For the water sloshing issue, I had this problem too. I used an aquarium air stone on the end of the hose which massively slows water but still breaths both directions. I also looked at the flow meters but I wanted something in the cab that would tell me the actual level of water in the event I had a leak (that a meter wouldn't measure), so I went with a float sensor on ebay. Accuracy is only within 15%, but that's enough for me, there are others that are far more accurate.
Yes. In industrial systems air release valves are used to let air out on filling pipes, but then float the ball up to a check seal. As water drops down, say for draining the ball floats away and lets air in. Therefore breathing for water usage.
Hi Matt. You need a reflux valve in the breather line. Or a one way hose connector from Bunnings. It will let air in but stop water coming out. Is diesel drivers have always said ‘more in the tank,longer in the bush’ 😁 keep up the great work Matt. Another awesome vid 👏👏👏
You could route the breather line to the other side of the vehicle, as long as the connection to the tank and the outlet of the breather line are on opposite sides of the vehicle that shouldn't be a problem, at least theoretically. The Citroën CX has an anode and a cathode in the coolant reservoir, measuring the resistance between those, deciding if there is water at that level, you could have some at different levels, no moving parts and lightweight.
For the breather, what about a hollow ball or float valve, ball valve. When filling the tank only air will flow as the ball will stay at the bottom of the valve but when water tries to flow through, the ball will float up and seal the outlet.
Move the interior port of the vent tube to the opposite side of the tank. In short, if the breather port is on the left in the exterior place the interior opening of the breather port on the right side. Another alternative is to install a ball overflow valve (similar to snorkels for those swimming reefs), as the water rushes to the vent port the ball floats up and blocks the tube, as inertia falls off and the water falls back the plastic ball in the trap falls down and allows air to flow.
For the water vent they make one way valves. I will only allow air or water to go one direction. You will need to put it in a location that you can easily remove or disable it for refilling. Otherwise you may find yourself having to refill at a very slow rate to allow air to return.
That’s a bloody brilliant idea. Run the breather into filler pipe. I use a tap on mine but that’s a brilliant idea for matt to try. Good idea Robert sounds like it will work perfectly
A solution has probably been found already, but here are my thoughts anyway. Have you considered putting some sort of mesh in that breather to stop the water just going through it? Something like a tea strainer type concept? That should slow down the water and avoid it going all the way through the breather line.
Had the people at LRA Newcastle install my AUX tank in my JL. Great workmanship and service. Mind you these days petrols will give diesel economy a run for their money...Steve 🇦🇺
Water tank vent: I would say put a check valve in the vent line that allows air into the tank but blocks water trying to escape. Also put a filter/screen in the line to discourage bugs from entering the tank.
@@MiniLuv-1984 yes but you have a breather line for the fuel tank. however i do believe mat was talking about the water portion of his new tank system sloshing around and spilling out the breather tube that prevents the tank from vacuum collapsing
@@grizzlybare482 I think you are right Grizzly Bare - but the same problem with a one way valve, you have to let air in when the tank is being emptied and air out when you are filling it. Also you need to allow for expansion as temperatures go up and contraction at night...though this is quite strong, it probably won't bulge when the temperature goes up even if the air line was blocked.
Concerning the water tank, perhaps adding a check valve could be an option to reduce water coming out of the tank during driving (may be is nonsense from my side).
Fair dinkum love the raw passion. Hats off to you and your team Matt. Love the work you do. A great ambassador for the 4x4 community. Off to A247 again 😁 Keep up the great work 👏👏👏
Our Tvan has twin water water tanks with water gauges. The gauges have simple units with LEDs inside the van that show full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and empty. I’m not sure what brand they are but Track Trailer could tell you.
In the middle of your breather line put in a one way ball check valve. A spring keeps the ball open until water hits then closes, this would have to be on the up side near the top of the loop so no water gets trapped in the breather line itself.
seeing as it's a bit late to put a better baffle system in the water tank. i would put an air chamber in the vent line. so basically when the vent pushes some water out the hose it enters the bottom of an empty chamber large enough to catch it and the air continues out the vent at the top, the water then drains back to the tank when not venting. to test it you could rig up a coke bottle with a hole drilled in the lid for the bottom vent hose and a hole drilled in bottom of the bottle for the top vent hose. then you can test it and see what size bottle works. then you can make a more permanent solution out of an aluminium etc. as for the water level fit a sender and gauge to it.
For the vent. how about a check ball, like a needle and seat on a carb, or one of those shake marble fuel thief hoses. as the water comes up the tube. the marble or check ball would get seated by the shifting water and seal it, then fall back down as the water falls. For the water level. why can't you just use another fuel type tank float and gauge.
If I was to move the line l would bring it as high as possible and I would put a filter on the end. Keep dirt and dust out of the tank. The flow meter is a good idea, I would verify flow rate every now and then
I've got an Australian-made aux tank for my 2 door JK Wrangler on it's way, should arrive next week! No water storage, but the extra 12 gallons of fuel will be nice since I've only got 16 gallons stock.
Matt what about putting a small tap on it to stop the water flowing out. I’ve done it on my car using the tap to stop the breather hose leaking out. Best thing I’ve ever done.
@@MadMatt4WD there was an idea that I replied to if running the breather into the filler pipe. That’s a very good idea and think it might be the answer. I’m going to try on my tank also. Can you do a video on what you go with. Would like the inspiration to do mine better
They could put a breather hole on both sides of the tank and connect them to a serge tank arangment and have a vent hose come out of the top of that. It should create a vacuum on the opposite side to the water pressure side.
G'day Matt, my ideas on the water wastage issue, maybe ditch the the breather and put a 1 way valve on the filler or maybs put a bung plug on the breather.
I don't know if It'll work maybe try a fuel tank sending unit for the water tank level. Maybe you could try an old sending unit that still works you might have around from a fuel tank in a container of fresh water and a fuel gauge to see if it'll work before you modify your in vehicle water tank.
Hi Matt, presumably the breather for the water tank is to allow air pressure to balance when you use the water. In that case a small one way valve in the breather pipe, as high as possible may help. Cheers Non Stick Nick - thank you for your content. 😀👍🇬🇧❤️🇦🇺. Also there are numerous liquid level sensing device on Amazon??
Caravan water tanks have three sensors in the tank at different heights to indicate remaining water I believe they can be retrofitted as they just drill a hole in the plastic tank and push the sensor in a rubber bung, As mentioned by others I believe a one way valve would be best for breather unless that will cause a slow fill
Have you thought about installing a kind of baffle to stop the water sloshing around in side the tank? I understand tankers use these kinds of baffles to stop any roll of weight.
