Clever how you make your own tools. Neat work, glad I came here fore some tips. I'm working on a Humber Super Snipe series V that I will sell later. Sills gone both sides. I worked as a spot welder for 3 years in Llanfyllin Powys in Wales but only had about an hour training in welding. It was a good place to work 1976-1979
Interesting, good luck with your sills. Sills take some time so be prepared, not worked on a super snipe before but had an imperial for a while. My grandad had Jeremy Thorpe's black Humber imperial. It was given to him by Jeremy because he drove him around in it. The scandal at the time was interesting.
I'm an Engineer, and I have to say your approach and workmanship are excellent. I'd be proud of that job, minimal filler (if any) which show the level of skill you have 👍👍
дуже короткі у вас поради. вимагаю більше видео. не вірю що все що ви накопичили за 25 років роботи з класичними авто, вмістилося у 8 хвилин)) треба ще и частіше. успіхів вам і натхнення. не полишайие справи. you have very short tips. I want more videos. I can't believe that everything you have accumulated over 25 years of working with classic cars fit into 8 minutes)) it is necessary even more often. success and inspiration to you. do not leave the matter.
Thanks, I'm only in Devon so not too far but I'm booked up for the next 12 months. I know what you mean about the use of filler on repairs. It's often too time consuming to shape the metal for general garages and they usually don't have the tools either. A guy I know was making aluminium body's from scratch very talented and clever guy and because of the time consuming job he did he was charging less/hour than me. The pay scale seems to work in the opposite direction. Bung it up with filler and make a decent wage or do a beautiful job and get paid pittance. Shame it's like that.
@@bensclassicbodywork yes, i find it depressing that you cant get work done as i know it should be done...no point plating on top of rust...my car is nothing special, not a classic, old banger really! even so, if repaired properly, will last for many more years...
Brilliant repair but how come you did not use weld through primer or epoxy on the inside of the sill? As you said water will run inside the sill, pretty concerning about it rusting from the inside out
Every repair must be cavity waxed after the car is painted, this protects steel on the inside. I used weld through primer where there is overlapped joints. I'm also using zintec which is a zinc coated weldable steel. You can't really use epoxy inside unless you have some way of spraying it in there after the welding.
I liked it too but my mum thought it was Naf! 😀 it's possible to spot weld aluminium but not with my 1+1 welder, think you need Higher amperage version.
How do you find spot welding the electroplate (Zintec) sheet steel? I have had trouble getting the spots to bite on that sometimes. Tend to clean the zinc off the inside of the sopt weld points or avoid using Zintec sheet. Pity, zinc plated is a far better idea that plain steel. Maybe I just got a load of more thickly electroplated sheet? Plain steel spot welds perfectly.
Hi, I haven't had any issue spot welding zintec and zintec is more or less all i use. My welder is only a 1+1 and will not adequately spot weld anything thinker. I keep the electrodes in relatively good condition and use the timer close to maximum. Clamping force is set by the spring and of course alignment of the electrodes is important.
Hi Ben,I see you’ve spot welded the outer sill to the inner……I did this not long back for someone I know and it went in for it’s mot…..the tester said the sill needed to be seam welded(we’re the lower inner and outer sill meet)not spot welded…..the van still got a pass I just wounded it you’d come across this?Thanks👍😉
Hi, no I have never come across a seam welded outer sill to inner sill before. The confusion might be if a cover patch to a sill was welded on the outside of the original sill it would have to be seam welded around its perimeter. Like any patch but particularly on a structural part of the vehicle. Patches used as a repair method is never used in restoration so I go by the rule to put things back as they were, copying the amount of spot welds and spacing. I use the spot welder itself sparingly where there is new metal to new metal otherwise I plug weld with the mig.
Thanks. Well the welding is complete, it's on the roll over frame at the moment and I'm going to sandblast the underside, seal all the lapped joints, stone chip and and paint top coat. Perhaps I'll do an update video.
![[UNCUT] ชาวบ้านถาม “นายกอุ๊งอิ๊งค์” ประชาชนมีกิน มีใช้ กี่โมง? I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 16 ส.ค. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tKZvOzLIJJc/mqdefault.jpg)
Clever how you make your own tools. Neat work, glad I came here fore some tips. I'm working on a Humber Super Snipe series V that I will sell later. Sills gone both sides. I worked as a spot welder for 3 years in Llanfyllin Powys in Wales but only had about an hour training in welding. It was a good place to work 1976-1979
Interesting, good luck with your sills. Sills take some time so be prepared, not worked on a super snipe before but had an imperial for a while. My grandad had Jeremy Thorpe's black Humber imperial. It was given to him by Jeremy because he drove him around in it.
The scandal at the time was interesting.
