Everyone always talks about less rotational mass but what I’ve noticed on my mountain bike is that they’re stiffer when turning and that you can hold a line better because the giant 29 inch hoop isn’t flexing to the side when you bank. This is why you said the bike feels snappier. They are just simply stiffer which makes it handle so much better
Maybe it's the 2nd best thing you can do. Still think Tires are the biggest. Changing tires changes the capabilities and ride quality for much less $$. Get tires dialed into your type of riding and make them tubeless. If you've already done that, then you can consider the big spend on carbon hoops.
I suspect you're right. I have a pretty entry-level cross bike that doesn't have tubeless wheels. I went from some Kenda 35mm tires to the Rene Herse 42mm and the bike felt totally different- so much smoother!
Brake pads are the other thing that are such an amazing bang for the buck. Same with cars. Better tires and better brakes will take a plush boring ride into race ready funmobile.
Well you've taken an entry lvl bike double the cost +200$ and never mention maybe looking in the 3600$ market 🤷 because the seatight not be good for you , you might need a setback post? You might be able to find something more suited with a high quality used bike. This was fun but I think you could have sold it better. I understand you probably have an affiliate deal with the wheel brand, but I'd save 900 and go with the Lun carbon wheels.🤔 1300g and 1300$
Dude, I love your videos. Your vibe is so fun. You are so positive and sarcastic at the same time. Thank you for not taking this too seriously and for being yourself.
The midstream comment by the host, that no matter what wheel set you ride, you will get used to it - i think this speaks volumes, since the differential between stock and bling wheels can be measurable, one’s own adaptability is a far greater factor that isn’t always talked about.
I am in this same exact boat. Just ordered some Roval Terra CL wheels for my Grail. And I swapped them out for these exact old DT Swiss wheels. This video just solidifies my decision. Thanks
I think the under rated part of a wheel upgrade is in the hubs. When I upgraded my wheels to more expensive Al wheels I went from 24 to 48 points of engagement. That instantly made the bike feel more responsive.
Interesting questions: can you get lighter tires and get similar effect for much less $? How does the grizl with $$ wheels compare to a bike that equals the cost of the Grizl and the wheels?
Lighter tires definitely feel better in the climbs and sprinting from a stand still. BUT, I will never buy expensive light tires again after too many puncture.
I haven't done the same tire swap side by side on my Kona Sutra LTD, but I've enjoyed by Hunt wheels so far. The hub is better than my stock wheelset and I'd definitely consider getting another set. Though I recently got I9 1/1 rims (~900 a set) and they are definitely nice too for not 2k$
Also not science but I did the same ride last week with my Hunt rims with 2.2" teravail sparwoods and my stock wtb KOM rims with vittoria gravel slicks 38mm and my pace was almost identical. Definitely surprised myself and so, more testing needed. I use the stock rims for pavement/commute and the hunts for the gravel/dirt road efforts. Nice to have a spare set to swap between.
layup, bearings and arodynamics do make a wheel as well. Not just weight. Lots of mid-tier carbon wheels that will get you close to this. Ive run Yoeleo and Winspace (both under $1000), and they are good gravel wheels.
Totally agree, i went from an aerospoke (dont even) to a mavic ellipses on my cinelli & cant even believe the difference! Although there is definitely a "flywheel effect" to heavy back wheels!
8:30 I just got my first gravel bike about a month ago, and it's just a basic bike it has tubed wheels and tires. And I'm doing a workout and I started with the minimum tire pressure listed on the tire, I think it was 60 psi. Well of course that was way too much so I was doing what you were doing right there, letting a little bit out a little bit out a little bit out.... Well eventually I'll let too much out and I'm bottoming out the tire while riding... Luckily I wasn't very far from the car so I'm like riding to the car as light as I can on the bike going please don't flat please don't flat please don't flat. Yeah I really need to get a set of tubeless wheels for this new bike.
As someone who was riding on the Poseidon X stock until the beginning of this summer, and upgraded to the hunt gravel 35mm deep carbon wheel set and new brake calipers, the wheel upgrade is such a game changer!
I remember when I switched the wheels on my Triban RC520. The bike was like you said, was snappier and stuff. The weird but really nice feeling was the stiffnes of the whole package in higher speeds :) and only to add in, I switched from stock Tribans to a built up novatec hubs + DT Swiss rims setup, I can't imagine what's the jump on wheels like this xD
I agree. I upgraded my road bike wheels to a much better set. The bike mechanic recommended it would be the single most important upgrade. After the upgrade, I totally agree. The bike instantly felt like an upgraded model.
What if you did a second video where you upgraded the tires? Can you make the bike feel even better? Would the change in feel be similar to the change you felt with the wheel change?
I would recommend some light DT Swiss aluminum rims, lights spokes (aero can be noisy), some 240 hubs and a local wheel builder. I got some carbon rims on my XC race bike and did not notice the difference.
What portion of what you describe is the most important? Is it the hubs, rim weight, overall weight, or something else? Carbon fiber wheels get a lot of attention. I'm not convinced that CF is the only way to get the desired effect.
Wow, good timing on this video. I just ordered a new set of carbon gravel wheels to upgrade my ride. Was having a hard time justifying the expense but ultimately decided it was worth it. Glad to get some confirmation.
