For anyone trying to figure this out, keep in mind that the elements won't have power at the same time. Typically the upper element gets power first. Once the set temp is reached it will send power to the lower element. A bad upper element can cause a unit to not heat at all. To check, set upper thermostat to lowest setting and allow to heat. Once to temp it should send voltage through to the lower tstat. Hope this helps.
Thanks I surely appreciate you comment as I didn't know how to check the thermostats and my mother's water heater wasn't working properly so I replaced both elements and thermostats I bought them in a package deal ! Now I know how to check the thermostats after reading your comment ! The water heater is about 15 yrs old so I felt replacing both was a good idea ! Now she has plenty of hot water !
This video is great. I've replaced lots of hot water tanks and even more elements but this is the first time I've had a thermostat go bad. I knew how to test the elements but not the thermostats. When my elements tested fine I went to youtube (as usual) and luckily your video was the first one. I saw I was already a subscriber so that means you've helped me in the past. Your video was very clear and your explainations clear. Thank You, Steve
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you for explaining how these parts are supposed to work and how to test each individual unit. It is much more clear when you understand how the part is supposed to work what exactly you are testing for.
After turning breaker off and BEFORE REMOVING POWER CONDUCTORS CHECK FOR VOLTAGE PRESENT AT POWER TERMINALS, CONDUCTOR TO CONDUCTOR AND CONDUCTOR GROUND! The breakers may be labeled incorrectly or you could have a faulty breaker. Remember all that metal you're working around is grounded!
Use a Volt Ohm Meter to test correct voltage. I used a Non Contact Voltage Tester Pen that lit up red for voltage present. Problem was that it wasn’t enough power. My circuit breaker was faulty. After replacing 30 amp breaker, I got my 220 volts AC and hot water.
I have to say, this channel rocks! I've repaired things from chemical dispenser on pressure washer to water heater thermostat, and saved bunches of $$$$"..thanks y'all..2 thumbs up!
Thank you for the video I've got 2 new thermostats coming into new heating elements coming also. Just doing a little maintenance hasn't been touched in 8 years
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
1. Did you have the correct elements and T-stats installed when you replaced them? Voltages can be different on the coils of those elements. 2. Did you install the t-stats and elements correctly? Be sure that the t-stat with the red button is on top and the smaller of the two is on the bottom and that you've wired it just as before. 3. Did you ensure that you have the correct amount of voltage being supplied to the heater with the use of a multimeter/volt meter? Sometimes other switches (breakers, disconnects, fuses) can break the power before it reaches the heater from the panel due to poor connection points. Breakers can go bad as well as disconnects which can sometimes have fuses inside in the event that something made the fuses blow. You may have already solved your problem by now, but you can try these things in the future if you have problems again.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Great VIDEO. thank you. My water ( kitchen faucet) was SUPER HOT...(usually not ). Now its very very not even warm plus no more hot water...?? Is this a possible sign the thermostat needing replaced. UNIT is 14 years old.........Thank you again
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
I've installed a new 2 element thermostat following your instructions. Double checked all connections and verified it was pressed firmly against the tank. The new thermostat is doing nothing. Verified continuity as well on the new thermostat prior to install. Same exact thermostat as one replaced. I've since put the old thermostat back in. But now I've noticed it now has continuity whereas before one of the screws for the upper element did not. Now it does. Anyways, I had to turn the thermostat dial all the way to its lowest setting in order for it to kick on and start warming the water. If I turned it directly to the desired temperature the thermostat would make a pop noise and cutt off completely. Now I'm gradually turning the temperature up in incriminates and its not popping or shutting off. Is this normal that one would have to gradually increase the temperature dial to jot over load the thermostat all at once by cranking right up to about 135°? Thank you for your insight and this video.
hope i can get a reply.. in my country my thermostat is apparently not available . they do how ever have other thermostats. can i use a diffrent thermo stat on my heater??
What makes this video confusing is he sometimes refers to "continuity" and other times what you should see on the meter, and sometimes resistance. Also, the "designated water temperature" is never defined (I'm assuming it's what the thermostat is set to). He presents conditional testing for the lower pole of the upper thermo, and the lower thermo, where you need to not only know the designated water temperature, but also the temperature of the water inside the tank, which from where I'm sitting is pretty unknowable!
You could always run a cup of the hottest water setting from a faucet, dunk a thermometer, and check the temp. Otherwise run out the hot water completely so you can ensure it's below the minimum setting.
Generally, you can crack up the temperature to test for closing and turn the temperature back down to test for opening of thermostats. He was checking for continuity the entire time. He misspoke when saying test resistance. You can test resistance of the heating elements their self. Resistance checks for parts with loads motors, ignitors, or sensors. Continuity is just making sure there is a closed path from point a to point b.
