This winter I took some fig cuttings from a friends tree after watching one of your videos. Now I have four rooted cuttings happily growing in one gallon pots under grow lights. Thanks for the inspiration.
One of you better video , a lot of infromation out there about pruning, pinching fig trees.You conveyed your reasons for not to heavy prune a fruit tree as yearly event
I've been watching your videos for as long as long as you've been making them, and this may be my favorite. Thanks for putting in the work and sharing it.
I love your videos. Thank you. We're in southern Ontario in one of the zone 6s. I'd love to plant some figs outside and try to get them through a couple of winters, but we have a fence around our small yard. Do figs need a lot of sun? Thanks and thank you for your videos!
I messaged you before. I'm near Limerick and my two trees are great. This is my 6th year since planting them. They are in raised beds in the open, not near any buildings for protection. The first two years I pruned them to the ground. They grew back healthy and are about the size of the one behind you with the thick branch. I only prune the dead little branches. Last year, with the weird weather, was the best so far. Had so many figs that I was able to share with the animals without netting. I didn't get the early figs. They came later but lasted longer with more abundance. I had less wasps & hornets eating them this past year. At least we got some coldness this winter. Maybe all plants will be happier than the past couple years. My new neighbors have two bee hives, so maybe it will benefit my plants. I started Kiwis last year. They are suppose to be hardy and be able to winter. I'll see.
i have some big trees but i would sure be afraid to not protect them even after 3 years and there as big around as my arm....there lignification on them was alot better on the new growth this season then last even tho i pruned them to protect them.... great video thanks for sharing your insight and experience
SORRY, DISAGREE. It's each variety's genetic capability. So it's the VARIETY. Lignification is simply a part of that capability. All plants have hormones, but how they're deployed in reaction to the environment or stressors, is built into each variety's genetic code. In my work, I test capability in trials showing and speaking to the results. I had 5 paragraphs explaining a bunch of my thoughts, but I've already said it all in one of your other videos so I'll just say this: There is a recent video from a very popular channel that perfectly explains what I'm saying so I'll let him speak to anyone who is interested. I can imagine many have seen this video already. If not, type "fig" into YT and it'll pop up. It will be interesting to compare your development of trees/fruit compared to the other person. If I'm wrong, I WILL SAY SO. I'm not too proud or stubborn. Ross, you're great at fig history and knowledge and I do appreciate that.
I agree with the first two points you made about lignification and hormones influenced by the varieties genetics. There's no doubt about that. "In reaction to the environment or stressors." That's my point. If the environment and stressors are making proper lignification more difficult to achieve, it doesn't matter how good the genetics are.
Well done. I enjoyed it. This will be great for the cold zones fig growers . Here in Fresno California my Zaffiro and Bakor both have green swirly wood near the tips. This is even through our mild (30’s) winter. Would this be an example of not fully lignified? And have you personally seen this?
Thank you very much for another excellent video on lignification. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on growing fig trees in containers for two or three years, allowing them to lignify before planting them outside.
It can work, but I don't recommend it for the long-term structure of a fig tree. There are advantages for establishing structure in soil rather than in a pot.
Hi Ross. Thank you for all of the terrific information and dedication to growing and expanding the fig community. Newbie question here, We protected our 2 yr old Celeste and CH figs this winter, in Zone 6b,; got down to -6, and -8 below, consecutive nights in mid Jan. Nothing forecasted below low 20’s for at least next 10 days. When do you think it’s safe to fully unwrap these varieties? Late Feb? Early March? Thanks from West Virginia
I forgot to ask a question: do you have a favorite hose nozzle? I cant say I have a favorite, but I need buy three That topic about hormones you threw in at the end is one I think about many times a day. Thank you very much for introducing it to me years ago. I must have watched that video on repeat for a minute. It influences my daily actions probably more than any other concept. THX again
@@RossRaddi TY - this looks really cool. I see the regular one on johnnyseeds and the wand on advancing alternatives. I get one of these, but what about for a hard stream? Dont you ever need that? To wash down an area or something
One of my favorite lessons from you for sure. TY good sir When it went down to 4, 5, 6, and 7 deg, how long did it stay below freezing consistently (including daytime temps)? We had a few days in a row here in Dallas when it was staying below freezing even during the day time, that's when I panicked and brought all my potted trees in. Literally for those three days - super annoying.
