this guy is a good teacher calm, clear and detailed instructions in the correct order all without having a Arrogant demeanor or going off point to talk a bunch of crap how other people do it and how they are wrong blah, blah, blah , I Definitely learned some things I didnt know I was doing wrong and couldn't figure out why my project came out the way it did ,so thank you!
What a great video! I worked in my dads upholstery / refinishing shop while growing up. He passed a few years back and i miss this work with him. Really nice to see the pride and craftsmanship.
Great video! Love the "change your shirt"--never heard that before but it makes perfect sense. I'm about to build a greenhouse and wonder how well this would work to prefinish the wood inside and out, for the high humidity environment?
Kush paint in a lot of Roseville MI make a great product for this instance. It is called Kush guard and it is 50% Linseed oil that penetrate deep into the wood and preserves it. No chance of it peeling yet it gives a water resistant finish to the Lumber that say eight or 10 years from now would be easy to add another coat to.
I’ve owned 17 or 18 Boats in my Life and i Usevthe same Process with another Spar Varnish and because my boats are generally left in the Marina i like to put 14 to 17 Coats of full strength Top Coats that allows me to maintain a nice Quality Finish throughout the Season at my own Pace yes my Boating Neighbors make fun of me because i often have a Varnish Brush in my hand but honestly i don’t mind it as it’s not hard work and i get to enjoy listening to the Music on Sunny Days and on occassion enjoy Adult Beverages as well
I used spar marine on a door facinf southwest in the fockies it did not last six months in the harsh high altitude sun. UV eats wood and any kind of varnish. Epoxy is the only thing that stands up to high altitude sunlight.
I'm new to this but loved the teaching and pace of the video. Thanks for all the great information. Question - I've bought some small 12" rolling platforms for my container garden (2 inches high) and thought it would be good to seal them as they will be exposed to water. They looked stained only - not varnished. Does all wood need to be washed or prepared in some way to use this process? I'd love to be able to just put the varnish on them as they are, without needing to do any intensive preparation. Thank you!
I take a little sample of the spar varnish and using something like a paper towel I coat a little 1 in.² on the suspected wood. In 48 hours, I try scratching it off and that tells me whether or not I need to prep the wood . If There’s something like a wax finish on it You could take paint thinner and either just a rag or possibly a fine scotch pad and take and wipe that down to kind of wash it and dry towel it off and then I bet then the same sample of spar will adhere like crazy. If for some reason, I thought I wasn’t getting it Clean enough My next step would be I’d use acetone or lacquer thinner and I would wash it down and that will take off pretty much anything that would prevent the varnish from hearing.
@@SG-xo3xt use it straight out of the can. It’ll dry quickly and you can sample again if needed. I wouldn’t apply any spar varnish full strength to these racks, 2 or 3 coats thinned so that it penetrates deep into the wood should provide years of protection.
Mr. Hardware what is the approximated square foot coverage on a quart of this varnish. No issues with camera. I just paid attention to your clear explanations on how and why. Thank you very much.
Fun stuff. I sand it down to the wood, stain it with water-based stain if desired. Seal with 3-4 coats of epoxy (West Systems or whatever), sanding in between of course. Then finish with 5 to 8 coats of UV varnish (epifanes or whatever) all sanded in between. UV varnish protects the epoxy. Epoxy protects the wood. Preval sprayers work great with varnish. It takes me much longer than your fine job though.
Try to find a linseed oil based deck finish. We like a product by Kush paint in Roseville Michigan. I believe they will ship, get 1 gallon more than they tell you. www.kushpaints.com/
Great video, late to the party..got a nice live edge slab of black maple, hand routed sign, want to leave the natural color of the maple,the streaks etc. Nervous about cutting with thinner, never had the opportunity to do any suggestions
Thinning the finish, makes it penetrate deeper into the wood, hence making it much more difficult to peel. You can still give it one coat of unthinned finish for full protection, but you will have those thinned primer coats underneath which will make the finish last much longer.
@@MrHardware1 I just purchased Helmsman Spar urethane it's water based. Paint thinner or water..I meant to ask you yesterday if yours was oil or water based
@@ryannastaj3269 I use oil based spar varnishes. I would defer to their recommendation on thinning or not. Water based products cure quickly and as such won’t get as deep a penetration as my method does. It’ll be interesting as to how well your product holds up.
@@MrHardware1 hmmm ok, yeah they don't recommend cutting it the grumpy lady said as I called yesterday. I'm also in Michigan here, Kentwood so the big lake effects the weather. Would you suggest that i switch to an oil based spar urethane? I didn't see anything oil based at any big box stores I went to. Defaulting to your knowledge base sir. My other option are epoxy, but not a fan.
I’m intrigued with the idea of using a TSP solution to remove varnish. What solution do you recommend? I noticed you said a strong solution - what’s the ratio?
It enhances the color and on surfaces that I can’t seal all sides of, like a deck, I only use one or two coats of thinned finish to prevent checking of the finish from moisture penetrating unsealed areas. Easier to clean and redcoat later.
Thank you for this video I just installed a butcher box vanity countertop and I thought you could just put it on like polyurethane and it was not hardening and I was getting so upset that I was ready to just give up on this project and no matter what I searched I couldn't find out my reason as to why I'm having this issue.
Good day! I’m hoping you can help me. I made a wood ornament for the outdoors with 4 colors, one being white. I was told to use Varathane ultimate Sparurethane oil base to seal the color so it can withstand the rain and elements. We’ll, I finished my last coat of 3 and it turned the white yellow. My question to you is, can I spray paint the white over the Varathane? Of course us rust oleum spray. Thank you.
It should hold the spray ok. I would lightly sand the surface for better bonding, also careful not to spray too thick a coat, it could ‘melt’ the prior finish.
I was looking on how to protect wood furniture, etc and bump into this video. He explains pretty well and made me understand easily even I am not really good about paints and such. I just suggest that he can focus the camera more on his work and not himself. I was hoping to see more of what he is doing. I will watch more of your vids.
Totally agree. The sound on the video is clear enough to hear his informative delivery. If the cameraman/woman had focused on his work on what he was doing instead of himself it would have been so much better. However the video is very informative and good tips on his work! Great video!
Props man. You are hard core. Change your clothes before the last coat 😂 I don’t have that patience but I guarantee your stuff looks better than mine :)
Nice video I'm interested in yacht varnish to protect outdoor wood. If I were to buy regular plywood for interior & exterior use, not marine grade ply, and paint it with yacht varnish the same as you did the swim platform. How long would it last outside used as the floor for a shed spaced off the ground on pressure treated 2x4? Thanks
What Cleaner have you used? Will it work for pool deck? It it too slippery for the floor? Or just perfect? I am so tiered of refinishing my pool deck. Thank you so much!!!
