The ability to see the how meter readings compare to the dynamic range of the my camera is worth the price. I've been using an L-358 for many years and I didn't buy the L-757. But, I've been working with my new L-858 for a few days and am heading out on a tour of the southwestern U.S. This is a really instructive video Joe...thanks.
Stumbled onto one of your videos yesterday on using a light meter. Been shooting many years, mostly ambient light, and did use a Sekonic Studio Deluxe II especially with my 5x7 and much beloved Fujica 645 . Gave up using meters when I bought my first digital, a Fuji, followed by Sony Mavica then a few iterations of Canon Rebels. Needed to begin work with video and bought a GH4 last year. I have truly struggled with getting proper lighting and I can't even remember what video of yours I saw first, but I have watched maybe 10 hours of your webinars. I have learned more of value in less than a day than in any given year of my 4 decades of photography. I put my old meter up for sale and ordered the Sekonic 478DR last night. Oh yeah, just remembered that it was your Bakery ad shoot I saw first! I have to say that this past year I've watched a lot of Tony and Chelsea Northrup, Curtis Judd and The Basic Filmaker and am grateful to them as well, BUT you have given mean unbounded sense of hope and I can't wait for Saturday's delivery. Thanks again!
same boat. Thought I could do life without a meter, but not having the light information is really holding me back. Honestly TTL is a crutch, and even with spot metering can do only do so much. I even read even the global {what comes with it settings} are prefect so I may not need to do this whole computer programming stuff, just tweak the meter lighting a little.
I purchased a new L-758DR. It will be delivered next week. I am preparing by watching your videos. Great stuff ! In this video at 22:20 you measure a mid-tone, brights and darks. You enter these in the meters memory. Then you move the mid-tone up to make sure the measured tonal range fits into the tonal range of your camera. But what if the measured tonale range is larger than the the tonal range of your camera. So bracketing is needed. How would you proceed ? How can the L-758DR be used to do that ?
Best turtorial so far on the Sekonic light meter. I am trying to follow step by step but I have a challenge since I am using the L858 model. At 19:56 time stamp...how would I manually move my midtone since the L858 model doesnˋt have the physical mode and midtone buttons? I would love to see this exact tutorial updatde using the l858 model. Thanks in advance.
IF you select the tool icon you can select your mid tone. You will need to create an exposure profile to see the over and over boundaries. You can move you mid tone once set by changing the ISO or shutter shutter speed.
Beautiful Joe.. I still use my L-478dr, a bit of a pain to change to my 5 degree but it all works out in the end. I have to upgrade, I know. Have a great day. Stay safe
WOW , thought I know the 758, didnt know that I can move the MID GRAY Value afterwards (I just calculated this always in mind)... We did DTS the Sony FS7 in Log Mode too, but its a bit tricky since Sony Log is "unbalanced" (+6 up, -8 down, mid gray is not in the middle), but eve this can be done. Thanks for the great video. Uli
Very interesting information. I wonder if you can create an exposure profile for a specific film, say fuji valve 50 and if it would be of any use. I am trying to understand if such a comprehensive light meter would have any real use in film photography or if I would be better with a simpler model.
A good digital camera can get away with out a light meter. But with film having one, and being comfortable on how to use it - is really helpful. Being able to read the value by pointing at a small area is the ideal tool for film. The cheaper models can only read as for as the arm can reach to put the sensor in that place.
@@cowboyyoga It will work for film. The old models and the new ones work for film as well. Your parameters may be slightly different than digital. There are lot of film photographers that are using a light meter and demonstrating their usages on TH-cam…😉
Joe you put the correct numbers in the software to start with but on another view (at 30:22) it is showing the reverse ie: 60th @f4.o and 7tenths for Incident and 60th @ f4.0 and 2tenths for the reflected values.
Genuine question here. I have always used light meters for film and for flash. Having moved back to film (I’m still shooting digital), I’m back to my light meters again. It seems to me that, unless it was a snowy scene with preponderance of white or a low light scene, the same could be achieved with an in-camera meter that does a scenic average, as long as you’re using a dSLR or mirror less camera. I’m sure this seems like a stoopid question but a scenic average should take all these variables into account and preserve as much information as possible. I should add that this question isn’t an indicator of how I intend to do it. I use a light meter and that’s the way I operate.
Cameras have gotten very good at measuring evenly lit scenes with flat light, and differnt matrix and weighted metering modes to handle high contrast scenes well also. But cameras cannot take incident light measurement of scene. Its really up to personal preference and what works best to get proper exposures.
a great video, a question, does this work for film too, as this would be fantastic, then you could program in the glare point, and how sensitive the film is, so you know if you have the shot, or have to wait for the light. An idea that could go to SeKonic themselves, so instead of having digital or flash meters, how about one specifically designed for medium and large format film, with this film profiling, included (a database inside the meter, or update with software) a great tool, even for beginners to the format, so EVERY film is used right, no wasters due to mis exposing, Glare, etc. esp. poignant in todays prices for film stocks.
This would not be possible for film unless the processing and printing process had 0 change, we recommend simply using the meter as factory calibrated.
In the UK please contact Vitec for Sekonic support. Vitec Imaging Distribution UK Resolution Road, Ashby-de-la-Zouch, Leicestershire, LE65 1DW United Kingdom Phone: +44 (0)1530 566091 E-mail: imaging.uk@vitecgroup.com Website: www.manfrotto.com/uk-en/sekonic/
@@SekonicGlobal Why doesn't this response from SEKONIC surprise me? I am in the United States and the L858D responded with the DTS Software without any issues. I have loaded my NIKON d850 Profile without any problems. It's a question on how you mount the device. The SEKONIC USA people are simply too incompetent to help you...
Hi I recently bought a Sekonic L-558 Cine and it doesn't metter where I point the spot meter or any change I do at ISO ou T value, it always give "E.u" F value, or if change to T always giver "E.u" fot T. Even by keeping the measure button hold and moving the sekonic, allways the value is "E.u". (The delector dial is turned to spot meter). Is there any CF settings other thing I need to set to make it works or the spot meter is deffective? Thanks.
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks for your reply, I just got to solve it and if anybody else need this solution I've made a video showing how to fix it at: th-cam.com/video/PLEI19IpB8w/w-d-xo.html
I have just checked with my supplier. This model was discontinued by Sekonic at the beginning of this year and replaced with a touch screen version. The down side, unfortunately the new model requires accessories to be purchased in order to compete with its predecessor. Looks like I'll have to review my original plan on purchasing a Sekonik unit and look at what is offered by the other manufacturers.
can i use the spyder color checker instead of x-rite color checker in making custom exposure profile for my pentax camera? If so, which patch of the spyder color checker will I use as my target reference?
Please email us at support@sekonic.com. We can send you a user guide with all the compatible color checkers and an instruction manual. It also available on our website under the DTS software link on 478 and L-858 product pages.
I bought the L-758D some days ago and did the calibration for my Nikon D4 yesterday. In the video it is shown how to do the fine tuning for the dynamic and clipping points but it is only shown for the incident mode. Is it also necessary to do this fine tuning for the spot mode? In other case the markers switch to default when I change to spot measuring on the Seconic.
We hear you, Matt. Our L308x is still a not touchscreen meter. We definitely understand the benefit of buttons in many use cases, but we are currently focused on the touch screens as the best way to incorporate all the features these meters have.
Better late than never ;) You use the incident and reflected values as your camera exposure on Manual. Then in the camera you manually set for 3 stops over that nominal , then 3 stops under. So if your exposure meter says f8 @ 1/500, set the camera on manual to f8 1/500 and take the "0" shot. Then to take a shot at 3 stops over set the camera to f8 @ 1/60, then 3 stops under would be f8 @ 1/4000. Remember to set ISO to fixed and turn off any exposure compensation including any DRO (dynamic range optimizer) functions.