I see this referred to in comments, but not exactly as I would question. I understand what a 'desired setting is' (what you have the thermostat set to. But how do you know if the water temperature exceeds or is less than desired setting? Video seems to indicate that this is important and not just a "it seems to be hot" or "it seems to only be warm"...?
I ran the hot water into a glass bowl in my kitchen sink for a couple of minutes. Then as it was running, I used the thermometer I use for meats to check the water temperature in the bowl. Gave me a reading of 152.8 F . Too hot
Not sure if this might help someone. But the symptom will often point to the bad part. NO hot water would be an upper element or stat Hot water runs cold after 5 minutes would tell you the lower stat or element is to blame. A tripped reset usually means the lower element is gunked up with sediment and overheating the tank
The designated (temperature) setting on the thermostat. If it is set to 130 degrees and the element has had a chance to cool, and the room you're in is less than 130 degrees, then there should be continuity through the thermostat, showing that if it was hooked up, it would be heating. When it is warmer than the setting, it will disconnect inside the thermostat and show an open circuit, and that would mean it is not heating.
@@curt2742 The t-stats don't actually measure room temps. They have thermo discs on the back of them to take the temperature of the tank surface. It doesn't have anything to do with the temperature of the elements, but rather the temperature of the water that's inside the tank. The best thing you can do is once you turn the power off to the heater, turn on the hot water at a few faucets in the house until the water that comes out of the faucets is lukewarm/cool. That will be sure to have the temps in the tank lower than the setpoints of the t-stats.
@@andrewwelch5668 you're right, they are not for measuring room temps, but if the ambient temp was for some reason higher than the temp setting, it would expand that disc. 130* is a bit extreme, but for lower settings or different applications, it could be relevant.
jazu make sure the thermostat is firmly seated against the tank (assuming that it is set at 120 degrees). Sometimes it is improperly seated in the clips that hold it to the tank and sometimes the clips are sprung. Either way, if the t-stat is not tight against the tank it can't sense heat.
First time repair clinic has had a video that seems a bit confusing at times when it didn't have to be. Why confuse people who aren't familiar with ohm meters by bringing in descriptions about water temperature? This is confusing, and I'm familiar with electric and water heaters and their parts. Either explain what this has to do with it briefly, or leave it as "it works" or "it's bad". Also just keep it simple on the analog meter and say it pegs out or is dead. I watched this three times and it still derailed my train of thought when it came to the water temp discussion.
You have to know the temperature of the water or you won’t know which element is supposed to be being energized at a given point in time. It’s very relevant.
Anyone that is not familiar with a multi meter probably will not know where to set their meter dial at. This is not mentioned at all in this video. Also I agree about the designated temp setting 😟. The video did help some though. Thanks
RepairClinic.com ok, sorry I missed that. At the time I was not familiar with what olms meant etc. I do have a prob still. My water heater's elements and thermostats are good. When I check the thermostat to see if I'm getting power I am not. I want to check the main wires coming in at the top of the heater for power, how do I use the meter for that? I can't find any specific video on that. Thanks so much!
ohms is the measure of electrical resistance, and volts is the measure of the electrical pressure in the wire. current is the measure of flow rate of electricity. can have 120 volts can shock you bad. 240 can kill instantly, so be careful. when the multimeter needle swings over to near zero ohms, it means that there is almost no resistance in the circuit between the meter prongs. test it by touching the red and the black. the needle swings over to zero, meaning no resistance, or full flow of elecricity.
I need help.... I just bought an electric water heater about 1 month ago and the hot water runs out quickly while taking a shower. I have the temperature set at 125 degrees on both thermostats. At 5 minutes into the shower the hot water is getting cool and i have to turn down the cold water so it can get hot again. Right at 9-10 minutes into the shower the hot water finishes. I checked the voltage on the thermostats and they give me a reading of 240 and I checked for continuity on the elements and give me a reading of 12.5 on the elements. What can the problem be????? Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting our channel. We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thermostat on top and element both tested good. Bottom element is bad and rusted to the point I am afraid to try and take it out, water heater was installed new 8 years ago. As I try and heat water breaker trips inside house after 5 minutes, WHY?
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
Hello, I have tested everything 3 times and all my results were good. My water suddenly got scalding hot. Then it overheats and trips the shut off button. I have already replaced the top thermostat. What could be the issues? Please help. Thank you.
Replace your lower element and reset the ECO switch. It could take up to 12 hours before the heater produces hot water consistently, but this should fix the problem.
Water is cold in 4:26 tank. Left lower side is showing open circuit or no continuity. Right lower side is showing closed circuit or continuity. Lower thermostat showing continuity. Does this mean that upper thermostat is bad considering water is cold in tank and upper thermostat on left side is showing open circuit
Does this method apply to smaller electric water heaters? I have a 30 gallon, single element water heater in a guest house bath, and it stopped heating.
