The instructions did not call for any silicon. I used nun of it until I had that small leak in the roof. Then I loaded it up. 5 years later it’s still nice and dry on the inside.
does the shed attach to the base you made? like are there screw holes or did you drill holes to attach the shed to the base you built. I know about the wire anchor kit, I will use that anyway ( I live with a lot of tornado type weather )
Thanks for this video. It looked like your floor exterior is almost flush with the exterior of the shed -- that is, not proud of the shed, is that correct? And also, it looks like the 2x4s were beveled on the outside. Both good ideas, me thinks.
How did it go with the untreated wood? We bought a plank of untreated plywood but we are not sure if water sealed products will be enough to avoid damage to wood, I wouldn't like to change the flooring in 5 years. Thanks for feedback
The untreated boards that are on top of the treated boards are holding up just fine. But if I was to do it all over again. I would have build a complete base for it to sit on, not just the frame. That way I would not have had to purchase the flooring kit. I was not 100% sure how much moisture this shed would keep out do to the cheap price tag. But I have had zero water issues inside my shed to date. The floor I put is is still holding strong.
Nice job, I'm thinking about buying the Arrow 10X8 but I'm confused about the foundation that I want to build and the shed it self. The shed is 121 inches X 92-3/4 if I'm going to build my foundation with 2X6's would I have to cut my 2X6X8's at 92-3/4 and but my 2X6X10's and the base of the shed will be will be a perfect fit around my lumber foundation. The reason I asked I noticed you made some cuts to your lumber, by the way this question is for anyone who can help me with this problem before I buy this shed...........
The only thing I would do differently, would be to not just build the frame. I would have built a solid platform out of wood and set the shed on it. Even if you get the flooring kit. That kit has to sit on something. You may as well just build the floor and then place the shed on top of it.
I went through all the materials in this video for the base that the shed is sitting on. All the rest of the materials for building the actual shed come with the kit. There is a huge bag of hardware. Are used a screw gun as well
Basic tools are all you will need. A screw gun and some bits would be helpful. You could use a screwdriver, but it’s about a million screws. Get a 6 foot level and a set of files. A rubber mallet and some silicon and a caulk gun. Gloves might be helpful as well. Lots of thin metal to work with.
I never called them to ask. I just followed the instructions. Perhaps the chemicals in the treated wood could contaminate the shed flooring. Strange but I followed the instructions.
@@FrankGuest My Arrow shed suggested not to have any part of the treated wood touching their metal floor beam. Oh well I'm sure I'll be dead and gone but the time it rusts out. Thanks Great video
In the floor kit directions, it did not specify. I used regular 3/4 inch plywood un pressure treated. The wood is still in great shape and the shed does not leak at all.
I wish I had watched this before I bought the shed. So much to think about. Water, mold, flimsy . Now I wonder if I need the floor kit. I think I’ll find someone to do it at this point. I’m over it!!!!
My shed has been up for just about 3 years. It’s still holding strong. Not a single leak. It is pretty flimsy until it is put together. As long as you build it on a level surface and plum all the sides. It will last for a while. I needed a shed fast. This was very cheap. Figured I would get this and when it caved in on itself I would replace it with a better one. To this day it is showing no signs of weakness. Not sure if I would buy another one like this, but I have faith that it will keep the weather out for many years to come. Thanks for watching my video.
@@lillianwilliams3787 you should secure the shed to the ground somehow. When you start, you have tracks that go long the ground. I secured those to my base. If you are installing the floor kit, once you put things in your shed, that weight alone should secure the shed to the ground.
Just curious... why bother with the wood foundation frame when you could use Arrow's flooring kit and bolt it to the concrete blocks, then use plywood over it? What I'm reading in the Arrow instructions as an option.
Christopher Dillman I wanted to keep the floor kit off the ground. My last shed, it sat directly on the ground and when the floor inside got a little wet, it took forever to dry and I ended up with mold in the shed. I’m hoping with it being raised some, I don’t end up with the same problem I had before.