@@RossRaddi holy moly that's amazing. Will keep that in mind for my in ground trees. How about for pots? I think you recommend brining them in at consistent below 20, right?
Can you pinch the tree that died most of the way back through the growing season? Get a couple branches growing off the new leader quickly and maybe it won't have the 6"+ node lengths and as much bare wood?
Hey Ross, I am planning on gifting 4 fig trees to a family member to be planted inground in zone 7b. I am planning to gift Campaniere, Green Michurinska, Hative d'Argenteuil, and Black Celeste. These are my choices out of the previously mentioned varieties along with, MBVS, White Madeira #1, Yellow Long Neck, Peter's Honey, and LSU Tiger. I was wondering if these are good choices or if you would switch out any of them for one of the other options. Thanks!
Can't get much better than your choices, yeah. However, I've yet to see what Hative can really do when planted in soil. Maybe WM instead to extend the season.
@@RossRaddi That's a good idea but is it different enough from Green Michurinska to rationalize growing both? Also, in your experience, what percentage of your White Madeira figs ripened on the inground tree?
![4 Reasons Your Fig Trees WON'T FRUIT [And How To FIX It!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t68-poI9w4k/mqdefault.jpg)
This winter I took some fig cuttings from a friends tree after watching one of your videos. Now I have four rooted cuttings happily growing in one gallon pots under grow lights. Thanks for the inspiration.
This is one of your best educational videos! Excellent information and well done Ross! Thanks so much!❤❤❤
One of you better video , a lot of infromation out there about
pruning, pinching fig trees.You
conveyed your reasons for not
to heavy prune a fruit tree as yearly event
Glad it was helpful!
I've been watching your videos for as long as long as you've been making them, and this may be my favorite. Thanks for putting in the work and sharing it.
Thank you for watching for so long!
One of your best videos - full of insights and valuable advice.
I really appreciate that! It's important info for sure.
No, for real, like how you explained the hormone thing...I finally understand how it works. I want to know even more about plant hormones!
That's awesome. It's empowering stuff.
I love your videos. Thank you. We're in southern Ontario in one of the zone 6s. I'd love to plant some figs outside and try to get them through a couple of winters, but we have a fence around our small yard. Do figs need a lot of sun? Thanks and thank you for your videos!
At least 4. Preferably 6 hours of direct sunlight.
I messaged you before. I'm near Limerick and my two trees are great. This is my 6th year since planting them. They are in raised beds in the open, not near any buildings for protection. The first two years I pruned them to the ground. They grew back healthy and are about the size of the one behind you with the thick branch. I only prune the dead little branches. Last year, with the weird weather, was the best so far. Had so many figs that I was able to share with the animals without netting. I didn't get the early figs. They came later but lasted longer with more abundance. I had less wasps & hornets eating them this past year. At least we got some coldness this winter. Maybe all plants will be happier than the past couple years. My new neighbors have two bee hives, so maybe it will benefit my plants. I started Kiwis last year. They are suppose to be hardy and be able to winter. I'll see.
i have some big trees but i would sure be afraid to not protect them even after 3 years and there as big around as my arm....there lignification on them was alot better on the new growth this season then last even tho i pruned them to protect them.... great video thanks for sharing your insight and experience
SORRY, DISAGREE. It's each variety's genetic capability. So it's the VARIETY. Lignification is simply a part of that capability. All plants have hormones, but how they're deployed in reaction to the environment or stressors, is built into each variety's genetic code. In my work, I test capability in trials showing and speaking to the results. I had 5 paragraphs explaining a bunch of my thoughts, but I've already said it all in one of your other videos so I'll just say this: There is a recent video from a very popular channel that perfectly explains what I'm saying so I'll let him speak to anyone who is interested. I can imagine many have seen this video already. If not, type "fig" into YT and it'll pop up. It will be interesting to compare your development of trees/fruit compared to the other person. If I'm wrong, I WILL SAY SO. I'm not too proud or stubborn. Ross, you're great at fig history and knowledge and I do appreciate that.