Can a thermostat be stuck closed? I am asking this because I have a hot water heater with one heating element. The water gets way too hot. The temperature is set to 125 and seems to be stuck on and overheating the water. I don't think it has tripped the reset button cause it is still heating up the tank. Any ideas where I should start diagnosing?
You may have solved the issue by now, but the answer to your question is most certainly yes! The thermostat has contact points inside of them to distribute power once the switch inside engages the contact points. The switch can fuse on to the contact points as electric current and load being used can heat the wire and contact points over time. In your case though, it's most likely the case of the t-stat thermo discs which measure the tank temps being out of calibration and the heater to run wild. If it eventually shuts off without having to pop the red reset button (E.C.O. or thermal overload) on the upper t-stat, then the switch fusing together is not likely your issue. Either way, the t-stat(s) would need to be replaced.
We have the 80 gallon AO Smith water heater. It's just over 3 years old and bit by bit, the hot water line started getting air in it so when you'd turn the hot water on, the first bits would spit out at you. As that developed, the water started getting hotter. The "tech support" (I use the term very loosely) deferred to an authorized plumber who would only charge for labor, not parts. Such a deal! I bought a kit w/ both elements and both thermostats for just under $30 and changed them out myself. While one of the Thermostats may have been part of the problem, seems there's still air getting in the system. Any thoughts? The cold water runs fine. We're on a well + have the complete Culligan system (not that we needed it) but either way, it channels water to both the hot and cold water and only the hot water line seems to be getting air in it. Thanks!
i really hope you already solved your problem and meaby can help since its like the firs person i see with the same problem ( i have a filtreation system too ) so after the changed the water heather the water started to do that pit outs and they say it will go away well only did a liitle bit couple months went by and hot water very hot but didnt last now its not hot water of alll( i tried the reset botton ) any ideas ? thanks
This maybe about 4 years too late, but it would seem like to me that you have either of 2 problems. Your water heater anode rod is having a bad reaction with the quality of water coming from your well (yes, even if you have an expensive water treatment system) or your well pump maybe experiencing intermittent malfunctions/well not recovering fast enough/leaks in the outside well piping. If the issue wasn't resolved by now, try replacing your anode rod in the water heater with a Corro-Protec anode first. If that doesn't fix it, bypass your water treatment system for about several days and see if the problem still exists. If that don't work, call a well service company to do some investigating.
Don't know if you got the real answer to this by now, but the elements should read resistance because they are the load. By you testing for continuity with just a digital multimeter set to tone, you should be getting a "beep" sound when you touch each element's terminals, usually indicating that the element is still good. The resistance reading you get is determining whether or not the element is working too hard (higher than normal resistance value) or not working hard enough (lower than normal) to generate enough heat through the coils to heat the water in the tank. The resistance ratings of some elements are different, but the most common for a residential tank type water heater is 4500 watts assuming 240 volt power supply, normal resistance readings should be around 12 - 13 ohms.
@Andrew Welch I have a 40 gal/4500W electric water heater. I hear both "Beep" sounds when testing both elements and thermostats for resistance but it keeps tripping off my circuit breaker after resetting the button and allowing the tank to heat up with hot water and this started 4 days and I've been living here for 3yrs now......After taking one shower,the breaker kicks off....Why is that?
My electric water heaterstoooed producing hot water after I drained and flushed it. Everything checks okay as far as all electrical components, it gets water as it is hooked to the main in source from the well and still runs from faucet. It has a faint sound like it is heating but there is no hot water. At the same time a bathroom toilet closest to where the tank sits, will not fill with water. I looked for leaks or blowouts unde the house and have not found anything yet. Anyone got ideas on what the problem could be?
Shut off power to the unit. Open the element compartment and write down the numbers on the end of the elements, then close the compartment and restore the power to the unit. Take these numbers when you shop for your new elements. 30 and 40 gallon heaters are typically 240 volt / 4500 watt. Always take the numbers with you for an exact replacement.
Shavian1: Ok... you did NOT answer my question, you only told me what i already know.. i have replaced these rods several times from several HWH's from family members and friends.. i KNOW they operate on 240V, my question was .. WILL THEY WORK ON 120V only..??
My water heat stops working, when I test the thermostat top screws for power, it does not have power, however when I test the top wire nuts it has 240v. I go to the water heater circuit breaker and it is not tripped. But to temporarily resolve the issue I reset the circuit breaker and that fixes the issue. Next day I check the power on the top screws on the thermostat and again does not have power! I’ve already changed both thermostats and both water heater elements, what I’m I missing? It’s driving me nuts.
The symptom will point to the bad part. No Hot water is bad upper stat/element. Short supply means the bottom isn't heating up and the lower element/stat are bad
It what you have it set for. It’s on you to know that. Some people like hotter water then others and will change the temp. It’s usually set around 120 from factory.
There is an adjustment screw on each thermostat. They are adjusted with a flat head screw driver. They are usually set on HOT at the factory but you can adjust it to VERT HOT or, as low as you like. If you have children or seniors living in the home it's a good idea to go with HOT at the most.