@@FrankGuest ah ok. I would think that metal frame from arrow would be raised as it is with those concrete blocks which are technically above ground level. Still a fun project! I chickened out and decided to go vinyl shed on concrete pavers. 😀
Christopher Dillman The floor kit only kept it off the ground an inch. At least in the front right corner. The yard slopes down so there is more clearance on the back side of the shed. The metal on this shed is very thin and very flimsy. I’m hoping this shed lasts. Time will tell. So far so good. No leaks either. I’m very careful when moving heavy items in the shed or near the shed. I have electric run to it now as well.
@@FrankGuest You probably should have laid a sheet of 6 mil plastic under the floor kit, directly on the ground, as a vapor barrier. That would solve your mold/moisture problem.
I just bought a 10 x 8 shed..... and I bought exactly enough lumber and plywood to make a 10 x 8 base,,,,, should I make my base bigger cause the dimensions are just over 10 x 8 ??
William D'Alexander my shed was advertised as 10x10. But in the instructions it was just over 10 one way and just under 10 the other. I built my base the exact same size as the instruction stated. It ended up being exactly correct. Just make sure your base is plum and level. Don’t forget to pick up some silicone. It may leak some after your first rain. Mine did. I silicones a few spots and it has been dry as a bone ever since.
William D'Alexander Dont silicon anything until it’s done and you have a good rain. Technically you should not need silicon. After a good rain you will see if you have any leaks. I only had one small leak. I shot a follow up video about it. Click on my videos and you will see it. Thanks for watching my friend!
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me und.erstand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
I purchased both the floor kit and the shed from Sears. I had to order it online. The kit did not specify my exact shed size. But it is pretty universal. I had left over pieces. My floor kit would have worked for a larger arrow shed.
Greg D Hart I would use the arrowhead or bullet shed ground fasteners. Just drive them into the ground and secure the cable to any part of the wood base that you build. The shed will be secured to whatever base you build. I did not secure mine to the ground. It is just sitting On The cement footers. You should check code regulations in your area. Depending on how much wind you get, you may not be required to secure it to the ground. Thank you for watching my video.
@@lillianwilliams3787 you can drill 1/2" holes every 2 feet through the 4x4 then pound 24" rebars into ground thereby securing your base to the ground. No holes to screw shed to the base but drill your own holes and use washers and screw shed to your 4x4 base.
Instead of using 2x4's should have just used a 4x4 treated.Put it right on the ground and leveled it.Add small rock or sand and used paving blocks on the ground
He might have considered that but said he didn't want to void the warranty by using treated because of chemicals in contact with the metal, so I think that's why he opted for regular and treated 2x4 sandwich with the untreated on top rather than a straight 4x4 treated. I'm glad you commented because I don't care about the warranty and will probably use the 4x4's... easier.
I build these sheds for a living. DO NOT do what this guy did in the video, you need a real base as in a concrete slab for your foundation or atliest paving blocks on the whole area of the shed. When you do it like in the video your floor will be bouncy and will eventually brake. Also always put a damp proof membrane under your steel shed to stop it from condensation inside.
Anyone else fine arrow shed measurements a little stupid, False advertising, calling a 10x10 shed , which should be 10’ feet long by 10’feet wide, is actually about 9’ feet 6”inches x 9’feet 6” inches.
Dude...no offense...but putting that floor kit suspended between blocks looks like a recipe for disaster. Maybe an update 3 months later on the floor in the shed?
Timothy Bowen The floor creaked a lot when the shed was empty. But once I filled it up the creaks went away. So far so good. But it’s only been a couple months. I need to shoot another rain update video. I’ll include the floor in that video.
Frank Guest so do you not have a problem with water running under your shed onto your floor? I have the floor kit but I didn’t use it.. I built a base but the water gets on it and runs right underneath and makes my inside floor wet
Believe it or not, as long as you build this cheep metal shed correctly, if will not leak. It is far more sturdy than I thought it was going to be. Each individual piece is very flimsy but once it’s put together correctly it is a pretty sturdy shed. I have mine wired up with electricity now believe it or not and not a single drop of water has gotten inside it. If you’re not very handy then this shed is definitely not for you. But if you are a handy guy and you can build it correctly, this shed will work.