Matt, I like the idea of a tank baffle... Other complex idea is to mount an accelerometer and have the output signal connected to a MAC valve that would close when yaw from turning is detected. Over thinking, I know ;)
Try a gore-tex membrane in the line/tank. It may need to be accessible to clean dust off every now and then, but the gore-tex or similar style membrane should allow for pressure equalization without allowing liquid to escape. For the water level solution, either a float system like on the fuel sender, or a liquid level sensor (a small electronic sensor strip that is usually resistive or capacitive) can be installed in the tank and glued or affixed to the inside wall (though this may be a new install option only and not a retrofit).
Nice tank combo Matt. Maybe the water tank could have a baffle clock plate placed during the molding process just in front of the water outlet hole so to allow free flow but block surge. With the tank capacity reading, i believe you can buy a tank insertable rod that monitors via electric sensors along its shaft according to the water height sent to a simple led display.
Hey Matt, you could always try the old split/Cotter pin in the end of a hollow bolt in the breather hose. Use the old bush gauge, dip a stick in to check the level
@@MadMatt4WD like the old bell housing drains, will allow air out but restrict fluid. Drill a bolt or plug out and put the Cotter pin through the hole. I have many thoughts on how to do the vent but the location of the vent affects them. Contact me if you'd to know more, happy to help. How do you know it's full when your filling it ? Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Gavin
Hmm ok I'll have to do some research on this idea. I'm not quite on top of it but i guess it's using the surface tension to create a blockage. Kinda like the tesla valve. I know it's full when the filler is full. It's a hose in the engine bay. Thanks for the support and kind words.
@@MadMatt4WD old trucks and tractors used it. As for a "permanent" repair for the manufacturer, would either a baffle or covering stop the splashing out work? Another "fix" is to have the breather come up to the inlet like the fuel filler and then a vent off it like a diff breather or a one-way valve in the filler cap.
What about an electronic check valve inline on the vent tube? If your pump comes on to create pressure everytime you use the water, you could wire it to open when the pump runs and close as soon as it shuts off. Or you could wire it to a manual switch somewhere convenient.
although 3 years ago and you have a few different cars now, this idea has merit with the electronic check valve were it turns on (closed) when the car is running, and off (open) when the car has been turned off, 9 times out of 10 you are only filling up when the car is off so the valve is open. The only concern is its a moving part and you will need to be able to service it. Be interested if they did come up with something after 3 years?
Topargee should be ok, I am going that way with my undertray water tank. Gravity feed water will not fail, pumps fail. I have a stainless steel bolt in the end of my breather that stops water coming out of breather in a finger operated hose clamp on hose. Remove bung for water usage.
Yes a simple one way valve for the water and for water usage i was thinking a float system the same as fuel guage has or like in swimming pool auto top up systems but measures water used / Thinking how to incorporate something like the old motor mowers had on the filler lid that measured how much fuel you had left in your mower
Interesting idea with the two in one. For the breather, if water can escape, can dust get in ? With your idea of raising the breather in the cab, where does the water go when it's full ? Out the breather ? Many ways to try, put some coils in the hose, a course thread in the end of the hose or a one way valve maybe, look at marine tanks, some of them have filler mounts with breathers like a fuel tank filler. It's a lot of work now, but could long ranger mount a level sender at factory ? Good luck with these 🤞👍
Add baffles to the water tanks and/or one way valve for the breather. Or run the breather up to the top of the vehicle. Don’t Redarc have an electrical water gauge?
@@MadMatt4WD if it’s got baffles it shouldn’t slosh water out. I’d be keen to see how they have designed the baffles. Potentially add more baffles, considering the maximum pressure/volume of water ever required, you can add fairly closed baffles. Hope this makes sense.
Baffles won’t stop water coming out they simply slow the water down. So when we go around a turn when the tank is full it’ll always slosh out much like a bucket that’s full of water.
My other concern about having the vent going over the axle is possible contamination of my water supply when doing river crossing. I would not want water from the tires entering my water tank.
@@michaelcarpenter557 That would mean I have the fuel filler underwater because the breather goes over the top of the fuel filler. I think thats probably fairly unlikely. I certainly hope it doesn't happen.
@@MadMatt4WD Ok small t or y at end of tube check valve on one side and a small valve on other side. Mount valve by your fill port. So you can open valve as you fill the tank, close it when your done.
Thinking some kind of float valve that is oriented in the vertical position and stops flow when rising water in the tube pushes float up. Some water may make it past until it fully engages, but would stop a run away flow.
Great video. Possibilities for your problems: Smaller breather line with a “catch can” arrangement and a longer and higher breather tube plus a non return valve. Get a small sensitive pressure gauge, and connect it on the bottom of the tank, preferably with some kind of tap to stop excess pressure damaging it.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 Yup, it was at the end of the breather. it was only 6mm hose so perhaps a larger float and ball would work better... But I didn't want to risk it. Just thought of another thing... the breather needs to be able to let some water out in the event the tank is full and the water heats up. My tank gets quite hot and some times it will purge water after several hours from the breather if I brimmed it with cold water at the start of a very hot day.
Hay brother, what about putting in a 1 way check ball system like we use on our brush truck at the Fire Dept. . The ones we run let air out but as soon as the pressure of the water hits it,it closes & blocks the water from going out... While I'm thinking about it, I'm going to be heading out to Utah this summer to catch up with Ol' FabRat, Casey & Matt... Still got to pin down the days I'm heading out there but would really like to have you come back over here too if possible. I'll be bringing my offroad overland camper I built behind my Ol' XJ to stay out there for around a week or so... Should be good family fun vacation. If you can come but only in a certain month and days, let me know what works best for you because I can pretty well head out anytime I want... Look forward to hearing back from you all. Stay safe & enjoy family fun out on your all's trails over there brother.... Everytime I watch your overlanding videos 🤔 it makes me think about pulling an old TopGear stunt and put pontoons and an outboard on my XJ & take the trip over there.... (I've always wanted to see Australia) but then I quickly remember it didn't work out to good for them when they did it...so... I guess I'll stick to watching you all wheel Australia and I'll just have to stick to wheel'n the US area...😁👍 And to all my wheel'n brothers and sisters out there.... Keep the tires aimed towards the ground and all eyes upon the Lord 👍
Heh. Even though the D40 was sold in Australia as the Navara, the aftermarket long range tanks made for it aren't exported to the US in an affordable way. It doesn't help that it's still not clear if the American D40 is more like the Spanish-assembled or the Thai-assembled models. I would gladly install an affordable long-range tank into my Frontier, but paying the better part of $1500 for a fuel tank is a nonstarter.