I have to agree with butchtheiw's comments. I watched and followed the entire video and actually understood all the way up until the last "random" comment. "An opposite reading will mean the thermostat is defective" OPPOSITE OF WHAT??? You give descriptions of what to expect, most of which have an opposite reading, and then never clarify what reading would indicate a bad thermostat. BAD VIDEO.
You are checking for "continuity" not temperature. To check the water temp put a thermometer in a glass/cup of the hottest water you can get from a faucet. (bring the vessel close to temp as the water, with the water prior to taking it's temp. The vessel can give you a bad reading if you don't.
Can someone help me please. I have giant expert 8 plus water heater. Its 12 years old. No hot water at all. The upper one receives the power (240V), the lower doesn't. I turned the temp down on the upper, and max temp. on the lower. I checked for continuity upper 0.02 lower 00.4 (with the 200 omh settings) The 240v is on the heating element on the upper even when I dial temp down (no pop sound) Does it mean my upper thermostat is bad ? Thank you !!!
Defective thermostats will turn off and on intermittently. One way to test for this is to hook up your multi meter by clamping them on to the terminals and tap the thermostat with a block of wood and watching the ohms jump.
Fuck dude..I just wanna know why my water isn't heating. Plummer came but all my roomate said was "idk something about the thermostat..." going to work and attending school I'm looking for the cheap get the job done solution. Plz and thanks
Shouldn’t the video show how to make sure that the water heater is powered off with a tester? What if the diy person mistakenly shut off the wrong breaker? Plus the guy in the video appeared to touch each possible live wire placement... again a novice diy person would be dead and lawsuit coming. Please please please save a life and redo your video😕😡
This video is worthless. You don't make sense when you say the water temperature is above or below (whatever) The problem is that there is NO Heat in the water so there is no water temperature except for cold.
This is a thermostat testing video to help you check if it is a faulty thermostat. If your thermostat isn't working, it can also make your water heat too hot. The majority of the time, the water will be cold, but there can be additional parts that can be faulty or broken. The thermostat is the most common part that needs to be replaced when your water heater isn't heating. Hope that helps!
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
For anyone trying to figure this out, keep in mind that the elements won't have power at the same time. Typically the upper element gets power first. Once the set temp is reached it will send power to the lower element. A bad upper element can cause a unit to not heat at all. To check, set upper thermostat to lowest setting and allow to heat. Once to temp it should send voltage through to the lower tstat. Hope this helps.
THANK YOU i didn't know that i was getting so frustrated.
Thank you brother 💯💪🏽
Sounds like a plan. Great explanation yall.
Heard that in a vid. But didn't know how to work it. Thank you😊
Thanks I surely appreciate you comment as I didn't know how to check the thermostats and my mother's water heater wasn't working properly so I replaced both elements and thermostats I bought them in a package deal ! Now I know how to check the thermostats after reading your comment ! The water heater is about 15 yrs old so I felt replacing both was a good idea ! Now she has plenty of hot water !
This video is great. I've replaced lots of hot water tanks and even more elements but this is the first time I've had a thermostat go bad.
I knew how to test the elements but not the thermostats. When my elements tested fine I went to youtube (as usual) and luckily your video was the first one. I saw I was already a subscriber so that means you've helped me in the past. Your video was very clear and your explainations clear. Thank You,
Steve
Just want to let you know how informative your breif video is. I look forward to watching more of your lessons.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you for explaining how these parts are supposed to work and how to test each individual unit. It is much more clear when you understand how the part is supposed to work what exactly you are testing for.
After turning breaker off and BEFORE REMOVING POWER CONDUCTORS CHECK FOR VOLTAGE PRESENT AT POWER TERMINALS, CONDUCTOR TO CONDUCTOR AND CONDUCTOR GROUND! The breakers may be labeled incorrectly or you could have a faulty breaker. Remember all that metal you're working around is grounded!
Use a Volt Ohm Meter to test correct voltage. I used a Non Contact Voltage Tester Pen that lit up red for voltage present. Problem was that it wasn’t enough power. My circuit breaker was faulty. After replacing 30 amp breaker, I got my 220 volts AC and hot water.
I have to say, this channel rocks! I've repaired things from chemical dispenser on pressure washer to water heater thermostat, and saved bunches of $$$$"..thanks y'all..2 thumbs up!
"saved bunches of $$$$" Love it!
How long does it take for a geyser to give hot water after installion?
Thank you for the video I've got 2 new thermostats coming into new heating elements coming also. Just doing a little maintenance hasn't been touched in 8 years
That was perfect no words wasted got to the point explained it well and said goodbye perfect thank you
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
THANK YOU FOR HELPING ME SAVE MONEY AGAIN! ORDERED THE UPPER THERMOSTAT,
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
brand new thermostat and elements still no heat !
great video though no nonsense and straight to the point.