@@FrankGuest I have been building sheds (hundreds of them) for three major building supply stores for 15 years and I would NEVER buy one of these sheds. They take a ridiculous amount of time to build, the plans and part identification are poor, the metal is too thin and dents too easily, the screws are too small, and the doors never shut smoothly. They are priced low for a reason. Some of the stores I work for don’t build samples of this shed anymore because potential customers can see how flimsy and cheap they are, and they can see the dents that appear when anyone even looks at the thing. For my own home, I bought a good plastic shed. My son and I put it together in under an hour, everything fits properly, and after 10 years it is just as waterproof (and snowproof) as the day we built it, and it doesn’t have any dents.
@@johnfairweather9188 I agree with everything you said. Except for the direction. I thought they were easy to follow mostly. The Metal is very thin and it does dent easily. You get what you pay for. This was very cheap. Could be the cheapest 10x10 shed on the market. It far exceeded my expectations though. Especially for the money. I bought this as a temporary shed. I needed cover in my backyard ASAP. I was planning on building one from scratch layer on. But this one has held up so good, I added power to it. I’ll wait to replace it until something heavy falls over inside it and pokes a hole in the side. Then I’ll replace it. But it’s been up for almost 4 years. Still to this day when I see it I’m impressed with it. All that said, If someone was paying me to build a shed for them, I would not pick this one…
@@FrankGuest When I was a boy, my father gave me a great piece of advice. He said, “Buy the best you can afford and take care of it”. As an assembler for 3 major building supply companies for 15 years, I have built this shed at least 20 times and I hated every minute of it. None of these companies assembles one for display where I live anymore because the poor quality was putting off potential buyers.
Thank you for this video. Two thumbs up because of your dog assistant😊
0:18 That's why you should use a silicon sealant along the outside seam of the bottom frame once you attach it to a treated wood frame.
The instructions did not call for any silicon. I used nun of it until I had that small leak in the roof. Then I loaded it up. 5 years later it’s still nice and dry on the inside.
Thank you for posting this! Getting ready to put down the base for a 10x14' arrow shed and this gave me an idea what I was in store for.
Glad that I was able to help you out!
i love how easy the plans are in *WoodBlueprints. Com* to understand and t.he step-by-step videos they have. Makes getting material really easy
does the shed attach to the base you made? like are there screw holes or did you drill holes to attach the shed to the base you built. I know about the wire anchor kit, I will use that anyway ( I live with a lot of tornado type weather )
Thanks for this video. It looked like your floor exterior is almost flush with the exterior of the shed -- that is, not proud of the shed, is that correct? And also, it looks like the 2x4s were beveled on the outside. Both good ideas, me thinks.
Starting my 10x12 today thanks for the video
How did it go with the untreated wood? We bought a plank of untreated plywood but we are not sure if water sealed products will be enough to avoid damage to wood, I wouldn't like to change the flooring in 5 years. Thanks for feedback
The untreated boards that are on top of the treated boards are holding up just fine. But if I was to do it all over again. I would have build a complete base for it to sit on, not just the frame. That way I would not have had to purchase the flooring kit. I was not 100% sure how much moisture this shed would keep out do to the cheap price tag. But I have had zero water issues inside my shed to date. The floor I put is is still holding strong.
Glad I found this before I bought the shed! Thank you!
Thank You for making this video! It really helped allot. Putting everything together now. Again, thank you so much!
Thank you for the comment. And I’m glad the video was helpful.
Damn I wish I knew this. I just finished my wood foundation. But I used pressure treated 2x6
Nice job, I'm thinking about buying the Arrow 10X8 but I'm confused about the foundation that I want to build and the shed it self. The shed is 121 inches X 92-3/4 if I'm going to build my foundation with 2X6's would I have to cut my 2X6X8's at 92-3/4 and but my 2X6X10's and the base of the shed will be will be a perfect fit around my lumber foundation. The reason I asked I noticed you made some cuts to your lumber, by the way this question is for anyone who can help me with this problem before I buy this shed...........
