Can only say....hats of to you Mike!!! Most off the things you do is not what younger people know how to do...Everything is about buy new parts the cheepiast way. I really like what you do Mike...The best on TH-cam!!! Thanks again!!
Mike I may be able to help some of your subscribers. Ebay has Chinese copies of your riveting tool for $24.99. There's usually old originals listed as well and I only paid $10.99 for mine. Although I haven't personally tried this yet, a Model T or Model A Ford riveting tool may work as well and these are readily available through many sources. On a lighter note, I shudder everytime I'm at the dragstrip and I look over in the next lane and my competition removed their rear disc brake rotor and caliper. Long live the drum brake ! Thanks for the very TRADITIONAL repair video.
"Going fast is fun...Stopping fast is funner!". Greetings from the other coast..Keep up the great work, man. SoCal boy at heart here....Looove watching the stuff you do. Thanks again for keeping us entertained and educated.
Thanks for sharing the trade secrets Mike. There is a special place in heaven for you. The new lining with brass rivots PLUS the beveling of the leading edge is something other people might not have shared.
Thanks Mike for your videos. I am glad I found your channel. Not to many guys make videos about working on old school bikes. I am old school and not to good with computers but it’s great to see old scoots like mine being worked on ! Thanks again.
How great is that. I'm sure the replacement parts are much cheaper that buying a whole piece. All it takes is a few minutes of work. And the brake shoes are on. Thanks for sharing how it comes together Mike !
yep no doubt glad you skided on thru that ,I have been that guy that skided thru the redlight while all my buddies are back where they supposed to be nice & safe ,never a good feeling .
Love to watch your videos , it brings me back to a time when we did our own work on the bike that we loved. I remember going to the Harley Dealer where when you walked into the showroom there were only five or six new bikes for sale. There would the usual trade ins and that was it. The guy at the parts counter was probably the head mechanic and the salesman ( we did not use the "Salesperson " back then as nobody in his right mind would find the term "offensive " ) . He knew your name , he knew what model of Harley you owned and had in stock most of the parts you needed for your bike. He would to get you the parts you needed give you some good advice like not drilling the holes oversize in the shoes and all the parts were made in the USA and were well made. The Dealerships now are Mega Super Stores that carry virtually no parts , they do however carry lots of clothing , tons of useless nick knacks mostly made in China and several bathrooms to satisfy the "Politically Correct " . Your videos bring a dash of sanity and common sense that is most refreshing and appreciated , Thank you,
I hear you loud and clear. I visited every dealership I could to experience the personality of each one. Now, the only way we can keep those characteristics alive is by reenacting them with our own flavor. You and I are doing it now with our communication. With a little luck, we'll run into each other, or, we'll meet other people who want to experience the grand old days of respect and individuality.
Hello Mike. Really enjoying your video. I need to true my 1950 flathead flywheel. It's only 9 thousands off between the two wheels. I'd love to see a flywheel straighten up video. Cheers
.009" is a mile. Are you measuring in the right places? Check you're service manual. Are you using a lathe, or a truing stand? I assume you're working on a WLA. The information is all available. We'll show it when we build a flywheel assembly.
@@pacificmike9501 hello, I'm working on a WLH. The story is that it's from the few servicar they build for the Netherland military police. You're right. I took it to a friend machinist and he put it on his lathe with a micro dial tool magnetized on the side. He put the dial on the surface of the crank bearing and on the side of the sprocket the dial would move .001 and on the side of the oil pump it would move about .003. It's when he would put it on the tip of the flywheel for side movement that the side of the oil pump would be out 0.007 I'm looking forward to the flywheel rebuild. Hopefully soon. Cheers
Keep up the awesome wrenching how to’s ! Your evo tear down and rebuild is coming in real handy right now. My 87 cracked a case from one jug to the other. A buddy repaired it and after giving it a bath I’m putting cases back together tomorrow and am hoping to have it all back together by end of weekend.
I had to reline front pads on a 74 Sportster I had. That was an interesting experience since I never had to do that before. Made some mistakes with rivets but it worked great once i fixed it. I like your tool much better. I used one of the cheap ones off ebay
No big deal. There used to be brake shops in every town too. They would rebuild everything in a car's brake system right there in their shop. This is just old stuff done the old way.
Wow, that brought back some early teen memories. That's when I was taught how to re-line brake shoes and ark them. Yea Mike, I'm about as old as you too...lol
I had a 47 Knuckle do the same to me, Came up on an intersection hit the brakes and went right thru....So Mike, I know the feeling....Another ? about Brakes, Is I watched a couple of Vids on 50's model Pans and they had the front brake lever on the left hand side, Why was that....