1. Did you have the correct elements and T-stats installed when you replaced them? Voltages can be different on the coils of those elements.
2. Did you install the t-stats and elements correctly? Be sure that the t-stat with the red button is on top and the smaller of the two is on the bottom and that you've wired it just as before.
3. Did you ensure that you have the correct amount of voltage being supplied to the heater with the use of a multimeter/volt meter? Sometimes other switches (breakers, disconnects, fuses) can break the power before it reaches the heater from the panel due to poor connection points. Breakers can go bad as well as disconnects which can sometimes have fuses inside in the event that something made the fuses blow.
You may have already solved your problem by now, but you can try these things in the future if you have problems again.
@@andrewwelch5668 Turns out the ground was bad on the tank !
Repair Clinic is so under appreciated. I love the stuff that's on here.
Wow, thanks Aaron!
Aaron Lowe
Yeah. I buy parts from yall. Great videos yall make for us fellas. Thank you all.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Great VIDEO. thank you. My water ( kitchen faucet) was SUPER HOT...(usually not ). Now its very very not even warm plus no more hot water...?? Is this a possible sign the thermostat needing replaced. UNIT is 14 years old.........Thank you again
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
I've installed a new 2 element thermostat following your instructions. Double checked all connections and verified it was pressed firmly against the tank. The new thermostat is doing nothing. Verified continuity as well on the new thermostat prior to install. Same exact thermostat as one replaced. I've since put the old thermostat back in. But now I've noticed it now has continuity whereas before one of the screws for the upper element did not. Now it does. Anyways, I had to turn the thermostat dial all the way to its lowest setting in order for it to kick on and start warming the water. If I turned it directly to the desired temperature the thermostat would make a pop noise and cutt off completely. Now I'm gradually turning the temperature up in incriminates and its not popping or shutting off. Is this normal that one would have to gradually increase the temperature dial to jot over load the thermostat all at once by cranking right up to about 135°? Thank you for your insight and this video.
hope i can get a reply.. in my country my thermostat is apparently not available . they do how ever have other thermostats. can i use a diffrent thermo stat on my heater??
What makes this video confusing is he sometimes refers to "continuity" and other times what you should see on the meter, and sometimes resistance. Also, the "designated water temperature" is never defined (I'm assuming it's what the thermostat is set to). He presents conditional testing for the lower pole of the upper thermo, and the lower thermo, where you need to not only know the designated water temperature, but also the temperature of the water inside the tank, which from where I'm sitting is pretty unknowable!
What i would do is run hotwater to lower temp in tank and then do test.
You could always run a cup of the hottest water setting from a faucet, dunk a thermometer, and check the temp. Otherwise run out the hot water completely so you can ensure it's below the minimum setting.
Riley i0k0
It's an awful video. Bad explanation.
Generally, you can crack up the temperature to test for closing and turn the temperature back down to test for opening of thermostats. He was checking for continuity the entire time. He misspoke when saying test resistance. You can test resistance of the heating elements their self. Resistance checks for parts with loads motors, ignitors, or sensors. Continuity is just making sure there is a closed path from point a to point b.
Thanks for the video. If we put the multimeter probes on each top terminal, should we get 240V or 0V?
I see this referred to in comments, but not exactly as I would question. I understand what a 'desired setting is' (what you have the thermostat set to. But how do you know if the water temperature exceeds or is less than desired setting? Video seems to indicate that this is important and not just a "it seems to be hot" or "it seems to only be warm"...?
confused me too
I ran the hot water into a glass bowl in my kitchen sink for a couple of minutes. Then as it was running, I used the thermometer I use for meats to check the water temperature in the bowl. Gave me a reading of 152.8 F . Too hot
What you said while testing the bottom one and the temperature made absolutely no sense to me. What is the designated temperature?
Is it suppouse to click when turning the nob past 120 degreesp
Not sure if this might help someone. But the symptom will often point to the bad part. NO hot water would be an upper element or stat
Hot water runs cold after 5 minutes would tell you the lower stat or element is to blame.
A tripped reset usually means the lower element is gunked up with sediment and overheating the tank
BzzKll2k15 I hope you’re right. I’m taking your word on this. I’ll let you know later today how it worked out.
Thanks for this information.
This guys a genius, everything you said was dead nuts from my experiences too bad I learned the hard way before I seen this.
Thank you! Our bottom element keeps getting calcium around it and losing continuity.
thank you so much, you just simplified this for me!!
Is replacing the part worth it if your unit is 18 years old?
What do you mean when water temperature is below designated setting? When checking lower portion of thermostat. Thanks for the help.
The designated (temperature) setting on the thermostat.
If it is set to 130 degrees and the element has had a chance to cool, and the room you're in is less than 130 degrees, then there should be continuity through the thermostat, showing that if it was hooked up, it would be heating. When it is warmer than the setting, it will disconnect inside the thermostat and show an open circuit, and that would mean it is not heating.
