Shop Drawings with Material list available NOW. Thanks so much for watching and all the support: www.etsy.com/listing/1636523395/mobile-storage-system-pdf-shop-drawings
List of Materials for those asking. Wood Supply List: 4x4: 8 pieces 2x4: 9 pieces 2x3: 11 pieces Screws List: 6in Headlock Screws: 36 2-1/2in Screws: 30 Casters: Set of 4 with 16 screws
I built something similar for my garage years ago (I think one of the woodworking/handyman magazines featured something like it in one issue). It's wonderfully soul-satisfying for about a month. Then you discover the bins are too big for most things - stuff gets dumped in them and then never comes back out. It's too hard to find things when the size of the container dwarves the size of the things you put in them. You'll want a bunch more smaller bins along with a few larger ones (for larger tools, gallon jugs of resin, etc). I also switched to clear bins so I could see what was in the bin easier. If it's out of sight, it's out of mind and it effectively doesn't exist. It's much easier if you can see where things are and clear bins help with that. BTW, 71.5cm = 715mm which is a directly readable measurement on your tape vs trying to estimate. One thing you can leave behind you when using metric over imperial is the need for fractions. A mm is small enough that it's easy to deal with just mm and not fractions of a mm or cm. I still use both but like using metric when building things because I can ignore fractions.
I would think this is more for storage of of holiday and seldom used garage or household items. Most organizers recommend taking photographs of the contents, print and post on the outside of the bin….especially for long term storage.
@@karenfrank8514good idea about putting a picture on the box.. I’m going to build one for our house. I envision putting seasonal cloths in the bins. Jeans / sweatshirts ext
Thank you for this video and the plans - Last 2 weekends I have been working on this, and it's almost done. My first major wood working project, and it has not blown up yet! Progress!
Milled the lumber for this at my mill yesterday, built it today. I’m impatient so I used 5” castors from Harbor Freight and they seem to be working good. Only thing I changed was I left the bottom gap about 19” so I can fit larger totes on the bottom and did two 2x4’s across so they slide in. I also added a 3/4” piece of plywood on top so that I can stack on top. I have 14’ ceilings in my shop. I did full dimension 4x4’s since I milled the lumber myself. Other than that your dimensions were spot on!
I am so glad this DIY project so up on my Facebook feed. I have been looking to build something similar to this for my garage. I currently have multiple storage bins in my "crawl space" underneath my house and I have to lug those bins up and down three flights of stairs every time we need to access them. This would save me a lot of time and energy if I could add this to my garage. In your video, you mentioned that you might have plans for this project. I was wondering if you have them available in standard measurements or metric. Please let me know if they are available and how I might get a set. Great build and I love that they are mobile. Thanks, Marc
Thank you for sharing this amazing diy garage storage unit, I been spending quite of few hours and days organizing my garage lately and something like this would make my husband’s life and mine better. 👏
Hello from Aotearoa New Zealand, Excellent compact storage idea. I am old enough to have grown up with Imperial measurement of feet and inches but my working life has been in Metric. I think you have missed out on the advantage of the metric system by using centimetres as the unit measure. Here, we use millimetres (mm) for length less than about 3 metres (3M) rather than using centimetres. This mm/M use rather than cm is in construction and engineering. By using millimetres you get all the advantages of the Metric system which is simplicity and coherence. For the timber you used we would refer thus: 100x100 for the base and 100x50 for the rest. I noted you referred to your 4x4s as approximately 90cms ... if you had used mm/M you wouldn't say 'approximately. While your timber is nominally 100x100 it is gauged by the manufacturer at 97x97mm. Likewise, the 4x2s are nominally 100x50 and are gauged to be 97x47. Your overall height was 2440mm and so you cut the verticals at 2M or 2000mm. Our standard ceiling height is 2710mm ( 2.710M) with the 10mm being for drywall thickness. Clear as mud? Regards Phil.
Actually our "4x4"s (nominally 4inches by 4inches) have an actual measurement 3-1/4 to 3-1/2 inch in each dimension, or 80-90mm. As they are not typically used for construction lumber, the dimensions are not held to tight tolerance. Similar with the 2x4 but those are common construction lumber so kept very close to 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches or about 38x90mm 😉.