I’d use a cup of T.S.P. And a cup of bleach into a gallon of warm water, apply twice about 10 minutes apart, not to let the first coat dry. Cover your feet and legs as this mixture is strong! I use a scrub brush on a broom handle to apply and work the mixture into the deck. Usually the third pass w the brush is when I rinse it off. Linseed deck stains work best, see if you can procure KUSHGUARD from Kush paint in Roseville Mi. They ship and are the best manufacturers of stains around.
I have some reclaimed, finished oak boards that I’d like to put to use in an outdoor project. Can I put an exterior finish over the top of the interior finish?
Sometimes it works. Problem is the penetration of the interior finish. usually the finish is fast drying with little penetration to allow for fast buildup. The expansion and contraction of exterior wood causes the finish to break away from the surface which the coating of exterior spar varnish cannot help because it couldn’t penetrate into the wood.
I enjoyed video and learned some new things, especially role sun plays in bringing water to surface of wood. I want to build 2 Muskoka chairs ( I’m from Ontario They are called Adirondack chairs in US) so would you use oil based Spar Varnish as you show in video and would you do it before assembly so ALL surfaces can be treated.? Finally how do you clean and restrain in 4 years? Thanks
I would get 2 coats (thinned) on my pieces first if possible. Then 1 thinned after assembly followed by a full (un-thinned) coat. I block sand and clean with a scotch pad soaked in acetone for tight areas. Then if the old finish isn’t too burned out one thin coat and a full coat. I’ve gone too long once in a while and really had bare wood so I had to go to 2 coats thinned followed by a full coat.
I have a question about which finish to use for some patio furniture- I have some old wooden frames from upholstered chairs (probably 1920’s-1930’s) that I dumpster picked. I have saturated the wood with boiled linseed oil, mainly to protect the wood as best as I could see internally from potential rot from absorbing water. I would like to paint them, and I’m leaning towards an oil-based exterior paint, but I’d really like to lay a protective layer on the top, mainly because the chairs will see more wear than the side of a house. Question is- which finish would be best for my project? Polyurethane is out because of the way it sits on the surface like a solid shell without any flex and will eventually crack off, which is a pain in the butt to fix. Varnish- everything I know about its benefits begin with the way it absorbs into the wood as its foundation and builds up from there, but the finish will be applied over paint. Varnish does give UV protection and flexes which are what I’m looking for. Does it work well on top of paint? Shellac- can be used outdoors, but it isn’t as durable and would probably have to be reapplied yearly, but that’s easy to do based on the way the layers blend together- no need to sand first. Any thoughts?
I use oil based exterior paint thinned 10% with linseed oil and a little paint thinner to make it a better penetrant into the wood. I never over-coat exterior finishes because it prevents breathing of the finish which causes pealing. Too thick or too many finishes are prone to pealing also.
I use a waterborn exterior varnish to protect signs. Be sure to seal all the sides of the sign because water gets behind the paint and varnish and it will peal.
Fine Woodworking did a 12-month outdoor test of different spar varnishes. They rated Man'O'War "fair to good," so not really the "best" protection. See: "Torture Test For Outdoor Finishes." It's like twice as expensive though...
Can you mix in some darker stained fine sanding dust from the same wood with the epifanes spar varnish mixed and wet sanded in to fill the pores in the early thined coats?
You may, but it may make for a rough surface. You may try to make a trowelable paste... Your door is that badly grained? I say save this effort for a table top or something folks can sit and enjoy, a door gets little 'detailed attention'.
I only use steel wool, or plastic wool, on intricate surfaces. I like the flattening of the finish sandpaper provides. Steel wool smooths but does not flatten.
I'm currently staining some tongue and groove for a outdoor porch...having a very tough time picking a top coat as i've spent a lot of time on this project and don't want it to yellow and would like the top coat to last as long as possible. Do you think this would be a good product to finish the pine T&G with?
@Nate Moseley @Mr. Hardware Did you try this vanish as a top coat on your floor? I am working on a T&G pine covered porch floor as well. Instead of staining and sealing with something like Cabot oil stain, I am considering sealing with penetrating epoxy from Total Boat and then top coating with a vanish. Is it a bad idea to use a penetrating epoxy if all sides of the floor cannot be sealed?
Hi Mr Gilbert, how are you? I have a question. If I have already stained wood with a penetrating stain, could I still add a top coat of lacquer or enamel or something to help give is further weatherproofing? Would it hold?
The finish itself is good for 8 to 10 years. Not thinning it makes it easier to check or peel especially at the bottom if you didn’t seal the bottom super well.
Cedar is rot resistant, but like all wood it shrinks and expands in humidity which brings in its own problems. I don’t know what role the cedar is playing under a bed liner, however I would get plastic paneling like FRP board or the like which will never rot and is more stable to moisture but it does shrink and expand in heat and cold.
You are very optimistic if you think your going to get four years of varnish lasting on teak swim platform. We leave ours natural teak, as varnish would never last in a Marine environment.. We have a 50 year old Grand Banks wooden trawler, that is loaded with teak bright work, and have tried every method. and Nothing lasts on Teak. It’s a very oily wood The only way the varnish lasts is if we keep,it covered. I’ve tried gluing the varnish down with epoxy sealer, I’ve tried thinned initial coats, etc, etc. we have to re do the varnish every year.
Great video @Mr. Hardware! We're just learning about Spar Varnish and your video answered our questions on application! Keep up the good work! Love your energy :) - Brian + Erin Currently converting a '97 Thomas School Bus into a Skoolie Motorhome
@@BEAdventurePartners Kudos to actually building. I’ve been in the planning stage for far too long, but hopefully not much longer. Side note, AAA bus has been in my sights for a very long time. Glad to see that’s where you went for yours. Also, your thorough explanations definitely resonate greatly with me, as I’m an educator. Your videos are always worth the 20 plus minutes I devote out of my busy day to watch! Keep up the great work!!
@@Psalm91ArmorUp Tony & Joe from AAA helped a ton to pick a solid bus! Planning without a bus can be difficult considering having a bus you can get real measurements. Let us know if you have any questions & we can chat! - B+E
@@BEAdventurePartners That would be super helpful!! I’m working off a bus schematic (exterior side, top view with roof removed) using a scale I created for the image :). The under body/chassis was a real mystery until I watched your underbody storage playlist. BTW super great job persevering with that in the freaking winter!!!
