Just done this job on my a4 after watching your video! Decided to crack on without having a proper wind back tool, as I've actually always just used a pair of pliers and/or a clamp haha! Got stuck half way and went and bought a wind back tool as it was too stiff, tool ended up bloody falling to bits haha! No help at all! Good old clamp method worked perfect.
I'm a first-time viewer of your videos , I'm very impressed 😎 Tap the front and the rear of the caliper with a lump hammer then it will just slide off lol
Marvin Lewis quite agree, makes the job a lot easier. Only trouble is I would have to order one online and wait ages for the French postal service to get it here, and we needed to use the car.
I don't have one showing that. If you have removed the caliper and the caliper mount and also the sunken retaining screw in the front of the disc it should come off. If you have done all of the above then give it a good hard hit with a hammer and it should fly off.
If my brake pad warning light is on the dash due to low pads , will replacing the pads cancel the warning light or will i need to replace the sensor too ? Thanks
If the light has come on due to the brake pads being worn low, then the sensor will have done its job and need changing. They tend to wear down through the plastic so that the metal contacts are exposed and that's (normally) what puts the light on.
Best part was when the poor soul was trying to tighten the clamp with pliers on the free rotating head all while holding the clamp handle with the other hand and he didn't notice that the pliers were doing absolutely nothing at all.
What for? Manufacturers specify minimum thickness for disc replacement, this was still well within those tolerances. Why spend money when you don't need to.
@@Bensgarage I have been told that in theory it is for longevity of the pads you replace so you have a nice even surface for the pads to wear in to. Now in the states at least i can go and get the rotors turned for cheap and reuse the rotors if there is enough meat on them. In reality it probably wont change much though to be honest.
Depends on flake to me. If there are no major grooves and rust flake is a minimum, new pads should wear just fine. If metal is flaking, or there are major different groove areas on the rotor, get new ones on
Really helpful and informative video. Content like this much appreciated. Thanks man
Yes it is other ones don't show all this!!!!
Just done this job on my a4 after watching your video! Decided to crack on without having a proper wind back tool, as I've actually always just used a pair of pliers and/or a clamp haha! Got stuck half way and went and bought a wind back tool as it was too stiff, tool ended up bloody falling to bits haha! No help at all! Good old clamp method worked perfect.
I'm a first-time viewer of your videos ,
I'm very impressed 😎
Tap the front and the rear of the caliper with a lump hammer then it will just slide off lol
Piston turning tool a must here.less than 20 quid.otherwise great vid
Marvin Lewis quite agree, makes the job a lot easier. Only trouble is I would have to order one online and wait ages for the French postal service to get it here, and we needed to use the car.
@@Bensgarage I would end up with clamp rash if I tried your method.you managed ok.
Thanks man you've been a great help
Took slightly longer than I thought due to the brake caliper being seized on. All sorted in the end.
Ben Elliott same thing happened to me.
You did a great job Much Appreciated!!!
Thanks A Lot Big Dog!!!!
You need a 2 point lift......you do brilliant considering the lack of mobility but we’ll have to see about getting you your lift.
That would be great, but better not let the cat out of the bag just yet!
very nice ....really
Very helpful video, but do you have a video showing how to replace the rotor. I having trouble to take off my old rotor (2004) model. Thanks
I don't have one showing that. If you have removed the caliper and the caliper mount and also the sunken retaining screw in the front of the disc it should come off. If you have done all of the above then give it a good hard hit with a hammer and it should fly off.
Shoutout to you brotha, love ya!
If my brake pad warning light is on the dash due to low pads , will replacing the pads cancel the warning light or will i need to replace the sensor too ? Thanks
If the light has come on due to the brake pads being worn low, then the sensor will have done its job and need changing. They tend to wear down through the plastic so that the metal contacts are exposed and that's (normally) what puts the light on.
Best part was when the poor soul was trying to tighten the clamp with pliers on the free rotating head all while holding the clamp handle with the other hand and he didn't notice that the pliers were doing absolutely nothing at all.
How come the video skips when putting the calliper back on how you get the springs in 😂😂😂😂
The Rear Disc should of been replaced as well!
What for? Manufacturers specify minimum thickness for disc replacement, this was still well within those tolerances. Why spend money when you don't need to.
@@Bensgarage I have been told that in theory it is for longevity of the pads you replace so you have a nice even surface for the pads to wear in to. Now in the states at least i can go and get the rotors turned for cheap and reuse the rotors if there is enough meat on them. In reality it probably wont change much though to be honest.
Depends on flake to me. If there are no major grooves and rust flake is a minimum, new pads should wear just fine. If metal is flaking, or there are major different groove areas on the rotor, get new ones on