I think metric vs sae is mostly which you're comfortable with. You can absolutely get just as accurate with either system. As for the rolling shelves, be careful as most garage floors are sloped for drainage, so it could have issues. I've been considering building a base to essentially do this to the metal HD shelves I have, but I'll probably add in leveling legs for once I get them in position.
Careful trying to roll those metal shelves - some of them the legs are not really held together well enough by the shelf rails. Leveling legs sounds like a more trustworthy choice.
I built a similar one, a little taller though, but without wheels and bins, about 5/6 years ago. Added wheels later by lifting them up ever so slowly using car jacks! It is still working/standing and mobile. Time to modify....
Great build! I was especially pleased to see you did not build fully decked shelves to hold your totes. Amazing how many people waste material that way. Do you know of a source for casters on Ell brackets or Ell brackets on which to mount casters? I'd like the casters to be on the side of the storage unit instead of on the bottom. this would hold the storage until about 3 inches lower than yours, which would allow it to clear my ceiling without making it shorter by a full row of totes. This is something like is done for a tool mobile base. Bonus points if the caster can be lifted up to let the storage down firm onto the floor... but that may not be practical for the weight.
A couple of story sticks used to layout your heights equally would have made the repetitive installation go alot faster for you...just for future projects (or those watching this who decide to build their own). 😊
I think Im going to make 4 of these but smaller, 2 bins by 2 bins. They'll be work stations for things like my bench grinder, planer, desktop drill press, ect.
Nice build. I use metric for small technical builds. Typically anything that involves 3D printed or metal parts seeing as they are typically metric. (Forget that 1000th inch BS) Sadly I'm too old to totally do away with standard. Love the saw. I have the 120V battery version (dual 60v batteries). Thinking about picking up the 20v version for my handyman gigs. The 4x4s in your build is pure overkill. They can support something like 10K pounds each. Bonus in case your garage roof ever collapses.
Rookie question. When you have to adjust for square when measuring corner-to-corner, how do you do that? How would you hold the frame in place to resist the whole plane rotating?
Great question. When im doing any framing and checking for square i use a framing hammer to hit the long corner towards the short corner. I live in Scotland so work in metric. Say I have my diagonals at 1850mm and the other at 1830 I will give it a decent whack. Measure both diagonals after each whack to check for square. Something to keep in mind is if one is long at 1850 your not trying to get that measurement to 1830. As this will mean you've only shifted the error from one side to the other. So in theory, knock your long corner towards your short corner. Measure both diagonals again, and keep doing this until they match. Hope this helps👍
You basically need to secure the opposite corner than you need to adjust, but always try to orient as adjusting "in" as in towards the project. Say you want to move the top right corner in just a little bit, then you would hold the bottom left corner in place as a pivot point.
I bought your plans and the same black and yellow bins from costco and sams club are 20 1/4 inch wide and your plans call for 19 1/4 gaps. Figured this out 6 hours into the build currently taking everything apart
Thank you for using metric. I often buy some useful parts from the US, but in some cases have to rethread everything. PS: I often swap out British sizes as well as they are inconvenient, even in brexitland!
That's really sleek!! I just hope your 4x4 lumber is more stable than the stuff I got! I have a lovely 4' x 8' workbench in the garage that slowly turned into a pretzel over the last three years. :( As for Metric vs. Imperial, I think for a lot of people, it's all about what's familiar. I grew up in America, but my parents are Canadian, so I can function in both systems, but I definitely notice myself stopping to think or double-check stuff more often when working in Metric. :) Thanks so much for another awesome video!
If I notice the lumber bending or malfunctioning I'll make sure my audience knows. Thanks so much for the insight about yourself as well. Very interesting to hear.
Laminating multiple pieces of lumber together for a work bench is better than using a single piece. Never use pressure treated wood for things like this. That stuff will always warp.
Wait, hold up, as a South African I could not help but notice the last track by Mama Miriam Makeba at the end of the video. Awesome build dude. I will be building the exact same storage unit and funny enough, I have already ordered 20 storage containers. So I won’t have to change anything.