Quick question what finish would you recommend on exterior wood. Pine Wood on a homes Roof Trimmings I live in the Midwest. We get horrible cold it in winter, bad humidity & heat in the summer. What is the best product on the market for me to use? I want it to last as long as possible and give me max protection. What is the #1 product for this type of project? A bit off topic from this video but I might as well ask since its in the same ball park. How about stain product? Client is looking to go with a Black Walnut Stain Color. I've been looking into ExoShield which is a Tung Oil its $125 a gallon and claims to have the best protection. "Best Protection from UV & moisture" is what they claim.
We use and sell a product, KUSHGARD, manufactured here in Michigan. It is 50% linseed oil and it lasts 4 years or more on a sun exposed deck. Double or longer on vertical surfaces. Kushpaint.com
That is what I prefer, I still thin out the first 2 coats. Be sure to coat the top and bottom well, often the source of moisture that causes varnish to peal.
I use that same finish and love it! What would you use as a grain filler on that bench (assuming you wanted to)? I'm considering filling the grains on an exterior Mahogany or White Oak entry door, exposed to the elements, finished with about 4-5 coats McCloskey's Man O War? Or would you even bother on an exterior door?
I don't use filler on doors or much exterior surfaces other than boats. Most Mohagany does not need filler, the white oak you could use Old Masters filler, thinned, over a one coat of thinned spar varnish, then overcoat with 1 or 2 thinned coats of thinned spar.
@@MrHardware1 Old Masters woodgrain filler says this product is intended for interior use. I contacted them with the theory mentioned above and they said their woodgrain filler does not expand with the heat and contract with the cold. It would eventually “pop” off of the door. Any other grain fillers out there proven to work on an exterior entry door job that will need to face the weather?
@@slappy1965 Not that I'm aware of. I was thinking if the filler was thin enough when used to fill the grain it would flex with the weather. My next step would be a belt sander to smooth the grain is it was mandatory.
Love the video great advice. I'm about to finish a new knotty alder exterior entry system. If I'm correct I seem to remember a product synthetic I believe, that will really make the grain and pores pop. Might of been black something I dont remember maybe you can help me out with this?
Sometimes an oil based finish, spar varnish and others, bring out the grain nicely if I desire a light color. After that I thin stains of various colors (depending on my goal) to bring out the grain w/out making the project too dark. Testing is the fun part.... Blair
I'm planning on applying Man O War Spar Varnish on my new raw door while working in a detached garage. Temps are supposed to dip into the 40s outside during the process next week. I don't have any heaters. I'm putting 4 coats on both sides. Planned on 24 hr dry time between coats = 8 days. Any concerns? Also, do you think Man O War darkens African Mahogany more than what I can see by just a rubdown of mineral oil to test what a clear finish may look like?
If you are thinning the first coat or 2 they will dry fine, possibly more than 24 hours at 40 degrees. The finish coats should be applied on a 45 degree and rising day. 45 as a high is not a day for finishing.
Thanks Blair. I will wait until the weather warms. Question on the final coat of semi-gloss. If there are dust nips in the final coat do you ever recommend wet sanding with a 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper? I’ve even seen people suggest using a paper bag.
I would go to the manufacturer of the door first and see what they recommend. When I’ve done other fiberglass objects, I’ve used a latex or waterborne spar varnish instead the oil base.
Thanks so much for the tips. Few questions: how long between first two thin coats - 25 Min? How long before light (150) sand? Then the next two coats - wasnt completely clear. What adjustment would you make for vertical job - hung door? Thanks in advance....
Usually, unless it is hot and very dry, I wait 2 to 4 hours between the initial coats. I don't sand until just before the last coat, and it must be hard and cured, 24 hours, before it will sand well. A vertical surface requires thinner coats, sometimes with a slightly thinned finish. Too thick a product or too much product and it will sag and cause drips.
Great video. I have a old truck Iam putting a ash wood floor in it and would like to do a transparent stain in a gray or black what would you recommend? Thanks for any help
I would go 'old school' and take oil based exterior enamel paint in the color you desire. I would cut it 30 to 50% with paint thinner to turn it into a stain. Then to add wood preservative to it put in about 10% linseed oil. The ratios are not real important, what is important is to get the paint to the right consistency so it gives you the effect on the wood grain. More thinner, more wood grain will show. I would be nice if you could get it the right thinness so you could use 2 coats to better protect the wood.
@@naturalhealing9970 It will yellow the color a bit. I don't like mixing latex and oil products but this might be fine. I would use latex porch and deck paint the next time. You may want to sprinkle a little play sand on the top to make the surface non-slip incase it ever gets wet. Wet shoes on a rainy day.
just what I needed to know Thanks a bunch as Im building a skin on frame canoe and no one seemed to be able to give me an answer on what the difrence of varnish and urethane was. this did everything i needed to know. going to check hardware store tomorrow for varnish.
Can it be used on finished metal? I have some new deck furniture that looks great I but read that the metal finish on these could get scratched a little too easily. I thought this might be a harder surface. Also, Would it get cloudy with time, being outdoors?
I feel automotive clear coats are the only way to protect painted metal. Varnish over paint on metal is usually a bad idea. I repainted my outdoor table w/ a high quality spray paint after they got too beat up and they look good years later.
I do not recommend a gloss finish on any exterior wood that cannot be sealed on all 6 sides. Top bottom sides and ends. What happens is water gets into the wood by rain, humidity and condensation just by being outdoors. Then the sun heats up the top of the wood eventually drawing the water through the finish. It cracks and becomes a mess. There are some products claiming to be long lasting but I don't carry or use them, sorry for that. Blair
Varnish is usually more flexible so I use it for wood that undergoes extreem humidity changes. Urethane is for more stable projects that don't expand and contract as much and gives a harder finish. Gloss is usually more durable but I like satin for furniture.
Comment number 100!!!! So what do you recommend on a picnic table that sees full sun and normal east coast winters? I am considering deck stain/sealer, your comment at the beginning seems explicit that you would not use spar marine varnish 0:51
@@blairgilbert7606thank you for your reply. I thought it was 22 hours between finish coats. What about light areas before my next thinned coats? The customer is happy but I'm not. Will they darken with the next 3 coats or should I ad staine before the second thin coat?
@@BENJAMIN-zi4gv Two ways to darken a finish, one is to put on a wiping stain lightly until you achieve the right color, then will you put on a coat of sealer over it. you’ll have to go lightly and quickly or you will remove the stain you just applied . Another way is to take a small amount of finish and mix in some stain and apply that to darken an area.
Yes, the bottom must be done to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. Once the wood gets damp the sun will pull the moisture to the surface causing the finish to peal. Blair
@@MrHardware1 What product would you recommend for the grain filler if the wood is exterior, like an exterior facing door? Every product I've searched looks to be water-based and when I contact the company they say for interior use only, even with a Spar Varnish finish. Even Old Masters told me their oil-based Old Masters Woodgrain Filler is for interior only. Feeling lost.