The default profile (1 - 10) in the meter or the new one? Because the reading of F&T is different in each profile. Thanks I have one question. I created exposure profile for my Nikon D850 camera, and transferred it to my L-858D-U light meter by using DTS. And the profile in the meter changed to this new one. Now I want to create other profiles to my other camera and lenses. So which exposure profile I have to use for this? Hello,
Thank you for your reply. Now I have created the other lenses and camera's profile using the default profile of the L-858D-U light meter. Profile graphics in ambient mode are excellent. But I wanted to create a profile using my 2 studio flashes (Strobes). However, in the flash light source, the profile graphic is not the same as the ambient mode. The top of the graph is disconnected from the others, so the continuity of the curve is not ensured. I have repeated it using multiple ISOs, but the result has not changed. Is this normal? Or what's wrong? Thank You. Naser Shahin Columbia / MD USA
Im not sure I understand the problem. I do no that if you are making a profile with strobe and the power output is not consistent then you could have problems. A profile made using continuous light should still be accurate when using strobes.
Thank you for your answering my question. If the ambient light source profile also applies to flashes, this would be good news. Because I have tried many times with strobes and Nikon Speedlights, with or without using soft boxes, but the result was the same and the curve was not smooth. All my equipment is new and the light of the strobes is constant, steady. But I couldn't find the problem. Regards Naser Shahin MD/USA
For my incident measurement using ISO 100, F8, the meter says the shutter speed is 1/10 3. How do I input the 1/10 shutter speed when creating my profile?
If you are in Aperture priority mode then you shutter speed with change based upon the light. If you go to shutter priority mode then you can it will not change, but your aperture will. The only other option is to adjust the light levels.
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks for the reply. I have still not been able to set up my camera profile. With the light meter, I am doing shutter priority. At ISO 100 and shutter 1/30, I get the incident reading of f2.8 +1/10 and reflected reading of f3.2 +1/10. The problem I have occurs when trying to input in the DTS software. I am able to input the ISO, shutter and incident readings just fine, however, the reflected reading of f3.2 +1/10 is where I have the problem since f3.2 is not one of the available options in the aperture drop list (full stops) and unfortunately, I have not been able to find any literature on converting this tenths reading to one that is available in the full stop aperture drop list in the software. Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated. Also, I figure when taking the exposures to be imported in the DTS software, this should be done without filters installed...I noticed there is a filter compensation setting as well, can you touch on that as well. Thanks a million.
The best way to shoot your test images for profile creation is to shoot indoors with artificial light. The most important thing is to make sure that the target is evenly lit; an umbrella or softbox is helpful. Adjust the lights so that your “normal” exposure data will have full f/stop values like f/8, 1/60. Do not use values like f/8.2, or f/8.6. From a full stop, it is very simple to go +3 stops to f/22, and down to f/2.8 or up to 1/500, and down to 1/8. Enter your actual reflected readings on the reflected side. The profile that you create will be good for both ambient and flash photography. Use only small JPEGs, no raw files or conversions. The meter has to be set for 1/10 stop increments (full stops). Once the profile is made and in use, you may use full, half or third stop settings. The profile only determines two things. One is if there is any difference in the meter's reading and what is considered a "correct" exposure for a particular camera. The other is how much over/under exposure the camera can tolerate. This is usually 5 to 6 stops overall, even though manufacturers will claim a wider range. Those numbers are driven more by marketing people than photographers. If you are using the Color Checker Passport, make sure the gray patches are on the bottom.
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks again for your response. I think I may be doing something wrong. I did use artificial light and for my incident readings (ISO 100 - ISO 51200) all were full stops, however, my reflected readings are not full stops (i wonder if there may be something wrong with my meter). Just to give you a few examples: ISO 100 => Incident f2.8 +1/10 Reflected: f3.2 +1/10 ISO 200=> Incident f4.0 +1/10 Reflected f4.5 +2/10 ISO 800=> Incident = f8.0 +2/10 Reflected = f9.0 +0/10 so as you can see from these few examples, the incident are full stop reading while the reflected are not, hence my issue since I have not figured out how to convert these reflected readings to full stops so I can input in the DTS software :(
It's OK to enter the actual readings on the reflected side. An incident reading and a reflected reading from a gray card will rarely agree; there are too many variables present.
Yes, but the reading is going off the exposure reading the camera is offering you. The point of camera profiling w the seckonic is two fold. One, to set parameters for exact under/over exposure for you specific camera, and two, and to use the semi i’m in conference at the seckonic to expose to those limits. In practice , you can do well without a light meter but the difference btwn an exact reading using the seckonic and a general reading using the camera’s meter is not small. It gets more dramatic depending on the size of the metering area. That is, a 1.5% sized meter circle will give you a vastly different result than a 1% meter circle…. And even bigger difference with larger circles. You can test this yourself- set your exposure using the “partial” exposure mode, aim at the same spot, and exposure using the spot meter mode. Two totally different exposures. The seckonic meter circle is 1%. Most DSLRs spot meter is around 2.5- 5%.
Funny you asked this… I had the same thoughts and tried it. Setting the exposure profile is dependent on using images produced by the camera. So I used my Nikon film camera to take images, developed, scanned, and loaded them into the tool… and created a profile for it. However, while it worked in general and was okay, I found it wasn’t exact. Thinking through it, I realized no two rolls of film result in the same characteristics. Additionally, the development process for the film also differs every time. As a result, no way to get exactly the same repeatable result with film. So, while I don’t use the profile I created anymore, I still use my seckonic when metering for exposure. (The one in camera works, but it’s got a “center metering circles” that’s about 35% of the frame… (it’s from 1978)…. The seckonic meter is much smaller.
spot on presentation. 1 note / error on this video fellow user - During Camera profiling, Joe added the camera profile to Camera 2. However, during the presentation, he's using camera 3. This is really not a big deal since the steps he's presented are accurate in every way. Just remember to before you start using your meter to measure, adjust the Sekonic to the correct camera profile you just loaded in. :) Awesome work, Joe, as usual
@@MrTanker10a - glad to hear its worked well for you, too. These were great tutorials …as well as the ones for color profiling series. I enjoyed them and used them a lot initially. Much success in your photography, partner.
@@mikewinburn Absolutely! 😄 In fact I am currently adding more Profiles to my L-858D. That model has a clear advantage over the previous one…More Profile Slots…😉😎
If one had the choice, and price differential not prime consideration, would you purchase the Sekonic 758 or the 478? The 758 has a 1 degree spot built in, and the 478 has a 5 degree spot that has to be bought as an accessory for over $100.
I bought the 478 and the 5 degree accessory. It does a very good job but it is cumbersome to switch between the two modes (incident & reflective) in the field. I kinda regret now that I did not buy the 758... Oh well, too bad! :-)
I have been calibrating the 758DR by taking an ambient reading of say f/4.0.7 and setting my Canon to f/5.0 when capturing the middle exposure of the target. Another words I take meter readings of f/4.0 (whole stop) & 7/10th (10th stop). On my Canon camera set only in 1/3rd stop settings I set it at f/4.0 + 2/3 stops = f/5.0. Is setting the camera at f/5.0 correct?
there is some variation in the light between taking the spot metering of the card outside and taking the bracket of 3 exposures by the camera. outside light is so inconsistent that the difference in lighting may throw all your method out of wack. I can see your method for indoors CONSTANT light, but outside is a totally different beast.
Great Video. I couldn't get the 758 as it's not available except maybe on eBay, so I got the L-858-du. I like it but buttons and dials are nice and quicker. I'd love to see a similar video to this with the 858d
I used the X-Rite Color Checker Classic as the target. It turns out that the DTS software can't recognize if you happen to have the target upside down (i.e. rotated 180°), so you have to make sure to get that right before you import the files into DTS.
It seems like I could set and store similar settings for different film stocks, like one for Velvia 50 and one for Portra 400 etc. Will that work in the same way as long as I have proper scans from the test shots of my color checker?