There is a really good reason they don't put wheels on tall narrow cabinets. You hit one little piece of anything on the floor while it's moving sideways and the whole thing is going over. Anyone who ever rode a skateboard understands this.
That is very funny that you mention the metric tape. I have been wanting to convert to metric for years but can’t find all the measuring devices i use in metric
First time I've seen you use a stop block for those repeatable cuts!! I'm proud of you 😉 Also, not sure the mobile feature is necessary. Love the capacity of the structure though.
IMO, the 2×3 cleats for the bins are over kill. Unless there is an enormous need for weight distribution, 1×3 cleats would be more than sufficient especially since you only used 2 screws per cleat. I would also suggest that 4×4's are only necessary for the base; 2×4's support a hugh amount of verticle weight. Remember to pre-drill screw holes if splitting is a concern. For an experiment, about 10 years ago, I built a shelf to hold liquid cleaning supplies out of 1×2's for the skeleton and 1/2inch plywood shelves. Pre-drilled/countersunk and screwed together with actual wood screws, not drywall screws, It is anchored to the wall and holds about 320kg (700lbs-ish). I tested it with water-filled jugs before I put cleaning supplies on it. Zero problems after a decade. However, I would not recommend such light construction for high-traffic areas especially if there are rambunctios children running around. Cheers.
I’ve seen people make basically this with 2x4s for everything and they were pretty wobbly so they either anchored it to the wall or used plywood on the back so I’d assume it’s for stability rather than holding the weight
great work as always mate! well done! would love to have access to the metric plans if you would be so generous! many thanks agains. mike from barcelona
Hello my dearest, I found quite useful (in my garage's workbench) to previously drill holes when installing screws on thin lumber. It's a longer and tedious work but it helped me to have also a nice and smooth finish (I used pine instead of fir, I think harder lumber are more prone to crack)
Hey man this is an awesome storage idea. Is there any chance on getting a copy of the plans so I can build one. Thanks in advance for your ideas and help. Ray
Get yourself a 5 or 6 tier wire shelf. Not as big but works great for smaller totes or crates plus the casters are rated for 500 pounds load while moving.
These boxes are strong. I've had great results simply stacking these on top of eachother, with a mover's dolly under each column of boxes. Cheaper, easier, faster, and more modular.
But one of his stated requirements was to be able to pull out any box, and he intentionally positioned the rails to hold each box off the one below it. I've been doing the stacks (not on the dollies though, that's a good idea!) and am considering a rolling rack like these. Actually a few racks... could be quite a system!
I see you are doing the same dust collection that I do at the moment (still building out my shop VERY slowly as I am also renovating my house VERY slowly!) My son gives me crap about it every time "Hey dad, I need to grab a screwdriver from the fire trap, er, garage..."
Nice build. I find using metric measurements is easier because fractions can entirely be avoided. The harder part is visualizing in metric. I can easily call up 5' or 6" mentally, but 1500mm or 150mm. Plus, boards and sheet goods, and standard construction measurements are not metric in the US. It's easy to think about 16" centers or 4' x 8' sheets, but not so much 40.64cm centers or 121.92 x 243.84cm sheets.
Mixing Metric and Imperial constantly just feels like designing PCBs. If you've done any PCB design and manufacturing you would know. Thankfully lately there seems to be a slow departure from mils (imperial), but the Empire still holds strong.
Thank you for sharing! Built it and love it! Thanks for the plans! I would share the pictures of the projects but saved a ton of space in my garage! On to the next project!
2:27 Re: learn new skillset Best measurement or scale for al builds is the millimeter - all can be measured wit that singe unit, and decimals will always be avoided. A house is about 18000 mm long, and plywood is about 12mmx2400x1200 - mm works for everything. FastCap sells tapes for measurements in pure millimeters.
I just purchased your plans - thanks. I am wondering why the plans show a larger space at the first row but on your video all of the rows appear to be equidistant?
Have you designed it so the bins are horizontal? I haven’t seen a design like that done. I would love to save the inches on it sticking out in the garage.