@@slappy1965 I would pre-seal the door with a thinned spar varnish, then use the Old Masters filler. Then seal that with a coat or 2 with the thinned spar before coating with a coat of un-thinned spar.
it is difficult to get any manufacturer to call any varnish or paint safe or food grade. Usually once it is cured, about 5 days, it is non toxic but nobody will claim that. Darn lawyers
I am planning to apply tung oil on my red cedar picnic table . 3 years ago I (unwisely) applied polyurethane and now it has totally faded. I would like your advice . Thanks
We sell a 50% linseed deck finish for picnic tables if you can live with a live grain wood surface. Wash it with oxyclean and recoat every 4 years. Almost maintenance free. It is called KushGuard and manufactured by Kush Paint in Roseville Mi. Call and they can ship, 586-293-4545
Yes, it does go over gel stain and wiping stains. Make sure they have cured so the oil-based spar does not liquify the stain and start moving it around.
@@blairgilbert7606 thank you so much. It had leaked sap in a certain area so I had painted it with the paint stain but wanted to try a different color. I am even going to try this on a metal frame of glass cabinet. I had already primed it for regular paint but apparently that doesn't matter.
@@slappy1965 is it possible to bring it in the house? It will cure and harden probably w/out any issues other than accumulating dust until it gets hard enough. I have some old quartz construction lights that get incredibly hot that I’ve placed a safe distance from a project to cure it out. Be very cautious about starting a fire, check the temp of your project every hour when doing something like this. Any heater left unattended is ALWAYS a potential for fire.
@ unfortunately no because the smell gives my wife a headache. It has been over a week now and still tacky in the garage. Temps are supposed to be 30s-40s for the next couple weeks. I’m doomed. Not to mention the door isn’t protecting the primary 100 year old beautiful Oak door.
A problem could arise because once moisture gets into the wood of the table the sun may pull it through the finish and ruin it all. The first coats of exterior should be thinned for better penetration, the inter finish was probably applied quickly and without need for penetration.
No, to protect exterior latex paint I use a 'water born' exterior latex Spar Varnish. I believe we sell Old Masters brand. I like to keep 'water born' products together, latex paint, latex spar varnish. Also oil products will add a 'yellow, amber' hue over the base colors.
Most all oil based varnishes darken and amber up the wood color in varying degrees, as far as I know only water born finishes don't amber up the color.
this guy is a good teacher calm, clear and detailed instructions in the correct order all without having a Arrogant demeanor or going off point to talk a bunch of crap how other people do it and how they are wrong blah, blah, blah , I Definitely learned some things I didnt know I was doing wrong and couldn't figure out why my project came out the way it did ,so thank you!
True American role model. Guy knows his stuff. Respect!
Your grandpa and dad did a good job with you. Thank you
Perfect tutorial, sir. Anyone can make a “how to” video. We need more “why to” videos like yours.
Right up there as one of the most succinct and useful instructional videos. Thank you, you have changed the way I will varnish wood forever.
What a great video! I worked in my dads upholstery / refinishing shop while growing up. He passed a few years back and i miss this work with him. Really nice to see the pride and craftsmanship.
Been doing this for a few decades. TIL - CHANGE YOUR SHIRT. Brilliant. Thank you so much. omg.
Excellent video sir. Fold in more old timer tricks when ever possible please! We need their influence these days.
This guy is just cool as ice. Love how he explains the details! Thank you Mr. Hardware!
I have only made 2 years with this method. Used on my boat and outdoor furniture. Better than using straight out of the can though. Great advice!
you're pretty unique in the way that you give a lot of background info during the project, very refreshing. Great video, thanks!
a scholar and a gentleman for sure. great video
Pretty cool and practical advice from grandpa. Thumbs up
Great stuff! Thanks for this video, young man. Filled with excellent advice. One small quibble: please put on a mask when sanding. God Bless you.
Great delivery.
Great tips and straight to the point
Great video. This is how your finish. I have been doing wood floors this way for over 40 years, First coat 20 percent thinner!
what about using sanding sealer 2 coats because it drys so fast and then 1 or two coats of the varnish full strength
@@brianwagner9518 Nope!
You make the most sense! There’s only a few things that someone would say, “that makes sense!”
I was taught by a pile of old guys that made sense to me too! Blair
Great video! Love the "change your shirt"--never heard that before but it makes perfect sense. I'm about to build a greenhouse and wonder how well this would work to prefinish the wood inside and out, for the high humidity environment?
Kush paint in a lot of Roseville MI make a great product for this instance. It is called Kush guard and it is 50% Linseed oil that penetrate deep into the wood and preserves it. No chance of it peeling yet it gives a water resistant finish to the Lumber that say eight or 10 years from now would be easy to add another coat to.
@@MrHardware1 Thanks so much! :)
I’ve owned 17 or 18 Boats in my Life and i Usevthe same Process with another Spar Varnish and because my boats are generally left in the Marina i like to put 14 to 17 Coats of full strength Top Coats that allows me to maintain a nice Quality Finish throughout the Season at my own Pace yes my Boating Neighbors make fun of me because i often have a Varnish Brush in my hand but honestly i don’t mind it as it’s not hard work and i get to enjoy listening to the Music on Sunny Days and on occassion enjoy Adult Beverages as well
My MAN, there are many of us! Most won’t do this so I don’t go down that road.
I used spar marine on a door facinf southwest in the fockies it did not last six months in the harsh high altitude sun. UV eats wood and any kind of varnish. Epoxy is the only thing that stands up to high altitude sunlight.
I'm new to this but loved the teaching and pace of the video. Thanks for all the great information. Question - I've bought some small 12" rolling platforms for my container garden (2 inches high) and thought it would be good to seal them as they will be exposed to water. They looked stained only - not varnished. Does all wood need to be washed or prepared in some way to use this process? I'd love to be able to just put the varnish on them as they are, without needing to do any intensive preparation. Thank you!
I take a little sample of the spar varnish and using something like a paper towel I coat a little 1 in.² on the suspected wood. In 48 hours, I try scratching it off and that tells me whether or not I need to prep the wood . If There’s something like a wax finish on it You could take paint thinner and either just a rag or possibly a fine scotch pad and take and wipe that down to kind of wash it and dry towel it off and then I bet then the same sample of spar will adhere like crazy. If for some reason, I thought I wasn’t getting it Clean enough My next step would be I’d use acetone or lacquer thinner and I would wash it down and that will take off pretty much anything that would prevent the varnish from hearing.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you. You make so much sense! I will do this. Thanks again!
