For my clients, I automatically build in an AprilAire 700 Automatic which has the digital Model 60 humidistat. I also have them set to run all year. I default all systems to run on "Constant circulation" 24/7 and dial the humidity run 40-45%. I rarely run a bypass or the the 800 because the 700 is good for all size homes and has it's own fan built-in. Great system and easy install.
Right on, curious do you install those on the supply or return? I’ve never installed the fan powered because I’ve felt the bypass works better with hot air blowing across the water panel compared to room temp air, and steam is more work for sure but works well because it’s introducing water already in vapor form.
@@TheHVACDopeShow I do my best to install them on the return but it can be install on either. The water line is hooked to the hot side of the water heater with a stainless steel line. So the fan is blowing across full temp hot water into the air stream. I have install dozens of all the AprilAire models including bypass and steam. In my opinion, there is no comparison. Changing the water pad depends on the water quality in the home. I usually install at least a sediment filter but many opt for the three filter system and water softener. This way the pads and system doesn’t get clogged up with sediment. If you use the OAT sensor and run it on the direct suggestion settings, it won’t exceed 42-45%, unless you click off the override. I found after this many installs, it’s the best option by far. I like the digital Model 60 stat. I don’t use their water line or piercing valves either. I install a 1/4 turn valve plus a Sharkbite T on the hot side of the copper line coming from the water heater. People love it for their skin, sinuses no dust, hardwood floors, pianos and furniture are not dried out. I found steam causes rust issues at various places. Bypass in comparison doesn’t work as well either. But again these are my findings after testing many models and brands.
@@Balticblue93 Hi, I know this is 7 months old, but any thoughts on their new 720 model? I have two 30 year old 760's that an hvac company quoted $3400 to switch to honeywell bypass. I think I'm just going to preorder the 720 and install myself for $1000. Looks pretty simple considering it's pretty similar to the 760
@@Balticblue93 Semi-related, I'm about to install an Aprilaire 600 on my furnace. I've previously installed two on the return side. The furnace guy at my new wife's house said he installs them on the supply side. On this furnace, it would be on the vertical plenum above the furnace/coil, before it transitions to horizontal ductwork. If I cut a ~9" x ~12" opening right there, I'd think that would create a lot of turbulence in the airflow. Plus, provide an easy path for hot air to loop back thru the return, resulting in less flow to the ducts. In contrast, in the return, air is getting sucked out of it the humidifier, vs blowing into it, I'd think with less airflow issues. Plus the hot air is only coming from a 6" round duct, vs going through the much bigger rectangular opening. In my old houses, I had it on humidifier could activate the blower mode (if it needed to add humidity when the heat was off). It did kick on at times, but never on continuously. So I know a return-mounted humidifier can provide enough humidity. Comments appreciated.
Thanks for this review! I’ve been searching TH-cam for solutions to keep indoor humidity at decently consistent levels. I live in NC, so most would suggest installing a de-humidifier, however in the colder months it can get uncomfortably dry inside. With all the smart home tech coming out, I’m not sure why I’m not seeing any practical methods of keeping humidity levels on autopilot. If one exists, I’d love to see a how-to or review video.
Thanks! Yeah you have to have either a dehumidifier or humidifier or both, although both is rare. Technically your AC dehumidifies the air, but your furnace or heat pump will dry it. If you install a humidifier like the AprilAire steam it will have a humidistat that is “set and forget” and will turn itself off and on accordingly.
I tossed my bypass because it made very little difference in Illinois. I went with the Aprilaire 801 which comes with a modulating humidistat. This was a bit overkill and created an installation nightmare with my two zone system. I'm a DIYer and have a relentless pursuit in figure new stuff out. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. We have very hard water in my location at 148 PPM (mg/L) or 8 gpg. I have an ice maker filter installed before the unit and this has cut down my canister replacements. I now use two canisters per season. When one is in use, the other is filled up with vinegar to soak with flashing tape used on both ends to prevent leakage. I then flush it out several times to remove sediment buildup then reuse. This isn't fun but I save money in the long run. Everything about this unit is expensive and I feel it's worth it. I also flush the unit out after each day by turning it off manually. Sometimes the flushed water is bright red from the rust or other garbage. I plan to install a 240v whip with an outlet. I will install a timer so that the unit flushes automatically each day. The indoor humidity in my 3000 square foot house is set to 48.