50.5 was way to tight for the same bins from Home Depot Canada, even tho they say their the same bins. I think I’m going to switch the sides for 2x4 instead of 4x4.
Hope those building this have the materials laying around. Metal shelving solutions from the places which sell these storage totes are less expensive and stronger. 🤔
I modified metal shelves the one used in kitchens etc by securing them on moving dollys.Its not as customized like the one feature here but for my storage I find them very useful for a small space.
So I ordered the plans a while ago. I would use the imperal measurements. I just need to know which plans go with which totes. One size is for Home Depot Totes the other is other totes from Lowes/Costco/etc. So are the ones with a width of 94 1/2, 20 3/4 and then 17 3/4 for the Home Depot totes? I doesn't specify on the plans which is which. I want to use the bigger totes.
Do you think if I add 1-2 more rows it would be stable. Or should I add 1-2 more columns? I realize this will require longer 4x4s and 2x4s (cap plate).
I would suggest that most people should use smaller bins - the boxes you used get very heavy very fast and are a hassle and potential danger for a lot of people to put in and take off from the shelves.
Hey would you be able to draw up the dimensions for a mobile tote storage 3-rows high and 6-wide to hold 18 totes as I would like to use the top of storage as a work bench
Shop Drawings with Material list available NOW. Thanks so much for watching and all the support: www.etsy.com/listing/1636523395/mobile-storage-system-pdf-shop-drawings
When I built my large shop I added wheels to everything I could. Makes life easier. Good way to go!!
List of Materials for those asking.
Wood Supply List:
4x4: 8 pieces
2x4: 9 pieces
2x3: 11 pieces
Screws List:
6in Headlock Screws: 36
2-1/2in Screws: 30
Casters: Set of 4 with 16 screws
Do you not predrill your screws?
That’s nothing to do with his material list. Your pre-drilling comes as your tools. Drill bit. Always pre-drill or have splits.
😊@@joshuageorge7758
I built something similar for my garage years ago (I think one of the woodworking/handyman magazines featured something like it in one issue). It's wonderfully soul-satisfying for about a month. Then you discover the bins are too big for most things - stuff gets dumped in them and then never comes back out. It's too hard to find things when the size of the container dwarves the size of the things you put in them. You'll want a bunch more smaller bins along with a few larger ones (for larger tools, gallon jugs of resin, etc). I also switched to clear bins so I could see what was in the bin easier. If it's out of sight, it's out of mind and it effectively doesn't exist. It's much easier if you can see where things are and clear bins help with that.
BTW, 71.5cm = 715mm which is a directly readable measurement on your tape vs trying to estimate. One thing you can leave behind you when using metric over imperial is the need for fractions. A mm is small enough that it's easy to deal with just mm and not fractions of a mm or cm. I still use both but like using metric when building things because I can ignore fractions.
I would think this is more for storage of of holiday and seldom used garage or household items. Most organizers recommend taking photographs of the contents, print and post on the outside of the bin….especially for long term storage.
Good tips!
@@karenfrank8514good idea about putting a picture on the box.. I’m going to build one for our house. I envision putting seasonal cloths in the bins. Jeans / sweatshirts ext
Yes. I'd rather pay more for durable but shallower bin. I'm not going to label anything.
Thank you for this video and the plans - Last 2 weekends I have been working on this, and it's almost done. My first major wood working project, and it has not blown up yet! Progress!
Milled the lumber for this at my mill yesterday, built it today. I’m impatient so I used 5” castors from Harbor Freight and they seem to be working good. Only thing I changed was I left the bottom gap about 19” so I can fit larger totes on the bottom and did two 2x4’s across so they slide in. I also added a 3/4” piece of plywood on top so that I can stack on top. I have 14’ ceilings in my shop. I did full dimension 4x4’s since I milled the lumber myself. Other than that your dimensions were spot on!
Plans would be really helpful! Especially for the interior spacing in case we need to go bigger or smaller than what you made, thanks!