I’m on to step 2. Should the laquer thinner be diluted as it says on the label or just wipe it on. Thank you!
@@SG-xo3xt use it straight out of the can. It’ll dry quickly and you can sample again if needed. I wouldn’t apply any spar varnish full strength to these racks, 2 or 3 coats thinned so that it penetrates deep into the wood should provide years of protection.
Mr. Hardware what is the approximated square foot coverage on a quart of this varnish. No issues with camera. I just paid attention to your clear explanations on how and why. Thank you very much.
On sealed wood, up to 100’. Unsealed 60’ or so…
Thank you for much for the step by step explanation! I absolutely loved this video!
Fun stuff. I sand it down to the wood, stain it with water-based stain if desired. Seal with 3-4 coats of epoxy (West Systems or whatever), sanding in between of course. Then finish with 5 to 8 coats of UV varnish (epifanes or whatever) all sanded in between. UV varnish protects the epoxy. Epoxy protects the wood. Preval sprayers work great with varnish. It takes me much longer than your fine job though.
wow. thats awesome. how long does that last?
I wish the camera was pointed at and inspecting the wood while we listen to his tips
Love this!! Wonder if I can do my old weathered pine deck with this solution. Of course after I’ve cleaned an stripped it
Try to find a linseed oil based deck finish. We like a product by Kush paint in Roseville Michigan. I believe they will ship, get 1 gallon more than they tell you. www.kushpaints.com/
Great video, late to the party..got a nice live edge slab of black maple, hand routed sign, want to leave the natural color of the maple,the streaks etc. Nervous about cutting with thinner, never had the opportunity to do any suggestions
Thinning the finish, makes it penetrate deeper into the wood, hence making it much more difficult to peel. You can still give it one coat of unthinned finish for full protection, but you will have those thinned primer coats underneath which will make the finish last much longer.
@@MrHardware1 I just purchased Helmsman Spar urethane it's water based. Paint thinner or water..I meant to ask you yesterday if yours was oil or water based
@@ryannastaj3269 I use oil based spar varnishes. I would defer to their recommendation on thinning or not. Water based products cure quickly and as such won’t get as deep a penetration as my method does. It’ll be interesting as to how well your product holds up.
@@MrHardware1 hmmm ok, yeah they don't recommend cutting it the grumpy lady said as I called yesterday. I'm also in Michigan here, Kentwood so the big lake effects the weather. Would you suggest that i switch to an oil based spar urethane? I didn't see anything oil based at any big box stores I went to. Defaulting to your knowledge base sir. My other option are epoxy, but not a fan.
@@MrHardware1 if you ship to me, possibly purchase from you, your store
I’m intrigued with the idea of using a TSP solution to remove varnish. What solution do you recommend? I noticed you said a strong solution - what’s the ratio?
@@bluesky6327 one cup TSP TO ONE GALLON WARM WATER, be careful to use hand and body protection if you might get it on you.
How would it turn out on a small redwood porch & railings spray it in after power washing and sanding
It enhances the color and on surfaces that I can’t seal all sides of, like a deck, I only use one or two coats of thinned finish to prevent checking of the finish from moisture penetrating unsealed areas. Easier to clean and redcoat later.
Thank you for this video I just installed a butcher box vanity countertop and I thought you could just put it on like polyurethane and it was not hardening and I was getting so upset that I was ready to just give up on this project and no matter what I searched I couldn't find out my reason as to why I'm having this issue.
Good day! I’m hoping you can help me. I made a wood ornament for the outdoors with 4 colors, one being white. I was told to use Varathane ultimate Sparurethane oil base to seal the color so it can withstand the rain and elements. We’ll, I finished my last coat of 3 and it turned the white yellow. My question to you is, can I spray paint the white over the Varathane? Of course us rust oleum spray. Thank you.
It should hold the spray ok. I would lightly sand the surface for better bonding, also careful not to spray too thick a coat, it could ‘melt’ the prior finish.
I was looking on how to protect wood furniture, etc and bump into this video. He explains pretty well and made me understand easily even I am not really good about paints and such. I just suggest that he can focus the camera more on his work and not himself. I was hoping to see more of what he is doing. I will watch more of your vids.
Totally agree. The sound on the video is clear enough to hear his informative delivery. If the cameraman/woman had focused on his work on what he was doing instead of himself it would have been so much better.
However the video is very informative and good tips on his work!
Great video!
I use Interlux, Epifanes, or Total Boat when I do the bright work on yachts.
Props man. You are hard core. Change your clothes before the last coat 😂 I don’t have that patience but I guarantee your stuff looks better than mine :)
Dave Joyce.
Nice video I'm interested in yacht varnish to protect outdoor wood. If I were to buy regular plywood for interior & exterior use, not marine grade ply, and paint it with yacht varnish the same as you did the swim platform. How long would it last outside used as the floor for a shed spaced off the ground on pressure treated 2x4? Thanks
If it is inside the shed, it will last a very long time probably over 10 years
this gentlemen eyes so sharp when he mention the good teeth bite!
What Cleaner have you used? Will it work for pool deck? It it too slippery for the floor? Or just perfect? I am so tiered of refinishing my pool deck. Thank you so much!!!
I’d use a cup of T.S.P. And a cup of bleach into a gallon of warm water, apply twice about 10 minutes apart, not to let the first coat dry. Cover your feet and legs as this mixture is strong! I use a scrub brush on a broom handle to apply and work the mixture into the deck. Usually the third pass w the brush is when I rinse it off. Linseed deck stains work best, see if you can procure KUSHGUARD from Kush paint in Roseville Mi. They ship and are the best manufacturers of stains around.
I have some reclaimed, finished oak boards that I’d like to put to use in an outdoor project. Can I put an exterior finish over the top of the interior finish?
Sometimes it works. Problem is the penetration of the interior finish. usually the finish is fast drying with little penetration to allow for fast buildup. The expansion and contraction of exterior wood causes the finish to break away from the surface which the coating of exterior spar varnish cannot help because it couldn’t penetrate into the wood.
very wise and humble. Thanks!
I enjoyed video and learned some new things, especially role sun plays in bringing water to surface of wood. I want to build 2 Muskoka chairs ( I’m from Ontario They are called Adirondack chairs in US) so would you use oil based Spar Varnish as you show in video and would you do it before assembly so ALL surfaces can be treated.? Finally how do you clean and restrain in 4 years?
Thanks
I would get 2 coats (thinned) on my pieces first if possible. Then 1 thinned after assembly followed by a full (un-thinned) coat. I block sand and clean with a scotch pad soaked in acetone for tight areas. Then if the old finish isn’t too burned out one thin coat and a full coat. I’ve gone too long once in a while and really had bare wood so I had to go to 2 coats thinned followed by a full coat.