@@curt2742 The t-stats don't actually measure room temps. They have thermo discs on the back of them to take the temperature of the tank surface. It doesn't have anything to do with the temperature of the elements, but rather the temperature of the water that's inside the tank. The best thing you can do is once you turn the power off to the heater, turn on the hot water at a few faucets in the house until the water that comes out of the faucets is lukewarm/cool. That will be sure to have the temps in the tank lower than the setpoints of the t-stats.
@@andrewwelch5668 you're right, they are not for measuring room temps, but if the ambient temp was for some reason higher than the temp setting, it would expand that disc. 130* is a bit extreme, but for lower settings or different applications, it could be relevant.
My heater heats but it doesn't stop on 120. Does it mean upper thermostat needs to be replaced? Thanks for video.
jazu make sure the thermostat is firmly seated against the tank (assuming that it is set at 120 degrees). Sometimes it is improperly seated in the clips that hold it to the tank and sometimes the clips are sprung. Either way, if the t-stat is not tight against the tank it can't sense heat.
Thermostat are not super precise. I see a bunch that are really poorly calibrated. You may just need to decrease your dial to get to 120.
Most are just Bi-Metallic thermostats that aren't very precise at all
Thanks very helpful In Diagnosing my water heater to see if it’s the thermostat or element that’s bad.
Thank you!
First time repair clinic has had a video that seems a bit confusing at times when it didn't have to be. Why confuse people who aren't familiar with ohm meters by bringing in descriptions about water temperature? This is confusing, and I'm familiar with electric and water heaters and their parts. Either explain what this has to do with it briefly, or leave it as "it works" or "it's bad". Also just keep it simple on the analog meter and say it pegs out or is dead. I watched this three times and it still derailed my train of thought when it came to the water temp discussion.
I didnt get it either
If they don’t how to use an ohm meter they shouldn’t be anywhere near exposed electrical wires. Leave it to an electrician
The temp of the water determines if the thermostat is open or closed?
You have to know the temperature of the water or you won’t know which element is supposed to be being energized at a given point in time. It’s very relevant.
Just a subtle point. Voltage is a force, it does not flow. Current flows.
Best tip in this video, tape up the insulation! Thanks Repair Clinic
Always check for voltage(current) before working on equipment.
Anyone that is not familiar with a multi meter probably will not know where to set their meter dial at. This is not mentioned at all in this video. Also I agree about the designated temp setting 😟. The video did help some though. Thanks
RepairClinic.com ok, sorry I missed that. At the time I was not familiar with what olms meant etc.
I do have a prob still. My water heater's elements and thermostats are good. When I check the thermostat to see if I'm getting power I am not. I want to check the main wires coming in at the top of the heater for power, how do I use the meter for that? I can't find any specific video on that. Thanks so much!
ohms is the measure of electrical resistance, and volts is the measure of the electrical pressure in the wire. current is the measure of flow rate of electricity. can have 120 volts can shock you bad. 240 can kill instantly, so be careful. when the multimeter needle swings over to near zero ohms, it means that there is almost no resistance in the circuit between the meter prongs. test it by touching the red and the black. the needle swings over to zero, meaning no resistance, or full flow of elecricity.
Thank you so much! You just saved me about $1500. Cheers!
I need help.... I just bought an electric water heater about 1 month ago and the hot water runs out quickly while taking a shower. I have the temperature set at 125 degrees on both thermostats. At 5 minutes into the shower the hot water is getting cool and i have to turn down the cold water so it can get hot again. Right at 9-10 minutes into the shower the hot water finishes. I checked the voltage on the thermostats and they give me a reading of 240 and I checked for continuity on the elements and give me a reading of 12.5 on the elements. What can the problem be?????
Thanks!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for supporting our channel.
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thermostat on top and element both tested good. Bottom element is bad and rusted to the point I am afraid to try and take it out, water heater was installed new 8 years ago. As I try and heat water breaker trips inside house after 5 minutes, WHY?
I've just had a new 60 gallon giant cascade water heater installed. But
my water tank breaker keeps tripping. The specs say that the tank
generates 40 amps and needs a 25-30 amp breaker, but I do have a 30 amp
breaker. What could the problem be? Thanks
You need a 40 amp breaker but u would also have to have 40 amp wire so you would have upsized your wire or go back with the 40 gallon
Thanks for keeping it simple and safe like it.
Thank you.
what is the designated temp setting ? That threw me off...
Is there a video for gas heaters?
What if i have continuity when connect to common terminal and either lower and upper element terminal?
Hello,
I have tested everything 3 times and all my results were good. My water suddenly got scalding hot. Then it overheats and trips the shut off button. I have already replaced the top thermostat. What could be the issues? Please help. Thank you.
Replace your lower element and reset the ECO switch. It could take up to 12 hours before the heater produces hot water consistently, but this should fix the problem.