I'm wondering if the two issues with the water tank could be solved in the same change. If you can somehow exit the tank low into a riser tube that's visible within the passenger compartment, transition to a clear tube with graduations marked on it, then when you're past the top of the tank, transition to a flexible tube and route it around to where the routing itself changes direction enough to resist water flowing upward but still allows air to breathe. You might not be able to get the graduated tube all of the way down to the very bottom of the tank but with 55L, even you can't measure below 5L you'll still have a better idea what's going on for the duration of the filler capacity than you have right now.
Hey mate, awesome video and great channel. I have been following for a little while and love the info you put out there for everyone. I too am mounting a similar water tank setup to my LC200 and was wondering where you got that bracket between your outlet hose and the tap fitting that allows you to bolt it to the swing arm on the tyre carrier. Keep up the great videos mate. Cheers, Nathan.
Can you modify a syphon hose one way valve(or similar) to fit inline close to the tank so that when water surges the ball stops the flow but will allow the tank to breathe. And for the water level could you fit a float to the tank and have a gauge mounted somewhere? A bit of effort involved but maybe long ranger could incorporate a float in future tanks and supply a gauge.
A reflux valve in the breather line. Longranger need to do this, or you'd have to find someone who can TIG stainless: 2 nozzles, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom of the water tank, in line vertically. Clamp a clear piece of hose from 1 nozzle to the other, and there you have a sight glass. For me it wouldn't take much to drop down under the back to have a look. After you've used the tank a few times you would have a rough idea what level it's at and only have to check every now and then.
@@MadMatt4WD definitely would be, but you're pretty smart, I reckon you'd have a good handle on what water is used and keep it in the back of your mind. Mount a mirror under there so you don't have to bend down. Get someone else to do it. Set up a reverse camera under there.
@@MadMatt4WD actually, check Supercheap Auto website, search for "water tank sender." They don't have any guages, but they have guages and the same senders on rvelectronics.com.au
Awesome addition. I am currently toying with the idea of a petrol 105 myself. I have an N70 but could do with more seats for family trips. How do you find the 105 petrol in river crossings?
@@MadMatt4WD oh that makes sense, I miss that part of the video I guess. I'm just wondering in that case could you not just put a shut off for filling and emptying? When not in use for all you could just close the valve completely and as needed just open the valve similar to the one that comes out of the back of the truck? Obviously it would be much smaller like a gate valve? Just a thought. Have a GR8 day!
Do they put baffles in the tank? I have an Abbertank and as long as the breather is 5cm above the top of the tank iit doesnt leak. I would put the breather in the cabin anyway - so it doesnt mix with dust / mud etc.
I would just put a small inline fuel filter in the hose about 2 or 3" below the high point of the "apex" for lack of a better word. Should slow the flow enough to stop getting over the peak.
Great thank, I have the same but how do you find the fuel gauge calibration, I've had nothing but issue and still can't get it right. Another thing is the additional weight of the tank alone
RANT ALERT: The problem we have in the UK is the expense of these systems, in particular this brand. In the UK the Long Ranger tank for a Discovery 3/4 (perhaps becoming the most common overland platform here) is the best part of £1,500 before shipping. I've noticed this price gouging with all overland equipment in the UK, where prices seem to be at least 20% more than elsewhere. Now, I'm not blaming Long Ranger or any other manufacturer, and I understand that they need to make a profit and shipping is expensive, and I know the people we buy these products from are making little profit, but please, why are products sold in the UK often more expensive than even mainland Europe? It was like this before Brexit, so it's not just that.
@@MadMatt4WD It sure is, it just feels like you're being ripped off all the time. An ARB drawer for a Ford Ranger is £1,995 before shipping, an OzTent RV3 is £869, again before shipping. I'm fairly sure it's the distributors/importers in the UK who are milking it, some friends of mine run a very well respected outlet selling a well known South African brand, and to say the profit margins are slim would be an understatement.
But you need air flow in both direction. eg. when using water you need to allow air to enter the tank as the water level goes down, and also need air to escape when filling the tank.
@@tom6549 I should have said a one way valve on the fill cap just like a fuel tank. That idea worked well for years. Just vent back up the fill neck. Thanks for your comment.
G’day Matt, great video. What suspension upgrade did you get? I’ve got constant 300kg on my 105 & it handles the weight heaps better than standard suspension. Not that I get anywhere near the 300kg mark.
I think mines 500kg rated. It’s all terrain tamer. My biggest challenge is I go from empty to towing a car trailer and heavy so it’s all a big compromise. The pro shocks do a great job though.
I love my 92 model 80 series diesel as it has a 95ltr main tank and a 50ltr sub tank, so I alternate between tanks around town so as not to get stale fuel, but if I'm going away anywhere I make sure I have both fueled up to the filler and then I know I have a few extra kms up my sleeve also.. the only thing for me being a Diesel is I never want to get it to the yellow light as It is a bitch when you run out of fuel and have to bleed injectors etc. Which I have never done yet but am aware of the process. Re your water gauge, why not a gauge similar to a fuel tank gauge inside the tank and the gauge mounted in the dash or in the rear cargo area? Re the breather hose what about a non-return valve that opens only one way?
It's a little annoying that all our work vehicles have 2x 90 litre tanks and they only take 82 litres. WHY TOYOTA, WHY ??? Why do you do this to us ? Why can't it be 2 x 100 litre tanks which actually take 104 litres each ? In reality it's probably something to do with fuel tank size tax. I don't know...
@@MadMatt4WD Yes, we run them out of fuel and then we fill them and they usually hold about 82-84 litres and that's filled right up to the filler with pauses. I am assuming everyone's 79/78 series with 2 tanks are like that. To iterate, myself and staff drive them until the vehicle starts to cough and die from fuel starvation. It's always when the vehicle is level. It's just an anomaly with with these 90 litre tanks I suppose. No big deal but it's kind of annoying. I keep performing the experiment in the hope that one day it changes but it never does. I've never got beyond 85 litres and the tanks do not have Stoved-In areas although we drive over logs and rocks regularly - The tanks are undamaged. (everything else is bent and damaged).
We have a Topargee water meter fitted in our camper trailer (and an RV Electronics tank level gauge) and the meter has always shown an accurate reading of litres left in the 2 water tanks, even with low flow rates when the water tap is only opened to a trickle for washing hands. Also try moving the breather line over to the other side of the car, we have a 21L longranger water tank in the 4WD, it has the breather port in the centre top of the tank and have never lost water out of the breather. I have a Ryco Z675 plastic fuel filter in the breather to keep bugs and dust out, that might help too.
