Thank you for making this, it gave me the confidence to try it myself. Was gonna order some electric ink to fix a dead key, but then decided I’d open it up before buying. Turns out it only needed some brushing off, fixed it instantly. Even tested it out without reassembling like you did in the video. Saved me a bunch of time and energy 👊🏽
I actually REALLY appreciate your exhibited humility throughout this video. I'm not yet sure if this will fix my mpk261 yet since I don't have adequate materials atm. But your video helps to not be complacent! I'll give you an update
I got mine fully working with this help. Thank you. I didn't have to do anything else than just clean those contact surfaces with alcohol and a rough rag. About half of my keys were non responsive, now all work as intended. I had dead insects inside and under the rubber things under keys.
Thanks for posting this! I have a 10 year old version that had over 6 dead keys. Even though I have copper tape, I bought some conductive paint and coated all the pads. I figured once I started, I should just make the whole thing work right for a few years! But I was ready to toss it, so great tip.
@@BlondieHappyGuy Oh interesting, I did not realize we cannot post links. My reply probably did not go through as a result. So, basically, I started with a conductive paint pen, which you squeeze and depress at the same time. This is great for solid surfaces-not so much for rubber pads. I ended up squeezing some out into a small bottle cap or something and diluting it with acetone to keep it runny, and then brushing it onto the pads with a small spatula. In retrospect, I would have better better off with conductive paint in a bottle with brush applicator. I did send a link for a product like that, but just search for "Water-Based Silver Conductive Paint,8 Gram Brush Cap Bottle" choose silver option, not carbon. One brand is conductive compounds, and should run you 20-30 dollars or so.
fixed mine!, last C key was not responding and now it's like new. thank you. There's no need to take out the flex cable if you keep the plastic cover near
at 3:12: to remove the connector tape, you have to push the 2 little black levers from that small black thingy you got into your hands. using a small flat screwdriver, simply push a little bit those 2 black thingies in the same direction you want to remove the connector. the black plastic thingy only "pushes" the tape to block it. it's not "clickable"
Yeah, turns out one of the cables in a cable bundle connected to half the keys on my board’s PCB was unplugged, so I had the pleasure of doing some soldering 😅 works now though, so thanks anyway!
I had this exact issue for years despite taking great care of my keyboard. I put it away in it's box when the keys died in hopes to get the courage to attempt this surgery one day. think I'm going to go for it this week
This is really helpful bro, I also faced same problem, I cleaned and it worked for some days but again started facing same problem. This copper tape thing I didn't know, so thanks for that. Do you have any idea where can we get the new membrane if it's completely corrupted ? Thanks for the video ! It helps !
@@BlondieHappyGuy Which one specifically did you use? I am looking to buy some to try this. I have several keys that have poor contact. Unsure which one to buy. I was going to get: MG Chemicals 838AR-55ML Total Ground Carbon Conductive Coating, 55 mL Bottle (the Acrylic based Carbon paint) Not sure if that one would work well for this. I was thinking that a pen might work better...
I think this might be the problem mine has, but only about half my keys work. If this fix doesn't work, what could I look at to try and find the problem?
Should work, but using a (soft-leaded) pencil to fill/color the black dots also works. I used it on other devices which work in the same way these buttons do. When using aluminium foil you will have to glue them, but some people say the super glue can cause issues with the silicon rubber.
@@bibekpawn6175 I didnt test it, but Lets say you put the aluminium to the board itself and use the plain black dots. the issue might rise again since the black dots are the one that caused the issue. not the circuit. To my understanding the black dots complete the circuit and allows the current to flow from point a to point b (thus creating sound). those dots have a certain conductivity, by using a pencil or the tape mentioned in the video you increase the conductivity of the black dots. fixing the issue of the Keys not registering.
can I use the rubber piece that lies on the circuit board (I believe it's called a contact rubber, but I'm not sure) for the MPK261 as well? I've had an AKAI MPK261 sitting with me for about half a year, but I can't use it because the rubber is torn and brittle. for months, I've been searching for replacement parts but can't seem to find anything. therefore, i'm curious if the rubber from the smaller MPK models can be installed into the larger version...
just picked up an old keyboard on ebay for SUPER CHEAP and it had a few dead keys. I had no idea the little rubber bumpers were conductive. Alcohol and a QTIP did the trick. :)
I wouldn't have opened it if I realised I needed copper tape FFS, why do tutorials always require something that people don't have laying around the house
@@satyambastia2905 For me yes, but be dure the pencil contains conductive materials like lead. I used a graphite (grey) pencil. Be sure to apply it thoroughly. The black dots should be covered with the shiny graphite.
Thank you for making this, it gave me the confidence to try it myself. Was gonna order some electric ink to fix a dead key, but then decided I’d open it up before buying. Turns out it only needed some brushing off, fixed it instantly. Even tested it out without reassembling like you did in the video. Saved me a bunch of time and energy 👊🏽
I actually REALLY appreciate your exhibited humility throughout this video. I'm not yet sure if this will fix my mpk261 yet since I don't have adequate materials atm. But your video helps to not be complacent! I'll give you an update
I got mine fully working with this help. Thank you. I didn't have to do anything else than just clean those contact surfaces with alcohol and a rough rag. About half of my keys were non responsive, now all work as intended. I had dead insects inside and under the rubber things under keys.
is it still working ?
@@bibekpawn6175 yes it is, I just have to do it again soon. I think the material is getting old and leaving some residue so I need to repeat it.