This spring I'll be riding two wheel/tire sets on my rim brake Battaglin San Luca: For training, the supplied Ursus Ivars with 25mm Conti UltraSports. For "event" day, Campagnolo Zondas with Conti 25mm 5000s. The total weight difference is ~.6 kilos in favor of the latter. Since it's both a wheel change and a tire change, I won't be able to attribute whatever difference I experience to either one, but that's ok. I like the US tires for day-to-day because they seem nearly bulletproof and are fast enough to be fun, so there's no need putting a set of 5000s on the more basic Ursus wheels, at least not until the USs are worn out, which at the rate they're going might be never.
Best thing I did to my mid level bike was to add a pair of very expensive Fulcrum wheels. Totally different ride experience, massively improved handling and responsiveness.
I did upgrade stock wheels a lot… it makes a difference and makes your bike a little better… downside is that superlight wheels don’t last as long as - for example - bombproof Mavic Aksium / allroad wheels (Or something in that range). But if you can afford it, go for it!
Couldn't agree more. I'm running Mavic Aksium and they're really bombproof. I've ridden down mountains with them and not a single issue. Yes, they're boat anchors and the spokes keep rusting, but the rear hub is so easy to service!
One of the biggest differences for me was when I put in foam cores. I used to ride tubulars when I was actively racing CX, and running 18psi with a tubular is a hard thing for tubeless tyres to match. But put a foam core in there, and you can get remarkably close. You'll always make it home, too. That foam core has let me limp home from a lot of rides where the tyre went a bit flat.
I've got a new ride coming and fully plan to upgrade the wheel set in fairly short order. I'll likely spend the money for Enve because their warranty is outrageously good, but there are some nice Rovals for less. We shall see.
Nice rims and I definitely like the 25mm inside width - though for that rim depth I'd expect them to be lighter. They are $650 less than my Enve SES 3.4 but weigh the same and look to have a much less aero profile - which I find makes a huge difference even at slow speed on long rides. Re - mounting tubless tires - I used to start at the valve (and still do for tubed wheels - if I ever go back!) but with tubeless, I start opposite the valve. Having the bead fully in the center channel gives a bit more play for fitment on the other side. If I start on the valve side, its junk - especially on narrower wheels - pushes the bead out of the channel. This small change has made a huge difference in how much muscle I have to exert on the final push.
The weight of a carbon wheelset is often disappointingly not as low as you think it might be, simply because of the CNC machined aluminium hubs typically found on high end wheels. You might only lose a pound in weight (I think he said for the set), but you're also moving a significant amount of mass towards the centre of rotation.
100% agree with this. I got a set of White Industry Hubs on HED Belgium G Rims. The bike rides on clouds. Dented a rim, and went back to the stock wheels while it was being rebuilt and saw the difference.
I think your pseudo science really makes sense. The wheels vs the frame&fork weight makes the bike feels absolute different. This year I sold my first gravel proyecto and went for a more sturdy 4130 Chromoly + aluminum fork. They where somewhere about 10.5 kilos and 11 kilos. The first bike was an alloy 6061 frame and the fork a 7071, both weighted around 2.5 kilos. The newer set up (fyxation quiver X) felt absolutely different. Using the same rims (MD25 by Alex rims) and changing the hubs for nova tech 100 and 142 mm 32h. As you said, the most of the weight is in the frame and seat post. When the relation between them changes also the feeling while riding. Love your content!
Affordable: tpu tubes (generic brand $15 each or pair?) and good lighter tires (120-180 or higher tpi; oil e sales $35-50 each tire) can take 1/2 pound off each cheap stock wheel and make a noticeable difference. Got my cheap stock wheels down to 8.5# with a 10 speed grx400 cassette and 6-bolt rotors (weighed today after watching g this video)
I have a set of carbon bontrager wheels and Continental 5000 tires for the road rides on my gravel bike and the difference between them and a gravel alloy wheels running Vittoria Terreno Zeros is huge
What I wish more reviews did is talking about the weight limits of equipment. I don't care if they're 1kg lighter if I can't use them at 120-130kg load weight.
I changed from the standard Roval wheels on my Roubaix to a set of 50mm deep carbon rims-the carbon wheels were slightly heavier than the Rovals, but were provably faster. Case in point a buddy who I ride with a lot is always freewheeling down hill than me-when I changed my wheels I would freewheel past him on our test hill-right up until he bought a pair the same…….
when i started cycling and upgraded the stock wheels on my caad8 to cheap vision team 30, that was SUCH a jump in ride quality and speed. after a crash i replaced my rear wheel with a zipp 302. the back alone made the bike feel sooo much better, again
Good video. Was looking for one just like this. Also, 11x36 on the back? Whew, that makes climbing difficult. What does it have up front? I’m using a 42 up front and a 12x42 on the back. I may be using the same wheels as you on my Diverge. I am going to upgrade next season. I can tackle the difficult hills, but I find it difficult towards the end of a gravel ride with a few hills left. Carbon fiber wheels always make a bike better.
I got the same bike 2 weeks ago, replaced the stock 45mm G-One bite tyres with 40mm Tufo Thundero all rounder to suit the road conditions I usually ride, it’s flying, feels so much better. I may change to carbon wheels a few years later, but so far I’m pretty happy with it.