I see many viable solutions offered for the water leakage problem, but if I read it correctly then there is a cause for this symptom, and it is always better to solve that problem. Unfortunately that may be too late for you, but surely being sponsored the tank, there is an expectation of some payback by way of marketing, but why not also product development? All large tanks that carry liquid in vehicles should have baffles installed to stop the sloshing around of the liquid. This is especially the case for vehicles that may in extreme circumstances be driven close to their balance point. Obviously, the tank being low minimises this risk, but it is still a risk that could have been mitigated by design. Sure costs would increase a bit, but functionality would be corrected.
If the breather is only required when filling the tank or using water, you could fit a solenoid on off tap in the breather line. Tap opens when pump is on & when filling the tap.
I think the issue you’re having with water loss is siphoning. As the water makes its way over the top bend, it then can flow downhill to the bottom of the breather. If the tank end of the breather is still in water, it will keep feeding the gravity siphon out of the pipe. If your breather only went upwards it wouldn’t be able to siphon. Running it up higher would solve the sloshing too. Maybe a diff breather end on it will assist in really only letting air in and less water flow out. Losing water out the breather will also stuff your flow meter measurement.
Sure mate. There is a serious misnomer that diesel is the be all and end all Offroad. This is not actually the case. They certainly have their place but in my opinion it is for remote long distance work. So why petrol. They make more power cheaper. Cheaper to buy service and run. They’re just as reliable and the motors last as long as any diesel. My racecar engine has over 430k on it and has never been opened and I beat on it now. With the 105 I can get 1000ks from the 220liters of fuel so I can get range if I need it. Not many places in Oz where I’d have to carry extra fuel. As for power mine has a turbo and it makes way more power for the $ than a diesel will with the same spend. From what I see people judge running cost only based on the bowser price. This is incorrect. You need to consider total cost of ownership.
I have the Topagee meter on the Bushtracker's potable tank.....and I think it's pretty bloody useless to be honest. It often sends an alarm to say we've used the 90 litres, when in fact we're still at least half full. Each time I fill the potable tank I have to reset to show it's full (90 litres) and then the impeller counts down as water is used. I've been thinking of just fitting a Gardena Water Smart Flow meter. About $49- at the big green shed etc.
![[Full] 4 ต่อ 4 Celebrity EP.910 | 22 ก.ย. 67 | one31](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4TR3MVpOiw8/mqdefault.jpg)
For the water sloshing issue, I had this problem too. I used an aquarium air stone on the end of the hose which massively slows water but still breaths both directions.
I also looked at the flow meters but I wanted something in the cab that would tell me the actual level of water in the event I had a leak (that a meter wouldn't measure), so I went with a float sensor on ebay. Accuracy is only within 15%, but that's enough for me, there are others that are far more accurate.
I like the air stone idea. I’ll give that a go
Hi, about water dropping threw air line- you may put a flouting ball valve that will not allow water to flow over it but only air
Yes. In industrial systems air release valves are used to let air out on filling pipes, but then float the ball up to a check seal. As water drops down, say for draining the ball floats away and lets air in. Therefore breathing for water usage.
Thansk
What does 'threw' mean in this sentence? Did you mean 'through,' perhaps?
Hi Matt.
You need a reflux valve in the breather line. Or a one way hose connector from Bunnings. It will let air in but stop water coming out. Is diesel drivers have always said ‘more in the tank,longer in the bush’
😁 keep up the great work Matt. Another awesome vid 👏👏👏
Thanks mate
You could route the breather line to the other side of the vehicle, as long as the connection to the tank and the outlet of the breather line are on opposite sides of the vehicle that shouldn't be a problem, at least theoretically. The Citroën CX has an anode and a cathode in the coolant reservoir, measuring the resistance between those, deciding if there is water at that level, you could have some at different levels, no moving parts and lightweight.
I’d not even thought of running it across the car. That’ll work thanks
For the breather, what about a hollow ball or float valve, ball valve. When filling the tank only air will flow as the ball will stay at the bottom of the valve but when water tries to flow through, the ball will float up and seal the outlet.
I like that
@madmatt 4wd , Just messaged you a link, about 2/3's down is exactly what I was thinking of :)
Messaged on instagram👍👍
Add a one way check valve to the breather hose
Only issue I see is when filling you gotta get the air out.
Add a manual bypass?
Move the interior port of the vent tube to the opposite side of the tank. In short, if the breather port is on the left in the exterior place the interior opening of the breather port on the right side.
Another alternative is to install a ball overflow valve (similar to snorkels for those swimming reefs), as the water rushes to the vent port the ball floats up and blocks the tube, as inertia falls off and the water falls back the plastic ball in the trap falls down and allows air to flow.
Good ideas thanks
For the water vent they make one way valves. I will only allow air or water to go one direction. You will need to put it in a location that you can easily remove or disable it for refilling. Otherwise you may find yourself having to refill at a very slow rate to allow air to return.
Yes thanks
thank you for detail video
[1] water overflow or air out from tank up into high point that what fills up with water tank go into the pipe
That’s a bloody brilliant idea. Run the breather into filler pipe. I use a tap on mine but that’s a brilliant idea for matt to try. Good idea Robert sounds like it will work perfectly
Thanks mate
Got a LRA 134L on my Defender - best mod!!!
Nice
A solution has probably been found already, but here are my thoughts anyway. Have you considered putting some sort of mesh in that breather to stop the water just going through it? Something like a tea strainer type concept? That should slow down the water and avoid it going all the way through the breather line.
Actually I haven’t done anything to fix it. Hmmmm
Had the people at LRA Newcastle install my AUX tank in my JL. Great workmanship and service. Mind you these days petrols will give diesel economy a run for their money...Steve 🇦🇺
Love my petrols
Water tank vent: I would say put a check valve in the vent line that allows air into the tank but blocks water trying to escape. Also put a filter/screen in the line to discourage bugs from entering the tank.
Good points
I carry 20 gallons in cans and have another 15 gallon aluminum extended range tank on my Taco. Works great. Nice video. Good advice.
Cool
Fantastic mod ! More fuel and water storage/management is an issue for everyone the minute you start the trip.
True.
i suggest a float system to monitor the amount and a one way flow valve on the breather tube or baffles in the tank
Won't a one way valve on the breather create a vacuum in the tank as you use the fuel?
@@MiniLuv-1984 on the fuel if it is a one way it will let the air in but not the fuel out
@@grizzlybare482 The air and the fuel lines are separate aren't they?
