"AvE's TH-cam Limericks for instant demonetization" I'm pretty sure with a little creative help this could get made. I'd buy a book full of dirty sayings and awfully improper language/pictures simply to cause a raucous when the in-laws check out my coffee table books on Thanksgiving. "History, Nature, Science.. Oh what's this one.. cunthairs? what???"
Ive been using an early 90s makita carpenters miter saw that I threw a black metal blade in for a few years now cutting steel lol. She still chooches away no problem. Melted the old plastic jiblets on the base but no problem!
Dad was a carpenter growing up and we put a lot of miles on one of those little makita sliding miter saws. He had one small sliding one that he kept on the truck all the time and another big bastard that we would setup at the work site and chain down until the house was built. We were hard on our tools (his tools) but i don't have anything bad to say about the makita tools we used. Dad retired but still has all of his tools and some of the small makita 1/2 handheld drills (probably 20 years old) will still break your wrist before they stall.
Woohoo! Wife bought me the same LS1040 model 12 yrs ago for my birthday. Still works perfectly. Got a Makita 10" 80-tooth carbide blade soon after. Sweet cuts on both aluminum and 2x4s.
This will probably get lost in the comments but I'm a carpenter by trade and do a lot of office fit outs using extruded aluminium partitioning. We have found this saw to be the best. The worst part about cutting aluminium is that it loves to kick back; which doesn't happen as much on this saw compared to all the other sliding mitre saws we've used prior, which is obviously down to the fact that the slide on the other saws introduces much more side-to-side play than the straight drops.
I cut aluminum door thresholds all the time with my makita 10" slider. I lock the slider so it's more of a chop saw and feed it real slow. Does the job quite well.
I'm a industrial maintenance technician for a window manufacturer and we use these saws 1 on the line to cut aluminum screen bar, 2 saws for vinyl snap bead 1 for vinyl scrap saw, and 4 for wood. They were very reliable. The most common problems are the switches get crap in them and need changed every year or so and the push arm bends I change them once a year per saw and mind you it's a industrial manufacturing line and some of these saws go through thousands of cycles between 2 shifts 20 hours a day. The motors almost never go bad. We have one saw that has been on the floor for 5 years. These saws last.
I work as a maintenance tech for a window *blind* manufacturer, and we also use these saws. Do the brakes randomly fail for you? They do all the time for us, and switching out the brushes and the switches never works anymore. Our safety rules require that we switch the saw out anytime the guards stick, or the brakes fail to engage, so its really lame that this happens to all of our heavy use saws.
A tip from one who's learned this the hard way. The plastic base insert can melt (better scenario) or catch fire (worse scenario) if you cut metal to continuously deposit enough hot metal chips. I had the latter scenario and had to extinguish a fire. No major damage because had a way to put out the fire (a full cup of coffee) and I was doing it in my driveway instead of inside my shop where flammables abound. I've since removed the charred remains of my plastic base insert. Obviously, don't use that cloth catch bag, either! Great vid.
The last aluminium fab shop I worked in I fitted all the saws with inline air lubricators, a fitting tapped into the blade housing and a simple contact switch (roller type) on the saw. Soon as you bring the blade down the switch would allow an oil mist to spray onto the blade. We just used inox... Somehow I ended up being the only guy that would refill it.
@@Anguisette they went bankrupt about 1 year after I left, just poor management. I saw the writing on the wall and left for other things (oil&gas $$$) and now my own job shop.
Right! I used to work in an aluminum fab shop...cut 3"X3" 6063 anodized extrusions all day for weeks at a time...Makita 10" Chop saw, used Micro-Drop mist...never changed that blade in 4 years...Later, I had 2 Makitas...one set up for a different shaped anodized extrusion, made 1,000's of cuts daily, as fast as I could move the material...both used the 'mister'...and never changed (or sharpened) the blades in either saw...
I too have one of these saws and can confirm the general indestructibility, I lost the safety button fairly early on and simply wound a fat self-tapper in to make it permanent. I also fitted a slightly larger diameter blade so I could cut 4" finished in one hit. They're great and really accurate once properly set up.
I have the 12" version that usually lives in my woodworking shop, but it's twice been used as a job site saw for building one house and a sizeable workshop. I'm careful with tools, construction folks are not. It's back in my shop and runs perfectly. I started to "tweak it back in" but didn't bother when it cut as squarely as when it left. Great chop saw.
We used one for years for aluminum and brass, use a 100 tooth blade with bee's wax for a cutting lube, if it plugs a tooth you will know, use a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out and back to cutting. I have cut 3" solid aluminum bar stock on one just use lots of wax.
Another great video. I've had the compound sliding version of this saw for 15 years. I got it from my father who was a cabinet maker and used this saw since the late 80's. I have personally seen 3 thousand board feet of oak, birch, and maple run though that saw and it never gave up the ghost! I also used it to cut the aluminum to fabricobble my Tig welding cart. At least the build quality of this saw hasn't changed in 30 years! The two best things my father gave me before he left this shitty world: #1 words to live by " It aint never so bad that it can't get worse" #2 That Makita 10" sliding compound saw! Cheers AVE!
