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Thanks for another great video ZK. It was interesting and enjoyable. Most interesting process ZK for getting everything off and taken apart. I can see with the steps you took to improve the gear case will pay off in the long run. Nice for showing us the steps to do to improve the shaft and bearings and bring careful to use lock tight and notch the housing before putting on the bearing. Neat ideas. Can see the improvement these steps help with. Once again, excellent teaching on this process. You did great with the explanations and making a point of do’s and don’ts along the way. Good teacher you are. Learned a lot again. Thanks. About it for now. You take care and be safe. Say hello to josh. Looking forward to the next video. Thanks for everything ZK. The Iowa farm boy. Steve.
Pretty simple and easy rebuild. Rebuilt a 7720 and 7720 titan 2 several years ago, so when our new to us 9650 walker machine needed rebuilt last fall it was easy. Had to prick the housing also and used sleeve retainer for the bearing. Also replaced zerk with a grease hose to relocate zerk to make it easier to grease.
That chair can hold a 290# Sasquatch. That sure made me Lol. I love bearing and gear work setups like what you were doing. Proper backlash is very important when making gears last. Nice work again, Trent's Shop Works.
The dealer I work for in PA we send the gear boxes out to the machine shop and the install a sleeve in the center to correct this problem, cheaper then a new gear case.
That's the only way to really fix them. There's a machine shop in Effingham that rebuilds tons of those. Apparently it's easier to just throw parts at it.
Excellent work as always, you could and should be using 7471 primer to clean up those parts before you apply the 680 etc, the bond will be 100% better than what you are achieving right now. Its one of those things, if you know, you know how much better it is
Who's snap ring pliers do you like? I've recently upgraded to a larger machine and found my old "lawn mower" sized pliers just aren't big enough for the Green Iron.
I think I would just use the loctite bearing retaining compound, however with the loctite primer first. Upsetting, or peening the bearing housing may make the bearing more difficult to drive in but it actually reduces the total area of surface contact between the housing and bearing. Real fix needs to be a redesigned/modified housing with either a bearing retaining plate or at least a snap ring to secure that outer "pinon" bearing.
Always great to follow your work! I'm surprised those ??? Parts... ??? (I came back when someone liked my comment: I saw a Google speech to text message error word. Dunno which I meant to have in the comment. ) don't press in the housing. On my 1999 Toyota solara I had a hell of a time with the front wheel bearings; brought a Harbor freight 12-ton press to its knees. You would not think that pressed-in hubs would stay in with all the cornering and 90 mph driving I do but they sure do.
I'm curious why a flange mount bearing could be used for the inside bearing. That would keep the housing from being damaged from the bearing walking around.
Was it a shop mate that thaught you the four divots to hold the lower bearing or did you get to it by experimenting with a common housing failure issue that you wanted to extend life on?
@@ZKMasterTech brilliant many thanks. I look after a CTS here in UK, one of last ones , I guess I'll come across this in future, I've had a look, when I put a pry bar on bottom shaft , between shaft and nut , it lifts 3 or 4 ml, I guessed this might be acceptable. I'll keep an eye on it. Great vid. Thanks 🙏
That.is a great video you do a great job of explaining in detail on what your doing exactly that is awesome I enjoy your content thanks ZK can't wait for the next one wish you did something everyday
“Hit it with your purse” our powertrains class we had quadrange transmissions and getting the DDS loose was hell. That’s what the instructor would say you gotta hit it with your purse and it was a big hammer with purse written on it.
Highly recommend snap-ons newest largest dead blow I forgot the size I just know it puts anything else in its range and slightly bigger to shame.Thing is a absolute unit, it’s my got too now instead of my 10lb sledge if that says anything. I’m not one to write something for no reason especially about snap on but I will for that monster.
Great video Zeth! That Loctite ceramic glue is some potent and bad for you stuff that's really not good for skin contact! I'm usually not too careful with oils and chemicals on my hands and skin, except for Loctite of any kind, that stuff will mess with you in the end.
If the housing and the bearing race were anywhere close to the same hardness you could also drill and ream a hole right on the split line and drive in a dowel pin.
I know about trick to make bearing fit tighter been there and done that. What I have seen it transfer through and each roller beat that spot because it caused high spot. Wouldn't think bearing being that hard and brittle it could do that. With what I work on there are some driveshafts with carrier bearing they knurled driveshaft, put epoxy on and put bearing on. Eaton new 12 speed, alum case steel bearings on counter shafts wear into the case. So around 250k or 300k it stops shifting either replace case or trans replacement. Fix is they now machining groove in bearing bore and putting o-ring in to stop bearing from moving. Well we will see if that works. Being cast iron maybe make something that can knurl bearing bore and epoxy/glue bearing in place
What would happen if one were to leave those gears at zero backlash? Excessive wear on the gear teeth? I'm sure the spec has a reason to call for 6/1000" minimum backlash.
