How To Find Out If Your Well Pressure Tank / Bladder Has Gone Bad
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2021
- Hopefully this gives you an idea of how to figure out if you have a problem with your well water tank / pressure tank / bladder. Here is the one I just bought - amzn.to/38LQCL6 (affiliate, its the same make and model as in the video) Amtrol WX-203 X-Trol Well-X-Trol
🔴Tired of missing out on the best deals on tools? Join our Daily Tool Deals e-mail list! struggleville.net/getnotified/
🔴The best deals only last a short time, sometimes even less than an hour. For serious deal seekers make sure to click the notification bell on this video and select the option to receive ALL notifications.
🔴Check out my most recent video! goo.gl/JwbmrZ
🔴Check out my most popular video EVER! goo.gl/1YzvFF
🔴Want more videos? Subscribe to my 2nd channel - / @struggleville2
🔴Become an official member of Struggleville and receive my unwavering appreciation! / @thestruggleville
#Struggleville.net #ToolDeals #TheUndisputedWorldChampionOfDailyToolDeals
Want to mail me something awesome? Or even something not so awesome? Address below.
PJ
2205 S Perryville Rd. #138
Rockford, IL 61108
E-mail: PJ@struggleville.net
Website - www.struggleville.net
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
My pump was short cycling. Changed tank pressure is constant. I’m happy now . 300 bucks
Finally someone’s set up that looks as old as mine 😂
Me too 😂
Oh the joys of home ownership! Lol man it never ends, I feel like after all I've done to my house, it should be new by now... But it ain't and problems and projects will continue to suck my wallet dry lol
Be happy, lol, it isn't a hole in the ocean you throw money at. (boat)
Thanks for this! Bookmarking for future reference.
GREAT, clear explanation! Thank you very much! Keep doing a good job!
Check other videos. The info in this video is presented well, but it’s not correct. There’s some type of leak. Water is leaving the system. His analysis is wrong.
Thank you Brother, I'm ordering my new tank.
Excellent presentation
I learned this the pricey way, the water was getting on top of the bladder, called in a well company which changed out the old tank for a new fiberglass water/ bladder tank at a cost of $1500. dollars.
Thank you for your video.
Thank you!!!
Greatest video yet.!
Thanks man!!!
I just bought a new summer home it has a tank but I haven’t looked at it yet. But i will this week thanks for the video and information.
Excellent video
Hope changing the tank goes smoothly!
Yeah. It wasn’t the tank. He should remove the video. His analysis is wrong.
Got a link to the video of changing the well tank?
If you don't have a spigot at the bottom of the pressure tank to open I would think that there would always be some water in it. Opening a faucet at a location anywhere higher than the tank will just remove all the pressure from the tank and the pipes but there will still be water in your pipes that seeks it's natural low point, which will not be at the bottom of the tank. You would need to have and open the spigot at the bottom of the tank and open a faucet somewhere else in the house so that any vacuum in the system would be released and then the tank would fully drain. I also think that if the bladder is broken and water is getting to the top of the tank, where only air/pressure should be, that if you press on the spring loaded schrader valve stem, when the tank has it's high/pressure switch shutoff water pressure, that water would come out of the schrader valve.
In Europe we call them taps not faucets.
Comprehensive explanation, thank you.
When you drain the tank with a faucet somewhere above the level of the tank you should air the tank up when the pressure in it gets low in order to drive the water out of the tank. If the tank is water locked the existing air pressure will not have enough volume to push all the water out and gravity will not allow it to drain because the tank is lower than the outlet. Two or three times of repressure application will usually do the job.
Omg thank u. I have been searching for this answer forever
im in the same situation right now...pump never gets to shut off point and constantly runs...been using the breaker when we take a shower or dishes...
my bladder tank was completely out of air. i filled it to 28 and in a matter of minutes it dropped to 26 psi.
Great video thank you how do you drain your bladder tank I think I need to replace mine I tried to shake it and it seems to be full is that a bad sign
Any valves after the tank?
Connect a garden hose to the neighbors, and keep a dribble going
Wellxtrol best tank on the market
I believe the technical name for it is accumulator. Your plumbing looks like mine! Mine is in the garage which I have nick named "the bilge". Lol!
What if I feel tank up with air &it goes in pump ?
We just had our tank replaced. It started blowing the circuit breaker. Is it a bed tank? Thank you.
Why did you have the tank replaced, and was it professionally installed?
To me it sounds like the pump down the well is shot or the wiring at pressure tank might be goofed up.
Aight bud, here's the scoop, sorry for the delay.
The pump has a check valve, but don't rely solely on that, add a very simple brass check valve (it's just a nipple sized fitting with a pin and a simple swinging flapper door, costs maybe $30, as it's probably 1" minimum, or should be at least).