I am so glad this DIY project so up on my Facebook feed. I have been looking to build something similar to this for my garage. I currently have multiple storage bins in my "crawl space" underneath my house and I have to lug those bins up and down three flights of stairs every time we need to access them. This would save me a lot of time and energy if I could add this to my garage. In your video, you mentioned that you might have plans for this project. I was wondering if you have them available in standard measurements or metric. Please let me know if they are available and how I might get a set.
Great build and I love that they are mobile.
Thanks,
Marc
Greetings from South Africa 🇿🇦. Well done on your attempt to use Metric. Amazing storage build. Turned out great. Love the idea of it being mobile 👍
Thank you for sharing this amazing diy garage storage unit, I been spending quite of few hours and days organizing my garage lately and something like this would make my husband’s life and mine better. 👏
Turned out great. I wish we could just get rid of junk, but we honestly don’t do this is a great solution
Hello from Aotearoa New Zealand, Excellent compact storage idea. I am old enough to have grown up with Imperial measurement of feet and inches but my working life has been in Metric. I think you have missed out on the advantage of the metric system by using centimetres as the unit measure. Here, we use millimetres (mm) for length less than about 3 metres (3M) rather than using centimetres. This mm/M use rather than cm is in construction and engineering. By using millimetres you get all the advantages of the Metric system which is simplicity and coherence. For the timber you used we would refer thus: 100x100 for the base and 100x50 for the rest. I noted you referred to your 4x4s as approximately 90cms ... if you had used mm/M you wouldn't say 'approximately. While your timber is nominally 100x100 it is gauged by the manufacturer at 97x97mm. Likewise, the 4x2s are nominally 100x50 and are gauged to be 97x47. Your overall height was 2440mm and so you cut the verticals at 2M or 2000mm. Our standard ceiling height is 2710mm ( 2.710M) with the 10mm being for drywall thickness. Clear as mud? Regards Phil.
Actually our "4x4"s (nominally 4inches by 4inches) have an actual measurement 3-1/4 to 3-1/2 inch in each dimension, or 80-90mm. As they are not typically used for construction lumber, the dimensions are not held to tight tolerance. Similar with the 2x4 but those are common construction lumber so kept very close to 1-1/2 x 3-1/2 inches or about 38x90mm 😉.
Perfect timing. I was planning this exact project for my shed
Looking forward to the MrCool install should save some space around the shop.
I think metric vs sae is mostly which you're comfortable with. You can absolutely get just as accurate with either system.
As for the rolling shelves, be careful as most garage floors are sloped for drainage, so it could have issues. I've been considering building a base to essentially do this to the metal HD shelves I have, but I'll probably add in leveling legs for once I get them in position.
Careful trying to roll those metal shelves - some of them the legs are not really held together well enough by the shelf rails. Leveling legs sounds like a more trustworthy choice.
How odd that I am doing this exact thing with the same totes... you saved me some time with my measurements!
LOL! LOVE that. Thanks for sharing and glad it helped.
Yes I would love to see some plans for this build
Doing a series of these on tracks would be really cool as you wouldn't need a walk way between shelves.
I would love a build plan and supply list for this project.
Just a friendly tip from the metric world we don't measure in centimetres when building, we use Millimetres.
I only use decameters and decimeters.
So for example if it is 40cm exactly do you still measure it in your brain as 400mm? Obviously, using this for the first time so would love to know.
@@BYOToolsyeah that's correct 400 mils
At least the conversion is easy…
@@riotgear6891 In the U.S., typically a "mil" is 1/1000 of an inch :) (not used with lumber, but common in machining, plastic film, etc.)
I built a similar one, a little taller though, but without wheels and bins, about 5/6 years ago. Added wheels later by lifting them up ever so slowly using car jacks! It is still working/standing and mobile. Time to modify....
Love it!!! So smart! What are the final dimensions? Just to be sure I have the space before I start building :)
Great build! I was especially pleased to see you did not build fully decked shelves to hold your totes. Amazing how many people waste material that way.
Do you know of a source for casters on Ell brackets or Ell brackets on which to mount casters? I'd like the casters to be on the side of the storage unit instead of on the bottom. this would hold the storage until about 3 inches lower than yours, which would allow it to clear my ceiling without making it shorter by a full row of totes. This is something like is done for a tool mobile base. Bonus points if the caster can be lifted up to let the storage down firm onto the floor... but that may not be practical for the weight.