You can cool a shop with a 500ft spool of poly buried in the ground, a grundfos floor heat circulation pump and a radiator from a 9600 and an electric fan. The only thing is you will also need a drain...as it will sweat like crazy.
Unfortunately John Deere can’t manage to build the the gearbox properly the first time after charging hundred’s of thousands of dollars for the machine
Zeth, have you tried PB Blaster penetrating grease? Might work superb for those splined shafts that are rust prone. I use it in my shop for random repairs.
Zeth thanks as always for another great video, however your now employing unfair methods to attract viewers, as the moment that you had your dog Toby on the screen then that was me won over! :) But as you know I am really here for the Green Iron and it was great to see you showing methods of saving customers money in these difficult times. Thanks as always from Scotland
Do you donate a little time to your employer to make them good on the extra time takes to video repairs, or is you employer just pass through the hours to customers and thinks the exposure for the dealership is worth it? Just curious! I am thinking was initially a hard conversation to have with your employer around lost hours, liability etc..
Thanks to Bespoke Post for sponsoring this video! Head to bespokepost.com/mastertech20 and use code MASTERTECH20 to learn more and get 20% off your first box.
The punch mark trick is awesome...thanks Zak!
Thanks for another great video ZK. It was interesting and enjoyable.
Most interesting process ZK for getting everything off and taken apart. I can see with the steps you took to improve the gear case will pay off in the long run.
Nice for showing us the steps to do to improve the shaft and bearings and bring careful to use lock tight and notch the housing before putting on the bearing.
Neat ideas. Can see the improvement these steps help with.
Once again, excellent teaching on this process. You did great with the explanations and making a point of do’s and don’ts along the way. Good teacher you are.
Learned a lot again. Thanks.
About it for now. You take care and be safe.
Say hello to josh.
Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for everything ZK.
The Iowa farm boy.
Steve.
Pretty simple and easy rebuild. Rebuilt a 7720 and 7720 titan 2 several years ago, so when our new to us 9650 walker machine needed rebuilt last fall it was easy. Had to prick the housing also and used sleeve retainer for the bearing. Also replaced zerk with a grease hose to relocate zerk to make it easier to grease.
Thank you Zeth for another great video. I look forward to ever one of them.
That chair can hold a 290# Sasquatch. That sure made me Lol. I love bearing and gear work setups like what you were doing. Proper backlash is very important when making gears last. Nice work again, Trent's Shop Works.
The dealer I work for in PA we send the gear boxes out to the machine shop and the install a sleeve in the center to correct this problem, cheaper then a new gear case.
That's what we do here as well, think they do them before combine even goes out for the first time
That's the only way to really fix them. There's a machine shop in Effingham that rebuilds tons of those. Apparently it's easier to just throw parts at it.
Thanks Zeth for another awesome video !!
Excellent work as always, you could and should be using 7471 primer to clean up those parts before you apply the 680 etc, the bond will be 100% better than what you are achieving right now. Its one of those things, if you know, you know how much better it is
Who's snap ring pliers do you like? I've recently upgraded to a larger machine and found my old "lawn mower" sized pliers just aren't big enough for the Green Iron.
I like to put 2 dust seals on the older style. 1 each direction. One to keep dirt out and 1 to keep grease in.
Another good one Zeth! Really like the cherry picker tool. Bet it gets your heart pumping when the auger flops back during the removal.
Thanks. It doesn’t phase me a bit
Another great video! Thanks Zeth!
I think I would just use the loctite bearing retaining compound, however with the loctite primer first. Upsetting, or peening the bearing housing may make the bearing more difficult to drive in but it actually reduces the total area of surface contact between the housing and bearing. Real fix needs to be a redesigned/modified housing with either a bearing retaining plate or at least a snap ring to secure that outer "pinon" bearing.
It would be a big help to tech’s if manufacturers would apply a little copper anti seize on splines and shafts when assembling.
Always great to follow your work!
I'm surprised those ??? Parts... ??? (I came back when someone liked my comment: I saw a Google speech to text message error word. Dunno which I meant to have in the comment. ) don't press in the housing. On my 1999 Toyota solara I had a hell of a time with the front wheel bearings; brought a Harbor freight 12-ton press to its knees.
You would not think that pressed-in hubs would stay in with all the cornering and 90 mph driving I do but they sure do.
I'm curious why a flange mount bearing could be used for the inside bearing. That would keep the housing from being damaged from the bearing walking around.
Very interesting and informative vid
Was it a shop mate that thaught you the four divots to hold the lower bearing or did you get to it by experimenting with a common housing failure issue that you wanted to extend life on?
Hi , is that timed up against the horizontal feed auger ?