My Color Checker Passport is 10 years old. I have rearly used it. Most of the time it has been in its sales package. Manufacturer gives only 1 year warranty. Do you think my Color Checker Passport is still trustworthy. How often do you buy a new Color Checker Passport ?
Can you do the same mid tone adjustment on the Sekonic LiteMaster Pro L-478DR-U to average out all the stored settings especially during studio photoshoot? 23:36
I know this is an older video but I just ran into a problem with my new Sony A7RIV. After I select the images 0>-3>+3, then next, it says "set point doesn't exist in the image. Change the level to one that exists in the image in order to calculate" I double checked and here are my 3 exposures at ISO 100 0 = f8 @ 1/500 -3 = f8 @ 1/60 +3 = f8 @ 1/4000 What is it complaining about? It shows the graph but will not allow me to change the DR or clip points.
Thank you for reaching out! This would be a perfect question for our experienced team, please send your inquiry to support@sekonic.com and our team of experienced professionals will be able to help!
Hi I've just purchased a L758-d. I've tried to measure the dynamic range using mid, highlight, darks. I've taken and stored each reading. Unfortunately I don't see the four zones. The meter only show the three readings but the mid point seems to be flashing quickly. Can you advise if I've missed something.
Hello, sir greetings I have a question for you I would like to know if the SeKonic L758c works in step of third or if it can be programmed so that functions in this mode thank you very much
leah fajardo - yes, it works in steps of thirds.... go to custom function 3, then select option 2 (I thinks it's 2... just check the manual, it might be option 3 instead... it does full stops 1/3 stops and 1/2 stops)
Having a devil of a time trying to find the source of my error in creating a profile for my Pentax K3 Monochrome. Maybe someone can answer? When I import the photos to generate the tone curve for the DTS software, the resulting curve looks OK for the negative EV range. The toe of the curve starts out asymptotic, then rises, rises more sharply, then fairly linear through the mid-range, but where it should flatten out at the shoulder of the curve and become more asymptotic for the brighter EV's, it just remains almost linear to 250 brightness (255?) and then flat. The curve doesn't have a shoulder. It hits the top of the graph and then continues horizontal to the right. If I could grab the curve and drag the entire thing straight down about a stop, then it would look right. I've checked that ISO on camera and meter match. I've captured the incident/reflective readings off the target. One last variable that has puzzled me is the placement of the "plus sign" (+) corner markers on the test images. The Datacolor and Sekonic Target II have markers printed on the target. You just drag the DTS markers to sit over the ones captured in the image. I only have the Sekonic Target I, the one with a white stripe at the top, a black stripe at the bottom, and 7 light-to-dark gray patches in the middle. There are NO corner markers to match up with the software. I hope my description of the curve - normal toe of curve, flat shoulder of curve - suggests something to someone. Much obliged for any ideas.
At about 18:40 on the video you take an incident reading with the meter set to [T] 125 F16 but when the meter is set to the SPOT option the reading/s are taken in the [F] mode. Is this the correct way to go please? Although I don't expect Joe or Sekonic to reply as there does seem to be a lack of interest once Sekonic videos are put out here. Thank You. Russ
If you are measuring Incident with T (Priority); then you should with T(Priority) measuring Spot because the device is measuring with two different sensors...If you interchange the Priorities you are going to get different results...
Is there any reason not to calibrate your meter in studio? Im wondering why he went back outside to take the photos of the picture card? Do you need to calibrate it differently for studio and outdoors?
I tried this twice today after getting my new L-858-du but the program won't let me enter the fstops used or the shutter speeds used that the light meter suggested. f2.8 at 1/20th of a second iso 64. It only allows 1/30 or 1/15th of a second shutter speeds. I am so frustrated. I used available indoor lighting, the xrite color checker passport and my Nikon D850. I was so looking forward to working with this meter but now I'm just bummed. It seems like I have to just luck out and get both a shutter speed and an f stop that the software accepts hitting my target in order to profile it. It looked so easy. :-(
You can, but this assumes nothing changes in your process from film type, lens, capture and development. We would recommend simply using your meter in its factory state.
Yes, that's right, I don't change the camera, the lens, the film, the development technique. I try to work with the zone system, so everything must be constant. This is exactly why I want the light meter to be calibrated to the film range. But the film is black and white and I don't know if I upload black and white scanned photos to the software, will the passport be recognized?
We have not done test with black and white film better to shoot a test roll and simply see that your meter agreeing is agreeing with your film process.
I have the same meter and calibrating it to my canon 5d mk ii. When I try to take the 3 shots, the exposure compensation meter keeps moving. This will likely give me inaccurate aperture readings. Any suggestions on how to overcome this? I am shooting in manual mode. Thank in advance.
Hello, I have one question. I created exposure profile for my Nikon D850 camera, and transferred it to my L-858D-U light meter by using DTS. And the profile in the meter changed to this new one. Now I want to create other profiles to my other camera and lenses. So which exposure profile I have to use for this? The default profile (1 - 10) in the meter or the new one? Because the reading of F&T is different in each profile. Thanks
I have this light meter but i am not cinematographer but rather a photographer. My question is when using nd filters how do i set the meter in order to mesure the light? Thanks
Surely the same as taking a normal metering value either with camera meter or light meter. Considering you're only going to be using ND for landscape, take an initial non filter exposure value and manually set the camera to the ND filter exposure value. 1/60th = 6stop 1sec 10stop 15sec.
what happens if I use a polarize with a filter factor of 2.3 to 2.8 and I calibrated the meter with a skylight filter? Wouldn't I be better off just using a gray card?
Just set the meter to dial in the necessary amount of exposure compensation to compensate for the polarizer. But stacking a polarizer onto a skylight filter can lead to other issues, such as image degradation. TBH, there's really no need for a skylight filter.
ofc u can, but you won't know if your camera can captures all the details in highs and lows, and u won't know the ration between them; u will just place that grey tree trunk in zone 5
i HAVE 758Dr . for the last 3 days i m trying to calibrate it and failed. my camera is on 1/2 or 1/3 but sekonic needs 1/10 stop increments. So how to manage this ? Please help.
^^ this. Use the spot meter in your camera to measure the highlights, then the shadows, and set your exposure at the midpoint. If you're not going to bracket, that will capture as much of the scene as possible using a single exposure. Without all the time wasting.
+Martin Wills The L-478-DR has an optional spotmeter. You have to buy it separately. From this application, the built-in spotmeter of the 758 is better (easier to use): it has a smaller field of view and you switch to it turning the ring of the viewfinder. For the 478, you have to install it before. The 758 spotmeter is 1° and the optional smeer hee 478 is 5°.
Yeah! You've missed the G.D. Point. Any idiot with a simple iPhone camera can do an HDR. Therefore, Why are you here watching given your attitude. You shouldn't be watching this profile set-up since you know so much about HDR...
F/4.0 to F/4.5 is one third of a stop. F/4.02 to F/4.05 is pretty much nothing for all intents and purposes. Or am I not understanding the display of the light meter correctly?
+andrewford80 -- The display is a bit different. When it reads "4.0 2" and "4.0 5" it's actually showing "f/4.0 plus 2/10ths" (not f/4.02) and "f/4.0 plus 5/10ths" (not f/4.05). The first set of numbers will always be the familiar whole stops, i.e. "2.0," "2.8," "4.0," "5.6," "8.0," etc. and you mentally add the fractional stop following.
+andrewford80 -- You're welcome, but unfortunately I was in need of sleep when I posted. I have edited my post to correct my errors...the missing words "not."
why not put in zebra at(100%) on your camera and go as high as you can before clipping? In 99% of the cases this works fine and lot faster than mesuring
True! Back in 2016 mirrorless cameras were starting to take off. With today's tech on mirrorless cameras you can get same results on camera without wasting your time and money! It's ok for flash photography, but for landscape photography it just doesn't makes sense, unless your stuck with a DSLR from the last decade.
Don't get it. Why can one not just use the camera histogram to determine whether sufficient dynamic range is available from the camera, and to fine tune exposure if it is?