Also, observe the crud in the bottom, may be worth adding almost any kind of whole house filter, as mine was filled with mud, (well dug to 120', pump set at 100, water sits at 75' down), I installed a T, after a check valve prior to an old style plain spigot placed higher (above) than what's next (for draining/allow air IN). Then, in a vertical pipe, put a T to split the one into 2 pipes, (now this is crucial) at the SAME level (height) I added 2 of the plain/simple/basic/cheap/pleated (round air filter looking) high micron whole house filters to eliminate a lot of chunks o sludge, as well as catch tons of the iron sediment prior to that storage tank.
Being that it's split to 2, I usually change them out every 8 months. I have the filters both lead to a T to return to one pipe, and then another basic spigot on a vertical line below the filters in line before a shut off valve.
Also, on my new pressure tank, there's a manifold (at the bottom, different brand) that I also installed a spigot for draining the tank when that time comes. On this manifold is my pressure switch, a gauge, the in and out lines, as well as a pressure relief (much like a water heater has but without a temperature probe) that is connected to a small bleed off line that runs to the dump pump pit, should the switch fail in the on position.
Having the 2 filters on the same plain is important, otherwise one filter will get filled with debris while the other (higher) filter remains new looking. Also, the new home depot GE brand whole house filters offer a clear filter housing that sorta allows you to monitor the debris, but further down the line, for the home only, after exterior hose bibs split off, before my "conditioning" equipment, I have another split T to 2 separate better quality filters.
I've had well water here for 37 years. I think the check valve could be the problem also.
Man I'm confused. My tank pressure does not drop when I turn the water on at a faucet. The switch never turns on. If the switch were clogged it would never turn off. Basement has water the 1st floor gets a trickle. Would that be a bladder leak?
Mine has the same issue. The new switch I fitted turned off the borehole pump at 44psi, but the pressure continued to rise to 58psi where it settled. After some time and usage the gauge reads a constant 58psi but in the house the water pressure is essentially way down to a trickle, though the switch is still held in the fully pressurised ‘off’ position. The gauge has been checked and is good, but the pressure inside the diaphragm tank firstly increasing then staying up suggests to my thinking that the diaphragm might be perforated, though when I test the Schrader valve air comes out but not water, and when emptied the tank rings bell like when knocked, and is easy to move around, ie not full of water. Were there to be a leak in the system then surely the gauge would drop, the switch would trip ‘ON’ and the pump kick in again, re-pressurising the tank. Water cannot be compressed (hydraulic fact 101), so the gradual increase in pressure noticed at the gauge AFTER the pressure switch has tripped to ‘OFF’ suggests that water is getting into the airside chamber above the diaphragm, thus increasing the pressure there - I should point out that my gauge and switch are located on the top, air-side half of the tank, not on the water pipeline.
My pressure tank i see no water but its 10 psi i still get water through the system but its weak the pressure switch is new
That looks more like a foot value or a slow line leak problem then a pressure tank problem. You should also have a check value where the line enters the house prior to the pressure relay and tank, that way the pump won't kick on if you have some kind of bleed off prior to the house. Even a bad tank should hold constant pressure when no water is being used, unless the air value is leaking.
No, it shouldn't. If the bladder is shot the air pressure will escape through the lines when the pump is turned off.
########!How does pressure loss on water gauge come from a water leak inside bladder tank????? I told son, that his pump one way valve in the bottom of well was leaking back down. The bladder tank air valve does not release any water, and there is a difference when knocking on upper and lower section of tank!..???
Still got a leak
Did you just ruin your digital air pressure gauge with water coming out of the Schrader valve???
Hole in the pipe or bad check valve
Yes, it appears that the tank isn't the first culprit, it could be the check valve or leak back to the well.
Your check valve is bad,or hole in well fittings.
so if water comes out of the Schrader valve its bad
For sure, means water is getting past the bladder/Diaphram.
Where is the check valve that stops the water from bleeding back through the pump back into the well?
Yeah, its never had one. Will probably be adding when changing out the tanks.
The check valve is way down in the well right next to the pump itself.
@@reeb9016 That's what is called a "foot valve" and those do not last long, must be replaced every 10 years or so around here. I've had well water for over 35 years here and I moved the check valve to in front of the pump and although it's a tiny bit more difficult to prime, I find that I've had zero problems for more than 30 years at a time. I bought the first check valve in 1984 and I replaced it in 2016. I buy the cheapo brass ones for wells from Home Depot. To prime the pump you need a 3/4" valved tee on the outlet of the pump and simply use a funnel and pour in water while the pump is running. Typically it will prime in under ten seconds.. You can simply cut the pipe and install a check valve on the inlet of the pump, that is what I would do. Priming is a bit messy because once the pump is primed it blows back through where you're pouring in the water. Also, once primed it should hold prime forever unless there is a hole in the pipe.