@@MiniLuv-1984 yes but you have a breather line for the fuel tank. however i do believe mat was talking about the water portion of his new tank system sloshing around and spilling out the breather tube that prevents the tank from vacuum collapsing
@@grizzlybare482 I think you are right Grizzly Bare - but the same problem with a one way valve, you have to let air in when the tank is being emptied and air out when you are filling it. Also you need to allow for expansion as temperatures go up and contraction at night...though this is quite strong, it probably won't bulge when the temperature goes up even if the air line was blocked.
Concerning the water tank, perhaps adding a check valve could be an option to reduce water coming out of the tank during driving (may be is nonsense from my side).
Fair dinkum love the raw passion.
Hats off to you and your team Matt.
Love the work you do. A great ambassador for the 4x4 community.
Off to A247 again 😁
Keep up the great work 👏👏👏
🥰
check valve like the "jiggla" siphon hose used to get fuel from one motorbike to another
Our Tvan has twin water water tanks with water gauges. The gauges have simple units with LEDs inside the van that show full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, and empty. I’m not sure what brand they are but Track Trailer could tell you.
Thanks
In the middle of your breather line put in a one way ball check valve. A spring keeps the ball open until water hits then closes, this would have to be on the up side near the top of the loop so no water gets trapped in the breather line itself.
Thanks
seeing as it's a bit late to put a better baffle system in the water tank. i would put an air chamber in the vent line. so basically when the vent pushes some water out the hose it enters the bottom of an empty chamber large enough to catch it and the air continues out the vent at the top, the water then drains back to the tank when not venting. to test it you could rig up a coke bottle with a hole drilled in the lid for the bottom vent hose and a hole drilled in bottom of the bottle for the top vent hose. then you can test it and see what size bottle works. then you can make a more permanent solution out of an aluminium etc.
as for the water level fit a sender and gauge to it.
I like that idea. I’ll look into it.
For the vent. how about a check ball, like a needle and seat on a carb, or one of those shake marble fuel thief hoses. as the water comes up the tube. the marble or check ball would get seated by the shifting water and seal it, then fall back down as the water falls. For the water level. why can't you just use another fuel type tank float and gauge.
To mod the tank would be difficult. I’ll think on the check ball
If I was to move the line l would bring it as high as possible and I would put a filter on the end. Keep dirt and dust out of the tank. The flow meter is a good idea, I would verify flow rate every now and then
good points
I've got an Australian-made aux tank for my 2 door JK Wrangler on it's way, should arrive next week! No water storage, but the extra 12 gallons of fuel will be nice since I've only got 16 gallons stock.
Awesome
Matt what about putting a small tap on it to stop the water flowing out. I’ve done it on my car using the tap to stop the breather hose leaking out. Best thing I’ve ever done.
That would work so long as we remember to open and close it. Thanks
@@MadMatt4WD there was an idea that I replied to if running the breather into the filler pipe. That’s a very good idea and think it might be the answer. I’m going to try on my tank also. Can you do a video on what you go with. Would like the inspiration to do mine better
Seal breather, pump air in tank to get water.
Use simple mechanical counter/meter fo water. They are precise up to 0.1 liter.
Thanks
Water level sensors are pretty common place these days. Another option is a float system the same as the fuel tank.
True.
They could put a breather hole on both sides of the tank and connect them to a serge tank arangment and have a vent hose come out of the top of that. It should create a vacuum on the opposite side to the water pressure side.
Good thought
Have you sorted the solutions to these problems yet
G'day Matt, my ideas on the water wastage issue, maybe ditch the the breather and put a 1 way valve on the filler or maybs put a bung plug on the breather.
Thanks I’ll consider that.
I don't know if It'll work maybe try a fuel tank sending unit for the water tank level.
Maybe you could try an old sending unit that still works you might have around from a fuel tank in a container of fresh water and a fuel gauge to see if it'll work before you modify your in vehicle water tank.
Modifying the tank to fit that would be a big job.
Hi Matt, presumably the breather for the water tank is to allow air pressure to balance when you use the water. In that case a small one way valve in the breather pipe, as high as possible may help. Cheers Non Stick Nick - thank you for your content. 😀👍🇬🇧❤️🇦🇺. Also there are numerous liquid level sensing device on Amazon??
Thanks mate. We have to let air out when filling it.
Caravan water tanks have three sensors in the tank at different heights to indicate remaining water I believe they can be retrofitted as they just drill a hole in the plastic tank and push the sensor in a rubber bung, As mentioned by others I believe a one way valve would be best for breather unless that will cause a slow fill
Thanks. I think the one way valve won’t work.
@@MadMatt4WD thanks for the great content as always
The tank should be properly baffled so that it does not slosh when going around corners.
These do have that.
Have you thought about installing a kind of baffle to stop the water sloshing around in side the tank? I understand tankers use these kinds of baffles to stop any roll of weight.
Unfortunately we can’t get into the tank
Matt, I like the idea of a tank baffle... Other complex idea is to mount an accelerometer and have the output signal connected to a MAC valve that would close when yaw from turning is detected. Over thinking, I know ;)
Lol. I’m not building a space ship. 😂😂😂
I see Matt at the shops but felt shy to say hello...
Oh dude. Seriously you should have come and said Hi. When was this?
Try a gore-tex membrane in the line/tank. It may need to be accessible to clean dust off every now and then, but the gore-tex or similar style membrane should allow for pressure equalization without allowing liquid to escape.
For the water level solution, either a float system like on the fuel sender, or a liquid level sensor (a small electronic sensor strip that is usually resistive or capacitive) can be installed in the tank and glued or affixed to the inside wall (though this may be a new install option only and not a retrofit).
Some good ideas thanks
Nice tank combo Matt. Maybe the water tank could have a baffle clock plate placed during the molding process just in front of the water outlet hole so to allow free flow but block surge. With the tank capacity reading, i believe you can buy a tank insertable rod that monitors via electric sensors along its shaft according to the water height sent to a simple led display.
Thanks mate
Hey Matt, you could always try the old split/Cotter pin in the end of a hollow bolt in the breather hose.
Use the old bush gauge, dip a stick in to check the level
Whats the cotter pin idea? it's hard to access the tank
@@MadMatt4WD like the old bell housing drains, will allow air out but restrict fluid. Drill a bolt or plug out and put the Cotter pin through the hole.
I have many thoughts on how to do the vent but the location of the vent affects them. Contact me if you'd to know more, happy to help.
How do you know it's full when your filling it ?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Gavin
Hmm ok I'll have to do some research on this idea. I'm not quite on top of it but i guess it's using the surface tension to create a blockage. Kinda like the tesla valve. I know it's full when the filler is full. It's a hose in the engine bay. Thanks for the support and kind words.