+pict685 The histogram is not raw data. It displays the data from the in camera processed thumnail (jpeg), this is one of the reasons. A second reason is that you get an histogram AFTER gettting the picture.
+Jean-Luc Coulon doesnt matter, you can bracket your shots and do it 10X faster than using the damn light meter. only reason i own this sekonic is for FLASH studio metering spot
+Theoria Apophasis Yes, I can. And I can go back home with 10 x the number of pictures I need. And get 10x the time to sort them out. etc. Well I do like to know what I do. I use the meter mostly as a flashmeter. Anyway, I dont want to convince anybody to use or not to use a device. Everybody can get the informations and then do his own choices.
Some people still shoot film, so histogram is not an option. Also, using a spot meter allows you to analyse a scene in detail and assess what is most important and how you want to capture it. Rather than just bracketing the shit out of a scene, you can look at your readings and take a shot for the shadows, a shot for the highlights and knowing the range of your camera sensor, or film, you can ensure there is enough overlap in your exposures to get the result you want. There is no doubt that this takes longer. But for me, being forced to slow down and take my time, considering my options results in more keepers.
That’s what I don’t understand. Fixing something in post makes sense - but processing a FILM image in post is just - what’s the point? Might as well just go and shoot digital in RAW and tinker with it til your hands fall off.
Yeah that is a big oversight especially since he uses it right after using reflective spot metering for his perfect exposure. Also depending on the digital camera the ISO might not be true. Canon native is about 160 I believe. So if you don't overexpose by a third stop at 100 it will be a little off on your base reading. Sekonic should correct this video.
can you use the new 858 model for the same feature. I have several bodies and 3 camera limitation is not good. Will sell my brand new 758 and get the new 858....
Why waste time calibrating and measuring, just take a shot and look at it. if your don't like it do a exposure compensation and shot again. I believe exposure meter are good for multiple flash photography where you can measure individual flash. just ask yourself how much exposure can it differ from you liking. 1/3,1 or 2 stop. just adjust it and shoot again.
You spend a ton of time meticulously calibrating your equipment for accuracy. Then you take your photo and torture the hell out of it in Lightroom because it was a cloudy day and the image wasn't very interesting. You'd be better off waiting for good weather/lighting and skipping all of this setup.
Many times you have a one day shoot and thats all you get, you have to make it happen. The next day you are in a different country. Not always time to wait.
All that to have to use time editing anyway! Just get your cam And shoot! All those gadgets are for rookies. What was pros doing before all this tech stuff. Cam, lightroom, photoshop then forget about Boom, Pang, Pow! lol...
1: If you use the raw-format (which is highly advisable if you want to make proper photographs in whatever situation), you will always have to do some editing and optimization. Only if you shoot in jpg and then literally forget about whatever comes after, a-la social media photo spam, then you will not have to spend time on editing/optimization (or in the older terms: spending time in the doka). 2: 'just get your cam and shoot'. What will you use to make sure you don't have a completely over- or underexposed image? Oh, that's right, you use a light meter. Either a hand-held device like the L758DR or your camera's built-in meter, both are light meters which are essential for proper exposure. Only way you don't have to use your light meter(s) is by making a photo, checking the lighting, adjusting, making another photo, checking the lighting, and so forth. Maybe you'll get lucky and get it right in an early try, but there's a fat chance you'll spend ages trying to find that exact combination you need for that shot you want. With a high amount of experience you might be able to wing it in the average situation you face a lot, but that requires A: lots and lots of experience and B: similar situations. Using a light meter (either the camera's meter or an external one) allows you to find out what's required to make the photo you need / want. The photographer in the video shows where an external light meter can allow you to quickly adjust your camera to the desired settings, without wasting time by fiddling around and trying to compensate for all the various factors. With digital cameras you can make photo after photo and adjust as needed, but it's a very time consuming process either way. And with an analog camera? Good luck with that, since you're working with film, which doesn't exactly show up on a monitor .2s after making the photo. And as for your statement about 'what the professionals were using before all this tech stuff'? They simply used older versions, like analog light meters. diyphotographystuff.info/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/light_meter-2.JPG
UNIVERSAL PRODUCTIONS, LLC you missed the entire point/ done the way you suggest you could not have been able to get enough data to recover the highlight.
@@SekonicGlobal always i shoot wildlife .. you arent in controll of where deer turn up . its usually backlit and in an awkward position , plus using a d850 allows me to get away with editing ( basic in camera stuff only ) the sekonic L758-D has proved itself the perfect tool ,
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The ability to see the how meter readings compare to the dynamic range of the my camera is worth the price. I've been using an L-358 for many years and I didn't buy the L-757. But, I've been working with my new L-858 for a few days and am heading out on a tour of the southwestern U.S. This is a really instructive video Joe...thanks.
Thank you Rick.
Joe,
One of the better tutorials on the L-758DR. Thanks for this tool.
Is there any reason as to why the SEKONIC people have not created a new production to explain the L-858d lightmeter since Joe Brady?
WOW! I want to buy a light meter but with so many on the market I was really bewildered which one to buy. After watching this video I have decided.
Stumbled onto one of your videos yesterday on using a light meter. Been shooting many years, mostly ambient light, and did use a Sekonic Studio Deluxe II especially with my 5x7 and much beloved Fujica 645 . Gave up using meters when I bought my first digital, a Fuji, followed by Sony Mavica then a few iterations of Canon Rebels. Needed to begin work with video and bought a GH4 last year. I have truly struggled with getting proper lighting and I can't even remember what video of yours I saw first, but I have watched maybe 10 hours of your webinars. I have learned more of value in less than a day than in any given year of my 4 decades of photography. I put my old meter up for sale and ordered the Sekonic 478DR last night. Oh yeah, just remembered that it was your Bakery ad shoot I saw first! I have to say that this past year I've watched a lot of Tony and Chelsea Northrup, Curtis Judd and The Basic Filmaker and am grateful to them as well, BUT you have given mean unbounded sense of hope and I can't wait for Saturday's delivery. Thanks again!
same boat. Thought I could do life without a meter, but not having the light information is really holding me back. Honestly TTL is a crutch, and even with spot metering can do only do so much. I even read even the global {what comes with it settings} are prefect so I may not need to do this whole computer programming stuff, just tweak the meter lighting a little.
The tool explanation is 10 out of 10. Post processing through.....
I've bought 858R for landscape medium format fotography
I purchased a new L-758DR. It will be delivered next week.
I am preparing by watching your videos.
Great stuff !
In this video at 22:20 you measure a mid-tone, brights and darks.
You enter these in the meters memory.
Then you move the mid-tone up to make sure
the measured tonal range fits into the tonal range
of your camera.
But what if the measured tonale range is larger than
the the tonal range of your camera.
So bracketing is needed.
How would you proceed ?
How can the L-758DR be used to do that ?
Best turtorial so far on the Sekonic light meter. I am trying to follow step by step but I have a challenge since I am using the L858 model. At 19:56 time stamp...how would I manually move my midtone since the L858 model doesnˋt have the physical mode and midtone buttons? I would love to see this exact tutorial updatde using the l858 model. Thanks in advance.
IF you select the tool icon you can select your mid tone. You will need to create an exposure profile to see the over and over boundaries. You can move you mid tone once set by changing the ISO or shutter shutter speed.
Beautiful Joe..
I still use my L-478dr, a bit of a pain to change to my 5 degree but it all works out in the end.
I have to upgrade, I know.
Have a great day. Stay safe
WOW , thought I know the 758, didnt know that I can move the MID GRAY Value afterwards (I just calculated this always in mind)...
We did DTS the Sony FS7 in Log Mode too, but its a bit tricky since Sony Log is "unbalanced" (+6 up, -8 down, mid gray is not in the middle), but eve this can be done.
Thanks for the great video.
Uli
Very interesting information.
I wonder if you can create an exposure profile for a specific film, say fuji valve 50 and if it would be of any use.