Hey Dustin! I'm only a beginner in the world of cycling and I don't have the experience of a long term rider, but on both my 2 buidls I went for the DT SWISS GR1600 for the gravel and the HUNT Race XC for my mtb. Both sets of wheels are around 1.5kg naked with valves, and are around 500€ there in France. Of course my mtb wheels are heavier due to larger discs and meatier tires, but they feel really good, I wonder how it would feel with more basic wheels with inner tubes :)
Great video. I upgraded my 700c wheels and inadvertently punked myself into having to upgrade my 650b’s too. Like you say, it’s all about the ride feel. But quote of the week… it tastes like hose.
Curious, I upgraded my wheels for much much less, but the weight saving was similar. I sent them back, didn't feel any difference but I liked the hub sound. Changing my bike now and it will come with heavier Fortis 26 rim and pro 5 Hun wheels. I'm curious to see how it feels on the road.
I have done this my XC bike and don't even go carbon, but went with DT 240s. With 2.35 tires the bike is lighter., bu more importantly the ride quality is butter. With quality wheelset the bike just want to go. Hubs, rims and spoke count and shape play a role. Yeah it is costly but it almost like riding a new bike.
I upgraded my stock wheels (Giant) for a Chinese brand - Winspace - for about 1500 dollars. Suddenly the bike is quicker and climbs like a demon. I totally agree with your comments. A wheel upgrade, though not cheap, is a big leap in the right direction.
Dustin, great vids. I did a similar upgrade to my ribble gravel bike - similar level to the Grizl. BUT I spent 500eu on some great Scribe Race D-wide (alloy) - 1.44 kilos - almost the same as those 2k carbon ones - with super quick hubs - Why wouldn’t it be as good? For a lot less cash
Interesting contrast from some other video I saw where the effect of rim weight was modelled for road cycling (criterium racing and climbing)... For criterium, it made barely any difference, due to very little braking or slow turning, and for climbing, it was the same as weight anywhere else on the bike? Aero made a big difference for the fast criterium, totally worth the weight. But on trails, the game is different!
Great video as usual! Did I miss something or were the carbon wheels 1lb lighter on their own (4lb vs 3lb) *and* 2 pounds lighter when built-up (9lbs vs 7 lbs). Whatsup?
Been a subscriber for a while, love the videos. A question, do you cover your gravel bike when traveling by car on a bike rack? Wondering what suggestions you might have. Velosocks work, but been thru 2 quickly, the zippers rip pretty quickly. Thanks
I just today actually had a first ride on some wheels for my grizl sl7 upgraded the DT Swiss LN wheels that came stock with some hunt carbon race 25 wheels much cheaper then the wheels you used but couldn’t believe how much nicer the ride was more damped faster smoother I was skeptical but you’re right they seriously upgraded my ride experience it’s an upgrade you really can feel and enjoy
Have your Hunt wheels held up? All I see online is people trashing them as unreliable. Hunt has a sale right now where I can pick up a gravel wheelset for under a grand and it comes with free tires, hard to beat.
I had some mega-discounted carbon wheels on my mountain bike. They felt very fast and responsive, but very harsh. I also ended up breaking the rear wheel :( I ended up sticking with a mid tier aluminum in the rear and the carbon in the front. Generally I agree that wheels make a big difference. Not as much as tires on a mountain bike, but up there.
This is super helpful to read. Someone mentioned that the wheels I was using which are Fusion Fiber are actually less harsh than carbon. I have yet to do a back to back but could be really interesting to try.
Yeah, I just got an Orbea Orca and the stock alloy Fulcrum wheels were the one thing holding it back. They were sluggish and heavy to get up to speed. I swapped them out with some carbon DT Swiss wheels I had from my old bike and all of a sudden it was a lot livelier even though these wheels were only a little lighter. Instant upgrade in ride quality, feel, weight, and speed.
I hate that the most manufacturer sell their bikes with this midtier aluminum wheels. You pay 4 to 500 bugs for wheels you dont want. Why not much cheaper wheels?
@@nerigarcia7116 I would like the possibility to create a bike like a dell computer while not paying extra for it. It’s not just the wheels, it’s the same with the saddle and so on.
As always great entertaining video. Yeah wheels make all the difference. I did the same on my Cutthroat. Bad stock wheels = terrible ride. Great Cantù carbon wheels = fantastic ride!
I got the canyon grzl 6 2x and like your shakedown ride stated saddle/tires made a huge difference for ride and comfort. Didn’t get it to be a big performance bike but maybe it’s worth the bling wheels?!
I was shocked by what the wheels did! Upgraded wheels will stick around as well they can move to other bikes if you end up changing things up...food for thought.
I upgraded the stock DT Swiss 1800's on my Grzl CF SL 7 1by to Roval Terra C. Not the lightest but the 400 gram savings only cost $750. Roval wheels are a great value upgrade.
@dustinklein_ BUT… in my experience the hubs played a huge difference when upgraded both gravel and road. Specially maintaining speed in the flat and the descents… oh the descents they improved indeed (I mean, hubs over rims)
Wow Life can be serendipitous. Im a sparky right, working in this lady's garage, bike parts errywhere. She explains that her husband started Paul's Bicycle Way of Life bike shop, Eugene Oregon!😮 I stayed like an extra 2 hours checking out his stash of man whips. His fav, a 2000s era Mercier road bike, all original, and super dependable. Dude was like 75 and rode 30+ miles a week! What about the Slingshot? A ride with no bottom bar, just an aircraft cable. Strange suspension anyone?
I’ve got a grizl that’s a step or two nicer than the one you featured, but is specked with the same wheels. I’ve put thousands of miles on the bike and always wondered how it would feel with nice wheels. I’ll pay posting and film a short form video that you can do whatever you like with in exchange for those sweet wheels! Regardless nice video.