I'm not sure. Most of the old timers I remember, from before I was old, ran them that way. I always put that brake lever on the right. Good question. I think they must have wanted it to not interfere with their throttle hand.
Hey Mike, I love watching your videos. I've been wrenching on and restoring old bikes for years. I have a large collection of mostly European and Japanese motorcycles. I just bought my first vintage Harley, a 1942 WLA flathead. Was wondering if you could a video on setting the ignition timing. Keep up the great work with the videos.
Thank you. It's the same as timing any Harley twin with a "circuit breaker" assembly on it. Just check your service manual for the diagram of the timing mark on the flywheel. This is all shown when we timed the Knucklehead. We don't have a 45 around at the moment. But, we've got quite a few videos.
Hey Mike. I am subscribed. Dig the videos. Very informative. So I thought maybe you could help me with an issue I have. I own a 1998 Electra Glide classic and have bought a sissy bar and quick release kit but I have no installation instructions for the mount hardware. Any info is appreciated.
I have to do the same thing for front pads on a 76 Sportster caliper. I cannot seem to find the appropriate tool. I wonder if a conical point punch to get it started, followed by a flat tip punch would work properly? Providing an appropriate back up was used on the flat side of the rivet ? Great video by the way! Thanks!
Nope. I don't even have the fixture. You'll probably need to either find one of those Harley setups, or just get creative. When the holes in the drum get bad, I have the new sprocket welded to the drum. Should be done on a lathe to get it centered properly. Or, buy a new drum with a sprocket on it.
Great video Mike. Is it possible to tell me what the setting punch face looks like? There are lots of Model A and T punches available but I am relining my ‘45 rear shoes. Curious if there is a pilot on the punch and a concave face. Thx from Ohio.
The set I'm using is an aircraft set and the "anvil" that the head of the rivet rests on is naturally, smooth. The end of the punch has a pilot to keep the rivet open while a "concave circumference" rolls the edge of the rivet over and round.
Mike, perhaps I can help some of your subscribers, Ebay has several Chinese copies of your riveting tool, $24.99. There's usually some genuine old stock items listed as well. I bought mine for $10.99 believe it or not. Quite a deal for sure. Although I haven't tried it personally on the Harleys, but the riviter for the old Model A and Model T Fords might work as well, and they are readily available from several suppliers. Thank you for the very TRADITIONAL repair video. I shudder whenever I am at the dragstrip and I look over in the next lane and my competition removed his rear disc brake rotor and caliper. Long live the drum brake !
Hi Mike thanks for the videos I am very green when it comes to motorcycles but learning so much here. my question does not relate to this video you mentioned in another but can't remember where, I have a shovel trike I'm building I'm paraplegic..it has servi car diff.. the diff has a smaller sprocket than the standard shovel.. I don't know if there is a formula but do you have a recommendation for the gear box sprocket size to suit to get the right gearing and I currently have a main drive belt would this suffice or would you say I'd need to convert back to chain and have a different sprocket size there aswell.. sorry for long winded question. Hoping you might be able to help.. cheers
That's a great project and a great question. I assume you're using a 4 speed Shovel head transmission. The final drive ratio is simply the trans sprocket divided into the wheel sprocket size. You'r also dealing with the rear wheel size. This will take some experimenting. But it's commonly done and you'll get there. You didn't tell me enough information. How many teeth on the diff? Write back and tell me. What trans? We should be able to get you in the ball park.
@@pacificmike9501 , thanks for your time I appreciate it.. Yes running a 4 speed, i have two boxes a 3 speed with reverse , and a 4 speed box.. i think ill use the 3 speed though as pretty sure reverse will come in handy with my situation... the diff sprocket has 37 teeth the trans sprocket has 22 teeth on the 3 speed.. not got to the 4 speed one as yet need to take the inner primary cover off(watching your vids to make sure I have it right before doing it).. and the rear wheels are 14x10 inch spoked jag rims-- hope that information helps some...
Hi Pacific Mike, are these shoes made of asbestos or are they new made? What is the difference if you can tell us? I have a pack of NOS shoes. Thank you.
The lining I installed is reproduction stuff. I don't know what the actual makeup is. I'm sure it's not asbestos. When I can, I've got some ideas to try. Those NOS shoes should be cool. Probably work real well.
Hello Mike, i have one question. What is the Torque-Value for the bolts from an original Rear Brake-Caliper (Banana-Style)? I Drive a 1980 FLH. The Original Bolts are installed. Greetings from Germany Matze
Back in the days you actually "rebuilt" parts, not just "replaced" parts! Great to see, thank you!
Thank you.