The only thing I would do differently, would be to not just build the frame. I would have built a solid platform out of wood and set the shed on it. Even if you get the flooring kit. That kit has to sit on something. You may as well just build the floor and then place the shed on top of it.
Thank you. Great video!
Glad you liked it!
what do you think adding frame same time as building vinyl shade basically before putting sides.
I just bought the exact same shed.. can you tell me all the materials you used ?
I went through all the materials in this video for the base that the shed is sitting on. All the rest of the materials for building the actual shed come with the kit. There is a huge bag of hardware. Are used a screw gun as well
Me and my wife are looking to buy a shed but I know nothing about how to assemble it, and what I need to buy other than the shed, can you help me
Basic tools are all you will need. A screw gun and some bits would be helpful. You could use a screwdriver, but it’s about a million screws. Get a 6 foot level and a set of files. A rubber mallet and some silicon and a caulk gun. Gloves might be helpful as well. Lots of thin metal to work with.
@@FrankGuest I don't have a way to cut the wood to build the platform
And we are buying it from Lowe's and they have a company they contract out to assemble the shed and platform
@@FrankGuest actually what I should of asked was what building materials do I need to build the foundation to the shed and how many of each item????
Why did the manufacturer not want the pressure treated side up , I guess against their metal base for the walls to screw to ?
I never called them to ask. I just followed the instructions. Perhaps the chemicals in the treated wood could contaminate the shed flooring. Strange but I followed the instructions.
@@FrankGuest My Arrow shed suggested not to have any part of the treated wood touching their metal floor beam. Oh well I'm sure I'll be dead and gone but the time it rusts out.
Thanks
Great video
@@LandRoverDS2020 I’m sure your right. LOL
How did you attach the walls to the floor?
With the shed kit, there is a metal track that screws to the wood base. Then the walls to the shed mount to that track.
Thanks for answering!
@@FrankGuest I wish you would have shown that part attaching the shed to the wood. Do you have another video somewhere else on that?
@@josiemutch3036 I don’t. But the shed screws down to the floor. Then the walls attach to the metal rails you screw to the base.
What kind of plywood did you use for the floor? Can that be pressure treated?
In the floor kit directions, it did not specify. I used regular 3/4 inch plywood un pressure treated. The wood is still in great shape and the shed does not leak at all.
I wish I had watched this before I bought the shed. So much to think about. Water, mold, flimsy . Now I wonder if I need the floor kit. I think I’ll find someone to do it at this point. I’m over it!!!!
My shed has been up for just about 3 years. It’s still holding strong. Not a single leak. It is pretty flimsy until it is put together. As long as you build it on a level surface and plum all the sides. It will last for a while. I needed a shed fast. This was very cheap. Figured I would get this and when it caved in on itself I would replace it with a better one. To this day it is showing no signs of weakness. Not sure if I would buy another one like this, but I have faith that it will keep the weather out for many years to come. Thanks for watching my video.
Will just patio bricks work for the floor and not use the wood? The video was very helpful.
@@lillianwilliams3787 you should secure the shed to the ground somehow. When you start, you have tracks that go long the ground. I secured those to my base. If you are installing the floor kit, once you put things in your shed, that weight alone should secure the shed to the ground.
@@FrankGuest I did put it up myself💪🏾 I anchored it to 12/12 patio bricks and it has withstood 60 mph winds.
Wow the rats are going to love you :)
That dog is quite the exhibitionist. Watch me shit!
Could I make a floor for the shed without the floor kit?
Yes. You could put it on a concrete slab, gravel or you could build a solid decking floor and put the shed over it.
Just curious... why bother with the wood foundation frame when you could use Arrow's flooring kit and bolt it to the concrete blocks, then use plywood over it? What I'm reading in the Arrow instructions as an option.