A couple of story sticks used to layout your heights equally would have made the repetitive installation go alot faster for you...just for future projects (or those watching this who decide to build their own). 😊
I think Im going to make 4 of these but smaller, 2 bins by 2 bins. They'll be work stations for things like my bench grinder, planer, desktop drill press, ect.
Nice build.
I use metric for small technical builds. Typically anything that involves 3D printed or metal parts seeing as they are typically metric. (Forget that 1000th inch BS) Sadly I'm too old to totally do away with standard.
Love the saw. I have the 120V battery version (dual 60v batteries). Thinking about picking up the 20v version for my handyman gigs.
The 4x4s in your build is pure overkill. They can support something like 10K pounds each. Bonus in case your garage roof ever collapses.
Rookie question. When you have to adjust for square when measuring corner-to-corner, how do you do that? How would you hold the frame in place to resist the whole plane rotating?
Great question. When im doing any framing and checking for square i use a framing hammer to hit the long corner towards the short corner. I live in Scotland so work in metric. Say I have my diagonals at 1850mm and the other at 1830 I will give it a decent whack. Measure both diagonals after each whack to check for square. Something to keep in mind is if one is long at 1850 your not trying to get that measurement to 1830. As this will mean you've only shifted the error from one side to the other. So in theory, knock your long corner towards your short corner. Measure both diagonals again, and keep doing this until they match. Hope this helps👍
You basically need to secure the opposite corner than you need to adjust, but always try to orient as adjusting "in" as in towards the project. Say you want to move the top right corner in just a little bit, then you would hold the bottom left corner in place as a pivot point.
Thanks. Sounds like a good frustration eliminator. LOL @@piratebash368
I bought your plans and the same black and yellow bins from costco and sams club are 20 1/4 inch wide and your plans call for 19 1/4 gaps. Figured this out 6 hours into the build currently taking everything apart
I drew this up on sketchup to accommodate the same issue. How did yours turn out?
Thank you for using metric. I often buy some useful parts from the US, but in some cases have to rethread everything.
PS: I often swap out British sizes as well as they are inconvenient, even in brexitland!
That's really sleek!! I just hope your 4x4 lumber is more stable than the stuff I got! I have a lovely 4' x 8' workbench in the garage that slowly turned into a pretzel over the last three years. :(
As for Metric vs. Imperial, I think for a lot of people, it's all about what's familiar. I grew up in America, but my parents are Canadian, so I can function in both systems, but I definitely notice myself stopping to think or double-check stuff more often when working in Metric. :)
Thanks so much for another awesome video!
If I notice the lumber bending or malfunctioning I'll make sure my audience knows. Thanks so much for the insight about yourself as well. Very interesting to hear.
would something like this create stability? th-cam.com/video/L3dg86-YFqo/w-d-xo.html@@BYOTools
Laminating multiple pieces of lumber together for a work bench is better than using a single piece. Never use pressure treated wood for things like this. That stuff will always warp.
Wait, hold up, as a South African I could not help but notice the last track by Mama Miriam Makeba at the end of the video. Awesome build dude. I will be building the exact same storage unit and funny enough, I have already ordered 20 storage containers. So I won’t have to change anything.
Great idea, they should ALL be mobile you're on to a GREAT idea. Never seen one like this.
There is a really good reason they don't put wheels on tall narrow cabinets. You hit one little piece of anything on the floor while it's moving sideways and the whole thing is going over. Anyone who ever rode a skateboard understands this.
That is very funny that you mention the metric tape. I have been wanting to convert to metric for years but can’t find all the measuring devices i use in metric
First time I've seen you use a stop block for those repeatable cuts!! I'm proud of you 😉
Also, not sure the mobile feature is necessary. Love the capacity of the structure though.
its about damn time, right?! haha! Makes life so much easier. Casters will make more sense in a future video so stay tuned and thanks for watching.
@@BYOTools always do!