I have a question about which finish to use for some patio furniture-
I have some old wooden frames from upholstered chairs (probably 1920’s-1930’s) that I dumpster picked. I have saturated the wood with boiled linseed oil, mainly to protect the wood as best as I could see internally from potential rot from absorbing water. I would like to paint them, and I’m leaning towards an oil-based exterior paint, but I’d really like to lay a protective layer on the top, mainly because the chairs will see more wear than the side of a house.
Question is- which finish would be best for my project?
Polyurethane is out because of the way it sits on the surface like a solid shell without any flex and will eventually crack off, which is a pain in the butt to fix.
Varnish- everything I know about its benefits begin with the way it absorbs into the wood as its foundation and builds up from there, but the finish will be applied over paint. Varnish does give UV protection and flexes which are what I’m looking for. Does it work well on top of paint?
Shellac- can be used outdoors, but it isn’t as durable and would probably have to be reapplied yearly, but that’s easy to do based on the way the layers blend together- no need to sand first.
Any thoughts?
I use oil based exterior paint thinned 10% with linseed oil and a little paint thinner to make it a better penetrant into the wood. I never over-coat exterior finishes because it prevents breathing of the finish which causes pealing. Too thick or too many finishes are prone to pealing also.
@@MrHardware1 hey! Thank you very much. I appreciate you.
This guy is awesome.
Love your explanations. Thank you, so helpful.
Thank you for the great information! New subscriber here....!
Great video, in lieu of the dilution of the first two coats 10%, 20% would it be acceptable to use a stain conditioner?
Stain conditioner somewhat seals the wood to prevent over penetration of wood stain, I would say no because I want deeper penetration of the spar.
Can you use varnish over painted wood for exterior signage without ruining the paint?
I use a waterborn exterior varnish to protect signs. Be sure to seal all the sides of the sign because water gets behind the paint and varnish and it will peal.
Great video! Where can I purchase the Spar Marine Varnish used in the video? Thank you.
Good hardwares, paint stores or marine stores
Fine Woodworking did a 12-month outdoor test of different spar varnishes. They rated Man'O'War "fair to good," so not really the "best" protection. See: "Torture Test For Outdoor Finishes." It's like twice as expensive though...
Can you mix in some darker stained fine sanding dust from the same wood with the epifanes spar varnish mixed and wet sanded in to fill the pores in the early thined coats?
You may, but it may make for a rough surface. You may try to make a trowelable paste... Your door is that badly grained? I say save this effort for a table top or something folks can sit and enjoy, a door gets little 'detailed attention'.
great how-to video, thanks. how long between coats? ever use steel wool?
I only use steel wool, or plastic wool, on intricate surfaces. I like the flattening of the finish sandpaper provides. Steel wool smooths but does not flatten.
I'm currently staining some tongue and groove for a outdoor porch...having a very tough time picking a top coat as i've spent a lot of time on this project and don't want it to yellow and would like the top coat to last as long as possible. Do you think this would be a good product to finish the pine T&G with?
I would, probably thin 3 coats for the most penetration. Possibly no final full strength coat.
@Nate Moseley @Mr. Hardware
Did you try this vanish as a top coat on your floor? I am working on a T&G pine covered porch floor as well. Instead of staining and sealing with something like Cabot oil stain, I am considering sealing with penetrating epoxy from Total Boat and then top coating with a vanish. Is it a bad idea to use a penetrating epoxy if all sides of the floor cannot be sealed?
Hi Mr Gilbert, how are you? I have a question.
If I have already stained wood with a penetrating stain, could I still add a top coat of lacquer or enamel or something to help give is further weatherproofing? Would it hold?
Further weatherproofing would be better achieved using one or two coats of 10% thinned spar varnish over your stain.
@@MrHardware1 Great! This may just be perfect--thank you so much. I needed help with it. Grateful.
Is it possible to add a stain - Can you recommend any to add to this technique
I would mix Zar oil based wood stain with the varnish in order to make my project a little darker on the next coat.
Could mineral spirit be used to thin it?
Good video
Can you use it for a deck after you’ve stained it?
How long would you expect Marine spar to last on an exterior door if you don't thin it?
The finish itself is good for 8 to 10 years. Not thinning it makes it easier to check or peel especially at the bottom if you didn’t seal the bottom super well.
Can I coat the cedar and put bed liner on top? Im making a drawer system for my truck but its exposed to the elements and would like it weatherproof.
Cedar is rot resistant, but like all wood it shrinks and expands in humidity which brings in its own problems. I don’t know what role the cedar is playing under a bed liner, however I would get plastic paneling like FRP board or the like which will never rot and is more stable to moisture but it does shrink and expand in heat and cold.
You are very optimistic if you think your going to get four years of varnish lasting on teak swim platform. We leave ours natural teak, as varnish would never last in a Marine environment.. We have a 50 year old Grand Banks wooden trawler, that is loaded with teak bright work, and have tried every method. and Nothing lasts on Teak. It’s a very oily wood The only way the varnish lasts is if we keep,it covered. I’ve tried gluing the varnish down with epoxy sealer, I’ve tried thinned initial coats, etc, etc. we have to re do the varnish every year.
Great video @Mr. Hardware! We're just learning about Spar Varnish and your video answered our questions on application! Keep up the good work! Love your energy :)
- Brian + Erin
Currently converting a '97 Thomas School Bus into a Skoolie Motorhome
So cool that I’ve been watching all your bus videos and I find your comment here 😁😁😁
@@Psalm91ArmorUp TH-cam University in session, right!?! Thanks for following our bus build! We’re still at it and have been since September 2019 🤣
@@BEAdventurePartners Kudos to actually building. I’ve been in the planning stage for far too long, but hopefully not much longer. Side note, AAA bus has been in my sights for a very long time. Glad to see that’s where you went for yours. Also, your thorough explanations definitely resonate greatly with me, as I’m an educator. Your videos are always worth the 20 plus minutes I devote out of my busy day to watch! Keep up the great work!!
@@Psalm91ArmorUp Tony & Joe from AAA helped a ton to pick a solid bus! Planning without a bus can be difficult considering having a bus you can get real measurements. Let us know if you have any questions & we can chat!
- B+E
@@BEAdventurePartners That would be super helpful!! I’m working off a bus schematic (exterior side, top view with roof removed) using a scale I created for the image :). The under body/chassis was a real mystery until I watched your underbody storage playlist. BTW super great job persevering with that in the freaking winter!!!