Can only say....hats of to you Mike!!! Most off the things you do is not what younger people know how to do...Everything is about buy new parts the cheepiast way.
I really like what you do Mike...The best on TH-cam!!! Thanks again!!
And, Thank You Sir.
Nice work again
Thanks again!
Mike I may be able to help some of your subscribers. Ebay has Chinese copies of your riveting tool for $24.99. There's usually old originals listed as well and I only paid $10.99 for mine. Although I haven't personally tried this yet, a Model T or Model A Ford riveting tool may work as well and these are readily available through many sources. On a lighter note, I shudder everytime I'm at the dragstrip and I look over in the next lane and my competition removed their rear disc brake rotor and caliper. Long live the drum brake ! Thanks for the very TRADITIONAL repair video.
Thank you. On the next video, I'll mention these tools again. It seems any aircraft tool supply has this stuff. But thank you.
"Going fast is fun...Stopping fast is funner!". Greetings from the other coast..Keep up the great work, man. SoCal boy at heart here....Looove watching the stuff you do. Thanks again for keeping us entertained and educated.
Thank You.
Great to see the care for the art
Thank you. It's a "love thing."
This channel is quickly bergamot my favorite because of videos like these!! Knowledge that is almost a lost art! Keep it up!!
Thanks, will do!
Thanks for sharing the trade secrets Mike. There is a special place in heaven for you. The new lining with brass rivots PLUS the beveling of the leading edge is something other people might not have shared.
Thank You.
Thanks Mike for your videos. I am glad I found your channel. Not to many guys make videos about working on old school bikes. I am old school and not to good with computers but it’s great to see old scoots like mine being worked on ! Thanks again.
Thank you. I'm not a computer guy either. But really, what a tool. It got us in contact.
If your ever up north I would love to shot the bull with you. Thanks again
Zen and the art of relining brake shoes
Thank you.
@@pacificmike9501 always a pleasure sir!
How great is that. I'm sure the replacement parts are much cheaper that buying a whole piece. All it takes is a few minutes of work. And the brake shoes are on. Thanks for sharing how it comes together Mike !
Thank you.
Nice video! Love watching you rebuild something!
Thank You.
Glad you weren't hurt when the brakes got interesting. Cool video as always!
Thank you for both thoughts.
yep no doubt glad you skided on thru that ,I have been that guy that skided thru the redlight while all my buddies are back where they supposed to be nice & safe ,never a good feeling .
Love to watch your videos , it brings me back to a time when we did our own work on the bike that we loved. I remember going to the Harley Dealer where when you walked into the showroom there were only five or six new bikes for sale. There would the usual trade ins and that was it. The guy at the parts counter was probably the head mechanic and the salesman ( we did not use the "Salesperson " back then as nobody in his right mind would find the term "offensive " ) . He knew your name , he knew what model of Harley you owned and had in stock most of the parts you needed for your bike. He would to get you the parts you needed give you some good advice like not drilling the holes oversize in the shoes and all the parts were made in the USA and were well made. The Dealerships now are Mega Super Stores that carry virtually no parts , they do however carry lots of clothing , tons of useless nick knacks mostly made in China and several bathrooms to satisfy the "Politically Correct " . Your videos bring a dash of sanity and common sense that is most refreshing and appreciated , Thank you,
I hear you loud and clear. I visited every dealership I could to experience the personality of each one. Now, the only way we can keep those characteristics alive is by reenacting them with our own flavor. You and I are doing it now with our communication. With a little luck, we'll run into each other, or, we'll meet other people who want to experience the grand old days of respect and individuality.
Thanks for this timely video Mike. Found a rivet tool similar to yours on an aircraft supply catalog approximately $30.
Cool. Thank You.
Great how 2. I enjoy watching you at your craft. Thanks.
Thank you.
Welcome to another episode of “ This old bike”! I enjoy your videos, keep them coming.
Thank you.
Thank you for showing this Mike! I was wondering how I was going to do this on my 3 old bikes - now I know!
Cool. Thanks for watching.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Watched and very much enjoyed.
Thank you.
Hello Mike.
Really enjoying your video. I need to true my 1950 flathead flywheel. It's only 9 thousands off between the two wheels.
I'd love to see a flywheel straighten up video. Cheers
.009" is a mile. Are you measuring in the right places? Check you're service manual. Are you using a lathe, or a truing stand? I assume you're working on a WLA. The information is all available. We'll show it when we build a flywheel assembly.
@@pacificmike9501 hello, I'm working on a WLH. The story is that it's from the few servicar they build for the Netherland military police.
You're right. I took it to a friend machinist and he put it on his lathe with a micro dial tool magnetized on the side.