This saw is more than enough for most wood carcase jobs. 4x4 will do in 1 cut, 2x6 will leave a corner, but you can do a zero clearance fixture to raise it. Honestly best saw for your money, no BS, just a solid saw.
A handy tip, If you are cutting any thing with an incorrect blade or rate, 9/11 times (81.81% for those metric folks) if you add a little wax to the blade it will help in cutting and finish. This works well with grinding disks and soft metals as well. bees wax also adds a pleasant smell.
I know a finish carpenter who always cuts a few slices of aluminum with each new blade. He says it 'polishes' the steel blade and makes perfect cuts in thin trim all day long. His work is outstanding.
After working with aluminum extrusions for years, we used to just lower our blade into a wax stick. We eventually moved onto a German made, super high end, electronic type chopsaw with a huge 24 inch blade. You could set the stop electronically to within thousands of an inch, it had pneumatic hold downs for clamping, and it have a drop down shield that created a suction to pull all the chips into a bin. It was pretty bad-ass. Thanks for taking apart this saw and looking into it. I've been looking to replace my current 10 inch saw and this might be what I do it with. Thanks AvE!
Worth having the safety switch on a chop saw, you use the handle to bring the saw down to your mark, at the very least it stops an unexpected launch of the timber if you catch the trigger, I have the same system on my 15 year old ls Makita chop saw and it has worked flawlessly every day, occasionally you lose a button, if you catch it on something but they are pence and easy to get. I think the price is offset by Makita using many of the individual components in other saws, I can see a few common parts between this and my own, I can't say enough about the build quality, I have used mine for 15 years, every day, with the only replacement parts being kerf guides and a couple of buttons- that's it! It ain't new or fancy, it works, accurately, every time. Exactly what you want in a tool you earn your living from!
"Man sparkles" that's a new one there AvE. God damn I'm sure half the audience are here just for the absolute gold that comes out of this gentleman's mouth.
Thanks to this channel i made a whole working makita hr4011c rotary hammer out of two dead ones. One had a totally burnt windings and the rotor was melted cock stiff. The second one had the whole gearbox and hammer bits ground to dust. If shes borked you can't bork her more.
I've bought that saw just over a year ago! Absolutely love it compared to a ryobi and rigid that I've used before. Runs real smooth and starts up with minimal vibration! I've cut aluminum about the size that was in the video with the original blade and got close to a mirror finish. The only thing that I don't like about it is that the tilt lock handle hits the dust outlet and "A" makes putting on the bag harder and "B" it's never tight enough and you can still tilt it at the tightest
I bought the LS1040 in 2009. Build my house with it and even cut fire wood (including some nails) with it. Absolutly worth the money! The motor has a real high starting current so I had to install other breakers with a higher trigger current then what is normally installed in private homes here in Germany.
Had this model (1040) in my “cart” since last weekend trying to decide if this was the best choice. Always had great experience with Makita, actually have a portable 3/8” drill that wife purchased for me probably 25 years ago. Batteries JUST (earlier this year) wore out and had to replace. Drill still runs great! Once you took apart the drive mechanism and showed the gear assembly I went and ordered it from my cart! Thanks Hoser
Well what the heck man, you cut out the best parts 18:33 - 18:56 Still love the content AvE! As an engineering student, I have been learning more information about the details of machine design and design for manufacturing than from my classes. Maybe tearing apart machines to examine the build quality/choices should be a Lab class?
I think so. My ex girlfriend was a mechanical engineer with a masters degree, working at an oil refinery, and I'm just a pleb technician with no formal education at all. When it came down to it, I had a far better understanding of this kind of thing than she did because my knowledge was hands on, hers was theoretical. Engineers can benifit hugely from getting their hands in there, and looking at the guts of a machine. You should suggest it to whoever is running your class. If nothing else it will keep people interested. Only so much maths you can do before you get bored out of your skull. I've seen a few engineering types saying they use AvE's vids for educational purposes which is absolutely amazing lol. Imagine sitting in class listening to this guy, with all his idiosyncratic language. It would be hilarious.
I have worked at two Makita authorized service centers. At 11:00 that is not a thermal overload. That is one of the windings for the brake. Since it is such a thin gauge wire they put extra protection on it. You can see on either side of the field that there are windings of much thinner gauge copper. That would be your brake winding. The problem with the motor housing being one piece is that you cannot get a commutator stone in there when you change the brushes. You just have to let her spark and wear the brushes in on its own, which is not a good thing due to the excess heat. We prefer the motor housings with the end caps, which give you a way to use the stones to seat the brushes. Haha! At the end I was about to mention the blade lock laying there, feeling neglected! Not a bad saw. Not as good as the LS1013 was, but still worth its weight in Canuckistanni Pesos!
by far my fav channel every night before I crash I watch your videos certified aircraft mechanic here I always learn something new from ya thanks for taking the time making good honest content !
I rip up to 1/4 inch aluminum plate on a Bosch table saw. Slow and steady with a lot of face protection. Got the idea from a guy who built aluminum semi trailers for a living.