Lite wheels is important for racing cyclists that need fast acceleration but you loose the flywheel effect which maybe more useful for non-racing cyclists. Heavier wheels will roll better over rough ground because of the flywheel effect. Light wheels will loose momentum on every bump but will accelerate better than heavy wheels
I wonder how much better hubs impact the overall ride instead of upgrade the whole wheelset. Maybe a better hub, with better engagement and that spins freely should make you put less effort and have a better experience. I know that rotational weight impacts a lot, but maybe these minor tweaks could also improve your ride
Can't afford the wheel set mentioned in this video. Does anyone know of a wheel set that is better then what comes with the bike but cheaper then the wheel set used in the video?
How many spokes on those fancy schmancy nancies? Would you endorse this wheelset for a the serious clyde crowd? It ain't my hoops that bog me down on the climbs... Also, your ride on the OEM wheels was 18 minutes faster... that muddies the wattage difference.
The rims are way lighter, but the hubs are I9 high end CNC machined aluminium. So, heavier (& way stronger) than stock. Think of it like losing a little bit of weight overall, but also mass centralising the wheels as well.
less rotational weight = lower gyroscopic force so the wheels definitely would feel more snappy/responsive , could gain alot more weight savings from the rubber , id say find the lightest tires on the market/available to you and do a re comparison , better yet throw science out the window and run the 2kusd hoops with the older heavy tires you used in the video and compare that to the cheaper dt swiss hoops with the lightweight tires
First 2 days on carbon fibre wheels. Biggest noticeable difference anything made in my ride. Smoother stiff more responsive and also quiet. Money well spent.
I wonder how his opinion would change if this was a blind test where he was judging completely by ride feel and also not getting a kickback from forge and bond. Placebo effect is real.
I can't say for those specific wheel, but it was noticeable when I put on some light carbon wheels. I also beat the crap out of them and they're still running perfectly true.
Yeah I wouldn't trust this. I've seen enough audio reviewers falling in the same trap. Think something is better + justify the huge costs = wow unbelievable results. Add in the fact that he never said that doesn't get benefits for this video from the manufacturer...
👨🏻🔬Check my Pseudoscience on Strava: bit.ly/DkleinStrava
Everyone always talks about less rotational mass but what I’ve noticed on my mountain bike is that they’re stiffer when turning and that you can hold a line better because the giant 29 inch hoop isn’t flexing to the side when you bank. This is why you said the bike feels snappier. They are just simply stiffer which makes it handle so much better
😊😊😊
What is the purpose of using wider tire on front wheel than in the back?
Have you done a video focusing on hard pack gravel riding? Where the technical parts of the ride are fewer but the distances are much greater?
Maybe it's the 2nd best thing you can do. Still think Tires are the biggest. Changing tires changes the capabilities and ride quality for much less $$. Get tires dialed into your type of riding and make them tubeless. If you've already done that, then you can consider the big spend on carbon hoops.
I suspect you're right. I have a pretty entry-level cross bike that doesn't have tubeless wheels. I went from some Kenda 35mm tires to the Rene Herse 42mm and the bike felt totally different- so much smoother!
Brake pads are the other thing that are such an amazing bang for the buck. Same with cars. Better tires and better brakes will take a plush boring ride into race ready funmobile.
These are already great tires but getting dialed tires will be dependent on every ride you do. These are better wheels under all scenarios
Well you've taken an entry lvl bike double the cost +200$ and never mention maybe looking in the 3600$ market 🤷 because the seatight not be good for you , you might need a setback post? You might be able to find something more suited with a high quality used bike. This was fun but I think you could have sold it better. I understand you probably have an affiliate deal with the wheel brand, but I'd save 900 and go with the Lun carbon wheels.🤔 1300g and 1300$
Maybe tire pressure is the first improvement at no cost.
Dude, I love your videos. Your vibe is so fun. You are so positive and sarcastic at the same time. Thank you for not taking this too seriously and for being yourself.
@6:30 😂😂 when you colored in the "O"! Bahaha. Nice comedic touch.
The midstream comment by the host, that no matter what wheel set you ride, you will get used to it - i think this speaks volumes, since the differential between stock and bling wheels can be measurable, one’s own adaptability is a far greater factor that isn’t always talked about.
I am in this same exact boat. Just ordered some Roval Terra CL wheels for my Grail. And I swapped them out for these exact old DT Swiss wheels. This video just solidifies my decision. Thanks
I think the under rated part of a wheel upgrade is in the hubs. When I upgraded my wheels to more expensive Al wheels I went from 24 to 48 points of engagement. That instantly made the bike feel more responsive.
Thanks
THANK YOU Neil 'Player" Pook 😜
One of the best bike TH-cam channels.
It would be interesting to add all the weight back on, but to the frame, and then see how it rides
Taking weight off the wheels is much more effective than the frame, etc...
Interesting questions: can you get lighter tires and get similar effect for much less $? How does the grizl with $$ wheels compare to a bike that equals the cost of the Grizl and the wheels?
Yes you can. It won't be as much weight if you're starting at good tires, but stock tires to 120 tpi tires will be a difference. Especially for feel
Lighter tires definitely feel better in the climbs and sprinting from a stand still. BUT, I will never buy expensive light tires again after too many puncture.