He put the dial on the surface of the crank bearing and on the side of the sprocket the dial would move .001 and on the side of the oil pump it would move about .003.
It's when he would put it on the tip of the flywheel for side movement that the side of the oil pump would be out 0.007
I'm looking forward to the flywheel rebuild. Hopefully soon. Cheers
Nice, brought back memories of my Dad working on his '49.... Thanx!
Thank you. Just "old stuff."
Well..I don't own a Knuck, but I still enjoy watching your wrenching. Keep em coming! :)
Thank you. You got it.
Looking forward to the next video.👍
Thank you. Just for that, we'll do one.
Great video..... It was 30 degrees in Philly today lol... No riding today
Wishing you an early Spring. Thank you.
i often wondered how you would fix them now i know great video mike
Thank you.
Keep up the awesome wrenching how to’s ! Your evo tear down and rebuild is coming in real handy right now. My 87 cracked a case from one jug to the other. A buddy repaired it and after giving it a bath I’m putting cases back together tomorrow and am hoping to have it all back together by end of weekend.
Cool. Good luck.
Man you are old school awesome
Thanx. Just an "old guy."
It’s those ...Mach speeds 🤘
Always enjoy the videos!
Thank you. I'll try to grow up.
I had to reline front pads on a 74 Sportster I had. That was an interesting experience since I never had to do that before. Made some mistakes with rivets but it worked great once i fixed it. I like your tool much better. I used one of the cheap ones off ebay
Thank you. Good stuff.
Thank you Mike, never saw that done before.
Cool. Thank you.
Thank you Mike...and thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge.... Your awesome brother......👍
Thank you. I try.
Nice video, thanks Mike!
Thank you.
Good morning my friend,another awesome day on the pale blue dot suspended in a light beam🇨🇦
And a "Good Morning" to you.
Awesome, Takes me back to when I was learning how to fix cars, my uncle used to do this all the time!! Thanks for sharing
Thank you.
Absolutely cool.sir you are the real deal.
Thank you.
Good stuff Mike,keep the videos coming
Thank you. You got it.
Thank you Mike. Beautiful job!
Thank you.
Learned something again.👍 Think you only gave five rivets the final tap 😱😂🖖
Thank you. Glad you're watching.
Great videos! I really enjoy your channel! Greetings from Poland.
Thank you. And greetings to you.
I never knew it was possible to replace the lining yourself or even to buy just the linings.
No big deal. There used to be brake shops in every town too. They would rebuild everything in a car's brake system right there in their shop. This is just old stuff done the old way.
Wow, that brought back some early teen memories. That's when I was taught how to re-line brake shoes and ark them. Yea Mike, I'm about as old as you too...lol
Nothing like "Old age and treachery." Thank you.
I had a 47 Knuckle do the same to me, Came up on an intersection hit the brakes and went right thru....So Mike, I know the feeling....Another ? about Brakes, Is I watched a couple of Vids on 50's model Pans and they had the front brake lever on the left hand side, Why was that....
I'm not sure. Most of the old timers I remember, from before I was old, ran them that way. I always put that brake lever on the right. Good question. I think they must have wanted it to not interfere with their throttle hand.
thanks mate, love your style
Thank you.
Thanks for teaching
It's my pleasure
Hey Mike, I love watching your videos. I've been wrenching on and restoring old bikes for years. I have a large collection of mostly European and Japanese motorcycles. I just bought my first vintage Harley, a 1942 WLA flathead. Was wondering if you could a video on setting the ignition timing. Keep up the great work with the videos.
Thank you. It's the same as timing any Harley twin with a "circuit breaker" assembly on it. Just check your service manual for the diagram of the timing mark on the flywheel. This is all shown when we timed the Knucklehead. We don't have a 45 around at the moment. But, we've got quite a few videos.
👍 thanks!
Thank you.
Thats a nice vice.
Thank You. I've had it forever.
Hey Mike. I am subscribed. Dig the videos. Very informative. So I thought maybe you could help me with an issue I have. I own a 1998 Electra Glide classic and have bought a sissy bar and quick release kit but I have no installation instructions for the mount hardware. Any info is appreciated.
Check with your dealer. With a part number, they should be able to request information from the factory.
Some timesi also usejb weld to bond
That one's all yours.
I have to do the same thing for front pads on a 76 Sportster caliper. I cannot seem to find the appropriate tool. I wonder if a conical point punch to get it started, followed by a flat tip punch would work properly? Providing an appropriate back up was used on the flat side of the rivet ? Great video by the way! Thanks!
I've done those. I believe you're speaking of the old CLE brake. To reline those pads, you just have to get a little creative. Sounds like you got it.
