24" x 24" Low Cost Home Built CNC Plasma Cutting Table
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ย. 2024
- This video describes the steps that I took to adapt a $349 CNC Laser Etching Table to a working 24"x24" CNC Plasma Cutting Table. I go through the hardware that I used and the modifications/steps that I took to make it function very well so that the table can be used for either plasma cut parts or laser etch parts with the same software!
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I picked up a 24 X 36 laser engraver at a yard sale for 40 bucks, complete but I have more use for a plasma cutter than a laser engraver..... well now its time to convert it over after watching this video.
Thank you for sharing your video and experience! really helps us all here!!
Nice I did the same thing with a cheap amazon plasma cutter and same laser engraver after watching Halfass Kustoms how to video. its been working great for about a month now.
What a fantastic use of affordable materials for cutting metal!!!!!!!! I hope you post more about this machines use. Thank you very much for sharing.
I think what you're doing is really cool. Keep the cost effective ideas coming!
Very nice build/upgrade, thank you for the information.
I've got the same setup lc60a with the primeweld 60 . I'm working on the bracket and trying to learn the lightburn software it's pretty detailed
The Lightburn software is very good. There are many features in the software that I learned through youtube videos. There are several great videos on Lightburn that helped me learn it quickly.
I take it once I get to the cutting part all I am really worried about is in/min setting and position
Well done!
your idea is very good but can you tell which relay you are using
I use a standard automotive 12V relay that you can get at any auto parts store. An example is Bosch PN 0986AH0150.
Can you explain more in detail about how you got the plasma cutter to fire off and on as a laser would
It's pretty straightforward. The laser uses 12V to turn on. My plasma cutter has 2 wires (from trigger) to turn on the torch. I use a 12V standard automotive relay, which 2 of the pins from the relay are connected to the two wires (12v power and a ground) that turn on the laser. I connect the two trigger wires from the plasma cutter to the other two terminals on the relay.... so when the software commands the laser to turn on, it powers the relay, which closes the connection for the 2 wires from the plasma cutter... and fires it up.
@@jlkainz how come you have to use the relay? Can’t you just connect the wires together?
What size rathing is the fuse that you've gone through
Hallo! You used the software that comes with a laser..they are usually faster, how did you reduce speed?. does it have a speed reduction option?
I use Lightburn software,. In Lightburn, once you draw your shape on the screen, it assigns a Cut Layer with a color (e.g. black) and a Cut Layer number (e.g. C01). Go to the Cuts/Layers tab , which should be on the right side of the screen in the upper dialog box. You should see C01 line and you can double click on that line. Once you open that u, you will see the Speed (mm/min) and you can modify the speed in this box. Good Luck!
@@jlkainz thank you
What voltage is your plasma cutter? Very inspiring video!
My Miller plasma cutter has dual voltage and will work with 110V or 220V.. I use 220V most of the time though... because I have been using it for cutting 7 gage metal plate.
Nice
Wonder if I could put a router on one? New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Que tal intenté hacer lo mismo pero me marca error en lightburn como resolviste el problema crees que tenga ruido la tarjeta (corriente estática ).How about I tried to do the same but I get an error in lightburn, how did you solve the problem? Do you think the card has noise (static current).
I did not have any issue with Lightburn, but I had to manually set the com port (Lightburn defaults to "Auto").
Link to the laser engraver you bought
Hi jeff, can you share how you connected the wiring from the laser to the relay
On the automotive relay, pins 85 and 86 are connected to the laser output (which is the 12V signal). Pins 30 and 87 are the plasma cutter trigger switch.
Im currently converting my sculpfun laser and i'm having trouble because it seems to be sending a constant signal. Its got me baffled
I have the same miller plasma cutter did you breakout the wires from inside the box of the plasma cutter ? Anyway you can share a wiring diagram ? Thank you !
Hi @rockbottom43, I do not have a diagram, but it was very easy to find the wires and hook up my 2 pin connector. First, I unscrewed the gun, then I unscrewed the plasma cutter panel. The gun has two wires going to the switch. I used a multimeter and determined where each wire is located in the connector harness at the machine. Then, I spliced my 2 pin connector into those same two trigger wires.
Awesome thank you, I assume the two trigger wires in the box aren't polarity specific meaning it doesn't matter which wire goes to terminal 87 or 30 on the relay? How is it all still working after a few months of use now with the laser cnc ?
Correct, it does not matter which wire goes on each side of the relay. The wires just need to connect to turn on the torch. I have used the plasma table for a few months and it has worked flawlessly for me. I did get a longer USB cable so that I could keep my computer away from the sparks. I have seen guys make a shield for their torches to reduce the sparks.
Appreciate all the help !
Does this lazer engraver come with height control or do you need to set the height manually?
Need to set up the height manually. Has not been an issue for me yet, but I am cutting thicker material...primarily 7 or 11 gage steel.
What did you do with the yellow wire going to laser? Looks like you ran the 12v and ground to relay but there is also the PWM yellow line.
PWM wire is not connected to the plasma cutter. The Lightburn Software can run the laser at different duty cycles ( PWM ) which is set in the software. This allows shading and other features that only the laser would use. When I run the plasma cutter, I always run at 100% duty cycle (always on).
Hi jeff, did you shield the cables from the plasma cutter? One reads again and again, the frequency interferes with the motors while driving. Greetings Dirk
Hi Dirk, I did not have to shield my cables with my Miller plasma cutter, hiwever I understand some plasma cutters will require this.
One question i cut a sq just fine but seems the layers in lightburn are tricky . Do i just switch the fill to cut or are you using some better software
Lightburn is primarily set up for laser, however I am using it for plasma cutting. I only use the cut feature in Lightburn with the plasma cutter.
@jlkainz I figured you switch any fill segments to line
Are you having any issues with slag in the linear guides????
I had a minor issue with contamination (probably slag) that got in the track and screwed up a cut, but I now use my compressed air with a blow gun to clean out the rails and track after a few uses. I have not run into any issues since. It has been reliable for me and I use it several times a week.
@@jlkainz I'm debating a 3-axis (smaller xy capability) and 2 axis like yours. The 3 axis is a CNC so the output is easier to wire but the 24"x24" is appealing... Thanks for the reply!
cut layer 1 should be the circle then layer 2 should be the outline i think,
What relay did you purchase?
I used a standard auotomotive relay... example is Bosch PN 0986AH0135. Pins 85 and 86 go to laser output (86 is + side). Pins 87 and 30 go to Plasma trigger.
sucks I cant find that size laser engraver... Im a month too late
It's 600mmx600mm (24x24)
I'm 6 months late😂
i started the same.. but its not enough, you need z, and z auto adjust thc something like that is called
You don't need thc it's torch hight control and for most stuff you can get away with a small adjustment
I have used the plasma cutter without z axis control and it works well. Miller recommends to have the torch at 1/8" from material... which is enough to avoid build up and slag. I have cut everything from 18 gage sheet metal to 7 gage (1/4") plate without issue. When cutting sheet metal, I need to set the cutting speed fast to avoid warping due to heat buildup. Works great for me and the cut quality is high with minimal slag.