Quick question what finish would you recommend on exterior wood. Pine Wood on a homes Roof Trimmings I live in the Midwest. We get horrible cold it in winter, bad humidity & heat in the summer. What is the best product on the market for me to use? I want it to last as long as possible and give me max protection. What is the #1 product for this type of project?
A bit off topic from this video but I might as well ask since its in the same ball park. How about stain product? Client is looking to go with a Black Walnut Stain Color. I've been looking into ExoShield which is a Tung Oil its $125 a gallon and claims to have the best protection. "Best Protection from UV & moisture" is what they claim.
We use and sell a product, KUSHGARD, manufactured here in Michigan. It is 50% linseed oil and it lasts 4 years or more on a sun exposed deck. Double or longer on vertical surfaces. Kushpaint.com
How has it held up in the sun? See a lot of spar varnish fail in sunlight
It is for sunlight. I get about 4 yrs between refinishing.
Will the spar varnish work well over a stained exterior wood door?
That is what I prefer, I still thin out the first 2 coats. Be sure to coat the top and bottom well, often the source of moisture that causes varnish to peal.
I use that same finish and love it! What would you use as a grain filler on that bench (assuming you wanted to)? I'm considering filling the grains on an exterior Mahogany or White Oak entry door, exposed to the elements, finished with about 4-5 coats McCloskey's Man O War? Or would you even bother on an exterior door?
I don't use filler on doors or much exterior surfaces other than boats. Most Mohagany does not need filler, the white oak you could use Old Masters filler, thinned, over a one coat of thinned spar varnish, then overcoat with 1 or 2 thinned coats of thinned spar.
@@MrHardware1 Old Masters woodgrain filler says this product is intended for interior use. I contacted them with the theory mentioned above and they said their woodgrain filler does not expand with the heat and contract with the cold. It would eventually “pop” off of the door. Any other grain fillers out there proven to work on an exterior entry door job that will need to face the weather?
@@slappy1965 Not that I'm aware of. I was thinking if the filler was thin enough when used to fill the grain it would flex with the weather. My next step would be a belt sander to smooth the grain is it was mandatory.
Love the video great advice. I'm about to finish a new knotty alder exterior entry system. If I'm correct I seem to remember a product synthetic I believe, that will really make the grain and pores pop. Might of been black something I dont remember maybe you can help me out with this?
Sometimes an oil based finish, spar varnish and others, bring out the grain nicely if I desire a light color. After that I thin stains of various colors (depending on my goal) to bring out the grain w/out making the project too dark. Testing is the fun part.... Blair
Think I'm gonna try some dye and spar varnish
so it peels off every year
I'm planning on applying Man O War Spar Varnish on my new raw door while working in a detached garage. Temps are supposed to dip into the 40s outside during the process next week. I don't have any heaters. I'm putting 4 coats on both sides. Planned on 24 hr dry time between coats = 8 days. Any concerns? Also, do you think Man O War darkens African Mahogany more than what I can see by just a rubdown of mineral oil to test what a clear finish may look like?
If you are thinning the first coat or 2 they will dry fine, possibly more than 24 hours at 40 degrees. The finish coats should be applied on a 45 degree and rising day. 45 as a high is not a day for finishing.
Thanks Blair. I will wait until the weather warms. Question on the final coat of semi-gloss. If there are dust nips in the final coat do you ever recommend wet sanding with a 600 or 1000 grit sandpaper? I’ve even seen people suggest using a paper bag.
Can you use this on fibreglass door
I would go to the manufacturer of the door first and see what they recommend. When I’ve done other fiberglass objects, I’ve used a latex or waterborne spar varnish instead the oil base.
Thanks so much for the tips. Few questions: how long between first two thin coats - 25 Min? How long before light (150) sand? Then the next two coats - wasnt completely clear. What adjustment would you make for vertical job - hung door? Thanks in advance....
Usually, unless it is hot and very dry, I wait 2 to 4 hours between the initial coats. I don't sand until just before the last coat, and it must be hard and cured, 24 hours, before it will sand well. A vertical surface requires thinner coats, sometimes with a slightly thinned finish. Too thick a product or too much product and it will sag and cause drips.
@@MrHardware1 THANKS! Just what I was looking for. The durations will be a good guide for me. :D
Can you add this to stained wood
Of course, if it is a latex (water-based) stain wail several days to insure it is totally dry.
Great video. I have a old truck Iam putting a ash wood floor in it and would like to do a transparent stain in a gray or black what would you recommend? Thanks for any help
I would go 'old school' and take oil based exterior enamel paint in the color you desire. I would cut it 30 to 50% with paint thinner to turn it into a stain. Then to add wood preservative to it put in about 10% linseed oil. The ratios are not real important, what is important is to get the paint to the right consistency so it gives you the effect on the wood grain. More thinner, more wood grain will show. I would be nice if you could get it the right thinness so you could use 2 coats to better protect the wood.
How long should I wait after I apply stain to a door before applying the spar varnish? Great tutorial, thanks for posting :)
Sorry for the delay, you are probably done... however 24 hours of normal semi dry weather is usually enough.
@@MrHardware1 how do i test for semi dry weather? Haha jk
Can I use lacquer thinner in Gleam 2.0 marine spar varnish?
Can you put this over a deck stain / sealer? Acrylic water based.
I don't because moisture gets into the deck from below and the sun pulls out the moisture and ruins the finish. Stay with breathable deck finishes.
@@MrHardware1 This is a single step in my garage, from the garage floor into the house. No rain and no sun. Just lots of foot traffic.
@@naturalhealing9970 It will yellow the color a bit. I don't like mixing latex and oil products but this might be fine. I would use latex porch and deck paint the next time. You may want to sprinkle a little play sand on the top to make the surface non-slip incase it ever gets wet. Wet shoes on a rainy day.
just what I needed to know Thanks a bunch as Im building a skin on frame canoe and no one seemed to be able to give me an answer on what the difrence of varnish and urethane was. this did everything i needed to know. going to check hardware store tomorrow for varnish.
Spar varnish, w/uv protection.
Can it be used on finished metal? I have some new deck furniture that looks great I but read that the metal finish on these could get scratched a little too easily. I thought this might be a harder surface.
Also, Would it get cloudy with time, being outdoors?
I feel automotive clear coats are the only way to protect painted metal. Varnish over paint on metal is usually a bad idea. I repainted my outdoor table w/ a high quality spray paint after they got too beat up and they look good years later.
@@MrHardware1 that's a good idea, thanks!
Great tips, thanks!
can i use this over an outdoor stain?
Yes
Hello I'm just wondering if tung oil is pretty durable for outdoor projects according to your experience? Thank you.
I wouldn't, it doesn't have the uv protectors spar does.