I am trying to understand if such a comprehensive light meter would have any real use in film photography or if I would be better with a simpler model.
A good digital camera can get away with out a light meter. But with film having one, and being comfortable on how to use it - is really helpful. Being able to read the value by pointing at a small area is the ideal tool for film. The cheaper models can only read as for as the arm can reach to put the sensor in that place.
@@cowboyyoga It will work for film. The old models and the new ones work for film as well. Your parameters may be slightly different than digital. There are lot of film photographers that are using a light meter and demonstrating their usages on TH-cam…😉
Joe you put the correct numbers in the software to start with but on another view (at 30:22) it is showing the reverse ie: 60th @f4.o and 7tenths for Incident and 60th @ f4.0 and 2tenths for the reflected values.
Genuine question here.
I have always used light meters for film and for flash. Having moved back to film (I’m still shooting digital), I’m back to my light meters again. It seems to me that, unless it was a snowy scene with preponderance of white or a low light scene, the same could be achieved with an in-camera meter that does a scenic average, as long as you’re using a dSLR or mirror less camera.
I’m sure this seems like a stoopid question but a scenic average should take all these variables into account and preserve as much information as possible.
I should add that this question isn’t an indicator of how I intend to do it. I use a light meter and that’s the way I operate.
Cameras have gotten very good at measuring evenly lit scenes with flat light, and differnt matrix and weighted metering modes to handle high contrast scenes well also. But cameras cannot take incident light measurement of scene. Its really up to personal preference and what works best to get proper exposures.
@@SekonicGlobal Thank you.
Great video Joe! Extremely informative indeed and hope you had a nice cuppa tea (or coffee) after coming in from the cold 🥶😂
Thank you.
Hi Joe thanks for your video, I'd like to know if that's the same process on my l758C cine ..Thank you :)
In photo mode they function the same.
a great video, a question, does this work for film too, as this would be fantastic, then you could program in the glare point, and how sensitive the film is, so you know if you have the shot, or have to wait for the light. An idea that could go to SeKonic themselves, so instead of having digital or flash meters, how about one specifically designed for medium and large format film, with this film profiling, included (a database inside the meter, or update with software) a great tool, even for beginners to the format, so EVERY film is used right, no wasters due to mis exposing, Glare, etc. esp. poignant in todays prices for film stocks.
This would not be possible for film unless the processing and printing process had 0 change, we recommend simply using the meter as factory calibrated.
Hi Joe, sorry I meant the Sekonic DTS - it cannot see my L858D. Any ideas? Tried reinstalling from scratch etc
In the UK please contact Vitec for Sekonic support.
Vitec Imaging Distribution UK
Resolution Road, Ashby-de-la-Zouch,
Leicestershire, LE65 1DW
United Kingdom
Phone: +44 (0)1530 566091
E-mail: imaging.uk@vitecgroup.com
Website: www.manfrotto.com/uk-en/sekonic/
@@SekonicGlobal Why doesn't this response from SEKONIC surprise me? I am in the United States and the L858D responded with the DTS Software without any issues. I have loaded my NIKON d850 Profile without any problems. It's a question on how you mount the device. The SEKONIC USA people are simply too incompetent to help you...
Hi Joe! I have a l-758dr and i wonder if you can factory reset the meter whithout a softwere?
Hi I recently bought a Sekonic L-558 Cine and it doesn't metter where I point the spot meter or any change I do at ISO ou T value, it always give "E.u" F value, or if change to T always giver "E.u" fot T. Even by keeping the measure button hold and moving the sekonic, allways the value is "E.u". (The delector dial is turned to spot meter). Is there any CF settings other thing I need to set to make it works or the spot meter is deffective? Thanks.
Great question! Please reach out to our experienced team at support@sekonic.com and they'll be able to help you!
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks for your reply, I just got to solve it and if anybody else need this solution I've made a video showing how to fix it at: th-cam.com/video/PLEI19IpB8w/w-d-xo.html
I have just checked with my supplier. This model was discontinued by Sekonic at the beginning of this year and replaced with a touch screen version. The down side, unfortunately the new model requires accessories to be purchased in order to compete with its predecessor. Looks like I'll have to review my original plan on purchasing a Sekonik unit and look at what is offered by the other manufacturers.
use your histogram in camera thats all you need
can i use the spyder color checker instead of x-rite color checker in making custom exposure profile for my pentax camera? If so, which patch of the spyder color checker will I use as my target reference?
Please email us at support@sekonic.com. We can send you a user guide with all the compatible color checkers and an instruction manual. It also available on our website under the DTS software link on 478 and L-858 product pages.
You are THE BEST!
I bought the L-758D some days ago and did the calibration for my Nikon D4 yesterday. In the video it is shown how to do the fine tuning for the dynamic and clipping points but it is only shown for the incident mode. Is it also necessary to do this fine tuning for the spot mode? In other case the markers switch to default when I change to spot measuring on the Seconic.
Sekonic should bring these back. The old school electronics design makes a better product than the new touch screen design imo
We hear you, Matt. Our L308x is still a not touchscreen meter. We definitely understand the benefit of buttons in many use cases, but we are currently focused on the touch screens as the best way to incorporate all the features these meters have.
Thank you for a very enlightening video. To be clear, the 3 bracketed exposures are made with the incident reading or the spot reading?
Better late than never ;) You use the incident and reflected values as your camera exposure on Manual. Then in the camera you manually set for 3 stops over that nominal , then 3 stops under.
So if your exposure meter says f8 @ 1/500, set the camera on manual to f8 1/500 and take the "0" shot. Then to take a shot at 3 stops over set the camera to f8 @ 1/60, then 3 stops under would be f8 @ 1/4000. Remember to set ISO to fixed and turn off any exposure compensation including any DRO (dynamic range optimizer) functions.
Great video Joe, now I have not photographed landscape but WOW those images are awesome.
The default profile (1 - 10) in the meter or the new one? Because
the reading of F&T is different in each profile. Thanks
I have one question. I created exposure profile for my Nikon
D850 camera, and transferred it to my L-858D-U light meter by using DTS. And the
profile in the meter changed to this new one. Now I want to create other
profiles to my other camera and lenses. So which exposure profile I have to use
for this?
Hello,
You should go back to the meters default profile and start from there.
Thank you for your reply. Now I have created the other lenses and camera's profile using the default profile of the L-858D-U light meter. Profile graphics in ambient mode are excellent. But I wanted to create a profile using my 2 studio flashes (Strobes). However, in the flash light source, the profile graphic is not the same as the ambient mode. The top of the graph is disconnected from the others, so the continuity of the curve is not ensured. I have repeated it using multiple ISOs, but the result has not changed.
Is this normal? Or what's wrong?
Thank You.
Naser Shahin
Columbia / MD
USA
Im not sure I understand the problem. I do no that if you are making a profile with strobe and the power output is not consistent then you could have problems. A profile made using continuous light should still be accurate when using strobes.
Thank you for your answering my question. If the ambient light source profile also applies to flashes, this would be good news. Because I have tried many times with strobes and Nikon Speedlights, with or without using soft boxes, but the result was the same and the curve was not smooth. All my equipment is new and the light of the strobes is constant, steady. But I couldn't find the problem.
Regards
Naser Shahin
MD/USA
Yes the ambient profile does apply to flash.
For my incident measurement using ISO 100, F8, the meter says the shutter speed is 1/10 3. How do I input the 1/10 shutter speed when creating my profile?
If you are in Aperture priority mode then you shutter speed with change based upon the light. If you go to shutter priority mode then you can it will not change, but your aperture will. The only other option is to adjust the light levels.