Here in NZ most tradesman go for Makita. My dad went for Dewalt and they seemed great until they fucked out. His cordless Dewalt framing gun especially. When that fucked out he was told replacing the part would cost as much as a new one. It was not a cheap tool. I don't trust anything but Makita now.
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for all the videos just jam packed with knowledge! Your videos gave me some bits of information that came in handy in an interview for an engineering tech position at a very large hydrostatics company. Just want to give credit where its due. You definitely helped me get this job.
LS1030 and LS1040. I've been using these saws for over 15 yrs on a daily basis making hundreds of cuts per day. All aluminum frame and extrusions. Only problems I've had came about from my own boneheadedness.
I have seen and had to deal with split washers that work, removing this 1 inch bolt was hell, the washer took a 1/16 inch chip around the mating face and it sure as hell kept the bolt tight for a turn or two. They can really work!
i use a 10" cryobi mitre for doing hardwood and laminate installs, works good for the $70 i paid. Been watching your stuff for a while now and i love it. Thanks man i learned alot :D
It has been my experience that the safety devices can sometimes get you hurt faster than not having it! I love the "not being a bone head" comment, I feel like that is the best safety feature in the world. I am not saying it is a good idea to get rid of all of the safety stuff, some of it is there for a good reason, but the premature ejaculation things have to go on most tools! I almost fell out of a 50 tower on a yacht because of being distracted by the stupid trigger safety interlock thing.
I bought one of the first of these to hit Van. Isle. many moons ago, 60 T. blade ta boot. It's first workout was at a fish hatchery with 75 employees, I was contracted there working with wood and 2" Alum. angle. Noon the first day the manager invited me for lunch and we were gone an hour. On my return to work I found someone had tried to use my new saw, for wrapped around the blade was a 16" pcs. of 14Ga.,1/8 spacing SS wire mesh. This attempt had launched 18 teeth from the blade, thankfully nobody had reported to Fist Aid. I examined the saw carefully and no where was there a warning label not to cut this material, another corporate failure. Had to share this, cheers, Billy in Ladysmith.
Ahhh Bondhus Allen keys/socket cap wrenches. I really like those. Used them for a good few years and other than the black coating being worn away you wouldn’t know they’d been used. Great quality keys.
I have one that has been flawless for what I need, for going on thirty years. Out in the weather with sometimes a tarp thrown over, the damn thing will not die. About the same price too. They know how to build a quality tool, and in this case do it scookum.
I have the older version of this saw. I use it almost everyday. Its old enough to have red handle and housing cover. Performed the safety switch delete also.
I still use a Makita chop saw from the early 90's. The only repair I had to do what the trigger was sticking. Took the trigger switch apart cleaned the burn marks and flipped it around. works like new.
I have the 1980s version of that saw. Cast iron base, heavier than a sorority. sister's soul doing the walk of shame. Cuts great, even aluminum structural stuff. Carbide for wood is good for aluminium. Even router bits.
Does the 200 lb gorilla fancy a little confuser gaming on the down low, or was he just in search of the loudest, clickiest typing apparatus with which to annoy co-workers, frienamies, and family?
@@BlackEpyon you over paid, my friend. If you don't need any fancy features, you can get a decent mechanical for $40 on le interwebs. Not actual cherry switches (knockoffs), but they feel the same and they seem to be reliable.
IBM PC AT model F keyboard. Ultra clicky keys in a 10lb cast zinc body. When you absolutely, positively, gotta annoy everyone in the building, accept no substitute.
You mentioned close calls cutting aluminium. Reminded me of the time I tried cutting some with a dual-saw and it kicked back and went right over the back of my hand. Miraculously it only cut my glove open and I came out with a scratch.
Once visited a metal shop in the nearby harbour. They had converted an old lumber mill circular saw (at least 5ft diameter) to cut extruded aluminium protective corners used in cargo fastening. The noise it made was insane, I could hear it cutting a kilometer away in the noisy old truck i was driving through the wind. And the damn thing was indoors. Everyone in the shop including the people working in the office wore double hearing protection during the days they ran the damn thing. I was quite happy to leave the joint ASAP.
I got the compound sliding Makita miter saw with the super duper exclusive 7 1/2" blade. Does real good for anything 2x, and thank christ it's got some adjustment so a regular 7 1/4 blade will do fine.
1:14 That moment you hear a Kanuk talkin' about "freedomizing" his posessions, lol . . . GLORIOUS. I don't even need to know his plan, I'm already on board, lol . . .
I've had one of these, bought it more than 35 years ago. Good tool. About ten years ago I gave it up because the brake stopped working (dumb, I shoulda fixed it). Maybe Makita is still making them so well because it's less expensive to just keep doing the same good thing, rather then retool to make it cheap. Epoxy, overheating? Based on my experience, these will never become a problem. Accuracy, precision? Close enough for door trim, a picture framing shop would want to buy something else.
Oh thank the lord... I've been waiting 2 years for you to refer to something as being made from "prefamulated amulite". Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
I use this saw for Aluminium everyday. Works alright, but the brushes stop working as a saw brake pretty fast. I also use one for wood. Kinda small but works fine for my use.