Water is cold in 4:26 tank. Left lower side is showing open circuit or no continuity. Right lower side is showing closed circuit or continuity. Lower thermostat showing continuity. Does this mean that upper thermostat is bad considering water is cold in tank and upper thermostat on left side is showing open circuit
Does this method apply to smaller electric water heaters? I have a 30 gallon, single element water heater in a guest house bath, and it stopped heating.
Tested both, thermostat, and element for continuity, both good. Stumped.
Lost me & still am going to try to fix it.
Ok I think I’m a little confused so my lower thermostat shows no reading (continuity) That means it’s bad right??
If your setting is above 120 or whatever you keep it at it should have NO continuity
Strictly speaking, voltage does not 'flow'. Voltage is the electrical potential available and amperage (or current) is the 'flow' of electrons.
Can a thermostat be stuck closed? I am asking this because I have a hot water heater with one heating element. The water gets way too hot. The temperature is set to 125 and seems to be stuck on and overheating the water. I don't think it has tripped the reset button cause it is still heating up the tank. Any ideas where I should start diagnosing?
You may have solved the issue by now, but the answer to your question is most certainly yes! The thermostat has contact points inside of them to distribute power once the switch inside engages the contact points. The switch can fuse on to the contact points as electric current and load being used can heat the wire and contact points over time.
In your case though, it's most likely the case of the t-stat thermo discs which measure the tank temps being out of calibration and the heater to run wild. If it eventually shuts off without having to pop the red reset button (E.C.O. or thermal overload) on the upper t-stat, then the switch fusing together is not likely your issue. Either way, the t-stat(s) would need to be replaced.
here my thermostat break at on so it keep heating how can i test?
We have the 80 gallon AO Smith water heater. It's just over 3 years old and bit by bit, the hot water line started getting air in it so when you'd turn the hot water on, the first bits would spit out at you. As that developed, the water started getting hotter. The "tech support" (I use the term very loosely) deferred to an authorized plumber who would only charge for labor, not parts. Such a deal! I bought a kit w/ both elements and both thermostats for just under $30 and changed them out myself. While one of the Thermostats may have been part of the problem, seems there's still air getting in the system. Any thoughts? The cold water runs fine. We're on a well + have the complete Culligan system (not that we needed it) but either way, it channels water to both the hot and cold water and only the hot water line seems to be getting air in it. Thanks!
i really hope you already solved your problem and meaby can help since its like the firs person i see with the same problem ( i have a filtreation system too ) so after the changed the water heather the water started to do that pit outs and they say it will go away well only did a liitle bit couple months went by and hot water very hot but didnt last now its not hot water of alll( i tried the reset botton ) any ideas ? thanks
This maybe about 4 years too late, but it would seem like to me that you have either of 2 problems. Your water heater anode rod is having a bad reaction with the quality of water coming from your well (yes, even if you have an expensive water treatment system) or your well pump maybe experiencing intermittent malfunctions/well not recovering fast enough/leaks in the outside well piping.
If the issue wasn't resolved by now, try replacing your anode rod in the water heater with a Corro-Protec anode first. If that doesn't fix it, bypass your water treatment system for about several days and see if the problem still exists. If that don't work, call a well service company to do some investigating.
So what if my water heater DOESNT stop heating
Muy demostrativo u profesional
geat it very helpful
what if both element terminals show continuity? I left the wires connected and tested upper and lower.
Upper was 13ohms, lower was 27.
you got a lot of resistance
Don't know if you got the real answer to this by now, but the elements should read resistance because they are the load. By you testing for continuity with just a digital multimeter set to tone, you should be getting a "beep" sound when you touch each element's terminals, usually indicating that the element is still good.
The resistance reading you get is determining whether or not the element is working too hard (higher than normal resistance value) or not working hard enough (lower than normal) to generate enough heat through the coils to heat the water in the tank. The resistance ratings of some elements are different, but the most common for a residential tank type water heater is 4500 watts assuming 240 volt power supply, normal resistance readings should be around 12 - 13 ohms.
@Andrew Welch I have a 40 gal/4500W electric water heater. I hear both "Beep" sounds when testing both elements and thermostats for resistance but it keeps tripping off my circuit breaker after resetting the button and allowing the tank to heat up with hot water and this started 4 days and I've been living here for 3yrs now......After taking one shower,the breaker kicks off....Why is that?
My electric water heaterstoooed producing hot water after I drained and flushed it. Everything checks okay as far as all electrical components, it gets water as it is hooked to the main in source from the well and still runs from faucet. It has a faint sound like it is heating but there is no hot water. At the same time a bathroom toilet closest to where the tank sits, will not fill with water. I looked for leaks or blowouts unde the house and have not found anything yet. Anyone got ideas on what the problem could be?
Will these heater rods work on 120V..?? Or let me ask will the thermostat close contacts if there is only 120V on the input leg..??
