1) The seal is supposed to go in dry, it has either PTFE or Teflon and putting any lubricant on it during installation will make it leak. (read the instructions) 2) Rear cover needs to be aligned and torqued before the seal goes in..... Yes, putting the seal in the rear cover first can align it automatically, but personally, I would not bet on it considering the work involved in accessing that seal. A $40 tool can save you 8 hours of work to re-do it. 3) It's been my experience that the Fel-Pro seal used here goes in way too easy and I have had them leak even with the proper installation. The O.E.M. ones go in way tighter and don't cost much more. 4) if you are doing the rear main seal and the engine is out, may as well do the front seal and pan gasket too.
Nice advice but I'll keep doing it my way. Not a drop has dripped from any of my rear main jobs and yes you absolutely should use grease or oil as a lubricant when installing rear main
I do them the same way, using the white spacer to align a bit, never an issue - the seal centers itself for the most part. People love useless and needless tools.
When adding any type of lubricant to real main seals whether to the housing or crankshaft, will cause the seal to rotate along with crankshaft even if its minimal; this in turn will allow small amount of oil to leak through. Not my philosophy, but rather experience.
If you are not going to use an alignment tool, you start from the two long bolts first. Read the manual. You snug the bottom two first then tighten the upper 12 bolts. Then torque the bottom two to 106 inch pounds. Then torque the upper 12 bolts to 18-20 lb ft. Hope it doesn’t leak.
Great video. I have a leak coming from mine (possibly) and since I'm having the transmission taken out I figured its the best time to replace it so I'm not being charged double labor time. 06 Impala SS
Old video I realize, but curious if I'm dropping the pan as well to change the gasket can I hold off to hit those two lower rear case cover spots with silicone, so when I do the front timing case and seal I can hit those corners at the same time then throw the pan on??
I have a 03 Burb 5.3 i power wash the bottom cause it's leaking more than usual has 194k it was making some kind of lifter tick i add some blue devil rear main seal fix but only drove it like 30 mins i noticed oil coming by the oil filter on top i think its that plate to the oil pain or the rear main what's crazy is when i put the blue devil in it quite the engine im thinking that my oil pick up tube. O ring wasn't sealing but will see if it stops leaking going to drive until the engine blows if it does lol then i will drop a cam 5.3 in the best engine gm ever made my opinion
Rained pretty good last night and still raining today. Did you send your rain down south to us? Good video. Good luck with your install. Have a great day. Happy Motoring.
1) The seal is supposed to go in dry, it has either PTFE or Teflon and putting any lubricant on it during installation will make it leak. (read the instructions) 2) Rear cover needs to be aligned and torqued before the seal goes in..... Yes, putting the seal in the rear cover first can align it automatically, but personally, I would not bet on it considering the work involved in accessing that seal. A $40 tool can save you 8 hours of work to re-do it. 3) It's been my experience that the Fel-Pro seal used here goes in way too easy and I have had them leak even with the proper installation. The O.E.M. ones go in way tighter and don't cost much more. 4) if you are doing the rear main seal and the engine is out, may as well do the front seal and pan gasket too.
Nice advice but I'll keep doing it my way. Not a drop has dripped from any of my rear main jobs and yes you absolutely should use grease or oil as a lubricant when installing rear main
I do them the same way, using the white spacer to align a bit, never an issue - the seal centers itself for the most part. People love useless and needless tools.
When adding any type of lubricant to real main seals whether to the housing or crankshaft, will cause the seal to rotate along with crankshaft even if its minimal; this in turn will allow small amount of oil to leak through. Not my philosophy, but rather experience.
Yes man finally someone that gets it i have to do mines a third time bcuz od this not aligning tool beter safe than sorry
If you are not going to use an alignment tool, you start from the two long bolts first. Read the manual. You snug the bottom two first then tighten the upper 12 bolts. Then torque the bottom two to 106 inch pounds. Then torque the upper 12 bolts to 18-20 lb ft. Hope it doesn’t leak.
Been together 2 years no leaks
@@NoPaintGarage glad you don’t have a leak.
Great video. I have a leak coming from mine (possibly) and since I'm having the transmission taken out I figured its the best time to replace it so I'm not being charged double labor time. 06 Impala SS
Definitely a good time to do it
don't you spin the motor over a few times to center the cover and seal first and then torque them ?
No, never have. I've got 10k miles on one I did a little over a year ago. No leaks
I too thought there were some techniques to center the seal on the crank more accurately.
Old video I realize, but curious if I'm dropping the pan as well to change the gasket can I hold off to hit those two lower rear case cover spots with silicone, so when I do the front timing case and seal I can hit those corners at the same time then throw the pan on??
Yeah I think you'll be fine
Do you have to change the cover each time or when are you supposed to change the cover
I have reused them before, but I would replace the seals for sure
Are you suppose to center seal housing, w/out seal installed with a centering tool before you tighten housing bolts? Then install oil seal...
No. Just slip it on and torque down. Not my first time doing this
@@NoPaintGarage @ how much will labor cost???
@@gerardolopez5875 I'm not sure. Kind of a big job because the transmission has to come out
@@NoPaintGarage @ tranns or engine!!
@@gerardolopez5875 trans is much easier . Just a few wires, driveshaft, cooler lines , bell housing bolts and torque converter bolts.
Gracias 👍 por su time
I have a 03 Burb 5.3 i power wash the bottom cause it's leaking more than usual has 194k it was making some kind of lifter tick i add some blue devil rear main seal fix but only drove it like 30 mins i noticed oil coming by the oil filter on top i think its that plate to the oil pain or the rear main what's crazy is when i put the blue devil in it quite the engine im thinking that my oil pick up tube. O ring wasn't sealing but will see if it stops leaking going to drive until the engine blows if it does lol then i will drop a cam 5.3 in the best engine gm ever made my opinion
I agree, best engine ever along with the 12 valve cummins
Great video. Thanks for the info.
Very good video thanks you
Glad I could help!
Awesome work 🤘
Thanks!
those rear main seals go in dry no grease, look in manual.
Thanks bro!
Gracias
De nada
Thank u partner.
No problem
Thanks Dean!!
Easier to knock the seal out from the back
Agreed.
After you get the plate off, flip it over and knock the seal out.
Theres a big lip to drive against from the backside.
Good to know
Here I is.
Rained pretty good last night and still raining today. Did you send your rain down south to us?
Good video. Good luck with your install. Have a great day. Happy Motoring.
Haha, yeah I didn't realize how loud the rain was in the video .
Bo
You know absolutely nothing about ls engines you never changed the oil barbell on the left hand bottom goes in the block
Look here idiot, I do things my way . You do what works for you.
@@NoPaintGarage some folks are dicks, just to be dicks! If it works it works! Good video bud!