Glad to see Makita are still (or are back to?) making solid products, there was a period in time where I was starting to wonder if they too were going to shit. As a much younger lad, 25 odd years ago, I watched a then 5 year old Makita hammer drill (the half aluminium, half plastic looking job, with no reverse) get run over by a payloader that would have been in the region of 5 tonne minimum. 6 weeks later, with just a new trigger, she was chooching again. Only catch is, in the downtime, my parents bought another of the same model to keep working on the site. Now normally it's not a problem - but the caveat is that if'n you stick an 12 inch long drill in the traffic accident victim, there's just enough speed wobble to shake your fillings out. Understandable, I feel, given the circumstances - the problem is there's no way to tell them apart until you put the drill bit in and spin it up.... The reason most of my power tools bought to see frequent use are the higher priced teal should be fairly apparent. On a side note, the lack of reverse on the old drills is a pain - I'd forgotten that reversing drills weren't really that common 25 years ago, and when you get the bastard jammed boring through ancient hardwood, you really wish you had reverse while the things trying to spin you around. Sent from my Cherry Blue powered keyboard...
I use this exact saw to install hardwood floors, when you gotta park a block away from the job site and carry your equipment up 3 flights of stairs you want a small light durable saw.
"All tongue and groove, not a stud in sight". Lol! AvE, you should write a book. I'm sure it would sell out. Even if there were more than 10 copies.
*Even if it had only two pages. :P
Even if those 2 pages are stuck together. :-P
"AvE's TH-cam Limericks for instant demonetization" I'm pretty sure with a little creative help this could get made. I'd buy a book full of dirty sayings and awfully improper language/pictures simply to cause a raucous when the in-laws check out my coffee table books on Thanksgiving. "History, Nature, Science.. Oh what's this one.. cunthairs? what???"
LOL YES!!
I'd buy one, though I want a coffee cup stain on the cover, and maybe beer stain somewhere inside the book ;p
My grandfather used one of these mitre saws for woodworking until the day he died working in his shop. Love you grandpa, R.I.P.
Buddy! You cut the content we came for!
Please upload that as a seperate episode!
This gonard short-changed me
What content
got fucking blue balls from that bait and switch :/
Came down to the comments to say this. Love when he just goes on about stuff.
She offered her honor.
He honored her offer.
And all night long,
He was on 'er and off 'er.
We're all just poets here 10/10 👏
an if ya can't come in 'er
come on 'er
I can smell the whisky burnin' down Copperhead Road. But it's a Canuckistan blend and not a Kentucky bourbon.
@@D0NtPh34rTh3R34p3R Needs more cowbell
@@Xormithan I may not always give a woman an orgasm... but when I do, she usually spits it out...
Ive been using an early 90s makita carpenters miter saw that I threw a black metal blade in for a few years now cutting steel lol. She still chooches away no problem. Melted the old plastic jiblets on the base but no problem!
Can u get the missing footage where u ramble please
That's for the patreons
Dad was a carpenter growing up and we put a lot of miles on one of those little makita sliding miter saws. He had one small sliding one that he kept on the truck all the time and another big bastard that we would setup at the work site and chain down until the house was built. We were hard on our tools (his tools) but i don't have anything bad to say about the makita tools we used. Dad retired but still has all of his tools and some of the small makita 1/2 handheld drills (probably 20 years old) will still break your wrist before they stall.
These saws are a beast! They are the workhorses of my business. I am a trim carpenter, and at least 80% of my cuts are made with this saw.
Woohoo! Wife bought me the same LS1040 model 12 yrs ago for my birthday. Still works perfectly.
Got a Makita 10" 80-tooth carbide blade soon after. Sweet cuts on both aluminum and 2x4s.
TheElectricSam thank you for mentioning the model number. No one else including the ave did lol
This will probably get lost in the comments but I'm a carpenter by trade and do a lot of office fit outs using extruded aluminium partitioning. We have found this saw to be the best. The worst part about cutting aluminium is that it loves to kick back; which doesn't happen as much on this saw compared to all the other sliding mitre saws we've used prior, which is obviously down to the fact that the slide on the other saws introduces much more side-to-side play than the straight drops.
I cut aluminum door thresholds all the time with my makita 10" slider. I lock the slider so it's more of a chop saw and feed it real slow. Does the job quite well.
I'm a industrial maintenance technician for a window manufacturer and we use these saws 1 on the line to cut aluminum screen bar, 2 saws for vinyl snap bead 1 for vinyl scrap saw, and 4 for wood. They were very reliable. The most common problems are the switches get crap in them and need changed every year or so and the push arm bends I change them once a year per saw and mind you it's a industrial manufacturing line and some of these saws go through thousands of cycles between 2 shifts 20 hours a day. The motors almost never go bad. We have one saw that has been on the floor for 5 years. These saws last.
I work as a maintenance tech for a window *blind* manufacturer, and we also use these saws. Do the brakes randomly fail for you? They do all the time for us, and switching out the brushes and the switches never works anymore. Our safety rules require that we switch the saw out anytime the guards stick, or the brakes fail to engage, so its really lame that this happens to all of our heavy use saws.