@@MadMatt4WD old trucks and tractors used it.
As for a "permanent" repair for the manufacturer, would either a baffle or covering stop the splashing out work?
Another "fix" is to have the breather come up to the inlet like the fuel filler and then a vent off it like a diff breather or a one-way valve in the filler cap.
What about a ball valve on the fill line if possible
What about an electronic check valve inline on the vent tube? If your pump comes on to create pressure everytime you use the water, you could wire it to open when the pump runs and close as soon as it shuts off. Or you could wire it to a manual switch somewhere convenient.
That’s clever.
although 3 years ago and you have a few different cars now, this idea has merit with the electronic check valve were it turns on (closed) when the car is running, and off (open) when the car has been turned off, 9 times out of 10 you are only filling up when the car is off so the valve is open. The only concern is its a moving part and you will need to be able to service it.
Be interested if they did come up with something after 3 years?
Topargee should be ok, I am going that way with my undertray water tank. Gravity feed water will not fail, pumps fail. I have a stainless steel bolt in the end of my breather that stops water coming out of breather in a finger operated hose clamp on hose. Remove bung for water usage.
That’s nice and simple.
Yes a simple one way valve for the water and for water usage i was thinking a float system the same as fuel guage has or like in swimming pool auto top up systems but measures water used / Thinking how to incorporate something like the old motor mowers had on the filler lid that measured how much fuel you had left in your mower
Interesting ideas
Water breather I would tap the breather into the filler hose at it’s highest point and put a breather cap.
I see the merit of this
Hi Matt. What about a small ball tape, open to fill and use, close when traveling.
I’m thinking that could be the simplest solution but on a seperate line and the breather has a one way valve In it
We used that system on overhead fuel tanks on the farm to stop evaporation
Interesting idea with the two in one.
For the breather, if water can escape, can dust get in ?
With your idea of raising the breather in the cab, where does the water go when it's full ? Out the breather ?
Many ways to try, put some coils in the hose, a course thread in the end of the hose or a one way valve maybe, look at marine tanks, some of them have filler mounts with breathers like a fuel tank filler.
It's a lot of work now, but could long ranger mount a level sender at factory ?
Good luck with these 🤞👍
Cheers
Add baffles to the water tanks and/or one way valve for the breather. Or run the breather up to the top of the vehicle.
Don’t Redarc have an electrical water gauge?
This does have baffles. A one way valve won’t solve the problem on its own because you need to fill the tank.
@@MadMatt4WD if it’s got baffles it shouldn’t slosh water out. I’d be keen to see how they have designed the baffles. Potentially add more baffles, considering the maximum pressure/volume of water ever required, you can add fairly closed baffles. Hope this makes sense.
Baffles won’t stop water coming out they simply slow the water down. So when we go around a turn when the tank is full it’ll always slosh out much like a bucket that’s full of water.
My other concern about having the vent going over the axle is possible contamination of my water supply when doing river crossing. I would not want water from the tires entering my water tank.
Interesting thought. I don’t think I would happen but hey I could theoretically
@@MadMatt4WD If you submerge your vent it may back flow into the tank.
@@michaelcarpenter557 That would mean I have the fuel filler underwater because the breather goes over the top of the fuel filler. I think thats probably fairly unlikely. I certainly hope it doesn't happen.
Add a roll over vent in before the hose goes over the filler pipe
Thanks
Add a check valve to the breather line.
Air in nothing out
RV water sensors installed into tank hooked into a monitor to read levels
Only issue I see is when filling you gotta get the air out.
@@MadMatt4WD
Ok small t or y at end of tube check valve on one side and a small valve on other side.
Mount valve by your fill port. So you can open valve as you fill the tank, close it when your done.
Inline check valve should fix your water dump issue.
Only issue I see is when filling you gotta get the air out.
@@MadMatt4WD I'm guessing whatever you fill it with isn't a tight seal and the air will vent out the fill hole.
Thinking some kind of float valve that is oriented in the vertical position and stops flow when rising water in the tube pushes float up. Some water may make it past until it fully engages, but would stop a run away flow.
That’s an interesting idea
Great video.
Possibilities for your problems:
Smaller breather line with a “catch can” arrangement and a longer and higher breather tube plus a non return valve.
Get a small sensitive pressure gauge, and connect it on the bottom of the tank, preferably with some kind of tap to stop excess pressure damaging it.
I gave this a try, the issue here is that the ball would engage if I filled the tank too fast, this cause the tank to almost burst...
@@Sethjxl do you think the ball float was activated by escaping air? I'm talking about a float valve further up the breather tube.
@@johnfitzgerald5158 Yup, it was at the end of the breather. it was only 6mm hose so perhaps a larger float and ball would work better... But I didn't want to risk it.
Just thought of another thing... the breather needs to be able to let some water out in the event the tank is full and the water heats up. My tank gets quite hot and some times it will purge water after several hours from the breather if I brimmed it with cold water at the start of a very hot day.
Hay brother, what about putting in a 1 way check ball system like we use on our brush truck at the Fire Dept. . The ones we run let air out but as soon as the pressure of the water hits it,it closes & blocks the water from going out...
While I'm thinking about it, I'm going to be heading out to Utah this summer to catch up with Ol' FabRat, Casey & Matt... Still got to pin down the days I'm heading out there but would really like to have you come back over here too if possible. I'll be bringing my offroad overland camper I built behind my Ol' XJ to stay out there for around a week or so... Should be good family fun vacation. If you can come but only in a certain month and days, let me know what works best for you because I can pretty well head out anytime I want...
Look forward to hearing back from you all. Stay safe & enjoy family fun out on your all's trails over there brother....
Everytime I watch your overlanding videos 🤔 it makes me think about pulling an old TopGear stunt and put pontoons and an outboard on my XJ & take the trip over there....
(I've always wanted to see Australia)
but then I quickly remember it didn't work out to good for them when they did it...so... I guess I'll stick to watching you all wheel Australia and I'll just have to stick to wheel'n the US area...😁👍
And to all my wheel'n brothers and sisters out there....
Keep the tires aimed towards the ground and all eyes upon the Lord 👍
Cheers. I don’t know when I’ll next be in the US. You’ll have fun hanging out with those guys. Enjoy the trip.
@@MadMatt4WD ok & will do... I still want to see you bring your race car over one day and run with those guys 😁👍 take care & have fun brother...
Heh. Even though the D40 was sold in Australia as the Navara, the aftermarket long range tanks made for it aren't exported to the US in an affordable way. It doesn't help that it's still not clear if the American D40 is more like the Spanish-assembled or the Thai-assembled models.
