed not to bother but im glad someone else is trying, do you see your waste gate moving at all? Tried zooming into the wastegate and can't see it move. Some issues you MIGHT be experincing if the waste gate isnt functioning properly all exhaust gases are constantly spinning the turbo also by product of small displacement motor could be seeing a miniscle amount of positve charge over and above normal air pressure and exhaust pressure vs input charge could be fighting one another without having a functional waste gate coming to idle im surprised it doesn't nrun worst without being able to bleed the intake pressure off when off the throttle. Try but i wouldn't go hotter plug been alot of years since I messed force induction though maybe im the village idiot but i recall you want a colder plug for boosted applicatios, but you may find some positive movement by changing plug gap common in the auto world. Other issue way i understood is with a single slammer vs a double or triple cylinder is your fighting a 2 way problem with pushing and pulling of the exhaust gases and i wonder if that is part of the reason why a double and triple work with a turbo. Something to consider in the old school auto workd is boosted carb vehicles use a blow through design carb rather then a traditional. So mant factors my head is just spinning 😂 other thing to understand is also the ar ratios between compressor and turbine sides. Could be not enougg on exhaust side and too much on the compressor side. Also need to retard timing but issue is with these is you have to set and leave . Again this is going to be a wild ride