A tip from one who's learned this the hard way. The plastic base insert can melt (better scenario) or catch fire (worse scenario) if you cut metal to continuously deposit enough hot metal chips. I had the latter scenario and had to extinguish a fire. No major damage because had a way to put out the fire (a full cup of coffee) and I was doing it in my driveway instead of inside my shop where flammables abound. I've since removed the charred remains of my plastic base insert. Obviously, don't use that cloth catch bag, either! Great vid.
remember that scene in Forest Gump where Bubba wouldn't shut up about Aluminum?
And i wanna listen all about it, including about the steamed aluminum, the spicy aluminum, the grilled aluminum and all.
lets hope it ends better with bubba this time...
aluminium etouffee, aluminium gumbo... scalloped aluminium...
Aluminium Teriyaki, Pulled Aluminium...
Aluminium-stuffed Aluminium...
The last aluminium fab shop I worked in I fitted all the saws with inline air lubricators, a fitting tapped into the blade housing and a simple contact switch (roller type) on the saw.
Soon as you bring the blade down the switch would allow an oil mist to spray onto the blade. We just used inox... Somehow I ended up being the only guy that would refill it.
That makes you the most important guy in the shop. I wonder how badly the place fell apart after you moved on?
@@Anguisette they went bankrupt about 1 year after I left, just poor management.
I saw the writing on the wall and left for other things (oil&gas $$$) and now my own job shop.
Right! I used to work in an aluminum fab shop...cut 3"X3" 6063 anodized extrusions all day for weeks at a time...Makita 10" Chop saw, used Micro-Drop mist...never changed that blade in 4 years...Later, I had 2 Makitas...one set up for a different shaped anodized extrusion, made 1,000's of cuts daily, as fast as I could move the material...both used the 'mister'...and never changed (or sharpened) the blades in either saw...
I too have one of these saws and can confirm the general indestructibility, I lost the safety button fairly early on and simply wound a fat self-tapper in to make it permanent. I also fitted a slightly larger diameter blade so I could cut 4" finished in one hit. They're great and really accurate once properly set up.
I have the 12" version that usually lives in my woodworking shop, but it's twice been used as a job site saw for building one house and a sizeable workshop. I'm careful with tools, construction folks are not. It's back in my shop and runs perfectly. I started to "tweak it back in" but didn't bother when it cut as squarely as when it left. Great chop saw.
We used one for years for aluminum and brass, use a 100 tooth blade with bee's wax for a cutting lube, if it plugs a tooth you will know, use a pair of needle nose pliers to get it out and back to cutting. I have cut 3" solid aluminum bar stock on one just use lots of wax.
Can’t. Stop. Watching. These. Videos.
Used one to make aluminium secondary glazing for 25 years. Quick squirt of silicone spray on the blade, clean as a whistle, perfect mitres every time.
Quality job of securing those field windings. A lot of folks don't realize the field windings react all of the shaft torque of the motor.
Another great video. I've had the compound sliding version of this saw for 15 years. I got it from my father who was a cabinet maker and used this saw since the late 80's. I have personally seen 3 thousand board feet of oak, birch, and maple run though that saw and it never gave up the ghost! I also used it to cut the aluminum to fabricobble my Tig welding cart. At least the build quality of this saw hasn't changed in 30 years! The two best things my father gave me before he left this shitty world: #1 words to live by " It aint never so bad that it can't get worse" #2 That Makita 10" sliding compound saw! Cheers AVE!
This saw is more than enough for most wood carcase jobs. 4x4 will do in 1 cut, 2x6 will leave a corner, but you can do a zero clearance fixture to raise it. Honestly best saw for your money, no BS, just a solid saw.
My old man has one of these saws. Had it for years, abused it and is never had any problems. Proper good tool.
A handy tip, If you are cutting any thing with an incorrect blade or rate, 9/11 times (81.81% for those metric folks) if you add a little wax to the blade it will help in cutting and finish. This works well with grinding disks and soft metals as well. bees wax also adds a pleasant smell.
I know a finish carpenter who always cuts a few slices of aluminum with each new blade. He says it 'polishes' the steel blade and makes perfect cuts in thin trim all day long. His work is outstanding.
+1 for Makita. Every Makita tool I have ever owned has served me well with a wink and a smile.
After working with aluminum extrusions for years, we used to just lower our blade into a wax stick. We eventually moved onto a German made, super high end, electronic type chopsaw with a huge 24 inch blade. You could set the stop electronically to within thousands of an inch, it had pneumatic hold downs for clamping, and it have a drop down shield that created a suction to pull all the chips into a bin. It was pretty bad-ass.
Thanks for taking apart this saw and looking into it. I've been looking to replace my current 10 inch saw and this might be what I do it with.
Thanks AvE!
Worth having the safety switch on a chop saw, you use the handle to bring the saw down to your mark, at the very least it stops an unexpected launch of the timber if you catch the trigger, I have the same system on my 15 year old ls Makita chop saw and it has worked flawlessly every day, occasionally you lose a button, if you catch it on something but they are pence and easy to get.