Christopher Dillman I wanted to keep the floor kit off the ground. My last shed, it sat directly on the ground and when the floor inside got a little wet, it took forever to dry and I ended up with mold in the shed. I’m hoping with it being raised some, I don’t end up with the same problem I had before.
@@FrankGuest ah ok. I would think that metal frame from arrow would be raised as it is with those concrete blocks which are technically above ground level. Still a fun project! I chickened out and decided to go vinyl shed on concrete pavers. 😀
Christopher Dillman The floor kit only kept it off the ground an inch. At least in the front right corner. The yard slopes down so there is more clearance on the back side of the shed. The metal on this shed is very thin and very flimsy. I’m hoping this shed lasts. Time will tell. So far so good. No leaks either. I’m very careful when moving heavy items in the shed or near the shed. I have electric run to it now as well.
@@FrankGuest You probably should have laid a sheet of 6 mil plastic under the floor kit, directly on the ground, as a vapor barrier. That would solve your mold/moisture problem.
Tony K that would have been a good idea. Luckily I have not have any mold or moisture inside my shed yet. Not a single leak either.
Is the plywood that you're putting on the base going to be treated or untreated. Would it matter?
I used untreated 3/4 inch plywood. I purchased some large sheets of it and cut it to size.
I just bought a 10 x 8 shed..... and I bought exactly enough lumber and plywood to make a 10 x 8 base,,,,, should I make my base bigger cause the dimensions are just over 10 x 8 ??
William D'Alexander my shed was advertised as 10x10. But in the instructions it was just over 10 one way and just under 10 the other. I built my base the exact same size as the instruction stated. It ended up being exactly correct. Just make sure your base is plum and level. Don’t forget to pick up some silicone. It may leak some after your first rain. Mine did. I silicones a few spots and it has been dry as a bone ever since.
@@FrankGuest ,, silicone what exactly??
William D'Alexander Dont silicon anything until it’s done and you have a good rain. Technically you should not need silicon. After a good rain you will see if you have any leaks. I only had one small leak. I shot a follow up video about it. Click on my videos and you will see it. Thanks for watching my friend!
Seems good so far! Was easy to talk to about his My Shed Plans [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Guided me in the right direction & helped me und.erstand everything & in the end it was what I wanted
Where'd you purchase the floor kit? I've been looking and can't find one.
I purchased both the floor kit and the shed from Sears. I had to order it online. The kit did not specify my exact shed size. But it is pretty universal. I had left over pieces. My floor kit would have worked for a larger arrow shed.
How do you anchor the shed to the ground?
Greg D Hart I would use the arrowhead or bullet shed ground fasteners. Just drive them into the ground and secure the cable to any part of the wood base that you build. The shed will be secured to whatever base you build. I did not secure mine to the ground. It is just sitting On The cement footers. You should check code regulations in your area. Depending on how much wind you get, you may not be required to secure it to the ground. Thank you for watching my video.
Is the shed frame screwed into the wood frame and do you have to build a wood frame? Can you just lay patio bricks then lay down the shed frame?
@@lillianwilliams3787 you can drill 1/2" holes every 2 feet through the 4x4 then pound 24" rebars into ground thereby securing your base to the ground. No holes to screw shed to the base but drill your own holes and use washers and screw shed to your 4x4 base.
I would have just put that shed right on top the old patio and fasten it to the old patio blocks.
That would have been a lot easier. I had plans for all the pavers and bricks that I took up. But they are all still piled up in my backyard. LOL
Instead of using 2x4's should have just used a 4x4 treated.Put it right on the ground and leveled it.Add small rock or sand and used paving blocks on the ground
He might have considered that but said he didn't want to void the warranty by using treated because of chemicals in contact with the metal, so I think that's why he opted for regular and treated 2x4 sandwich with the untreated on top rather than a straight 4x4 treated. I'm glad you commented because I don't care about the warranty and will probably use the 4x4's... easier.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 the Dog.