Love your work, please keep the uploads coming, I find them very informative for my own projects, you provide a fantastic source of information. 👍🏻
I appreciate the encouragement, the interest seems to be increasing which really helps with motivation to make videos. cheers
I'm an Engineer, and I have to say your approach and workmanship are excellent. I'd be proud of that job, minimal filler (if any) which show the level of skill you have 👍👍
Thank you. 👍 I'm an engineer too. My other channel I built a helicopter. 😆
thats really nice work
@@The_Artist_Formerly_Known_as thank you 😊
Glad that I have come across your videos!!!!............fantastic thank you
Appreciate that, thank you 😊
Fascinating
дуже короткі у вас поради. вимагаю більше видео. не вірю що все що ви накопичили за 25 років роботи з класичними авто, вмістилося у 8 хвилин))
треба ще и частіше. успіхів вам і натхнення. не полишайие справи.
you have very short tips. I want more videos. I can't believe that everything you have accumulated over 25 years of working with classic cars fit into 8 minutes))
it is necessary even more often. success and inspiration to you. do not leave the matter.
Thanks for the encouragement, I will try longer more detailed videos and see if people prefer that. 👍
@@bensclassicbodywork буду чекати з нетерпінням.
Beautifull job. Thanks for sharing your experience !!!!
Thank you 😊
Great work bro
Nice job 👌🏻
Thank you 🙂
Good stuff, Ben! Do carry on!
Thanks for the encouragement 👍
great work, just wish i could find someone in somerset to do this sort of work...its mot patch repairs, or filler guys around here!
Thanks, I'm only in Devon so not too far but I'm booked up for the next 12 months. I know what you mean about the use of filler on repairs. It's often too time consuming to shape the metal for general garages and they usually don't have the tools either. A guy I know was making aluminium body's from scratch very talented and clever guy and because of the time consuming job he did he was charging less/hour than me. The pay scale seems to work in the opposite direction. Bung it up with filler and make a decent wage or do a beautiful job and get paid pittance. Shame it's like that.
@@bensclassicbodywork yes, i find it depressing that you cant get work done as i know it should be done...no point plating on top of rust...my car is nothing special, not a classic, old banger really! even so, if repaired properly, will last for many more years...
Brilliant repair but how come you did not use weld through primer or epoxy on the inside of the sill? As you said water will run inside the sill, pretty concerning about it rusting from the inside out
Every repair must be cavity waxed after the car is painted, this protects steel on the inside. I used weld through primer where there is overlapped joints. I'm also using zintec which is a zinc coated weldable steel. You can't really use epoxy inside unless you have some way of spraying it in there after the welding.
Lovely work👌 subscribed
Thanks for the comments and subscription 👍
Yay!! I'm the first to comment!! Love a nice curved flange.
Thanks for your valued comment. 😆
Good stuff mate
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed the video, but please do something about the music it was like a very annoying silent movie
Sorry you found the music annoying, I didn't realise it was. I can't change it on this video unfortunately but I have stopped using music backing.
I even liked the background music. Can you spot weld aluminum?
I liked it too but my mum thought it was Naf! 😀 it's possible to spot weld aluminium but not with my 1+1 welder, think you need Higher amperage version.
How do you find spot welding the electroplate (Zintec) sheet steel? I have had trouble getting the spots to bite on that sometimes. Tend to clean the zinc off the inside of the sopt weld points or avoid using Zintec sheet. Pity, zinc plated is a far better idea that plain steel. Maybe I just got a load of more thickly electroplated sheet? Plain steel spot welds perfectly.
Hi, I haven't had any issue spot welding zintec and zintec is more or less all i use. My welder is only a 1+1 and will not adequately spot weld anything thinker. I keep the electrodes in relatively good condition and use the timer close to maximum. Clamping force is set by the spring and of course alignment of the electrodes is important.
Hi Ben,I see you’ve spot welded the outer sill to the inner……I did this not long back for someone I know and it went in for it’s mot…..the tester said the sill needed to be seam welded(we’re the lower inner and outer sill meet)not spot welded…..the van still got a pass I just wounded it you’d come across this?Thanks👍😉
Hi, no I have never come across a seam welded outer sill to inner sill before. The confusion might be if a cover patch to a sill was welded on the outside of the original sill it would have to be seam welded around its perimeter. Like any patch but particularly on a structural part of the vehicle. Patches used as a repair method is never used in restoration so I go by the rule to put things back as they were, copying the amount of spot welds and spacing. I use the spot welder itself sparingly where there is new metal to new metal otherwise I plug weld with the mig.
Nice work, love to see it finished. if it's done that is?
Thanks. Well the welding is complete, it's on the roll over frame at the moment and I'm going to sandblast the underside, seal all the lapped joints, stone chip and and paint top coat. Perhaps I'll do an update video.