I think the price is offset by Makita using many of the individual components in other saws, I can see a few common parts between this and my own, I can't say enough about the build quality, I have used mine for 15 years, every day, with the only replacement parts being kerf guides and a couple of buttons- that's it!
It ain't new or fancy, it works, accurately, every time. Exactly what you want in a tool you earn your living from!
Man sparkles!
Wow, you're almost at one million subscribers. Well deserved
"Man sparkles" that's a new one there AvE. God damn I'm sure half the audience are here just for the absolute gold that comes out of this gentleman's mouth.
Thanks to this channel i made a whole working makita hr4011c rotary hammer out of two dead ones. One had a totally burnt windings and the rotor was melted cock stiff. The second one had the whole gearbox and hammer bits ground to dust. If shes borked you can't bork her more.
Clean up the man sparkles or you'll have a unicorn infestation.
bottle 'em up, sprinkle them on your hot cocoa!
Correction: free range chicken.
I've bought that saw just over a year ago! Absolutely love it compared to a ryobi and rigid that I've used before. Runs real smooth and starts up with minimal vibration! I've cut aluminum about the size that was in the video with the original blade and got close to a mirror finish. The only thing that I don't like about it is that the tilt lock handle hits the dust outlet and "A" makes putting on the bag harder and "B" it's never tight enough and you can still tilt it at the tightest
The reverb in that space gives your voice such bravado. I do declare, it's giving me the vapors!
My wife brought home a 10" Makita Power Miter saw in 1982. She only used it for building the house. Now I mostly use it for my gee projects.
It's so kind of that saw to tell you which way to turn the bolt to release the blade. I learned that lesson the hard way.
I bought the LS1040 in 2009. Build my house with it and even cut fire wood (including some nails) with it.
Absolutly worth the money! The motor has a real high starting current so I had to install other breakers with a higher trigger current then what is normally installed in private homes here in Germany.
Had this model (1040) in my “cart” since last weekend trying to decide if this was the best choice. Always had great experience with Makita, actually have a portable 3/8” drill that wife purchased for me probably 25 years ago. Batteries JUST (earlier this year) wore out and had to replace. Drill still runs great! Once you took apart the drive mechanism and showed the gear assembly I went and ordered it from my cart! Thanks Hoser
Can you hear my MX Blues all the way in Kanuckistan?
Sorry, can't hear you over the clack of my Model M.
What were you saying, I was lost in the enjoyment of the Matias Click Switches.
Oh look, the obligatory Russian troll trying his hardest to sow discord in our everyday lives over trivial matters of no importance.
Just compromise and get MX Brown, they don't rupture your ear canals but you still feel them =)
Well what the heck man, you cut out the best parts 18:33 - 18:56
Still love the content AvE! As an engineering student, I have been learning more information about the details of machine design and design for manufacturing than from my classes. Maybe tearing apart machines to examine the build quality/choices should be a Lab class?
I think so. My ex girlfriend was a mechanical engineer with a masters degree, working at an oil refinery, and I'm just a pleb technician with no formal education at all. When it came down to it, I had a far better understanding of this kind of thing than she did because my knowledge was hands on, hers was theoretical. Engineers can benifit hugely from getting their hands in there, and looking at the guts of a machine. You should suggest it to whoever is running your class. If nothing else it will keep people interested. Only so much maths you can do before you get bored out of your skull. I've seen a few engineering types saying they use AvE's vids for educational purposes which is absolutely amazing lol. Imagine sitting in class listening to this guy, with all his idiosyncratic language. It would be hilarious.
I have worked at two Makita authorized service centers. At 11:00 that is not a thermal overload. That is one of the windings for the brake. Since it is such a thin gauge wire they put extra protection on it. You can see on either side of the field that there are windings of much thinner gauge copper. That would be your brake winding.
The problem with the motor housing being one piece is that you cannot get a commutator stone in there when you change the brushes. You just have to let her spark and wear the brushes in on its own, which is not a good thing due to the excess heat. We prefer the motor housings with the end caps, which give you a way to use the stones to seat the brushes.
Haha! At the end I was about to mention the blade lock laying there, feeling neglected! Not a bad saw. Not as good as the LS1013 was, but still worth its weight in Canuckistanni Pesos!
by far my fav channel every night before I crash I watch your videos certified aircraft mechanic here I always learn something new from ya thanks for taking the time making good honest content !
Same saw we use at work. We cut aluminum on it all the time. Works like a dream.
God damn, Makita's got it goin on. Nice to see the details of the build quality. Thank you so much Boltr, AvE, AvE, AvE!
I want to hear all about aluminum. Give us the full three inches.
Juan Herrero it’s occupied in the vice right now!
The thing is, I suspect he's a closet Brit, using the 'i' in the metal, like all the metals including platinium. Canadian, mayhap?
@@suntexi Canadian, he's mentioned it in previous vids and also mentioned the aluminum/aluminium thing
@@kamryngray5474 I've not seen previous vids. I'm beginning to notice the subtle difference between the Canadians' speech and the Mercans'.