I would look at some sort of filtration. Technically hard water is “better” for steam in that it makes the water more conductive for steam production, but it does have the side effects you’re experiencing. That seems like an excessive amount of maintenance. If you look at any of the sealed “softeners” or whole house filters that might reduce some of what you have in your water it would probably reduce that Maintenace. Even a sediment prefer sounds like it would go a long way. Are you on a well?
The Aprilaire autostat (automatic humidistats, ie. 600A vs 600M) have a blower activation mode, where it can turn on the blower if it needs to run to add humidity. You seemed to mention that as a unique benefit to steam humidifiers. If you ran a bypass humidifier with a blower-on controller, would that change your results?
In my experience not very well because it's room temp air. Bypass humidifiers and powered humidifiers (non steam) don't work well without the heat running because the air doesn't evaporate as much water at 70F temp air. Swamp coolers in dry climates work for example because the air is hot and dry going across the water panel so it helps evaporate the water. If someone wants blower on activation we always go for steam
Thank you for this video. Have you had any installs where you had to add a knock arrestor to the Aprilaire? When the unit cycles to add water to the steam "pot" for lack of a better word, there is a noticeable knock which I would like to stop or diminish. Any insight would be appreciated. Tom
Yes, I have this at my house lol I don’t mind it so I left it… short answer is ISO pads. We’ve mounted the unit on isopods because the clicking between the wall stops this. Also hammer arrestors (they’re like shock absorbers) can go on the water line somewhere to help with this. It’s most commonly knocking because the pipes are banging / shutting off flow abruptly and the noise travels through the framing, or through the plumbing, or both. The arrestor and iso pads should fix this or make it tolerable
@@TheHVACDopeShow Ok. Thank you. Arrestor should be an easier install. Shut off Aprilaire. Shut off the water supply. Drain the Aprilaire. Remove the water feed line, install the arrestor inline. Reverse the above. For the ISO pads I would need to do much of the above plus remove the unit so I can add the iso pads.
I live in Florida, so we generally have high humidity outdoors, but our AC units pull the water out of the air dying things out to 38%-48%. This is comfortable for us, but we are running commercial printers that seem to function best when humidity levels are in the 60%-80% /temperatures between 72-77 degrees. Are there units that can achieve those humidity levels effectively and consistently?
It’s just the dehumidification settings on the AC… for a commercial application like this you may have to modify how things operate, or keep the temp higher to keep higher humidity, or add makeup air from the outdoors…
Depends probably a wash either way, I would get a quote and see but our quotes for example are normally around $2500, and parts cost including the equipment / misc parts is usually around $1200 before labor / overhead so if someone ever has a customer supplied one we’re still charging the same labor amount. I normally would suggest have the contractor buy it because then it’s warranty is local too for parts that fail etc
Check your humidity in the house if you’re at 41.6% or higher you’re “ideal”, but anything above 35% will be enough to keep a soundboard in tune longer and prevent it from cracking. I only know the 41.6% figure because we have a few customers with baby grand pianos that told us that lol. But a basic hygrometer should tell you your humidity levels
Yes, has to do with size of home not necessarily size of unit. It can humidify up to about 4,000/5,000 square feet depending on relative humidity starting point in my experience
I have 4300 sq feet space, but I have two furnaces and two ACs (upstairs and downstairs) Two bypass humidifiers work perfectly. Two steam humidifiers wouldn't make sense.
Sounds right to me, and I agree two steam would probably be overkill. I have seen them struggle on a 5600’ house with 1 steam system but I think it was just because of how dry it is (normal humidity in the area is around 15-17% and the humidifier was able to get up to about 25% RH)
For my clients, I automatically build in an AprilAire 700 Automatic which has the digital Model 60 humidistat. I also have them set to run all year. I default all systems to run on "Constant circulation" 24/7 and dial the humidity run 40-45%. I rarely run a bypass or the the 800 because the 700 is good for all size homes and has it's own fan built-in. Great system and easy install.