As with similar videos I'm always wondering how much gain you get from a good-but-less blingy wheelset like the Hunt ones.
I haven't done the same tire swap side by side on my Kona Sutra LTD, but I've enjoyed by Hunt wheels so far. The hub is better than my stock wheelset and I'd definitely consider getting another set. Though I recently got I9 1/1 rims (~900 a set) and they are definitely nice too for not 2k$
Also not science but I did the same ride last week with my Hunt rims with 2.2" teravail sparwoods and my stock wtb KOM rims with vittoria gravel slicks 38mm and my pace was almost identical. Definitely surprised myself and so, more testing needed. I use the stock rims for pavement/commute and the hunts for the gravel/dirt road efforts. Nice to have a spare set to swap between.
I would love a disclaimer when you are riding free stuff in a test. I have no problem with it, but I want to know
layup, bearings and arodynamics do make a wheel as well. Not just weight. Lots of mid-tier carbon wheels that will get you close to this. Ive run Yoeleo and Winspace (both under $1000), and they are good gravel wheels.
Totally agree, i went from an aerospoke (dont even) to a mavic ellipses on my cinelli & cant even believe the difference! Although there is definitely a "flywheel effect" to heavy back wheels!
8:30 I just got my first gravel bike about a month ago, and it's just a basic bike it has tubed wheels and tires. And I'm doing a workout and I started with the minimum tire pressure listed on the tire, I think it was 60 psi. Well of course that was way too much so I was doing what you were doing right there, letting a little bit out a little bit out a little bit out.... Well eventually I'll let too much out and I'm bottoming out the tire while riding... Luckily I wasn't very far from the car so I'm like riding to the car as light as I can on the bike going please don't flat please don't flat please don't flat. Yeah I really need to get a set of tubeless wheels for this new bike.
Brought back some Not A Mechanic vibes! Love it!!
As someone who was riding on the Poseidon X stock until the beginning of this summer, and upgraded to the hunt gravel 35mm deep carbon wheel set and new brake calipers, the wheel upgrade is such a game changer!
I remember when I switched the wheels on my Triban RC520. The bike was like you said, was snappier and stuff. The weird but really nice feeling was the stiffnes of the whole package in higher speeds :) and only to add in, I switched from stock Tribans to a built up novatec hubs + DT Swiss rims setup, I can't imagine what's the jump on wheels like this xD
Thanks for sharing
I agree. I upgraded my road bike wheels to a much better set. The bike mechanic recommended it would be the single most important upgrade. After the upgrade, I totally agree. The bike instantly felt like an upgraded model.
What if you did a second video where you upgraded the tires? Can you make the bike feel even better? Would the change in feel be similar to the change you felt with the wheel change?
I would recommend some light DT Swiss aluminum rims, lights spokes (aero can be noisy), some 240 hubs and a local wheel builder. I got some carbon rims on my XC race bike and did not notice the difference.
What portion of what you describe is the most important? Is it the hubs, rim weight, overall weight, or something else? Carbon fiber wheels get a lot of attention. I'm not convinced that CF is the only way to get the desired effect.
It would be really cool if you did a review of the Lauf Seigla
@@robd003 cool bike
Yo D, start opposite the valve and always finish at the valve. Lots more real estate to bend and move that way. Science said. Love ya.
💯!
Wheels make a night and day difference. You have to experience it to believe it. Will completely transform a bike.
Wow, good timing on this video. I just ordered a new set of carbon gravel wheels to upgrade my ride. Was having a hard time justifying the expense but ultimately decided it was worth it. Glad to get some confirmation.
You are going to be stoked!
I would love to hear what you think after setting them up.
This spring I'll be riding two wheel/tire sets on my rim brake Battaglin San Luca: For training, the supplied Ursus Ivars with 25mm Conti UltraSports. For "event" day, Campagnolo Zondas with Conti 25mm 5000s. The total weight difference is ~.6 kilos in favor of the latter. Since it's both a wheel change and a tire change, I won't be able to attribute whatever difference I experience to either one, but that's ok. I like the US tires for day-to-day because they seem nearly bulletproof and are fast enough to be fun, so there's no need putting a set of 5000s on the more basic Ursus wheels, at least not until the USs are worn out, which at the rate they're going might be never.
Best thing I did to my mid level bike was to add a pair of very expensive Fulcrum wheels. Totally different ride experience, massively improved handling and responsiveness.
That’s what I’m talking about!!!!!
I did upgrade stock wheels a lot… it makes a difference and makes your bike a little better… downside is that superlight wheels don’t last as long as - for example - bombproof Mavic Aksium / allroad wheels (Or something in that range). But if you can afford it, go for it!
Couldn't agree more. I'm running Mavic Aksium and they're really bombproof. I've ridden down mountains with them and not a single issue. Yes, they're boat anchors and the spokes keep rusting, but the rear hub is so easy to service!
I completely agree about the wheel upgrade. Makes a huge difference on a road bike, especially when climbing. Night and day.
One of the biggest differences for me was when I put in foam cores. I used to ride tubulars when I was actively racing CX, and running 18psi with a tubular is a hard thing for tubeless tyres to match. But put a foam core in there, and you can get remarkably close. You'll always make it home, too. That foam core has let me limp home from a lot of rides where the tyre went a bit flat.
I've got a new ride coming and fully plan to upgrade the wheel set in fairly short order. I'll likely spend the money for Enve because their warranty is outrageously good, but there are some nice Rovals for less. We shall see.