@@Jiepers thanks
Thanks for posting this! I have a 10 year old version that had over 6 dead keys. Even though I have copper tape, I bought some conductive paint and coated all the pads. I figured once I started, I should just make the whole thing work right for a few years! But I was ready to toss it, so great tip.
@@BlondieHappyGuy The conductive paint did work! The copper strips did not.
@@BlondieHappyGuy One more thing...brush it on well, and let it dry for a day or so.
@@BlondieHappyGuy Oh interesting, I did not realize we cannot post links. My reply probably did not go through as a result. So, basically, I started with a conductive paint pen, which you squeeze and depress at the same time. This is great for solid surfaces-not so much for rubber pads. I ended up squeezing some out into a small bottle cap or something and diluting it with acetone to keep it runny, and then brushing it onto the pads with a small spatula. In retrospect, I would have better better off with conductive paint in a bottle with brush applicator. I did send a link for a product like that, but just search for "Water-Based Silver Conductive Paint,8 Gram Brush Cap Bottle" choose silver option, not carbon. One brand is conductive compounds, and should run you 20-30 dollars or so.
fixed mine!, last C key was not responding and now it's like new. thank you. There's no need to take out the flex cable if you keep the plastic cover near
Thank you :) It was ridiculously easy to fix. Glad I didn't have to "bin" it ;) (Or just play in a certain scale and key that avoided the dead key)
This was very helpful! Thank you so much!
at 3:12: to remove the connector tape, you have to push the 2 little black levers from that small black thingy you got into your hands. using a small flat screwdriver, simply push a little bit those 2 black thingies in the same direction you want to remove the connector. the black plastic thingy only "pushes" the tape to block it. it's not "clickable"
Tip: you can also use conductive paint. But thanks! Gonna help my friend fix his with this method.
Yeah, turns out one of the cables in a cable bundle connected to half the keys on my board’s PCB was unplugged, so I had the pleasure of doing some soldering 😅 works now though, so thanks anyway!
I had this exact issue for years despite taking great care of my keyboard. I put it away in it's box when the keys died in hopes to get the courage to attempt this surgery one day. think I'm going to go for it this week
If super glues dont work, what do u use to stick the Copper tape into the 2 pressure sensor thingy
thanks for the tutorial. worked like a charm.
Whut? This is SO helpful! I have a key that barely responds. Im going in on it now. Thanks!
Well done :) I will try something like that on my Launchkey Mini MK3
ok, sweet! some of my keys are dead aswell, I cleaned the keys but apparently I have to take care of the rubber thingys also, thank you!
This is really helpful bro, I also faced same problem, I cleaned and it worked for some days but again started facing same problem. This copper tape thing I didn't know, so thanks for that. Do you have any idea where can we get the new membrane if it's completely corrupted ? Thanks for the video ! It helps !
Thanks
Looks to me like the black electrical isolation paint used inside Ibanez guitars. It acts like a faraday cage but it's also conductive black paint.
@@BlondieHappyGuy You might find it at a guitar luthier supply website. I've only seen it as brush on.
@@BlondieHappyGuy Which one specifically did you use? I am looking to buy some to try this. I have several keys that have poor contact. Unsure which one to buy. I was going to get: MG Chemicals 838AR-55ML Total Ground Carbon Conductive Coating, 55 mL Bottle (the Acrylic based Carbon paint)
Not sure if that one would work well for this. I was thinking that a pen might work better...
Hi, do you think it could work with a conductive ink pen?
it works! thanks
Thanks for this. I already cleaned mine and that didn’t help. Going to try the conductive paint 🤞
I think this might be the problem mine has, but only about half my keys work. If this fix doesn't work, what could I look at to try and find the problem?
can we use aluminium foil?
Should work, but using a (soft-leaded) pencil to fill/color the black dots also works. I used it on other devices which work in the same way these buttons do.
When using aluminium foil you will have to glue them, but some people say the super glue can cause issues with the silicon rubber.
@@tjodh8229 thanks for the insight!! what abt instead of sticking it on the rubber black dot , we stick it in the board ??
@@bibekpawn6175 I didnt test it, but Lets say you put the aluminium to the board itself and use the plain black dots. the issue might rise again since the black dots are the one that caused the issue. not the circuit.
To my understanding the black dots complete the circuit and allows the current to flow from point a to point b (thus creating sound). those dots have a certain conductivity, by using a pencil or the tape mentioned in the video you increase the conductivity of the black dots. fixing the issue of the Keys not registering.
can I use the rubber piece that lies on the circuit board (I believe it's called a contact rubber, but I'm not sure) for the MPK261 as well? I've had an AKAI MPK261 sitting with me for about half a year, but I can't use it because the rubber is torn and brittle. for months, I've been searching for replacement parts but can't seem to find anything. therefore, i'm curious if the rubber from the smaller MPK models can be installed into the larger version...
just picked up an old keyboard on ebay for SUPER CHEAP and it had a few dead keys. I had no idea the little rubber bumpers were conductive. Alcohol and a QTIP did the trick. :)
That same freaking Key...
Same!
I wouldn't have opened it if I realised I needed copper tape
FFS, why do tutorials always require something that people don't have laying around the house
try to color the black dots with a soft-leaded pencil. That should do the trick. I used it on a similar device and it works like new.
@@tjodh8229did this trick with pencil work for you?
@@satyambastia2905 For me yes, but be dure the pencil contains conductive materials like lead. I used a graphite (grey) pencil. Be sure to apply it thoroughly. The black dots should be covered with the shiny graphite.
Or you could try spraying compressed air first before taking it apart.