Right on, curious do you install those on the supply or return? I’ve never installed the fan powered because I’ve felt the bypass works better with hot air blowing across the water panel compared to room temp air, and steam is more work for sure but works well because it’s introducing water already in vapor form.
@@TheHVACDopeShow
I do my best to install them on the return but it can be install on either. The water line is hooked to the hot side of the water heater with a stainless steel line. So the fan is blowing across full temp hot water into the air stream. I have install dozens of all the AprilAire models including bypass and steam.
In my opinion, there is no comparison. Changing the water pad depends on the water quality in the home. I usually install at least a sediment filter but many opt for the three filter system and water softener. This way the pads and system doesn’t get clogged up with sediment.
If you use the OAT sensor and run it on the direct suggestion settings, it won’t exceed 42-45%, unless you click off the override.
I found after this many installs, it’s the best option by far. I like the digital Model 60 stat. I don’t use their water line or piercing valves either. I install a 1/4 turn valve plus a Sharkbite T on the hot side of the copper line coming from the water heater.
People love it for their skin, sinuses no dust, hardwood floors, pianos and furniture are not dried out. I found steam causes rust issues at various places. Bypass in comparison doesn’t work as well either. But again these are my findings after testing many models and brands.
@@Balticblue93 Hi, I know this is 7 months old, but any thoughts on their new 720 model? I have two 30 year old 760's that an hvac company quoted $3400 to switch to honeywell bypass. I think I'm just going to preorder the 720 and install myself for $1000. Looks pretty simple considering it's pretty similar to the 760
@@Balticblue93 Semi-related, I'm about to install an Aprilaire 600 on my furnace. I've previously installed two on the return side. The furnace guy at my new wife's house said he installs them on the supply side. On this furnace, it would be on the vertical plenum above the furnace/coil, before it transitions to horizontal ductwork.
If I cut a ~9" x ~12" opening right there, I'd think that would create a lot of turbulence in the airflow. Plus, provide an easy path for hot air to loop back thru the return, resulting in less flow to the ducts.
In contrast, in the return, air is getting sucked out of it the humidifier, vs blowing into it, I'd think with less airflow issues. Plus the hot air is only coming from a 6" round duct, vs going through the much bigger rectangular opening.
In my old houses, I had it on humidifier could activate the blower mode (if it needed to add humidity when the heat was off). It did kick on at times, but never on continuously. So I know a return-mounted humidifier can provide enough humidity.
Comments appreciated.
You've got the best videos on these topics. Thanks man!
My pleasure glad we could help!
Thanks for this review! I’ve been searching TH-cam for solutions to keep indoor humidity at decently consistent levels. I live in NC, so most would suggest installing a de-humidifier, however in the colder months it can get uncomfortably dry inside. With all the smart home tech coming out, I’m not sure why I’m not seeing any practical methods of keeping humidity levels on autopilot. If one exists, I’d love to see a how-to or review video.
Thanks! Yeah you have to have either a dehumidifier or humidifier or both, although both is rare. Technically your AC dehumidifies the air, but your furnace or heat pump will dry it. If you install a humidifier like the AprilAire steam it will have a humidistat that is “set and forget” and will turn itself off and on accordingly.
I tossed my bypass because it made very little difference in Illinois. I went with the Aprilaire 801 which comes with a modulating humidistat. This was a bit overkill and created an installation nightmare with my two zone system. I'm a DIYer and have a relentless pursuit in figure new stuff out. I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. We have very hard water in my location at 148 PPM (mg/L) or 8 gpg. I have an ice maker filter installed before the unit and this has cut down my canister replacements. I now use two canisters per season. When one is in use, the other is filled up with vinegar to soak with flashing tape used on both ends to prevent leakage. I then flush it out several times to remove sediment buildup then reuse. This isn't fun but I save money in the long run. Everything about this unit is expensive and I feel it's worth it. I also flush the unit out after each day by turning it off manually. Sometimes the flushed water is bright red from the rust or other garbage. I plan to install a 240v whip with an outlet. I will install a timer so that the unit flushes automatically each day. The indoor humidity in my 3000 square foot house is set to 48.
