There is a bit involved, if you can get the wheel well outer skin and the door jam lower section I highly recommended doing it whilst your in there as you may have some rust deeper in that is not visible.. I found some parts had rusted from inside out. Also check the drain bung in your rear wheel well.
Good work! I have a question please. At 11:18 in the video, you see the last bolt hole for the fender? If you follow the wheel arch down to where it stops, that small area from there to the door is completely open on my bug. If you dropped a small socket from the trunk up top, it would fall through to the floor. This is a replacement panel on mine, and I have no idea if it's supposed to be all the way open, completely closed, or closed with a hole for drainage. Any thoughts?
We're doing an electric conversion of a Beetle and thinking about sending the high voltage cables from frant to back through the heater channels, as we don't need them for heat. I was trying to see in the video, but I'm still uncertain: are there any obstructions inside the heater "pipe"? Like pieces of metal welded in for better airflow that could damage the cables? We will of course use conduit around the cable. Would it be easy to run the wires through?
That sounds pretty cool! The bolts from underneath poke through and it depends on the year some have air pipe ducts made from metal to help guide the air.. hope this helps. Otherwise look into the gear shifter tunnel with some modifications it may work
Great video. I have a 73 Super Beetle that has the same problem with the forward heater channels. Purchased the same replacement sections as you had in the video. Wanted to get your thoughts on if you think these could be replaced without lifting the the body off the floor pans. I'm concerned that I would break the body bolts or nuts that are welded into the channels trying to get them out. The two bolts that go into the very front of the channel Im not so concerned as they are replaced with the new sections. Nice Jb!
Hey man I would definitely recommend pulling the body up even enough to just get the pans in, it’s a tonne of work and I found rust in hidden spot that would be hard to access otherwise/ repair.. the nuts in the heater channel are very strong from my experience. If they are rusted then your best to do those now to..
@@stevenfroemming8711 no worries if you need anymore help I’m happy to talk on email if it’s easier it’s in the description. Check your rear wheel arches down the bottom near the suspension pivot point mine had a little bit of rust in the drain bung.. easy to get to when the body is off
Couple of questions. 1) There were 2 body bolts that went up from the floor pan into the heter channel. The new heater channel does not have any metal or these body nuts that would match up with the pan. Were your the same and if so how did you address the missing nut plates. 2) The 2 bolts at the very front of the heter channel broke off. The new channel has the nut plates. Any suggestion on how to get old section out. 3) One of the very front bolts that goes thru the cross member broke when getting the body off. Any suggestion on how to best fix this. Hate to cut it open. Was thinking of welding in a stud and use a nut.
Great work!!
Nice work 👏. The replacement of panels is tedious, and it takes forever. But it's well worth it. Looks like new.Thanks for another great video.
Great video!
I'm going to have to do this same exact patch.
There is a bit involved, if you can get the wheel well outer skin and the door jam lower section I highly recommended doing it whilst your in there as you may have some rust deeper in that is not visible.. I found some parts had rusted from inside out. Also check the drain bung in your rear wheel well.
Can't wait to see another video on the mower.
I can’t wait to get back on it not long now just running out of room in the shed to do both haha.
Good work! I have a question please. At 11:18 in the video, you see the last bolt hole for the fender? If you follow the wheel arch down to where it stops, that small area from there to the door is completely open on my bug. If you dropped a small socket from the trunk up top, it would fall through to the floor. This is a replacement panel on mine, and I have no idea if it's supposed to be all the way open, completely closed, or closed with a hole for drainage. Any thoughts?
Send me an email I can try get photos if you send me a picture of what you need? Engineeredtodesign@gmail.com
We're doing an electric conversion of a Beetle and thinking about sending the high voltage cables from frant to back through the heater channels, as we don't need them for heat. I was trying to see in the video, but I'm still uncertain: are there any obstructions inside the heater "pipe"? Like pieces of metal welded in for better airflow that could damage the cables? We will of course use conduit around the cable. Would it be easy to run the wires through?
That sounds pretty cool! The bolts from underneath poke through and it depends on the year some have air pipe ducts made from metal to help guide the air.. hope this helps. Otherwise look into the gear shifter tunnel with some modifications it may work
@@EngineeredToDesign Thank you so much, that definitely helps!
Great video. I have a 73 Super Beetle that has the same problem with the forward heater channels. Purchased the same replacement sections as you had in the video. Wanted to get your thoughts on if you think these could be replaced without lifting the the body off the floor pans. I'm concerned that I would break the body bolts or nuts that are welded into the channels trying to get them out. The two bolts that go into the very front of the channel Im not so concerned as they are replaced with the new sections.
Nice Jb!
Hey man I would definitely recommend pulling the body up even enough to just get the pans in, it’s a tonne of work and I found rust in hidden spot that would be hard to access otherwise/ repair.. the nuts in the heater channel are very strong from my experience. If they are rusted then your best to do those now to..
Thanks for getting back to me. Will hopefully be able to get it off a few inches to get them replaced.@@EngineeredToDesign
@@stevenfroemming8711 no worries if you need anymore help I’m happy to talk on email if it’s easier it’s in the description. Check your rear wheel arches down the bottom near the suspension pivot point mine had a little bit of rust in the drain bung.. easy to get to when the body is off
Couple of questions. 1) There were 2 body bolts that went up from the floor pan into the heter channel. The new heater channel does not have any metal or these body nuts that would match up with the pan. Were your the same and if so how did you address the missing nut plates. 2) The 2 bolts at the very front of the heter channel broke off. The new channel has the nut plates. Any suggestion on how to get old section out. 3) One of the very front bolts that goes thru the cross member broke when getting the body off. Any suggestion on how to best fix this. Hate to cut it open. Was thinking of welding in a stud and use a nut.
Hey mate it would be easier if you could email me a couple of pictures for me to take a look at? I’ll try help my best.
Engineeredtodesign@gmail.com