I would gladly install an affordable long-range tank into my Frontier, but paying the better part of $1500 for a fuel tank is a nonstarter.
That sucks ay
I'm wondering if the two issues with the water tank could be solved in the same change. If you can somehow exit the tank low into a riser tube that's visible within the passenger compartment, transition to a clear tube with graduations marked on it, then when you're past the top of the tank, transition to a flexible tube and route it around to where the routing itself changes direction enough to resist water flowing upward but still allows air to breathe.
You might not be able to get the graduated tube all of the way down to the very bottom of the tank but with 55L, even you can't measure below 5L you'll still have a better idea what's going on for the duration of the filler capacity than you have right now.
Thanks I’ll give it some thought.
Hey mate, awesome video and great channel. I have been following for a little while and love the info you put out there for everyone. I too am mounting a similar water tank setup to my LC200 and was wondering where you got that bracket between your outlet hose and the tap fitting that allows you to bolt it to the swing arm on the tyre carrier.
Keep up the great videos mate.
Cheers, Nathan.
Thanks Nathan. I made that up myself out of some scrap odds and ends.
@@MadMatt4WD Nice work. Thanks for the response, appreciate it!
How about a basic fuel float to measure the water tank, just would need to add another gauge to the dash.
Yes but modifying the tank would be difficult.
So true Matt i did not know that bot are all long range tanks as good all or do you prefere brand name
This is the first tank I’ve had.
@@MadMatt4WD so its good do you recoment a company besids 4x4 mega word to install one of can i buy it and instaal it my self
Well I’d recommend the long ranger. Yes you could install it.
Flapper Valve ?
I’ll think about that
Can you modify a syphon hose one way valve(or similar) to fit inline close to the tank so that when water surges the ball stops the flow but will allow the tank to breathe. And for the water level could you fit a float to the tank and have a gauge mounted somewhere? A bit of effort involved but maybe long ranger could incorporate a float in future tanks and supply a gauge.
I’ll think on those ideas. Thanks
love my 1fz too #teamservo
Liked! Subscribed and hit the bell!!!!
Thanks heaps
A reflux valve in the breather line.
Longranger need to do this, or you'd have to find someone who can TIG stainless: 2 nozzles, 1 at the top and 1 at the bottom of the water tank, in line vertically. Clamp a clear piece of hose from 1 nozzle to the other, and there you have a sight glass.
For me it wouldn't take much to drop down under the back to have a look. After you've used the tank a few times you would have a rough idea what level it's at and only have to check every now and then.
Do I win a tank from Longranger for fixing their product issues? 😆
Ha ha ha.
I could do that but I feel it would be a hassle to climb under and view. It would be over the rear diff.
@@MadMatt4WD definitely would be, but you're pretty smart, I reckon you'd have a good handle on what water is used and keep it in the back of your mind.
Mount a mirror under there so you don't have to bend down.
Get someone else to do it.
Set up a reverse camera under there.
@@MadMatt4WD actually, check Supercheap Auto website, search for "water tank sender." They don't have any guages, but they have guages and the same senders on rvelectronics.com.au
A one way check valve should fix the problem
Gotta let air out when filling
@@MadMatt4WD oh yeah, 😂 duh, my bad. What about an overflow tank like your cooling system? Higher as you suggest should also work.
Awesome addition. I am currently toying with the idea of a petrol 105 myself. I have an N70 but could do with more seats for family trips. How do you find the 105 petrol in river crossings?
Great truck. So long as the systems are in good order it’s fine with water.
Matt, Why not use a one way valve for the water problem?
Mainly because the hose has to go both ways for when you’re filling the tank and using the tank
@@MadMatt4WD oh that makes sense, I miss that part of the video I guess. I'm just wondering in that case could you not just put a shut off for filling and emptying? When not in use for all you could just close the valve completely and as needed just open the valve similar to the one that comes out of the back of the truck? Obviously it would be much smaller like a gate valve? Just a thought. Have a GR8 day!
I’m pondering that idea.
Put in a PCV valve.
Thats good for emptying it but what about when letting the air out when filling?
Why did you choose petrol over diesel
Numerous reasons. Cheaper cost of ownership and more power being the two main ones.
is a manual better than automatic on off-road
No. Not even close. Auto is complete control
Do they put baffles in the tank? I have an Abbertank and as long as the breather is 5cm above the top of the tank iit doesnt leak. I would put the breather in the cabin anyway - so it doesnt mix with dust / mud etc.
I don’t think so.
Doesn’t the extra weight mean the car will consume more fuel?
Of course that will play into it.
Hi Matt, was this tank something that was done exclusively for you? I tried to find it but cannot see it in their website at all. Cheers
Hey mate. No It was off the shelf. try this link. thelongranger.com.au/toyota/landcruiser/100-series/tr62p
@@MadMatt4WD Got it! I was hoping that it would fit on the 80 series, but apparently it doesn’t. Cheers anyway
I would just put a small inline fuel filter in the hose about 2 or 3" below the high point of the "apex" for lack of a better word. Should slow the flow enough to stop getting over the peak.
They say that works except once the paper gets wet it blocks with dust.
Great thank, I have the same but how do you find the fuel gauge calibration, I've had nothing but issue and still can't get it right.
Another thing is the additional weight of the tank alone
I’ve had no issues with the gauge. I go for 250ks before it moves of full and then not long after the fuel light comes on it runs out.
RANT ALERT: The problem we have in the UK is the expense of these systems, in particular this brand. In the UK the Long Ranger tank for a Discovery 3/4 (perhaps becoming the most common overland platform here) is the best part of £1,500 before shipping. I've noticed this price gouging with all overland equipment in the UK, where prices seem to be at least 20% more than elsewhere. Now, I'm not blaming Long Ranger or any other manufacturer, and I understand that they need to make a profit and shipping is expensive, and I know the people we buy these products from are making little profit, but please, why are products sold in the UK often more expensive than even mainland Europe? It was like this before Brexit, so it's not just that.
I have no idea but can understand the frustration.
@@MadMatt4WD It sure is, it just feels like you're being ripped off all the time. An ARB drawer for a Ford Ranger is £1,995 before shipping, an OzTent RV3 is £869, again before shipping. I'm fairly sure it's the distributors/importers in the UK who are milking it, some friends of mine run a very well respected outlet selling a well known South African brand, and to say the profit margins are slim would be an understatement.
Like others a one way valve would be sufficient
But you need air flow in both direction. eg. when using water you need to allow air to enter the tank as the water level goes down, and also need air to escape when filling the tank.
@@tom6549 I should have said a one way valve on the fill cap just like a fuel tank. That idea worked well for years. Just vent back up the fill neck. Thanks for your comment.