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks for the reply. I have still not been able to set up my camera profile. With the light meter, I am doing shutter priority. At ISO 100 and shutter 1/30, I get the incident reading of f2.8 +1/10 and reflected reading of f3.2 +1/10. The problem I have occurs when trying to input in the DTS software. I am able to input the ISO, shutter and incident readings just fine, however, the reflected reading of f3.2 +1/10 is where I have the problem since f3.2 is not one of the available options in the aperture drop list (full stops) and unfortunately, I have not been able to find any literature on converting this tenths reading to one that is available in the full stop aperture drop list in the software. Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated. Also, I figure when taking the exposures to be imported in the DTS software, this should be done without filters installed...I noticed there is a filter compensation setting as well, can you touch on that as well. Thanks a million.
The best way to shoot your test images for profile creation is to shoot indoors with artificial light. The most important thing is to make sure that the target is evenly lit; an umbrella or softbox is helpful. Adjust the lights so that your “normal” exposure data will have full f/stop values like f/8, 1/60. Do not use values like f/8.2, or f/8.6. From a full stop, it is very simple to go +3 stops to f/22, and down to f/2.8 or up to 1/500, and down to 1/8. Enter your actual reflected readings on the reflected side. The profile that you create will be good for both ambient and flash photography. Use only small JPEGs, no raw files or conversions. The meter has to be set for 1/10 stop increments (full stops). Once the profile is made and in use, you may use full, half or third stop settings. The profile only determines two things. One is if there is any difference in the meter's reading and what is considered a "correct" exposure for a particular camera. The other is how much over/under exposure the camera can tolerate. This is usually 5 to 6 stops overall, even though manufacturers will claim a wider range. Those numbers are driven more by marketing people than photographers.
If you are using the Color Checker Passport, make sure the gray patches are on the bottom.
@@SekonicGlobal Thanks again for your response. I think I may be doing something wrong. I did use artificial light and for my incident readings (ISO 100 - ISO 51200) all were full stops, however, my reflected readings are not full stops (i wonder if there may be something wrong with my meter). Just to give you a few examples: ISO 100 => Incident f2.8 +1/10 Reflected: f3.2 +1/10 ISO 200=> Incident f4.0 +1/10 Reflected f4.5 +2/10 ISO 800=> Incident = f8.0 +2/10 Reflected = f9.0 +0/10 so as you can see from these few examples, the incident are full stop reading while the reflected are not, hence my issue since I have not figured out how to convert these reflected readings to full stops so I can input in the DTS software :(
It's OK to enter the actual readings on the reflected side. An incident reading and a reflected reading from a gray card will rarely agree; there are too many variables present.
This is really interesting and well explained, but couldn’t you just use the in-camera histogram to see if you are clipping the highlights or shadows?
i guess this was when cameras don't have zebras or histogram inside..
Yes, but the reading is going off the exposure reading the camera is offering you.
The point of camera profiling w the seckonic is two fold. One, to set parameters for exact under/over exposure for you specific camera, and two, and to use the semi i’m in conference at the seckonic to expose to those limits.
In practice , you can do well without a light meter but the difference btwn an exact reading using the seckonic and a general reading using the camera’s meter is not small.
It gets more dramatic depending on the size of the metering area.
That is, a 1.5% sized meter circle will give you a vastly different result than a 1% meter circle…. And even bigger difference with larger circles.
You can test this yourself- set your exposure using the “partial” exposure mode, aim at the same spot, and exposure using the spot meter mode. Two totally different exposures.
The seckonic meter circle is 1%.
Most DSLRs spot meter is around 2.5- 5%.
Funny you asked this… I had the same thoughts and tried it.
Setting the exposure profile is dependent on using images produced by the camera.
So I used my Nikon film camera to take images, developed, scanned, and loaded them into the tool… and created a profile for it.
However, while it worked in general and was okay, I found it wasn’t exact.
Thinking through it, I realized no two rolls of film result in the same characteristics. Additionally, the development process for the film also differs every time.
As a result, no way to get exactly the same repeatable result with film.
So, while I don’t use the profile I created anymore, I still use my seckonic when metering for exposure. (The one in camera works, but it’s got a “center metering circles” that’s about 35% of the frame… (it’s from 1978)…. The seckonic meter is much smaller.
Joe Hi - Do you have the same tutoria but for the L858D?
Hi Ivan, currently we do not have a similar tutorial for the L-858D
@@SekonicGlobal I think we need one :)
spot on presentation. 1 note / error on this video fellow user - During Camera profiling, Joe added the camera profile to Camera 2. However, during the presentation, he's using camera 3.
This is really not a big deal since the steps he's presented are accurate in every way.
Just remember to before you start using your meter to measure, adjust the Sekonic to the correct camera profile you just loaded in.
:)
Awesome work, Joe, as usual
I have followed his video instructions verbatum! No problems!
@@MrTanker10a - glad to hear its worked well for you, too.
These were great tutorials …as well as the ones for color profiling series. I enjoyed them and used them a lot initially.
Much success in your photography, partner.
@@mikewinburn Absolutely! 😄
In fact I am currently adding more Profiles to my L-858D. That model has a clear advantage over the previous one…More Profile Slots…😉😎
If one had the choice, and price differential not prime consideration, would you purchase the Sekonic 758 or the 478? The 758 has a 1 degree spot built in, and the 478 has a 5 degree spot that has to be bought as an accessory for over $100.
I bought the 478 and the 5 degree accessory. It does a very good job but it is cumbersome to switch between the two modes (incident & reflective) in the field. I kinda regret now that I did not buy the 758... Oh well, too bad! :-)
Does it make a difference what mode the light meter is in when doing 1st measure before profile, meaning the "T" & "F" aperture or shutter priority?
will you do the same example with the L-858D-U Sekonic
I have been calibrating the 758DR by taking an ambient reading of say f/4.0.7 and setting my Canon to f/5.0 when capturing the middle exposure of the target. Another words I take meter readings of f/4.0 (whole stop) & 7/10th (10th stop). On my Canon camera set only in 1/3rd stop settings I set it at f/4.0 + 2/3 stops = f/5.0. Is setting the camera at f/5.0 correct?
there is some variation in the light between taking the spot metering of the card outside and taking the bracket of 3 exposures by the camera. outside light is so inconsistent that the difference in lighting may throw all your method out of wack. I can see your method for indoors CONSTANT light, but outside is a totally different beast.
Great Video. I couldn't get the 758 as it's not available except maybe on eBay, so I got the L-858-du. I like it but buttons and dials are nice and quicker. I'd love to see a similar video to this with the 858d
Is it different between L-758DR and L-758DR-U? Can it compatible with Sekonic Exposure Profile Target II and ColorChecker Passport Photo?
Good god way over my head but still interesting and so well presented thanks ..
I used the X-Rite Color Checker Classic as the target. It turns out that the DTS software can't recognize if you happen to have the target upside down (i.e. rotated 180°), so you have to make sure to get that right before you import the files into DTS.
It seems like I could set and store similar settings for different film stocks, like one for Velvia 50 and one for Portra 400 etc. Will that work in the same way as long as I have proper scans from the test shots of my color checker?
Yes theoretically that should work, as long as the film processing is exact from roll to roll.
My Color Checker Passport is 10 years old. I have rearly used it. Most of the time it has been in its sales package. Manufacturer gives only 1 year warranty. Do you think my Color Checker Passport is still trustworthy. How often do you buy a new Color Checker Passport ?
We have asked our friends and X-Rite / Calibrate and hope to have an answer soon.
Hi Joe,
I tried profiling my camera but I got a message telling me that it could not be done with the values I set.What was I doing wrong?
Can you do the same mid tone adjustment on the Sekonic LiteMaster Pro L-478DR-U to average out all the stored settings especially during studio photoshoot? 23:36
Buying a used Olympus OM-4 as a metering tool will do just as well.
I know this is an older video but I just ran into a problem with my new Sony A7RIV.
After I select the images 0>-3>+3, then next, it says
"set point doesn't exist in the image. Change the level to one that exists in the image in order to calculate"
I double checked and here are my 3 exposures at ISO 100
0 = f8 @ 1/500
-3 = f8 @ 1/60
+3 = f8 @ 1/4000
What is it complaining about?