@@suntexi believe me...it's worth spending a day catching up
I rip up to 1/4 inch aluminum plate on a Bosch table saw. Slow and steady with a lot of face protection. Got the idea from a guy who built aluminum semi trailers for a living.
Come for the Treat Especial, stay for the man sparkles! Yeah, we would like to see the stuff you cut. Always educational, always entertaining.
AvE is the only reason I bought Makita tools.
Here in NZ most tradesman go for Makita. My dad went for Dewalt and they seemed great until they fucked out. His cordless Dewalt framing gun especially. When that fucked out he was told replacing the part would cost as much as a new one. It was not a cheap tool. I don't trust anything but Makita now.
"glass fiber reinforced" is the most common 3 word phrase on this channel and its great
I picked up it’s cousin a slider always wanted it got it off of market place good price works great awesome job as always be safe out there
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for all the videos just jam packed with knowledge! Your videos gave me some bits of information that came in handy in an interview for an engineering tech position at a very large hydrostatics company. Just want to give credit where its due. You definitely helped me get this job.
LS1030 and LS1040. I've been using these saws for over 15 yrs on a daily basis making hundreds of cuts per day. All aluminum frame and extrusions. Only problems I've had came about from my own boneheadedness.
I have seen and had to deal with split washers that work, removing this 1 inch bolt was hell, the washer took a 1/16 inch chip around the mating face and it sure as hell kept the bolt tight for a turn or two. They can really work!
i use a 10" cryobi mitre for doing hardwood and laminate installs, works good for the $70 i paid. Been watching your stuff for a while now and i love it. Thanks man i learned alot :D
"In theft-deterrent teal". Feaking hilarious!!
It has been my experience that the safety devices can sometimes get you hurt faster than not having it! I love the "not being a bone head" comment, I feel like that is the best safety feature in the world. I am not saying it is a good idea to get rid of all of the safety stuff, some of it is there for a good reason, but the premature ejaculation things have to go on most tools! I almost fell out of a 50 tower on a yacht because of being distracted by the stupid trigger safety interlock thing.
I bought one of the first of these to hit Van. Isle. many moons ago, 60 T. blade ta boot. It's first workout was at a fish hatchery with 75 employees, I was contracted there working with wood and 2" Alum. angle. Noon the first day the manager invited me for lunch and we were gone an hour. On my return to work I found someone had tried to use my new saw, for wrapped around the blade was a 16" pcs. of 14Ga.,1/8 spacing SS wire mesh. This attempt had launched 18 teeth from the blade, thankfully nobody had reported to Fist Aid. I examined the saw carefully and no where was there a warning label not to cut this material, another corporate failure. Had to share this, cheers, Billy in Ladysmith.
We need a AvE shirt with the words "Man Sparkles" on it.
Your banter makes a bad day good thank you
Ahhh Bondhus Allen keys/socket cap wrenches. I really like those. Used them for a good few years and other than the black coating being worn away you wouldn’t know they’d been used. Great quality keys.
This video deserves a like for the uncle's talk on trigger discipline alone!
I have one that has been flawless for what I need, for going on thirty years. Out in the weather with sometimes a tarp thrown over, the damn thing will not die. About the same price too. They know how to build a quality tool, and in this case do it scookum.
I have the older version of this saw. I use it almost everyday. Its old enough to have red handle and housing cover. Performed the safety switch delete also.
Which blade did you use for cutting Aluminimium?
I still use a Makita chop saw from the early 90's. The only repair I had to do what the trigger was sticking. Took the trigger switch apart cleaned the burn marks and flipped it around. works like new.
Never speak negatively of a woman that likes to work wood.
@@BlackEpyon Given his normal disdain for anything wood, she either came that way, or her being 'bad' works for him.
My wife knows how to use power tools. I’m proud of her!
@@notajp My gf is not so keen on the power tools, but is quite happy to lay her own concrete slabs.
or work wood!
Your entendres remain undetected...
Man, I'm actually pretty tempted to go grab one now.
Me too, and I don't even need one.
I have the 1980s version of that saw. Cast iron base, heavier than a sorority. sister's soul doing the walk of shame. Cuts great, even aluminum structural stuff. Carbide for wood is good for aluminium. Even router bits.
Hilariously therapeutic and mucho educational. This is my cancer recovery channel.
Does the 200 lb gorilla fancy a little confuser gaming on the down low, or was he just in search of the loudest, clickiest typing apparatus with which to annoy co-workers, frienamies, and family?
you know hes all about being the loudest and clickiest
Friends don't let friends game on blues.
@@BlackEpyon you over paid, my friend. If you don't need any fancy features, you can get a decent mechanical for $40 on le interwebs. Not actual cherry switches (knockoffs), but they feel the same and they seem to be reliable.
IBM PC AT model F keyboard. Ultra clicky keys in a 10lb cast zinc body. When you absolutely, positively, gotta annoy everyone in the building, accept no substitute.