I would look at some sort of filtration. Technically hard water is “better” for steam in that it makes the water more conductive for steam production, but it does have the side effects you’re experiencing. That seems like an excessive amount of maintenance. If you look at any of the sealed “softeners” or whole house filters that might reduce some of what you have in your water it would probably reduce that Maintenace. Even a sediment prefer sounds like it would go a long way. Are you on a well?
The Aprilaire autostat (automatic humidistats, ie. 600A vs 600M) have a blower activation mode, where it can turn on the blower if it needs to run to add humidity. You seemed to mention that as a unique benefit to steam humidifiers.
If you ran a bypass humidifier with a blower-on controller, would that change your results?
In my experience not very well because it's room temp air. Bypass humidifiers and powered humidifiers (non steam) don't work well without the heat running because the air doesn't evaporate as much water at 70F temp air. Swamp coolers in dry climates work for example because the air is hot and dry going across the water panel so it helps evaporate the water. If someone wants blower on activation we always go for steam
Thank you for this video. Have you had any installs where you had to add a knock arrestor to the Aprilaire? When the unit cycles to add water to the steam "pot" for lack of a better word, there is a noticeable knock which I would like to stop or diminish. Any insight would be appreciated. Tom
Yes, I have this at my house lol I don’t mind it so I left it… short answer is ISO pads. We’ve mounted the unit on isopods because the clicking between the wall stops this. Also hammer arrestors (they’re like shock absorbers) can go on the water line somewhere to help with this. It’s most commonly knocking because the pipes are banging / shutting off flow abruptly and the noise travels through the framing, or through the plumbing, or both. The arrestor and iso pads should fix this or make it tolerable
@@TheHVACDopeShow Ok. Thank you. Arrestor should be an easier install. Shut off Aprilaire. Shut off the water supply. Drain the Aprilaire. Remove the water feed line, install the arrestor inline. Reverse the above. For the ISO pads I would need to do much of the above plus remove the unit so I can add the iso pads.
Curious if it’s possible to install on a fully ducted Mitsubishi Zuba heat pump with electric backup?
I live in Florida, so we generally have high humidity outdoors, but our AC units pull the water out of the air dying things out to 38%-48%. This is comfortable for us, but we are running commercial printers that seem to function best when humidity levels are in the 60%-80% /temperatures between 72-77 degrees. Are there units that can achieve those humidity levels effectively and consistently?
It’s just the dehumidification settings on the AC… for a commercial application like this you may have to modify how things operate, or keep the temp higher to keep higher humidity, or add makeup air from the outdoors…
Thanks for this informative video! 👍
Is it more affordable to purchase the unit on Amazon and hire a pro to install it?
Depends probably a wash either way, I would get a quote and see but our quotes for example are normally around $2500, and parts cost including the equipment / misc parts is usually around $1200 before labor / overhead so if someone ever has a customer supplied one we’re still charging the same labor amount. I normally would suggest have the contractor buy it because then it’s warranty is local too for parts that fail etc
in colorado should I turn off the April Air 800 during summer. Have a baby grand.
Check your humidity in the house if you’re at 41.6% or higher you’re “ideal”, but anything above 35% will be enough to keep a soundboard in tune longer and prevent it from cracking. I only know the 41.6% figure because we have a few customers with baby grand pianos that told us that lol. But a basic hygrometer should tell you your humidity levels
Is it necessary to have a UV light installed as well when doing this?
No, the uv light or any air purification is an optional upgrade if that’s important to you. It will work well with or without it
Will this work for a 4 ton unit?
Yes, has to do with size of home not necessarily size of unit. It can humidify up to about 4,000/5,000 square feet depending on relative humidity starting point in my experience
@@TheHVACDopeShow thanks can this unit be mounted in the attic?
I have 4300 sq feet space, but I have two furnaces and two ACs (upstairs and downstairs) Two bypass humidifiers work perfectly. Two steam humidifiers wouldn't make sense.
Sounds right to me, and I agree two steam would probably be overkill. I have seen them struggle on a 5600’ house with 1 steam system but I think it was just because of how dry it is (normal humidity in the area is around 15-17% and the humidifier was able to get up to about 25% RH)