Both are solid options!
Nice rims and I definitely like the 25mm inside width - though for that rim depth I'd expect them to be lighter. They are $650 less than my Enve SES 3.4 but weigh the same and look to have a much less aero profile - which I find makes a huge difference even at slow speed on long rides.
Re - mounting tubless tires -
I used to start at the valve (and still do for tubed wheels - if I ever go back!) but with tubeless, I start opposite the valve.
Having the bead fully in the center channel gives a bit more play for fitment on the other side. If I start on the valve side, its junk - especially on narrower wheels - pushes the bead out of the channel. This small change has made a huge difference in how much muscle I have to exert on the final push.
The weight of a carbon wheelset is often disappointingly not as low as you think it might be, simply because of the CNC machined aluminium hubs typically found on high end wheels.
You might only lose a pound in weight (I think he said for the set), but you're also moving a significant amount of mass towards the centre of rotation.
100% agree with this. I got a set of White Industry Hubs on HED Belgium G Rims. The bike rides on clouds. Dented a rim, and went back to the stock wheels while it was being rebuilt and saw the difference.
I think your pseudo science really makes sense. The wheels vs the frame&fork weight makes the bike feels absolute different. This year I sold my first gravel proyecto and went for a more sturdy 4130 Chromoly + aluminum fork. They where somewhere about 10.5 kilos and 11 kilos. The first bike was an alloy 6061 frame and the fork a 7071, both weighted around 2.5 kilos. The newer set up (fyxation quiver X) felt absolutely different. Using the same rims (MD25 by Alex rims) and changing the hubs for nova tech 100 and 142 mm 32h.
As you said, the most of the weight is in the frame and seat post. When the relation between them changes also the feeling while riding.
Love your content!
Affordable: tpu tubes (generic brand $15 each or pair?) and good lighter tires (120-180 or higher tpi; oil e sales $35-50 each tire) can take 1/2 pound off each cheap stock wheel and make a noticeable difference. Got my cheap stock wheels down to 8.5# with a 10 speed grx400 cassette and 6-bolt rotors (weighed today after watching g this video)
I'm a complete Berd wheel convert. I have Berd wheels on my MTB (HAWK27) and my gravel bike (GVX25) and they feel phenomenal on chatter
Ive been curious to try these wheels as well. thanks for the insight
I have a set of carbon bontrager wheels and Continental 5000 tires for the road rides on my gravel bike and the difference between them and a gravel alloy wheels running Vittoria Terreno Zeros is huge
On a car, weight that you drop from the wheels is multiplied by 10. Dont know if that translates to a bike but i dont see why not.
What I wish more reviews did is talking about the weight limits of equipment. I don't care if they're 1kg lighter if I can't use them at 120-130kg load weight.
Agreed! I'm six-foot-six and usually weigh 270 pounds; throw in 26 to 32 pounds for my bike and most wheelsets are verboten.
I changed from the standard Roval wheels on my Roubaix to a set of 50mm deep carbon rims-the carbon wheels were slightly heavier than the Rovals, but were provably faster. Case in point a buddy who I ride with a lot is always freewheeling down hill than me-when I changed my wheels I would freewheel past him on our test hill-right up until he bought a pair the same…….
Man, I wouldn't spend that much on an entire road bike.
I'm thinking about upgrading my mtb wheels but not for that kind of scratch 😮
Hi. For not much cash, id recommend the hunt trailwide wheels. They're about £360. Not sure about shipping prices to usa but they're ace!
when i started cycling and upgraded the stock wheels on my caad8 to cheap vision team 30, that was SUCH a jump in ride quality and speed.
after a crash i replaced my rear wheel with a zipp 302. the back alone made the bike feel sooo much better, again
Good video. Was looking for one just like this. Also, 11x36 on the back? Whew, that makes climbing difficult. What does it have up front? I’m using a 42 up front and a 12x42 on the back. I may be using the same wheels as you on my Diverge. I am going to upgrade next season. I can tackle the difficult hills, but I find it difficult towards the end of a gravel ride with a few hills left. Carbon fiber wheels always make a bike better.
I got the same bike 2 weeks ago, replaced the stock 45mm G-One bite tyres with 40mm Tufo Thundero all rounder to suit the road conditions I usually ride, it’s flying, feels so much better. I may change to carbon wheels a few years later, but so far I’m pretty happy with it.
I ordered the carbon model last month, came cracked, still waiting for the refund. Canyon customer support is lazy af and not helping at all.
@@Jean-jk4zvsorry to hear that, hope canyon can fix that soon
Hey!! What trail is that first trail you ride at like 2 minutes in!? Is that up in forest park? absolutely gorgeous, i must ride it!! great video!
Hey Dustin! I'm only a beginner in the world of cycling and I don't have the experience of a long term rider, but on both my 2 buidls I went for the DT SWISS GR1600 for the gravel and the HUNT Race XC for my mtb. Both sets of wheels are around 1.5kg naked with valves, and are around 500€ there in France. Of course my mtb wheels are heavier due to larger discs and meatier tires, but they feel really good, I wonder how it would feel with more basic wheels with inner tubes :)
Great video. I upgraded my 700c wheels and inadvertently punked myself into having to upgrade my 650b’s too. Like you say, it’s all about the ride feel. But quote of the week… it tastes like hose.
