Another great video Andrew, it's nice tagging along for the ride. Thanks for taking the effort and time to make/edit all the footage. I always enjoy your videos!
Thanks Mark. Glad you like the vids. I hope they help others and it also helps remind me what I did. I'm sure some of my methods might be frowned upon by some more experienced model engineers, but I seem to get there in the end. Cheers Andrew
dear Andrew watched the video saw what you did with the glasses I also wear bifocals ordered a pair arrived next day there fine when first put on felt a bit strange but as the day went on no problems thanks for that tip worked for me
Hi Dave. I'm really glad the glasses worked out OK for you. Yesterday I was doing a lot of DIY stuff and had to go the the builders merchant. I didn't realise I was wearing them driving until I got half way there. Thankfully I didn't walk into the shop with them on! Many thanks for the feedback. All the best. Andrew
I'm looking at my vintage 10V, very finely made and seeing the same angle of the beam to the centerline of the big end. I don't have the drawings, but it does appear the small end is offset a small amount to the large end, looks to be between 1 and 2mm. I can't disassemble this to measure, but my engine was made in the 60's so they have been cast like that for a long time. scratches head*
Interesting! I've just had a look at the drawings and the little end does appear slightly offset from the big end. Something I didn't spot at the time. Strangely the drawing doesn't indicate the amount of offset but the indicated centre position of the big end definitely doesn't appear as being spot on. The mind boggles! Anyway, mine turned out OK in the end. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew. Love the use of 123 blocks to inspect the pressing. Been thinking about a simple jig to hold the strap by the shaft which would become the reference plane for all machining. Have had difficulties with the con rod, which a jig could resolve. Got a lump of 30mm granite kitchen top for £20 and although its pink, in conjunction with a height gauge makes life a little easier. Regards
Thanks Len. I guess the method for machining for the strap and conrod is similar, and a simple jig sounds interesting. If it works out OK please don't hesitste to post a comment so others can see alternative methods. Great value granite! You just need to paint your machines pink to match :-) A surface plate and height gauge made life a lot easier for me. Good luck with the build. Cheers Andrew
I really appreciate your discussing your thought process as you struggle with things such as what appears to be bad castings and other challenges. Could you post the brand of safety glasses that you discussed and possibly a link to where they can be found. I have to wear bi-focals to see well and would like to have a pair of safety glasses that fit so well that I forget that I am wearing them. Thanks again and keep up the spectacular work.
Thanks Robert. Re the safety glasses, I've included some info and a link in the video description. I hope you give the glasses a try and that they work for you. I am definitely well impressed and they are reletavely cheap. Obviously everone is different, but definitely worth a punt. Let me know if you try them and if they are a success. PS I don't have any association with the supplier. Cheers Andrew
Have you spoken with Stuart Models about the two substandard brass castings? They were always good about replacing cast iron castings that were no good.
Hi Mike. In hindsight I maybe should have got back to Stuart. In the end it worked out reasonably well and I try to show it 'warts n all'. All the best. Andrew
@@learningturningmetal One thing you may find useful is next time you have a can of the dark stuff in the fridge snip up various sized bits of the can, they come in useful as thin packing pieces/shims for use supporting work pieces that may flex a little while machining such as when you drilled the top hole in the eccentric arm. I have a jar of various sized pieces ready cut, they are good for protecting your work from chuck jaws etc too.
I don't have a 5/8 reamer but do have a boring head. Wondered though if I could use a 5/8 mill to make the hole larger? Could do a test to see how the eccentric would fit a milled hole.
Very true Barry - though I do use it quite often to cut down mild steel screws. A bit heavy on the blades but it doesn't damage the end of the screw thread. Cheers Andrew
Job well done. I have been struggling with the castings of my Stuart S50 at every starge due to exessive offsets and misaligned parts all the way. At times there are no extra material allowed for machining to correct the castings. The worst one was the cylinder which was so bad I almost sent it back but it was XMas and I couldn't be bothered with the wait. It seems that QC has gone AWOl from Stuart castings once again.
Thanks. It's a real shame about your S50 castings. Mine were fine and I found the S50 easier to machine than the 10v. The brass pressings supplied with the 10v were pretty poor, but I'm not sure if that's to be expected with pressings. I might consider making an engine from bar stock next time. Might be a big challenge but cost is far less and the quality is bound to be decent. Good luck with the S50. Cheers Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thanks Andrew. I had better luck with my 10V a few years back . If you remember I also set this project up as a challenge to be machined with my Sherline lathe and miiling machine and , to be fair they have coped very well within their size limitation. I used to build Elmer's engines which are entirely made from bar stock and I should have plans of a couple of Liney engines somewhere on one of my computers. The most difficulty I had was with those damn ' flame eaters ' whose plans I bought from a Dutch guy. You will find building from bar stock much easier as mistakes can be corrected and you really use whatever fittings that you have at hand. Looking forward to the completion of the 10V.
My S50 cylinder the core was on center one end and off center the other. In the end had to make the bore a little oversized but piston was made to fit.
Another great video Andrew, it's nice tagging along for the ride. Thanks for taking the effort and time to make/edit all the footage. I always enjoy your videos!