Im even more confused now
Can we get an uhhh counter lol😂
Uhh, let me get a calculator! LOL. Thanks for watching my “uhhh” video.
Make it wooden with the help of the Woodglut instructions.
2:16 LMAOL
Alex Guevara 🤣
I build these sheds for a living. DO NOT do what this guy did in the video, you need a real base as in a concrete slab for your foundation or atliest paving blocks on the whole area of the shed. When you do it like in the video your floor will be bouncy and will eventually brake. Also always put a damp proof membrane under your steel shed to stop it from condensation inside.
Hey how long will treated lumber take to do damage to metal? I already screwed down my bottom rails onto treated wood. Could I paint the exposed wood?
Lo necesitamos en español
Vielleicht sollte er es dir auf Deutsch geben. No wait - I have a better idea: learn English
🤠👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🍺
Anyone else fine arrow shed measurements a little stupid, False advertising, calling a 10x10 shed , which should be 10’ feet long by 10’feet wide, is actually about 9’ feet 6”inches x 9’feet 6” inches.
Dude...no offense...but putting that floor kit suspended between blocks looks like a recipe for disaster. Maybe an update 3 months later on the floor in the shed?
Timothy Bowen The floor creaked a lot when the shed was empty. But once I filled it up the creaks went away. So far so good. But it’s only been a couple months. I need to shoot another rain update video. I’ll include the floor in that video.
Timothy Bowen another quick update. The floor is still solid. Perfectly level and no sagging.
Frank Guest so do you not have a problem with water running under your shed onto your floor? I have the floor kit but I didn’t use it.. I built a base but the water gets on it and runs right underneath and makes my inside floor wet
banshee27 no issues with water. My shed does not sit on the ground. The floor kit is about 6 inches above the dirt floor.
@@FrankGuest Thanks for all your replies. Take care!
I 0ouo0 p3500 o
I would first build a base and then put a good plastic shed on the base instead of this horrible piece of crap metal shed.
Believe it or not, as long as you build this cheep metal shed correctly, if will not leak. It is far more sturdy than I thought it was going to be. Each individual piece is very flimsy but once it’s put together correctly it is a pretty sturdy shed. I have mine wired up with electricity now believe it or not and not a single drop of water has gotten inside it. If you’re not very handy then this shed is definitely not for you. But if you are a handy guy and you can build it correctly, this shed will work.
@@FrankGuest I have been building sheds (hundreds of them) for three major building supply stores for 15 years and I would NEVER buy one of these sheds. They take a ridiculous amount of time to build, the plans and part identification are poor, the metal is too thin and dents too easily, the screws are too small, and the doors never shut smoothly. They are priced low for a reason. Some of the stores I work for don’t build samples of this shed anymore because potential customers can see how flimsy and cheap they are, and they can see the dents that appear when anyone even looks at the thing.
For my own home, I bought a good plastic shed. My son and I put it together in under an hour, everything fits properly, and after 10 years it is just as waterproof (and snowproof) as the day we built it, and it doesn’t have any dents.
@@johnfairweather9188 I agree with everything you said. Except for the direction. I thought they were easy to follow mostly. The Metal is very thin and it does dent easily. You get what you pay for. This was very cheap. Could be the cheapest 10x10 shed on the market. It far exceeded my expectations though. Especially for the money. I bought this as a temporary shed. I needed cover in my backyard ASAP. I was planning on building one from scratch layer on. But this one has held up so good, I added power to it. I’ll wait to replace it until something heavy falls over inside it and pokes a hole in the side. Then I’ll replace it. But it’s been up for almost 4 years. Still to this day when I see it I’m impressed with it. All that said, If someone was paying me to build a shed for them, I would not pick this one…
@@FrankGuest When I was a boy, my father gave me a great piece of advice. He said, “Buy the best you can afford and take care of it”. As an assembler for 3 major building supply companies for 15 years, I have built this shed at least 20 times and I hated every minute of it. None of these companies assembles one for display where I live anymore because the poor quality was putting off potential buyers.