Yes 90 degrees apart
@@ZKMasterTech brilliant many thanks. I look after a CTS here in UK, one of last ones , I guess I'll come across this in future, I've had a look, when I put a pry bar on bottom shaft , between shaft and nut , it lifts 3 or 4 ml, I guessed this might be acceptable. I'll keep an eye on it. Great vid. Thanks 🙏
So there is no lube to the bevel gears? how long do they last?
Love watching u I am also a john-deer mechanic I work on 6000 series and 7000 and some 4000. Would love to work on some carbine tractors
That.is a great video you do a great job of explaining in detail on what your doing exactly that is awesome I enjoy your content thanks ZK can't wait for the next one wish you did something everyday
Looked like the heat level in the shop was getting past warm.
Is there a reason why you don't use antiseize?
“Hit it with your purse” our powertrains class we had quadrange transmissions and getting the DDS loose was hell. That’s what the instructor would say you gotta hit it with your purse and it was a big hammer with purse written on it.
Highly recommend snap-ons newest largest dead blow I forgot the size I just know it puts anything else in its range and slightly bigger to shame.Thing is a absolute unit, it’s my got too now instead of my 10lb sledge if that says anything. I’m not one to write something for no reason especially about snap on but I will for that monster.
You ever change out the clean grain auger gear box?
out of curiosity have you ever worked on a forage harvester before?
Once! Never again i hope lol
Great video Zeth! That Loctite ceramic glue is some potent and bad for you stuff that's really not good for skin contact!
I'm usually not too careful with oils and chemicals on my hands and skin, except for Loctite of any kind, that stuff will mess with you in the end.
Nice video, thanks. Loved since Moby was a minnow too! LOL
Great awesome video zeth , love your videos
Thank you, so many tips that can be used in other applications. Great video.
I am disappointed that you hammered a bearing in by hitting the center race when seating the outer race in the bore you pinged with the air chisel.
Excelent tutorial .Thanks
If the housing and the bearing race were anywhere close to the same hardness you could also drill and ream a hole right on the split line and drive in a dowel pin.
I know about trick to make bearing fit tighter been there and done that. What I have seen it transfer through and each roller beat that spot because it caused high spot. Wouldn't think bearing being that hard and brittle it could do that. With what I work on there are some driveshafts with carrier bearing they knurled driveshaft, put epoxy on and put bearing on. Eaton new 12 speed, alum case steel bearings on counter shafts wear into the case. So around 250k or 300k it stops shifting either replace case or trans replacement. Fix is they now machining groove in bearing bore and putting o-ring in to stop bearing from moving. Well we will see if that works. Being cast iron maybe make something that can knurl bearing bore and epoxy/glue bearing in place
What would happen if one were to leave those gears at zero backlash? Excessive wear on the gear teeth? I'm sure the spec has a reason to call for 6/1000" minimum backlash.
great video as always... but what's up with the sound?
You can cool a shop with a 500ft spool of poly buried in the ground, a grundfos floor heat circulation pump and a radiator from a 9600 and an electric fan. The only thing is you will also need a drain...as it will sweat like crazy.
Thanks Zeth! Its all about the tips and tricks when it comes to fixing and rebuilding things. 👍
Unfortunately John Deere can’t manage to build the the gearbox properly the first time after charging hundred’s of thousands of dollars for the machine
Has anyone ever cut those bars out of the cleanout slots for better cleanout flow ?
Why not use the john deere tool to pull it?
Looks like some engineer messed up the tolerance spec on the original bore 😴
Zeth, have you tried PB Blaster penetrating grease? Might work superb for those splined shafts that are rust prone. I use it in my shop for random repairs.
Yes we have cases of it
Zeth, is there a reason why those splines aren’t anti-seized during the rebuild? Is it not recommended? Great video man!
What’s the correct way to spell wahller?
Hey Toby....we're friends bro.....we good, right?
Zeth thanks as always for another great video, however your now employing unfair methods to attract viewers, as the moment that you had your dog Toby on the screen then that was me won over! :) But as you know I am really here for the Green Iron and it was great to see you showing methods of saving customers money in these difficult times. Thanks as always from Scotland
Toby is the best lab!
Dam good job .
Interesting
Чудовий стілець для відпочинку на приклад на рибалочку
Do you donate a little time to your employer to make them good on the extra time takes to video repairs, or is you employer just pass through the hours to customers and thinks the exposure for the dealership is worth it? Just curious! I am thinking was initially a hard conversation to have with your employer around lost hours, liability etc..
POV: your a Jd tech who just got back from work watching another jd tech on TH-cam
For a much as they coat things in green... maybe a little silver (anti seize) wouldn't hurt. 😂
Always always tell people to put shields on. There’s always that one person not thinking and stick his finger in.
Bad design by Deere, should be replaced at no cost.
Anti-sisz bevel gear