I appreciate your feedback, thanks again!
Do you have a video of doing the rivets for the rear sprocket on the brake drum? And thank you for all the videos!
Nope. I don't even have the fixture. You'll probably need to either find one of those Harley setups, or just get creative. When the holes in the drum get bad, I have the new sprocket welded to the drum. Should be done on a lathe to get it centered properly. Or, buy a new drum with a sprocket on it.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the info. My drum holes all look good. Do they put the rivets in cold?
Yes. They are steel rivets and come with a new sprocket.
I use abolt on rivit tohold rivit up an pitch to set rivit tight
Cool.
Use take new brake lining take news shoes an put them shoes for the bike onto the ones that fit you did it like me
Cool.
Great video Mike. Is it possible to tell me what the setting punch face looks like? There are lots of Model A and T punches available but I am relining my ‘45 rear shoes. Curious if there is a pilot on the punch and a concave face. Thx from Ohio.
The set I'm using is an aircraft set and the "anvil" that the head of the rivet rests on is naturally, smooth. The end of the punch has a pilot to keep the rivet open while a "concave circumference" rolls the edge of the rivet over and round.
Great video, very interesting. Are you going to arc those shoes to the drum or let it happen with use? Thanks
Thank you. This time around, no arcing. I'm planning a whole big improvement plan for the old brakes. Just no there yet.
Duel cam drums or something else? I have been considering them for a while for my 41 ULH. I’m curious if they are worth the money. Thanks
A good vise helps
Yes.
Great video as always Mike. What’s going on with your shovelhead? I saw it on your lift in the video.
Mike, perhaps I can help some of your subscribers, Ebay has several Chinese copies of your riveting tool, $24.99. There's usually some genuine old stock items listed as well. I bought mine for $10.99 believe it or not. Quite a deal for sure. Although I haven't tried it personally on the Harleys, but the riviter for the old Model A and Model T Fords might work as well, and they are readily available from several suppliers. Thank you for the very TRADITIONAL repair video. I shudder whenever I am at the dragstrip and I look over in the next lane and my competition removed his rear disc brake rotor and caliper. Long live the drum brake !
Thank you. Just doing some "exploritory" and some little changes.
Thank you. We'll pass on the information.
Hi Mike thanks for the videos I am very green when it comes to motorcycles but learning so much here. my question does not relate to this video you mentioned in another but can't remember where, I have a shovel trike I'm building I'm paraplegic..it has servi car diff.. the diff has a smaller sprocket than the standard shovel.. I don't know if there is a formula but do you have a recommendation for the gear box sprocket size to suit to get the right gearing and I currently have a main drive belt would this suffice or would you say I'd need to convert back to chain and have a different sprocket size there aswell.. sorry for long winded question. Hoping you might be able to help.. cheers
That's a great project and a great question. I assume you're using a 4 speed Shovel head transmission. The final drive ratio is simply the trans sprocket divided into the wheel sprocket size. You'r also dealing with the rear wheel size. This will take some experimenting. But it's commonly done and you'll get there. You didn't tell me enough information. How many teeth on the diff? Write back and tell me. What trans? We should be able to get you in the ball park.
@@pacificmike9501 , thanks for your time I appreciate it.. Yes running a 4 speed, i have two boxes a 3 speed with reverse , and a 4 speed box.. i think ill use the 3 speed though as pretty sure reverse will come in handy with my situation... the diff sprocket has 37 teeth the trans sprocket has 22 teeth on the 3 speed.. not got to the 4 speed one as yet need to take the inner primary cover off(watching your vids to make sure I have it right before doing it).. and the rear wheels are 14x10 inch spoked jag rims-- hope that information helps
some...
Hi Pacific Mike, are these shoes made of asbestos or are they new made? What is the difference if you can tell us? I have a pack of NOS shoes. Thank you.
The lining I installed is reproduction stuff. I don't know what the actual makeup is. I'm sure it's not asbestos. When I can, I've got some ideas to try. Those NOS shoes should be cool. Probably work real well.
Hello Mike, i have one question. What is the Torque-Value for the bolts from an original Rear Brake-Caliper (Banana-Style)? I Drive a 1980 FLH.
The Original Bolts are installed.
Greetings from Germany
Matze
I have no idea. I've always tightened them good and tight. And, Greetings to you.
Pacific Mike Thank you Mike 👋
👍👌😎
Thank You.
man those wear nice & even , no wonder why you just keep relining them.
Yah. I'm coming up with some new ideas there too.
@@pacificmike9501 when ya do ,im sure i will watch
You dont have you make it
Okay.