Hi Matt. Can I ask where you got the tank installed please? Thank you
Out of town 4wd in Newcastle.
G’day Matt, great video. What suspension upgrade did you get? I’ve got constant 300kg on my 105 & it handles the weight heaps better than standard suspension. Not that I get anywhere near the 300kg mark.
I think mines 500kg rated. It’s all terrain tamer. My biggest challenge is I go from empty to towing a car trailer and heavy so it’s all a big compromise. The pro shocks do a great job though.
I love my 92 model 80 series diesel as it has a 95ltr main tank and a 50ltr sub tank, so I alternate between tanks around town so as not to get stale fuel, but if I'm going away anywhere I make sure I have both fueled up to the filler and then I know I have a few extra kms up my sleeve also.. the only thing for me being a Diesel is I never want to get it to the yellow light as It is a bitch when you run out of fuel and have to bleed injectors etc. Which I have never done yet but am aware of the process. Re your water gauge, why not a gauge similar to a fuel tank gauge inside the tank and the gauge mounted in the dash or in the rear cargo area? Re the breather hose what about a non-return valve that opens only one way?
Thanks mate. Will consider
Would a sender unit like you have in the fuel tank work?
Yes but hard to retrofit
Also don’t use water for washing your hands. Is baby wipes. They work great!! That way your not wasting drinking water on your hands
Oh we’re onto that. We even use them for washing dishes
I love them!! Use them for dishes, face washing hand washing cleaning inside my vehicle and a thousand other things! They are great!
Same tank as mine Matt, only mine is all 185L of that oily diesel stuff. What is that stuff on your tailgate?
That’ll get you a fair way. I’m not sure what product it is.
@@MadMatt4WD
When is the walk around of your 105?
26L/100! Phooaaaarr! Economical? I thought 11L/100 is already a thirsty economy!
11l/100 is so boring.
@@MadMatt4WD not for the wallet!!
@@MadMatt4WD 🤣🤣 I reckon hey! I have to do a bit of weight reduction.... on myself! Aiming to get around sub 9L
It's a little annoying that all our work vehicles have 2x 90 litre tanks and they only take 82 litres. WHY TOYOTA, WHY ??? Why do you do this to us ? Why can't it be 2 x 100 litre tanks which actually take 104 litres each ?
In reality it's probably something to do with fuel tank size tax. I don't know...
Do you run them empty? Most Toyotas will get 100ks once the light comes on. My 80 which had a 90l main took 95 when I ran out.
@@MadMatt4WD Yes, we run them out of fuel and then we fill them and they usually hold about 82-84 litres and that's filled right up to the filler with pauses.
I am assuming everyone's 79/78 series with 2 tanks are like that.
To iterate, myself and staff drive them until the vehicle starts to cough and die from fuel starvation. It's always when the vehicle is level.
It's just an anomaly with with these 90 litre tanks I suppose. No big deal but it's kind of annoying.
I keep performing the experiment in the hope that one day it changes but it never does.
I've never got beyond 85 litres and the tanks do not have Stoved-In areas although we drive over logs and rocks regularly - The tanks are undamaged. (everything else is bent and damaged).
@@adelarsen9776 well who knows what that about then. Longranger make great long range tanks so that’s an option if needed
@@MadMatt4WD Thank you.
Just don’t turn right
I like your thinking
Your an early bird
We have a Topargee water meter fitted in our camper trailer (and an RV Electronics tank level gauge) and the meter has always shown an accurate reading of litres left in the 2 water tanks, even with low flow rates when the water tap is only opened to a trickle for washing hands. Also try moving the breather line over to the other side of the car, we have a 21L longranger water tank in the 4WD, it has the breather port in the centre top of the tank and have never lost water out of the breather. I have a Ryco Z675 plastic fuel filter in the breather to keep bugs and dust out, that might help too.
Thanks
I see many viable solutions offered for the water leakage problem, but if I read it correctly then there is a cause for this symptom, and it is always better to solve that problem. Unfortunately that may be too late for you, but surely being sponsored the tank, there is an expectation of some payback by way of marketing, but why not also product development? All large tanks that carry liquid in vehicles should have baffles installed to stop the sloshing around of the liquid. This is especially the case for vehicles that may in extreme circumstances be driven close to their balance point. Obviously, the tank being low minimises this risk, but it is still a risk that could have been mitigated by design. Sure costs would increase a bit, but functionality would be corrected.
I know the fuel tank is baffled I’m not sure about the water tank.
If the breather is only required when filling the tank or using water, you could fit a solenoid on off tap in the breather line. Tap opens when pump is on & when filling the tap.
I do like that idea.
I think the issue you’re having with water loss is siphoning. As the water makes its way over the top bend, it then can flow downhill to the bottom of the breather. If the tank end of the breather is still in water, it will keep feeding the gravity siphon out of the pipe. If your breather only went upwards it wouldn’t be able to siphon. Running it up higher would solve the sloshing too. Maybe a diff breather end on it will assist in really only letting air in and less water flow out. Losing water out the breather will also stuff your flow meter measurement.
I think your onto something there.
Serious question Matt. Why do not swap to a diesel 4by?
Sure mate. There is a serious misnomer that diesel is the be all and end all Offroad. This is not actually the case. They certainly have their place but in my opinion it is for remote long distance work. So why petrol. They make more power cheaper. Cheaper to buy service and run. They’re just as reliable and the motors last as long as any diesel. My racecar engine has over 430k on it and has never been opened and I beat on it now. With the 105 I can get 1000ks from the 220liters of fuel so I can get range if I need it. Not many places in Oz where I’d have to carry extra fuel. As for power mine has a turbo and it makes way more power for the $ than a diesel will with the same spend. From what I see people judge running cost only based on the bowser price. This is incorrect. You need to consider total cost of ownership.
I have the Topagee meter on the Bushtracker's potable tank.....and I think it's pretty bloody useless to be honest. It often sends an alarm to say we've used the 90 litres, when in fact we're still at least half full. Each time I fill the potable tank I have to reset to show it's full (90 litres) and then the impeller counts down as water is used.
I've been thinking of just fitting a Gardena Water Smart Flow meter. About $49- at the big green shed etc.
Hmmm. That sucks. I wonder if the water slosh in the line affects the readings
I would highly recommend looking in to the boating industry. They do your problems all the time!
That sounds like a plan :)
Run the breather on the opposite side of the vehicle from the side of the tank the breather line is tapped into the tank.
That’s what I’m thinking as well. Kind like a race car fuel rollover system.
Why not 1HD-FTE swap first?
No way. This motor is heaps better.