@@slateslavens I just looked up the model F, and Wikipedia even includes a sound clip of it XD
The "fuck it bucket" - I love it. Learn some new lingo every day @AvE
i finally got one of his references! Got that 'prefamulated amulite' so fitted to the lunar want shaft to effectively prevent side-fumbling
Never would have thought AVE would know anything about mechanical keyboards.
If you go to cutting any thicker stock 2-3", A quick squirt on the side of the blade will keep your D-40 lube in the cut longer.
My work area is the only one with this saw able to cut metal. Nothing wakes you up more than coworkers hastily cutting some aluminum rebar.
I was not expecting a Cherry reference from you for some reason. Thumbs up for preferring blues!
You mentioned close calls cutting aluminium. Reminded me of the time I tried cutting some with a dual-saw and it kicked back and went right over the back of my hand. Miraculously it only cut my glove open and I came out with a scratch.
Once visited a metal shop in the nearby harbour. They had converted an old lumber mill circular saw (at least 5ft diameter) to cut extruded aluminium protective corners used in cargo fastening. The noise it made was insane, I could hear it cutting a kilometer away in the noisy old truck i was driving through the wind. And the damn thing was indoors. Everyone in the shop including the people working in the office wore double hearing protection during the days they ran the damn thing. I was quite happy to leave the joint ASAP.
I got the compound sliding Makita miter saw with the super duper exclusive 7 1/2" blade. Does real good for anything 2x, and thank christ it's got some adjustment so a regular 7 1/4 blade will do fine.
1:14 That moment you hear a Kanuk talkin' about "freedomizing" his posessions, lol . . . GLORIOUS. I don't even need to know his plan, I'm already on board, lol . . .
I've had one of these, bought it more than 35 years ago. Good tool. About ten years ago I gave it up because the brake stopped working (dumb, I shoulda fixed it). Maybe Makita is still making them so well because it's less expensive to just keep doing the same good thing, rather then retool to make it cheap.
Epoxy, overheating? Based on my experience, these will never become a problem. Accuracy, precision? Close enough for door trim, a picture framing shop would want to buy something else.
Study for Calc test - vs - Watch new AVE upload... Well I'm here in the comments, so I guess it's obvious which one won.
statics test here... Though he did talk about deflection and such so that counts as studying right?
Are you guys me? Have statics, materials science, and calc 3 today... Yet here I am
As long as you all are getting you sh*t done.
My calc grade suffers because of this man plus Tony and abom.
That is one well built saw right there, and for the price I'm sure nothing even comes close quality wise.
Man Sparkles! the best, love it, keeping it, using it and gonna train others
Oh thank the lord... I've been waiting 2 years for you to refer to something as being made from "prefamulated amulite". Thank you, thank you, thank you!!
I like cherry browns. Not quite as noisy when you put some pressure on them, but if you really move your fingers fast you get a great response.
I found out this weekend cutting aluminum works much better if you put the blade on forwards.
In a circular saw, with thin stock (soffit install) backward is the only way.
I use this saw for Aluminium everyday. Works alright, but the brushes stop working as a saw brake pretty fast. I also use one for wood. Kinda small but works fine for my use.
Been in need of a good BOLTR
I have experienced the 4 micron low earth orbit first hand! That's when I built a surround shroud for my miter saw!
I've had one of those saws for 10 years and have cut aluminum and even beach rock with diamond blade. Cant killit
I love coming here to learn.
Glad to see Makita are still (or are back to?) making solid products, there was a period in time where I was starting to wonder if they too were going to shit.
As a much younger lad, 25 odd years ago, I watched a then 5 year old Makita hammer drill (the half aluminium, half plastic looking job, with no reverse) get run over by a payloader that would have been in the region of 5 tonne minimum. 6 weeks later, with just a new trigger, she was chooching again. Only catch is, in the downtime, my parents bought another of the same model to keep working on the site. Now normally it's not a problem - but the caveat is that if'n you stick an 12 inch long drill in the traffic accident victim, there's just enough speed wobble to shake your fillings out. Understandable, I feel, given the circumstances - the problem is there's no way to tell them apart until you put the drill bit in and spin it up....
The reason most of my power tools bought to see frequent use are the higher priced teal should be fairly apparent.
On a side note, the lack of reverse on the old drills is a pain - I'd forgotten that reversing drills weren't really that common 25 years ago, and when you get the bastard jammed boring through ancient hardwood, you really wish you had reverse while the things trying to spin you around.
Sent from my Cherry Blue powered keyboard...
I've been a makita fan (at least their saws)for years I have 7.25 in saws that have been used and abused daily for 10 years.
I love your vidyas brother and your language has infected my everyday life and my friends have started using it as well... love it!
I use this exact saw to install hardwood floors, when you gotta park a block away from the job site and carry your equipment up 3 flights of stairs you want a small light durable saw.
My dad has had the same style one for 20+ years used n abused and it's still running
You should fabricobble a doodad for to put in the vacated safety hole what for keepin out the tree carcass schmoo from the switch
I was thinkingg the same thing
Could do that wiya titty-bit of HPHT. Plenty schookum for the girls he goes out with.
I second the silly con carne but I think you're fighting a lost cause.
A “test” indicator was the word you were lookin for... thanks for the entertainment!