@@BYOToolsid love to see if i can get the dimensions you used for it to out together a material list
IMO, the 2×3 cleats for the bins are over kill. Unless there is an enormous need for weight distribution, 1×3 cleats would be more than sufficient especially since you only used 2 screws per cleat. I would also suggest that 4×4's are only necessary for the base; 2×4's support a hugh amount of verticle weight. Remember to pre-drill screw holes if splitting is a concern.
For an experiment, about 10 years ago, I built a shelf to hold liquid cleaning supplies out of 1×2's for the skeleton and 1/2inch plywood shelves. Pre-drilled/countersunk and screwed together with actual wood screws, not drywall screws, It is anchored to the wall and holds about 320kg (700lbs-ish). I tested it with water-filled jugs before I put cleaning supplies on it. Zero problems after a decade. However, I would not recommend such light construction for high-traffic areas especially if there are rambunctios children running around. Cheers.
I’ve seen people make basically this with 2x4s for everything and they were pretty wobbly so they either anchored it to the wall or used plywood on the back so I’d assume it’s for stability rather than holding the weight
great work as always mate!
well done!
would love to have access to the metric plans if you would be so generous!
many thanks agains.
mike from barcelona
Great to hear and thanks so much for the input. Truly appreciated Mike.
Hello my dearest, I found quite useful (in my garage's workbench) to previously drill holes when installing screws on thin lumber. It's a longer and tedious work but it helped me to have also a nice and smooth finish (I used pine instead of fir, I think harder lumber are more prone to crack)
Great build!! Would love plans….if you got em!!
thanks!
Hey man this is an awesome storage idea. Is there any chance on getting a copy of the plans so I can build one. Thanks in advance for your ideas and help.
Ray
Get yourself a 5 or 6 tier wire shelf. Not as big but works great for smaller totes or crates plus the casters are rated for 500 pounds load while moving.
These boxes are strong. I've had great results simply stacking these on top of eachother, with a mover's dolly under each column of boxes. Cheaper, easier, faster, and more modular.
But one of his stated requirements was to be able to pull out any box, and he intentionally positioned the rails to hold each box off the one below it. I've been doing the stacks (not on the dollies though, that's a good idea!) and am considering a rolling rack like these. Actually a few racks... could be quite a system!
I would really like plans for a standard version. Thanks for the build vid
I see you are doing the same dust collection that I do at the moment (still building out my shop VERY slowly as I am also renovating my house VERY slowly!) My son gives me crap about it every time "Hey dad, I need to grab a screwdriver from the fire trap, er, garage..."
Its all about the little improvements even if its slow to form, right?! haha. Thanks so much for watching.
Can you do a video on whats in all those totes?
Metric has always been the superior instrument 😂 4x4 is 95x95 mm 2 by equals 45 mm. Here in Norden at Least.
If you're building this yourself, the 4x4 verticals are complete overkill and provide no extra weight carrying support.
Just probably at the base if it was me doing this project.
How do I get the plans for this build. Great video, thanks
might need to add a caster in the middle to prevent sag over time which would make it difficult to take the boxes out
I am interested to see if it sags at all over time. If it does I'll make sure my audience knows. Thanks so much for watching.
I would love the written plans!!!!
Nice build. I find using metric measurements is easier because fractions can entirely be avoided. The harder part is visualizing in metric. I can easily call up 5' or 6" mentally, but 1500mm or 150mm. Plus, boards and sheet goods, and standard construction measurements are not metric in the US. It's easy to think about 16" centers or 4' x 8' sheets, but not so much 40.64cm centers or 121.92 x 243.84cm sheets.
Metric is for people who can't count past ten.
Great build. I would like plans for this storage system also.
I plan to build this soon. Question, any concerns with the rack tilting over?
Mixing Metric and Imperial constantly just feels like designing PCBs. If you've done any PCB design and manufacturing you would know. Thankfully lately there seems to be a slow departure from mils (imperial), but the Empire still holds strong.
Thank you for sharing! Built it and love it! Thanks for the plans! I would share the pictures of the projects but saved a ton of space in my garage! On to the next project!
Would love the plans to build this!!!
If you need plans to build this, you probably aren't capable of building it.