🤣😂😭
@@EverythingsBeenDoneClosed Caption spelt it 'Hoes'. Even funnier.
are the stock wheels carbon? I think the main difference would be material/stiffness rather than 1 pound rot.weight
Curious, I upgraded my wheels for much much less, but the weight saving was similar. I sent them back, didn't feel any difference but I liked the hub sound.
Changing my bike now and it will come with heavier Fortis 26 rim and pro 5 Hun wheels. I'm curious to see how it feels on the road.
would it not be cheaper to buy a higher end bike with better wheels?
I have done this my XC bike and don't even go carbon, but went with DT 240s. With 2.35 tires the bike is lighter., bu more importantly the ride quality is butter. With quality wheelset the bike just want to go. Hubs, rims and spoke count and shape play a role. Yeah it is costly but it almost like riding a new bike.
I upgraded my stock wheels (Giant) for a Chinese brand - Winspace - for about 1500 dollars. Suddenly the bike is quicker and climbs like a demon. I totally agree with your comments. A wheel upgrade, though not cheap, is a big leap in the right direction.
Man your videos are the best. Always.
I upgraded with Zipp 303S. Great weels for less than 900€. Highly recommend them for gravel and road.
For me the hub engagement is important big difference when you are instantly pedaling
Dustin, great vids. I did a similar upgrade to my ribble gravel bike - similar level to the Grizl. BUT I spent 500eu on some great Scribe Race D-wide (alloy) - 1.44 kilos - almost the same as those 2k carbon ones - with super quick hubs - Why wouldn’t it be as good? For a lot less cash
How do you like the Scribes? I'm looking at a set (thus watchign this video!)
Interesting contrast from some other video I saw where the effect of rim weight was modelled for road cycling (criterium racing and climbing)... For criterium, it made barely any difference, due to very little braking or slow turning, and for climbing, it was the same as weight anywhere else on the bike? Aero made a big difference for the fast criterium, totally worth the weight. But on trails, the game is different!
Great video as usual! Did I miss something or were the carbon wheels 1lb lighter on their own (4lb vs 3lb) *and* 2 pounds lighter when built-up (9lbs vs 7 lbs). Whatsup?
Been a subscriber for a while, love the videos. A question, do you cover your gravel bike when traveling by car on a bike rack? Wondering what suggestions you might have. Velosocks work, but been thru 2 quickly, the zippers rip pretty quickly. Thanks
I just today actually had a first ride on some wheels for my grizl sl7 upgraded the DT Swiss LN wheels that came stock with some hunt carbon race 25 wheels much cheaper then the wheels you used but couldn’t believe how much nicer the ride was more damped faster smoother I was skeptical but you’re right they seriously upgraded my ride experience it’s an upgrade you really can feel and enjoy
Have your Hunt wheels held up? All I see online is people trashing them as unreliable. Hunt has a sale right now where I can pick up a gravel wheelset for under a grand and it comes with free tires, hard to beat.
I bought some Ryet wheels for far less with similar spec, made a massive difference!
That is great! Do you recall if the Ryet have "fusion fiber"?
@@EverythingsBeenDone sorry no idea, brought from their Aliexpress store with upgraded spokes and bearings, so far so good but I only weight 58kg
I had some mega-discounted carbon wheels on my mountain bike. They felt very fast and responsive, but very harsh. I also ended up breaking the rear wheel :( I ended up sticking with a mid tier aluminum in the rear and the carbon in the front.
Generally I agree that wheels make a big difference. Not as much as tires on a mountain bike, but up there.
This is super helpful to read.
Someone mentioned that the wheels I was using which are Fusion Fiber are actually less harsh than carbon.
I have yet to do a back to back but could be really interesting to try.
I have those dt swiss wheels and with the right tyre they are great
Yeah, I just got an Orbea Orca and the stock alloy Fulcrum wheels were the one thing holding it back. They were sluggish and heavy to get up to speed. I swapped them out with some carbon DT Swiss wheels I had from my old bike and all of a sudden it was a lot livelier even though these wheels were only a little lighter. Instant upgrade in ride quality, feel, weight, and speed.
I hate that the most manufacturer sell their bikes with this midtier aluminum wheels. You pay 4 to 500 bugs for wheels you dont want. Why not much cheaper wheels?
@@sorenludwig3978Yeah, I'd rather they give you the option to upgrade the wheelset.
@@nerigarcia7116 I would like the possibility to create a bike like a dell computer while not paying extra for it. It’s not just the wheels, it’s the same with the saddle and so on.
How much do you weight? 70 kgs? I wonder what difference would it make with omeone like 100 105 kg heavy. Nice video. Cool content.
I bought a set of Farsports wheels for under $1000 with DT260 hubs weighing 1250g. Shaved off 1.5 LBS; incredible!
What about the hubs? Does that make a difference?
As always great entertaining video. Yeah wheels make all the difference. I did the same on my Cutthroat. Bad stock wheels = terrible ride. Great Cantù carbon wheels = fantastic ride!
Curious what the hub engagement difference is between two wheelsets?
I changed from cheapie Shimano wheels to Mavic Crossmax on my MTB. It transformed the bike :)
It's not just cutting a pound from bike mass, it's cutting a pound of *moving* mass, that needs a push for movement and stoppage.
I got the canyon grzl 6 2x and like your shakedown ride stated saddle/tires made a huge difference for ride and comfort. Didn’t get it to be a big performance bike but maybe it’s worth the bling wheels?!