@@MrHardware1 got it. thanks so much!
Which is better uv resistant finish spar varnish or tung oil ?
Spar, no uv in tung oil as far as I know
What grit are you finishing with before you apply that first two coats of spar varnish/thinner?
I usually use 220 with a 'light' hand.
What do you suggest for a beginner who has to work outside?
Same stuff, just keep the wood dry.
Use Total Boat it's the best.
Hi, what would you recommend for a wood deck. I applied a redwood stain but it does not keeps a gloss, which I would like.Thank you!
I do not recommend a gloss finish on any exterior wood that cannot be sealed on all 6 sides. Top bottom sides and ends. What happens is water gets into the wood by rain, humidity and condensation just by being outdoors. Then the sun heats up the top of the wood eventually drawing the water through the finish. It cracks and becomes a mess. There are some products claiming to be long lasting but I don't carry or use them, sorry for that. Blair
spar varnish or spar urethane ? satin; outdoor use for heat and humidity ??
Varnish is usually more flexible so I use it for wood that undergoes extreem humidity changes. Urethane is for more stable projects that don't expand and contract as much and gives a harder finish. Gloss is usually more durable but I like satin for furniture.
Comment number 100!!!! So what do you recommend on a picnic table that sees full sun and normal east coast winters? I am considering deck stain/sealer, your comment at the beginning seems explicit that you would not use spar marine varnish 0:51
Can you thin varnish with lacquer thinner for spraying faster
I have but we may be compromising the quality of the finish a little.
Can I put my 2nd thinned coat on the next day??
Yup, but once you get to a finish coat and let it cure over 48 hours you need to sand so the next coat can bond better.
@@blairgilbert7606thank you for your reply. I thought it was 22 hours between finish coats. What about light areas before my next thinned coats? The customer is happy but I'm not. Will they darken with the next 3 coats or should I ad staine before the second thin coat?
@@BENJAMIN-zi4gv Two ways to darken a finish, one is to put on a wiping stain lightly until you achieve the right color, then will you put on a coat of sealer over it. you’ll have to go lightly and quickly or you will remove the stain you just applied . Another way is to take a small amount of finish and mix in some stain and apply that to darken an area.
Hi, did you do the bottom also? I want to do this for an outside table that is by the beach. Thanks for the video 😀
Yes, the bottom must be done to prevent moisture from getting into the wood. Once the wood gets damp the sun will pull the moisture to the surface causing the finish to peal. Blair
Mr. Hardware thanks Blair. Much Appreciated
Can you use a pore filler before using this for like mahogany?
Of course, but I would like a thinned coat of sealer first, then the grain filler, then the finish coats.
@@MrHardware1 What product would you recommend for the grain filler if the wood is exterior, like an exterior facing door? Every product I've searched looks to be water-based and when I contact the company they say for interior use only, even with a Spar Varnish finish. Even Old Masters told me their oil-based Old Masters Woodgrain Filler is for interior only. Feeling lost.
@@slappy1965 I would pre-seal the door with a thinned spar varnish, then use the Old Masters filler. Then seal that with a coat or 2 with the thinned spar before coating with a coat of un-thinned spar.
How thin for the first seal coat of spar? Same ratio for the 2nd and 3rd?
@@slappy1965 about 10 to 15% thinner, enough to make the spar thin like 2% milk.
what type finish can I use on children wood toys and be safe
it is difficult to get any manufacturer to call any varnish or paint safe or food grade. Usually once it is cured, about 5 days, it is non toxic but nobody will claim that. Darn lawyers
is this water based varnish ?
No, it is oil-based, so I thin it with paint thinner (mineral spirits) to make the first coat or 2 penetrate deeper into the wood for better ’grab’.
@@MrHardware1 Thank you very much !
I am planning to apply tung oil on my red cedar picnic table . 3 years ago I (unwisely) applied polyurethane and now it has totally faded. I would like your advice . Thanks
We sell a 50% linseed deck finish for picnic tables if you can live with a live grain wood surface. Wash it with oxyclean and recoat every 4 years. Almost maintenance free. It is called KushGuard and manufactured by Kush Paint in Roseville Mi. Call and they can ship, 586-293-4545
Does anyone know if you can use it over gel stain on a front door? Thank you ❤️
Yes, it does go over gel stain and wiping stains. Make sure they have cured so the oil-based spar does not liquify the stain and start moving it around.
@@blairgilbert7606 thank you so much. It had leaked sap in a certain area so I had painted it with the paint stain but wanted to try a different color.
I am even going to try this on a metal frame of glass cabinet. I had already primed it for regular paint but apparently that doesn't matter.
I applied this product at 50° and it is still tacky after four days. What should I do?
@@slappy1965 is it possible to bring it in the house? It will cure and harden probably w/out any issues other than accumulating dust until it gets hard enough. I have some old quartz construction lights that get incredibly hot that I’ve placed a safe distance from a project to cure it out. Be very cautious about starting a fire, check the temp of your project every hour when doing something like this. Any heater left unattended is ALWAYS a potential for fire.
@ unfortunately no because the smell gives my wife a headache. It has been over a week now and still tacky in the garage. Temps are supposed to be 30s-40s for the next couple weeks. I’m doomed. Not to mention the door isn’t protecting the primary 100 year old beautiful Oak door.
@@slappy1965 how about an electric space heater placed 6’ in front of the project?
Can I apply exterior spar varnish over interior poly? I want to concert an indoor dining set to outdoor use
A problem could arise because once moisture gets into the wood of the table the sun may pull it through the finish and ruin it all. The first coats of exterior should be thinned for better penetration, the inter finish was probably applied quickly and without need for penetration.
Better - 1gal mineral spirits - 1 pint boiled linseed oil - 4oz melted paraffin wax
I’m looking at this and have tried it. Leaves a film of wax though. Do you just buff it up?
How long did you wait between coats? The product I have says 16 hours, but could I apply before then if I felt it was absorbed well enough?
Usually the first coat drys within 6 hours on bare wood. After that I wait 12 hours, however it is cold or damp it can take longer.
Would you recommend this product, or any oil-based sealant, on wood chairs that have been painted with exterior latex paint?
No, to protect exterior latex paint I use a 'water born' exterior latex Spar Varnish. I believe we sell Old Masters brand. I like to keep 'water born' products together, latex paint, latex spar varnish. Also oil products will add a 'yellow, amber' hue over the base colors.
Thank you!
Does the product darken up the wood (contain some type of tung,linseed, etc oil) or is that a natural characteristic of the varnish in general?
Most all oil based varnishes darken and amber up the wood color in varying degrees, as far as I know only water born finishes don't amber up the color.