It shows the graph but will not allow me to change the DR or clip points.
Thank you for reaching out! This would be a perfect question for our experienced team, please send your inquiry to support@sekonic.com and our team of experienced professionals will be able to help!
Hi I've just purchased a L758-d. I've tried to measure the dynamic range using mid, highlight, darks. I've taken and stored each reading. Unfortunately I don't see the four zones. The meter only show the three readings but the mid point seems to be flashing quickly. Can you advise if I've missed something.
It will only show the 4th zone if the mew is a camera profile loaded from the days software
Hello, sir greetings I have a question for you I would like to know if the SeKonic L758c works in step of third or if it can be programmed so that functions in this mode thank you very much
leah fajardo - yes, it works in steps of thirds.... go to custom function 3, then select option 2 (I thinks it's 2... just check the manual, it might be option 3 instead... it does full stops 1/3 stops and 1/2 stops)
Having a devil of a time trying to find the source of my error in creating a profile for my Pentax K3 Monochrome. Maybe someone can answer? When I import the photos to generate the tone curve for the DTS software, the resulting curve looks OK for the negative EV range. The toe of the curve starts out asymptotic, then rises, rises more sharply, then fairly linear through the mid-range, but where it should flatten out at the shoulder of the curve and become more asymptotic for the brighter EV's, it just remains almost linear to 250 brightness (255?) and then flat. The curve doesn't have a shoulder. It hits the top of the graph and then continues horizontal to the right. If I could grab the curve and drag the entire thing straight down about a stop, then it would look right. I've checked that ISO on camera and meter match. I've captured the incident/reflective readings off the target. One last variable that has puzzled me is the placement of the "plus sign" (+) corner markers on the test images. The Datacolor and Sekonic Target II have markers printed on the target. You just drag the DTS markers to sit over the ones captured in the image. I only have the Sekonic Target I, the one with a white stripe at the top, a black stripe at the bottom, and 7 light-to-dark gray patches in the middle. There are NO corner markers to match up with the software. I hope my description of the curve - normal toe of curve, flat shoulder of curve - suggests something to someone. Much obliged for any ideas.
Please email support@sekonic.com
Nicely done Joe. Looks great and expensive.
At about 18:40 on the video you take an incident reading with the meter set to [T] 125 F16 but when the meter is set to the SPOT option the reading/s are taken in the [F] mode. Is this the correct way to go please? Although I don't expect Joe or Sekonic to reply as there does seem to be a lack of interest once Sekonic videos are put out here. Thank You. Russ
If you are measuring Incident with T (Priority); then you should with T(Priority) measuring Spot because the device is measuring with two different sensors...If you interchange the Priorities you are going to get different results...
at 6min03 sec : just wondering wether or not smaller graycards are available....
Excellent!
Excelente, compré recién uno de éstos modelos y funciona perfectamente con el perfil de cámara.
Have this been updated for the newer models?
selected profile there are any number exam> N1 , N2, N3 WHY? please help me.
Is there any reason not to calibrate your meter in studio? Im wondering why he went back outside to take the photos of the picture card? Do you need to calibrate it differently for studio and outdoors?
Good question would love to see the answer.
I tried this twice today after getting my new L-858-du but the program won't let me enter the fstops used or the shutter speeds used that the light meter suggested. f2.8 at 1/20th of a second iso 64. It only allows 1/30 or 1/15th of a second shutter speeds. I am so frustrated. I used available indoor lighting, the xrite color checker passport and my Nikon D850. I was so looking forward to working with this meter but now I'm just bummed. It seems like I have to just luck out and get both a shutter speed and an f stop that the software accepts hitting my target in order to profile it. It looked so easy. :-(
In the meters custom functions you can change it to read Full, 1/3, or 1/2 F-Stops.
hi can i calibrate the light meter for use with an analog camera and black and white film using the color checker passport?
You can, but this assumes nothing changes in your process from film type, lens, capture and development. We would recommend simply using your meter in its factory state.
Yes, that's right, I don't change the camera, the lens, the film, the development technique. I try to work with the zone system, so everything must be constant. This is exactly why I want the light meter to be calibrated to the film range. But the film is black and white and I don't know if I upload black and white scanned photos to the software, will the passport be recognized?
We have not done test with black and white film better to shoot a test roll and simply see that your meter agreeing is agreeing with your film process.
excellent, thanks
I have the same meter and calibrating it to my canon 5d mk ii. When I try to take the 3 shots, the exposure compensation meter keeps moving. This will likely give me inaccurate aperture readings. Any suggestions on how to overcome this? I am shooting in manual mode. Thank in advance.
Exposure compensation shouldn't have any effect in Manual mode. Just enter the values and shoot.
Nice video! Can anybody tell me if there's a way to calibrate L-758 for two different cameras and then switch between them when necessary? Thanks.
+Uros Kovandzic Yes i think, Joe has explained that in another video...
Great video! Thank you ! )))
You are welcome!
Hello,
I have one question. I created exposure profile for my Nikon D850 camera, and transferred it to my L-858D-U light meter by using DTS. And the profile in the meter changed to this new one. Now I want to create other profiles to my other camera and lenses. So which exposure profile I have to use for this?
The default profile (1 - 10) in the meter or the new one? Because the reading of F&T is different in each profile. Thanks
I have this light meter but i am not cinematographer but rather a photographer. My question is when using nd filters how do i set the meter in order to mesure the light? Thanks
Surely the same as taking a normal metering value either with camera meter or light meter. Considering you're only going to be using ND for landscape, take an initial non filter exposure value and manually set the camera to the ND filter exposure value. 1/60th = 6stop 1sec 10stop 15sec.
Chris Longley Thanks for the reply, however on the model that he is a using there a setting for ND filters.
what happens if I use a polarize with a filter factor of 2.3 to 2.8 and I calibrated the meter with a skylight filter? Wouldn't I be better off just using a gray card?
You'd be better off not using the skylight filter.
Just set the meter to dial in the necessary amount of exposure compensation to compensate for the polarizer. But stacking a polarizer onto a skylight filter can lead to other issues, such as image degradation. TBH, there's really no need for a skylight filter.
does the L-508 model have the same capabilities as its big brother is performing in this video...
No the 508 cannot do this.
Can this be done using Sekonic L308s?
nope!
Can't you just spot meter a tree trunk with camera meter to get pretty close to middle gray?
ofc u can, but you won't know if your camera can captures all the details in highs and lows, and u won't know the ration between them; u will just place that grey tree trunk in zone 5
i HAVE 758Dr . for the last 3 days i m trying to calibrate it and failed. my camera is on 1/2 or 1/3 but sekonic needs 1/10 stop increments. So how to manage this ? Please help.
It doesn't matter. Just choose an aperture that your camera supports the tenth stop increments are for the software only.
You made me a beliver.
EXCELLENT ! THANKS
very informative.....
Why can't you just get an incident reading of the highlights and shadows and then pick the average number?
^^ this. Use the spot meter in your camera to measure the highlights, then the shadows, and set your exposure at the midpoint. If you're not going to bracket, that will capture as much of the scene as possible using a single exposure. Without all the time wasting.
Can the L-478-DR do the same. Is there video for the L-478-DR for landscape photography.
+Martin Wills I also have an L-478 DR and was wondering the same...
+Martin Wills The L-478-DR has an optional spotmeter. You have to buy it separately.
From this application, the built-in spotmeter of the 758 is better (easier to use): it has a smaller field of view and you switch to it turning the ring of the viewfinder. For the 478, you have to install it before.
The 758 spotmeter is 1° and the optional smeer hee 478 is 5°.
Thanks Jean, I have the attachment was wondering if there was a separate video on using it.I have mostly got it now.
I have the 478D with spot meter attachment and it works fantastic
Awesome video. But by the time he was done editing (and setting up the shot) - most people would have been better off with an hdr image.