I agree with the first two points you made about lignification and hormones influenced by the varieties genetics. There's no doubt about that. "In reaction to the environment or stressors." That's my point. If the environment and stressors are making proper lignification more difficult to achieve, it doesn't matter how good the genetics are.
@@RossRaddi Ross, I'm going to let it rest there. I don't think I can be productive in our conversation.
Well done. I enjoyed it. This will be great for the cold zones fig growers . Here in Fresno California my Zaffiro and Bakor both have green swirly wood near the tips. This is even through our mild (30’s) winter. Would this be an example of not fully lignified? And have you personally seen this?
Not sure what you mean by swirly, Brian, but anything green is not lignified as well as it should be.
Thank you very much for another excellent video on lignification. I’m wondering what your thoughts are on growing fig trees in containers for two or three years, allowing them to lignify before planting them outside.
It can work, but I don't recommend it for the long-term structure of a fig tree. There are advantages for establishing structure in soil rather than in a pot.
Hi Ross. Thank you for all of the terrific information and dedication to growing and expanding the fig community. Newbie question here, We protected our 2 yr old Celeste and CH figs this winter, in Zone 6b,; got down to -6, and -8 below, consecutive nights in mid Jan. Nothing forecasted below low 20’s for at least next 10 days. When do you think it’s safe to fully unwrap these varieties? Late Feb? Early March?
Thanks from West Virginia
Early-mid March.
@ Ok. Thank you Ross.
I forgot to ask a question: do you have a favorite hose nozzle? I cant say I have a favorite, but I need buy three
That topic about hormones you threw in at the end is one I think about many times a day. Thank you very much for introducing it to me years ago. I must have watched that video on repeat for a minute. It influences my daily actions probably more than any other concept. THX again
The wonder waterer is my favorite. All replaceable parts. Problem is finding someone who carries it.
@@RossRaddi TY - this looks really cool. I see the regular one on johnnyseeds and the wand on advancing alternatives. I get one of these, but what about for a hard stream? Dont you ever need that? To wash down an area or something
One of my favorite lessons from you for sure. TY good sir
When it went down to 4, 5, 6, and 7 deg, how long did it stay below freezing consistently (including daytime temps)? We had a few days in a row here in Dallas when it was staying below freezing even during the day time, that's when I panicked and brought all my potted trees in. Literally for those three days - super annoying.
Multiple days actually. The highs were 19-22.
@@RossRaddi holy moly that's amazing. Will keep that in mind for my in ground trees. How about for pots? I think you recommend brining them in at consistent below 20, right?
Can you pinch the tree that died most of the way back through the growing season? Get a couple branches growing off the new leader quickly and maybe it won't have the 6"+ node lengths and as much bare wood?
Here I am in zone 5 living the mad fig life. 😂
Hey Ross, I am planning on gifting 4 fig trees to a family member to be planted inground in zone 7b. I am planning to gift Campaniere, Green Michurinska, Hative d'Argenteuil, and Black Celeste. These are my choices out of the previously mentioned varieties along with, MBVS, White Madeira #1, Yellow Long Neck, Peter's Honey, and LSU Tiger. I was wondering if these are good choices or if you would switch out any of them for one of the other options. Thanks!
Can't get much better than your choices, yeah.
However, I've yet to see what Hative can really do when planted in soil. Maybe WM instead to extend the season.
@@RossRaddi That's a good idea but is it different enough from Green Michurinska to rationalize growing both? Also, in your experience, what percentage of your White Madeira figs ripened on the inground tree?
How can you be 7a in Penn? I am 7b in the Charlotte NC area.
I'm 7a in Rhode Island. We even have 7b here.
Charlotte is 8A.
@@RossRaddi 27295 I'm in a strange drop in the zone area in NC
Can’t you force them to fruit with fertilizer like phosphorus? Nitrogen gives leaf growth potassium gives girth
No. That's a common myth. It can certainly help if the soil is deficient. That's almost never the case.
Teach me to be better.