Shut off power to the unit. Open the element compartment and write down the numbers on the end of the elements, then close the compartment and restore the power to the unit. Take these numbers when you shop for your new elements. 30 and 40 gallon heaters are typically 240 volt / 4500 watt. Always take the numbers with you for an exact replacement.
Shavian1:
Ok... you did NOT answer my question, you only told me what i already know.. i have replaced these rods several times from several HWH's from family members and friends.. i KNOW they operate on 240V, my question was .. WILL THEY WORK ON 120V only..??
@@ACommenterOnTH-cam Just a resistor, so yeah.. Expect about 1/4th of the power.. Ohms law.
My water heat stops working, when I test the thermostat top screws for power, it does not have power, however when I test the top wire nuts it has 240v. I go to the water heater circuit breaker and it is not tripped. But to temporarily resolve the issue I reset the circuit breaker and that fixes the issue. Next day I check the power on the top screws on the thermostat and again does not have power! I’ve already changed both thermostats and both water heater elements, what I’m I missing? It’s driving me nuts.
If it zaps it means there is electricity. Write that down.
How come my water heater doesn’t have a reset button?
My water is WAY too hot suddenly! I'm doing an ohm test on the thermostats tomorrow!
Same problem here… did it end up being thermos?
how can i fix it if i hav' not multimeter
The symptom will point to the bad part. No Hot water is bad upper stat/element. Short supply means the bottom isn't heating up and the lower element/stat are bad
what the heck is the designated temp setting, wouldn't it be helpful to know that?
It what you have it set for. It’s on you to know that. Some people like hotter water then others and will change the temp. It’s usually set around 120 from factory.
There is an adjustment screw on each thermostat. They are adjusted with a flat head screw driver. They are usually set on HOT at the factory but you can adjust it to VERT HOT or, as low as you like. If you have children or seniors living in the home it's a good idea to go with HOT at the most.
What if you replace all top and bottom, then theirs no reading on bottom
I have to agree with butchtheiw's comments. I watched and followed the entire video and actually understood all the way up until the last "random" comment. "An opposite reading will mean the thermostat is defective" OPPOSITE OF WHAT??? You give descriptions of what to expect, most of which have an opposite reading, and then never clarify what reading would indicate a bad thermostat. BAD VIDEO.
Mop
How can the lower thermostat know the temperature in the tank when it is completely disconnected?
You are checking for "continuity" not temperature. To check the water temp put a thermometer in a glass/cup of the hottest water you can get from a faucet. (bring the vessel close to temp as the water, with the water prior to taking it's temp. The vessel can give you a bad reading if you don't.
Very confusing video continuity and resistance and water temperature wth .can you use not confusing words?
If you don't understand those words then you shouldn't be working on electrical things
none of this is really making sense to me. how frustrating
Excuseme sir when we change the thermostat? If shows continuty or not continuty time?
Can someone help me please. I have giant expert 8 plus water heater.
Its 12 years old.
No hot water at all.
The upper one receives the power (240V), the lower doesn't.
I turned the temp down on the upper, and max temp. on the lower.
I checked for continuity upper 0.02 lower 00.4 (with the 200 omh settings)
The 240v is on the heating element on the upper even when I dial temp down (no pop sound)
Does it mean my upper thermostat is bad ?
Thank you !!!
wouldnt a thermostat either work or not work? I dont see how it could heat poorly?
Defective thermostats will turn off and on intermittently. One way to test for this is to hook up your multi meter by clamping them on to the terminals and tap the thermostat with a block of wood and watching the ohms jump.
Price 1500 watts 240 volts element waterheater
Please wear safety Goggles.
Fuck dude..I just wanna know why my water isn't heating. Plummer came but all my roomate said was "idk something about the thermostat..." going to work and attending school I'm looking for the cheap get the job done solution. Plz and thanks
💪😎🇺🇲
You don't explain what you mean by "Designated setting" This makes zero sense.
By the way 4:26 its tripping reset button
Shouldn’t the video show how to make sure that the water heater is powered off with a tester? What if the diy person mistakenly shut off the wrong breaker? Plus the guy in the video appeared to touch each possible live wire placement... again a novice diy person would be dead and lawsuit coming.
Please please please save a life and redo your video😕😡
This video is worthless. You don't make sense when you say the water temperature is above or below (whatever) The problem is that there is NO Heat in the water so there is no water temperature except for cold.
This is a thermostat testing video to help you check if it is a faulty thermostat. If your thermostat isn't working, it can also make your water heat too hot. The majority of the time, the water will be cold, but there can be additional parts that can be faulty or broken. The thermostat is the most common part that needs to be replaced when your water heater isn't heating. Hope that helps!
Nice insulated screwdriver hahaha
Why when I ask for some idea u tell me about a different thing I as about solar water heater u tell me about electric water heater?
Who are you asking ?
Solar should be great 👍