Yeah! You've missed the G.D. Point. Any idiot with a simple iPhone camera can do an HDR. Therefore, Why are you here watching given your attitude. You shouldn't be watching this profile set-up since you know so much about HDR...
"Attitude?" LOL. You are funny Mr Tanker.
99.9% of HDR images look like crap.
@@photog1529 Because most people don't know how to process them in a manner that looks natural.
F/4.0 to F/4.5 is one third of a stop. F/4.02 to F/4.05 is pretty much nothing for all intents and purposes.
Or am I not understanding the display of the light meter correctly?
+andrewford80 -- The display is a bit different. When it reads "4.0 2" and "4.0 5" it's actually showing "f/4.0 plus 2/10ths" (not f/4.02) and "f/4.0 plus 5/10ths" (not f/4.05). The first set of numbers will always be the familiar whole stops, i.e. "2.0," "2.8," "4.0," "5.6," "8.0," etc. and you mentally add the fractional stop following.
Thanks for clearing that up. Seems confusing :/
+andrewford80 -- You're welcome, but unfortunately I was in need of sleep when I posted. I have edited my post to correct my errors...the missing words "not."
Now that I own one of these, it makes more sense :)
andrewford80 Sadly, mine grew legs at a shoot last year. I hope the person who took it gets what it's worth when he sells it.
why not put in zebra at(100%) on your camera and go as high as you can before clipping? In 99% of the cases this works fine and lot faster than mesuring
True! Back in 2016 mirrorless cameras were starting to take off. With today's tech on mirrorless cameras you can get same results on camera without wasting your time and money! It's ok for flash photography, but for landscape photography it just doesn't makes sense, unless your stuck with a DSLR from the last decade.
Don't get it. Why can one not just use the camera histogram to determine whether sufficient dynamic range is available from the camera, and to fine tune exposure if it is?
+pict685 The histogram is not raw data. It displays the data from the in camera processed thumnail (jpeg), this is one of the reasons. A second reason is that you get an histogram AFTER gettting the picture.
+Jean-Luc Coulon doesnt matter, you can bracket your shots and do it 10X faster than using the damn light meter.
only reason i own this sekonic is for FLASH studio metering spot
+Theoria Apophasis Yes, I can. And I can go back home with 10 x the number of pictures I need. And get 10x the time to sort them out. etc.
Well I do like to know what I do. I use the meter mostly as a flashmeter.
Anyway, I dont want to convince anybody to use or not to use a device. Everybody can get the informations and then do his own choices.
+Jean-Luc Coulon were both on the same page
Some people still shoot film, so histogram is not an option. Also, using a spot meter allows you to analyse a scene in detail and assess what is most important and how you want to capture it. Rather than just bracketing the shit out of a scene, you can look at your readings and take a shot for the shadows, a shot for the highlights and knowing the range of your camera sensor, or film, you can ensure there is enough overlap in your exposures to get the result you want.
There is no doubt that this takes longer. But for me, being forced to slow down and take my time, considering my options results in more keepers.
yeah... but no. nice work figuring out the perfect exposure but then destroying the image in post.
That’s what I don’t understand. Fixing something in post makes sense - but processing a FILM image in post is just - what’s the point? Might as well just go and shoot digital in RAW and tinker with it til your hands fall off.
this video has an ERROR IN IT, he doesnt EDIT the REFLECTANCE in the DTS software
so he only does HALF THE JOB in this video, MISTAKE!
say what? how u do that?
MISTAKE!! lol..
Yeah that is a big oversight especially since he uses it right after using reflective spot metering for his perfect exposure. Also depending on the digital camera the ISO might not be true. Canon native is about 160 I believe. So if you don't overexpose by a third stop at 100 it will be a little off on your base reading. Sekonic should correct this video.
YES IT'S LOGIC
@@thepiecesfit5049 could you explain more??? thank you
can you use the new 858 model for the same feature. I have several bodies and 3 camera limitation is not good. Will sell my brand new 758 and get the new 858....
Yes it can but i don't see any need to sell your 758 I think it can do anything you want it to.
if you have ND filter for camera u dont need sekonic i think..
...and then the sun came out and changed all the metering values again....
AND THE SOLAR ECLIPSE CAME AND ...... HEUUU LET'S CALL IT A DAY ?
Why your videos are always long?
If you close your eyes he sounds like Frosty the Snowman.
usefull but complex technique
as a beginning photographer im like....wha???? ive no clue whats goin on :(
Don't feel bad. It's a learning process.
Why waste time calibrating and measuring, just take a shot and look at it. if your don't like it do a exposure compensation and shot again. I believe exposure meter are good for multiple flash photography where you can measure individual flash. just ask yourself how much exposure can it differ from you liking. 1/3,1 or 2 stop. just adjust it and shoot again.
Then why are you wasting your precious photography watching this lengthy video and commenting in the Remarks section? Seriously?!
You spend a ton of time meticulously calibrating your equipment for accuracy. Then you take your photo and torture the hell out of it in Lightroom because it was a cloudy day and the image wasn't very interesting. You'd be better off waiting for good weather/lighting and skipping all of this setup.
Many times you have a one day shoot and thats all you get, you have to make it happen. The next day you are in a different country. Not always time to wait.
By the time you have gone through all this metering process,111 the light conditions would have changed!
not once you have gotten used to it. it becomes second nature like anything you do enough times over.
Haven't seen one video from this channel which isn't just some bullshit sales pitch.
Thanks for the great tutorial. Horrible image editing however.
We are happy you found it useful.
All that to have to use time editing anyway! Just get your cam And shoot! All those gadgets are for rookies. What was pros doing before all this tech stuff. Cam, lightroom, photoshop then forget about Boom, Pang, Pow! lol...
1: If you use the raw-format (which is highly advisable if you want to make proper photographs in whatever situation), you will always have to do some editing and optimization. Only if you shoot in jpg and then literally forget about whatever comes after, a-la social media photo spam, then you will not have to spend time on editing/optimization (or in the older terms: spending time in the doka).
2: 'just get your cam and shoot'. What will you use to make sure you don't have a completely over- or underexposed image? Oh, that's right, you use a light meter. Either a hand-held device like the L758DR or your camera's built-in meter, both are light meters which are essential for proper exposure.
Only way you don't have to use your light meter(s) is by making a photo, checking the lighting, adjusting, making another photo, checking the lighting, and so forth. Maybe you'll get lucky and get it right in an early try, but there's a fat chance you'll spend ages trying to find that exact combination you need for that shot you want.
With a high amount of experience you might be able to wing it in the average situation you face a lot, but that requires A: lots and lots of experience and B: similar situations.
Using a light meter (either the camera's meter or an external one) allows you to find out what's required to make the photo you need / want.
The photographer in the video shows where an external light meter can allow you to quickly adjust your camera to the desired settings, without wasting time by fiddling around and trying to compensate for all the various factors.
With digital cameras you can make photo after photo and adjust as needed, but it's a very time consuming process either way. And with an analog camera? Good luck with that, since you're working with film, which doesn't exactly show up on a monitor .2s after making the photo.
And as for your statement about 'what the professionals were using before all this tech stuff'? They simply used older versions, like analog light meters. diyphotographystuff.info/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/light_meter-2.JPG
UNIVERSAL PRODUCTIONS, LLC you missed the entire point/ done the way you suggest you could not have been able to get enough data to recover the highlight.
"Pros" were using basic light meters. Ansel Adams used the Pentax Digital Spotmeter...he didn't "just get his cam and shoot".
@@photog1529 Thank you for your Reply!
no need for all that expensive metering tool just use your histogram in camera then devolop in lightroom
Disagree!
i use light meters but that editing is brain numbing stuff , god no !
Glad to hear you are using a meter.
@@SekonicGlobal always i shoot wildlife .. you arent in controll of where deer turn up . its usually backlit and in an awkward position , plus using a d850 allows me to get away with editing ( basic in camera stuff only ) the sekonic L758-D has proved itself the perfect tool ,
Thank you! Thats great to hear.
Excellent thank you