@@TheStruggleville See my note to Ree B below this response. If I were you, I'd cut in a conventional well check valve before the pump (Home Depot, $25) and also install a priming tee and valve on the pump outlet. In over 35 years I've serviced our well pump twice, when the pump bearings became noisy. The system of checkvalve, pump, priming tee works very nicely is very dependable.
@@charlestatakis9363 Thank you Charles. I work on properties here on the North Coast of California in the Redwood forest. Everyone's on well here. This is new to me though since I'm a Southern California boy.
Been trying to figure out why one of my clients pumps keeps running and I can't find a water leak anywhere. My troubleshooting has led me to the tank. It has a check valve and maybe even the foot valve is bad. There was a very small leak in the schrader valve at the top of the tank but not enough to be causing the drastic PSI drop. It's a 40/70 system and it's at least 20 years old. It goes from 70 to 40 in 22 minutes.
When you installed the check valve before the pump did you replace the foot valve to or do you leave it dormant or remove it? Thank you Charles.
What would cause your tank to go to 90Lbs?? A ruptured bladder? Mine is only 15 years old. Came home to no water but 24 hrs later had water but low pressure. Can't afford a repairman. Any suggestions for the elderly???
Sometimes the bolt upstair is not tight enough. The bladder couldnt fully sealed. I have this experience once
@@ngocehgayabebas2118 Are you talking about the one on top?? It's tight. I put air in the tank a month ago and do have water. Could the pressure guage need replacing?? It still registers 90 lbs. I can replace that myself . It $100 bucks just for them to come out here, let alone do any work. And a new tank is between $300-$500. Thank you for responding. No one else has. Hope you have a Merry Christmas 🌲♥️♥️
@@singlewhitefemale1707 first case, if the tank pressure is going up even after you reduce the pressure and fill it with water, then you have a small leak in the bladder. This still have pressure that could push the water out to the pipe. But it drop drastically so the pump would turn on too soon. Drawdown capacity of the tank reduced because too many water outside the bladder within the tank.
Second case, if you have water but no pressure in the output, that mean the leak is too big. You may say this as a ruptured bladder. In this situation, when you measure the tank pressure, your gauge will show a relatively normal number as long as there’s no hole in the tank body.
From your explanation seems like the bladder ruptured.
Air pressure still kept inside so the reading shows 90Lbs. That because there’s no hole at the tank’s body for the air to escape.
If you could, you better check the bladder first. Take it out and see before deciding to buy a new tank or gauge.
Btw, I’m a muslim.
I wish you a Merry Christmas too.
God bless you mam.
@@singlewhitefemale1707 remember, when you decide to open the pump, make sure to empty the air pressure first.
I wish I were there to help. But I live in Indonesia.
So good luck
@@ngocehgayabebas2118 Thank you so much for your help. I do believe I have a leaky bladder. It needs air about once a month. I do have a water leak around the bathroom somewhere. I keep the pump off until I need water. Trying to get the leak fixed while I'm off work. You have a blessed Christmas and a very prosperous New Year!! Thank you again for your help!♥️♥️♥️
What about tapping the outside of the tank. The tank should be 2/3 air and 1/3 water. If it is OVER 2/3 water, it is probably because the diaphragm is punctured. It's water logging and will cause your pump to short cycle and willeventually burn out.
Hope you figure out your problem
That system is old got a control box probably galvanized pipe in the well
Right on that one, at least half right. Has 2 pipes coming in, a PVC and a galvanized. Writing on the control box has a 1993 date and says delta 1/2hp. So I assume they changed to the PVC then too. Didnt have a check valve so added one while putting in the new tank.
@@TheStruggleville still might have a air pocket in the line and extra strain in the pump I see this day in and day out I work on wells
Remove all that galvanized pipe immediately. You're poisoning your family with heavy metals. Did you get it fixed was it just the tank?
Like lead solder used on copper pipes?
@@knerduno5942 lead solder hasn't been used on drinking water pipes since "1986" when it was banned nationwide
Hello. I have a question.
My well guy came and I think he tried to scam me.
He was there to upgrade my water softener system.
He was trying to check the pressure tank but every time he would put the pressure gauge on it, he would let air out.
It was weird what he was doing. It looked like he was trying to get the air out and then at the end he tells me hey look the pressure is 16 PSI.
I said why don’t you empty it out and fill the tank with air and than let’s test it like it’s supposed to be and like how it’s shown in videos all over online and etc.
He completely ignored it and said it’s bad.
So after he left I did the checks myself.
Emptied the tank and than did the pressure check.
I set pressure at 37. I checked it in the morning and it was 36.5.
I may have let some air out trying to pull the gauge out.
Now is my pressure tank bad?
I did this test so many times and same results.
Tank is not water logged either. When I knock on it, it sounds like all other tanks.
Please advise.