I was shocked by what the wheels did! Upgraded wheels will stick around as well they can move to other bikes if you end up changing things up...food for thought.
I upgraded the stock DT Swiss 1800's on my Grzl CF SL 7 1by to Roval Terra C. Not the lightest but the 400 gram savings only cost $750. Roval wheels are a great value upgrade.
@dustinklein_ BUT… in my experience the hubs played a huge difference when upgraded both gravel and road. Specially maintaining speed in the flat and the descents… oh the descents they improved indeed
(I mean, hubs over rims)
I’m interested in switching to sealant and this was helpful. How much sealant should I put in each tire?
I put some alloy Easton wheels on my crux with an ethirteen cassette and took off the same weight…
Yes and the best part about fancy wheels is finding them used is way easier (IMO).
I learned this when I was a teenager 50 years ago.
Yes. Upgrading the wheels is the quickest and best upgrade.
Those who KNOW!!
Wow
Life can be serendipitous. Im a sparky right, working in this lady's garage, bike parts errywhere. She explains that her husband started Paul's Bicycle Way of Life bike shop, Eugene Oregon!😮
I stayed like an extra 2 hours checking out his stash of man whips. His fav, a 2000s era Mercier road bike, all original, and super dependable. Dude was like 75 and rode 30+ miles a week!
What about the Slingshot? A ride with no bottom bar, just an aircraft cable. Strange suspension anyone?
Did canyon copy gt triangle frame ? Its a dope rig. Color is cool as well.
I’ve got a grizl that’s a step or two nicer than the one you featured, but is specked with the same wheels. I’ve put thousands of miles on the bike and always wondered how it would feel with nice wheels. I’ll pay posting and film a short form video that you can do whatever you like with in exchange for those sweet wheels! Regardless nice video.
Lite wheels is important for racing cyclists that need fast acceleration but you loose the flywheel effect which maybe more useful for non-racing cyclists. Heavier wheels will roll better over rough ground because of the flywheel effect. Light wheels will loose momentum on every bump but will accelerate better than heavy wheels
Always dig the mix on your vids
Just don’t eat as much.😀
On a MTB cross country yep. More flickable.
You can get the same results with $1200 carbon wheels. Or similar wheels on sale.
Throw on Rene Herses in the light casing and it’ll double that feel over the Canyon’s stock tires!
Until you run over a pebble and all the air comes out of the tire. You can’t keep air in those things.
I wonder how much better hubs impact the overall ride instead of upgrade the whole wheelset. Maybe a better hub, with better engagement and that spins freely should make you put less effort and have a better experience. I know that rotational weight impacts a lot, but maybe these minor tweaks could also improve your ride
Bike part reviews have some similarities wit audiophile reviews 😂
Can't afford the wheel set mentioned in this video. Does anyone know of a wheel set that is better then what comes with the bike but cheaper then the wheel set used in the video?
Finish at the valve, don’t start there! (When mounting tires)
Yes! All that energy needed to slow down those heavy wheels. This is what has been sapping all my strength on ridiculously long rides.
Yes!!
How many spokes on those fancy schmancy nancies? Would you endorse this wheelset for a the serious clyde crowd? It ain't my hoops that bog me down on the climbs... Also, your ride on the OEM wheels was 18 minutes faster... that muddies the wattage difference.
So what about a pair of lightest alloy rims you can find and save 2 000$ ? Its not impossible to find under 400gramms rim
I was REALLY hoping you won’t find a difference, especially after only being one pound lighter….damn!!! Thanks for the great videos, love your work
The rims are way lighter, but the hubs are I9 high end CNC machined aluminium. So, heavier (& way stronger) than stock.
Think of it like losing a little bit of weight overall, but also mass centralising the wheels as well.
less rotational weight = lower gyroscopic force so the wheels definitely would feel more snappy/responsive , could gain alot more weight savings from the rubber , id say find the lightest tires on the market/available to you and do a re comparison , better yet throw science out the window and run the 2kusd hoops with the older heavy tires you used in the video and compare that to the cheaper dt swiss hoops with the lightweight tires
I feel like I'm going crazy, but pretty sure you were reading that scale wrong. The original wheelset did not weigh 9lb 0.5oz, it was 9lb 5oz, right?
Would the new wheels still be able to handle that extra weight Incase you wanna back back or it doesn’t matter?
They would be able to handle the extra weight.
First 2 days on carbon fibre wheels. Biggest noticeable difference anything made in my ride. Smoother stiff more responsive and also quiet. Money well spent.
Great edit, can't agree more wheels are the best upgrade you can make. Do you think the hubs make any difference? 🚴✨✨
I wonder how his opinion would change if this was a blind test where he was judging completely by ride feel and also not getting a kickback from forge and bond. Placebo effect is real.
I can't say for those specific wheel, but it was noticeable when I put on some light carbon wheels. I also beat the crap out of them and they're still running perfectly true.
Yeah I wouldn't trust this. I've seen enough audio reviewers falling in the same trap. Think something is better + justify the huge costs = wow unbelievable results. Add in the fact that he never said that doesn't get benefits for this video from the manufacturer...
@@bochiebochie Lighter wheels' effect on a bike's handling is pretty significant
Speaking of fixed gear crew.. when we gonna see you ride fixed on some trails like this? Or have you already and I've just missed it 🤔
Ha,
I love that ending animation
It always makes me smile 🙂