Thanks Mark. Glad you like the vids. I hope they help others and it also helps remind me what I did. I'm sure some of my methods might be frowned upon by some more experienced model engineers, but I seem to get there in the end.
Cheers
Andrew
Impressive work! You've come along way in a very short period of time...
dear Andrew watched the video saw what you did with the glasses I also wear bifocals ordered a pair arrived next day there fine when first put on felt a bit strange but as the day went on no problems thanks for that tip worked for me
Hi Dave. I'm really glad the glasses worked out OK for you. Yesterday I was doing a lot of DIY stuff and had to go the the builders merchant. I didn't realise I was wearing them driving until I got half way there. Thankfully I didn't walk into the shop with them on!
Many thanks for the feedback.
All the best.
Andrew
I'm looking at my vintage 10V, very finely made and seeing the same angle of the beam to the centerline of the big end. I don't have the drawings, but it does appear the small end is offset a small amount to the large end, looks to be between 1 and 2mm. I can't disassemble this to measure, but my engine was made in the 60's so they have been cast like that for a long time.
scratches head*
Interesting! I've just had a look at the drawings and the little end does appear slightly offset from the big end. Something I didn't spot at the time. Strangely the drawing doesn't indicate the amount of offset but the indicated centre position of the big end definitely doesn't appear as being spot on. The mind boggles! Anyway, mine turned out OK in the end.
Cheers
Andrew
Hi Andrew. Love the use of 123 blocks to inspect the pressing. Been thinking about a simple jig to hold the strap by the shaft which would become the reference plane for all machining. Have had difficulties with the con rod, which a jig could resolve. Got a lump of 30mm granite kitchen top for £20 and although its pink, in conjunction with a height gauge makes life a little easier. Regards
Thanks Len. I guess the method for machining for the strap and conrod is similar, and a simple jig sounds interesting. If it works out OK please don't hesitste to post a comment so others can see alternative methods. Great value granite! You just need to paint your machines pink to match :-) A surface plate and height gauge made life a lot easier for me.
Good luck with the build.
Cheers
Andrew
I really appreciate your discussing your thought process as you struggle with things such as what appears to be bad castings and other challenges. Could you post the brand of safety glasses that you discussed and possibly a link to where they can be found. I have to wear bi-focals to see well and would like to have a pair of safety glasses that fit so well that I forget that I am wearing them.
Thanks again and keep up the spectacular work.
Thanks Robert.
Re the safety glasses, I've included some info and a link in the video description. I hope you give the glasses a try and that they work for you. I am definitely well impressed and they are reletavely cheap. Obviously everone is different, but definitely worth a punt. Let me know if you try them and if they are a success.
PS I don't have any association with the supplier.
Cheers
Andrew
they are called nocry and I bought mine of ebay arrived next day
Have you spoken with Stuart Models about the two substandard brass castings? They were always good about replacing cast iron castings that were no good.
Hi Mike. In hindsight I maybe should have got back to Stuart. In the end it worked out reasonably well and I try to show it 'warts n all'.
All the best.
Andrew
Looking good Andrew, I can almost hear it chuffing away in the far distance :-)
Thanks Peter - me too!
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal One thing you may find useful is next time you have a can of the dark stuff in the fridge snip up various sized bits of the can, they come in useful as thin packing pieces/shims for use supporting work pieces that may flex a little while machining such as when you drilled the top hole in the eccentric arm. I have a jar of various sized pieces ready cut, they are good for protecting your work from chuck jaws etc too.
Thanks for the tip Peter.
I don't have a 5/8 reamer but do have a boring head. Wondered though if I could use a 5/8 mill to make the hole larger? Could do a test to see how the eccentric would fit a milled hole.
Best to buy a reamer
I don’t think jewelers are cutting mild steel very often.
Very true Barry - though I do use it quite often to cut down mild steel screws. A bit heavy on the blades but it doesn't damage the end of the screw thread.
Cheers
Andrew
Job well done. I have been struggling with the castings of my Stuart S50 at every starge due to exessive offsets and misaligned parts all the way. At times there are no extra material allowed for machining to correct the castings. The worst one was the cylinder which was so bad I almost sent it back but it was XMas and I couldn't be bothered with the wait. It seems that QC has gone AWOl from Stuart castings once again.
Thanks. It's a real shame about your S50 castings. Mine were fine and I found the S50 easier to machine than the 10v. The brass pressings supplied with the 10v were pretty poor, but I'm not sure if that's to be expected with pressings. I might consider making an engine from bar stock next time. Might be a big challenge but cost is far less and the quality is bound to be decent.
Good luck with the S50.
Cheers
Andrew
@@learningturningmetal Thanks Andrew. I had better luck with my 10V a few years back . If you remember I also set this project up as a challenge to be machined with my Sherline lathe and miiling machine and , to be fair they have coped very well within their size limitation. I used to build Elmer's engines which are entirely made from bar stock and I should have plans of a couple of Liney engines somewhere on one of my computers. The most difficulty I had was with those damn ' flame eaters ' whose plans I bought from a Dutch guy. You will find building from bar stock much easier as mistakes can be corrected and you really use whatever fittings that you have at hand. Looking forward to the completion of the 10V.
My S50 cylinder the core was on center one end and off center the other. In the end had to make the bore a little oversized but piston was made to fit.