Could you use different animals as a measurement system?
Animals? LOL! Thanks for watching.
2:27 Re: learn new skillset
Best measurement or scale for al builds is the millimeter - all can be measured wit that singe unit, and decimals will always be avoided. A house is about 18000 mm long, and plywood is about 12mmx2400x1200 - mm works for everything. FastCap sells tapes for measurements in pure millimeters.
I'd love plans for this as well
I just purchased your plans - thanks. I am wondering why the plans show a larger space at the first row but on your video all of the rows appear to be equidistant?
Yes, Plans would be great
Now put a sliding barn door that covers half to add a little wall space for hanging things.
If you put a sheet of plywood on the bin you can measure the exact height more accurately.
Can you do one of these for a mobile counter height tote storage unite, probably hold 3 totes high maybe 4 depending on the height
Definitely want / NEED, those plans please 🙏 thank you so much you are amazing!!!!!!!!
Great idea! Thank you.
Have you designed it so the bins are horizontal? I haven’t seen a design like that done. I would love to save the inches on it sticking out in the garage.
would these be cracked if you leave outside for months?
A guesstimate on about how much total build cost?
200 usd w/out the bins
How many of each size boards did you use for this system
50.5 was way to tight for the same bins from Home Depot Canada, even tho they say their the same bins. I think I’m going to switch the sides for 2x4 instead of 4x4.
Hope those building this have the materials laying around. Metal shelving solutions from the places which sell these storage totes are less expensive and stronger. 🤔
Simpson strong ties work well
Could you give measurements for 27 gal tote but 3 high and 4 across. Thank you.
How much did this cost?
About $200-$250 depending on if you already have screws
@@ryan74701including the bins ?
I modified metal shelves the one used in kitchens etc by securing them on moving dollys.Its not as customized like the one feature here but for my storage I find them very useful for a small space.
Great job!!!!
How did you figure out the space needed between rails to fit the totes?
This is such a great build. Very useful for us all. How can I get the build instructions in inches? Thanks a bunch
So I ordered the plans a while ago. I would use the imperal measurements. I just need to know which plans go with which totes. One size is for Home Depot Totes the other is other totes from Lowes/Costco/etc. So are the ones with a width of 94 1/2, 20 3/4 and then 17 3/4 for the Home Depot totes? I doesn't specify on the plans which is which. I want to use the bigger totes.
Do the plans also come in standard measurements
Where can I get the plant plans to make the shelf all the measurements I need to make it
here's the link. Thanks so much for asking and your support: www.etsy.com/listing/1636523395/mobile-storage-system-digital-plans
You mentioned plans for this. Have you created then?
Do you think if I add 1-2 more rows it would be stable. Or should I add 1-2 more columns? I realize this will require longer 4x4s and 2x4s (cap plate).
Do you have the build plans available please?
JUST A TIP GET WHITE DUCT TAPE AND A SHARPIE FOR LABLING , WONT FALL OFF WITH HEAT IN A GARAGE OR CURL ENDS LIKE PAINTERS TAPE
5:33 It's a bit funny that metric is more standard than whatever "standard" you're referring to XD
can i buy the plans for a 5 bin L by 4 bin hight? my crawl space is smaller.
If I had known that the metric system did away with the need for lateral/rack/wind bracing, I would have converted decades ago!
Is it possible I can buy this already put together, bends and all??
Plans would be cool
How stable is this fully loaded? How easily could it tip over?
How many other numbers did you use and the two by fours?
You could build that whole system with only 2x3's and it would be plenty strong.
You said if after cross checking, if it’s not square, you adjust one way or the other. What exactly does that mean?
I would suggest that most people should use smaller bins - the boxes you used get very heavy very fast and are a hassle and potential danger for a lot of people to put in and take off from the shelves.
I would love the plans in standard please
How can I get a copy of your plan I. Making this portable storage bin?
Can you provide the digital plans for 17 gallon tote system?
What do you do when you move?
Hey would you be able to draw up the dimensions for a mobile tote storage 3-rows high and 6-wide to hold 18 totes as I would like to use the top of storage as a work bench